5.9L V8 Engine: Other Dodge Pickup R2500

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the third revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. Refer to «ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-189682-S34704001352005091100000) for the correct engine compression pressures.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating)
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss

Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.

Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn OFF the engine.

Remove the spark plugs.

Remove the oil filler cap.

Remove the air cleaner.

Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.

Perform the test procedure on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder. Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar(R) Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar(R) ATF-RTV, and Mopar(R) Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR(R) ENGINE RTV GEN II

Mopar(R) Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR(R) ATF RTV

Mopar(R) ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR(R) GASKET MAKER

Mopar(R) Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR(R) GASKET SEALANT

Mopar(R) Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar(R) Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

HYDROSTATIC LOCK

When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what caused the problem), follow the steps below.

1. Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. Refer to «FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE»(ref-157772-S14853159042003082600000) .
2. Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the battery.
3. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
4. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
5. With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
6. Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel, oil, etc.).
7. Be sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders.
8. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from occurring again.
9. Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent damage on restart.
10. Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
11. Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter.
12. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
13. Install a new oil filter.
14. Fill engine crankcase with the specified amount and grade of oil. .
15. Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
16. Start the engine and check for any leaks.

CYLINDER BORE HONING

Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.

Scheme 583

1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits. CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors. CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a Crosshatch pattern. The hone marks should INTERSECT at 40° to 60° for proper seating of rings (Scheme 583)
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 40° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-hatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.

Filter Element Only

Housing removal is not necessary for element (filter) replacement.

Scheme 584

1. Loosen clamp (Scheme 584) and disconnect air duct at air cleaner cover.
2. Pry over 4 spring clips (Scheme 584) from housing cover (spring clips retain cover to housing).
3. Release housing cover from locating tabs on housing (Scheme 584) and remove cover.
4. Remove air cleaner element (filter) from housing.
5. Clean inside of housing before replacing element.

Scheme 585

1. Loosen clamp (Scheme 584) and disconnect air duct at air cleaner cover.
2. Lift entire housing assembly from 4 locating pins (Scheme 585)

CYLINDER HEAD

The cast iron cylinder heads (Scheme 586) are mounted to the cylinder block using ten bolts. The spark plugs are located in the peak of the wedge between the valves.

Scheme 586

CYLINDER HEAD COVER GASKET

The cylinder head cover gasket (Scheme 587) is a steel-backed silicone gasket, designed for long life usage.

Scheme 587

The cylinder head closes the combustion chamber allowing the pistons to compress the air fuel mixture to the correct ratio for ignition. The valves located in the cylinder head open and close to either allow clean air into the combustion chamber or to allow the exhaust gases out, depending on the stroke of the engine.

The steel-backed silicone gasket is designed to seal the cylinder head cover for long periods of time through extensive heat and cold, without failure. The gasket is designed to be reusable.

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET FAILURE

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

1. Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are: Loss of engine power Engine misfiring Poor fuel economy
2. Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are: Engine overheating Loss of coolant Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust Coolant foaming

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CLEANING

Clean all surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder heads.

Clean cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces using a suitable solvent.

Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface.

Clean head rail, if necessary.

VALVE CLEANING

Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned, warped, or cracked valves.

Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.

VALVE GUIDES

Measure valve stems for wear. If wear exceeds 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), replace the valve.

Measure valve stem guide clearance as follows

Scheme 588

Scheme 589

1. Install Valve Guide Sleeve Tool C-3973 over valve stem and install valve (Scheme 588) The special sleeve places the valve at the correct height for checking with a dial indicator.
2. Attach dial indicator Tool C-3339 to cylinder head and set it at right angles to valve stem being measured (Scheme 589)
3. Move valve to and from the indicator. The total dial indicator reading should not exceed 0.432 mm (0.017 in.). Ream the guides for valves with oversize stems if dial indicator reading is excessive or if the stems are scuffed or scored.

Service valves with oversize stems are available. Refer to REAMER SIZES table.

REAMER SIZES

1. Slowly turn reamer by hand and clean guide thoroughly before installing new valve. Ream the valve guides from standard to 0.381 mm (0.015 in.). Use a two step procedure so the valve guides are reamed true in relation to the valve seat: Step 1-Ream to 0.0763 mm (0.003 inch). Step 2-Ream to 0.381 mm (0.015 inch).

REFACING VALVES AND VALVE SEATS

The intake and exhaust valves have a 43-1/4° to 43-3/4° face angle and a 44-1/4° to 44-3/4° seat angle (Scheme 590)

Scheme 590

Scheme 591

VALVES

Inspect the remaining margin after the valves are refaced (Scheme 592) Valves with less than 1.190 mm (0.047 in.) margin should be discarded.

Scheme 592

VALVE SEATS

Scheme 593

1. When refacing valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.
2. Measure the concentricity of valve seat using a dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in.) total indicator reading.
3. Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue, to determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do this, coat valve seat LIGHTLY with Prussian blue then set valve in place. Rotate the valve with light pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of valve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the top edge of valve face, lower valve seat with a 15° stone. If the blue is transferred to bottom edge of valve face raise valve seat with a 60° stone.
4. When seat is properly positioned the width of intake seats should be 1.016-1.524 mm (0.040-0.060 in.). The width of the exhaust seats should be 1.524-2.032 mm (0.060-0.080 in.).

VALVE SPRINGS

Whenever valves have been removed for inspection, reconditioning or replacement, valve springs should be tested. As an example the compression length of the spring to be tested is 1-5/16 in.. Turn table of Universal Valve Spring Tester Tool until surface is in line with the 1-5/16 in. mark on the threaded stud. Be sure the zero mark is to the front (Scheme 594) Place spring over stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by 2. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to specifications to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Discard the springs that do not meet specifications.

Scheme 594

Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned, warped, or cracked valves.

Remove carbon and varnish deposits from inside of valve guides with a reliable guide cleaner.

Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leakage.

CONNECTING ROD BEARING FITTING

Fit all rods on a bank until completed. DO NOT alternate from one bank to another, because connecting rods and pistons are not interchangeable from one bank to another.

The bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to ensure correct assembly.

Each bearing cap has a small V-groove across the parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell, be certain that the V-groove in the shell is in line with the V-groove in the cap. This provides lubrication of the cylinder wall in the opposite bank.

The bearing shells must be installed so that the tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and caps.

Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.025 mm (0.001 in.). Bearings are available in 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), 0.051 mm (0.002 in.), 0.076 mm (0.003 in.), 0.254 mm (0.010 in.) and 0.305 mm (0.012 in.) undersize. Install the bearings in pairs. DO NOT use a new bearing half with an old bearing half. DO NOT file the rods or bearing caps.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING FITTING

Bearing caps are not interchangeable and should be marked at removal to ensure correct assembly. Upper and lower bearing halves are NOT interchangeable. Lower main bearing halves of No.2 and 4 are interchangeable.

Upper and lower No.3 bearing halves are flanged to carry the crankshaft thrust loads. They are NOT interchangeable with any other bearing halves in the engine see scheme 65 Bearing shells are available in standard and the following undersizes: Never install an undersize bearing that will reduce clearance below specifications.

Scheme 595

Main Bearing Undersize Availability List

1. 0.25 mm (0.001 inch)
2. 0.051 mm (0.002 inch)
3. 0.076 mm (0.003 inch)
4. 0.254 mm (0.010 inch)
5. 0.305 mm (0.012 inch)

UPPER SEAL-CRANKSHAFT REMOVED

1. Remove the crankshaft. Refer to «CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S42335640062005091100000) . Discard the old upper seal.

UPPER SEAL - CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED

1. Remove the oil pan. Refer to «OIL PAN - REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S03515524672005091100000) .
2. Remove the oil pump. Refer to «OIL PUMP - REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S14300052802005091100000) .
3. Remove the rear main bearing cap. Remove and discard the old lower oil seal.
4. Carefully remove and discard the old upper oil seal.

LOWER SEAL

1. Remove the oil pan. Refer to «OIL PAN - REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S03515524672005091100000) .
2. Remove the oil pump. Refer to «OIL PUMP - REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S14300052802005091100000) .
3. Remove the rear main bearing cap and discard the old lower seal.

1. Clean the cylinder block mating surfaces before oil seal installation. Check for burrs at the oil hole on the cylinder block mating surface to rear cap.
2. Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil. To allow ease of installation of the seal, loosen at least the two main bearing caps forward of the rear bearing cap.
3. Rotate the new upper seal into the cylinder block, being careful not to shave or cut the outer surface of the seal. To ensure proper installation, use the installation tool provided with the kit. Install the new seal with the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
4. Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing toward the rear of the engine.
5. Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of Mopar(R) Gasket Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap see scheme 70 DO NOT over-apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application. Be sure the white paint faces toward the rear of the engine.
6. To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than two times for proper engagement.
7. Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten ALL cap bolts to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
8. Install oil pump. Refer to «OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S33015858352005091100000).
9. Apply Mopar(R) GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block joint to provide cap-to-block and oil pan sealing (Scheme 599) Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
10. Immediately install the oil pan. Refer to «OIL PAN - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S19365031812005091100000).

1. Clean the rear main cap mating surfaces including the oil pan gasket groove.
2. Carefully install a new upper seal. Refer to «UPPER SEAL - CRANKSHAFT INSTALLED»(ref-189682-S35822581922005091100000).
3. Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
4. Install a new lower seal in bearing cap with the white paint facing the rear of engine.
5. Apply 5 mm (0.20 in.) drop of Mopar(R) Gasket Maker, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap see scheme 70 DO NOT over-apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
6. To align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel, and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than two times for proper engagement.
7. Install the rear main bearing cap with cleaned and oiled cap bolts. Alternately tighten the cap bolts to 115 N.m (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
8. Install oil pump. Refer to «OIL PUMP - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S33015858352005091100000).
9. Apply Mopar(R) GEN II Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap-to-block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant so that a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
10. Immediately install the oil pan. Refer to «OIL PAN - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S19365031812005091100000).

Scheme 596

1. Remove distributor. Refer to «DISTRIBUTOR»(ref-158737-S24981924632003101600000).
2. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD REMOVAL»(ref-189682-S28571244112005091100000).
3. Insert Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Puller Tool C-3052 into old bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained (Scheme 600)
4. Hold puller screw and tighten puller nut until bushing is removed.

Scheme 597

Scheme 598

1. Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Distributor Drive Shaft Bushing Driver/Burnisher Tool C-3053. Insert the tool and bushing into the bore.
2. Drive bushing and tool into position, using a hammer see scheme 73
3. As the burnisher is pulled through the bushing, the bushing is expanded tight in the block and burnished to correct size see scheme 74 DO NOT ream this bushing. CAUTION: This procedure MUST be followed when installing a new bushing or seizure to shaft may occur
4. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «INTAKE MANIFOLD INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S42701317292005091100000).
5. Install the distributor. Refer to «DISTRIBUTOR»(ref-158737-S24981924632003101600000).

HYDRAULIC TAPPETS

Before disassembling any part of the engine to correct tappet noise, check the oil pressure. If vehicle has no oil pressure gauge, install a reliable gauge at the pressure sending-unit. The pressure should be between 207-552 kPa (30-80 psi) at 3,000 RPM.

Check the oil level after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Allow 5 minutes to stabilize oil level, check dipstick. The oil level in the pan should never be above the FULL mark or below the ADD OIL mark on dipstick. Either of these two conditions could be responsible for noisy tappets.

HIGH

If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the engine running, this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.

LOW

Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can be drawn will create the same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bled out.

Clean tappet with a suitable solvent. Rinse in hot water and blow dry with a clean shop rag or compressed air.

PISTON FITTING

Piston and cylinder wall must be clean and dry. Specified clearance between the piston and the cylinder wall is 0.013-0.038 mm (0.0005-0.0015 inch) at 21°C (70°F).

Piston diameter should be measured at the top of skirt, 90° to piston pin axis. Cylinder bores should be measured halfway down the cylinder bore and transverse to the engine crankshaft center line.

Pistons and cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature, 21°C (70°F).

Check the pistons for taper and elliptical shape before they are fitted into the cylinder bore ( see scheme 76 & see scheme 77 ).

Scheme 599

Scheme 600

Clean the piston and connecting rod assembly using a suitable solvent.

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud
2. Remove the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) .
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 601

Scheme 602

Scheme 603

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud
2. Remove the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle see scheme 85
11. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the (6) through bolts
14. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left see scheme 86 and right (Scheme 606) engine mounts.
15. Remove the engine mounts.

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar(R) Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000) .
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar(R) Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

Scheme 604

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots see scheme 88
5. Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH»(ref-189656-S33852084192005091200000).
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 605

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount see scheme 89
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember.
6. Remove the mount.

ENGINE OIL LEAKS

Begin with a through visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil-soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to be sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light source.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and repeat previous step.
5. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method as follows
6. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
7. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
8. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure
9. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
10. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to «CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL -REAR»(ref-189682-S35875394432005091100000) .
11. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose. Proceed to next step.
12. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

ENGINE OIL PRESSURE

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit.
2. Install Oil Pressure Line and Gauge Tool C-3292. Start engine and record pressure. Refer to «ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-189682-S32426383512005091100000) .

OIL LEVEL INDICATOR (DIPSTICK)

The engine oil level indicator is located at the right front of the engine, left of the generator see scheme 92

Scheme 606

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in the Maintenance Schedule. This information can be found in the owner's manual.

To Change Engine Oil

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist vehicle.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Change oil filter. Refer to «OIL FILTER»(ref-189682-S31715751132005091100000) .
8. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
9. Install oil fill cap.
10. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
11. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

Clean the block and pan gasket surfaces.

Trim or remove excess sealant film in the rear main cap oil pan gasket groove. DO NOT remove the sealant inside the rear main cap slots.

If present, trim excess sealant from inside the engine.

Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Clean oil screen and pipe thoroughly in clean solvent. Inspect condition of screen.

INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPMs occur, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Clean manifold in solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Clean cylinder block gasket surfaces using a suitable solvent.

The plenum pan rail must be clean and dry (free of all foreign material).

Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and manifold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

1. Place a scale next to the timing chain so that any movement of the chain may be measured.
2. Place a torque wrench and socket over camshaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply torque in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack; 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head installed or 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.) torque with cylinder head removed. With a torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block the crankshaft to prevent rotation.
3. Hold a scale with dimensional reading even with the edge of a chain link. With cylinder heads installed, apply 14 N.m (30 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. With the cylinder heads removed, apply 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.) torque in the reverse direction. Note the amount of chain movement see scheme 116
4. Install a new timing chain, if its movement exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 inch).

Scheme 607

1. Place both camshaft sprocket and crankshaft sprocket on the bench with timing marks on exact imaginary center line through both camshaft and crankshaft bores.
2. Place timing chain around both sprockets.
3. Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in camshaft sprocket.
4. Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight against the chain in position as described).
5. Slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment of timing marks see scheme 117
6. Install the camshaft bolt. Tighten the bolt to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Check camshaft end play. The end play should be 0.051-0.152 mm (0.002-0.006 inch) with a new thrust plate and up to 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) with a used thrust plate. If not within these limits install a new thrust plate.
8. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to «CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION»(ref-189682-S27364514462005091100000).