5.7L Engine - Service Information: Other RAM Pickup 2500

PERFORMANCE

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Note. The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Note. Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs and record the cylinder number of each spark plug for future reference.
3. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for abnormal firing indicators such as fouled, hot, oily, etc.
4. Disable the fuel system and perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-457834-S04226998202012030200000) . .
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. NOTE: The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test. NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the cylinder combustion pressure leakage test. Refer to «CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE»(ref-457797-S06160397322012030200000) .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

MECHANICAL

ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART

TOP 19 REASONS THAT MAY LEAD TO ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

1. Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
2. Distorted Cylinders This may be caused by unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts. This condition presents a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will be burned and cause high oil consumption.
3. Improper operation of "PCV" system The main purpose of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. The PCV system usually has a one way check valve and a make up air source. The system uses rubber hoses that route crankcase blow by gases to the intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls the blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake air and fuel mixture. The PCV system can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blow by gases in the crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected, the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets and seals due to crankcase pressurization.
4. Worn Piston Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered. Piston rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber.
5. Worn, Broken or Stuck Piston Rings When piston rings are broken, worn or stuck to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are not maintained, this will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. All of these conditions will result in burning and carbon build up of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings.
6. Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping. This condition will lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement.
7. Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned.
8. Bent or Misaligned Connecting Rods Bent or misaligned connecting rods will not allow the pistons to ride straight in the cylinders. This will prevent the pistons and rings from forming a proper seal with the cylinder walls and promote oil consumption. In addition, it is possible that a bearing in a bent connect rod will not have uniform clearance on the connecting rod wrist pin. Under these conditions, the bearing will wear rapidly and throw off an excessive amount of oil into the cylinder.
9. Fuel Dilution If raw fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile and will result in higher oil consumption. The following conditions will lead to higher oil consumption; Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector Gasoline contaminated with diesel fuel Restricted air intake Excessive idling
10. Contaminated Cooling Systems Corrosion, rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator will prevent a cooling system from extracting heat efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion thus leading to higher oil consumption.
11. Oil Viscosity The use of oil with a viscosity that is too light may result in high oil consumption. Refer to the vehicle owners™ manual for the proper oil viscosity to be used under specific driving conditions and/or ambient temperatures.
12. Dirty Engine Oil Failure to change the oil and filter at proper intervals may cause the oil to be so dirty that it will promote accumulation of sludge and varnish and restrict oil passages in the piston rings and pistons. This will increase oil consumption; dirty oil by nature is also consumed at a higher rate than clean oil.
13. Crankcase Overfull Due to an error in inserting the oil dip stick so that it does not come to a seat on its shoulder, a low reading may be obtained. Additional oil may be added to make the reading appear normal with the stick in this incorrect position which will actually make the oil level too high. If the oil level is so high that the lower ends of the connecting rods touch the oil in the oil pan excessive quantities of oil will be thrown on the cylinder walls and some of it will work its way up into the combustion chamber.
14. Excessively High Oil Pressure A faulty oil pressure relief valve may cause the oil pressure to be too high. The result will be that the engine will be flooded with an abnormally large amount of oil in a manner similar to that which occurs with worn bearings. This condition may also cause the oil filter to burst.
15. Aftermarket Performance Chips and Modification Increasing performance through the use of performance/power enhancement products to a stock or factory engine will increase the chance of excessive oil consumption.
16. Lugging Engine Lugging is running the engine at a lower RPM in a condition where a higher RPM (more power/torque) should be implemented. Especially susceptible on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This driving habit causes more stress loading on the piston and can lead to increases in engine oil consumption.
17. Turbocharged Engines There is a possibility for PCV "push-over" due to higher crankcase pressure (as compared to naturally aspirated engines) which is normal for turbocharged engines. This condition causes varying amounts of engine oil to enter the intake manifold, charge air cooler and associated plumbing to and from the charge air cooler, also a leaking turbocharger seal will draw oil into the combustion chamber where it will burn (blue smoke from tail pipe may be present) and form carbon deposits which contribute to further oil consumption as they interfere with proper engine function.
18. Restricted Air Intake Excessive restriction in the air intake system will increase engine vacuum and can increase oil consumption, an extremely dirty air filter would be one example of this situation.
19. Intake Manifold port seals Engines that have a "V" configuration and a "wet valley" could draw oil into the intake ports due to improper sealing between the intake manifold ports and cylinder head. Causes may include improper torque of intake manifold bolts, corrosion (aluminum intake manifold) and or warped sealing surface.

Scheme 448

Due to the high amounts of failures cased by dust, dirt, moisture and other foreign debris being introduced to the engine during service. Covers or caps are needed to reduce the possible damage that can be caused or created.

Scheme 449

Covers over openings will reduce any possibilities for foreign materials to enter the engine systems. Using miller tool (special tool #10368, Set, Universal Protective Cap), Select the appropriated cover needed to the procedure.

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

HYDROSTATIC LOCK

When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what caused the problem), follow the steps below.

1. Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-457834-S04226998202012030200000) .
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable(s) from the battery.
3. Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and intake manifold to make sure the system is dry and clear of foreign material.
4. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
5. With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
6. Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel, oil).
7. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders.
8. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from occurring again.
9. Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate the walls. This prevents damage on restart.
10. Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark plugs to 41 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
11. Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter.
12. Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
13. Install a new oil filter.
14. Fill the engine crankcase with the specified amount and grade of oil. Refer to «Capacities and Recommended Fluids , Specifications»(ref-457775-S18332386902012030200000) .
15. Connect the negative battery cable(s).
16. Start the engine and check for any leaks.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

Note. All sealants mentioned below are not used on every engine, they are listed as general reference guide. See service information for specific sealer usage.

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin of a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket. All sealing surfaces that use form-in-place gaskets and sealers must be free of grease or oil. Clean surfaces with Mopar® brake parts cleaner prior to sealer application. After the sealer is applied, assemble the parts within 10 minutes.

Numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials are used in the engine area. Mopar® Sealant RTV Silicone Rubber Adhesive, MOPAR® Silicone Rubber RTV, Mopar® ATF-RTV and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and cannot be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® SEALANT RTV SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® SILICONE RUBBER RTV is used to seal components exposed to engine oil, gear lubricant, and coolant. This material is a specially designed gray silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil, gear lubricant and coolant. Excellent adhesion even on oily surfaces, withstands temperatures to 330° C (626° F). Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF-RTV is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. It can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material also prevents corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or in a 4 oz. or 6 oz. can with applicator.

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install the Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If the gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CLEANING

Clean all of the sealing surfaces of cylinder block and cylinder heads Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner (or equivalent).

VALVE GUIDES

The valve guides are made of powdered metal and pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.

VALVES

Both the intake and the exhaust valves are made of steel. The intake valve is 50.93 mm (2.00 inches) in diameter and the exhaust valve is 39.53 mm (1.55 inches) in diameter. All valves use three-bead lock keepers to retain the springs and promote valve rotation.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING

VALVE FACE AND VALVE SEAT ANGLE CHART

Note. Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.

Note. When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

1. Using a suitable dial indicator, measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian Blue to the valve seat. Insert the valve into the cylinder head. Rotate valve while applying light pressure on the valve seat. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.18 - 1.62 mm (0.0464 - 0.0637 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.48 - 1.92 mm (0.058 - 0.075 in.).
4. Check the valve spring installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 46.0 mm (1.81 in.).
5. The valve seat must maintain a seat angle of 44 1/2 ° - 45°.
6. The valve face must maintain a face angle of 45° - 45 1/2 °.

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean

1. Gallery at the oil filter adaptor hole
2. Front and rear oil gallery holes
3. Multiple Displacement System (MDS) oil gallery holes in the valley
4. Oil feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings

Drilled and tapped holes should be free of debris upon assembly.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite R PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil gallery plugs and coolant drain plugs. Tighten the oil gallery 1/4 inch x 18 NPT plugs to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Tighten the coolant drain 1/4 inch x 18 NPT plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 3/8 inch x 18 NPT plugs to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).

Scheme 450

Scheme 451

1. Wipe the main bearing inserts (1, 2) clean.
2. Inspect the inserts for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining.
3. Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapes or irregular wear patterns.
4. Inspect the insert locking tabs for damage.
5. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing.
6. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
7. Inspect the main bearing bores for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
8. If the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage, replace the engine block.
9. Use Cylinder Indicator (special tool #C-119, Cylinder Indicator) (2) to correctly measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) Increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
10. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below the top of the bore (4). Start at the top of the bore, perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1).
11. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
12. Determine the taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
13. Rotate the measuring device 90° to point B (1) and repeat the three measurements. Verify that the maximum taper is within specifications.
14. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
15. If the cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) then the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds the maximum limits, replace the cylinder block.

Note. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

Scheme 452

The 5.7L Eagle engine is equipped with Variable Cam Timing (VCT). This system advances and/or retards the camshaft timing to improve engine performance, mid-range torque, idle quality, fuel economy, and reduce emissions. The VCT assembly is sometimes referred to as a camshaft phaser.

The VCT assembly consists of the camshaft sprocket and a timing phaser. The VCT phaser assembly bolts to the camshaft and is serviced as an assembly.

CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG

1. Clean the core hole in the cylinder block. NOTE: Do not apply adhesive to the new camshaft core hole plug. A new plug has adhesive pre-applied.
2. Install a new camshaft core hole plug (1) located at the rear of cylinder block, using a suitable flat faced tool. The plug must be fully seated on the cylinder block shoulder.
3. Install the flexplate. Refer to «FLEXPLATE , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S11348698112012030200000) .
4. Install the engine. Refer to «Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S06019417132012030200000) .

Scheme 453

Scheme 454

Scheme 455

Scheme 456

1. Lubricate the camshaft lobes and camshaft bearing journals and insert the camshaft (1). NOTE: Ensure that the plate is installed on the correct side. The fasteners are flat head fasteners so the top of the head of the fastener should not stick above the front face of the plate after they are torqued. The plate has chamfered fastener holes and the chamfered side should be facing forward to ensure the fasteners are flush or below the front surface.
2. Install the camshaft thrust plate (1).
3. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.). NOTE: The camshaft phaser must be installed before the camshaft end play can be measured.
4. Measure camshaft end play. Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-457797-S20464704322012030200000) .
5. If not within limits, disassemble, clean, and inspect for burrs or debris. Reassemble and measure end play again. If the end play is still out, then install a new thrust plate.
6. Install the timing chain (5) and sprockets (1, 3). Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S28990632222012030200000) .
7. Install the timing chain tensioner arm (4) and guide (2).
8. Remove the tensioner pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (1).
9. Install the oil pump (1) and tighten bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.). Refer to «PUMP, Engine Oil , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S30631811342012030200000) .
10. Inspect the oil pick up tube O-rings and replace as necessary.
11. Install the oil pick up tube (1) and tighten fasteners (2) to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
12. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Engine Timing , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S08343052232012030200000) .
13. Install the oil pan. Refer to «PAN, Oil , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S25274644792012030200000) . CAUTION: Engines equipped with MDS use both standard roller lifters (2) and deactivating roller lifters (1). The deactivating roller lifters must be used in cylinders 1,4,6,7. The deactivating lifters can be identified by the two holes in the side of the lifter body (3), for the latching pins. NOTE: Each tappet reused must be installed in the same position from which it was removed. When camshaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be replaced.
14. Install the rear MDS lifter assembly (2) and tighten bolt (1) to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.)
15. Install the front MDS lifter assembly (2) and tighten bolt (1) to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
16. Install both the left and right cylinder heads (4). Refer to «Cylinder Head , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S30133838482012030200000) .
17. Install pushrods.
18. Install rocker arms. Refer to «ROCKER ARM, Valve , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S15577686302012030200000) .
19. Install cylinder head covers. Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S24405400242012030200000) .
20. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, Intake , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S13751922512012030200000) .
21. Install the generator (2).
22. Install the power steering pump (3).
23. Install the accessory drive belt (1). Refer to «BELT, Serpentine , Installation»(ref-457792-S21966014282012030200000) .
24. Install the radiator. Refer to «RADIATOR, Engine Cooling , Installation»(ref-457792-S25692808462012030200000) .
25. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refer to «BODY, Air Cleaner , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S01216084882012030200000) .
26. Install the negative battery cable.
27. Fill the radiator with coolant. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
28. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to «FILTER, Engine Oil , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S40963345412012030200000) .
29. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 457

Scheme 458

Scheme 459

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the steering rack to frame mounting bolts (1) and lower the steering rack enough to gain clearance for the structural dust cover removal.
3. Remove the transmission mount to crossmember retaining nuts (1).
4. Using a suitable jack, lift the transmission enough to gain clearance for the structural dust cover removal.
5. Remove the structural dust cover retaining bolts (1, 3 & 4).
6. Remove the structural dust cover (2).

HIGH

If the oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the engine running, this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in the oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic tappets by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow the valves to seat noisily.

LOW

Low oil level may allow the oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the tappets, they lose length, which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on the intake side of the oil pump through which air can be drawn creates the same tappet action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When tappet noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one tappet will be noisy. When the oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run the engine for a sufficient amount of time to allow all of the air inside the tappets to be bleed out.

PISTON RING SIDE CLEARANCE

Note. Make sure the piston ring grooves are clean and free of nicks and burrs.

Scheme 460

1. Measure the ring side clearance as shown in illustration. Make sure the feeler gauge (1) fits snugly between the ring land and the ring. Replace any ring not within specification.
2. Rotate the ring around the piston, the ring must rotate in the groove with out binding.

PISTON RING SPECIFICATION CHART

Scheme 461

Note. The No. 1 and No. 2 piston rings have a different cross section. Ensure No. 2 ring is installed with manufacturers I.D. mark (Dot) facing up, towards top of the piston.

Note. Piston rings are installed in the following order: Oil ring expander. Lower oil ring side rail. Upper oil ring side rail. No. 2 Intermediate piston ring. No. 1 Upper piston ring.

Scheme 462

Scheme 463

1. Install the oil ring expander.
2. Install upper side rail by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the expander ring. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Repeat this step for the lower side rail.
3. Install No. 2 intermediate piston ring using a piston ring installer.
4. Install No. 1 upper piston ring using a piston ring installer. NOTE: Install the piston rings so the gaps positioned as indicated with the piston viewed from the top. NOTE: Staggering ring gap is important for oil control.
5. Install the oil expander so the ring gap is located in the (1) position.
6. Install the oil ring rails so the ring gap is located in the (2, 4) position.
7. Install the second compression ring so the ring gap is located in the (3) position.
8. Install the top compression so the ring gap is located in the (1) position.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent, clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.

4WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove the skid plate.
4. Remove the front crossmember.
5. Remove the engine oil filter.
6. Support the engine using engine support fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the (6) through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 464

1. Install mount on the engine. NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
2. Install upper and lower mount mounting bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
3. Lower the engine using engine support fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
4. Install mount thru bolts.
5. Tighten through bolts on both sides to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
6. Lower vehicle.
7. Connect negative battery cable.

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Tighten nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Tighten nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine using engine support fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1), until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the thru bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots.
5. Loose assemble the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Tighten the nuts for the through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Tighten the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the engine oil filter, if removed.
10. Install the front crossmember.
11. Install the skid plate.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 465

The 5.7L MDS lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.

CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE

1. Remove the oil pressure sending unit and install gauge assembly (special tool #C-3292A, Gauge, Pressure).
2. Run the engine until thermostat opens.
3. Oil Pressure: Curb Idle-25 kPa (4 psi) minimum 3000 RPM-170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of the oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time , proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE OIL SERVICE

The engine oil level indicator is located at the left hand of the engine on the 5.7L engines.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules. Refer to Maintenance Schedules , Description .

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

Note. Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

4X4

1. Follow all steps for 4X2 removal.
2. Unbolt and lower the steering rack, without disconnecting the lines. NOTE: The front axle must be lowered to remove the oil pan on 4X4 vehicles.
3. Remove the front driveshaft at the axle. Mark for reassembly.
4. Support the front axle.
5. Remove the right and left axle to mount bolts.
6. Lower axle.
7. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
8. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube. NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new integral windage tray and gasket assembly must be installed. The old gasket cannot be reused.
9. Discard the integral windage tray and gasket and replace.

Scheme 466

Scheme 467

1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the block and oil pan. NOTE: Mopar® Engine RTV must be applied to the four T-joints (1, 2). The bead of RTV should cover the bottom of the gasket. This area is approximately 4.5 mm x 25 mm in each of the four T-joint locations.
2. Apply Mopar® Engine RTV at the T- joints (1,2). NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new integral windage tray and gasket assembly must be installed. The old gasket cannot be reused.
3. Install a new integral windage tray and gasket.
4. Reinstall the oil pump pickup tube with new O-rings. Tighten tube to pump fasteners to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.). NOTE: The double ended oil pan studs must be installed in the same location that they were removed from.
5. Position the oil pan and install the mounting bolts and studs. Tighten the mounting bolts to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
6. Connect cooler lines to radiator, transmission and clips. NOTE: When connecting the transmission oil cooler lines, it is necessary to replace the line clip that is located on the oil pan stud. The retention force of the clip is severely degraded upon removal.
7. Install the structural cover (2). Refer to «COVER, Structural Dust , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S12113325222012030200000) .
8. Lower the engine into mounts using Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
9. Install both the left and right side engine mount through bolts. Tighten the nuts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
10. Reinstall the front axle, if removed.
11. Install the steering rack, if removed.
12. Install the rear transmission mount, if removed.
13. Remove Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
14. Install the front crossmember. Refer to «CROSSMEMBER, Lower Control Arm , Installation»(ref-457829-S30643828682012030200000) and «CROSSMEMBER, Transmission , Installation»(ref-457829-S11579147072012030200000) .
15. Install the fan shroud and fan.
16. Fill engine oil.
17. Connect the negative battery cable.
18. Start engine and check for leaks.

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.

Scheme 468

Scheme 469

Scheme 470

1. Remove the pump cover.
2. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor (2) and the body. If the measurement is 0.235mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer rotors (1). If the clearance between the rotors is 0.150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge (2) of 0.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced.
6. Reinstall the pump cover. Tighten fasteners to 15 N.m (132 in. lbs.).

Note. The 5.7 Oil pump is serviced as an assembly. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification, it must be replaced as an assembly.

Scheme 471

1. Position the oil pump on the crankshaft and install the oil pump retaining bolts finger tight.
2. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the oil pump retaining bolts to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the timing cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Engine Timing , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S08343052232012030200000) .
4. Install the oil pan. Refer to «PAN, Oil , Installation , 5.7L»(ref-457797-S25274644792012030200000) .

Scheme 472

Scheme 473

Scheme 474

1. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor electrical connector (3).
2. Remove the clean air hose (2).
3. Remove the air cleaner housing (4).
4. Remove the engine cover (1).
5. Disconnect the negative battery cable (1).
6. Install Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (1).
7. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: When servicing or replacing exhaust system components, disconnect the oxygen sensor connector(s). Allowing the exhaust to hang by the oxygen sensor wires will damage the harness and/or sensor.
8. Disconnect the oxygen sensor electrical connectors (2).
9. Saturate the front exhaust pipe/catalytic converter retaining bolts and nuts with Mopar® Rust Penetrant or equivalent and allow 5 minutes for penetration.
10. Remove the right and left exhaust pipe/catalytic converter assembly. Refer to «CONVERTER, Catalytic , Removal»(ref-457794-S07022787092012030200000) . Right side shown in illustration, left side similar.
11. Remove the right and left engine mount through bolts (3).
12. Lower the vehicle. CAUTION: Do not damage engine harness while raising the engine.
13. Using the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support), raise the engine enough to gain access to the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.
14. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
15. Right Side: Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the exhaust manifold retaining bolts.
16. Left Side: Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the exhaust manifold retaining bolts. Left side shown in illustration, right similar.
17. Remove the exhaust manifold (2) and gasket.
18. Inspect the exhaust manifold for any damage. Refer to «Inspection»(ref-457797-S35127503682012030200000) .
19. Clean the mating surfaces (1, 2).

Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and manifold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Note. There is NO approved repair procedure for the intake manifold. If severe damage is found during inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.

Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning solvent, then air dry.