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Service Information - 4.7L Engine: Diagnosis Dodge Dakota III

Mechanical 29 illustrations ~6144 words

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START1. Weak battery1. Charge or replace as necessary.
2. Corroded or loose battery connections.2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to the terminals.
3. Faulty starter.3. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) .
4. Faulty coil or control unit.4. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL) .
5. Incorrect spark plug gap.5. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - CLEANING) .
6. Dirt or water in fuel system.6. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring.7. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE1. Idle speed set to low.1. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR - REMOVAL) .
2. Idle mixture too lean or too rich.2. Refer to appropriate Engine ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS article.
3. Vacuum leak.3. Inspect intake manifold and vacuum hoses, repair or replace as necessary.
4. Faulty coil.4. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL) .
5. Incorrect engine timing.5. (Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
ENGINE LOSS OF POWER1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs.1. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - CLEANING) .
2. Dirt or water in fuel system.2. Clean system and replace fuel filter.
3. Faulty fuel pump.3. Refer to FUEL SYSTEM .
4. Blown cylinder head gasket.4. Replace cylinder head gasket.
5. Low compression.5. DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE
6. Burned, warped or pitted valves.6. Replace as necessary.
7. Plugged or restricted exhaust system.7. Inspect and replace as necessary.
8. Faulty coil.8. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL) .
ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly gapped.1. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - CLEANING) .
2. Dirt in fuel system.2. Clean fuel system.
3. Burned, warped or pitted valves.3. Replace as necessary.
4. Faulty coil.4. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL) .
ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly gapped.1. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG - CLEANING) .
2. Faulty coil.2. (Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL) .
3. Dirt or water in fuel system.3. Clean system and replace fuel filter.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSESCORRECTIONS
NOISY VALVES1. High or low oil level in crankcase.1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS in LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE .
2. Thin or diluted oil.2. Change oil and filter.
3. Low oil pressure.3. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear.
4. Dirt in lash adjusters.4. Replace as necessary.
5. Worn rocker arms.5. Replace as necessary.
6. Worn lash adjusters6. Replace as necessary.
7. Worn valve guides.7. (Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
8. Excessive runout of valve seats on valve faces.8. (Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
CONNECTING ROD NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply.1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS in LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE .
2. Low oil pressure.2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil.3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance.4. Replace as necessary.
5. Connecting rod journal out-of-round.5. Service or replace crankshaft.
6. Misaligned connecting rods.6. Replace bent connecting rods.
MAIN BEARING NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply.1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS in LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE .
2. Low oil pressure.2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil.3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance.4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play.5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round.6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter.7. Tighten to correct torque

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSESCORRECTION
OIL LEAKS1. Gaskets and O-Rings.1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged.(a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal2. Replace as necessary (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL) .
3. Crankshaft seal flange. Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked.4. Replace oil pan (Refer to ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL) .
5. Timing chain cover seal, damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT - REMOVAL) .
6. Scratched or damaged vibration damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP1. Low oil level.1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit.2. Replace sending unit (Refer to ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PRESSURE SENSOR/SWITCH - REMOVAL) .
3. Low oil pressure.3. Check oil pump and bearing clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter.4. Replace oil filter (Refer to ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL) .
5. Worn oil pump.5. Replace oil pump (Refer to ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL) .
6. Thin or diluted oil.6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance.7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck.8. Replace oil pump (Refer to ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL) .
9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged or clogged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings.1. Hone cylinder bores and replace rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots.2. Replace rings (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
3. Incorrect ring size installed.3. Replace rings (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON RINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
4. Worn valve guides.4. Ream guides and replace valves (Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/INTAKE/EXHAUST VALVES & SEATS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .
5. Leaking valve guide seals.5. Replace valve guide seals.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

  1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
  2. Remove the spark plugs.
  3. Disable the fuel system. Refer to «FUEL SYSTEM»(ref-247623) .
  4. Remove the ASD relay «(Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN RELAY - REMOVAL)»(ref-247622-S18006397022007020100000) .
  5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
  6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
  7. «(Refer to ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)»(ref-247617-S10726937222007020100000) for the correct engine compression pressures.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

  1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
  2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
  3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
  1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
  2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
  3. Remove the spark plugs.
  4. Remove the oil filler cap.
  5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
  6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
  7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary. Inspect valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary. Inspect valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect. Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in cylinder head or block between adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect. Replace gasket, head, or block as necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings; cracked piston; worn rings and/or cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston. Measure ring gap and cylinder diameter, taper and out-of-round. Replace defective part as necessary

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST

To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.

CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST

WARNINGUSE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRESSURE CAP REMOVED.

VISUAL TEST METHOD

With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.

If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.

CHEMICAL TEST METHOD

Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.

Scheme 208

Scheme 208: REMOVAL - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
Scheme 208: REMOVAL - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
ITEMDESCRIPTIONTORQUE
1Cover Fasteners12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)

Scheme 209

Scheme 209
Scheme 209

Scheme 210

Scheme 210
Scheme 210

Scheme 211

Scheme 211
Scheme 211

Scheme 212

Scheme 212
Scheme 212

Scheme 213

Scheme 213
Scheme 213
  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left side exhaust manifold.
  4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-247624) .
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the intake manifold «(Refer to ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S02581455462007020100000) .
  7. Remove the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «BASE BRAKES - SERVICE INFORMATION»(ref-247605) .
  8. Remove the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S29450297422007020100000) . 1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER 2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
  9. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-247624) .
  10. Remove accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S17004004882007020100000) .
  11. Remove the power steering pump and set aside.
  12. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark. 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
  13. Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
  14. Remove the crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40758092042007020100000) .
  15. Remove the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S42294480202007020100000) . 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
  16. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8515. 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
  17. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
  18. Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40471753452007020100000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
  19. Remove the cylinder head access plug (2).
  20. Remove the left side secondary chain guide «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40471753452007020100000) .
  21. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with fourteen bolts.
  22. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts using the sequence provided.
  23. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.
CAUTIONDo not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.

Scheme 214

Scheme 214: REMOVAL - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Scheme 214: REMOVAL - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
ITEMDESCRIPTIONTORQUE
1Cover Fasteners12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)

Scheme 215

Scheme 215
Scheme 215
  1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
  4. Drain the engine coolant «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the intake manifold «(Refer to ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S02581455462007020100000) .
  7. Remove the cylinder head cover (1) «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S29450297422007020100000) . 1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER 2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
  8. Remove the fan shroud. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-247624) .
  9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
  10. Remove accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S17004004882007020100000) .
  11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (2). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
  12. Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position (2). Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
  13. Remove the crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40758092042007020100000) .
  14. Remove the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S42294480202007020100000) . 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
  15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (6). NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
  16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
  17. Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40471753452007020100000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
  18. Remove the cylinder head access plug (1).
  19. Remove the right side secondary chain guide «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S40471753452007020100000) .
  20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with fourteen bolts.
  21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts using the sequence provided.
  22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.
CAUTIONDo not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.

INSPECTION

  1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness, using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
  2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
  3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.

Scheme 216

Scheme 216: INSTALLATION - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
Scheme 216: INSTALLATION - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 217

Scheme 217
Scheme 217
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
CAUTIONWhen cleaning cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a wooden or plastic scraper (1).

Scheme 218

Scheme 218
Scheme 218
  1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
  2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
  3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
  4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M11 bolts.
  5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
  6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
  7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position the gear onto the camshaft.
  8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
  9. Install the left side secondary chain guide «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S16752523702007020100000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
  10. Install the cylinder head access plug (2).
  11. Reset and Install the left side secondary chain tensioner «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S16752523702007020100000) . 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
  12. Remove Special Tool 8515 (6).
  13. Install the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S23798441702007020100000) .
  14. Install the crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S12447020082007020100000) .
  15. Install the power steering pump.
  16. Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-247624) . ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE 1 Cover Fasteners 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)
  17. Install the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S22939206492007020100000) .
  18. Reinstall the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «BASE BRAKES - SERVICE INFORMATION»(ref-247605) .
  19. Install the intake manifold «(Refer to ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S07549693062007020100000) .
  20. Refill the cooling system «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  21. Raise the vehicle.
  22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
  23. Lower the vehicle.
  24. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
  25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 219

Scheme 219: INSTALLATION - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
Scheme 219: INSTALLATION - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking (2) can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale (2), the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 220

Scheme 220
Scheme 220
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
CAUTIONWhen cleaning cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use only a wooden or plastic scraper (1).

Scheme 221

Scheme 221
Scheme 221
  1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
  2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
  3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting bolts require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
  4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M10 bolts.
  5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure, however, the bolts are not a torque-to-yield design.
  6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: Step 1: Tighten bolts 1-10, 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Step 2: Tighten bolts 1-10, 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.). Tighten bolts 11-14, 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). Step 3: Tighten bolts 1-10, 90 degrees. Tighten bolts 11-14, 30 N.m (22 ft. lbs.). 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD
  7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear (2) and position the gear onto the camshaft.
  8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
  9. Install the right side secondary chain guide «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S23798441702007020100000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
  10. Install the right side cylinder head access plug (1).
  11. Reset and install the right side secondary chain tensioner. 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515
  12. Remove Special Tool 8515 (6).
  13. Install the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S23798441702007020100000) .
  14. Install the crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S12447020082007020100000) .
  15. Install accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247624-S16163766032007020100000) .
  16. Install the fan shroud. ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE 1 Cover Fasteners 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)
  17. Install the cylinder head cover (1) «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S22939206492007020100000) .
  18. Install the intake manifold «(Refer to ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S07549693062007020100000) .
  19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
  20. Refill the cooling system «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  21. Raise the vehicle.
  22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
  23. Lower the vehicle.
  24. Reconnect battery negative cable.
  25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

  1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
  2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
  3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
  4. Low oil pressure.
  5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
  6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
  7. Worn valve guides.
  8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
  9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
  10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
  11. Faulty lash adjuster. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.

Scheme 222

Scheme 222: REMOVAL
Scheme 222: REMOVAL
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516

Note. Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.

  1. Remove the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S29450297422007020100000) .
  2. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
  3. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke.
  4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression stroke.
  5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression stroke.
  6. Using special tool 8516 Rocker Arm Remover (2), press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker arm.

Note. Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.

If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.

  1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
  2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and sealant residue.
  3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the engine must be replaced.
  4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the thrust washer.
  5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket as necessary.

Scheme 223

Scheme 223: INSTALLATION
Scheme 223: INSTALLATION
1 - CRANKSHAFT THRUST WASHER
CAUTIONMain bearings are select fit. (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for proper bearing selections.

Scheme 224

Scheme 224
Scheme 224

Scheme 225

Scheme 225
Scheme 225

Scheme 226

Scheme 226
Scheme 226

Scheme 227

Scheme 227
Scheme 227
  1. Lubricate upper main bearing halves with clean engine oil. CAUTION: When installing crankshaft, use care not to damage bearing surfaces on the crankshaft. NOTE: Apply sealant to the target wheel retaining screws prior to installation.
  2. Install the crankshaft target wheel. Torque the mounting screws to 15 N.m (12 ft. lbs.).
  3. Position crankshaft in cylinder block.
  4. Install the thrust washers (1). 1 - CUT HERE 1 - CYLINDER BLOCK 2 - SEALANT BEAD LOCATION CAUTION: The bedplate to cylinder block mating surface must be coated with sealant prior to installation. Failure to do so will cause severe oil leaks. NOTE: The installation time to install the bedplate after the sealant has been applied is critical. NOTE: Make sure that the bedplate and cylinder block sealing surfaces are clean and free of oil or other contaminants. Contaminants on the sealing surfaces may cause main bearing distortion and/or oil leaks.
  5. Apply a 2.5 mm (0.100 inch) bead of Mopar® Gen II Silicone Rubber Adhesive sealant (2) to the cylinder block-to-bedplate mating surface (1) as shown in illustration.
  6. Coat the crankshaft main bearing journals with clean engine oil and position the bedplate onto the cylinder block. 1 - BEDPLATE 2 - CYLINDER BLOCK NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
  7. Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location, Torque the bolts in the sequence shown in illustration. Tighten bolts A - L to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.) Tighten bolts 1-10 to 2.8 N.m (25 in. lbs.) Turn bolts 1-10 an additional 90°. Tighten bolts A1 - A6 to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.)
  8. Measure crankshaft end play. Refer to «CRANKSHAFT»(ref-247617-S18394662242007020100000) table.
  9. Install the connecting rods and measure side clearance. «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247617-S13044783202007020100000) .
  10. Position the oil pan gasket/windage tray, using a new o-ring, install the oil pickup tube. Torque the bolt to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) torque the nuts to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
  11. Install the oil pan. Torque the retaining bolts to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown in illustration.
  12. Install the engine. «(Refer to ENGINE - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S28090366912007020100000) .

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
  4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-247617-S24586274232007020100000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
  5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
  6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION»(ref-247617-S00648199152007020100000) , under the Oil Leaks row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
  7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S25826051912007020100000) .

Scheme 228

Scheme 228: REMOVAL
Scheme 228: REMOVAL
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8506

Note. This procedure can be performed in vehicle.

  1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmission.
  2. Remove the flexplate «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL)»(ref-247617-S17600110532007020100000) . NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CANNOT be reused after removal. NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Special Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
  3. Using Special Tool 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1)

Scheme 229

Scheme 229: INSTALLATION
Scheme 229: INSTALLATION
1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-2 GUIDE

Scheme 230

Scheme 230
Scheme 230
  1. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
  2. Position the magnetic seal guide Special Tool 8349-2 onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) onto the guide (2). 1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-1 INSTALLER 3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
  3. Using Special Tools 8349 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer (2) and C-4171 Driver Handle (3), with a hammer, tap the seal (1) into place. Continue to tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
  4. Install the flexplate.
  5. Install the transmission.

Scheme 231

Scheme 231: REMOVAL
Scheme 231: REMOVAL
1 - FLEXPLATE
  1. Remove the transmission. «(Refer to TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/AUTOMATIC - 45RFE/545RFE - REMOVAL)»(ref-247628-S02237951042007020100000) .
  2. Remove the bolts and flexplate (1).

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECTING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE) .

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

  1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
  2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
  3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
  4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.

Air Leak Detection Test Method

  1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
  2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
  3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
  4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service information procedures.
  5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to «INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS»(ref-247617-S21706230672007020100000) .
  6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
  7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
  4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-247617-S24586274232007020100000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
  5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
  6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

Scheme 232

Scheme 232: ENGINE OIL SERVICE
Scheme 232: ENGINE OIL SERVICE
1 - TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK
2 - ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3 - ENGINE OIL FILL CAP

The engine oil level indicator is located at the right rear of the engine on the 4.7L engines. (Scheme 232)

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

CAUTIONDo not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can result.

Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

  1. Position vehicle on level surface.
  2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
  3. Wipe dipstick clean.
  4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
  5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
  6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

WARNINGUSE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
  1. Start the engine.
  2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
  3. If a change in RPM is observed the area of the suspected leak has been found.
  4. Repair as required.

Scheme 233

Scheme 233: REMOVAL
Scheme 233: REMOVAL
  1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
  2. Remove the wiper module «(Refer to ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MODULE - REMOVAL)»(ref-247629-S17447599562007020100000).
  3. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
  4. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
  5. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
  6. Disconnect brake booster hose and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
  7. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
  8. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
  9. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
  10. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers. Refer to «IGNITION SYSTEM - SERVICE INFORMATION»(ref-247622).
  11. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
  12. Bleed fuel system «(Refer to FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247623-S20291972152007020100000).
  13. Remove fuel rail «(Refer to FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - REMOVAL)»(ref-247623-S16422250112007020100000).
  14. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
  15. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000).
  16. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
  17. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
  18. Remove coolant temperature sensor. Refer to «COOLING»(ref-247624).
  19. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence. (Scheme 233)
  20. Remove intake manifold.
  1. Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
  2. Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fittings for looseness or blockage.
  3. Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
  1. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
  2. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the mating surface for warp and twist.
  3. Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that would prevent sealing.
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE NOT COMMON)
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN
5 - CHAIN GUIDE
6 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
7 - PRIMARY CHAIN
8 - IDLER SPROCKET
9 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
10 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
11 - TWO PLATED LINKS ON LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN
12 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM

Inspect the following components

  1. Sprockets for excessive tooth wear. Some tooth markings are normal and not a cause for sprocket replacement.
  2. Idler sprocket assembly bushing and shaft for excessive wear.
  3. Idler sprocket assembly spline joint. The joint should be tight with no backlash or axial movement.
  4. Chain guides and tensioner arms. Replace these parts if grooving in plastic face is more than 1 mm (0.039 in.) deep. If plastic face is severely grooved or melted, the tensioner lube jet may be clogged. The tensioner should be replaced.
  5. Secondary chain tensioner piston and ratcheting device. Inspect for evidence of heavy contact between tensioner piston and tensioner arm. If this condition exist the tensioner and tensioner arm should be replaced.
  6. Primary chain tensioner plastic faces. Replace as required.

Scheme 234

Scheme 234: INSTALLATION
Scheme 234: INSTALLATION
1 - VISE
2 - TENSIONER BODY
3 - INSERT LOCK PIN
4 - RATCHET
5 - PISTON

Scheme 235

Scheme 235
Scheme 235

Scheme 236

Scheme 236
Scheme 236
  1. Using a vise, lightly compress the secondary chain tensioner piston until the piston step is flush with the tensioner body. Using a pin or suitable tool, release ratchet pawl by pulling pawl back against spring force through access hole on side of tensioner. While continuing to hold pawl back, Push ratchet device to approximately 2 mm from the tensioner body. Install Special Tool 8514 lock pin (3) into hole on front of tensioner (2). Slowly open vise to transfer piston spring force to lock pin.
  2. Position primary chain tensioner over oil pump and insert bolts into lower two holes on tensioner bracket. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm Torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten Torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  3. Install right side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to Torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N.m (150 in. lbs.). NOTE: The silver bolts retain the guides to the cylinder heads and the black bolts retain the guides to the engine block.
  4. Install the left side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). CAUTION: Overtightening the tensioner arm Torx® bolt can cause severe damage to the cylinder head. Tighten Torx® bolt to specified torque only.
  5. Install left side chain tensioner arm. Apply Mopar® Lock N, Seal to Torx® bolt, tighten bolt to 17 N.m (150 in. lbs.).
  6. Install the right side chain guide. Tighten the bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8515 1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429 2 - PRIMARY CHAIN IDLER SPROCKET 3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
  7. Install both secondary chains onto the idler sprocket. Align two plated links on the secondary chains to be visible through the two lower openings on the idler sprocket (4 o'clock and 8 o'clock). Once the secondary timing chains are installed, position special tool 8515 (6) to hold chains in place for installation.
  8. Align primary chain double plated links with the timing mark at 12 o'clock (1) on the idler sprocket. Align the primary chain single plated link with the timing mark at 6 o'clock on the crankshaft sprocket (3).
  9. Lubricate idler shaft and bushings with clean engine oil.
  10. Install all chains, crankshaft sprocket, and idler sprocket as an assembly. After guiding both secondary chains through the block and cylinder head openings, affix chains with a elastic strap or the equivalent, This will maintain tension on chains to aid in installation. NOTE: It will be necessary to slightly rotate camshafts for sprocket installation.
  11. Align left camshaft sprocket "L" dot to plated link on chain.
  12. Align right camshaft sprocket "R" dot to plated link on chain. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can result in over-torque of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
  13. Remove Special Tool 8515, then attach both sprockets to camshafts. Remove excess oil from bolts, then Install sprocket bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
  14. Verify that all plated links are aligned with the marks on all sprockets and the "V8" marks on camshaft sprockets are at the 12 o'clock position. see scheme 196 CAUTION: Ensure the plate between the left secondary chain tensioner and block is correctly installed.
  15. Install both secondary chain tensioners. Tighten bolts to 28 N.m (250 in. lbs.). NOTE: Left and right secondary chain tensioners are not common.
  16. Before installing idler sprocket bolt, lubricate washer with oil, and tighten idler sprocket assembly retaining bolt to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
  17. Remove all locking pins (3) from tensioners. CAUTION: After pulling locking pins out of each tensioner, DO NOT manually extend the tensioner(s) ratchet. Doing so will over tension the chains, resulting in noise and/or high timing chain loads. 1 - TORQUE WRENCH 2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346 1 - TORQUE WRENCH 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346 3 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 4 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
  18. Using Special Tool 6958, Spanner with Adaptor Pins 8346, tighten left (3) and right (4), camshaft sprocket bolts to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
  19. Rotate engine two full revolutions. Verify timing marks are at the follow locations: primary chain idler sprocket dot is at 12 o'clock primary chain crankshaft sprocket dot is at 6 o'clock secondary chain camshaft sprockets "V8" marks are at 12 o'clock
  20. Lubricate all three chains with engine oil. 1 - IDLER SPROCKET ASSEMBLY 2 - DIAL INDICATOR
  21. After installing all chains, it is recommended that the idler gear (1) end play be checked. The end play must be within 0.10-0.25 mm (0.004-0.010 in.). If not within specification, the idler gear must be replaced.
  22. Install timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S23798441702007020100000) and crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S12447020082007020100000).
  23. Install cylinder head covers «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247617-S22939206492007020100000). NOTE: Before installing threaded plug in right cylinder head, the plug must be coated with sealant to prevent leaks.
  24. Coat the large threaded access plug with Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon, then install into the right cylinder head and tighten to 81 N.m (60 ft. lbs.). see scheme 191
  25. Install the oil fill housing.
  26. Install access plug in left cylinder head. see scheme 191
  27. Install power steering pump «(Refer to STEERING/PUMP - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247608-S03312465172007020100000).
  28. Install radiator fan shroud.
  29. Fill cooling system «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000).
  30. Connect negative cable to battery.

More articles — Service Information - 4.7L Engine