5.9L V8 Engine: Diagnosis Dodge Pickup R2500

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

INSPECTION

Inspect all surfaces with a straightedge if there is any reason to suspect leakage. If out-of-flatness exceeds 0.00075mm/mm (0.000lin/in.) times the span length in any direction, either replace head or lightly machine the head surface.

FOR EXAMPLE: -A 305 mm (12 in.) span is 0.102 mm (0.004 in.) out-of-flat. The allowable out-of-flat is 305 x 0.00075 (12 x 0.00075) equals 0.23 mm (0.009 in.). This amount of out-of-flat is acceptable.

The cylinder head surface finish should be 1.78-3.00 microns (70-125 microinches).

Inspect push rods. Replace worn or bent rods.

Scheme 511

1. Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder heads.
2. Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces using a suitable solvent.
3. Position new cylinder head gaskets onto the cylinder block.
4. Position cylinder heads onto head gaskets and cylinder block.
5. Starting at top center, tighten all cylinder head bolts, in sequence (Scheme 511) CAUTION: When tightening the rocker arm bolts, make sure the piston in that cylinder is NOT at TDC. Contact between the valves and piston could occur
6. Install push rods and rocker arm assemblies in their original position. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S42701317292005091100000), and throttle body assembly.
8. Install exhaust manifolds. Refer to «EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S14809181202005091100000).
9. If required, adjust spark plugs to specifications. Install the plugs and tighten to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Install coil wire.
11. Connect heat indicator sending unit wire.
12. Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
13. Install distributor cap and wires.
14. Connect the accelerator linkage and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-down cables.
15. Install the fuel supply line. Refer to «FUEL LINE DISCONNECT FITTINGS»(ref-158737-S30612821652003101600000).
16. Install the generator and drive belt. Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655). Tighten generator mounting bolt to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the adjusting strap bolt to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
17. Install the intake manifold-to-generator bracket support rod. Tighten the bolts.
18. Place the cylinder head cover gaskets in position and install cylinder head covers. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S21505435482005091100000).
19. Install closed crankcase ventilation system.
20. Connect the evaporation control system.
21. Reinstall the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «MASTER CYLINDER»(ref-162777-S32457471392004061000000) and «POWER BRAKE BOOSTER»(ref-162777-S14668905622004061000000).
22. Install the air cleaner.
23. Fill cooling system. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000).
24. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
25. Start engine check for leaks.

Inspect cover for distortion and straighten, if necessary.

Check the gasket for use in head cover installation. If damaged, use a new gasket.

Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), replace the valve.

Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows

Scheme 512

Scheme 513

1. Install Valve Guide Sleeve Tool C-3973 over valve stem and install valve (Scheme 512) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator.
2. Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder head and set it at right angles to valve stem being measured (Scheme 513)
3. Move valve to and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed 0.432 mm (0.017 in.). Ream the guides for valves with oversize stems if dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scuffed or scored.

Examine block for cracks or fractures.

The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-round and taper. Refer to CYLINDER BORE HONING .

Inspect the oil line plug, the oil line plug is located in the vertical passage at the rear of the block between the oil-to-filter and oil-from-filter passages (Scheme 514) Improper installation or missing plug could cause erratic, low, or no oil pressure.

The oil plug must come out the bottom. Use flat dowel, down the oil pressure sending unit hole from the top, to remove oil plug.

Scheme 514

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit from back of block.
2. Insert a 3.175 mm (1/8 in.) finish wire, or equivalent, into passage.
3. Plug should be 190.0 to 195.2 mm (7-1/2 to 7-11/16 in.) from machined surface of block (Scheme 514) If plug is too high, use a suitable flat dowel to position properly.
4. If plug is too low, remove oil pan and No. 4 main bearing cap. Use suitable flat dowel to position properly. Coat outside diameter of plug with Mopar(R) Stud and Bearing Mount Adhesive. Plug should be 54.0 to 57.7 mm (2-1/8 to 2-5/16 in.) from bottom of the block.

Tappet Noise Diagnosis

1. To determine source of tappet noise, operate engine at idle with cylinder head covers removed.
2. Feel each valve spring or rocker arm to detect noisy tappet. The noisy tappet will cause the affected spring and/or rocker arm to vibrate or feel rough in operation. NOTE: Worn valve guides or cocked springs are sometimes mistaken for noisy tappets. If such is the case, noise may be dampened by applying side thrust on the valve spring. If noise is not appreciably reduced, it can be assumed the noise is in the tappet. Inspect the rocker arm push rod sockets and push rod ends for wear.
3. Valve tappet noise ranges from light noise to a heavy click. A light noise is usually caused by excessive leak-down around the unit plunger, or by the plunger partially sticking in the tappet body cylinder. The tappet should be replaced. A heavy click is caused by a tappet check valve not seating, or by foreign particles wedged between the plunger and the tappet body. This will cause the plunger to stick in the down position. This heavy click will be accompanied by excessive clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm as valve closes. In either case, tappet assembly should be removed for inspection and cleaning.
4. The valve train generates a noise very much like a light tappet noise during normal operation. Care must be taken to ensure that tappets are making the noise. If more than one tappet seems to be noisy, it's probably not the tappets.

Leak-Down Test

After cleaning and inspection, test each tappet for specified leak-down rate tolerance to ensure zero-lash operation (Scheme 518)

Swing the weighted arm of the hydraulic valve tappet tester away from the ram of the Universal Leak-Down Tester.

Scheme 515

1. Place a 7.925-7.950 mm (0.312-0.313 inch) diameter ball bearing on the plunger cap of the tappet.
2. Lift the ram and position the tappet (with the ball bearing) inside the tester cup.
3. Lower the ram, then adjust the nose of the ram until it contacts the ball bearing. DO NOT tighten the hex nut on the ram.
4. Fill the tester cup with hydraulic valve tappet test oil until the tappet is completely submerged.
5. Swing the weighted arm onto the push rod and pump the tappet plunger up and down to remove air. When the air bubbles cease, swing the weighted arm away and allow the plunger to rise to the normal position.
6. Adjust the nose of the ram to align the pointer with the SET mark on the scale of the tester and tighten the hex nut.
7. Slowly swing the weighted arm onto the push rod.
8. Rotate the cup by turning the handle at the base of the tester clockwise one revolution every 2 seconds.
9. Observe the leak-down time interval from the instant the pointer aligns with the START mark on the scale until the pointer aligns with the 0.125 mark. A normally functioning tappet will require 20-110 seconds to leak-down. Discard tappets with leak-down time interval not within this specification.

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Refer to CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE .

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore. Refer to PISTON FITTING .

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

Scheme 516

1. Be sure that compression ring gaps are staggered so that neither is in line with oil ring rail gap.
2. Before installing the ring compressor, be sure the oil ring expander ends are butted and the rail gaps located properly (Scheme 521)
3. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Slide Piston Ring Compressor Tool C-385 over the piston and tighten with the special wrench (part of Tool C-385). Be sure position of rings does not change during this operation.
4. Install connecting rod bolt protectors on rod bolts. The long protector should be installed on the numbered side of the connecting rod.
5. Rotate crankshaft so that the connecting rod journal is on the center of the cylinder bore. Be sure connecting rod and cylinder bore number are the same. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and guide rod over the crankshaft journal.
6. Tap the piston down in cylinder bore, using a hammer handle. At the same time, guide connecting rod into position on crankshaft journal.
7. The notch, or groove, on top of piston must be pointing toward front of engine. The larger chamfer of the connecting rod bore must be installed toward crankshaft journal fillet.
8. Install rod caps. Be sure connecting rod, connecting rod cap, and cylinder bore number are the same. Install nuts on cleaned and oiled rod bolts and tighten nuts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
9. Install the oil pan. Refer to «OIL PAN - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S19365031812005091100000).
10. Install the cylinder head. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S09516615642005091100000).
11. Install the engine into the vehicle. Refer to «ENGINE - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S08363635682005091100000).

Scheme 517

Scheme 518

Scheme 519

Scheme 520

1. Measurement of end gaps: Measure piston ring gap 2 in. from bottom of cylinder bore. An inverted piston can be used to push the rings down to ensure positioning rings squarely in the cylinder bore before measuring. Insert feeler gauge in the gap. The top compression ring gap should be between 0.254-0.508 mm (0.010-0.020 in.). The second compression ring gap should be between 0.508-0.762 mm (0.020-0.030 in.). The oil ring gap should be 0.254-1.270 mm (0.010-0.050 in.). Rings with insufficient end gap may be properly filed to the correct dimension. Rings with excess gaps should not be used.
2. Install rings, and confirm ring side clearance: Install oil rings being careful not to nick or scratch the piston. Install the oil control rings according to instructions in the package. It is not necessary to use a tool to install the upper and lower rails. Insert oil rail spacer first, then side rails. Install the second compression rings using Installation Tool C-4184. The compression rings must be installed with the identification mark face up (toward top of piston) and chamfer facing down. An identification mark on the ring is a drill point, a stamped letter "O", an oval depression, or the word "TOP" see scheme 79 see scheme 80 Using a ring installer, install the top compression ring with the chamfer facing up see scheme 81 see scheme 80 An identification mark on the ring is a drill point, a stamped letter "O", an oval depression or the word "TOP" facing up. Measure side clearance between piston ring and ring land. Clearance should be 0.074-0.097 mm (0.0029-0.0038 in.) for the compression rings. The steel rail oil ring should be free in groove, but should not exceed 0.246 mm (0.0097 in.) side clearance. Pistons with insufficient, or excessive, side clearance should be replaced.
3. Orient the rings: Arrange top compression ring 90° counterclockwise from the oil ring rail gap see scheme 82 Arrange second compression ring 90° clockwise from the oil ring rail gap see scheme 82

Scheme 521

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the cooling system fan. Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000).
3. Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655).
4. Remove vibration damper bolt and washer from end of crankshaft.
5. Position Special Tool 8513 Insert into the crankshaft nose.
6. Install Special Tool 1026 Three Jaw Puller onto the vibration damper see scheme 83
7. Pull vibration damper off of the crankshaft.

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

Inspect oil drain plug and plug hole for stripped or damaged threads. Repair as necessary.

Inspect oil pan mounting flange for bends or distortion. Straighten flange, if necessary.

Scheme 522

Scheme 523

1. Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.
2. Trim or remove excess sealant film in the rear main cap oil pan gasket groove. DO NOT remove the sealant inside the rear main cap slots.
3. If present, trim excess sealant from inside the engine.
4. Fabricate 4 alignment dowels from 5/16 x 1 1/2 inch bolts. Cut the head off the bolts and cut a slot into the top of the dowel. This will allow easier installation and removal with a screwdriver (Scheme 525)
5. Install the dowels in the cylinder block (Scheme 526)
6. Apply small amount of Mopar(R) Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent in the corner of the cap and the cylinder block.
7. Slide the one-piece gasket over the dowels and onto the block.
8. Position the oil pan over the dowels and onto the gasket.
9. Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten the bolts to 24 N.m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
10. Remove the dowels. Install the remaining oil pan bolts. Tighten these bolts to 24 N.m (215 in. lbs.) torque.
11. Lower the engine into the support cushion brackets and tighten the thru bolt nut to the proper torque.
12. Install the drain plug. Tighten drain plug to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
13. Install the engine to transmission strut.
14. Install exhaust pipe.
15. Lower vehicle.
16. Install dipstick.
17. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
18. Fill crankcase with oil to proper level.

Mating surface of the oil pump cover should be smooth. Replace pump assembly if cover is scratched or grooved.

Lay a straightedge across the pump cover surface (Scheme 529) If a 0.038 mm (0.0015 inch) feeler gauge can be inserted between cover and straightedge, pump assembly should be replaced.

Scheme 524

Measure thickness and diameter of OUTER rotor. If outer rotor thickness measures 20.9 mm (0.825 inch) or less or if the diameter is 62.7 mm (2.469 inches) or less, replace outer rotor (Scheme 530)

Scheme 525

If inner rotor measures 20.9 mm (0.825 inch) or less, replace inner rotor and shaft assembly see scheme 101

Scheme 526

Slide outer rotor into pump body. Press rotor to the side with your fingers and measure clearance between rotor and pump body (Scheme 531) If clearance is 0.356 mm (0.014 inch) or more, replace oil pump assembly.

Install inner rotor and shaft into pump body. If clearance between inner and outer rotors is 0.203 mm (0.008 inch) or more, replace shaft and both rotors (Scheme 532)

Place a straightedge across the face of the pump, between bolt holes. If a feeler gauge of 0.102 mm (0.004 inch) or more can be inserted between rotors and the straightedge, replace pump assembly (Scheme 533)

Inspect oil pressure relief valve plunger for scoring and free operation in its bore. Small marks may be removed with 400-grit wet or dry sandpaper.

Scheme 527

Scheme 528

Scheme 529

The relief valve spring has a free length of approximately 49.5 mm (1.95 inches). The spring should test between 19.5 and 20.5 pounds when compressed to 34 mm (1-11/32 inches). Replace spring that fails to meet these specifications (Scheme 534)

If oil pressure was low and pump is within specifications, inspect for worn engine bearings or other reasons for oil pressure loss.

Scheme 530

Inspect manifold for cracks.

Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straightedge.

Scheme 531

Scheme 532

Scheme 533

Scheme 534

1. If removed, position new plenum gasket and install plenum pan see scheme 108
2. Tighten plenum pan mounting bolts as follows: Step 1. Tighten bolts to 5.4 N.m (48 in. lbs.) Step 2. Tighten bolts to 9.5 N.m (84 in. lbs.) Step 3. Check all bolts are at 9.5 N.m (84 in. lbs.)
3. Install the flange gaskets. Ensure that the vertical port alignment tab is resting on the deck face of the block. Also the horizontal alignment tabs must be in position with the mating cylinder head gasket tabs see scheme 109 The words MANIFOLD SIDE should be visible on the center of each flange gasket.
4. Apply Mopar(R) GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, to the four corner joints. An excessive amount of sealant is not required to ensure a leak proof seal. However, an excessive amount of sealant may reduce the effectiveness of the flange gasket. The sealant should be approximately 5 mm (0.2 in) in diameter and 15 mm (0.6 in.) long.
5. Install the front and rear end seals see scheme 110 Make sure the molded dowel pins on the end seals fully enter the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.
6. Carefully lower intake manifold into position on the cylinder block and cylinder heads. After intake manifold is in place, inspect to make sure seals are in place.
7. Using a new gasket, install the throttle body onto the intake manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23 N.m (200 in. lbs.) torque.
8. Install the intake manifold bolts and tighten as follows see scheme 111: Step 1. Tighten bolts 1 through 4 to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.) Tighten in alternating steps 1.4 N.m (12 in. lbs.) at a time Step 2. Tighten bolts 5 through 12 to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.) Step 3. Check all bolts are torqued to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.) Step 4. Tighten all bolts in sequence to 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.) Step 5. Check all bolts are torqued to 16 N.m (12 ft. lbs.)
9. Install closed crankcase ventilation and evaporation control systems.
10. Connect the coil wires.
11. Connect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
12. Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
13. Install distributor cap and wires.
14. Hook up the return spring.
15. Connect the accelerator linkage. Refer to «FUEL RAIL & INJECTORS»(ref-158737-S06750985542003101600000), and if so equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-down cables.
16. Install the fuel lines. Refer to «FUEL LINE DISCONNECT FITTINGS»(ref-158737-S30612821652003101600000).
17. Install the accessory drive bracket and A/C compressor. Refer to «A/C COMPRESSOR»(ref-189725-S01920583182005091100000).
18. Install the generator and drive belt. Refer to «ACCESSORY DRIVE»(ref-189655). Tighten generator mounting bolt to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
19. Install the air cleaner.
20. Fill cooling system. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-189654-S13811322982005091200000).
21. Connect the negative cable to the battery.

Inspect manifold for cracks.

Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).