Cleaning
Ensure that the all components are completely clean.
Blow clean the oil ducts in the block, intermediate section and oil pan.
Scheme 419
Wipe clean the bearing recesses in the block and the intermediate section.
Check that the components are clean and undamaged.
Check the classification of the block and crankshaft.
The classification marking is at the rear edge of the block and the crankshaft. The classification is read from digits 1 to 7. The first letter after digit 1 is the classification of main bearing 1. The bearing positions are numbered starting at the front of the engine.
Selecting bearings
| Cylinder block classification / Crankshaft classification | A | Small diameter | B | Medium- diameter | C | Large diameter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Block | Intermediate section | Block | Intermediate section | Block | Intermediate section | |
| A small | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Blue thick | Blue thick | Blue thick |
| B medium | Red thin | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Blue thick |
| C large | Red thin | Red thin | Red thin | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium |
Install the main bearings in the cylinder block and the intermediate section. See the table.
The axial bearing is positioned at bearing recess 5.
For example: The marking on the block at bearing recess 1 is B. The marking on the crankshaft at the corresponding bearing recess is C.
Therefore the bearing in the block is marked red and the bearing in the intermediate section is marked yellow.
Note. The thickest of the bearing caps must always be installed in the intermediate section. This is keep the center line as straight as possible.
Scheme 420
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 to the intermediate section. The surface must be completely covered without any excess. Use roller 9512767
Thoroughly lubricate all the bearing shells and the surface of the axial bearing.
Scheme 421
Install the two old screws for the flywheel and carrier plate at the rear edge of the crankshaft.
Lift these and the front of the crankshaft.
Carefully position the crankshaft in the block.
The crankshaft must not be turned before the intermediate section has been torque tightened. Position the intermediate section.
Install all screws. Draw the intermediate section down towards the block.
Note. Use new M10 screws.
Tighten in the numerical order illustrated.
Tighten the screws in the following order.
| 1. All M10 screws 20 Nm |
|---|
| 2. All M10 screws 45 Nm |
| 3. All M8 screws 24 Nm |
| 4. All M7 screws 17 Nm |
| 5. Angle-tighten all M10 screws 90° |
Scheme 422
Assemble the connecting rod. Check that the cover is facing the correct direction. Tighten to 20 Nm .
Secure the large end of the connecting rod in a vise with soft jaws (copper or aluminum).
Mark both halves with the cylinder number. Use a center punch or number punch.
Scheme 423
Use piston ring pliers.
Turn the piston rings so that the openings are offset as illustrated.
A=Compression ring. The text on the piston ring must be upwards.
B=Scraper ring. Chamfered edge must face downwards.
C=Oil ring. Three sections, identical on all sides.
First install the expander ring (C), then the two other rings over the expander ring.
| CAUTION | Ensure that the piston rings can be turned easily. |
Note. Incorrect positioning increases oil consumption.
Scheme 424
There is an arrow on top of the piston. This must be turned forwards in the cylinder block.
The connecting rods are symmetrical and can be turned freely. Marked rods however must be turned in the same direction.
Assemble the connecting rod and piston with the piston pin.
Check that the classification and any numbering for each cylinder and piston diameter correspond.
Install both the snap rings on the piston pin. Check that the snap rings are positioned correctly in the piston.
Wipe clean around the bearing recess in the connecting rod and the cap.
Install the bearing shells.
If new bearing shells are used, these must be checked for color coding.
Note. The bearing shell with a black color coding on the side must be installed in the connecting rod.
| CAUTION | If reusing the bearing shells, they must be installed in the same position as before. |
Scheme 425
Use a cylinder ring compressor.
Lubricate the cylinder bore, the pistons and the bearing shells.
Turn the crankshaft so that the connecting rod pin is at bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder the piston is to be inserted in.
Ensure that the engine is in a position where the cylinder bore forms as vertical a line as possible.
Note. The arrow on top of the piston must point forwards. Ensure that the classifications correspond!
Carefully press or tap the piston down (using the shaft of a hammer or similar).
When the piston has released from the piston ring compressor, remove it and press the piston down until the connecting rod reaches the connecting rod pin.
Scheme 426
Turn the engine 180° in the stand.
Install the cover. Check that any markings correspond.
Lubricate and install new seals. Tighten in two stages
- 20 Nm .
- Angle-tighten 90° .
Check that the connecting rod can be moved sideways.
Note. The crankshaft must not be rotated before the connecting rod cover has been tightened.
Scheme 427
Install a new sealing ring on the suction pipe.
Carefully press the suction pipe down into the intermediate section.
Check that the sealing ring is correctly positioned.
Tighten.
Install new sealing rings for the oil pan oil ducts.
Scheme 428
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 to the oil pan. Use roller 9512767 .
The surface must be completely covered without any excess.
Position the pan and install all screws
| CAUTION | Check that the rear edge of the oil pan is in line with the rear edge of the cylinder block. Permissible tolerance 0.025 mm. Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge. |
Tighten the screws from the rear of the pan and forward.
Scheme 429
Install new sealing rings in the oil pan.
Install the oil cooler. Tighten.
Scheme 430
Use standard handle 9991801 and drift 9995676 .
Lubricate the drift face and thread the sealing ring onto the drift.
Tap in the seal until the drift bottoms against the block.
Engine block, installing components
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Installing engine block components
Note. Always use new seal washers and gaskets!
Install
- thermostat housing (B52x4x)
- knock sensor (KS)
- flame trap
- the pipe screw for the water-heated crankcase ventilation.
| B5xx4x Engine body, exposing |
|---|
| B6xx4x Engine body, exposing |
If in doubt about the order of assembly see
Install the flywheel and carrier plate. See Crankshaft seal rear, replacing .
| B5xx4x Tightening torque |
|---|
| B6xx4x Tightening torque |
For the correct tightening torques see
The ignition coil alignment and the wiring routing follows the illustrations below.
B5xx4x
Scheme 431
B6xx4x
Scheme 432
Installing the cylinder head
Special tools
9512050
9512767
9995450
9995451
9995452
9995454
9995718
9995719
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Installing the water pump
Install the rear timing cover.
Screw into place at the three mounting points.
Install the water pump with a new gasket .
Apply thread sealant, P/N 11-61 056, to all the screws for the water pump. Tighten crosswise.
Installing the oil pump
Use a new gasket and a new O-ring around the oil pump housing.
Screw sliding sleeve 999 5747 into place at the front of the crankshaft journal.
Press in the pump over the sliding sleeve.
Apply thread sealant, P/N 11-61 056, to all the screws for the oil pump.
Install the screws as a guide.
Carefully tap in the oil pump with a rubber mallet.
Tighten the oil pump crosswise. Tighten to 10 Nm .
Remove sliding sleeve 999 5747 .
Installing the crankshaft timing gear pulley
Note. The timing gear pulley can only be installed in one position on the crankshaft journal splines (see the illustration).
Carefully tap in the timing gear pulley with a rubber mallet.
Installing the idler pulley and belt tensioner
Install
- idler pulley. Tighten
- the belt tensioner and the centre screw so that the tensioner fork is centred over the cylinder block rib. Do not tighten
- the lower belt guard at the oil pump
- the fuel delivery line.
Scheme 433
Timing gear pulleys with variable valve timing unit
Check that the screws holding the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit have been slackened off.
Press the variable valve timing unit and timing gear pulley onto the camshaft.
Install the centre screw which secures the variable valve timing unit to the camshaft. Do not tighten.
Position the upper timing cover.
Turn the timing gear pulley clockwise until the screws at the oval holes are in their respective limit positions.
Hold the variable valve timing unit. Turn clockwise until the timing gear pulley marking is 1 cog before the marking on the upper timing cover.
Check that the timing gear pulley is still in the limit position in the oval holes.
Tighten the centre screw for the variable valve timing (VVT) unit. Tighten to 120 Nm .
Note. Check that the VVT unit does not rotate when tightening.
Install the centre plug. Tighten to 35 Nm .
Timing gear pulleys without variable valve timing units
Install the timing gear pulley on the camshaft with two screws. Do not tighten.
Adjust the timing gear pulley so that the markings on the timing gear pulley and the upper timing cover correspond.
Scheme 434
Tighten the centre screw on the timing belt tensioner. Tighten to 5 Nm .
Turn the variable valve timing unit clockwise until stop. Use a Tx 55 torx wrench applied at the center plug.
Hold the variable valve timing unit secure in the limit position.
Install the timing belt in the following order
- Crankshaft
- Idler pulley
- Intake camshaft
- Exhaust camshaft
- Coolant pump
- Belt tensioner
Note. Adjust the timing gear pulleys so that the screws are not at a limit position in the oval holes.
Check that the markings on the timing gear pulleys and the upper timing cover correspond.
Scheme 435
Tighten the timing belt
This adjustment is carried out on a cold engine. A suitable temperature is approximately 20°C/68°F.
At a higher temperature, for example with a warm engine or a higher ambient temperature, the needle is further to the right.
The illustration shows the position of the indicator when aligning the timing belt tensioner at different temperatures.
Scheme 436
Hold the centre screw secure and turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner anti-clockwise until the tensioner indicator reaches the limit position.
Tighten the three screws securing the timing gear pulley for the exhaust camshaft to the variable valve timing unit. Tighten to 10 Nm .
Install the third screw at the timing gear pulley for the intake camshaft. Tighten the screws. Tighten to 20 Nm .
Note. The VVT unit must not be released from the limit position until after the timing gear pulleys have been tightened.
Turn the eccentric back (clockwise) so that the indicator reaches the marked position in the centre of the window. Remember to hold the centre screw secure at the same time.
Hold the eccentric secure and tighten the centre screw. Tighten to 20 Nm .
Check that the indicator is in the correct position.
Remove
- the camshaft adjustment tools «9995451»(ref-403953-S26663901482011061000000)
- the crankshaft stop «9995452»(ref-403953-S02369714572011061000000) Install the plug with a new blind cover plug . Tighten to 40 Nm .
Check
Press the toothed belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.
Ensure that the all components are completely clean.
Blow clean the oil ducts in the block, intermediate section and oil pan.
Scheme 437
Install the piston cooling nozzles. Tighten to 17 Nm .
Scheme 438
Install the piston cooling valve. Use a seal washer. Tighten to 38 Nm .
Classification of main bearings
Wipe clean the bearing recesses in the block and the intermediate section.
Check that the components are clean and undamaged.
Check the classification of the block and crankshaft.
The classification marking is at the rear edge of the block and the crankshaft. The classification is read from digits 1 to 7. The first letter after digit 1 is the classification of main bearing 1. The bearing positions are numbered starting at the front of the engine.
| Cylinder block classification / Crankshaft classification | A | Small diameter | B | Medium- diameter | C | Large diameter |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Block | Intermediate section | Block | Intermediate section | Block | Intermediate section | |
| A small | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Blue thick | Blue thick | Blue thick |
| B medium | Red thin | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Blue thick |
| C large | Red thin | Red thin | Red thin | Yellow medium | Yellow medium | Yellow medium |
Install the main bearings in the cylinder block and the intermediate section. See the table.
The axial bearing is positioned at bearing recess 5.
| CAUTION | When reusing old bearing halves, make sure that they are positioned correctly with regards to crankshaft's rotational direction. |
For example: The marking on the block at bearing recess 1 is B. The marking on the crankshaft at the corresponding bearing recess is C.
Therefore the bearing in the block is marked red and the bearing in the intermediate section is marked yellow.
Note. The thickest bearing halves must always be installed in the intermediate section. This is in order to obtain a center line that is as straight as possible.
The intermediate section
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 on the intermediate section. The surface must be completely covered without any excess. Use roller 9512767
Thoroughly lubricate all the bearing shells and the surface of the axial bearing.
Marking the connecting rod (where applicable)
Assemble the connecting rod. Check that the cover is facing the correct direction. Tighten to 20 Nm .
Secure the large end of the connecting rod in a vise with soft jaws (copper or aluminum).
Mark both halves with the cylinder number. Use a center punch or number punch.
The bearing shell with the black color coding on the side must be installed in the connecting rod.
Scheme 439
Use piston ring pliers.
Turn the piston rings so that the openings are offset as illustrated.
A=Compression ring. The text on the piston ring must be upwards.
B=Scraper ring. Chamfered edge must face downwards.
C=Oil ring. Three sections, identical on all sides.
First install the expander ring (C), then the two other rings over the expander ring.
| CAUTION | Make sure that the piston rings are not stuck but can be turned easily. |
Note. Incorrect positioning increases oil consumption.
Scheme 440
There is an arrow on top of the piston. This must be turned forwards in the cylinder block.
The connecting rods are symmetrical and can be turned freely. Marked rods however must be turned in the same direction.
Assemble the connecting rod and piston with the piston pin.
Check that the classification of each cylinder/piston diameter and that any numbering of the connecting rod correspond.
Install both the snap rings on the piston pin. Check that the snap rings are positioned correctly in the piston. The opening must be vertical.
| WARNING | The lock ring can easily fly off. Protect your eyes! |
Wipe clean around the bearing recess in the connecting rod and the cap.
Install the bearing shells.
If new bearing shells are used, these must be checked for color coding.
Note. Bearing shell with a black color marking on the side shall be installed in the connecting rod.
| CAUTION | If reusing bearing shells, they must be installed in the same position as before. Make sure that they are positioned correctly with regards to the crankshaft's rotational direction. |
Installing the pistons in the cylinder bores
Use a cylinder ring compressor.
Lubricate the cylinder bore, the pistons and the bearing shells.
Turn the crankshaft so that the connecting rod pin is at bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder the piston is to be inserted in.
Ensure that the engine is in a position where the cylinder bore forms as vertical a line as possible.
Note. The piston's arrow (on top of the piston) must point forwards, and make sure that the classification matches!
Carefully press or tap the piston down (using the shaft of a hammer or similar).
When the piston releases from the piston ring compressor, turn the engine 180° in the stand.
Install tool 9995746 in the connecting rod.
Pull the connecting rod until it secures against the big end journals.
Installing the oil pump suction pipe
Install a new sealing ring on the suction pipe.
Carefully press the suction pipe down into the intermediate section.
Check that the sealing ring is correctly positioned.
Tighten.
Install new sealing rings for the oil pan oil ducts.
Installing the oil pan
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 on the oil sump. Use roller 9512767 .
The surface must be completely covered without any excess.
Position the pan and install all screws
| CAUTION | Check that the rear edge of the oil pan is in line with the rear edge of the cylinder block. Permissible tolerance 0.025 mm. Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge. |
Tighten the screws from the rear of the pan and forward.
Installing the oil cooler
Install
- new sealing rings in the sump
- the oil cooler. Tighten
- the oil filter.
Installing the rear crankshaft seal
Use standard handle 9991801 and drift 9995676 .
Lubricate the drift face and thread the sealing ring onto the drift.
Tap in the seal until the drift bottoms against the block.
See Engine block, installing components .
Special tools
9512050
9512767
9995450
9995451
9995452
9995454
9995718
9995719
Note. Since the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and/or models. Some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Aligning the crankshaft
Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise (viewed from the rear of the engine) until the piston in cylinder 1 reaches top dead centre (TDC).
Continue turning counter-clockwise until the piston in cylinder 1 is approximately 2-3 cm before top dead centre (BTDC).
Install the crankshaft stop 9995451 . Ensure that it bottoms out against the cylinder block.
Now turn the crankshaft clockwise (viewed from the rear of the engine) until the crankshaft counter-weight is in contact with the crankshaft stop.
Install a new cylinder head gasket .
Install the cylinder head.
Use new screws .
Lubricate and install all the screws.
Tighten the screws in the following order. Tighten the screws alternately from the centre and outwards.
- 20 Nm
- 60 Nm
- Angle-tighten 130° . Use protractor «9512050»(ref-403953-S36645634772011061000000) .
Note. If the valves have been replaced, the valve clearance must be adjusted.
Installing tappets and camshafts
See.
Applying liquid gasket
Wipe the oil film off the mating surfaces on the camshaft cover and cylinder head.
Install new O-rings around the spark plug wells at the cylinder head.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 to the camshaft cover. The surface must be fully covered without any excess. Use roller 9512767
Note. Make sure that no liquid gasket gets in to the oil channels.
Installing the camshaft covers
Lubricate the camshaft lobes, the camshaft bearing surfaces and the tappets.
Install the camshaft cover.
Install 2 press tools 9995454 .
Pull the camshaft cover alternately down, keeping it parallel to the cylinder head with the press tools
Install all the screws and tighten.
Remove the press tools.
Install the spark plugs. Tighten to 30 Nm .
Install the control valve for the variable valve timing unit with a new gasket. Tighten.
Installing the front camshaft seal
Use drift 9995718 on camshafts with VVT units. Use drift 9995719 on camshafts without VVT.
Use new seals. Lubricate the surface of the seal that the camshaft rotates against.
Tap in the seal until the drift bottoms against the end of the camshaft.
Installing the rear camshaft seal
Use drift 9995450 .
Lubricate the surface of the seal that the camshaft rotates against.
Install the seal.
Press in the seal until the drift bottoms out.
Note. If there are wear grooves on the camshaft, the seal can be pressed in another 2 mm by reversing the tool's sleeve.
Securing the camshafts
Use camshaft tool 9995452 .
Note. The camshafts must not be turned more than is listed in the text below. The valves may be damaged!
Screw the adjustment tool sections together into one.
Check that the screws retaining the adjustment tool to the camshafts and the screws holding the tool together are well tightened.
Engine block, installing components
Installing the cylinder head
Install the rear timing cover.
Screw into place at the three mounting points.
Install the water pump with a new gasket .
Apply thread sealant, P/N 11-61 056, to all the screws for the water pump. Tighten crosswise.
Use a new gasket and a new O-ring around the oil pump housing.
Screw sliding sleeve 999 5747 into place at the front of the crankshaft journal.
Press in the pump over the sliding sleeve.
Install new screws as a guide.
Carefully tap in the oil pump with a rubber mallet.
Tighten the oil pump crosswise. Tighten to 10 Nm .
Remove sliding sleeve 999 5747 .
Note. The timing gear pulley can only be in one position at the splines on the crankshaft journal (see the illustration).
Carefully tap in the timing gear pulley with a rubber mallet.
Install the idler pulley. Tighten.
Install the belt tensioner and the centre screw so that the fork on the tensioner is centred over the cylinder block rib. Do not tighten.
Install the lower belt guard at the oil pump.
Install the fuel delivery line.
Checking and adjusting the variable valve timing unit
Check and adjust the variable valve timing unit. See: Variable valve timing unit, checking and adjusting .
Checking the markings and belt tension
Check
Press the toothed belt to check that the indicator on the tensioner moves easily.
Position the upper timing cover.
Turn the crankshaft two turns. Check that the markings on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys match up with the markings on the oil pump and upper timing cover.
Check that the indicator on the belt tensioner is within the marked position.
Ensure that the all components are completely clean.
Blow clean the oil ducts in the block, intermediate section and sump.
Installing the piston cooling valve and nozzles
Install the piston cooling nozzles. Tighten to 17 Nm .
Install the piston cooling valve. Use a new seal washer. Tighten to 38 Nm .
Wipe clean the bearing recesses in the block and the intermediate section.
Check that the components are clean and undamaged.
Check the classification of the block and crankshaft.
The classification marking is at the rear edge of the block and the crankshaft. The classification is read from digit 1 to 7. The first letter after digit 1 is the classification of main bearing 1. The bearing recesses are numbered starting at the front of the engine.
Scheme 441
- Classification cylinder block
- Classification crankshaft
- Cylinder block
- Intermediate section
Install the main bearings in the cylinder block and the intermediate section. See the table.
The axial bearing is positioned at bearing recess 5.
| CAUTION | When reusing old bearing halves, make sure that they are correctly positioned with regards to the crankshaft's rotational direction. |
For example: The marking on the block at bearing recess 1 is B. The marking on the crankshaft at the corresponding bearing recess is C.
Therefore the bearing in the block is marked red and the bearing in the intermediate section is marked yellow.
Note. The thickest of the bearing halves shall always be installed in the intermediate section. This is to keep the center line as straight as possible.
Intermediate part
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 on the intermediate section. The surface must be completely covered without any excess. Use roller 9512767
Thoroughly lube all bearing shells and the thrust bearing surface with oil.
Assemble the connecting rod. Check that the cover is facing the correct direction. Tighten to 20 Nm .
Secure the large end of the connecting rod in a vice with soft jaws (copper or aluminum).
Mark both halves with the cylinder number. Use a center punch or number punch.
Installing piston rings
Use piston ring pliers.
Turn the piston rings so that the openings are offset as illustrated.
A=Compression ring. The text on the piston ring shall face up.
B=Scraper ring. The bevel shall face down.
C=Oil ring. Three parts equilateral.
First install the expander ring (C), then the two upper rings over the expander ring.
| CAUTION | Make sure that the piston rings are not stuck and that they turn easily. |
Note. Incorrect positioning increases oil consumption.
Use a cylinder ring compressor.
Lubricate the cylinder bore, the pistons and the bearing shells.
Turn the crankshaft so that the crank pin is in lower dead center for the cylinder that the piston is to be installed in.
Ensure that the engine is in a position where the cylinder bore forms as vertical a line as possible.
Note. The arrow (top of the piston) must point forwards, and make sure that the classification matches!
Carefully press/tap down the piston (e.g., with the handle of a hammer).
When the piston releases from the piston ring compressor, turn the engine 180° in the stand. Install tool 9995746 in the connecting rod. Tighten the connecting rod until it fixates against the big-end journal.
Install a new sealing ring on the suction pipe.
Carefully press the suction pipe down into the intermediate section.
Check that the sealing ring is correctly positioned.
Tighten.
Install new sealing rings for the oil pan oil ducts.
Wipe the surfaces dry.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 on the oil sump. Use roller 9512767 .
The surface must be completely covered without any excess.
Position the pan and install all screws
| CAUTION | Check that the rear edge of the oil pan is in line with the rear edge of the cylinder block. Permissible tolerance 0.025 mm. Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge. |
Tighten the screws from the rear of the pan and forward.
Installing the oil cooler and oil filter
Install
- new sealing rings in the sump
- the oil cooler. Tighten
- the oil filter.
Use standard handle 9991801 and drift 9995676 .
Lubricate the drift face. Thread the seal onto the drift.
Tap in the seal until the drift bottoms against the block.
Engine block, installing components
Special tools
9512050
9512767
9995450
9995451
9995452
9995454
9995718
9995719
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise (viewed from the rear of the engine) until the piston in cylinder 1 reaches top dead center (TDC).
Continue turning counter-clockwise until the piston in cylinder 1 is approximately 2-3 cm before top dead center (BTDC).
Install the crankshaft stop 9995451 Ensure that it bottoms out against the cylinder block.
Now turn the crankshaft clockwise (viewed from the rear of the engine) until the crankshaft counter-weight is in contact with the crankshaft stop.
Install a new cylinder head gasket .
Install the cylinder head.
Use new screws .
Lubricate and install all the screws.
Tighten the screws in the following order. Tighten the screws alternately from the center and outwards.
- 20 Nm
- 60 Nm
- Angle-tighten 130° . Use protractor «9512050»(ref-403953-S36645634772011061000000) .
Installing valve lifters and camshafts
See.
Wipe the oil film off the mating surfaces on the camshaft cover and cylinder head.
Install new O-rings around the spark plug wells at the cylinder head.
Apply liquid gasket 11 61 059 to the camshaft cover. The surface must be completely covered without any excess. Use roller 9512767
Note. Ensure that no liquid gasket gets in to the oil ducts.
Scheme 442
Lubricate the camshaft lobes, the camshaft bearing surfaces and the valve lifters.
Install the camshaft cover.
Install 2 press tools 9995454 .
Pull the camshaft cover alternately down, keeping it parallel to the cylinder head with the press tools
Install all the screws and tighten.
Remove the press tools.
Install the variable valve timing solenoid with a new gasket. Tighten.
Install the spark plugs. Tighten to 30 Nm .
Scheme 443
Use drift 9995718 on camshafts with variable valve timing units. Use drift 9995719 on camshafts without variable valve timing. Use the drifts together with the mounting screws for the variable valve timing unit and timing gear pulley.
Use new seals. Lubricate the surface of the seal that the camshaft rotates against.
Press in the seals until the drift bottoms out.
Scheme 444
Use drift 9995450 .
Lubricate the surface of the seal that the camshaft rotates against.
Install the seal on the intake camshaft.
Press in the seal until the drift bottoms out.
Note. If there are grooves on the camshaft, the seal can be pressed in a further 2 mm by reversing the sleeve.
Use camshaft adjustment tool 9995452 .
Note. The camshafts must not be turned more than is absolutely necessary to install the adjustment tools. The valves may be damaged!
Screw the adjustment tool sections together into one.
Check that the screws retaining the adjustment tool to the camshafts and the screws holding the tool together are well tightened.
Removing the screwed joint from the intermediate section
First remove the M7 screws from the intermediate section.
Then remove the M8 screws. Start at the outer edges and work alternately towards the centre.
Remove the M10 screws in the same way.
Scheme 445
Carefully pry the intermediate section from the cylinder block so that there is a gap of approximately 6-8 mm.
Then carefully tap off (on the exhaust side) the intermediate section with a rubber mallet.
Lift out the intermediate section. Ensure that the bearing covers for the intermediate section come with it.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. Also not the position of the upper half of the axial bearing for the direction of rotation of the crankshaft. The crankshaft must not now be turned. |
Ensure that the screws for the flywheel and carrier plate, which were installed earlier, are properly tightened. Lift them and the front of the crankshaft.
Carefully lift the crankshaft straight up.
Remove the remaining bearing covers.
Note. The bearing covers for the different bearing seatings are not interchangeable.
Removing the piston cooling valve and nozzles
Remove the piston cooling valve at the front of the engine.
Remove the piston cooling nozzles.
Scheme 446
Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block, intermediate section and oil pan.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and/or gasket solvent ( P/N 116 1440 ).
| WARNING | A fume bonnet or extractor must be used when using gasket solution. |
Dismantling the belt transmission
Special tools
9995304
9995433
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Aligning the engine according to the marking
Install the upper timing belt cover.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley are aligned with the markings on the oil pump and the upper timing belt cover
Remove the upper timing belt cover.
Removing the coolant pump/timing belt cover
Remove the screws.
Carefully tap the pump pulley with a rubber mallet.
Work the pump loose.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the inner timing belt cover.
Scheme 447
Remove the cover over the thermostat (Tx40).
Lift out the thermostat
Remove the hose for the water heated crankcase ventilation.
Remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the fuel pressure line.
Scheme 448
The thermostat can be tested in warm water.
Maximum opening must occur within 2 minutes in water at opening temperature.
| Marking 90°C |
|---|
| Starts to open at 90°C |
| Fully open at 105°C |
Engine body, exposing
Special tools
9989721
9992520
9995112
9995297
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Removing the gearbox
HINT: Remove the lower screws (these are difficult to access) between the gearbox and engine before removing the engine and gearbox unit. The engine and gearbox unit must be placed on a suitable surface.
HINT: Relieve the transmission. Loose the remaining screws and remove the transmission carefully.
Remove the clutch. See Pressure plate / clutch driven plate, replacing .
Scheme 449
Install gear sector 9995112 .
Remove all screws except for the uppermost screw which secures the flywheel to the crankshaft. Slacken off the uppermost screw. Leave it in place, screwed in a few turns.
Carefully work the flywheel and carrier plate loose. If necessary, use 2 groove-cut chisels. Apply these between the cylinder block and the flywheel and carrier plate.
Hold the flywheel and carrier plate and remove the final screw.
Install the engine in a stand
Use mounting stand 9992520 , fixture 9995297 and screw set 9989721 .
Scheme 450
| 1. The heat deflector plate. | 6. The exhaust manifold including the turbocharger (TC). |
|---|---|
| 2. The oil pressure pipe. | 7. The coolant pipe (water pump inlet). |
| 3. The coolant pipes, (turbocharger (TC) inlet / outlet). | 8. The upper and front timing covers and the cover over the ignition coils. |
| 4. The oil return line. | 9. Drain the engine oil. |
| 5. The turbocharger (TC) control hoses and the valve. |
Remove
Scheme 451
| 1. The generator (GEN) and the auxiliary equipment bracket. | 7. The torque rod bracket. |
|---|---|
| 2. The dipstick pipe. | 8. The engine wiring assembly. |
| 3. The fuel rail. | 9. The ignition coils. |
| 4. The pipe screw for the water heated crankcase ventilation. | 10. The camshaft position sensor (CMP) housing and trigger wheel. |
| 5. The crankcase ventilation hose on top of the camshaft cover. | 11. The cover. |
| 6. The intake manifold. |
Remove
Removing the cylinder head
Special tools
9995199
9995452
9995454
9995670
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 452
Install tool 9995452 on the rear edge of the camshafts.
Slacken off the screws securing the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit.
Remove the plug at the front edge of the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Remove the centre screw from the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Carefully pull out the camshaft pulley with the variable valve timing unit.
The following applies to camshafts without variable valve timing
Remove the screws.
Pull off the camshaft pulley.
Remove tool 999 5452
| CAUTION | The camshafts must not be turned when the timing belt has been removed. |
Scheme 453
Remove the control valve from the variable valve timing unit.
Remove the spark plugs from cylinders 1 and 5.
Install 2 tools 9995454 , leaving a 2-3 mm gap to the camshaft cover.
Ensure that the screw in the spark plug well is tightened as far as it will go.
Remove all the screws securing the camshaft cover to the cylinder head
Scheme 454
Remove
- the camshaft cover with pliers «9995670»(ref-403953-S00526374942011061000000) by the snap-in lugs. Start with cylinder 1 and work alternately backward
- the wing nuts approximately 2 turns. Repeat the procedure with the pliers.
Remove
- tool 999 5454
- the camshaft seals at both the front and rear edges
- the camshaft cover
- the camshafts. Work loose and lift at the same time. NOTE: Take care not to damage the axial bearings.
Scheme 455
Remove the pipe screw for the water heated crankcase ventilation at the rear edge of the cylinder head.
Slacken off the screwed joint for the cylinder head. Start at the sides and work alternately towards the center.
Lift out the cylinder head.
Note. Take care not to damage the mating surfaces.
Preparation
Remove
- the oil trap.
- the knock sensors (KS).
- the front engine mounting.
- the oil pressure switch.
Remove
- the bearing retainer for the right drive shaft.
- the oil cooler and the rubber seals.
Removing the oil filter/oil pan
Remove the oil filter. Use tool 9995679 .
Remove the screws securing the oil pan to the intermediate section.
Carefully tap the side of the oil pan with a rubber mallet.
Lift out the oil pan.
Removing the oil pump suction pipe
Remove the O-rings from the oil ducts.
Remove the screws securing the suction pipe to the intermediate section.
Work loose/lift out the suction pipe.
Remove the suction pipe O-ring.
Check the pipe and the strainer.
Checking markings
Install the two old screws for the flywheel / carrier plate at the rear edge of the crankshaft.
Turn the crankshaft so the piston in cylinder 1 is at bottom dead center (BDC).
Check that there are markings on the cap and connecting rods and check which way the markings are positioned (exhaust / intake side). Make a note of this.
If necessary mark with a center punch or a number punch, see Marking the connecting rod (where applicable) .
Removing the pistons from the cylinder block
Remove the screws for the connecting rod cover.
Lift out the cover. Check that the bearing cover comes with it.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. |
Install tool
Hold by hand so that the piston does not fall to the floor and ensure that the bearing cover comes with it.
Place the piston and connecting rod in such a way that they can be reinstalled in the correct cylinder.
Continue with cylinders 2, 3, 4 and 5 as above.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. |
First remove the M7 screws from the intermediate section.
Then remove the M8 screws. Start at the outer edges and work alternately towards the center.
Remove the M10 screws in the same way.
Separating the intermediate section from the cylinder block
Carefully pry the intermediate section from the cylinder block so that there is a gap of approximately 6-8 mm (0.2-0.3 in).
Then carefully tap off (on the exhaust side) the intermediate section with a rubber mallet.
Lift out the intermediate section. Check that the intermediate section bearing covers comes with it.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. The crankshaft must not now be turned. |
Ensure that the screws for the flywheel / carrier plate, which were installed earlier, are properly tightened. Lift them and the front of the crankshaft.
Carefully lift the crankshaft straight up.
Remove the remaining bearing covers.
Note. The bearing covers for the different bearing positions are not interchangeable.
Scheme 456
Remove the screws holding the covers.
Lift out the covers.
Remove the gaskets.
Pull out the nozzles for piston cooling.
Clean the gasket surfaces on the covers and cylinder block.
Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block, intermediate section and oil pan.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and/or gasket solvent ( P/N 116 1440 .
| WARNING | A fume hood or extractor must be used when using gasket solution. |
Dismantling the belt drive
Special tools
9995304
9995433
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Install the upper timing belt cover.
Turn crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley are aligned with the markings on the oil pump and the upper timing belt cover
Remove the upper timing belt cover.
Removing the timing belt
Engines without variable valve timing
Slacken off the belt tensioner center screw slightly.
Turn the eccentric on the belt tensioner clockwise with a 6 mm (0.2 in) Allen key to "10 o'clock".
Remove the timing belt.
Engines with variable valve timing
Turn the variable valve timing unit clockwise so that the timing belt is unloaded. Use a Tx55 torx wrench and install the variable valve timing unit center plug.
Remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys.
Carefully allow the variable valve timing to rotate back in to place.
Remove the timing belt.
Removing the crankshaft pulley
Use puller 9995304 and two M8 x 45 mm (1.8 in) screws with washers.
Pull off the timing gear pulley.
Removing the belt tensioner and idler pulley
Remove the belt tensioner and idler pulley.
Check the rolling surface and the bearings.
Check for any noise. Check for any play in the bearings.
Check that the rolling surfaces are smooth and clean.
Removing oil pump
Remove the belt protection from the oil pump.
Remove the four oil pump screws.
Carefully work the oil pump out. Use a groove-cut chisel with stop lugs.
Carefully draw the oil pump past the end of the oil pump.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Checking the oil pump
Disassemble the oil pump.
Clean and check all components.
Check for damage and wear.
In particular check the half-moon shaped insert (the surface between the suction and pressure sides).
Replace the oil pump in the event of a fault.
Assemble the oil pump.
Removing the coolant pump / timing belt cover
Remove the screws.
Carefully tap the pump pulley with a rubber mallet.
Work the pump loose.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the inner timing belt cover.
Removing the thermostat / thermostat housing
Remove the cover over the thermostat (Tx40).
Lift out the thermostat
Remove the hose for the water heated crankcase ventilation.
Remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the fuel pressure line.
Checking the opening function of the thermostat
The thermostat can be tested in warm water.
Maximum opening must happen within 2 minutes in water at opening temperature.
| Marking 90°C |
|---|
| Begins to open at 90°C |
| Fully open at 105°C |
Engine body, exposing
Special tools
9995199
9995452
9995454
9995670
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Removing the camshaft pulleys
Engines without variable valve timing
Mark up the camshaft pulleys (both exhaust and intake).
Remove the screws securing the camshaft pulleys to the camshafts. Use counterhold 9995199 .
| CAUTION | The camshafts must not be turned when the timing belt has been removed. |
Engines with variable valve timing
Install tool 9995452 at the rear edge of the camshafts.
Remove the plug at the front edge of the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Remove the center screw from the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Carefully pull out the camshaft pulley with the variable valve timing unit.
The following applies to camshafts without variable valve timing
Remove the screws.
Pull off the camshaft pulley.
Remove tool 999 5452
| CAUTION | The camshafts must not be turned when the timing belt has been removed. |
Removing the camshaft cover
Remove the variable valve timing unit control valve.
Remove the spark plugs from cylinders 1 and 5.
Install tool 9995454 (x2) with 2-3 mm (0.08 - 0.1 in) clearance to the camshaft cover.
Ensure that the screw in the spark plug well is tightened as far as it will go.
Remove all the screws securing the camshaft cover to the cylinder head
Slacken off
- the camshaft cover with pliers «9995670»(ref-403953-S00526374942011061000000) at the stop lugs. Start with cylinder 1 and work alternately backward.
- the wing nuts approximately 2 turns. Repeat the procedure with the pliers.
Remove
- tool 999 5454.
- the camshaft seals at both the front and rear edges.
- the camshaft cover.
- the camshafts. Work loose and lift at the same time. NOTE: Take care not to damage the axial bearings.
Remove the pipe screw for the water heated crankcase ventilation at the rear edge of the cylinder head.
Slacken off the cylinder head screwed joint. Start at the sides and work alternately towards the center.
Lift out the cylinder head.
Note. Take care not to damage the mating surfaces.
Dismantling the belt transmission
Engine body, exposing
Removing the cylinder head
Removing the oil filter and oil pan
Remove the oil filter. Use tool: 9995679 .
Remove the screws securing the oil pan to the intermediate section.
Carefully tap the side of the oil pan with a rubber mallet.
Lift out the oil pan.
Removing the suction pipe from the oil pump
Remove the O-rings from the oil ducts.
Remove the screws securing the suction pipe to the intermediate section.
Work loose and lift out the suction pipe.
Remove the suction pipe O-ring.
Check the pipe and the strainer.
Install the two old screws for the flywheel and carrier plate at the rear edge of the crankshaft.
Turn the crankshaft so the piston in cylinder 1 is at bottom dead centre (BDC).
Check that there are markings on the cap and connecting rods. Check which way the markings are positioned (exhaust and intake side). Make a note of this.
If necessary mark with a centre punch or a number punch. See Marking the connecting rod (where applicable) .
New connecting rod
A new connecting rod has been introduced for engine B5244S/S2.
The mating surface between the cap and the connecting rod is not machined. It is aligned through a dedicated fracture surface.
| CAUTION | If the cap is turned the wrong way and tightened, the structure of the fracture surface will be damaged and the connecting rod must then be discarded. |
Note. Blow the fracture surface clean with compressed air before reinstalling the cap.
Remove the screws for the connecting rod cover.
Lift off the cover. Ensure that the bearing cover comes with it.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. Also note the position of the bearing covers for the rotation of the crankshaft. |
Install tool
Hold by hand so that the piston does not fall to the floor. Ensure that the bearing cover comes with it.
Place the piston and connecting rod in such a way that they can be reinstalled in the correct cylinder.
Continue with cylinders 2, 3, 4 and 5 as above.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. Also note the position of the bearing covers for the rotation of the crankshaft. |
First remove the M7 screws from the intermediate section.
Then remove the M8 screws. Start at the outer edges and work alternately towards the centre.
Remove the M10 screws in the same way.
Carefully pry the intermediate section from the cylinder block so that there is a gap of approximately 6-8 mm.
Then carefully tap off (on the exhaust side) the intermediate section with a rubber mallet.
Lift out the intermediate section. Ensure that the bearing covers for the intermediate section come with it.
| CAUTION | The bearing covers are not interchangeable. Also not the position of the upper half of the axial bearing for the direction of rotation of the crankshaft. The crankshaft must not now be turned. |
Ensure that the screws for the flywheel and carrier plate, which were installed earlier, are properly tightened. Lift them and the front of the crankshaft.
Carefully lift the crankshaft straight up.
Remove the remaining bearing covers.
Note. The bearing covers for the different bearing seatings are not interchangeable.
Remove the piston cooling valve at the front of the engine.
Remove the piston cooling nozzles.
Clean the gasket surfaces on the cylinder block, intermediate section and oil pan.
Use a razor blade or a gasket scraper and / or gasket solvent ( P/N 116 1440 ).
| WARNING | A fume bonnet or extractor must be used when using gasket solution. |
Special tools
9995304
9995433
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 457
Install the upper timing belt cover.
Turn crankshaft clockwise until the markings on the crankshaft belt pulley and the timing belt pulley are aligned with the markings on the oil pump and the upper timing belt cover
Remove the upper timing belt cover.
There are two variants of the belt tensioner.
Up to engine number 3188688 the eccentric must be turned clockwise when loosening.
From engine number 3188689 the eccentric must be turned anticlockwise to loosen the belt tension.
Slacken off the centre screw for the belt tensioner slightly.
Hold the center screw in position and, depending on the model, turn the eccentric on the tensioner to 10 o'clock (clockwise) or 2 o'clock (anticlockwise) using a 6 mm allen key.
Remove the timing belt from the timing gear pulley for the camshafts.
Remove the timing belt.
Use puller 9995304 and two screws (M8 x 45 mm) with washers.
Pull off the timing gear pulley.
| CAUTION | The crankshaft must not rotate! |
Remove the belt tensioner and idler pulley.
Check the rolling surface and the bearings.
Check for any noise. Check for any play in the bearings.
Check that the rolling surfaces are smooth and clean.
Remove the belt protection from the oil pump.
Remove the four oil pump screws.
Carefully work the oil pump out. Use a groove-cut chisel with stop lugs.
Carefully draw the oil pump past the end of the crankshaft.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Disassemble the oil pump.
Clean and check all components.
Check for damage and wear.
Replace the oil pump in the event of a fault.
Assemble the oil pump. Tighten to 6 Nm .
Remove the screws.
Carefully tap the pump pulley with a rubber mallet.
Work the pump loose.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the inner timing belt cover.
Remove the cover over the thermostat (Tx40).
Lift out the thermostat
Remove the hose for the water heated crankcase ventilation.
Remove the thermostat housing from the cylinder head.
Carefully clean the gasket face and mating surfaces.
Remove the fuel pressure line.
The thermostat can be tested in warm water.
Maximum opening must happen within 2 minutes in water at opening temperature.
| Marking 90°C |
|---|
| Starts to open at 90°C |
| Fully open at 105°C |
Exposing the engine body
Special tools
9989721
9992520
9995112
9995297
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Removing the transmission
HINT: Remove the lower screws (these are difficult to access) between the transmission and engine before removing the engine/transmission unit. The engine/transmission unit must be placed on a suitable surface.
HINT: Take the weight off the transmission. Remove the remaining screws and carefully remove the transmission.
Remove the clutch. See Pressure plate/clutch driven plate, replacing .
Removing the flywheel/carrier plate
Remove the flywheel sensor.
Install gear sector 9995112 .
Remove all screws except for the uppermost screw which secures the flywheel to the crankshaft. Slacken off the uppermost screw. Leave it in place, screwed in a few turns.
Carefully work the flywheel/carrier plate loose. If necessary, use 2 groove-cut chisels. Apply these between the cylinder block and the flywheel/carrier plate.
Hold the flywheel/carrier plate and remove the final screw.
Install the engine in a stand
Use mounting stand 9992520 , fixture 9995297 and screw set 9989721 .
Scheme 458
| 1. Heat deflector plate and manifold. | 3. The upper and front timing covers and the cover over the ignition coils |
|---|---|
| 2. Coolant intake pipe. | 4. Drain the engine oil. |
Remove
Scheme 459
| 1. The generator (GEN) and the auxiliary equipment bracket. | 7. The torque rod bracket. |
|---|---|
| 2. The dipstick pipe. | 8. Engine wiring assembly |
| 3. Crankcase ventilation hose. | 9. The ignition coils. |
| 4. Vacuum hose (crankcase ventilation). | 10. The camshaft position sensor (CMP) housing and trigger wheel. |
| 5. The fuel rail. | 11. The cover. |
| 6. The intake manifold. |
Remove
Special tools
9995199
9995452
9995454
9995670
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 460
Install tool 9995452 at the rear of the camshafts.
Slacken off the screws securing the timing gear pulley to the variable valve timing unit.
Remove the plug at the front edge of the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Remove the center screw from the variable valve timing unit (Tx 55).
Carefully pull out the camshaft pulley with the variable valve timing unit.
The following applies to camshafts without variable valve timing
Remove the screws.
Pull off the camshaft pulley.
Remove tool 999 5452
| CAUTION | The camshafts must not be turned when the timing belt has been removed. |
Remove the variable valve timing unit control valve.
Remove the spark plugs from cylinders 1 and 5.
Install 2 tools 9995454 . Leave a 2-3 mm gap to the camshaft cover.
Ensure that the screw in the spark plug well is tightened as far as it will go.
Remove all the screws securing the camshaft cover to the cylinder head
Slacken off
- camshaft cover with pliers «9995670»(ref-403953-S00526374942011061000000) at the stop lugs. Start with cylinder 1 and work alternately backward.
- the wing nuts approximately 2 turns. Repeat the procedure with the pliers.
Remove
- tool 999 5454.
- the camshaft seals at both the front and rear edges.
- the camshaft cover.
- the camshafts. Work loose and lift at the same time. NOTE: Take care not to damage the axial bearings.
Remove the pipe screw for the water heated crankcase ventilation at the rear edge of the cylinder head.
Slacken off the cylinder head screwed joint. Start at the sides and work alternately towards the center.
Lift out the cylinder head.
Note. Take care not to damage the mating surfaces.
Threads
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 461
Damaged threads can in most cases be reconditioned using HELICOIL thread inserts.
Thread inserts are available in a variety of sizes, pitches and lengths. A correctly reconditioned thread will generally increase the strength of a joint.
Scheme 462
Measure the old threads and thread length in the hole.
A: Thread.
B: Thread length.
Scheme 463
Drill out the old threads using the correct diameter drill bit. Blow the hole clean.
Tap the new thread using the correct tap.
Note. The thread taps referred to in the text are specially made for use with the HELI-COIL system.
Use methylated spirit or similar to lubricate the threading operation in aluminium. Thread longer threads in stages, backing out the tap and blowing the tap and the hole clean in between.
Thread the hole to the proper depth (or through if it is to be threaded throughout).
C: drill depth.
D: cutting phase.
Scheme 464
The installation tool (illustrated) is used for threads M6 - M14 . During some operations the tool must be disassembled by removing the locking ring, for example with countersunk threads.
For threads M16 and larger the specific tool for each thread size must be used The guide and mandrel are included.
Scheme 465
Locate the thread insert with the tang facing down in the tool.
Turn the spindle until the tang engages in the recess.
Screw the thread insert into the guide, do not apply pressure, until the first turn of the thread insert is flush with the guide opening.
A: Tang.
B: Guide.
C: Mandrel.
Scheme 466
Hold the installation tool straight above and centred over the hole. Screw in the insert without applying pressure on the spindle handle. Screw in until the end of the insert reaches at least half a thread revolution into the thread.
The insert must not touch the bottom of the hole or stick out of the other side if it is a through hole.
Break off the tang with the proper tang breaker. For M14 threads and coarser, use a pair of flat-nosed pliers or similar and break downwards.
Scheme 467
Alternative 1
File a notch in the thread insert, about a quarter turn in from the end. Do not file through the insert.
Note. Do not damage the thread in the material.
Use a triangular scraper or similar to extract the insert by rotating it.
Alternative 2
Carefully expose the end of the thread insert. Use flat-nose pliers to pull the thread insert out.
Clean out the threads in the hole using the thread tap and blow clean.
Install a new thread insert.
Reconditioning sparkplug threads
Note. Reconditioning of spark plug threads must be carried out with removed cylinder head.
Scheme 468
Use combination tap 998 5823-5 and thread repair inserts for spark plug thread M14x1.25 .
Note. Do not drill out spark plug threads.
Combined tap
A: Tap.
B: Reamer.
C: Steering.
Scheme 469
There are times when the cap nut cannot be used because of space restrictions. On these occasions the guide should be taped into place.
Note. As the thread insert for the spark plug thread is thinner (finer) than usual it is extra important to not pressure on the pin when inserting the thread insert (both in the nozzle and the material).
Twist the thread insert down and check that the upper thread is at least a half thread down into the thread and that none of the insert protrudes into the combustion chamber.
If the insert has been screwed in too far it must be turned until it is all the way through. If it is not deformed it can be inserted again.
Break off the tang with a pair of flat nose pliers. Check the thread. Install a spark plug.
Thread table
| Values in mm | ||
|---|---|---|
| Thread dimension | Drill - diameter | Examples of areas of use |
| M6x1 | 6.3 | Oil pump |
| M7x1 | 7.3 | Sump to cylinder block, Intermediate section to cylinder block, Water pump to cylinder block |
| M8x1.25 | 8.4 | Studs at the exhaust ports |
| M10x1.5 | 10.5 | Intermediate section to cylinder block, Gearbox to engine |
| M12x1.5 | 12.5 | |
| M14x1.25 | Spark plugs | |
| M14x1.5 | 14.2 | Oil pressure switch. Oil pressure outlet engine/turbocharger unit. |
| M18x1.5 | 18.5 | Oil drain plug in the sump. |
Threads which must not be reconditioned
Coolant outlet for the drain nipple, heat exchanger/oil cooler.
Plug hole for crankshaft setting.
Screw holes for cylinder head screws.
Measuring the cylinder bore
As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 470
First clean the cylinder bores and check them visually.
Measure the cylinder bores. Use a bore gauge (50-100-mm), a micrometer and a micrometer stand.
Set the micrometer to maximum cylinder bore diameter tolerance using the marking on the cylinder block.
Calibrate the bore gauge in the micrometer.
Scheme 471
Take measurements for the greatest amount of wear across the engine, just before the upper limit position.
Take measurements for the lowest amount of wear along the length of the engine, at the lower limit position.
Scheme 472
Each cylinder is stamped with a classification letter (C, D or E) at the rear edge of the cylinder block.
Cylinder bore diameter: See Cylinder bore diameter
Measuring and reconditioning the cylinder head
Special tools
9986052
9995219
9995222
9995379
9995748
9995764
Note. The illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models. Therefore there may be some variation. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 473
Use a magnet or suction cup to remove the valve lifters.
Check for wear on the valve lifters. Measure if necessary.
Note. Valve lifters must be stored upside down to prevent draining. Place the valve lifters in order. They must not be mixed up. Store valve lifters in an oil filled container when storing for long periods.
Valve lifters, dimensions: See Tappets .
Clearance, top of valve lifters: See Tappets .
Scheme 474
Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Remove
- the valve locks
- the upper valve collars
- the valve springs
- the valves.
Note. Keep track of the position of the moving parts.
Scheme 475
Use tool 9995219 .
Remove the valve stem seals and the lower valve collars.
Clean the cylinder head
- the gasket faces
- the combustion chambers
- the inlet and exhaust ports
- the valve seats.
Scheme 476
Clean the spark plug threads (tap M14 x 1.25).
Clean the valves, valve springs and collars.
Visually check for damage.
Regrind the seats if unsure about cracks. See Valve seats .
Checking the cylinder head for distortion
Measure cylinder head distortion Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge. See Cylinder head .
Scheme 477
Measure the wear in the valve guides. Use a dial indicator and magnetic holder. Lift the valve approximately 2-3 mm from the seat when carrying out the check.
Clearance between the valve and valve guide: See Valve guides .
Scheme 478
Use camshaft adjustment tool 9995222 .
Position the camshaft adjustment tool in the camshaft bearing recesses.
Measure the height of the valve stem using a feeler gauge through the hole in the camshaft adjustment tool. See Valves .
Note. The valve stems must be at the correct height for the hydraulic valve lifters to operate correctly.
Scheme 479
Lubricate the valve stems and the upper ends of the valve guides.
Install
- the lower valve spring collars
- the valves in their positions.
Install the protective sleeve (included in the gasket kit) on the valve stem.
Note. The protective sleeve must be installed on the valve stem when the valve stem seal is installed.
Lubricate the protective sleeve (1) and install it on the valve stem.
Scheme 480
Lubricate the valve stem seal (2).
Press down the seal past the protective sleeve with your finger.
Press the seal down. Use tool 9995764 . Press down by hand until the tool stops against the lower valve spring washer.
Remove the tool. Pull off the protective socket.
Scheme 481
Install the valve spring. Install the valve spring washer.
Compress the valve spring so that the three valve lock tracks are visible. Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Note. Do not compress more than is absolutely necessary. The valve stem seal may be damaged.
Install the valve locks.
Check that valve locks are in the correct position when the spring is not loaded.
Repeat the procedure with the remaining valves.
Checking the connecting rod in a connecting rod aligner
Check for out-of-true and twisting.
| CAUTION | Check that the aligner fork is unburred and round at the handle. Remove and apply the expander at the big end between each alignment operation. |
Sealing micro-enclosed screws
Note. Micro-enclosed screws are used where the seal requirements are high. Loose screws are replaced or sealed with new sealing compound. Sealant "HYDRAULIC THREADSEAL" has P/N 11 61 056-5 and sealing must be carried out according to the instructions on the packet. The screws to be sealed with "HYDRAULIC THREAD SEAL" and their positions are shown below.
Note. As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 482
"Hydraulic thread sealant"
- P/N 11 61 056-5
- Use a brush and/or the packet spout to apply the sealant to the screw.
- Avoid skin contact with the sealant.
Scheme 483
| Location | Designation | Number | P/N |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Auxiliary equipment bracket screw | 1 | 946671-5 |
| B | Air conditioning (A/C) stay screw (for cars with air conditioning (A/C)) | 1 | 965180-3 |
| B | Intake manifold stay screw (cars without AC) | 1 | 946173-2 |
| C | Starter motor mounting screw | 1 | 946173-2 |
| D | Engine mounting screw | 1 | 946470-2 |
Scheme 484
| Location | Designation | Number | P/N |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Coolant manifold screw (M7 X 20) with flange height 7mm including gasket | 2 | 975880-6 |
| A | Coolant manifold screw (M7 X 25) with flange height 9mm including gasket | 2 | 979090-8 |
| B | Plug water pump housing | 1 | 968144-6 |
| C | Drain cock | 1 | 9135268-2 |
Scheme 485
| Location | Designation | Number | P/N |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Nipple | 1 | 976040-6 |
Scheme 486
| Location | Designation | Number | P/N |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Coolant pump screw | 7 | 977744-2 |
As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
First clean the cylinder bores and check them visually.
Measure the cylinder bores. Use a bore gauge (50-100-mm), a micrometer and a micrometer stand.
Set the micrometer to maximum cylinder bore diameter tolerance using the marking on the cylinder block.
Calibrate the bore gauge in the micrometer.
Checking for wear
Take measurements for the greatest amount of wear across the engine, just before the upper limit position.
Take measurements for the lowest amount of wear along the length of the engine, at the lower limit position.
Classification marking
Each cylinder is stamped with a classification letter (C, D or E) on the top of the cylinder block.
Cylinder bore diameter: See Cylinder block
Special tools
9986052
9995219
9995222
9995379
9995748
9995764
Note. The illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models. Therefore there may be some variation. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Scheme 487
Lift out the valve lifters. Mark up the valve lifters so that the original positions can be established.
Use a suction cup to remove the valve lifters.
Check for wear on the valve lifters. Measure if necessary.
Valve lifters, dimensions: See Tappets .
Removing valves
Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Remove
- the valve locks
- the upper valve collars
- the valve springs
- the valves.
Note. Keep track of the position of the moving parts.
Removing valve stem seals
Use tool 9995219 .
Remove the valve stem seals and the lower valve collars.
Clean the cylinder head
- the gasket faces
- the combustion chambers
- the inlet and exhaust ports
- the valve seats.
Checking the cylinder head
Clean the spark plug threads (tap M14 x 1.25).
Clean the valves, valve springs and collars.
Visually check for damage.
Regrind the seats if unsure about cracks. See Valve seats .
Checking the cylinder head for distortion
Measure cylinder head distortion Use a steel ruler and feeler gauge. See Cylinder head .
Checking for wear in the valve guides
Measure the wear in the valve guides. Use a dial indicator and magnetic holder. Lift the valve approximately 2-3 mm from the seat when carrying out the check.
Clearance between the valve and valve guide: See Valve guides .
Checking the vertical position of the valve stem
Use camshaft adjustment tool 9995222 .
Position the camshaft adjustment tool in the camshaft bearing recesses.
Measure the height of the valve stem using a feeler gauge through the hole in the camshaft adjustment tool. See Valves .
Installing valve stem seals
Lubricate the valve stems and the upper ends of the valve guides.
Install
- the lower valve spring collars
- the valves in their positions.
Install the protective sleeve (included in the gasket kit) on the valve stem.
Note. The protective sleeve must be installed on the valve stem when the valve stem seal is installed.
Lubricate the protective sleeve (1) and install it on the valve stem.
Lubricate the valve stem seal (2).
Press down the seal past the protective sleeve with your finger.
Press the seal down. Use tool 9995764 . Press down by hand until the tool stops against the lower valve spring washer.
Remove the tool. Pull off the protective socket.
Installing valve springs
Install the valve spring. Install the valve spring washer.
Compress the valve spring so that the three valve lock tracks are visible. Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Note. Do not compress more than is absolutely necessary. The valve stem seal may be damaged.
Install the valve locks.
Check that valve locks are in the correct position when the spring is not loaded.
Repeat the procedure with the remaining valves.
Measuring the crankshaft
Use a micrometer.
Measure the out-of-round and taper of the bearing journal. Measure at a number of points laterally and longitudinally.
For the correct values for the connecting rod bearing journals and main bearing journals, see Crank mechanism .
Check the out-of-true of the crankshaft
Use a dial indicator and magnetic holder.
Position the crankshaft with the two outer main bearings in the V block.
Turn the crankshaft and measure the radial runout on the other main bearing journals.
For the correct values, see Crank mechanism .
Removing the piston rings
Use piston ring pliers.
Remove coke deposits. Scrape the piston ring grooves clean with a groove cleaner or a broken and filed piston ring.
Check for damage, wear and cracks.
Checking the axial clearance of the piston rings
Use new piston rings.
For the correct values, see Pistons .
Scheme 488
Use a micrometer and Vernier caliper.
For the correct values, see Pistons .
Calculating the running clearance of the piston
For the correct values, see Pistons .
A new connecting rod has been introduced for engine B5244S/S2.
The mating surface between the cap and the connecting rod is not machined. It is aligned through a dedicated fracture surface.
| CAUTION | If the cap is turned the wrong way and tightened, the structure of the fracture surface will be damaged and the connecting rod must then be discarded. |
Note. Blow the fracture surface clean with compressed air before reinstalling the cap.
Scheme 489
Visually check the bearing shells.
If in doubt measure out-of-round.
Use a bore gauge.
For the correct diameter of the bearing recess, see Crank mechanism .
Check for out-of-true and twisting.
| CAUTION | Check that the aligner fork is unburred and round at the handle. Remove and apply the expander at the big end between each alignment operation. |
Sealing micro-enclosed screws
As the illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models, some variation may occur. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
First clean the cylinder bores and check them visually.
Measure the cylinder bores. Use a bore gauge (50-100 mm), a micrometer and a micrometer stand.
Set the micrometer to maximum cylinder bore diameter tolerance using the marking on the cylinder block.
Calibrate the bore gauge in the micrometer.
Take measurements for the greatest amount of wear across the engine, just before the upper limit position.
Take measurements for the lowest amount of wear along the length of the engine, at the lower limit position.
Each cylinder is stamped with a classification letter (C, D or E) at the rear edge of the cylinder block.
Cylinder bore diameter: See Specifications, mechanical .
Special tools
9986052
9995219
9995222
9995379
9995748
9995764
Note. The illustrations in this service information are used for different model years and / or models. Therefore there may be some variation. However, the essential information in the illustrations is always correct.
Removing tappets
Lift out the tappets. Mark up the tappets so that the original positions can be established.
Use a suction cup to remove the tappets.
Check for wear on the tappets. Measure if necessary.
Tappets, dimensions: See Tappets .
Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Remove
- the valve locks
- the upper valve collars
- the valve springs
- the valves.
Note. Keep track of the position of the moving parts.
Use tool 9995219 .
Remove the valve stem seals and the lower valve collars.
Clean the cylinder head
- the gasket faces
- the combustion chambers
- the inlet and exhaust ports
- the valve seats.
Clean the spark plug threads (tap M14 x 1.25).
Clean the valves, valve springs and collars.
Visually check for damage.
Regrind the seats if unsure about cracks. See Valve seats .
Checking the cylinder head for distortion
Check the flatness of the cylinder head. Use a steel rule and feeler gauges. See Cylinder head .
Measure the wear in the valve guides. Use a dial indicator and magnetic holder. Lift the valve approximately 2-3 mm from the seat when carrying out the check.
Play between the valve and valve guide: See Valve guides .
Checking the height of the valve stems
Use camshaft adjustment tool 9995222 .
Position the camshaft adjustment tool in the camshaft bearing recesses.
Measure the height of the valve stem using Vernier calipers through the hole in camshaft adjustment tool. See Valves .
Lubricate the valve stems and the upper ends of the valve guides.
Install
- the lower valve spring collars
- the valves in their positions.
Install the protective sleeve (included in the gasket kit) on the valve stem.
Note. The protective sleeve must be installed on the valve stem when the valve stem seal is installed.
Lubricate the protective sleeve (1) and install it on the valve stem.
Lubricate the valve stem seal (2).
Press down the seal past the protective sleeve with your finger.
Press the seal down. Use tool 9995764 . Press with manual force until the tool stops against the lower valve spring washer.
Remove the tool. Pull off the protective socket.
Install the valve spring. Install the valve spring washer.
Compress the valve spring so that the three valve lock tracks are visible. Use valve spring compressor 9986052 with attachment claw 9995748 .
Note. Do not compress more than is absolutely necessary. The valve stem seal may be damaged.
Install the valve locks.
Check that valve locks are in the correct position when the spring is not loaded.
Repeat the procedure with the remaining valves.
Use a micrometer.
Measure the out-of-round and taper of the bearing journal. Measure at a number of points laterally and longitudinally.
For the correct values for the connecting rod bearing journals and main bearing journals, see Crank mechanism .
Use a dial indicator and magnetic holder.
Position the crankshaft with the two outer main bearings in the V block.
Turn the crankshaft and measure the radial runout on the other main bearing journals.
For the correct values, see Crank mechanism .
Use piston ring pliers.
Remove coke deposits. Scrape the piston ring grooves clean with a groove cleaner or a broken and filed piston ring.
Check for damage, wear and cracks.
Checking piston ring axial clearance
Use new piston rings.
For the correct values, see Pistons (engine capacities) .
Scheme 490
Use a micrometer and vernier calliper.
For the correct values, see Pistons (engine capacities) .
For the correct values, see Pistons (engine capacities) .
A new connecting rod has been introduced on certain engines.
The mating surface between the cap and the connecting rod is not machined. It is aligned through a dedicated fracture surface.
| CAUTION | If the cap is turned the wrong way and tightened, the structure of the fracture surface will be damaged and the connecting rod must then be discarded. |
Note. Blow the fracture surface clean with compressed air before reinstalling the cap.
Checking the bearing recess in the connecting rod big end
Visually check the bearing shells.
If in doubt measure out-of-round. Use a bore gauge.
For the correct diameter of the bearing recess, see Crank mechanism .
Check for out-of-true and twisting.
| CAUTION | Check that the aligner fork is unburred and round at the handle. Remove and apply the expander at the big end between each alignment operation. |
Sealing micro-enclosed screws
Cylinder block, measurement
Cylinder block, measurement
Measuring and reconditioning the cylinder head
Sealing micro-enclosed screws