PERFORMANCE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSE | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| ENGINE WILL NOT START | 1. Weak battery. | 1. Test battery. Charge or replace as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . |
| 2. Corroded or loose battery connections. | 2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to terminals. | |
| 3. Faulty starter. | 3. Test starting system. Check for codes. (Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING ) | |
| 4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. | 4. Test and replace as needed. (Refer to CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION ) | |
| 5. Incorrect spark plug gap. | 5. Set gap. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS . | |
| 6. Contamination in fuel system. | 6. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 7. Faulty fuel pump. | 7. Test fuel pump and replace as needed. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM ) | |
| 8. Incorrect engine timing. | 8. Check for a skipped timing belt/chain. | |
| ENGINE STALLS OR IDLES ROUGH | 1. Idle speed too low. | 1. Test minimum air flow. (Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic Information) |
| 2. Incorrect fuel mixture. | 2. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM ) | |
| 3. Intake manifold leakage. | 3. Inspect intake manifold, manifold gasket, and vacuum hoses. | |
| 4. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION | |
| 5. Contamination in Oil Control Valve (OCV). | 5. Remove OCV and inspect for contamination. Replace OCV if contaminated. | |
| ENGINE LOSS OF POWER | 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped plugs. | 1. Clean plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Contamination in fuel system. | 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 3. Faulty fuel pump. | 3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM ) | |
| 4. Incorrect valve timing. | 4. Correct valve timing. | |
| 5. Leaking cylinder head gasket. | 5. Replace cylinder head gasket. | |
| 6. Low compression. | 6. Test compression of each cylinder. | |
| 7. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. | 7. Replace valves. | |
| 8. Plugged or restricted exhaust system. | 8. Perform exhaust restriction test. Install new parts, as necessary. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . | |
| 9. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 9. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION ) | |
| ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION | 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. | 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Contamination in Fuel System. | 2. Clean fuel system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 3. Burned, warped, or pitted valves. | 3. Replace valves. | |
| 4. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 4. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION ) | |
| ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED | 1. Dirty or incorrect spark plug gap. | 1. Clean spark plugs and set gap. |
| 2. Faulty ignition coil(s). | 2. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to CHECKING THE IGNITION COIL OPERATION ) | |
| 3. Dirty fuel injector(s). | 3. Test and replace as necessary. (Refer to FUEL SYSTEM ) | |
| 4. Contamination in fuel system. | 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter. |
MECHANICAL
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| VALVETRAIN NOISE | 1. High or low oil level in crankcase. | 1. Check and correct engine oil level. |
| 2. Thin or diluted oil. | 2. Change oil to correct viscosity. | |
| 3. Thick oil | 3. (a) Change engine oil and filter. | |
| (b) Run engine to operating temperature. | ||
| (c) Change engine oil and filter again. | ||
| 4. Low oil pressure. | 4. (a) Check and correct engine oil level. | |
| (b) Check pressure regulating valve. | ||
| 5. Worn cam lobe. | 5. Install new camshaft. | |
| 6. Worn tappet bucket. | 6. Install new select fit tappet bucket. | |
| 7. Worn valve guides. | 7. Replace cylinder head. | |
| 8. Excessive runout of valve seats on valve faces. | 8. Grind valve seats and replace valves. | |
| CONNECTING ROD NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Check engine oil level. |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve and spring. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. | |
| 4. Thick oil | 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter. | |
| (b) Run engine to operating temperature. | ||
| (c) Change engine oil and filter again. | ||
| 5. Excessive bearing clearance. | 5. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary. | |
| 6. Connecting rod journal out-of-round. | 6. Replace crankshaft or grind surface. | |
| 7. Connecting rod out-of-round. | 7. Replace connecting rod. | |
| 8. Misaligned connecting rods. | 8. Replace bent connecting rods. | |
| MAIN BEARING NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Check engine oil level. |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check engine oil level. Inspect oil pump relief valve and spring. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. | |
| 4. Thick oil | 4. (a) Change engine oil and filter. | |
| (b) Run engine to operating temperature. | ||
| (c) Change engine oil and filter again. | ||
| 5. Excessive bearing clearance. | 5. Measure bearings for correct clearance. Repair as necessary. | |
| 6. Excessive end play. | 6. Check thrust bearing for wear on flanges. | |
| 7. Crankshaft journal out-of-round or worn. | 7. Replace crankshaft or grind journals. | |
| 8. Loose flywheel or torque converter. | 8. Tighten to correct torque. | |
| OIL PRESSURE DROP | 1. Low oil level. | 1. Check engine oil level. |
| 2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. | 2. Install new sending unit. | |
| 3. Low oil pressure. | 3. Check sending unit and main bearing oil clearance. | |
| 4. Clogged oil filter. | 4. Install new oil filter. | |
| 5. Worn parts in oil pump. | 5. Replace balance shaft module. | |
| 6. Thin or diluted oil. | 6. Change oil to correct viscosity. | |
| 7. Oil pump relief valve stuck. | 7. Remove valve and inspect, clean, or replace. | |
| 8. Excessive bearing clearance. | 8. Measure bearings for correct clearance. | |
| OIL LEAKS | 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets. | 1. Replace gasket(s). |
| 2. Loose fastener, broken or porous metal part. | 2. Tighten, repair or replace the part. | |
| 3. Misaligned or deteriorated cup or threaded plug. | 3. Replace as necessary. | |
| OIL CONSUMPTION OR SPARK PLUGS FOULED | 1. PCV system malfunction. | 1. Check system and repair as necessary. Refer to VALVE, POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (PCV), DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . |
| 2. Worn, scuffed or broken rings. | 2. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings. | |
| 3. Carbon in oil ring slots. | 3. Install new rings. | |
| 4. Rings fitted too tightly in grooves. | 4. Remove rings and check grooves. If groove is not proper width, replace piston. | |
| 5. Worn valve guide(s). | 5. Replace cylinder head. | |
| 6. Valve stem seal(s) worn or damaged. | 6. Replace seal(s). |
TOP 19 REASONS THAT MAY LEAD TO ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION
- Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
- Distorted Cylinders This may be caused by unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts. This condition presents a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will be burned and cause high oil consumption.
- Improper operation of "PCV "system The main purpose of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. The PCV system usually has a one way check valve and a make up air source. The system uses rubber hoses that route crankcase blow by gases to the intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls the blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake air and fuel mixture. The PCV system can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blow by gases in the crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected, the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets and seals due to crankcase pressurization.
- Worn Piston Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered. Piston rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber.
- Worn, Broken or Stuck Piston Rings When piston rings are broken, worn or stuck to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are not maintained, this will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. All of these conditions will result in burning and carbon build up of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings.
- Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping. This condition will lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement.
- Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned.
- Bent or Misaligned Connecting Rods Bent or misaligned connecting rods will not allow the pistons to ride straight in the cylinders. This will prevent the pistons and rings from forming a proper seal with the cylinder walls and promote oil consumption. In addition, it is possible that a bearing in a bent connect rod will not have uniform clearance on the connecting rod wrist pin. Under these conditions, the bearing will wear rapidly and throw off an excessive amount of oil into the cylinder.
- Fuel Dilution If raw fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile and will result in higher oil consumption. The following conditions will lead to higher oil consumption; Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector Gasoline contaminated with diesel fuel Restricted air intake Excessive idling
- Contaminated Cooling Systems Corrosion, rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator will prevent a cooling system from extracting heat efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion thus leading to higher oil consumption.
- Oil Viscosity The use of oil with a viscosity that is too light may result in high oil consumption. Refer to the vehicle owner's manual for the proper oil viscosity to be used under specific driving conditions and/or ambient temperatures.
- Dirty Engine Oil Failure to change the oil and filter at proper intervals may cause the oil to be so dirty that it will promote accumulation of sludge and varnish and restrict oil passages in the piston rings and pistons. This will increase oil consumption; dirty oil by nature is also consumed at a higher rate than clean oil.
- Crankcase Overfull Due to an error in inserting the oil dip stick so that it does not come to a seat on its shoulder, a low reading may be obtained. Additional oil may be added to make the reading appear normal with the stick in this incorrect position which will actually make the oil level too high. If the oil level is so high that the lower ends of the connecting rods touch the oil in the oil pan excessive quantities of oil will be thrown on the cylinder walls and some of it will work its way up into the combustion chamber.
- Excessively High Oil Pressure A faulty oil pressure relief valve may cause the oil pressure to be too high. The result will be that the engine will be flooded with an abnormally large amount of oil in a manner similar to that which occurs with worn bearings. This condition may also cause the oil filter to burst.
- Aftermarket Performance Chips and Modification Increasing performance through the use of performance/power enhancement products to a stock or factory engine will increase the chance of excessive oil consumption.
- Lugging Engine Lugging is running the engine at a lower RPM in a condition where a higher RPM (more power/torque) should be implemented. Especially susceptible on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This driving habit causes more stress loading on the piston and can lead to increases in engine oil consumption.
- Turbocharged Engines There is a possibility for PCV "push-over" due to higher crankcase pressure (as compared to naturally aspirated engines) which is normal for turbocharged engines. This condition causes varying amounts of engine oil to enter the intake manifold, charge air cooler and associated plumbing to and from the charge air cooler, also a leaking turbocharger seal will draw oil into the combustion chamber where it will burn (blue smoke from tail pipe may be present) and form carbon deposits which contribute to further oil consumption as they interfere with proper engine function.
- Restricted Air Intake Excessive restriction in the air intake system will increase engine vacuum and can increase oil consumption, an extremely dirty air filter would be one example of this situation.
- Intake Manifold port seals Engines that have a "V" configuration and a "wet valley" (3.3/3.8L) could draw oil into the intake ports due to improper sealing between the intake manifold ports and cylinder head. Causes may include improper torque of intake manifold bolts, corrosion (aluminum intake manifold) and or warped sealing surface.
REPAIR OF DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS
Damaged or worn threads (excluding spark plug and camshaft bearing cap attaching threads) can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of drilling out worn or damaged threads, tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, (or equivalent) and installing an insert into the tapped hole. This brings the hole back to its original thread size.
| CAUTION | Be sure that the tapped holes maintain the original center line. |
Heli-Coil tools and inserts are readily available from automotive parts jobbers.
HYDROSTATIC LOCKED ENGINE
When an engine is suspected to be hydrostatically locked, regardless of what caused the problem, the following steps should be used.
| CAUTION | DO NOT use starter motor to rotate the engine, severe damage may occur. |
- Inspect air cleaner, induction system and intake manifold to insure system is dry and clear of foreign material.
- Remove negative battery cable.
- Place a shop towel around the spark plugs when removing them from the engine. This will catch any fluid that may possibly be in the cylinder under pressure.
- With all spark plugs removed, rotate engine crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
- Identify the fluid in the cylinder(s) (i.e., coolant, fuel, oil or other).
- Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders. Inspect engine for damage (i.e., connecting rods, pistons, valves, etc.)
- Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from re-occurring. CAUTION: Squirt approximately one teaspoon of oil into the cylinders, rotate engine to lubricate the cylinder walls to prevent damage on restart.
- Install new spark plugs.
- Drain engine oil and remove oil filter.
- Install a new oil filter.
- Fill engine with specified amount of approved oil.
- Connect negative battery cable.
- Start engine and check for any leaks.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS
Note. All of the sealants mentioned below are not used on every engine, they are listed as a general reference guide. See appropriate service information for specific sealer usage.
There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket. All sealing surfaces that use form-in-place gaskets and sealers must free of grease or oil. Surfaces should be cleaned with Mopar® brake parts cleaner prior to sealer application. After the sealer is applied, the parts should be assembled in no more than 10 minutes.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal the area between the bed plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.
MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4 oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
| WARNING | WITH THE COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP BY CONTINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT THE PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi). |
Install Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.
Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.
Remove all gasket material from cylinder head and block. Refer to ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION . Be careful not to gouge or scratch the aluminum head sealing surface.
Clean all engine oil passages.
CLEARANCE TOO LARGE
- Remove camshafts . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S42590638312014043000000) .
- Clearance - specification = change.
- Increase tappet thickness by change figure.
- Install camshafts . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S18667920402014043000000) .
- Verify that valve lash is correct.
Scheme 224
Note. This procedure is for in-vehicle service with camshafts installed.
Note. Camshaft tappets must be replaced if cylinder head or camshafts are replaced.
Scheme 225
- Remove cylinder head cover . Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S16927086212014043000000) .
- Remove camshafts . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S42590638312014043000000) .
- Remove camshaft tappets (1).
- Repeat removal procedure for each camshaft tappet (1).
- If reusing, mark each camshaft tappet for reassembly in it's original position.
Scheme 226
Note. If reinstalling original tappets they must go back in their original location or engine damage could result.
Scheme 227
- Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to camshaft tappets (1) prior to assembly.
- Install camshaft tappets (1) into cylinder head.
- Repeat installation procedure for each camshaft tappet.
- Install camshafts . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S18667920402014043000000) . NOTE: If installing new tappets, the valve lash procedure must be performed.
- Install cylinder head cover . Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S33643397882014043000000) .
CYLINDER HEAD ON
| CAUTION | Care must be taken not to damage the tappet bore or engine damage may result. |
Scheme 228
| 1 - VALVE RETAINING LOCKS |
|---|
| 2 - VALVE SPRING |
| 3 - VALVE SEAL AND VALVE SPRING SEAT ASSEMBLY |
| 4 - VALVE SPRING RETAINER |
Scheme 229
- Install valve seal/valve spring seat (3) assembly. Push the assembly down with appropriate size socket to seat it onto the valve guide.
- Install valve spring (2) and retainer (4) with keepers (1).
- Place the valve keepers in the retainer. Using metric valve keeper tool such as Snap-on® GA317 (or equivalent) installer (2) and remover (1) as a handle, install valve keepers with a downward push.
- Remove air hose and install spark plugs.
- Install valve tappets.
- Install camshafts . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S18667920402014043000000) .
- Install cylinder head cover . Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S33643397882014043000000) .
CYLINDER HEAD OFF
| CAUTION | Care must be taken not to damage the tappet bore or engine damage may result. |
Scheme 230
Scheme 231
Scheme 232
- Coat valve stems with clean engine oil and insert in cylinder head.
- Install new valve stem seals (3) on all valves using an appropriate sized socket to seat the seal/spring seat. The valve stem seals should be pushed firmly and squarely over valve guide.
- Install valve springs (2).
- Install keepers in retainer and place on valve spring.
- Using metric valve keeper tool such as Snap-on® GA317 (or equivalent) installer (2) and remover (1) as a handle, push downward to install keepers. 1 - GARTER SPRING 2 - VALVE SPRING SEAT 3 - CYLINDER HEAD SURFACE
- Check the valve spring installed height B after refacing the valve and seat. Make sure measurements are taken from top of spring seat to the bottom surface of spring retainer. If height is greater than 38.75 mm (1.525 in.), install a 0.762 mm (0.030 in.) spacer under the valve spring seat to bring spring height back within specification.
- Install valve tappets.
Clean all valves thoroughly and discard burned, warped and cracked valves.
| CAUTION | Due to the small margin on the valves, grinding is not recommended. |
ENGINE BLOCK
- Clean cylinder block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking.
- Examine block and cylinder bores for cracks or fractures.
- Check block deck surfaces for flatness. Deck surface must be within service limit of 0.050 mm (0.002 in.).
Scheme 233
Note. The cylinder bores should be measured at normal room temperature, 21°C (70°F).
The cylinder walls should be checked for out-of-round and taper with Cylinder Indicator C119 or equivalent. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS . If the cylinder walls are badly scuffed or scored, the cylinder block should be replaced, and new pistons and rings fitted.
Measure the cylinder bore at three levels in directions A and B. Top measurement should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) down and bottom measurement should be 10 mm (3/8 in.) up from bottom of bore. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS .
Scheme 234
There are three different sizes of rod bearings available. Connecting rod bearing identification (4) can be found on the nose of the crankshaft (3). Use the table below for proper bearing selection.
| CRANKSHAFT PIN DIAMETER GRADE | CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLASSIFICATION | CONNECTING ROD BEARING THICKNESS |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 (Black) | 3 Micron (-.003 mm.) |
| 2 | 2 (No Color) | Standard |
| 3 | 3 (Green) | +3 Micron (+.003 mm.) |
CONNECTING ROD BEARING SELECTION
Scheme 235
Scheme 236
- For measuring connecting rod bearing clearance procedure and use of Plastigage, refer to «MEASURING BEARING CLEARANCE USING PLASTIGAGE»(ref-612695-S06103514892014043000000) . For bearing clearance, refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612695-S27170069432014043000000) . NOTE: The rod bolts should not be reused.
- Before installing the NEW rod bolts the threads and under the bolt head should be oiled with clean engine oil.
- Install each bolt finger tight then alternately tighten each bolt to assemble the cap properly.
- Tighten the connecting rod bolts using the 2 step torque-turn method. Tighten according to the following values: CAUTION: Do not use a torque wrench for the second step. Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 90°.
- Using a feeler gauge, check connecting rod side clearance. For clearance specifications, refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612695-S27170069432014043000000) .
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MAIN BEARING SELECTION
Note. There are three different possibilities for the upper main bearings and five different lower main bearings. The upper and lower bearing shells are not interchangeable.
Scheme 237
The lower main bearing identification (2) is stamped in the nose of the crankshaft (3). There are 5 different bearing sizes available 0 through 4.
| CRANKSHAFT IDENTIFICATION | LOWER CRANKSHAFT BEARING SELECTION | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| JOURNAL DIAMETER GRADE | DIMENSION | LOWER MAIN BEARING SIZE CLASSIFICATION | LOWER MAIN BEARING DIMENSION |
| 0 | 52 mm, -0.012 to -0.015 mm | 0 (Pink or Red) | 2 mm, 0 to -0.003 mm |
| 1 | 52 mm, -0.015 to -0.018 mm | 1 (Black) | 2 mm, +0.003 to 0 mm |
| 2 | 52 mm, -0.018 to -0.021 mm | 2 (No Color) | 2 mm, +0.006 to +0.003 mm |
| 3 | 52 mm, -0.021 to -0.024 mm | 3 (Green) | 2 mm, +0.009 to +0.006 mm |
| 4 | 52 mm, -0.024 to -0.027 mm | 4 (Blue) | 2 mm, +0.012 to +0.009 mm |
Scheme 238
The upper main bearing shell identification (1) is located in the middle of cylinder block on the right side of the engine. There are three different size bearings available. The bearing class is read downward from top and corresponds to the front journal to the rear journal on the bottom.
| CYLINDER BLOCK IDENTIFICATION | UPPER CRANKSHAFT BEARING SELECTION | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| MAIN BEARING GRADE | DIMENSION | UPPER MAIN BEARING SIZE CLASSIFICATION | UPPER MAIN BEARING DIMENSION |
| 1 | 56.000<56.006 mm | 1 (Black) | 2 mm, 0 to -0.006 mm |
| 2 | 56.006<56.012 mm | 2 (No Color) | 2 mm, +0.006 to 0 mm |
| 3 | 56.012<56.018 mm | 3 (Green) | 2 mm, +0.012 to +0.006 mm |
UPPER MAIN BEARING SELECTION
Scheme 239
| 1 - Crankshaft |
|---|
| 2 - DIAL INDICATOR |
- Mount a dial indicator (2) to front of engine with the locating probe on nose of crankshaft (1).
- Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its travel.
- Zero the dial indicator.
- Move crankshaft all the way to the front and read the dial indicator. For end play specification, refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612695-S27170069432014043000000) .
Scheme 240
Note. Crankshaft can not be removed when engine is in vehicle.
Scheme 241
Scheme 242
Scheme 243
Scheme 244
Scheme 245
Scheme 246
Scheme 247
Scheme 248
Scheme 249
- Remove engine assembly from vehicle. Refer to «REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S29850061772014043000000) .
- Separate transaxle from engine.
- Remove flex plate/flywheel (1).
- Remove crankshaft rear oil seal. Refer to «SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, REAR, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S14470589332014043000000) .
- Remove engine from lift chain (1) and mount engine on a suitable repair stand.
- Drain engine oil (2).
- Remove oil filter (1).
- Remove crankshaft vibration damper (2). Refer to «DAMPER, VIBRATION, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S10867330592014043000000) .
- Remove water pump pulley (3).
- Remove engine mount support bracket (1).
- Remove the oil pan (2). Refer to «PAN, OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S08473930822014043000000) .
- Remove timing chain cover . Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S03534713462014043000000) .
- Remove the timing chain. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S39730999972014043000000)
- Remove balance shaft module. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S35494945082014043000000) .
- Remove the crankshaft sprocket (1).
- Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt (1) and remove sensor (2).
- Remove ladder frame. Refer to «FRAME, LADDER, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S11028132942014043000000) . NOTE: If piston/connecting rod replacement is necessary, remove cylinder head. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S25739607612014043000000) . CAUTION: DO NOT use a number stamp or a punch to mark connecting rods. Damage to connecting rod could occur.
- Using a permanent ink or paint marker, identify cylinder number on each connecting rod and cap.
- Remove all connecting rod bolts and caps. Care should be taken not to damage the fracture rod and cap surfaces. NOTE: Do not reuse connecting rod bolts.
- Remove main bearing caps. CAUTION: Use extreme care when handling crankshaft. Tone wheel damage can occur if crankshaft is mis-handled.
- Lift out crankshaft from cylinder block. Do not damage the main bearings or journals when removing the crankshaft.
Scheme 250
The crankshaft main journals should be checked for excessive wear, taper and scoring. Limits of taper on any crankshaft main journals should be held to 0.006 mm (0.00024 in.). Limits of taper on any crankshaft rod journals should be held to 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.). DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets. Limits of out of round on any crankshaft journals should be held to 0.005 mm (0.0002 in). DO NOT nick crank pin or bearing fillets.
Scheme 251
The crankshaft is supported in five main bearings. All upper bearing shells (2) in the crankcase have oil grooves and holes. All lower bearing shells (1) are smooth. Crankshaft end play is controlled by a two piece thrust bearing (3) on the number three main bearing journal.
Scheme 252
Scheme 253
Scheme 254
Scheme 255
Scheme 256
Scheme 257
Scheme 258
Scheme 259
Scheme 260
- Clean main bearing cap bolt holes with Mopar® brake parts cleaner or equivalent and blow out with compressed air.
- Install the main bearing upper (2) shells with the lubrication groove and oil hole in the engine block.
- Make certain oil holes in block line up with oil hole in bearings and bearing tabs seat in the block tab slots. NOTE: If the crankshaft is sent out for machine work, it must be balanced as an assembly with the target ring installed.
- Clean crankshaft and target ring with Mopar® brake parts cleaner or equivalent and dry with compressed air to ensure that the crankshaft mating surface and target ring mounting holes are free from oil and lock patch debris. NOTE: Always use NEW mounting screws whether installing original or new target ring.
- Install NEW mounting screws finger tight starting with the #1 location. Make sure engagement occurs with the shoulder of the screws and mounting hole before starting all other screws.
- Tighten all mounting screws to 13 N.m (110 in. lbs.) in the sequence shown in illustration. NOTE: Lightly apply trans gel to thrust bearings to hold bearings in block. NOTE: The thrust bearings must be installed with the notches facing the crankshaft.
- Install thrust bearings (2) in block (1). CAUTION: Do not get oil on the ladder frame mating surface. It will affect the ability of the RTV to seal the ladder frame to cylinder block. NOTE: Ensure main bearing cap bolt holes in the block are clean, dry (free of residual oil or coolant), and threads are not damaged.
- Oil the bearings and journals. Install crankshaft in engine block.
- Install lower main bearings (1) into main bearing cap. Make certain the bearing tabs are seated into the bearing cap slots. NOTE: Main bearing caps are stamped 1 - 5 front to rear. Arrows on the caps must point towards the front of the engine.
- Install main bearing caps to engine block.
- Before installing the bolts the threads should be clean and dry.
- Loosely install main bearing cap bolts.
- To ensure correct thrust bearing alignment, perform the following steps: Step 1: Rotate crankshaft until number 4 piston is at TDC. Step 2: Move crankshaft rearward to limits of travel. Step 3: Then, move crankshaft forward to limits of travel. Step 4: Wedge an appropriate tool between the rear of the cylinder block and the rear crankshaft counterweight. This will hold the crankshaft in its furthest forward position. CAUTION: There are different sets main bolts supplied with this engine. Each bolt set has a different torque value and engine damage could result if bolts are not torqued correctly. The bolts are not interchangeable.
- If your bolt heads are marked with b (1) or 6 (2), go to step 15 . If your bolt heads are marked with M (3) or any other marking, go to step 16 . CAUTION: Before tightening bolts, you must identify the bolt head to obtain the correct torque value. Failure to identify the bolts correctly, could result in improperly tightened bolts which could result in engine damage.
- Tighten bolts marked with b or 6 using the following three step method, in the sequence shown in illustration: Tighten all bolts to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) Tighten all bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) Tighten all bolts an additional 45°.
- Tighten bolts marked with M using the following three step method, in the sequence shown in illustration: Tighten all bolts to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) Tighten all bolts to 45 N.m (33 ft. lbs.) Tighten all bolts an additional 45°.
- Remove wedge tool used to hold crankshaft.
- Check the crankshaft turning torque, it should not exceed 5.6 N.m (50 in. lbs.).
- Check crankshaft end play. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING CRANKSHAFT END PLAY»(ref-612695-S03820278662014043000000) .
- Install connecting rod bearings and caps. Do Not Reuse Connecting Rod Bolts. Tighten connecting rod bolts to 20 N.m + 90° (15 ft. lbs.) + 90°. Refer to «ROD, PISTON AND CONNECTING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S24846627402014043000000) .
- Install the ladder frame assembly. Refer to «FRAME, LADDER, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S14569364792014043000000) .
- Install the balance shaft module. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S04248784002014043000000) .
- Install crankshaft position sensor (2) and tighten bolt (1).
- Install cylinder head if it was removed. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S36887171582014043000000) .
- Install front crankshaft sprocket (1).
- Install the timing chain. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S02808096742014043000000) .
- Install the timing chain front cover . Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S28618856352014043000000) .
- Install the oil pan. Refer to «PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S31670436882014043000000) .
- Install rear crankshaft oil seal. Refer to «SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, REAR, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S42707868512014043000000) .
- Install front crankshaft oil seal. Refer to «SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, FRONT, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S13924212902014043000000) .
- Install engine mount support bracket (1).
- Install crankshaft vibration damper (2). Refer to «DAMPER, VIBRATION, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S16498918022014043000000) .
- Install water pump pulley (3).
- Install engine lift chain (1) and remove engine from repair stand.
- Install crankshaft rear oil seal. Refer to «SEAL, CRANKSHAFT OIL, REAR, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S42707868512014043000000) .
- Install drive plate/flex plate using new bolts. Tighten bolts to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
- Attach transaxle to engine. Tighten bellhousing bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
- Install the engine assembly into the vehicle. Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S18608328862014043000000) .
- Install new oil filter (1) and fill with oil.
- Fill with coolant. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-612716-S12637819952014043000000) .
- Start engine and check for leaks.
- Install engine cover.
Scheme 261
- Remove accessory drive belts. Refer to «BELT, SERPENTINE, REMOVAL»(ref-612716-S26668951772014043000000) .
- Install Damper holder (special tool #9707, Holder, Vibration Damper) (1).
- Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
- Pull damper off crankshaft.
Scheme 262
- Install crankshaft damper.
- Apply clean engine oil crankshaft damper bolt threads and between bolt head and washer. Tighten bolt to 210 N.m (155 ft. lbs.).
- Install accessory drive belts. Refer to «BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612716-S36648552212014043000000) .
Scheme 263
- Remove transmission. Refer to «BG6, REMOVAL»(ref-612720-S10962234172014043000000) , «T355, REMOVAL»(ref-612721-S25694220542014043000000) or «CVT, REMOVAL»(ref-612731-S31232395952014043000000) .
- Remove flex plate bolts (3) and discard.
- Remove washer (2).
- Remove flex plate (1).
Clean ladder frame with a plastic or wooden scraper and a suitable solvent. Refer to ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION .
Scheme 264
Note. When using RTV, the sealing surfaces must be clean and free from grease and oil.
Note. When using RTV, parts should be assembled in 10 minutes and tighten to final torque within 45 minutes.
Scheme 265
- Apply a 2 mm bead of Mopar® engine sealant RTV or equivalent as shown in illustration.
- Install bolts and tighten as shown in illustration following a two step method. First: All to 10 N.m (89 in. lbs.). Second: All to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
- Install balance shaft module. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S04248784002014043000000) .
- Install oil pan. Refer to «PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S31670436882014043000000) .
Scheme 266
Scheme 267
- Wipe cylinder bore clean. Insert ring and push down with piston to ensure it is square in bore. The ring gap measurement must be made with the ring positioning at least 13 mm (0.50 inch) from bottom of cylinder bore and below the bottom of the oil ring travel where cylinder bore has minimal wear. Check gap with feeler gauge. Refer to Engine «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612695-S27170069432014043000000) . NOTE: Ring end gap measurements are sensitive to the ring being square in the bore. Care must be used to avoid tilting the rings in cylinder bores when taking measurements.
- Check piston ring to groove side clearance. Refer to Engine «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612695-S27170069432014043000000) .
| CAUTION | Exercise care when using tools on piston. Do not scratch or gouge piston surface or ring grooves as this may cause engine damage. |
Scheme 268
- Using a suitable ring expander, remove upper and intermediate piston rings.
- Remove the upper oil ring side rail, lower oil ring side rail and then oil ring expander from piston.
- Clean ring grooves of any carbon deposits.
Scheme 269
Note. The identification mark on face of upper and intermediate piston rings must point toward top of piston.
| CAUTION | Install piston rings in the following order |
- Oil ring expander.
- Upper oil ring side rail.
- Lower oil ring side rail.
- No. 2 Intermediate piston ring.
- No. 1 Upper piston ring.
Scheme 270
- Install oil ring expander.
- Install upper side rail first and then the lower side rail. Install the side rails by placing one end between the piston ring groove and the oil ring expander. Hold end firmly and press down the portion to be installed until side rail is in position. Do not use a piston ring expander. NOTE: The compression rings are marked Y1 for the upper compression ring and Y2 for the second compression ring. These markings must face upward.
- Install No. 2 piston ring and then No. 1 piston ring.
- Position piston ring end gaps as shown in illustration.
- Position oil ring expander gap at least 45° from the side rail gaps but not on the piston pin center or on the thrust direction. Staggering ring gap is important for oil control.
CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
Note. Due to restricted access to the oil pressure switch, it is recommended to first check VVT oil pressure at the oil temperature sensor. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING .
Scheme 271
Scheme 272
- Remove the oil pressure switch (1). Refer to «SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S37792271672014043000000) . CAUTION: Threads in block are 1/8"-28 British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a National Pipe Thread (NPT) threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder block.
- Install an 1/8-28 BSP male to 1/8-27 female threaded adapter (2).
- Install an oil pressure gauge (1).
- Start engine and record oil pressure. CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
- If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. No oil pressure or low oil pressure at the oil pressure switch can be due to the following: Pressure relief valve stuck open. Clogged oil pump pick-up screen.
- Remove the oil pan and inspect for debris. Refer to «PAN, OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S08473930822014043000000) .
- Remove the oil pressure relief valve. Refer to «VALVE, OIL PRESSURE RELIEF, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S28401328512014043000000) .
- Inspect the oil pressure relief valve. Refer to «INSPECTION»(ref-612695-S03452152722014043000000) .
- If pressure relief valve is OK, replace the balance shaft module assembly. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S35494945082014043000000) .
- After test is complete, remove test gauge (1) and fitting (2). CAUTION: The oil pressure switch has tapered threads, over tightening could crack the engine block. NOTE: If the oil pressure switch is removed, it must be replaced with a new switch.
- Install the oil pressure switch and electrical connector. Refer to «SWITCH, OIL PRESSURE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S07016880092014043000000) .
CHECKING VVT OIL PRESSURE
Note. This test can be used to help diagnose VVT faults. Due to restricted access to the oil pressure switch, it is recommended to first perform this procedure to check VVT oil pressure at the oil temperature sensor.
Scheme 273
Note. Anytime the oil temperature sensor is removed, it should be replaced with a new sensor.
Scheme 274
Scheme 275
Scheme 276
- Disconnect and remove the oil temperature sensor (1). Refer to «SENSOR, OIL TEMPERATURE, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S20573237552014043000000) . CAUTION: Threads in cylinder head are British Standard Pipe (BSP). Do not install a NPT threaded adapter, this could crack the cylinder head.
- Install threaded adapter (special tool #9879, Adapter, Oil Pressure Test) (1).
- Install an oil pressure gauge (2).
- Start engine and record reading on oil pressure gauge (1). CAUTION: If oil pressure is 0 at idle, do not perform the 3000 RPM test
- If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. No oil pressure or low oil pressure at the oil temperature sensor can be due to the following: Clogged variable valve timing filter screen Pressure relief valve stuck open Clogged oil pump pick-up screen
- To determine if the variable valve timing filter screen is clogged, check engine oil pressure at the oil pressure switch. Refer to «LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING»(ref-612695-S25533311302014043000000) .
- If oil pressure is acceptable at the oil pressure switch, but low at the oil temperature sensor, remove the cylinder head (1) and inspect the variable valve timing filter screen (3). Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S25739607612014043000000) .
- After test is complete, remove oil pressure gauge (2) and adapter (special tool #9879, Adapter, Oil Pressure Test) (1).
- Install a new oil temperature sensor (1) and connect the electrical connector. Refer to «SENSOR, OIL TEMPERATURE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S14508920242014043000000) .
Scheme 277
Variable valve timing solenoid assembly. The solenoid receives pulse width modulation signal and the current is controlled within 0 ma to 1000 ma. The spool position is controllable at any position to control supply of oil between the advance and retard ports.
ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE
| WARNING | New or used engine oil can be irritating to the skin. Avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact with engine oil. Contaminants in used engine oil, caused by internal combustion, can be hazardous to your health. Thoroughly wash exposed skin with soap and water. Do not wash skin with gasoline, diesel fuel, thinner, or solvents, health problems can result. Do not pollute, dispose of used engine oil properly. Contact your dealer or government agency for location of collection center in your area. |
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in the Maintenance Schedule. Refer to MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES, DESCRIPTION .
Scheme 278
Scheme 279
- Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.
- Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
- Remove oil fill cap.
- Raise vehicle on hoist.
- Place a suitable oil collecting container under oil pan drain plug (2).
- Remove oil pan drain plug (2) or and allow oil to drain into collecting container. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and gasket if damaged.
- Remove oil filter (1). Refer to «FILTER, ENGINE OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S04169304802014043000000) .
- Install oil pan drain plug (2) and tighten drain plug to 40 N.m (30 ft. lbs.).
- Install new oil filter (1). Refer to «FILTER, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S17842964492014043000000) .
- Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil. Refer to «CAPACITIES AND RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, DESCRIPTION»(ref-612692-S30721925562014043000000) and «CAPACITIES AND RECOMMENDED FLUIDS, SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-612692-S36910053762014043000000) .
- Install oil fill cap.
- Start engine and inspect for leaks.
- Stop engine and inspect oil level.
USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL
Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING listed above under ENGINE OIL AND FILTER CHANGE .
Scheme 280
Scheme 281
Scheme 282
- Raise vehicle on hoist.
- Remove oil drain plug (2) and drain the engine oil.
- Remove accessory drive belt splash shield.
- Remove lower A/C compressor mounting bolt (if equipped).
- Remove A/C mounting bracket (2). NOTE: Do not use pry points in block to remove oil pan.
- Remove oil pan retaining bolts.
- Using a putty knife (1), loosen seal around oil pan (2).
- Remove oil pan (2).
Scheme 283
Note. Oil pan sealing surfaces must be free of grease or oil.
Note. Parts must be assembled within 10 minutes of applying RTV.
Scheme 284
Scheme 285
- Apply Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II at the front cover to engine block parting lines (1).
- Apply a 2 mm bead of Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II around the oil pan as shown in illustration.
- Position oil pan and install bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.). NOTE: The 2 long bolts must be tightened to 22 N.m (195 in.lbs.).
- Install oil drain plug (2).
- Lower vehicle and fill engine crankcase with proper oil to correct level.
- Start engine and check for leaks.
Scheme 286
The engine block has three tapered plugs sealing the high pressure oil gallery. These threaded plugs do not have a torque specification but instead are installed to a specific depth. Do not attempt to further tighten these plugs, damage to the engine block could result. Whenever these plugs are removed they must be replaced. Service plugs have a lock patch and do not require the application of additional sealant.
Scheme 287
| CAUTION | Excessive use of brake parts cleaner to clean threads in block could cause #5 main bearing failure. |
Note. Rear plug shown in illustration, other plugs are similar.
- Remove the plug (2) from the engine block.
- Use Mopar® Brake Parts Cleaner (or equivalent) sparingly to clean the block.
- Discard gasket (if equipped) and clean all surfaces of manifold and cylinder head.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE TIMING VERIFICATION
| CAUTION | Painted or colored chain links are used during initial engine assembly and can not be relied upon for valve timing verification. These markings are in different locations for early production, late production and service parts. Only use TDC marks, cylinder head cover sealing surface and camshaft sprocket marks to verify valve timing or engine damage may result. |
Scheme 288
Scheme 289
- Remove engine cover.
- Remove cylinder head cover. Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S16927086212014043000000) .
- Set engine to TDC (1, 2).
- The marks on the camshaft sprockets (3) should be in line with the cylinder head cover sealing surface.
- Install cylinder head cover . Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S33643397882014043000000) .
- Install the engine cover.
Scheme 290
Scheme 291
- Remove timing chain cover . Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S03534713462014043000000) . NOTE: The crankshaft timing mark (3) or (5) can be in one of two locations depending on whether the engine is early production (5), late production (3) or assembled with service parts (3). In all cases the keyway (2) will always be in the 9:00 position, in line with the ladder frame mounting surface (1) when the engine is at TDC.
- Verify that the engine is still set to TDC. NOTE: If the timing chain plated links can no longer be seen, the timing chain links corresponding to the timing marks must be marked prior to removal if the chain is to be reused.
- Mark chain link (4) corresponding to crankshaft timing mark (3) or (5).
- With the engine still set to TDC, verify that the marks on the camshaft sprockets (3) are in line with the cylinder head cover sealing surface (2). If the marks do not line up, the timing chain is not correctly installed.
- Mark chain link (1) corresponding to camshaft timing mark.
- Remove timing chain tensioner (5). Refer to «TENSIONER, ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S00631176912014043000000) .
- Remove timing chain (2).
CAMSHAFT SPROCKET(S)
Note. Camshaft phasers and camshaft sprockets are supplied as an assembly, do not attempt to disassemble.
Refer to camshaft phaser removal . Refer to CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, REMOVAL .
Scheme 292
- Remove timing chain. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S39730999972014043000000) .
- Remove oil pan. Refer to «PAN, OIL, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S08473930822014043000000) .
- Remove oil pump drive chain tensioner.
- Remove oil pump drive chain.
- Remove crankshaft sprocket (1).
Scheme 293
Inspect timing chain for stretching prior to removal.
- Rotate engine while watching timing chain tensioner plunger. When the plunger reaches its maximum travel stop rotating engine.
- Measure the distance from the tensioner body and the edge of the chain guide as shown in illustration.
- If the distance is greater than 20.5 mm (0.81 in.) inspect guide shoes for excessive wear.
- If guides are okay, replace timing chain.
Scheme 294
Scheme 295
Scheme 296
- Install crankshaft sprocket (1) onto crankshaft.
- Install oil pump drive chain. Verify that Oil pump is correctly timed (1, 2, 5, 6).
- Reset oil pump drive chain tensioner by pushing plunger inward and install tensioner pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner).
- Install oil pump drive chain tensioner (3) and remove Tensioner Pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (4).
- Install timing chain. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S02808096742014043000000) .
- Install oil pan. Refer to «PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S31670436882014043000000) .
- Fill engine with oil. Refer to «OIL, STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-612695-S32585482342014043000000) .
- Start engine and check for leaks.
Scheme 297
Note. The camshaft sprockets and the camshaft phasers are an assembly and cannot be serviced separately.
| CAUTION | Do not use an impact wrench to tighten camshaft sprocket bolts. Damage to the camshaft-to-sprocket locating dowel pin and camshaft phaser may occur. |
- Refer to Camshaft phaser (2) installation . Refer to «CAMSHAFT, ENGINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S18667920402014043000000) .
TIMING CHAIN
Note. The crankshaft timing mark (3) or (5) can be in one of two locations depending on whether the engine is early production (5), late production (3) or assembled with service parts (3). In all cases the keyway (2) will always be in the 9:00 position, in line with the ladder frame mounting surface (1) when the engine is at TDC.
- Verify that the engine is still set to TDC.
- Align camshaft timing marks (3) so they are facing each other and in line with the cylinder head cover sealing surface (2).
- Install timing chain so plated (or marked) links on chain align with timing marks on camshaft sprockets (1).
- Align timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (3) or (5) with the plated (or marked) link (4) on the timing chain. Position chain so slack will be on the tensioner side. NOTE: Keep the slack in the timing chain on the tensioner side.
- Install the timing chain tensioner (5) Refer to «TENSIONER, ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S03314089502014043000000) . Rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE two complete revolutions until the crankshaft is repositioned at the TDC position with the key way at the 9 o'clock position.
- Verify that the camshafts timing marks (3) are in the proper position and in line with the cylinder head cover sealing surface. If the marks do not line up, the timing chain is not correctly installed.
- Install front timing chain cover . Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S28618856352014043000000) .
- Connect negative battery cable.
- Operate engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check oil and cooling systems for correct fluid levels.
Scheme 298
Scheme 299
Scheme 300
Scheme 301
Scheme 302
Scheme 303
Scheme 304
Scheme 305
- Remove engine cover (1) by pulling upward.
- Perform fuel pressure bleed procedure. Refer to «FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE»(ref-612715-S11840219172014043000000) .
- Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
- Remove coolant recovery bottle (3). Refer to «BOTTLE, COOLANT RECOVERY, REMOVAL»(ref-612716-S22369235242014043000000) .
- Remove and reposition power steering reservoir (2).
- Remove windshield washer bottle (1). Refer to «RESERVOIR, WINDSHIELD WASHER, REMOVAL»(ref-612717-S11084034842014043000000) .
- Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «BELT, SERPENTINE, REMOVAL»(ref-612716-S26668951772014043000000) .
- Remove power steering hose hold down (2).
- Remove the three power steering pump mounting bolts (1) through the openings in the pulley (3) and reposition the pump.
- Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S16927086212014043000000) .
- Remove ignition coils from cylinder head cover.
- Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to «HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-612692-S42044915732014043000000) .
- Remove the right lower splash shield. Refer to «SHIELD, SPLASH, FRONT WHEELHOUSE, REMOVAL»(ref-612710-S08980961332014043000000) .
- Set engine to TDC (1).
- Remove lower A/C compressor bolts if equipped.
- Remove lower A/C compressor mount (2) if equipped.
- Remove accessory drive belt lower idler pulley (2).
- Remove crankshaft damper (2). Refer to «DAMPER, VIBRATION, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S10867330592014043000000) .
- Remove three bolts and water pump pulley (4) from water pump.
- Remove lower bolt from right side engine mount bracket (1).
- Remove timing chain cover lower bolts (1).
- Lower vehicle.
- Support engine with suitable jack.
- Remove right engine mount through bolt (4).
- Remove right engine mount to mount bracket bolts (3).
- Remove right engine mount adapter (2).
- Remove accessory drive upper idler pulley (1).
- Remove right upper engine mount bracket (1).
- Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
- Remove timing chain cover retaining bolts.
- Remove timing chain cover using pry points (1, 2, 3).
- Remove timing chain cover (1) out through the bottom of the vehicle.
Scheme 306
Note. When using RTV, the sealing surfaces must be clean and free from grease and oil.
Note. When using RTV, parts should be assembled in 10 minutes and tighten to final torque within 45 minutes.
Scheme 307
Scheme 308
Scheme 309
Scheme 310
Scheme 311
Scheme 312
Scheme 313
Scheme 314
Scheme 315
Scheme 316
Scheme 317
- Clean all sealing surfaces. Refer to «ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION»(ref-612695-S26646184832014043000000) .
- Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown in illustration at the cylinder head to block parting line (1, 2).
- Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown in illustration at the ladder frame to block parting line (1, 2).
- Apply Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) as shown in illustration in the corner of the oil pan and block.
- Apply 2 mm bead of Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) to the oil pan as shown in illustration.
- Apply 2 mm bead of Mopar® engine sealant RTV (or equivalent) to the engine block (1, 2) as shown in illustration.
- Install timing chain cover (1) upwards from under the vehicle.
- Install timing chain cover upper retaining bolts and tighten M6 bolts to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.) and M8 bolts to 26 N.m (230 in. lbs.).
- Install accessory drive belt tensioner. Tighten bolt to 24 N.m (212 in. lbs.).
- Install right engine mount bracket (1). Tighten bolts to 50 N.m (37 ft. lbs.).
- Install accessory drive belt upper idler pulley (1). Tighten bolt to 48 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
- Install engine mount adapter (2) and tighten bolts (3) to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
- Install engine mount through bolt (4) and tighten to 88 N.m (65 ft. lbs.).
- Remove jack from under engine.
- Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to «HOISTING, STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-612692-S42044915732014043000000) .
- Install oil pan to timing chain cover lower retaining bolts (1) and tighten M6 bolts to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
- Install water pump pulley (4) and tighten three bolts to 9 N.m (80 in. lbs.).
- Install crankshaft damper (2) Refer to «DAMPER, VIBRATION, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S16498918022014043000000) .
- Install accessory drive belt lower idler pulley (2). Tighten bolt to 48 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).
- Install lower A/C compressor mounting bracket (2). Tighten the bolts to 24 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
- Install A/C compressor (1). Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
- Install right lower splash shield. Refer to «SHIELD, SPLASH, FRONT WHEELHOUSE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612710-S29185888482014043000000) .
- Lower vehicle.
- Install cylinder head cover and ignition coils . Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S33643397882014043000000) .
- Place the power steering pump in mounting position. Install the three bolts (1) through openings in the pulley (3). Tighten the mounting bolts (1) to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs.).
- Install the power steering hose hold down (2).
- Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-612716-S36648552212014043000000) .
- Install power steering pump reservoir (2). Tighten mounting screw to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
- Install windshield washer reservoir (1).
- Install coolant recovery reservoir (3). Tighten mounting bolts to 4 N.m (35 in. lbs.).
- Install clean air hose (5) and air cleaner housing (1). Refer to «BODY, AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S20867479562014043000000) .
- Install air cleaner housing inlet.
- Connect negative battery cable.
- Operate engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Check oil system for leaks and correct fluid level.
- Install engine cover (1).
Scheme 318
- Remove the engine timing cover. Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, REMOVAL»(ref-612695-S03534713462014043000000) . NOTE: Tensioner will not come apart during removal.
- Remove timing chain tensioner retaining bolts and remove tensioner (5).
Scheme 319
Scheme 320
- Reset timing chain tensioner (4) by lifting up on ratchet (2) and pushing plunger (3) inward towards the tensioner body (4). Insert Tensioner Pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) into slot (1) to hold tensioner plunger in the retracted position. NOTE: Keep the slack in the timing chain on the tensioner side.
- Install timing chain tensioner (1) and tighten bolts to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
- Remove timing Tensioner Pin (special tool #8514, Pins, Tensioner) (2).
- Install the engine timing cover Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-612695-S28618856352014043000000) .