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Service Information - 3.7L Engine: Other Dodge Dakota III

Mechanical 28 illustrations ~6026 words

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

  1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
  2. Remove the spark plugs.
  3. Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
  4. Disable the fuel system. Refer to «FUEL DELIVERY»(ref-247623-S30433765792007020100000) .
  5. Remove the Automatic Shutdown (ASD) relay «(Refer to ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/AUTO SHUT DOWN RELAY - REMOVAL)»(ref-247622-S18006397022007020100000) .
  6. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
  7. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
  8. «(Refer to ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS)»(ref-247616-S33075399952007020100000) for the correct engine compression pressures.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

  1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
  2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
  3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.
  1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
  2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
  3. Remove the spark plugs.
  4. Remove the oil filler cap.
  5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
  6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
  7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS table.

CONDITIONPOSSIBLE CAUSECORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary. Inspect valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat. Reface or replace, as necessary. Inspect valve springs. Replace as necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect. Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in cylinder head or block between adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect. Replace gasket, head, or block as necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings; cracked piston; worn rings and/or cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston. Measure ring gap and cylinder diameter, taper and out-of-round. Replace defective part as necessary

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

CAUTIONBe sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line.

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

  1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
  2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-coil Tap, or equivalent.
  3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar(R) Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar(R) ATF-RTV, and Mopar(R) Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR(R) ENGINE RTV GEN II

Mopar(R) Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR(R) ATF RTV

Mopar(R) ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR(R) GASKET MAKER

Mopar(R) Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR(R) GASKET SEALANT

Mopar(R) Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar(R) Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

CYLINDER HEAD

The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylinder heads.

VALVE GUIDE SEALS

The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are

  1. Loss of engine power
  2. Engine misfiring
  3. Poor fuel economy

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are

  1. Engine overheating
  2. Loss of coolant
  3. Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
  4. Coolant foaming

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

WARNINGWITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT

  1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
  2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
  4. Drain the engine coolant «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  5. Lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the intake manifold «(Refer to ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S36741527942007020100000) .
  7. Remove the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S02086164582007020100000) .
  8. Remove the radiator fan «(Refer to COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S28211438172007020100000) .
  9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
  10. Remove accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S17004004882007020100000) .
  11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
  12. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
  13. Remove the crankshaft damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S25337929552007020100000) .
  14. Remove the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S29943246272007020100000) .
  15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Holding Fixture. NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
  16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
  17. Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S34754275192007020100000) .
  18. Remove the cylinder head access plug.
  19. Remove the right side secondary chain guide «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S34754275192007020100000) . CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed retorque nut to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
  20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
  21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
  22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket.
CAUTIONDo not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.

CAMSHAFT-RIGHT

CAUTIONWhen the timing chain is removed and the cylinder heads are still installed, DO NOT forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Severe valve and/or piston damage can occur.
CAUTIONWhen removing the cam sprocket, timing chains or camshaft, Failure to use special tool 8379 will result in hydraulic tensioner ratchet over extension, Requiring timing chain cover removal to reset the tensioner ratchet.
  1. Remove the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S02086164582007020100000) .
  2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
  3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in installation. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
  4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against sprocket. NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset tensioners. CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
  5. Position Tool 8379 timing chain wedge between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
  6. Remove the camshaft position sensor.
  7. Hold the camshaft with Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt and sprocket.
  8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps. CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS. NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
  9. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.

Scheme 141

Scheme 141: INSTALLATION - LEFT
  1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the left side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 1 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
  2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
  3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
  4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward.
  5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
  6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
  7. Using Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
  8. Remove excess oil from bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
  9. Remove Special Tool 8379 timing chain wedge.
  10. Using Special Tool 6958 spanner wrench with adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
  11. Install the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247616-S39926205412007020100000) .

Scheme 142

Scheme 142: CAMSHAFT-RIGHT
  1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
  2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
  3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, ( 1 thru 4 ) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
  4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward as shown in illustration.
  5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
  6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
  7. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
  8. Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
  9. Remove timing chain wedge Tool 8379.
  10. Using Tool 6958 spanner wrench with adapter pins 8346, torque the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
  11. Install the camshaft position sensor.
  12. Install the cylinder head cover «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247616-S39926205412007020100000) .

Scheme 143

Scheme 143: DESCRIPTION
1 - LEFT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER
2 - RIGHT SIDE CYLINDER HEAD COVER

The cylinder head covers (1, 2) are made of glass re-enforced thermoset plastic, and are not interchangeable from side-to-side.

Scheme 144

Scheme 144: REMOVAL
  1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
  2. Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet hose.
  3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
  4. Route injector harness in front of cylinder head cover (2).
  5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
  6. Remove the cylinder head cover mounting bolts (1).
  7. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.

Note. The gasket may be used again, providing no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

CLEANING

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out

  1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
  2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
  3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (240 in. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 145

Scheme 145: INSPECTION
  1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge (2) to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
  2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
  3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
  4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
  5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
  6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
  7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

Scheme 146

Scheme 146: DESCRIPTION

The crankshaft (1) is constructed of nodular cast iron. The crankshaft is a three throw split pin design with six counterweights for balancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by four select fit main bearings with the No. 2 serving as the thrust washer location. The main journals of the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod bearing lubrication. The No. 6 counterweight has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target wheel mounting. The select fit main bearing markings are located on the rear side of the target wheel (2). The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover, and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - REMOVAL) .

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008 mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005 mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block (Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - INSTALLATION) .

Check crankshaft end play.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION

  1. Service main bearings are available in four grades. The chart below identifies the four service grades available.
Crankshaft MarkingJOURNAL SIZE SIZE mm (in.)
"R" Size63.488 - 63.496 mm (2.4995 - 2.4998 in.)
"S" Size63.496 - 63.500 mm (2.4998 - 2.4999 in.)
"T" Size63.500 - 63.504 mm (2.4999 - 2.501 in.)
"U" Size63.504 - 63.512 mm (2.5001 - 2.5004 in.)
Bearing size
Bearing CodeSizeApplication
Upper Bearing
A.2.443 - 2.447 mmUse with crankshaft size "R"
(.0961 -.0963 in.)
B2.439 - 2.443 mmUse with crankshaft "S, T"
(0.960 -.0961 in.)
C2.435 - 2.439 mmUse with crankshaft "U"
(.0958 -.0960 in.)
Lower Bearing Main "1" and "4"
"1"2.441 - 2.447 mmUse with crankshaft "R, S"
(.0961 -.0963 in.)
"2"2.435 - 2.441 mmUse with crankshaft "T, U"
(.0958 -.0962 in.)
Lower Main Bearing "2" and "3"
"3"2.429 - 2.435 mmUse with crankshaft "R, S"
(.0956 -.0958 in.)
"4"2.423 - 2.429 mmUse with crankshaft "T, U"
(.0953 -.0956 in.)
Bearing Clearances
Main "1, 4"
Crankshaft "R".004 -.034 mm (.00015 -.0013 in.)
Crankshaft "S".004 -.030 mm (.00015 -.0011 in.)
Crankshaft "T".006 -.032 mm (.0002 -.0012 in.)
Crankshaft "U".002 -.032 mm (.00007 -. 0012 in.)
Main "2, 3"
Crankshaft "R".016 -.046 mm (.0006 -.0018 in.)
Crankshaft "S".016 -.042 mm (.00062 -.016 in.)
Crankshaft "T".018 -.044 mm (.0007 -.0017 in.)
Crankshaft "U".014 -.044 mm (.0005 -.0017 in.)

Scheme 147

Scheme 147: REMOVAL

Scheme 148

Scheme 148
  1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
  2. Remove accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S17004004882007020100000) .
  3. Remove A/C compressor mounting fasteners and set aside.
  4. Drain cooling system «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  5. Remove upper radiator hose.
  6. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud.
  7. Remove radiator cooling fan «(Refer to COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL)»(ref-247624-S28211438172007020100000) .
  8. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
  9. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert (1) and Tool 1026 Three Jaw Puller (2).
  10. Using Special Tool 8511 (1), remove crankshaft front seal.

Scheme 149

Scheme 149: INSTALLATION
CAUTIONTo prevent severe damage to the Crankshaft, Damper or Special Tool 8512, thoroughly clean the damper bore and the crankshaft nose before installing Damper.
  1. Using Special Tool 8348 (2) and 8512 (3) , install crankshaft front seal.
  2. Install vibration damper «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247616-S34369034152007020100000) .
  3. Install radiator cooling fan and shroud «(Refer to COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247624-S29957863532007020100000) .
  4. Install upper radiator hose.
  5. Install A/C compressor and tighten fasteners to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
  6. Install accessory drive belt «(Refer to COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247624-S16163766032007020100000) .
  7. Refill cooling system «(Refer to COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)»(ref-247624-S05505992522007020100000) .
  8. Connect negative cable to battery.
CAUTIONDO NOT use a wire wheel or other abrasive cleaning devise to clean the pistons or connecting rods. The pistons have a Moly coating, this coating must not be damaged.
  1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
  2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.
CAUTIONDO NOT remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.

2WD

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
  2. Remove the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN-RADIATOR VISCOUS»(ref-247624-S33967241402007020100000) .
  3. Raise the vehicle.
  4. Remove the engine oil filter.
  5. Remove the oil drain trough.
  6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
  7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
  8. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
  9. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
  10. Lower the front axle.
  11. Remove the through bolts
  12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
  13. Remove the mount to engine attaching bolts
  14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 150

Scheme 150: 4WD
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET
  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Remove the viscous fan.
  3. Raise the vehicle.
  4. Remove the skid plate.
  5. Remove the front crossmember.
  6. Remove the engine oil filter.
  7. Remove the oil drain trough.
  8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
  9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
  10. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
  11. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
  12. Lower the front axle.
  13. Remove the through bolts CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
  14. Remove the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN-RADIATOR VISCOUS»(ref-247624-S33967241402007020100000) .
  15. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts (2).
  16. Remove the engine mount bolts (1), and the mounts (2).

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar(R) Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

  1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
  2. Insert the through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
  3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
  4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
  5. Install the oil drain trough.
  6. Install the engine oil filter.
  7. Lower the vehicle.
  8. Install the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN-RADIATOR VISCOUS»(ref-247624-S33967241402007020100000) .
  9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 151

Scheme 151: 4WD
1 - BOLT
2 - ENGINE MOUNT SUPPORT BRACKET

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar(R) Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

  1. Install the right and left side engine mount brackets (2) to the engine.
  2. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
  3. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
  4. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
  5. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots.
  6. Loose assemble the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
  7. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
  8. Torque the nuts for the through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
  9. Torque the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
  10. Install the oil drain trough.
  11. Install the engine oil filter.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Install the viscous fan. Refer to «FAN-RADIATOR VISCOUS»(ref-247624-S33967241402007020100000) .
  14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 152

Scheme 152: REMOVAL
1 - MOUNT
2 - CROSSMEMBER
3 - NUT
4 - BOLT
  1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
  3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount (1).
  4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
  5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember (2).
  6. Remove the mount (1).

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

  1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
  2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
  3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
  4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.

REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

  1. Disconnect the battery.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of these items.
  4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-247616-S28855385912007020100000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
  5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
  6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. «(Refer to ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)»(ref-247616-S40205957772007020100000) , under the Oil Leak, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
  7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, «(Refer to ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S21401309902007020100000) .

Scheme 153

Scheme 153: DESCRIPTION

The engine oil pan (1) is made of laminated steel and has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray (2) and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.

Scheme 154

Scheme 154: REMOVAL

Scheme 155

Scheme 155

Scheme 156

Scheme 156
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Install engine support fixture (1) special tool # 8534. Do not raise engine at this time.
  3. Remove both left and right side engine mount through bolts.
  4. Remove the structural dust cover.
  5. Drain engine oil. CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake manifold.
  6. Raise engine using special tool (1) # 8534 to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: On 4WD vehicles, the front axle must be lowered, to provide clearance for oil pan removal. It is not necessary to remove the front axle from the vehicle, or remove the axle shafts.
  7. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the pinion bracket.
  8. For 4WD Vehicles Disconnect the front driveshaft at the front axle.
  9. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the front axle mounting bolts.
  10. For 4WD Vehicles Lower axle using suitable jack enough to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
  11. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
  12. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
  13. Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket and replace as needed.
  1. Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
  2. Clean the oil pan gasket surface. DO NOT use a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean sealing surface.
  3. Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean solvent.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

  1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
  2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
  3. Remove oil fill cap.
  4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
  5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
  6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
  7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
  8. Install oil fill cap.
  9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
  10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL

Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine.

Scheme 157

Scheme 157: DESCRIPTION

The intake manifold (2) is made of a composite material and features 300 mm (11.811 in.) long runners which maximizes low end torque. The intake manifold (2) uses single plane sealing which consist of six individual press in place port gaskets to prevent leaks. The throttle body (1) attaches directly to the intake manifold (2). Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.

INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKS

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

WARNINGUSE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN A DIRECT LINE WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE CLOTHING.
  1. Start the engine.
  2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
  3. If engine RPM'S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
  4. Repair as required.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Remove the exhaust heat shield (1).
  6. Remove bolts, nuts (2) and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
  7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.

Scheme 158

Scheme 158

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

  1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the bolts and nuts attaching the exhaust pipe to the engine exhaust manifold.
  4. Lower the vehicle.
  5. Remove the exhaust heat shields (1).
  6. Remove bolts, nuts (2) and washers attaching manifold to cylinder head.
  7. Remove manifold and gasket from the cylinder head.
CAUTIONIf the studs came out with the nuts when removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends. Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precaution is not taken.
  1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
  2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
  3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
  4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
  5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTIONIf the studs came out with the nuts when removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends. Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precaution is not taken.
  1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
  2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) torque.
  3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
  4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
  5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 159

Scheme 159: DESCRIPTION
1 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN6 - PRIMARY CHAIN
2 - SECONDARY TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE)7 - IDLER SPROCKET
3 - SECONDARY TENSIONER ARM8 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
4 - LEFT CAMSHAFT SPROCKET AND SECONDARY CHAIN9 - PRIMARY CHAIN TENSIONER
5 - CHAIN GUIDE (LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE)

The timing drive system has been designed to provide quiet performance and reliability to support a non-free wheeling engine. Specifically the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily damaged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive system consists of a primary chain, two secondary timing chain drives and a counterbalance shaft drive.

MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

Note. This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.

  1. Remove the timing chain cover «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S34754275192007020100000) .
  2. To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain tensioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15 mm (.5906 inches).
  3. If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S34754275192007020100000) .

Scheme 160

Scheme 160: SERVICE PROCEDURE - TIMING VERIFICATION
1 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
2 - CRANKSHAFT TIMING MARKS
CAUTIONThe 3.7L is a non free-wheeling design engine. Therefore, correct engine timing is critical.

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

Scheme 161

Scheme 161
  1. Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to «REMOVAL»(ref-247616-S02086164582007020100000) .
  2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow (2) on the front cover (1). Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
  3. Note the location of the V6 mark (1) stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke.
  4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «TIMING CHAIN & SPROCKETS»(ref-247616-S06155837472007020100000) .
  5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to «TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT»(ref-247616-S34465394142007020100000) .
  6. If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.

Scheme 162

Scheme 162
  1. Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both camshaft sprocket V6 marks (1) in the 12 o'clock position. 1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT GEAR 2 - TIMING MARK 3 - IDLER SPROCKET GEAR
  2. Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity. The timing dot on the counter balance shaft drive gear should be in the 6 o'clock position (2).

Scheme 163

Scheme 163: TIMING - SINGLE CAMSHAFT
1 - CYLINDER HEAD
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8379
3 - TIMING CHAIN

Note. To adjust the timing on one camshaft, preform the following procedure.

Scheme 164

Scheme 164

Scheme 165

Scheme 165

Scheme 166

Scheme 166
  1. Using Chain Tensioner Wedge, Special Tool 8379 (2), stabilize the secondary chain drive (3). For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position.
  2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt. 1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8279 TIMING CHAIN WEDGE 2 - CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR 3 - RETAINING BOLT 4 - CYLINDER HEAD
  3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear (2) from the camshaft.
  4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear. 1 - Camshaft hole 2 - Special Tool 8428
  5. Using Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench (2), rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torquing of bolt resulting in bolt failure. 1 - TORQUE WRENCH 2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET 3 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 6958 SPANNER WITH ADAPTER PINS 8346
  6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Special Tools, Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 (4) and a suitable torque wrench (1), tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. Lbs.).
  7. Remove Special Tool 8379.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then verify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are in fact aligned.
  9. Install the cylinder head covers «(Refer to ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLATION)»(ref-247616-S39926205412007020100000) .

Scheme 167

Scheme 167: REMOVAL
1 - IDLER SHAFT
2 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT THRUST PLATE
3 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT DRIVE GEAR
4 - RETAINING BOLT

Scheme 168

Scheme 168
  1. Remove the primary and secondary timing chains. «(Refer to ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL)»(ref-247616-S34754275192007020100000) . NOTE: The balance shaft and gear are serviced as an assembly. Do not attempt to remove the gear from the balance shaft. Remove the retaining bolt (4) from the counterbalance shaft thrust plate (2). 1 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TOOL 2 - COUNTERBALANCE SHAFT THRUST PLATE
  2. Using Special Tool 8641 Counterbalance shaft remover/installer tool (1), remove the counterbalance shaft from the engine.