8.0L V10 Engine: Diagnosis Dodge Pickup R2500

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the third revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. See «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-174645-S21415351832005040700000) for the correct engine compression pressures.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating)
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss

Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.

Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn OFF the engine.

Remove the spark plugs.

Remove the oil filler cap.

Remove the air cleaner.

Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.

Perform the test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained as specified. (Scheme 20)

Scheme 20

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

1. Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are
2. Loss of engine power
3. Engine misfiring
4. Poor fuel economy
5. Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are: Engine overheating Loss of coolant Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust Coolant foaming

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

Scheme 21

Scheme 22

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove the heat shields. (Scheme 21)
4. Remove the intake manifold-to-generator bracket support rod. Remove the generator.
5. Remove closed crankcase ventilation system.
6. Disconnect the evaporation control system.
7. Remove the air cleaner.
8. Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Disconnect the fuel line.
9. Disconnect accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
10. Remove coil pack and bracket. (Scheme 22)
11. Disconnect the coil wires.
12. Disconnect heat indicator sending unit wire.
13. Disconnect heater hoses and bypass hose.
14. Remove upper intake manifold and throttle body as an assembly. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000).
15. Remove cylinder head covers and gaskets. See «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S16181463262005040700000).
16. Remove the EGR tube. Discard the gasket, for right side only.
17. Remove lower intake manifold. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000). Discard the flange side gaskets and the front and rear cross-over gaskets.
18. Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold.
19. Remove exhaust manifolds and gaskets. See «EXHAUST MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S28939417762005040700000).
20. Remove rocker arm assemblies and push rods. «ROCKER ARM/ADJUSTER ASSY»(ref-174645-S34877954842005040700000). Identify to ensure installation in original locations.
21. Remove the head bolts from each cylinder head and remove cylinder heads. Discard the cylinder head gasket.
22. Remove spark plugs.

INSPECTION

Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage. The out-of-flatness specifications are 0.0007 mm/mm (0.0004 inch/inch), 0.127 mm/152 mm (0.005 inch/6 inches) any direction or 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) overall across head. If exceeded, either replace head or lightly machine the head surface.

The cylinder head surface finish should be 1.78-4.57 microns (15-80 microinches).

Inspect push rods. Replace worn or bent rods.

Inspect rocker arms. Replace if worn or scored.

Scheme 23

1. Position the new cylinder head gaskets onto the cylinder block.
2. Position the cylinder heads onto head gaskets and cylinder block.
3. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in two steps. (Scheme 23): Step 1-Tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence, to 58 N.m (43 ft. lbs.). Step 2-Tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence, to 143 N.m (105 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: When tightening the rocker arm bolts, make sure the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC. Contact between the valves and piston could occur.
4. Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in their original position. «ROCKER ARM/ADJUSTER ASSY»(ref-174645-S34877954842005040700000).
5. Install lower intake manifold. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000).
6. Install the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000).
7. Install the exhaust manifolds and new gaskets. See «EXHAUST MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S28939417762005040700000).
8. Install exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten the bolt to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
9. Using a new gasket, position the EGR tube to the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold. Tighten the EGR tube nut to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (174 in. lbs.) torque.
10. Install the heat shields and the washers. Make sure that heat shields tabs hook over the exhaust gasket. Tighten the nuts to 15 N.m (132 in. lbs.) torque.
11. Adjust and install the spark plugs.
12. Install coil packs and bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 21 N.m (190 in. lbs.) torque. Connect the coil wires.
13. Connect heat indicator sending unit wire.
14. Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
15. Connect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
16. Install the fuel line.
17. Install the generator and drive belt.
18. Install the intake manifold-to-generator bracket support rod. Tighten the bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
19. The cylinder head cover gasket can be used again. Install the gasket onto the head rail. For the left side the number tab is at the front of engine with the number up. For the right side the number tab is at the rear of engine with the number up. CAUTION: The cylinder head cover fasteners have a special plating. DO NOT use alternative fasteners.
20. Install cylinder head cover. See «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S16181463262005040700000).
21. Install closed crankcase ventilation system.
22. Connect the evaporation control system.
23. Install the air cleaner.
24. Fill cooling system.
25. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
26. Check for leaks (fuel, oil, antifreeze, etc.).

Inspect cover for distortion and straighten, if necessary.

Check the gasket for use in head cover installation. If damaged, use a new gasket.

VALVE SPRING INSPECTION

Whenever valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should be tested. As an example the compression length of the spring to be tested is 1-5/16 inch. Turn table of Universal Valve Spring Tester Tool until surface is in line with the 1-5/16 inch mark on the threaded stud. Be sure the zero mark is to the front. (Scheme 24) Place spring over stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by 2. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Discard the springs that do not meet specifications.

Scheme 24

Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), replace the valve.

Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows

Scheme 25

Scheme 26

1. Install Valve Guide Sleeve Tool C-3973 over valve stem and install valve. (Scheme 25) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator.
2. Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder head and set it at right angles to valve stem being measured. (Scheme 26)
3. Move valve to and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed 0.432 mm (0.017 in.). Ream the guides for valves with oversize stems if dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scuffed or scored.

Scheme 27

1. Install new seal onto valve stem.
2. Position valve spring onto valve stem.
3. Position Valve Spring Compressor with Adapter Studs onto cylinder head
4. Compress valve spring and install retainer valve locks.
5. Remove air hose and adapter from spark plug hole.
6. Remove Valve Spring Compressor and Adapter Studs.
7. Install rocker arms. «ROCKER ARM/ADJUSTER ASSY»(ref-174645-S34877954842005040700000).
8. The cylinder head cover gasket can be used again. Install the gasket onto the head rail. For the left side the number tab is at the front of engine with the number up. For the right side the number tab is at the rear of engine with the number up. CAUTION: The cylinder head cover fasteners have a special plating. DO NOT use alternative fasteners.
9. Install cylinder head cover. See «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S16181463262005040700000). (Scheme 27)
10. Install closed crankcase ventilation system.
11. Connect the evaporation control system.
12. Install air cleaner.
13. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
14. Road test vehicle and check for leaks.

Examine block for cracks or fractures.

The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-round and taper with Cylinder Bore Indicator Tool, Special tool 6879 or equivalent. The cylinder block should be bored and honed with new pistons and rings fitted if

1. The cylinder bores show more than 0.127 mm (0.005 inch) out-of-round.
2. The cylinder bores show a taper of more than 0.254 mm (0.010 inch).
3. The cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored. Boring and honing operation should be closely coordinated with the fitting of pistons and rings so specified clearances may be maintained.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-HYDRAULIC TAPPETS

Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.

Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.

TAPPET NOISE DIAGNOSIS

1. To determine source of tappet noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation. NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side trust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it's probably not the tappets.

LEAK-DOWN TEST

After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash operation. (Scheme 28)

Scheme 28

Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tappet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-Down Tester.

1. Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
2. Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
3. Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten the hex nut on the ram.
4. Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
5. Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air. When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal position.
6. Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and tighten the hex nut.
7. Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push rod.
8. Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2 seconds.
9. Observe the leak-down time interval from the instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125 mark. A normally functioning tappet will require 20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with leak-down time interval not within this specification.

Scheme 29

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Remove cylinder head cover. See «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S16181463262005040700000).
4. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods. «ROCKER ARM/ADJUSTER ASSY»(ref-174645-S34877954842005040700000). Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
5. Remove upper and lower intake manifold. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000).
6. Cut the cylinder head gasket for accessibility if the end tappets are to be removed.
7. Remove yoke retainer spider and tappet aligning yokes. (Scheme 29)
8. Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion. If all tappets are to be removed, identify tappets to ensure installation in original location.
9. If the tappet or bore in cylinder block is scored, scuffed, or shows signs of sticking, ream the bore to next oversize. Replace with oversize tappet.
10. Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear.

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring. See CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS procedure.

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore. See PISTON & CONNECTING ROD .

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

Scheme 30

Scheme 31

1. Check the crankshaft connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring.
2. Check the cylinder block bore for out-of-round, taper, scoring and scuffing.
3. Be sure that compression ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with oil ring rail gap.
4. Before installing the ring compressor, make sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the rail gaps located properly. (Scheme 30) NOTE: Be sure position of rings does not change during the following step.
5. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385 over the piston and tighten with the special wrench (part of Tool C-385).
6. Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod bolts, a long protector should be installed on the numbered side of the connecting rod.
7. Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on the center of the cylinder bore in the bottom dead center (BDC) position. Be sure connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore. Be sure the piston and rod assemblies are installed in the proper orientation. (Scheme 31)
8. The notch, groove or arrow on top of piston must be pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankshaft journal fillet.
9. While tapping the piston down in cylinder bore with the handle of a hammer, guide the connecting rod over the crankshaft journal.
10. Install rod caps. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and tighten nuts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
11. Install the oil pump pick-up tube and oil pan. See «OIL PAN»(ref-174645-S32839009792005040700000).
12. Install the cylinder head. See «CYLINDER HEAD»(ref-174645-S11019270062005040700000). Install cylinder head cover. See «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S16181463262005040700000).
13. Install intake manifold. See «INTAKE MANIFOLD»(ref-174645-S34232090772005040700000).
14. Install the engine into the vehicle. See «INSTALLATION»(ref-174645-S26929310762005040700000).

Scheme 32

Scheme 33

Scheme 34

Scheme 35

1. Measurement of end gaps: Measure piston ring gap 2 inches from bottom of cylinder bore. An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down to ensure positioning rings squarely in the cylinder bore before measuring. Insert feeler stock in the gap. Gap for compression rings should be between 0.254-0.508 mm (0.010-0.020 inch). The oil ring gap should be 0.381 - 1.397 mm (0.015-0.055 inch). Rings with insufficient end gap may be properly filed to the correct dimension. Ends should be stoned smooth after filing with Arkansas White Stone. Rings with excess gaps should not be used.
2. Install rings and confirm ring side clearance: Install oil rings being careful not to nick or scratch the piston. Install the oil control rings according to instructions in the package. It is not necessary to use a tool to install the upper and lower rails. Insert oil rail spacer first, then side rails. Install the second compression rings using Installation Tool C-4184. The compression rings must be installed with the identification mark face up (toward top of piston) and chamfer facing down. An identification mark on the ring is a drill point, a stamped letter O, an oval depression or the word TOP. (Scheme 32)and (Scheme 33). Using a ring installer, install the top compression ring with the chamfer facing up. (Scheme 33) An identification mark on the ring is a drill point, a stamped letter O, an oval depression or the word TOP facing up. (Scheme 34) Measure side clearance between piston ring and ring land. Clearance should be 0.074-0.097 mm (0.0029-0.0038 inch) for the compression rings. The steel rail oil ring should be free in groove, but should not exceed 0.246 mm (0.0097 inch) side clearance. Pistons with insufficient or excessive side clearance should be replaced.
3. Arrange ring gaps 180° apart as shown. (Scheme 35)

Scheme 36

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the following: Radiator fan. Accessory drive belt. Radiator.
3. Remove crankshaft pulley/damper bolt and washer from end of crankshaft.
4. Using Special Tool, 1026 3 Jaw Puller and Special Tool 8513 Insert, remove pulley/damper from the crankshaft. (Scheme 36)
5. Inspect crankshaft oil seal. If damaged or worn, replace the front oil seal. See «CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT»(ref-174645-S15090797692005040700000).

Scheme 37

1. Position the crankshaft pulley/damper onto the crankshaft.
2. Use Special Tool, C-3688 Crankshaft Pulley/Damper Installer to press the pulley/damper onto the crankshaft. Install crankshaft bolt and washer and tighten to 312 N.m (230 ft. lbs.). (Scheme 37)
3. Install the following: Radiator fan. Accessory drive belt. Radiator.
4. Connect the negative cable to the battery.

Scheme 38

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Position fan to assure clearance for radiator top tank and hose. CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake manifold.
3. Install engine support/lifting fixture.
4. Raise vehicle on hoist.
5. Lift the engine SLIGHTLY and remove the through-bolt and nut. (Scheme 38)
6. Remove engine support bracket/cushion bolts. (Scheme 38) Remove the support bracket/cushion and heat shields.

Scheme 39

1. With engine raised SLIGHTLY, position the engine support bracket/cushion and heat shields to the block. Install new bolts and tighten to 81 N.m (60 ft. lbs.) torque.
2. Install the through-bolt and 2 piece rubber engine rubber restrictors onto the engine support bracket/cushion.
3. Lower engine with support/lifting fixture while guiding the engine bracket/cushion and through-bolt into support cushion brackets. (Scheme 39)
4. Install through-bolt nuts and tighten the nuts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove lifting fixture.

Scheme 40

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Position a transmission jack in place.
3. Remove support cushion stud nuts. (Scheme 40)
4. Raise rear of transmission and engine SLIGHTLY.
5. Remove the bolts holding the support cushion to the transmission support bracket. Remove the support cushion.
6. If necessary, remove the bolts holding the transmission support bracket to the transmission.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-ENGINE OIL LEAKS

Begin with a through visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. DO NOT clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat previous step.
5. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method using the following steps.
6. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
7. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
8. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: DO NOT subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
9. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair as necessary.
10. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, inspect rear seal area for leak.
11. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed to next step.
12. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-ENGINE OIL PRESSURE

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit.
2. Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. See «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-174645-S21415351832005040700000) .

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.

Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.

Scheme 41

Scheme 42

1. Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16 x 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver. (Scheme 41)
2. Install the dowels in the cylinder block at the four corners.
3. Apply small amount of Mopar® Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent at the split lines. The split lines are between the cylinder block, the timing chain cover and the rear crankshaft seal assembly. see scheme 92 After the sealant is applied you have 3 minutes to install the gasket and oil pan.
4. Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block.
5. Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket. The engine may have to be slightly raised on 2WD vehicles.
6. Install the oil pan bolts. (Scheme 42) Tighten the bolts to specification. See «TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-174645-S34513942492005040700000).
7. Remove the dowels. Install the remaining 5/16 inch oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to specification.
8. Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
9. Install the engine to transmission strut.
10. Lower vehicle.
11. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
12. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.
13. Start engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 43

Scheme 44

1. Remove the timing chain cover. See «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S17335984332005040700000).
2. Remove the relief valve plug, gasket, spring and valve. (Scheme 43) Discard the gasket.
3. Remove mounting screws and oil pump cover. (Scheme 44)
4. Remove oil pump inner and outer rotors. (Scheme 44)
5. Inspect oil pump for wear. See «OIL PUMP»(ref-174645-S12204336602005040700000).

Mating surface of the oil pump cover should be smooth. Replace pump cover if scratched or grooved.

Lay a straightedge across the pump cover surface. (Scheme 45) If a 0.076 mm (0.003 inch) feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, cover should be replaced.

Measure thickness and diameter of rotors. If either rotor thickness measures 14.956 mm (0.5876 inch) or less, or if the diameter is 82.45 mm (3.246 inches) or less, replace rotor set. (Scheme 46)and (Scheme 47).

Scheme 45

Scheme 46

Scheme 47

Slide outer rotor into timing chain cover pump body. Press rotor to the side with your fingers and measure clearance between rotor and pump body. (Scheme 48) If clearance is 0.19 mm (0.007 inch) or more, and outer rotor is within specifications, replace timing chain cover.

Scheme 48

Install inner rotor into timing chain cover pump body. (Scheme 49) Inner rotor should be positioned with chamfer up or toward engine when cover is installed. This allows easy installation over crankshaft. If clearance between inner and outer rotors is 0.150 mm (0.006 inch) or more, replace both rotors.

Scheme 49

Place a straightedge across the face of the timing chain cover pump body, between bolt holes. (Scheme 50) If a feeler gauge of 0.077 mm (0.003 inch) or more can be inserted between rotors and the straightedge, and the rotors are within specifications, replace timing chain cover.

Scheme 50

Inspect oil pressure relief valve plunger for scoring and free operation in its bore. Small marks may be removed with 400-grit wet or dry sandpaper.

The relief valve spring has a free length of approximately 49.5 mm (1.95 inches). The spring should test between 100 and 109 N (22.5 and 24.5 pounds) when compressed to 34 mm (1-11/32 inches). Replace spring that fails to meet these specifications.

If oil pressure was low and pump is within specifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other reasons for oil pressure loss.

Scheme 51

1. Lubricate both oil pump rotors using petroleum jelly or Lubriplate and install in the timing chain cover. Use new parts as required. (Scheme 51)
2. Position the oil pump cover onto the timing chain cover. Tighten cover screws to 14 N.m (125 in. lbs.) torque.
3. Make sure that inner ring moves freely after cover is installed.
4. Install the timing chain cover. See «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(ref-174645-S17335984332005040700000).
5. Squirt oil into relief valve hole until oil runs out.
6. Install the relief valve and spring.
7. Using a new pressure relief valve gasket, install the relief valve plug. Tighten the plug to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.).
8. Install oil filter that has been filled with oil.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPMs occur, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Scheme 52

Scheme 53

Scheme 54

Scheme 55

Scheme 56

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the accessory drive belt.
4. Remove the generator brace and generator. (Scheme 52)
5. Remove the A/C compressor brace. (Scheme 52) Remove the compressor and set aside.
6. Remove the air cleaner cover and filter. Remove the air cleaner housing. (Scheme 53) Discard the gasket.
7. Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Disconnect the fuel lines.
8. Disconnect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kickdown cables.
9. Remove the coil assemblies with the ignition wires.
10. Disconnect the vacuum lines.
11. Disconnect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
12. Remove the closed crankcase ventilation and evaporation control systems.
13. Remove the throttle body bolts and lift the throttle body off the upper intake manifold. (Scheme 54) Discard the gasket.
14. Remove upper intake manifold bolts.
15. Lift the upper intake manifold out of the engine compartment. (Scheme 54) Discard the gasket.
16. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts and remove the manifold. (Scheme 55)
17. Discard the lower intake manifold gaskets. (Scheme 56)

Inspect manifold for cracks.

Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straightedge.

Scheme 57

1. Install the intake manifold side gaskets. Be sure that the locator dowels are positioned in the head. (Scheme 57)
2. Insert Mopar® GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, into the four corner joints an excessive amount of sealant is not required to ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of the flange gasket. The sealant should be approximately 5 mm (0.2 in.) in diameter. (Scheme 56)
3. Position the cross-over gaskets and press firmly onto the block. (Scheme 56) BE SURE THE BLOCK IS OIL FREE.
4. The lower intake manifold MUST be installed within 3 minutes of sealant application. Carefully lower intake manifold into position on the cylinder block and heads. After intake manifold is in place, inspect to make sure seals and gaskets are in place. Finger start all the lower intake bolts.
5. Tighten the lower intake manifold bolts in sequence to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.). (Scheme 55) Recheck all bolts are tightened to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
6. Using a new gasket, position the upper intake manifold onto the lower intake manifold.
7. Finger start all bolts, alternate one side to the other.
8. Tighten upper intake manifold bolts in sequence to 22 N.m (16 ft. lbs.). (Scheme 54)
9. Using a new gasket, install the throttle body onto the upper intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.).
10. Install closed crankcase ventilation and evaporation control systems.
11. Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
12. Connect the vacuum lines.
13. Install the coil assemblies and the ignition wires.
14. Connect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-down cables.
15. Install the fuel lines.
16. Using a new gasket, install the air cleaner housing. Tighten the nuts to 11 N.m (96 in. lbs.). Install the air cleaner filter and cover.
17. Install the A/C compressor. Position the compressor brace and install the bolts. Tighten the brace bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
18. Install the generator. Position the generator brace and install the bolts. Tighten the brace bolts to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
19. Install the accessory drive belt.
20. Fill cooling system.
21. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
22. Start engine check for leaks.

Inspect manifold for cracks.

Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).