3.7L V6 Engine: Other Dodge Pickup R2500

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
4. Disable the fuel system (Refer to «FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE»(ref-157772-S14853159042003082600000) ).
5. Remove the ASD relay (Refer to «AUTO SHUTDOWN RELAY»(ref-152874-S27450893072003022800000) ).
6. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
7. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
8. Refer to «ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-189679-S12461868892005091100000) for the correct engine compression pressures.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression, While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS table.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II

Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV

Mopar® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER

Mopar® Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT

Mopar® Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces

1. Metal scraper
2. Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block and head
3. High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a wire brush (Scheme 225)

Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces

1. Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
2. Plastic or wood scraper (Scheme 225)
3. Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow) (Scheme 225) CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care

Scheme 225

Filter Element Only

Housing removal is not necessary for element (filter) replacement.

1. Loosen clamp (Scheme 226) and disconnect air duct at air cleaner cover.
2. Pry over 4 spring clips (Scheme 226) from housing cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
3. Release housing cover from locating tabs on housing (Scheme 226) and remove cover.
4. Remove air cleaner element (filter) from housing.
5. Clean inside of housing before replacing element.

Scheme 226

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING

Note. Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.

Note. When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

Scheme 227

1. Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0689 - 0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.).
4. Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 40.74 mm (1.6039 in.).
5. The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 - 45 degrees angle see scheme 52

STANDARD PROCEDURE-CYLINDER BORE HONING

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.

Scheme 228

1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits. CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors. CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a Crosshatch pattern. The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings see scheme 64
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-hatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

CLEANING

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces. Use compressed air to clean out

1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (240 in. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 229

1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer see scheme 65
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block (Refer to CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL ).

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block (Refer to CRANKSHAFT - INSPECTION ).

Check crankshaft end play.

Scheme 230

Scheme 231

1. Service main bearings are available in four grades. The chart below identifies the four service grades available ( see scheme 72 & see scheme 73 ).

Scheme 232

Scheme 233

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655) ).
3. Remove A/C compressor mounting fasteners and set aside.
4. Drain cooling system (Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000) ).
5. Remove upper radiator hose.
6. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud.
7. Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
8. Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer to «RADIATOR FAN»(ref-167132-S19937825632004100600000) ).
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller see scheme 74
11. Using Special Tool 8511, remove crankshaft front seal see scheme 75

CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring. Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting (Scheme 238) Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.

Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs (Scheme 239)

Scheme 234

Scheme 235

Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted connecting rods.

Scheme 236

Scheme 237

Scheme 238

1. Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal.
2. Lubricate the upper bearing insert and position in connecting rod. Center bearing insert in connecting rod (Scheme 240)
3. Use piston ring compressor and Guide Pins Special Tool 8507 (Scheme 241) to install the rod and piston assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The "F"s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine.
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap. Center bearing insert in connecting rod (Scheme 240) The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plastigage across full width of the lower insert at the center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage see scheme 86 Refer to «ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-189679-S20459937722005091100000) for the proper clearance. Plastigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which services bearing set to use the bearing sizes are as follows: CONNECTING ROD BEARING SIZE REFERENCE Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH JOURNAL SIZE.025 US.025 mm (.001 in.) 57.883-57.867 mm (2.2788-2.2783 in.) Std. STANDARD 57.908-57.892 mm (2.2798-2.2792 in.).250 US.250 mm (.010 in.) 57.658-57.646 mm (2.2700-2.2695 in.) CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.

Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal flange see scheme 87 Refer to ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS for the proper clearance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.

Scheme 239

Scheme 240

Scheme 241

1. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at a point 38.0 mm (1.5 inches) below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A and then take an additional bore reading 90 degrees to that at point B (Scheme 242)
3. The coated pistons will be serviced with the piston pin and connecting rod pre-assembled.
4. The coating material is applied to the piston after the final piston machining process. Measuring the outside diameter of a coated piston will not provide accurate results (Scheme 243) Therefore measuring the inside diameter of the cylinder bore with a dial Bore Gauge is MANDATORY. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) increments is required.
5. Piston installation into the cylinder bore requires slightly more pressure than that required for non-coated pistons. The bonded coating on the piston will give the appearance of a line-to-line fit with the cylinder bore.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves. CAUTION: DO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly

PISTON RING FITTING

Before reinstalling used rings or installing new rings, the ring clearances must be checked.

Scheme 242

1. Wipe the cylinder bore clean.
2. Insert the ring in the cylinder bore. NOTE: The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioned at least 12mm (0.50 inch.) from bottom of cylinder bore.
3. Using a piston, to ensure that the ring is squared in the cylinder bore, slide the ring downward into the cylinder.
4. Using a feeler gauge check the ring end gap (Scheme 246) Replace any rings not within specification.

PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE

Note. Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.

Scheme 243

Scheme 244

Scheme 245

Scheme 246

1. Measure the ring side clearance as shown (Scheme 247) make sure the feeler gauge fits snugly between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
2. Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding. PISTON RING SPECIFICATION Ring Position Groove Clearance Maximum Clearance Upper Ring.051-.094mm (0.0020-.0037 in.) 0.11mm (0.004 in.) Intermediate Ring 0.04-0.08mm (0.0016-0.0031 in.) 0.10mm (0.004 in.) Oil Control Ring (Steel Rails).019-.229mm (.0007-.0090 in.).25mm (0.010 in.) Ring Position Ring Gap Wear Limit Upper Ring 0.20-0.36mm (0.0079-0.0142 in.) 0.43mm (0.0017 in.) Intermediate Ring 0.37-0.63mm (0.0146-0.0249 in.) 0.74mm (0.029 in.) Oil Control Ring (Steel Rail) 0.025-0.76mm (0.0099-0.03 in.) 1.55mm (0.061 in.)
3. The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston. NOTE: Piston rings are installed in the following order: Oil ring expander. Upper oil ring side rail. Lower oil ring side rail. No. 2 Intermediate piston ring. No. 1 Upper piston ring.
4. Install the oil ring expander.
5. Install upper side rail (Scheme 248) by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.
6. Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a piston ring installer see scheme 95
7. Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring installer see scheme 95
8. Position piston ring end gaps as shown in see scheme 96 It is important that expander ring gap is at least 45° from the side rail gaps, but not on the piston pin center or on the thrust direction.

Scheme 247

Scheme 248

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655) ).
3. Drain cooling system (Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000) ).
4. Remove radiator upper hose.
5. Remove upper fan shroud.
6. Using Special Tools 6958 Spanner with Adapter Pins 8346, loosen fan and viscous assembly from water pump see scheme 97
7. Remove fan and viscous assembly.
8. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller see scheme 98

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud
2. Remove the viscous fan (Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) ).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 249

Scheme 250

Scheme 251

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud
2. Remove the viscous fan (Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) ).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle (Scheme 253)
11. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the (6) through bolts
14. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left see scheme 104 and right see scheme 105 engine mounts.
15. Remove the engine mounts.

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan (Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) ).
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

Scheme 252

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots see scheme 106
5. Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan (Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) ).
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 253

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount see scheme 107
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember.
6. Remove the mount.

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time , proceed with the air leak detection test method.

REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-case as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general) CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi)
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer to «ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING»(ref-189679-S07153533582005091100000) ), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to «CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S38750947752005091100000) ).

1. Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
2. Clean the oil pan gasket surface. DO NOT use a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean sealing surface.
3. Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean solvent.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE

API SERVICE GRADE CERTIFIED

Use an engine oil that is API Service Grade Certified. MOPAR® provides engine oils that conform to this service grade.

SAE VISCOSITY

An SAE viscosity grade is used to specify the viscosity of engine oil. Use only engine oils with multiple viscosities such as 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the 4.7L engines. These are specified with a dual SAE viscosity grade which indicates the cold-to-hot temperature viscosity range. Select an engine oil that is best suited to your particular temperature range and variation see scheme 125

Scheme 254

ENERGY CONSERVING OIL

An Energy Conserving type oil is recommended for gasoline engines. The designation of ENERGY CONSERVING is located on the label of an engine oil container.

OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)

The engine oil level indicator is located at the right rear of the engine on the 4.7L engines. see scheme 127

Scheme 255

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil described in this section.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL

Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shield (Scheme 259)
6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.

Scheme 256

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Remove the exhaust heat shields (Scheme 260)
6. Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

Note. This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.

1. Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S)»(ref-189679-S04961179482005091100000) for procedure.
2. To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain tensioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15mm (.5906 inches).
3. If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(ref-189679-S24956491102005091100000) for procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

Scheme 257

Scheme 258

1. Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-189679-S34513768592005091100000) for the procedure.
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover (Scheme 262) Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
3. Note the location of the V6 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. see scheme 136
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(ref-189679-S24956491102005091100000) procedure.
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to Single camshaft timing, in this procedure.
6. If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.

Scheme 259

1. Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both camshaft sprocket V6 marks in the 12 o'clock position. see scheme 136
2. Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity. The timing dot on the counter balance shaft drive gear should be in the 6 o'clock position see scheme 137

TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT

Note. to adjust the timing on one camshaft, preform the following procedure.

Scheme 260

Scheme 261

1. Using Chain Tensioner Wedge see scheme 138, Special Tool 8379, stabilize the secondary chain drive. For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position. see scheme 139
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft.
4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
5. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt resulting in bolt failure
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench, Tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. Lbs.).
7. Remove Special Tool 8379.
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then verify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are in fact aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S)»(ref-189679-S34513768592005091100000) in this section.

Scheme 262

1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains. Refer to «TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(ref-189679-S24956491102005091100000). NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to remove the gear from the balance shaft. Remove the retaining bolt from the counterbalance shaft thrust plate see scheme 140
2. Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft remover/installer tool, remove the counterbalance shaft from the engine see scheme 141