Engine Block (Except Hybrid): Other Honda Civic VIII рестайлинг

Engine Block (R18A1)

Note. Refer to the ENGINE BLOCK (SUPPLEMENT) (GX) article for additional information for the GX model.

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1. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S09846811512007060300000) ).
2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate (see step 8 ).
3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft. Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15-0.35 mm (0.006-0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit; replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
6. If the end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).

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1. To check the main bearing-to-journal oil clearance, remove the lower block and bearing halves (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal.
4. Reinstall the bearings and lower block, then torque the bolts to 25 N-m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 lbf-ft) + 57 degrees in the proper sequence (see step 19 ). NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the lower block and bearings again, and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.018 - 0.034 mm (0.0007 - 0.0013 in.) Service Limit: 0.045 mm (0.0018 in.)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft, and start over.

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1. Numbers, letters or bars have been stamped on the either side of the block end as a code for the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the crank bore codes. If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
3. Use the crank bore codes and crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the following table. NOTE: Color code is on the edge of the bearing. When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

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1. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S09846811512007060300000) ).
2. Remove the oil screen and baffle plate (see step 8 ).
3. Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half.
4. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
5. Place plastigage across the rod journal.
6. Reinstall the bearing half and cap, and torque the bolts to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft) + 90 degrees using a commercially available torque angle gauge. NOTE: Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
7. Remove the rod cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.024-0.042 mm (0.0009-0.0017 in.) Service Limit: 0.055 mm (0.0022 in.)
8. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, install a new, complete bearing with the same color code(s), and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
9. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearing, replace the crankshaft, and start over.

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1. Inspect each connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.
2. Each rod has a tolerance range from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in.) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It is then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3 or 4/I, II, III, or MM) indicating the range. You may find any combination of numbers and bars in any engine. (Half the number or bar is stamped on the bearing cap, the other half is on the rod.) If you can't read the code because of an accumulation of oil and varnish, do not scrub it with a wire brush or scraper. Clean it only with solvent or detergent. Normal Bore Size: 48.0 mm (1.89 in.)
3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
4. Use the big end bore codes and rod journal codes to select the appropriate replacement bearings from the following table. NOTE: Color code is on the edge of the bearing. When using bearing halves of different colors, it does not matter which color is used in the top or bottom.

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1. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 12 .
2. Remove the drive belt (see «DRIVE BELT INSPECTION»(ref-255504-S07168631822007060300000) ).
3. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud (see «A/C COMPRESSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-355135-S33642564182010012000000) ).
4. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector, then remove the harness clamp. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses (see step 39 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-355120-S12609818682010012000000) ).
5. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
6. Remove the splash shield (see step 23 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-355120-S12609818682010012000000) ).
7. Drain the engine oil (see «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(ref-255489-S25158093492007060300000) ).
8. Remove exhaust pipe A (see step 27 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-355120-S12609818682010012000000) ).
9. Support the oil pan with a jack.
10. Remove the lower torque rod (see step 46 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-355120-S12609818682010012000000) ).
11. Remove the jack.
12. Remove the lower torque rod bracket.
13. Remove the A/C compressor bracket.
14. A/T model: Remove the shift cable cover.
15. Remove the clutch cover/torque converter cover (A), and remove the two bolts securing the transmission.
16. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
17. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places shown.
18. Remove the oil pan.

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1. Remove the engine assembly (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-355120-S12609818682010012000000) ).
2. Remove the transmission: Manual transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(ref-355121-S29387121232010012000000) ) Automatic transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(ref-355122-S22447778342010012000000) )
3. M/T model: Remove the pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel (see «PRESSURE PLATE AND CLUTCH DISC REMOVAL (5-SPEED MODEL)»(ref-255516-S15846244302007060300000) ).
4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-355122-S42728269042010012000000) ).
5. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S09846811512007060300000) ).
6. Remove the oil pump (see «REMOVAL»(ref-255489-S40137675122007060300000) ).
7. Remove the cylinder head (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(ref-255508-S34767555882007060300000) ).
8. Remove the oil screen (A) and baffle plate (B).
9. Remove the 8 mm bolts.
10. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
11. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the lower block from the engine block in the places shown.
12. Remove the lower block and bearings. Keep all the bearings in order.
13. Remove the rod caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings in order.
14. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine. Be careful not to damage the journals and the crankshaft position (CKP) pulse plate (B).
15. Remove the CKP pulse plate (B).
16. Remove the thrust washers (C).
17. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
18. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are pushed out.
19. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the piston/connecting rod assembly (B). Take care not to damage the oil jets or cylinder with the connecting rod.
20. Reinstall the lower block and the bearings on the engine in the proper order.
21. Reinstall the connecting rod bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly.
22. Mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number to make sure they are reused in the original order. NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the engine, it indicates the rod bore size.

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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
3. Clean the keyway and the threads.
4. Measure the out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
5. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
6. Place the engine block on the surface plate.
7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 5 journals of the engine block.
8. Lower the crankshaft into the block.
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.)

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1. Remove the crankshaft and pistons (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston diameter at a point 14 mm (0.55 in.) from the bottom of the skirt. Piston Diameter Standard (New): 80.980-80.990 mm (3.1881-3.1886 in.) Service Limit: 80.93 mm (3.186 in.) Oversize Piston Diameter 0.25: 81.230-81.240 mm (3.1980-3.1984 in.)
4. Measure the wear and taper Y at three levels inside each cylinder as shown. If the measurements in any cylinder are beyond the Oversize Bore Service Limit, replace the engine block. If the engine block is being rebored, refer to step 7 after reboring. Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): 81.000-81.015 mm (3.1890-3.1896 in.) Service Limit: 81.070 mm (3.1917 in.) Oversize Bore 0.25: 81.250-81.265 mm (3.1988-3.1994 in.) Reboring limit: 0.25 mm (0.01 in.) max. Bore Taper Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
5. Scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed.
6. Check the top of the engine block for warpage. Measure along the edges, and across the center as shown. Engine Block Warpage Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the clearance is near, or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and engine block for excessive wear. Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance Standard (New): 0.010-0.035 mm (0.0004-0.0014 in.) Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)

Cylinder Bore Honing

Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed.

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1. Measure the cylinder bores (see «BLOCK AND PISTON INSPECTION»(ref-255533-S01471911352007060300000) ). If the engine block is to be reused, hone the cylinders, and remeasure the bores.
2. Remove and replace the oil jets (see «OIL JET REPLACEMENT»(ref-255489-S16348871692007060300000) ).
3. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone. Honing Pattern: Within 30-60 degree cross-hatch pattern (A) NOTE: Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent. Do not use stones that are worn or broken.
4. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles. Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately to prevent rusting. Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls.
5. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing the engine block to the service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail, and does not run the full length of the bore.
6. Install the new oil jets (see «OIL JET REPLACEMENT»(ref-255489-S16348871692007060300000) ).

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S31147131582007060300000) ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B). NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.

Only a scored or scratched cylinder bore must be honed.

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1. Measure the cylinder bores (see «BLOCK AND PISTON INSPECTION»(ref-255533-S31473378822007060300000) ). If the engine block is to be reused, hone the cylinders, and remeasure the bores.
2. Remove the oil jets.
3. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60 degree cross-hatch pattern (A). Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent. Do not use stones that are worn or broken.
4. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles. Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately to prevent rusting. Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls.
5. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing the engine block to the service limit, rebore the engine block. Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail, and does not run the full length of the bore.
6. Install the oil jets.

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-255533-S24156448642007060300000) ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A), and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B). NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove both snap rings (A). Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.