4.7L Engine - Service Information: Other RAM Pickup 2500

PERFORMANCE

MECHANICAL

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Note. The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Note. Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs and record the cylinder number of each spark plug for future reference.
3. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for abnormal firing indicators such as fouled, hot, oily, etc.
4. Disable the fuel system and perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Refer to «FUEL DELIVERY, GAS»(ref-457834-S33436164992012030200000) .
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. NOTE: The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test. NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the cylinder combustion pressure leakage test. Refer to «CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE»(ref-457796-S23086858962012030200000)

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

TOP 19 REASONS THAT MAY LEAD TO ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

1. Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
2. Distorted Cylinders This may be caused by unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts. This condition presents a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will be burned and cause high oil consumption.
3. Improper operation of "PCV" system The main purpose of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. The PCV system usually has a one way check valve and a make up air source. The system uses rubber hoses that route crankcase blow by gases to the intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls the blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake air and fuel mixture. The PCV system can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blow by gases in the crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected, the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets and seals due to crankcase pressurization.
4. Worn Piston Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered. Piston rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber.
5. Worn, Broken or Stuck Piston Rings When piston rings are broken, worn or stuck to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are not maintained, this will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. All of these conditions will result in burning and carbon build up of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings.
6. Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping. This condition will lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement.
7. Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned.
8. Bent or Misaligned Connecting Rods Bent or misaligned connecting rods will not allow the pistons to ride straight in the cylinders. This will prevent the pistons and rings from forming a proper seal with the cylinder walls and promote oil consumption. In addition, it is possible that a bearing in a bent connect rod will not have uniform clearance on the connecting rod wrist pin. Under these conditions, the bearing will wear rapidly and throw off an excessive amount of oil into the cylinder.
9. Fuel Dilution If raw fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile and will result in higher oil consumption. The following conditions will lead to higher oil consumption; Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector Gasoline contaminated with diesel fuel Restricted air intake Excessive idling
10. Contaminated Cooling Systems Corrosion, rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator will prevent a cooling system from extracting heat efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion thus leading to higher oil consumption.
11. Oil Viscosity The use of oil with a viscosity that is too light may result in high oil consumption. Refer to the vehicle owners™ manual for the proper oil viscosity to be used under specific driving conditions and/or ambient temperatures.
12. Dirty Engine Oil Failure to change the oil and filter at proper intervals may cause the oil to be so dirty that it will promote accumulation of sludge and varnish and restrict oil passages in the piston rings and pistons. This will increase oil consumption; dirty oil by nature is also consumed at a higher rate than clean oil.
13. Crankcase Overfull Due to an error in inserting the oil dip stick so that it does not come to a seat on its shoulder, a low reading may be obtained. Additional oil may be added to make the reading appear normal with the stick in this incorrect position which will actually make the oil level too high. If the oil level is so high that the lower ends of the connecting rods touch the oil in the oil pan excessive quantities of oil will be thrown on the cylinder walls and some of it will work its way up into the combustion chamber.
14. Excessively High Oil Pressure A faulty oil pressure relief valve may cause the oil pressure to be too high. The result will be that the engine will be flooded with an abnormally large amount of oil in a manner similar to that which occurs with worn bearings. This condition may also cause the oil filter to burst.
15. Aftermarket Performance Chips and Modification Increasing performance through the use of performance/power enhancement products to a stock or factory engine will increase the chance of excessive oil consumption.
16. Lugging Engine Lugging is running the engine at a lower RPM in a condition where a higher RPM (more power/torque) should be implemented. Especially susceptible on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This driving habit causes more stress loading on the piston and can lead to increases in engine oil consumption.
17. Turbocharged Engines There is a possibility for PCV "push-over" due to higher crankcase pressure (as compared to naturally aspirated engines) which is normal for turbocharged engines. This condition causes varying amounts of engine oil to enter the intake manifold, charge air cooler and associated plumbing to and from the charge air cooler, also a leaking turbocharger seal will draw oil into the combustion chamber where it will burn (blue smoke from tail pipe may be present) and form carbon deposits which contribute to further oil consumption as they interfere with proper engine function.
18. Restricted Air Intake Excessive restriction in the air intake system will increase engine vacuum and can increase oil consumption, an extremely dirty air filter would be one example of this situation.
19. Intake Manifold port seals Engines that have a "V" configuration and a "wet valley" could draw oil into the intake ports due to improper sealing between the intake manifold ports and cylinder head. Causes may include improper torque of intake manifold bolts, corrosion (aluminum intake manifold) and or warped sealing surface.

Scheme 261

Due to the high amounts of failures cased by dust, dirt, moisture and other foreign debris being introduced to the engine during service. Covers or caps are needed to reduce the possible damage that can be caused or created.

Scheme 262

Covers over openings will reduce any possibilities for foreign materials to enter the engine systems. Using miller tool (special tool #10368, Set, Universal Protective Cap), Select the appropriated cover needed to the procedure.

ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS

Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug.

Scheme 263

Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.

It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

Note. All of the sealants mentioned below are not used on every engine, they are listed as general reference guide. See service information for specific sealer usage.

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket. All sealing surfaces that use form-in-place gaskets and sealers must free of grease or oil. Surfaces should be cleaned with Mopar® brake parts cleaner prior to sealer application. After the sealer is applied, the parts should be assembled in no more than 10 minutes.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal the area between the bed plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

CYLINDER HEAD

The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylinder heads.

VALVE GUIDES

The valve guides are made of powered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CLEANING

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components. Refer to Standard Procedure .

Scheme 264

1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness, using a straightedge (2) and a feeler gauge (1). Check Cylinder head in several locations. If tolerances exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.

Scheme 265

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 266

Scheme 267

Scheme 268

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts (11 - 14) require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M11 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an torque angle procedure.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Tighten bolts 1 - 10 to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Verify that bolts 1 - 10 have all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 14 N.m (89 in. lbs.). Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90°. Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90° again. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position the gear onto the camshaft.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the left side secondary chain guide. Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S29246556642012030200000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
10. Install the cylinder head access plug (2).
11. Reset and Install the left side secondary chain tensioner. Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S29246556642012030200000) . 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SECONDARY CAMSHAFT CHAIN HOLDER 8429
12. Remove Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder (special tool #8429, Holder, Secondary Camshaft Chain) (6).
13. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Engine Timing , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S32975697962012030200000) .
14. Install the crankshaft damper. Refer to «DAMPER, Vibration , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S39094303242012030200000) .
15. Install the power steering pump.
16. Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud.
17. Install the cylinder head cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S35079994162012030200000) .
18. Reinstall the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «BASE BRAKE - SERVICE INFORMATION»(ref-457773) article.
19. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, Intake , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S15831032312012030200000) .
20. Fill the cooling system. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
23. Drain oil.
24. Lower the vehicle.
25. Fill with oil.
26. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
27. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 269

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking (2) can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale (2), the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 270

Scheme 271

Scheme 272

Scheme 273

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts (11 - 14) require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M10 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Tighten bolts 1 - 10 to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Verify that bolts 1 - 10 have all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 14 N.m (89 in. lbs.). Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90°. Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90° again. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear (2) and position the gear onto the camshaft.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the right side secondary chain guide. Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S29246556642012030200000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
10. Install the right side cylinder head access plug (1).
11. Reset and install the right side secondary chain tensioner. 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SECONDARY CAMSHAFT CHAIN HOLDER 8429
12. Remove Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder (special tool #8429, Holder, Secondary Camshaft Chain) (6).
13. Install the timing chain cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Engine Timing , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S32975697962012030200000) .
14. Install the crankshaft damper. Refer to «DAMPER, Vibration , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S39094303242012030200000) .
15. Install accessory drive belt.
16. Install the fan shroud.
17. Install the cylinder head cover (1). Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S35079994162012030200000) .
18. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, Intake , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S15831032312012030200000) .
19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
20. Refill the cooling system. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Drain oil.
23. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
24. Lower the vehicle.
25. Fill with new engine oil.
26. Reconnect battery negative cable.
27. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface.

Clean head rail, if necessary.

Scheme 274

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs).
4. Install right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
5. Install spark plug wires (3).
6. Install the oil fill tube.
7. Install PCV hose.
8. Install heater hoses.
9. Install air conditioning compressor retaining bolts.
10. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «BELT, Serpentine , Installation»(ref-457792-S21966014282012030200000) .
11. Fill Cooling system. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
12. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
13. Connect battery negative cable.

Scheme 275

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all studs are in the correct location as shown in illustration.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left side breather and connect breather tube.
5. Install the spark plug wires (3).
6. Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
7. Connect negative cable to battery.

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out

1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (240 in. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 276

Scheme 277

1. Wipe the main bearing inserts (1, 2) clean.
2. Inspect the inserts for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining.
3. Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapes or irregular wear patterns.
4. Inspect the insert locking tabs for damage.
5. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing.
6. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
7. Inspect the main bearing bores for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
8. If the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage, replace the engine block.
9. Use Cylinder Indicator (special tool #C-119, Cylinder Indicator) (2) to correctly measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) Increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
10. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below the top of the bore (4). Start at the top of the bore, perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1).
11. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
12. Determine the taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
13. Rotate the measuring device 90° to point B (1) and repeat the three measurements. Verify that the maximum taper is within specifications.
14. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
15. If the cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) then the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds the maximum limits, replace the cylinder block.

Note. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

Scheme 278

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring. Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.

Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.

Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted connecting rods.

Scheme 279

Scheme 280

Scheme 281

Scheme 282

1. Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal. 1 - Connecting Rod 2 - Bearing Insert - A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
2. Lubricate the upper bearing insert (2) and install in connecting rod (1). Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod. 1 - "F" TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE 2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT 3 - RING COMPRESSOR 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
3. Use piston ring compressor (3) and Guide Pins Special Tool (special tool #8507, Guides, Connecting Rod) (4) to install the rod and piston assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The "F"s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine. 1 - Connecting Rod 2 - Bearing Insert - A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod (1). . The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plastigage across full width of the lower insert at the center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to Engine «Specifications»(ref-457796-S29075114712012030200000) for the proper clearance. Plastigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage (2) from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation. BEARING MARK & SIZE Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH JOURNAL SIZE .025 US .025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm - (.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.) Std. STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm (2.0076-2.0082 in.) .250 US .250 mm (.010 in.) 50.758-50.742 mm (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which service bearing set to use, using the chart above. CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.

Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Scheme 283

The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft position sensor target wheel has grade identification marks stamped into it (3). These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel (2) is mounted to the number 8 counter weight (1) on the crankshaft.

Note. Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.

MAIN BEARING IDENTIFICATION

Scheme 284

Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.

Note. If any of the crankshaft journals are scored, the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.

Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.

Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.

Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the (4) bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the (8) mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 285

Scheme 286

Scheme 287

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle (6).
11. Remove the 3 bolts (3) that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the through bolts
14. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
15. Remove the engine mounts (4,8). 1 - BOLT 2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET 1 - BOLT 2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET 3 - BOLT
16. Remove the engine mount brackets (2).

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8) bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough .
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts (4, 8) to the front axle (6). Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots.
5. Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan.
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 288

The lubrication system is a full flow filtration pressure feed type.

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

Note. Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

Scheme 289

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture special tool (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support). Do not raise engine at this time.
3. Loosen both left and right side engine mount through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
4. Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
5. Drain engine oil.
6. Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines at radiator, transmission fittings and clips. NOTE: When disconnecting the transmission oil cooler lines, it is necessary to replace the line clip that is located on the oil pan stud. The retention force of the clip is severely degraded upon removal.
7. Remove the front crossmember. Refer to «CROSSMEMBER, Lower Control Arm , Removal»(ref-457829-S02998048772012030200000) or «CROSSMEMBER, Transmission , Removal»(ref-457829-S13491836922012030200000) . CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake manifold.
8. Raise engine using special tool (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
9. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
10. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
11. Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket and replace as needed.

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.

Scheme 290

Scheme 291

Scheme 292

Scheme 293

Scheme 294

Scheme 295

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface (3). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge (2) can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor. If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - FEELER GAUGE 2 - OUTER ROTOR
6. Slide outer rotor (2) into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body. If the measurement is 0.235mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - OUTER ROTOR 2 - FEELER GAUGE 3 - INNER ROTOR
7. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer (1) rotors. If the clearance between the rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - STRAIGHT EDGE 2 - FEELER GAUGE
8. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge (2) of .095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced .

Note. The 3.7L/4.7L Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no Chrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an assembly.

1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
2. Clean all gasket residue from the manifold mating surface.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Prior to installation, make sure all gasket mating surfaces are clean and free of any debris. NOTE: The exhaust manifold is installed from below the engine compartment.
2. Position the exhaust manifold and gasket. NOTE: Do not tighten exhaust manifold retainers until all retainers are in place.
3. Install the lower exhaust manifold retaining bolts (1, 2, 3).
4. Install the starter. Refer to «STARTER , Installation»(ref-457802-S22328630612012030200000) .
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Install the upper exhaust manifold retaining bolts and tighten starting at center and working outward to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
7. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield and tighten retaining nuts (4, 5) to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees.
8. Connect the heater hoses at the engine.
9. Install the A/C accumulator support bracket retainers.
10. Install the A/C compressor. Refer to «COMPRESSOR, A/C , Installation»(ref-457787-S06271131602012030200000) .
11. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to «BELT, Serpentine , Installation»(ref-457792-S21966014282012030200000) .
12. Raise and support the vehicle.
13. Connect the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold. Refer to «CONVERTER, Catalytic , Installation»(ref-457794-S02726513982012030200000) .
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Install air cleaner assembly. Refer to «BODY, Air Cleaner , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S16050623352012030200000) .
16. Connect the negative battery cable.
17. Fill the cooling system. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
18. Start the engine and check for leaks.

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Prior to installation, make sure all gasket mating surfaces are clean and free of any debris. NOTE: The exhaust manifold is installed from below the engine compartment.
2. Position the exhaust manifold and gasket. NOTE: Do not tighten exhaust manifold retainers until all retainers are in place.
3. Install the lower exhaust manifold retaining bolts (1, 2, 3).
4. Lower the vehicle.
5. Install the upper exhaust manifold retaining bolts and tighten starting at center and working outward to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
6. Install the front two exhaust manifold heat shield retaining nuts (4).
7. Raise and support the vehicle.
8. Install the rear heat shield (5) retaining nuts and tighten all retaining nuts to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees.
9. Connect the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold. Refer to «CONVERTER, Catalytic , Installation»(ref-457794-S02726513982012030200000) .
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Install the engine cover.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Note. There is NO approved repair procedure for the intake manifold. If severe damage is found during inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.

Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning solvent, then air dry.

ENGINE TIMING VERIFICATION

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

1. Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Removal , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S21006565632012030200000) . 1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER 2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC. 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
3. Note the location of the V8 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V8 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1) on the exhaust stroke. If the V8 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1) on the compression stroke.
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing»(ref-457796-S28000913352012030200000) .
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to «SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING»(ref-457796-S35427948202012030200000) .
6. If both camshaft drive gear V8 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o' clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.

SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING

Note. to adjust the timing on one camshaft, perform the following procedure.

Scheme 296

Scheme 297

1. Using Chain Tensioner Wedge, special tool (special tool #9867, Wedge, Locking) (3), stabilize the secondary chain drive. For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position.
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft.
4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V8 mark is at the same position as the V8 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear. 1 - ADJUSTABLE PLIERS 2 - CAMSHAFT DOWEL NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pliers on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
5. Using a suitable pair of adjustable pliers (1), rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel (2) on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. 1 - TORQUE WRENCH 2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346 1 - TORQUE WRENCH 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346 3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench (special tool #6958, Wrench, Spanner) with Adapter Pins (special tool #8346, Pins, Adapter) and a suitable torque wrench (1), Tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD 3 - SPECIAL TOOL 9867 WEDGE 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 9867 WEDGE
7. Remove special tool (special tool #9867, Wedge, Locking)(3,4). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then reverify that the camshaft drive gear V8 marks are in fact aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Installation , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S35079994162012030200000) .

Scheme 298

Scheme 299

Scheme 300

Scheme 301

Scheme 302

Scheme 303

Scheme 304

1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable (2).
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to «Standard Procedure»(ref-457792-S30781673372012030200000) .
3. Remove both cylinder head covers (1). Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head , Removal , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S21006565632012030200000) .
4. Remove the radiator fan shroud (3).
5. Rotate the engine until the timing mark (2) on the crankshaft damper aligns with the TDC mark on timing chain cover (2) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke).
6. Verify the camshaft sprocket "V8" marks are at the 12 o'clock position (1,2). NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the hoses from the power steering pump, for power steering pump removal.
7. Remove the three power steering pump (1) mounting bolts (2) through the access holes in the pulley and secure out of the way.
8. Remove the right (1) and left (2) access plug from the cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners.
9. Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
10. Remove the vibration damper bolt.
11. Remove the vibration damper using Crankshaft Insert (special tool #8513A, Insert, Crankshaft) (1) and (special tool #1023, Puller) Three Jaw Puller (2). CAUTION: The 4.7L engine uses an RTV sealer instead of a gasket to seal the front cover to the engine block, from the factory. For service, Mopar® Grey Engine RTV sealant must be substituted. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the water pump for timing cover removal.
12. Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to «COVER(S), Engine Timing , Removal , 4.7L»(ref-457796-S27348107972012030200000) .
13. Collapse and pin (3) the primary chain tensioner (1). CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan opening.
14. Remove the secondary chain tensioner. The Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) (2) is bolted to the front/top of the right cylinder head (1).
15. Disconnect the electrical connector (4) at the CMP sensor.
16. Remove the sensor mounting bolt (3).
17. Carefully twist the sensor from the cylinder head.
18. Check the condition of the sensor O-ring. CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage the camshaft target wheel. Do not hold the target wheel while loosening or tightening the camshaft sprocket. Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition. CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure the negative battery cable is disconnected and isolated to guard against accidental starter engagement.
19. Remove both camshaft sprocket bolts.
20. While holding the left camshaft steel tube with adjustable pliers (1), remove the left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 15 degrees clockwise to a neutral position.
21. While holding the right camshaft steel tube with adjustable pliers (1), remove the right camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 45 degrees counterclockwise to a neutral position.
22. Remove the idler sprocket assembly bolt.
23. Slide the idler sprocket assembly and the crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and secondary chains.
24. Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
25. Remove the chain tensioner.