3.7L V6 Engine: Diagnosis Dodge Pickup R2500

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - GASKET

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are

1. Loss of engine power
2. Engine misfiring
3. Poor fuel economy

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are

1. Engine overheating
2. Loss of coolant
3. Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
4. Coolant foaming

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer to ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING ). An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

Scheme 167

Scheme 168

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant (Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000) ).
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold (Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S17262764292005091100000) ).
7. Remove the master cylinder and booster assembly (Refer to «POWER BRAKE BOOSTER»(ref-162777-S14668905622004061000000) ).
8. Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S17596840832005091100000) ).
9. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly (Refer to «RADIATOR FAN»(ref-167132-S19937825632004100600000) ).
10. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655) ).
11. Remove the power steering pump and set aside.
12. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Scheme 167)
13. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position (Scheme 168) Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
14. Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to «VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S30564636212005091100000) ).
15. Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to «CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S31783398672005091100000) ).
16. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Holding Fixture see scheme 42 NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
17. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
18. Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S18035227532005091100000).
19. Remove the cylinder head access plug see scheme 43
20. Remove the left side secondary chain guide (Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL»(ref-189679-S18035227532005091100000) ).
21. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
22. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
23. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket. CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks

TESTING VALVE SPRINGS

Note. Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it is recommended that the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.

Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 until surface is in line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications see scheme 54

Scheme 169

Scheme 170

Scheme 171

1. coat the valve stem with clean engine oil and insert it into the cylinder head.
2. Install the valve stem seal, make sure the seal is fully seated and that the garter spring at the top of the seal is intact.
3. Install the spring and the spring retainer see scheme 55
4. Using the valve spring compressor, compress the spring and install the two valve spring retainer halves.
5. Release the valve spring compressor and make sure the two spring retainer halves and the spring retainer are fully seated.
6. lubricate the camshaft journal with clean engine oil then Position the camshaft (with the sprocket dowel on the left camshaft at 11 o'clock and the right camshaft at 12 o'clock), then position the camshaft bearing caps.
7. Install the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts 9-13 N.m (100 in. lbs.) in 1/2 turn increments in the sequence shown see scheme 56
8. Position the hydraulic lash adjusters and rocker arms (Refer to «ADJUSTER ASSY - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S12765824412005091100000) ).

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.

INSPECTION

Note. Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.

If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.

1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and sealant residue.
3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the engine must be replaced.
4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the thrust washers.
5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket as necessary.

Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.

Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.

Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.

Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

Scheme 172

Scheme 173

1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston and rings. Tighten ring compressor. Ensure position of rings do not change during this operation.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
4. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into connecting rod bolt threads see scheme 90
5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised "F" indicating installation position. This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connecting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine see scheme 91
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer handle. While at the same time, guide connecting rod into position on rod journal. CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components: Cylinder head(s). (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S22895207222005091100000) ). Timing chain and cover. (Refer to «CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S33473021302005091100000) ). Cylinder head covers (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S37619184992005091100000) ). Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to «OIL PAN - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S16766850332005091100000) ).
11. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
12. Connect negative cable to battery.

Air Leak Detection Test Method

1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to «REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS»(ref-189679-S14040555422005091100000) .
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general) CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi)
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

Scheme 174

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit see scheme 111 and install gauge assembly C-3292.
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure: Curb Idle-25 kPa (4 psi) minimum 3000 rpm-170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.

1. Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.
2. Inspect the oil pan mounting flange for bends or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.

Scheme 175

1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the bedplate and oil pan.
2. Inspect integrated oil pan gasket, and replace as necessary.
3. Position the integrated oil pan gasket/windage tray assembly.
4. Install the oil pickup tube
5. Install the mounting bolt and nuts. Tighten nuts to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
6. Position the oil pan and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown (Scheme 178)
7. Lower the engine into mounts using special tool # 8534.
8. Install both the left and right side engine mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
9. Remove special tool # 8534.
10. Install structural dust cover, if equipped.
11. Install the front crossmember (Refer to «FRONT CROSSMEMBER»(ref-189686-S01720353762005091100000) ).
12. Fill engine oil.
13. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
14. Start engine and check for leaks.

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface (Scheme 180) If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Scheme 181) If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor see scheme 118 If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
6. Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body see scheme 119 If the measurement is 0.235mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
7. Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner and outer rotors see scheme 120 If the clearance between the rotors is.150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
8. Place a straight edge across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced see scheme 121

Note. The 3.7 Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an assembly.

Scheme 176

Scheme 177

Scheme 178

Scheme 179

Scheme 180

Scheme 181

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LEAKS

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
3. If engine RPM'S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Inspect the following components

1. Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket replacement.
2. Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for excessive wear.
3. Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
4. Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm (0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The tensioner should be replaced.
5. Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition exist the tensioner arm and chain should be replaced.
6. Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as required.

Scheme 182

Scheme 183

Scheme 184

Scheme 185

Scheme 186

Scheme 187

1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin into hole on front of tensioner see scheme 150 Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Install Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block
4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
5. Install left side chain tensioner arm, and Torx® bolt. Tighten Torx® bolt to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.).
7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8429 to hold chains in place for installation.
8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket.
9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil. NOTE: The idler sprocket must be timed to the counterbalance shaft drive gear before the idler sprocket is fully seated.
10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly see scheme 151 After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or equivalent. This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. Align the timing mark on the idler sprocket gear to the timing mark on the counterbalance shaft drive gear, then seat idler sprocket fully see scheme 152 Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.). NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
11. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
12. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure
13. Remove Special Tool 8429, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V6" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed
15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
16. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads
17. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left see scheme 153 and right see scheme 154 camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
18. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V6" marks are at 12 o'clock counterbalancer shaft drive gear dot is aligned to the idler sprocket gear dot
19. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil.
20. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear end play be checked. The end play must be within 0.10-0.25 mm (0.004-0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced see scheme 155
21. Install timing chain cover and crankshaft damper. Refer to «CHAIN COVER(S)»(ref-189679-S31783398672005091100000) and «VIBRATION DAMPER»(ref-189679-S30564636212005091100000).
22. Install cylinder head covers (Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION»(ref-189679-S37619184992005091100000) ). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
23. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N.m (60 ft. lbs.).
24. Install the oil fill housing.
25. Install access plug in left cylinder head.
26. Install power steering pump (Refer to «STEERING PUMP»(ref-189696) ).
27. Fill cooling system (Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000) ).
28. Connect negative cable to battery.