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2.0L Engine - Service Information: Diagnosis Jeep Compass I

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CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE TEST

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

  1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
  2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
  3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
WARNINGDo not remove the pressure cap with the system hot and under pressure because serious burns from coolant can occur.
  1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the pressure cap.
  2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
  3. Clean spark plug recesses with compressed air.
  4. Remove the spark plugs.
  5. Remove the oil filler cap.
  6. Remove the air cleaner.
  7. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum, with 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
  8. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the coolant.
  9. All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage per cylinder.
  10. FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

  1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
  2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through the gears several times briskly.
  3. Remove engine cover.
  4. Disconnect coil electrical connectors and remove coils.
  5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
  6. Disconnect injector electrical connectors.
  7. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
  8. Insert compression pressure adaptor 8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in cylinder head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer CH7059 with cable adaptors to the DRBIII®. For Special Tool identification, see «SPECIAL TOOLS»(ref-304329-S19569091372008110700000) .
  9. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder pressure.
  10. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
  11. Compression should not be less than 1034 kPa (150 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
  12. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
  13. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question. The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSESCORRECTION
VALVETRAIN NOISE1. High or low oil level in crankcase.1. Check and correct engine oil level.
2. Thin or diluted oil.2. Change oil to correct viscosity.
3. Thick oil3. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
4. Low oil pressure.4. (a) Check and correct engine oil level.
(b) Check pressure regulating valve.
5. Worn cam lobe.5. Install new camshaft.
6. Worn tappet bucket.6. Install new select fit tappet bucket.
7. Worn valve guides.7. Replace cylinder head.
8. Excessive runout of valve seats on valve faces.8. Grind valve seats and replace valves.
CONNECTING ROD NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply.1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure.2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil.3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance.5. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Connecting rod journal out-of-round.6. Replace crankshaft or grind surface.
7. Connecting rod out-of-round.7. Replace connecting rod.
8. Misaligned connecting rods.8. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply.1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure.2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve and spring.
3. Thin or diluted oil.3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
4. Thick oil4. (a) Change engine oil and filter.
(b) Run engine to operating temperature.
(c) Change engine oil and filter again.
5. Excessive bearing clearance.5. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary.
6. Excessive end play.6. Check thrust bearing for wear on flanges.
7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round or worn.7. Replace crankshaft or grind journals.
8. Loose flywheel or torque converter.8. Tighten to correct torque.
OIL PRESSURE DROP1. Low oil level.1. Check engine oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit.2. Install new sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure.3. Check sending unit and main bearing oil clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter.4. Install new oil filter.
5. Worn parts in oil pump.5. Replace balance shaft module.
6. Thin or diluted oil.6. Change oil to correct viscosity.
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck.7. Remove valve and inspect, clean, or replace.
8. Excessive bearing clearance.8. Measure bearings for correct clearance.
OIL LEAKS1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets.1. Replace gasket(s).
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous metal part.2. Tighten, repair or replace the part.
3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or threaded plug.3. Replace as necessary.
OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK PLUGS FOULED1. PCV system malfunction.1. Check system and repair as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings.2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings.
3. Carbon in oil ring slots.3. Install new rings.
4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves.4. Remove rings and check grooves. If groove is not proper width, replace piston.
5. Worn valve guide(s).5. Replace cylinder head.
6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or damaged.6. Replace seal(s).

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START1. Weak battery.1. Test battery. Charge or replace as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
2. Corroded or loose battery connections.2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter.3. Test starting system. Check for codes. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit.4. Test and replace as needed. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap.5. Set gap. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
6. Contamination in fuel system.6. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump.7. Test fuel pump and replace as needed. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing.8. Check for a skipped timing belt/chain.
ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES ROUGH1. Idle speed too low.1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
2. Incorrect fuel mixture.2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
3. Intake manifold leakage.3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold gasket, and vacuum hoses.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s).4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
5. Contamination in Oil Control Valve (OCV).5. Remove OCV and inspect for contamination. Replace OCV if contaminated.
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs.1. Clean plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in fuel system.2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump.3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
4. Incorrect valve timing.4. Correct valve timing.
5. Leaking cylinder head gasket.5. Replace cylinder head gasket.
6. Low compression.6. Test compression of each cylinder.
7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.7. Replace valves.
8. Plugged or restricted exhaust system.8. Perform exhaust restriction test. Install new parts as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
9. Faulty ignition coil(s).9. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Contamination in Fuel System.2. Clean fuel system and replace fuel filter.
3. Burned, warped, or pitted valves.3. Replace valves.
4. Faulty ignition coil(s).4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug gap.1. Clean spark plugs and set gap.
2. Faulty ignition coil(s).2. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
3. Dirty fuel injector(s).3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information)
4. Contamination in fuel system.4. Clean system and replace fuel filter.

ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

  1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
  2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
  3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair as necessary.
  4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection.
  5. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time , proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST method as follows: Disconnect the fresh air hose (make-up air) at the cylinder head cover and plug or cap the nipple on the cover. Remove the PCV valve hose from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple on the cover. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 psi) of test pressure. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provides the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service information procedures. If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area, refer to «INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS»(ref-304329-S22395648522008110700000) .
  6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply. Remove the air hose, all plugs, and caps. Install the PCV valve and fresh air hose (make-up air). Proceed to next step.
  7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

Note. If oil leakage is observed at the dipstick tube to block location; remove the tube, clean and reseal using Mopar® Stud & Bearing Mount (press fit tube applications only), and for O-ring style tubes, remove tube and replace the O-ring seal.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak. If a leak is present in this area, remove transmission for further inspection. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil gallery cup plug, bedplate to cylinder block mating surfaces and seal bore. See proper repair procedures for these items.
  4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as previously described in 5 under ENGINE OIL LEAK INSPECTION. CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
  5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
  6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
  7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, replace component(s) as necessary.

Scheme 25

Scheme 25: CYLINDER HEAD CORE PLUGS

Using a blunt tool (3) such as a drift and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug (5). With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suitable tool (2) and remove plug (5).

CAUTIONDo not drive cup plug into the casting as restricted cooling can result and cause serious engine problems.

Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount (or equivalent). Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.

It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.

Scheme 26

Scheme 26: CYLINDER BLOCK MAIN OIL GALLERY PLUGS
CAUTIONExcessive use of brake parts cleaner to clean threads in block could cause #5 main bearing failure.
  1. Use Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner (or equivalent) sparingly to clean plug and block.
  2. Coat plug threads with Mopar® Thread Sealant (or equivalent).
  3. Install plug (2). The plug (2) is correctly installed when it is protruding 1 mm to flush with the block boss face (1).

Scheme 27

Scheme 27: ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces

  1. Metal scraper (1).
  2. Abrasive pad or paper (2) to clean cylinder block and head.
  3. High speed power tool with an abrasive pad, a wire brush, or 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow) (3).

Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces

  1. Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
  2. Plastic or wood scraper (4).
CAUTIONExcessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care.

Sealing surfaces must be free of grease or oil residue. Clean surfaces with Mopar® brake parts cleaner (or equivalent).

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50-70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

WARNINGUse extreme caution when the engine is operating with coolant pressure cap removed.

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using combustion leak tester C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

Scheme 28

Scheme 28: CYLINDER HEAD

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Scheme 43
  1. Perform fuel system pressure release procedure before attempting any repairs . Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-304342-S34730499872008110700000) .
  2. Remove clean air hose and air cleaner housing (1). See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S37258294512008110700000) .
  3. Disconnect negative cable from battery (3).
  4. Drain cooling system. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-304343-S02124729692008110700000) .
  5. Remove engine cover.
  6. Remove coolant recovery bottle (3).
  7. Remove and reposition power steering reservoir (2).
  8. Remove power steering pump and reposition.
  9. Remove windshield washer bottle (1).
  10. Disconnect breather hose.
  11. Disconnect PCV hose (4).
  12. Disconnect ignition coil electrical connectors (1).
  13. Remove cylinder head cover.
  14. Raise vehicle.
  15. Remove right splash shield.
  16. Set engine to TDC (1).
  17. Remove accessory drive belts. Refer to «REMOVAL»(ref-304343-S05780822912008110700000) .
  18. Remove lower A/C compressor bolts if equipped.
  19. Remove lower A/C compressor mount (2) if equipped.
  20. Remove accessory drive belt lower idler pulley.
  21. Remove crankshaft damper (2).
  22. Remove water pump pulley (4).
  23. Remove right side engine mount bracket (1) lower bolt.
  24. Remove timing chain cover lower bolts (1).
  25. Disconnect oxygen sensor electrical connector (3).
  26. Remove exhaust pipe at manifold nuts (1) and remove pipe.
  27. Lower vehicle.
  28. Support engine with suitable jack.
  29. Remove right engine mount through bolt (4).
  30. Remove right engine mount to mount bracket bolts (3).
  31. Remove right engine mount adapter (2).
  32. Remove accessory drive upper idler pulley.
  33. Remove right upper engine mount bracket (1).
  34. Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
  35. Remove upper timing chain cover retaining bolts.
  36. Remove timing chain cover. NOTE: If the timing chain plated links can no longer be seen, the timing chain links corresponding to the timing marks must be marked prior to removal if the chain is to be reused.
  37. Mark chain link (1) corresponding to camshaft timing mark.
  38. Mark chain link (3) corresponding to crankshaft timing mark (2).
  39. Remove timing chain tensioner (5).
  40. Remove timing chain (2).
  41. Remove timing chain guides (4,6).
  42. Disconnect fuel line at the fuel rail (2).
  43. Disconnect fuel injector electrical connectors (3).
  44. Disconnect top engine electrical connectors and reposition harness.
  45. Remove fuel rail.
  46. Remove throttle body support bracket retaining bolt (2).
  47. Disconnect electronic throttle control electrical connector.
  48. Disconnect map sensor electrical connector.
  49. Disconnect vacuum lines at intake.
  50. Remove intake manifold retaining bolts.
  51. Remove upper radiator hose retaining bolt (1).
  52. Remove intake manifold.
  53. Remove coolant outlet manifold and set aside.
  54. Remove ground strap (1) at right rear of cylinder head.
  55. Remove exhaust manifold. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S19547876932008110700000) .
  56. Remove camshafts. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S15893420982008110700000) NOTE: All of the cylinder head bolts have captured washers EXCEPT the front two (1).
  57. Remove cylinder head bolts.
  58. Remove cylinder head from engine block.
  59. Remove front cylinder head bolt washers (1).
  60. Inspect and clean cylinder head and block sealing surfaces. Refer to «CLEANING»(ref-304329-S27114866232008110700000) and «INSPECTION»(ref-304329-S09174496122008110700000) .

Note. Ensure cylinder head bolt holes in the block are clean, dry (free of residual oil or coolant), and threads are not damaged.

HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER NOISE DIAGNOSIS

A tappet-like noise may be produced from incorrect valve lash. See STANDARD PROCEDURE .

Scheme 44

Scheme 44: MEASURING VALVE LASH

Scheme 45

Scheme 45
  1. Remove engine cover.
  2. Remove cylinder head cover. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S10843827882008110700000) .
  3. Rotate camshaft so lobes are vertical (1).
  4. Check clearance using feeler gauges.
  5. Repeat for all tappets and record readings.
  6. If clearance was too small, refer to «CLEARANCE TOO SMALL»(ref-304329-S32151511692008110700000) .
  7. If clearance was too large, refer to «CLEARANCE TOO LARGE»(ref-304329-S25152327662008110700000) .

Scheme 46

Scheme 46: CLEARANCE TOO SMALL
  1. Remove camshafts. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S15893420982008110700000) .
  2. Specification - clearance = change.
  3. Decrease tappet thickness by change figure.
  4. Install camshafts. See «INSTALLATION»(ref-304329-S11114030262008110700000) .
  5. Verify that valve lash is correct.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-VVT OIL PRESSURE

This test can be used to help diagnose VVT faults.

Scheme 47

Scheme 47: DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING-VVT OIL PRESSURE

Scheme 48

Scheme 48
  1. Disconnect and remove oil pressure sensor (1). CAUTION: Threads in block are 1/8"-28 British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a National Pipe Thread (NPT) threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder block.
  2. Install an 1/8-28 BSP male to 1/8-27 female threaded adapter (2).
  3. Install oil pressure gauge (1).
  4. Start engine and record oil pressure. CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
  5. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. check for pressure relief valve stuck open, a clogged oil pick-up screen.
  6. Remove oil pan and inspect for debris. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S23187716552008110700000) .
  7. Remove oil pressure relief valve, and inspect. If damaged replace pressure relief valve. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S13142227132008110700000)
  8. If pressure relief valve is okay, replace balance shaft module assembly. See «REMOVAL»(ref-304329-S24666377072008110700000) .
  9. After test is complete, remove test gauge (1) and fitting (2).
  10. Install oil pressure sensor and electrical connector.