Body Frame - Design and Function (Convertible): Other Volvo C70 I

Examples of paint defects

Code 62 - Sealant, adhesive or primer residue

Cause

1. Substance applied too liberally. Panel deformed after application.

Action

1. Remove the residue then apply primer first, then new amount of substance and repaint.

Code 63 - Corrosion, smooth surfaces

Cause

1. mechanical damage to the panel (stone chips)
2. moisture and water drops on clean panel before painting
3. fingermarks on clean panel

Action

1. Stone chips which have not developed creeping corrosion should be dealt with as recommended in the vehicle instruction manual. If damage is extensive or if due to moisture, water or marks originating from the manufacturing process before paintspraying, sand down to the panel and rebuild the paintwork from scratch.
2. Some customers believe stone chips caused by studded tires are due to defective paintwork. A useful rule when inspecting and discussing with customers is to compare the vehicle headlights, windshield etc. with paint on the surfaces where there is a risk of stone chip damage.

Code 64 - Corrosion at seams

Cause

1. Sub-standard welding, defective welding agent, gap in weld allowing moisture to penetrate and defective adhesive.

Action

1. Sand-blast and repaint the seam. Once paint is dry, treat seam with rustproofing agent.
2. Treat inside of seam with penetrating rustproofing liquid.

Code 64 - Creeping corrosion

Cause

1. Creeping or filiform corrosion occurs when the paint surface is missing for various reasons, e.g cracked panel or stone chips and continues to spread if the panel is not pre-treated to prevent this.

Action

1. Sand down to panel in corroded area and repaint.

Code 80 - Color defect, blotches in paint

Solid and Metallic

Cause

1. Old paint
2. Paint inadequately stirred
3. Paint too long in paintsprayer
4. Incorrect amount of hardener
5. Incorrect viscosity or thinning
6. Incorrect air pressure
7. Mixing different brands

Metallic too dark

Cause

1. Metallic undercoat sprayed too wet

Metallic too light

Cause

1. Metallic undercoat sprayed too dry

Action

1. Sand off top coat and repaint. Use wet sandpaper P600.
2. Match shade carefully by spray tests.

Code 81 - Paint runs, drops

Cause

1. Paint viscosity too low
2. Topcoat too thick in places
3. Drying time between sprayings too short

Metallic paint

Action

1. Remove paint edge carefully with a razor blade. Sand area lightly with P 1200 sandpaper and polish. If this does not work, sand down and paint entire surface.

Non-metallic paint

Action

1. Remove paint run carefully with a razor blade. Sand down with P 1200 sandpaper and polish.

Code 82 - Impurities in paint

Cause

1. Dirt particles in air in spray box (dirty intake filter).
2. Inappropriate working clothes (linen).
3. Poor cleaning.
4. Dirt in paint.
5. Poorly cleaned paint filter.
6. Old paint.
7. Contaminated spray air.

Action

1. Trapped particles that are unacceptable to the customer should be sanded and polished. Repaint only if sanding and polishing have little effect and repainting can ensure the eradication of the dirt.

Code 83 - Orange peel surface, matt paint

Cause

1. Thinner evaporated too quickly
2. Incorrect viscosity (too thick)
3. Air humidity in spray box too high
4. Incorrect spray pressure
5. Paint coat too thick
6. Difference in temperature between paint and surface
7. Uneven drying

Action

1. Sand down the topcoat until the orange peel effect is removed using P 400 or P 600 sandpaper and polish up with polishing paste and repolish.

Repaint if this does not work.

Code 84 - Paint coat too thin

Cause

1. Inadequate spraying

Action

1. Note that thin paint is acceptable on certain internal surfaces such as the engine compartment and trunk (boot) and inside the car on surfaces covered by upholstery and seats. On external surfaces, sand down with P 400 or P 600 sandpaper and repaint.

Code 85 - Spray mist, masking faults, visible paint seams. Other visible signs of repair e.g brush retouching

Cause

1. Masking not applied properly (poor masking).
2. Spray pressure too high.
3. The paint repairs or brush retouching carried out during production have not produced a satisfactory result for some reason.

(Polishing repairs)

Action

1. Either polish alone or sand down and then polish. Do not polish over edges.

(Paint repairs)

Action

1. Only remove color fog by sanding if polishing does not give the required result. Sand down to matt and reapply topcoat.
2. Surfaces can be touched up at the actual spot or by limited repainting of the area.

Code 86 - Sanding scratches to the panel or primer coat

Cause

1. Sanding edges, holes, scratches, circular marks or lumps.

Action

1. Minor sanding marks can be removed by wet sanding with P 1000-1200 sandpaper and polishing. Only in the case of extensive scratching should the damaged area be sanded, filled and painted.

Code 87 - Scratches to paintwork

Cause

1. Scratching by sharp objects, polishing marks or cleaning scratches.

Action

1. Treat minor scratches with polishing paste and polish.
2. Sand down deeper scratches using 1200 sandpaper, polish with polishing paste and shine up with polish.
3. Scratches down to the primer coat should be filled in with paint and polished. Respraying may be necessary.

Code 88 - Cracking

Cause

1. Paintwork too thick
2. Low oven temperature
3. With metallic paints, ultra-violet(UV) radiation (especially in hot climates)

Action

1. Sand down to primer coat (P 320) and rebuild topcoat.

Code 89 - Blistering

Cause

1. Sweat on hands
2. Hard water
3. Surface not properly cleaned

Action

1. Sand down to primer coat (P 320) and rebuild topcoat.

Code 90 - Craters in paint ("fish eyes")

Cause

1. Silicon in environment or paint
2. Oil or water in spray air
3. Thinning too fast
4. Incorrect thinning
5. Wrong oven temperature.
6. Paint viscosity too thick.
7. Evaporation time before firing too short. Should be 10-15 minutes.
8. Excessive application at high temperatures.

Action

1. Sand down to the panel and repaint surface.

If craters are only in topcoat, there is no need to sand down to the panel.

Code 91 - Flaking paint, edge peeling or stone chips

Cause

1. Poor cleaning
2. Poor bonding
3. Wrong paint used
4. Other mechanical causes, e.g. stone chips
5. Mechanical causes after the vehicle is passed by factory quality control, e.g. in transit.
6. Paint coat too thick, e.g. after touching up.

Action

1. Sand down and rebuild a new coat of paint. Check adhesion of topcoat by applying tape to paint surface and pulling away suddenly. If topcoat sticks to tape, sand down to primer coat (P 230), rebuild topcoat.
2. Apply paint with touch-up brush or repair spraying.

Code 92 - Atmospheric effects on paint (Oil, bird droppings etc.)

(Industrial emissions/ acid spots)

Cause

1. Aggressive chemical substances such as limestone, cement, rust and acid vapor in conjunction with moisture, mainly affect horizontal surfaces, e.g. bird droppings, oil, soot, degreasing agents etc.

(Bird droppings)

Cause

1. Droppings, especially from seabirds, corrode painted surfaces.

Action

1. Minor changes in color can be remedied by sanding with P 1200 sandpaper and polishing. For extensive areas of staining, sand down and rebuild paintwork. Spray primer coat on areas which are sanded through.
2. Clean immediately when discovered, if serious, respraying is required.

Code 93 - Mechanical impact on paint (spark shower)

(Industrial emissions, flying rust, spark shower from train etc.)

Cause

1. Rusty iron dust particles on paint (horizontal surfaces). Spark showers from railway, street car, trolley-bus contact leads and train brakes etc.

Action

1. Clean with 3% oxalic acid and then wash down with plenty of water. Polishing may be necessary for heavy damage. If particles are embedded deep in paint, paint repairs will be necessary.

Paint defect codes

In order to make communication easier between Volvo Car Corporation and the importer, and between the importer and the dealer regarding paint defects, we have coded the most common paint defects.

Here is an extract from the Volvo Standard for defect codes.

Paint codes in numerical order

The painting systems basic structure

Partial painting or complete painting

In the repair instructions below, a distinction is made between partial and complete painting.

Partial painting and complete painting respectively, are carried out according to the same instructions, as it is only the size of the surface area that distinguishes the repair methods.

There are different work methods dependent on the manufacturers' various systems. Always follow the manufacturers' recommendations and never mix the different systems.

A painting system with this form of structure gives a very durable end-result and a good finish. The work should be carried out in the order stated and none of the stages should be left out.

The book follows the work method recommended by Volvo.

The most appropriate method must be determined for each individual situation.

Note. Special methods for reinforced slit protection in the bottom swell - Paint repairs to the bottom swell painting plastic - Exterior plastic components, 900 Plastic components, Painting

Scheme 4

This is the way the original paint is applied in the factory (Scheme 4) For the best finish, quality and durability.

Scheme 5

A small "ridge" can occur on the bumper casing in the event of a low-speed crash. It is possible to press this ridge out after the bumper casing has been heated.

Heat the bumper casing with a heating pistol so that the damaged area becomes soft.

The bumper casing is sufficiently soft when small marks appear in the plastic when it is pressed lightly with a wooden putty knife or similar.

The appropriate distance between the heating pistol and the bumper casing is approximately 12 cm. This distance though can vary depending on the type of heating pistol. Begin with a larger distance and then reduce it if required.

It can be difficult to heat up large areas. If this is the case, divide the work into sections.

Scheme 6

Note. The paint can be damaged if the temperature is too high. Therefore work carefully and be aware of any changes in the paint that may indicate that the temperature is too high.

Place a damp cloth over the heated area and press out the damage with a wooden block.

Continue the pressure to the bumper casing until it has cooled, approximately in two hours. Use compressed air to accelerate the cooling process.

Repeat the procedure until the damage to the bumper casing has disappeared.

Certain areas of the bumper casing may need repeated treatment.

Sand-Blasting

All corrosion products on the panel must be removed before painting. Sand-blasting is a very effective method of doing this, particularly for deep rust damage.

Scheme 7

Sand blasting involves spraying aluminum oxide at a very high pressure on the damaged area resulting in a clean panel surface.

The advantage of blasting is that inaccessible places can be cleaned and a soft transition from the panel to the paint is obtained. Sanded surfaces also provide a good base for applying tin filler as well as paint.

Volvo stock a complete set of equipment needed for sand-blasting (998 6410-0), with a variety of nozzles.

Scheme 8

Types of nozzle

Scheme 9

Spot blaster

The pistol has 7 revolving suction nozzles which have been developed in conjunction with experienced vehicle painters. These various nozzles are airtight in all the difficult corners and edges of the vehicle. The suction nozzles are made of special rubber which can tolerate long periods of blasting. They prevent dust and dirt from being blown around the premises and protect the paintwork around the damaged area at the same time.

It is important to remove the rust by sand-blasting only, as the vehicle's original paintwork is always stronger than paint repairs.

Note. Sand-blasted surfaces should be sanded with P 280 sandpaper and blown clean with compressed air.

Note. A sand-blasted surface corrodes very easily. The surface should not be exposed to moisture and should be coated with primer as soon as possible.