PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSE | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| ENGINE WILL NOT START | 1. Weak battery. | 1. Test battery. Charge or replace as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . |
| 2. Corroded or loose battery connections. | 2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to terminals. | |
| 3. Faulty starter. | 3. Test starting system. Check for codes. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. | 4. Test and replace as needed. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 5. Incorrect spark plug gap. | 5. Set gap. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS - SPARK PLUG . | |
| 6. Contamination in fuel system. | 6. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 7. Faulty fuel pump. | 7. Test fuel pump and replace as needed. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 8. Incorrect engine timing. | 8. Check for a skipped timing belt/chain. | |
| ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES ROUGH | 1. Idle speed too low. | 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) |
| 2. Incorrect fuel mixture. | 2. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 3. Intake manifold leakage. | 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold gasket, and vacuum hoses. | |
| 4. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 5. Contamination in Oil Control Valve (OCV). ECK Only | 5. Remove OCV and inspect for contamination. Replace OCV if contaminated. ECK Only | |
| ENGINE LOSS OF POWER | 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs. | 1. Clean plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Contamination in fuel system. | 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 3. Faulty fuel pump. | 3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 4. Incorrect valve timing. | 4. Correct valve timing. | |
| 5. Leaking cylinder head gasket. | 5. Replace cylinder head gasket. | |
| 6. Low compression. | 6. Test compression of each cylinder. | |
| 7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. | 7. Replace valves. | |
| 8. Plugged or restricted exhaust system. | 8. Perform exhaust restriction test. Install new parts, as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . | |
| 9. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 9. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION | 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. | 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Contamination in Fuel System. | 2. Clean fuel system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 3. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. | 3. Replace valves. | |
| 4. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED | 1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug gap. | 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 2. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 3. Dirty fuel injector(s). | 3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) | |
| 4. Contamination in fuel system. | 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter. |
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTIONS |
|---|---|---|
| NOISY VALVES | 1. High or low oil level in crankcase. | 1. Refer to OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE . |
| 2. Thin or diluted oil. | 2. Change oil and filter. | |
| 3. Low oil pressure. | 3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 4. Dirt in lash adjusters. | 4. Replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Worn rocker arms. | 5. Replace as necessary. | |
| 6. Worn lash adjusters | 6. Replace as necessary. | |
| 7. Worn valve guides. | 7. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exists, replace the cylinder head. Refer to CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL . | |
| 8. Excessive runout of valve seats on valve faces. | 8. Refer to VALVES, INTAKE AND EXHAUST - STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| CONNECTING ROD NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Refer to OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE . |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check oil pump, if OK, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil and filter. | |
| 4. Excessive bearing clearance. | 4. Replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Connecting rod journal out-of-round. | 5. Service or replace crankshaft. | |
| 6. Misaligned connecting rods. | 6. Replace bent connecting rods. | |
| MAIN BEARING NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Refer to OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE . |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check oil pump, if OK, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil and filter. | |
| 4. Excessive bearing clearance. | 4. Replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Excessive end play. | 5. Check thrust washers for wear. | |
| 6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. | 6. Service or replace crankshaft. | |
| 7. Loose flywheel or torque converter. | 7. Tighten to correct torque |
OIL CONSUMPTION TEST AND DIAGNOSIS
The following diagnostic procedures are used to determine the source of excessive internal oil Consumption, these procedures and tests apply to vehicles with 50, 000 miles or less.
Note. Engine oil consumption may be greater than normal during engine break-in. Repairs should be delayed until vehicle has been driven at least 7, 500 miles.
Severe service (high ambient temperature, short trips, heavy loading, trailer towing, taxi, off-road, or law enforcement use) may result in greater oil consumption than normal.
Sustained high speed driving and high engine RPM operation may result in increased oil consumption.
Failure to comply with the recommended oil type and viscosity rating, as outlined in the Owner's Manual, may impact oil economy as well as fuel economy.
Oil consumption may increase with vehicle age and mileage due to normal engine wear.
Note. Because a few drops of external oil leakage per mile can quickly account for the loss of one quart of oil in a few hundred miles, ensure no external engine oil leaks are present.
- Oil leakage is not the same as oil consumption and all external leakage must be eliminated before any action can be taken to verify and/or correct oil consumption complaints.
- Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick and dipstick tube installed.
- Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level 15 minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above MAX or the FULL mark on the dipstick.
OIL CONSUMPTION TEST
- Check the oil level at least 15 minutes after a hot shutdown.
- If the oil level is low, top off with the proper viscosity and API service level engine oil. Add one bottle of MOPAR® 4-In-1 Leak Detection Dye into the engine oil.
- Tamper proof the oil pan drain plug, oil filter, dipstick and oil fill cap.
- Record the vehicle mileage.
- Instruct the customer to drive the vehicle as usual.
- Ask the customer to return to the servicing dealer after accumulating 500 miles, Check the oil level at least 15 minutes after a hot shutdown. If the oil level is half way between the "FULL" and "ADD" mark continue with the next step.
- Using a black light, re-check for any external engine oil leaks, repair as necessary, if no external engine oil leaks are present, continue with oil consumption diagnosis.
OIL CONSUMPTION DIAGNOSIS
- Check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not restricted and the PCV valve has the correct part number and correct vacuum source (18-20 in. Hg at idle below 3000 ft. above sea level is considered normal).
- Perform a cylinder compression test and cylinder leak down test using the standard leak down gauge following manufacturers suggested best practices. NOTE: Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or valve guides are at fault.
- If one or more cylinders have more than 15% leak down further engine tear down and inspection will be required.
ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| OIL LEAKS | 1. Gaskets and O-rings. Misaligned or damaged. | 1. Replace as necessary. |
| (a) Loose fasteners, broken or porous metal parts. | (a) Tighten fasteners, Repair or replace metal parts. | |
| 2. Crankshaft rear oil seal. | 2. Replace rear crankshaft oil seal. Refer to SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, REAR, REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Crankshaft rear oil seal surface. Scratched, nicked or grooved. | 3. Polish or replace crankshaft. | |
| 4. Oil pan flange cracked. | 4. Replace oil pan. Refer to PAN, OIL, REMOVAL . | |
| 5. Crankshaft front oil seal. | 5. Replace front crankshaft oil seal. Refer to SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, FRONT, REMOVAL . | |
| 6. Crankshaft front oil seal surface. Scratched, nicked or grooved. | 6. Polish or replace crankshaft. | |
| OIL PRESSURE DROP | 1. Low oil level. | 1. Check and correct oil level. |
| 2. Faulty oil pressure switch. | 2. Replace switch. Refer to SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE, REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Low oil pressure. | 3. Check main bearing clearance. Refer to BEARING(S), CRANKSHAFT, MAIN - STANDARD PROCEDURE . 3. Check rod bearing clearance. Refer to BEARING(S), CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 4. Clogged oil filter. | 4. Replace oil filter. Refer to FILTER, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL . | |
| 5. Worn oil pump. | 5. Replace oil pump. Refer to PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL . | |
| 6. Thin or diluted oil. | 6. Change oil and filter. Refer to OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 7. Excessive bearing clearance. | 7. Replace crankshaft bearings. Refer to OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE . 7. Replace rod bearings. Refer to BEARING(S), CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. | 8. Replace oil pump. Refer to PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL . | |
| 9. Oil pump pick-up tube loose, damaged or clogged. | 9. Replace oil pump pick-up. Refer to PICK-UP, OIL PUMP, REMOVAL . | |
| OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK PLUGS FOULING | 1. Worn or damaged rings. | 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace rings. Refer to RING(S), PISTON - STANDARD PROCEDURE . |
| 2. Carbon in oil ring slots. | 2. Replace rings. Refer to ROD, PISTON AND CONNECTING, REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Worn valve guides. | 3. Replace cylinder heads. Refer to CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL . | |
| 4. Leaking valve guide seals. | 4. Replace valve guide seals. Refer to SEAL(S), VALVE GUIDE, REMOVAL . |
Scheme 353
Due to the high amounts of failures caused by dust, dirt, moisture and other foreign debris being introduced to the engine during service. Covers or caps are needed to reduce the possible damage that can be caused or created.
Scheme 354
Covers over openings will reduce any possibilities for foreign materials to enter the engine systems. Using miller tool (special tool #10368, Set, Universal Protective Cap), Select the appropriated cover needed to the procedure.
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. Refer to CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
| WARNING | USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRESSURE CAP REMOVED. |
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
Scheme 355
| WARNING | WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT THE PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi). |
Install Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700-A, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
Scheme 356
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using (special tool #C-3685-A, Bloc-Chek Kit) or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE
Proper noise diagnosis is essential in locating the source of an NVH complaint. Locating a lash adjuster (tappet) type noise can sometimes be difficult. As a result, an initial misdiagnosis may occur. Refer to the following chart for possible causes and correction of a lash adjuster (tappet) type noise.
| POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTION |
|---|---|
| 1. Engine oil level-too high or too low. This may allow aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy. | 1. Check and correct the engine oil level. |
| 2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding a cylinder head. | 2. Low speed running of up to 1 hour may be required to fully evacuate trapped air from the valve train system. During this time, turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature. |
| 3. Air trapped in the lash adjuster (after 1 hour of run time). | 3. See below |
| (a) Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in the cylinder head. Depress the lash adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Very spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily. | |
| (b) If the lash adjuster(s) are still spongy, replace the lash adjuster(s). Refer to LIFTER(S), HYDRAULIC, REMOVAL . | |
| 4. Low oil pressure. | 4. See below |
| (a) Check and correct the engine oil level. | |
| (b) Check the engine oil pressure. Refer to LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . | |
| (c) Check for excessive main bearing clearance and correct. Refer to BEARING(S), CRANKSHAFT, MAIN - STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| (d) Check for a worn oil pump. | |
| 5. Oil passage to the cylinder head(s) plugged with debris. | 5. Check cylinder head oil passages for blockage. Clean or replace as necessary. |
| 6. Worn valve guide(s). | 6. Measure valve stem-to-guide clearance. Refer to VALVES, INTAKE AND EXHAUST - INSPECTION . |
| 7. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pickup tube. | 7. Inspect pickup tube and replace as necessary. Refer to PICK-UP, OIL PUMP, REMOVAL . |
| 8. Collapsed lash adjuster due to debris ingestion. | 8. Clean debris from engine and replace lash adjuster(s). Refer to LIFTER(S), HYDRAULIC, REMOVAL . |
LASH ADJUSTER (TAPPET) NOISE CHART
AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD
- Disconnect the fresh air make-up hose from the oil filler neck. Cap or plug the make-up air hose nipple.
- Remove the PCV hose from the PCV valve. Cap or plug the PCV valve nipple.
- Attach an air hose with a pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
- Gradually increase air pressure from 7 kPa (1 psi) to 17 kPa (2.5 psi) maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected leak source. Adjust the regulator to a suitable test pressure within this range that provides the best bubble generation which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per Service Information procedures.
- If the leakage occurs at the rear crankshaft oil seal area, follow the procedures for rear seal area leaks. Refer to «LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING»(ref-646216-S29081453092014072800000) .
- If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and make-up air hoses.
- Clean the oil off of the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
Scheme 357
Note. Anytime the oil temperature sensor is removed, it should be replaced with a new sensor.
Scheme 358
Scheme 359
- Disconnect and remove oil temperature sensor (1). CAUTION: Threads in cylinder head are British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a NPT threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder block.
- Install threaded adapter (special tool #9879, Adapter, Oil Pressure Test) (1).
- Install oil pressure gauge (2).
- Start engine and record reading on oil pressure gauge (1). CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
- If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for pressure relief valve stuck open or a clogged oil pick-up screen.
- Remove oil pan and inspect for debris. Refer to «PAN, OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-646216-S04723550562014072800000) .
- Remove oil pressure relief valve. Refer to «VALVE, OIL PRESSURE RELIEF, REMOVAL»(ref-646216-S33008497842014072800000) . and
- Inspect oil pressure relief valve if damaged replace. Refer to «VALVE, OIL PRESSURE RELIEF - INSPECTION»(ref-646216-S40124896742014072800000) .
- If pressure relief valve is ok, replace balance shaft module assembly. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-646216-S32370746852014072800000) .
- After test is complete, remove oil pressure gauge (2) and adapter (special tool #9879, Adapter, Oil Pressure Test) (1).
- Install a new oil pressure temperature sensor (1) and connect electrical connector.
INSPECTION
- Inspect manifold gasket surfaces for flatness with straight edge. Surface must be flat within 0.15 mm per 300 mm (0.006 in. per foot) of manifold length.
- Inspect manifolds for cracks or distortion. Replace manifold as necessary.