Overhaul - Except Evolution: Removal & Installation Mitsubishi Lancer IX

<< A >> CRANKSHAFT BOLT REMOVAL

Lock the flywheel or drive plate in position using the special tool MD998781 shown in the illustration, then loosen the crankshaft bolt.

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1. Clean the sealant application surfaces of cam position sensor support and cylinder head.
2. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the cam position sensor support.
3. After installation, wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let engine oil touch the adhesion surface during that time.

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1. Lock the flywheel or drive plate in position using the special tool MD998781 shown in the illustration.
2. Clean the bolt hole in crankshaft bolt and crankshaft pulley's seating surface.
3. Degrease the cleaned seating surface of the crankshaft pulley.
4. Install the crankshaft pulley.
5. Apply oil to the threads of crankshaft bolt and the outer surface of washer.
6. Tighten the crankshaft bolt to the specified torque. Tightening torque: 182 +/- 4 N.m (134 +/- 3 ft-lb)

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Required Special Tools

1. MB990767: End Yoke Holder
2. MD998719: Pin (2)
3. MD998716: Crankshaft Wrench

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1. Mark the belt running direction for reference in reinstallation.
2. Loosen the tensioner mounting bolt.
3. Insert a cross-tip screwdriver into the hole of the tensioner arm as shown illustration.
4. Move the screwdriver all the way in the direction of the arrow, and tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to hold this position.
5. Remove the timing belt. NOTE: Water oil on the belt shortens its life drastically, so the removed timing belt, sprocket, and tensioner must be kept free from oil and water. Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. NOTE: If there is oil or water on any part, check the front case oil seal, camshaft oil seal and water pump for leaks.

>> C << TIMING BELT TENSIONER INSTALLATION

Install the timing belt tensioner in the illustrated position, and then tighten the tensioner mounting bolt.

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1. Install the tensioner spring onto the boss of the front case, and then hook the spring end "A" (shorter one) to the front case rib.
2. Grip the spring end "B" (longer one), and then hook it onto the tensioner arm.

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1. Align the crankshaft sprocket timing mark with the timing mark on the front case, and then rotate the crankshaft sprocket three teeth counterclockwise. CAUTION: Aligning the timing marks positions the piston to the top dead center. Then, if the camshaft turns, the valves might interfere and damage the pistons.
2. Align the camshaft sprocket timing mark with the timing mark on the cylinder head.
3. Rotate the crankshaft sprocket three teeth counterclockwise, and align the crankshaft sprocket timing mark with the timing mark on the front case.
4. Keeping the tension side of the timing belt tight, fit the timing bell onto the crankshaft sprocket, water pump sprocket, camshaft sprocket and tensioner puller in that order.
5. Slightly loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt to tension the belt by a force of the tensioner spring.
6. Using special tool MD998716 turn the crankshaft twice in the clockwise direction. CAUTION: This procedure utilizes the camshaft's driving torque to apply tension evenly to the timing belt. Be sure to turn the crankshaft as described above. Do not turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
7. Check that the timing marks are correctly aligned.
8. Tighten the timing belt tensioner locking bolt to the specified torque.

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1. When installing the timing belt front lower cover, insert the terminal boss of the sensor securely into crankshaft angle sensor connector.
2. Tighten bolt "B" first and then tighten other bolts to specified torque.

>> B << FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR INSTALLATION

1. Apply a drop of clean engine oil to the O-ring, then insert the fuel pressure regulator into the fuel rail, being careful not to damage the O-ring. CAUTION: Do not let engine oil get into the fuel rail.
2. Check that the fuel pressure regulator rotates smoothly. If it does not rotate smoothly, the O-ring may be binding. If this occurs, remove the fuel pressure regulator, check the O-ring for damage, then re-insert the regulator into the fuel rail.

>> C << GASKET INSTALLATION

Position the projection as shown in the illustration.

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1. Clean the sealant application surfaces of the water pump case and cylinder block.
2. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the water pump.
3. After installation, wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let coolant touch the adhesion surface during that time.

>> B << WATER INLET PIPE/O-RING INSTALLATION

Replace the water inlet pipe O-ring with new ones, then apply water to the O-rings so that they can be inserted easily into the cylinder block and the thermostat case.

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1. Clean the sealant application surfaces of the thermostat case and cylinder head.
2. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the thermostat case.
3. After installation, wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let coolant touch the adhesion surface during that time.

>> D << THERMOSTAT INSTALLATION

Install the thermostat so that the jiggle valve is at the top.

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1. Clean the sealant application surfaces of the fittings and cylinder head.
2. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the outlet fitting.
3. After installation, wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let coolant touch the adhesion surface during that time.

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1. When reusing the gauge unit, clean its thread.
2. Apply 3M™ AAD Part number 8672 or equivalent to the engine coolant temperature gauge unit.

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1. When reusing the sensor, clean its thread.
2. Apply 3M™ AAD Part number 8731 or equivalent to the engine coolant temperature sensor.

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Required Special Tools

1. MD998442: Air Bleed Wire
2. MD998443: Lash Adjuster Holder (8)
3. MD998713: Camshaft Oil Seal Installer

<< A >> ROCKER ARM AND ROCKER ARM SHAFT REMOVAL

Set special tool MD998443 to prevent the lash adjuster coming free and falling to the floor.

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>> A << LASH ADJUSTER INSTALLATION

Fit the lash adjuster onto the rocker arm without allowing diesel fuel to spill out. Fit special tool MD998443 to prevent the lash adjuster coming free and falling to the floor.

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>> B << ROCKER ARM SHAFT INSTALLATION

Install the rocker arm shafts, place the end with notched side toward the timing belt side as shown.

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>> C << ROCKER ARMS AND ROCKER ARM SHAFT INSTALLATION

Move the rocker arms in the directions shown in the illustration before tightening the rocker arm shaft bolts.

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1. Insert the rocker arm spring at an angle to the spark plug guide and then install it so that it is at a right angle to the guide.
2. Remove the special tool from rocker arms.

>> D << OIL SEAL INSTALLATION

Use special tool MD998713 to install the camshaft oil seal.

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<< A >> CYLINDER HEAD BOLT REMOVAL

Using the special tool MB991653 to loosen the cylinder head bolts.

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1. Using special tool MD998772 or MD998735, compress the retainer locks.
2. Remove the retainer locks. NOTE: Tag removed valves, springs and other components, noting their cylinder numbers and locations to facilitate reassembly. Store these components safely.

<< C >> VALVE STEM SEAL REMOVAL

Do not reuse removed valve stem seal.

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1. Install the valve spring seat.
2. Using special tool MD998774, install a new stem seal to the valve guide. CAUTION: Do not reuse removed valve stem seals. The valve stem seal must be installed using the correct special tool. Incorrect installation could result in oil leaking past the valve guide.

>> B << VALVE SPRING INSTALLATION

Install the valve spring so that the painted end is on the rocker arm side.

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>> C << RETAINER LOCK INSTALLATION

Using special tool MD998772 or MD998735, compress the valve spring and insert the retainer lock into position.

Note. The valve spring, if excessively compressed, causes the bottom end of retainer to be in contact with the stem seal, and damage it.

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1. Before reusing the cylinder head bolt, measure that its shank length does not exceed the specified limit. Replace the bolt if this measurement exceeds the limit. Limit: Max. 96.4 mm (3.795 inches)
2. Fit the washer as shown.
3. Apply engine oil to the bolt thread and washer.
4. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown until each is torqued to 74 N.m (54 ft-lb) using the cylinder head bolt wrench special tool (MB991653).
5. Loosen all bolts fully.
6. Retighten the bolts in the sequence shown until each is torqued to 20 N.m (15 ft-lb).
7. Make paint marks on the cylinder head bolt heads and cylinder head as shown.
8. In accordance with the tightening sequence, tighten each bolt by 90 degree angle (1/4 turn).
9. Tighten each bolt by further 90 degree angle (1/4 turn) and check that the paint marks on the bolt head and cylinder head are aligned. CAUTION: If the bolts are tightened by an angle of less than 90 degree angle (1/4 turn), they may not hold the cylinder head with sufficient strength. If the bolts are tightened by an angle exceeding 90 degree angle, completely remove them and repeat the installation procedure.

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1. Before cleaning the cylinder head, check it for water leaks, gas leaks, cracks, and other damage.
2. Remove all oil, water scale, sealant, and carbon. After cleaning the oil passages, blow air through them to verify that they are not blocked.
3. Check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness by using a straight edge and feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.03 mm (0.0012 inch) Limit: 0.2 mm (0.008 inch)
4. If flatness exceeds the specified limit, grind the gasket surface to specification. Grinding limit: *0.2 mm (0.008 inch) *Includes/combined with cylinder block grinding Cylinder head height (Specification when new): 119.9 - 120.1 mm (4.720 - 4.728 inches)

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1. Check the valve face for correct contact. If contact is uneven or incomplete, reface the valve seat.
2. If the margin is less than specified, replace the valve. Standard value: Intake: 1.0 mm (0.039 inch) Exhaust: 1.3 mm (0.051 inch) Limit: Intake: 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) Exhaust: 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)
3. Measure the valve length. If the measurement is less than specified, replace the valve. Standard value: Intake: 110.15 mm (4.337 inches) Exhaust: 113.70 mm (4.476 inches) Limit: Intake: 109.65 mm (4.317 inches) Exhaust: 113.20 mm (4.457 inches)

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1. Measure the valve spring free height. If the measurement is less than specified, replace spring. Standard value: 49.5 mm (1.95 inches) Limit: 48.5 mm (1.91 inches)
2. Measure the squareness of the spring. If the measurement is less than specified, replace the spring. Standard value: 2° or less Limit: 4°

<< A >> UPPER OIL PAN/LOWER OIL PAN REMOVAL

At first remove the bolt [length 127: mm (5 inches)] Which is nearest to flywheel or drive plate, and the remove the other bolts.

<< B >> OUTER ROTOR/INNER ROTOR REMOVAL

Make alignment dots on the outer and inner rotors for reference in reassembly.

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>> A << INNER ROTOR/OUTER ROTOR INSTALLATION

Apply engine oil to the rotors. Then, install the rotors ensuring that the alignment dots made at disassembly are properly aligned.

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1. Clean the sealant application surfaces on the cylinder block and oil pump case.
2. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the oil pump case.
3. Tighten the oil pan bolts to the specified torque. Tightening torque: 14 +/- 1 N.m (124 +/- 9 in-lb)
4. After installation, wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let engine oil touch the adhesion surface during that time.

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1. Place the special tool MD998717 on the crankshaft front end and apply engine oil to the its outer diameter.
2. Apply engine oil to the oil seal lip, then push the oil seal along the guide by hand until it touches the oil pump case. Tap the oil seal into place using the special tool.

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1. Clean the mating surfaces of the upper oil pan and lower oil pan and cylinder block.
2. Apply a 4 mm (0.16 inch) diameter bead of sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Parts number MD970389, or equivalent to the upper oil pan and lower oil pan. NOTE: Install the oil pan within 15 minutes after applying liquid gasket. NOTE: Then wait at least one hour. Never start the engine or let engine oil or coolant touch the adhesion surface during that time.
3. Tighten the lower oil pan mounting bolts in the sequence shown in the illustration. Tighten torque: 11 +/- 1 N.m (98 +/- 8 in-lb)

>> E << DRAIN PLUG GASKET INSTALLATION

Replace the drain plug gasket with a new one. Fit the new gasket as shown.

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>> F << OIL FILTER INSTALLATION

1. Clean the filter mounting surfaces on the front case.
2. Apply clean engine oil to the O-ring of the oil filter.
3. Screw on the oil filter until its O-ring is seated on the mounting surface. Then, give the oil filter one further turn. CAUTION: The oil filter must be tightened using a commercially available filter wrench. If the filter is tightened by hand only, it will be insufficiently torqued, resulting in oil leaks.

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1. Apply 3M™ AAD part number 8672 or equivalent to the oil pressure switch. CAUTION: Use care not to allow the sealant to plug the oil passage.
2. Install and tighten the switch to the specified torque by using a socket wrench and torque wrench. CAUTION: If the switch is tightened with a spanner or offset wrench, an over-torque may be applied and the switch to be damaged.

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1. Fit the rotors into the oil pump case.
2. Check the tip clearance, using a feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.03 - 0.08 mm (0.0012 - 0.0032 inch)
3. Check the side clearance, using a straight edge and feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.04 - 0.10 mm (0.0016 - 0.0039 inch)
4. Check the body clearance, using a feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.10 - 0.18 mm (0.0039 - 0.0071 inch) Limit: 0.35 mm (0.0138 inch)

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Required special tool

1. MIT216941: Piston Pin Setting Tool

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1. Mark the cylinder number on the side of the connecting rod big end for correct reassembly.
2. Keep the removed connecting rods, caps, and bearings in order according to the cylinder number.

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1. Remove the stop screw from the base.
2. Select the correct piston support for your application (See above). Fit the piston support onto the base. Place the base on press support blocks.
3. Insert the press pin through the piston pin hole. Select the correct connecting rod guide pin (See above). Thread the guide pin onto he threaded portion of the press pin.
4. Position the piston assembly on the piston support in the press. With the press pin up , insert the guide pin through the hole in the piston and through the hole in the piston support.
5. Press the piston pin out of the assembly. IMPORTANT: To avoid piston damage. The piston support must seat squarely against the piston. Verify that the piston pin will slide through the hole in the piston support.
6. Remove the piston pin from the press pin.

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1. When replacing the piston pin, read off the cylinder bore size mark on the cylinder block as illustrated, and select a piston according to the flowing table. NOTE: The piston size mark shows on the top of the piston.
2. Thread the stop screw and lock nut assembly into the base. Fit the correct piston support on top of the base. Insert the press pin, threaded end up, into the hole in the piston support until the press pin touches the stop screw.
3. Using the markings on the press pin, adjust the stop screw to the depth as shown below. Depth: Refer to the operating instructions on the special tool.
4. Replace the base on press support blocks.
5. Slide the piston pin over the threaded end of the press pin, and thread the correct guide pin up against it.
6. Coat the piston pin with oil, and with the connecting rod held in position, slide the guide pin through the piston and connecting rod.
7. Press the piston pin through the connecting rod until the guide pin contacts the stop screw.
8. Remove the piston assembly from the base. Remove the guide pin and press pin from the assembly. IMPORTANT: Due to production tolerance variations, it is necessary to visually inspect the piston pin depth after installation to verify that the piston pin is centered. Adjust it necessary.
9. Check that the piston moves smoothly.

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1. Fit the oil ring spacer into the piston ring groove. Then fit the upper and lower side rails. NOTE: The spacer and side rails may be fitted in either direction. No distinction is made between top and bottom. NOTE: Spacer and side rail sizes are color-coded as follows: To Install a side rail, fit one end of the rail into the groove, then press the rest of the rail into position by hand as shown. CAUTION: Do not fit side rails using a piston ring expander since they may break.
2. After installing the side rails, check that they more smoothly in both directions.

>> C << PISTON RING NO.2/PISTON RING NO.1 INSTALLATION

Using a ring expander, fit ring No.2 and ring No.1 with their identification marks facing upward (on the piston crown side).

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Identification mark

1. No.1 ring: T
2. No.2 ring: T2

Note. The piston ring is stamped with the following size mark.

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1. Apply oil to the piston, piston ring, and oil ring.
2. Align the gaps of the piston rings and oil rings (side rails and spacer) as shown.
3. With the piston crown's front arrow mark pointing toward the timing belt side, press the piston and connecting rod assembly into the cylinder from the top of the cylinder.
4. Compress the piston rings tightly with a suitable ring compression tool, then press the piston and connecting rod fully into the cylinder. Do not strike the piston hard since the piston rings may break and the crank pin may be nicked.

>> E << CONNECTING ROD BEARING INSTALLATION

When replacing the bearings and/or crankshaft, read off the identification mark on the crankshaft (as illustrated), and select a bearing according to the following table.

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1. Aligning the marks made during disassembly, fit the bearing cap onto the connecting rod. If the connecting rod is new and has no index mark, ensure that the bearing locking notches are both on the same side.
2. Check that the connecting rod big end side clearance confirms with specification. Standard value: 0.10 - 0.25 mm (0.0039 - 0.0098 inch) Limit: 0.4 mm (0.016 inch)

Scheme 486

1. Since the connecting rod cap bolts and nuts are torqued using the plastic area tightening method, the bolts should be examined before reuse. If the bolt threads are "necked down", the bolt should be replaced. Necking can be checked by running a nut with your fingers the full length of the bolt threads. If the nut does not run down smoothly, the bolt should be replaced.
2. Before installation of each nut, apply engine oil to the nut.
3. Install each nut to the bolt and finger-tighten it. Then tighten the nuts alternately to install the cap properly.
4. Tighten the nuts to a torque of 20 N.m (15 ft-lb).
5. Make a paint mark on the head of each nut.
6. Make a paint mark on the bolt end at the position 90 degree angle to 100 degree angle from the paint mark made on the nut in the direction of tightening the nut.
7. Give a 90 degree angle to 100 degree angle turn to the nut and make sure that the paint mark on the nut and that on the bolt are in alignment. CAUTION: If the nut is turned less than 90 degree angle, proper fastening performance may not be expected. When tightening the nut, therefore, be careful to give a sufficient turn to it. If the nut is overtightened (exceeding 100 degree angle), loosen the nut completely and then retighten it by repeating the tightening procedure from step (1).

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1. Check for side clearance. If the limit is exceeded, replace the ring or piston, or both. Standard value: No.1: 0.03 - 0.07 mm (0.0012 - 0.0028 inch) No.2: 0.02 - 0.06 mm (0.0008 - 0.0024 inch) Limit: No.1: 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) No.2: 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch)
2. Install the piston ring into the cylinder bore. Force the ring down with a piston, the piston crown being in contact with the ring, to correctly position it at right angles to the cylinder wall. Then, measure the end gap with a feeler gauge. If the end gap is excessive, replace the piston ring. Standard value: No.1 ring: 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.0059 - 0.0118 inch) No.2 ring: 0.40 - 0.55 mm (0.0157 - 0.0217 inch) Oil ring: 0.10 - 0.35 mm (0.0039 - 0.0138 inch) Limit: No.1, No.2 ring: 0.8 mm (0.031 inch) Oil ring: 1.0 mm (0.039 inch)

Scheme 489

1. Remove oil from the crankshaft pin and connecting rod bearing.
2. Cut the plastic gauging material to the same length as the width of bearing and place it on crankshaft pin in parallel with its axis.
3. Install the connecting rod cap carefully and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. (See «Connecting Rod Cap Nut Tightening»(ref-183617-S32261190602005081800000) procedure.)
4. Carefully remove the connecting rod cap.
5. Measure the width of the plastic gauging material at its widest part by using a scale printed on its package. Standard value: 0.02 - 0.05 mm (0.0008 - 0.0020 inch) Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch)

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Required Special Tools

1. MD998776: Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer
2. MB990938: Handle

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1. When replacing the bearings, crankshaft and/or cylinder block, read off the identification mark on the crankshaft and cylinder block (as illustrated), and select a bearing according to the following table.
2. Install bearings having an oil groove to the cylinder block.
3. Install bearings having no oil groove onto the bearing caps.
4. Install the thrust bearings at the No.3 upper bearing with the grooved side toward the crankshaft web.

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1. Install the bearing cap so their arrow is positioned on the timing belt side.
2. When reusing the bearing cap bolt, measure that its shank length dose not exceed the specified limit. Replace the bolt if this measurement exceeds the limit. Limit: max. 71.1 mm (2.799 inches)
3. Apply engine oil to the bolt thread and flange of the bolt.
4. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to 25 N.m (18 ft-lb) torque in the sequence shown.
5. Make a paint mark on the head of each bolt.
6. Make a paint mark on the bearing cap at the position 90 degree angle to 100 degree angle from the paint mark on the bolt head in the direction of tightening the bolt.
7. Give a 90 degree angle to 100 degree angle turn to the bolt in the tightening sequence. Make sure that the paint mark on the bolt and that on the bearing cap are in alignment. CAUTION: If the bolt is turned less than 90 degree angle, proper fastening performance may not be expected. When tightening the bolt, therefore, be careful to give a sufficient turn to it. If the bolt is overtightened (exceeding 100 degree angle), loosen the bolt completely and then retighten it by repeating the tightening procedure from step (1).
8. Check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.
9. Measure the end play in the crankshaft. If the measurement exceeds the specified limit, replace the crankshaft bearings. Standard value: 0.05 - 0.25 mm (0.0020 - 0.0098 inch) Limit: 0.4 mm (0.016 inch)

>> C << REAR OIL SEAL INSTALLATION

Using special tools MD998776 and MB990938, press-fit the oil seal in the case.

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1. Apply the sealant Mitsubishi Genuine Part number MD970389 or equivalent to the oil seal case.
2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the entire circumference of the oil seal lip section, and place the oil seal case on the cylinder block.

Scheme 501

1. Remove all the remaining sealant from bolts and thread holes of crankshaft.
2. Apply engine oil to the flange of bolt.
3. Apply engine oil into the thread holes of crankshaft.
4. Apply 3M™ AAD part number 8672 or equivalent to the drive plate bolt or flywheel bolt.
5. Tighten the bolts to specified torque. Tightening torque: 98 +/- 5 N.m (72 +/- 3 ft-lb)

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Scheme 503

1. Remove oil from the crankshaft journal and the crankshaft bearing.
2. Install the crankshaft.
3. Cut the Plastigage to the same length as the width of bearing and place it on the journal in parallel with its axis.
4. Install the crankshaft bearing cap carefully and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
5. Carefully remove the crankshaft bearing cap.
6. Measure the width of the Plastigage at its widest part by using a scale printed on the Plastigage package. Standard value: 0.02 - 0.04 mm (0.0008 - 0.0016 inch) Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch)

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1. Visually check for cracks, rust, and corrosion, and inspect the cylinder block using a flaw detecting agent. Rectify defects where possible or replace the cylinder block.
2. Ensure that the top surface is free of gasket chips and other foreign material. Check the cylinder block top surface for distortion using a straight edge and feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.05 mm (0.0020 inch) or less Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch)
3. If the distortion is excessive, correct within the allowable limit or replace. Grinding limit: 0.2 mm (0.008 inch) The total thickness of the stock allowed to be removed from cylinder block and mating cylinder head of 0.2 mm (0.008 inch) at maximum. Cylinder block height (when new): 286.7 mm (11.287 inches)
4. Check the cylinder walls for cracks and seizure marks. If defects are evident, bore all the cylinders to oversize or replace the cylinder block.
5. Using a cylinder gauge, measure each cylinder bore and cylindricity. If any cylinder is severely worn, bore all the cylinder to oversize and replace the piston and piston rings accordingly. Take measurements at the points shown. Standard value: Cylinder bore inside diameter: 81.5 mm (3.21 inches) Cylindricity: 0.01 mm (0.0004 inch) or less

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1. Oversize pistons should be based on the largest bore cylinder. Piston size identification NOTE: The size mark is stamped on the piston top.
2. Measure the outside diameter of piston to be used. Measure it in thrust direction as shown.
3. Based on the measured piston outside diameter (O.D.), calculate the boring finish dimension. Boring finish dimension = Piston O.D. + (Clearance between piston O.D. and cylinder) - 0.02 mm (0.0008 inch) (honing margin)
4. Bore each cylinders to the calculated boring finish dimension. CAUTION: To prevent distortion caused by heat increased during boring, bore the cylinders in the following order: No.2, No.4, No.1, No.3.
5. Hone the cylinders to the final finish dimension (Piston O.D. + Piston-to-cylinder clearance).
6. Check the clearance between piston and cylinder.
7. Standard value: 0.02 - 0.04 mm (0.0008 - 0.0016 inch) NOTE: When boring cylinders, finish all of four cylinders to the same oversize. Do not bore only one cylinder to an oversize.