4.7L Engine - Service Information: Diagnosis Dodge Durango II

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE

ENGINE 4.7L DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL

ENGINE 4.7L DIAGNOSIS - MECHANICAL

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION

ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs.
3. Disable the fuel system. Refer to «FUEL DELIVERY»(ref-564649) .
4. Remove the ASD relay (Refer to «RELAY-AUTO SHUT DOWN»(ref-238310-S01616294542006072400000) ).
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders.
7. (Refer to «SPECIFICATIONS»(ref-212815-S08543634492005122700000) ,) for the correct engine compression pressures.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression, While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

INSPECTION

1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness, using a straightedge and a feeler gauge. If tolerances exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.

Note. Thoroughly inspect the connecting rod bearing bores and main bearing bores for scoring, blueing or severe scratches. Further disassembly may be required.

If connecting rod bearing bores show damage, the cylinder heads must be removed to service the piston and rod assemblies. If the bedplate or the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage the engine must be replaced.

1. If required, remove the main bearing halves from the cylinder block and bedplate.
2. Thoroughly clean the bedplate to cylinder block sealing surfaces and main bearing bores. Remove all oil and sealant residue.
3. Inspect the bedplate main bearing bores for cracks, scoring or severe blueing. If either condition exists the engine must be replaced.
4. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing. If either condition exist replace the thrust washer.
5. Inspect the oil pan gasket/windage tray for splits, tears or cracks in the gasket sealing surfaces. Replace gasket as necessary.

Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.

Note. If any of the crankshaft journals are scored, the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.

Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.

Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage. Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

Scheme 198

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Scheme 200

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to «BELTS-DRIVE»(ref-212748-S08533630352005122700000) ).
3. Remove A/C compressor mounting fasteners and set aside.
4. Drain cooling system (Refer to «DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM - ALL ENGINES»(ref-212747-S18408552002005122700000) ).
5. Remove upper radiator hose.
6. Disconnect electrical connector for fan mounted inside radiator shroud.
7. Remove radiator shroud attaching fasteners. NOTE: Transmission cooler line snaps into shroud lower right hand corner.
8. Remove radiator cooling fan and shroud (Refer to «FAN-RADIATOR VISCOUS»(ref-212747-S08435546542006072400000) ).
9. Remove crankshaft damper bolt.
10. Remove damper using Special Tools 8513 Insert and 1026 Three Jaw Puller.
11. Using Special Tool 8511, remove crankshaft front seal.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes: are, a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See appropriate section for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general) CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer to «DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING»(ref-212815-S28810293192005122700000) ), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to «REMOVAL»(ref-212815-S29364904822005122700000) ).

Check the connecting rod journal for excessive wear, taper and scoring (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bending.

Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to STANDARD PROCEDURE ).

Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks and/or deterioration.

Scheme 201

Scheme 202

1. Before installing piston and connecting rod assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
2. Immerse the piston head and rings in clean engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston and rings. Tighten ring compressor. Ensure position of rings do not change during this operation.
3. Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting rod. Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
4. Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod Guides into connecting rod bolt threads.
5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore surface with an raised "F" indicating installation position. This mark must be pointing toward the front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connecting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine.
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer handle. While at the same time, guide connecting rod into position on rod journal. CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components: Cylinder head(s). (Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-212815-S41354626732005122700000) ,). Timing chain and cover. (Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-212815-S42844273362005122700000) ). Cylinder head covers (Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-212815-S41354626732005122700000) ,). Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-212815-S35464668972005122700000) ).
11. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
12. Connect negative cable to battery.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat, inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.

Air Leak Detection Test Method

1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for «REAR SEAL AREA LEAK»(ref-212815-S28968733492005122700000) .
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.

INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general) CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION

Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.

To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.

1. Position vehicle on level surface.
2. With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
3. Wipe dipstick clean.
4. Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
5. Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
6. Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.

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Scheme 208

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface. If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor. If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
6. Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body. If the measurement is 0.235mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
7. Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner and outer rotors. If the clearance between the rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
8. Place a straight edge across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of .095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced. NOTE: The 4.7 Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an assembly.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPM is observed the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Scheme 209

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the wiper module (Refer to «MODULE-WINDSHIELD WIPER»(ref-212806-S16497299482005122700000) ).
3. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
4. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
5. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
6. Disconnect brake booster hose and positive crank-case ventilation (PCV) hose.
7. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
8. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
9. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
10. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers (Refer to «COIL-IGNITION»(ref-238310-S20637200592006072400000) ).
11. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
12. Bleed fuel system. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE»(ref-564649-S02344868012013070500000) .
13. Remove fuel rail. Refer to «RAIL-FUEL»(ref-564649-S05060031812013070500000) .
14. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
15. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to «DRAINING COOLING SYSTEM - ALL ENGINES»(ref-212747-S18408552002005122700000) ).
16. Remove the heater hoses from the engine front cover and the heater core.
17. Unclip and remove heater hoses and tubes from intake manifold.
18. Remove coolant temperature sensor (Refer to «SENSOR-ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE»(ref-212747-S16545540332006072400000) .)
19. Remove intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
20. Remove intake manifold.

1. Inspect the intake sealing surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.
2. Inspect the intake manifold vacuum hose fittings for looseness or blockage.
3. Inspect the manifold to throttle body mating surface for cracks, nicks and distortion.

Scheme 210

1. Install intake manifold gaskets.
2. Position intake manifold.
3. Install intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in sequence shown in to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left and right radio suppressor straps.
5. Install throttle body assembly.
6. Install throttle cable bracket.
7. Connect throttle cable and speed control cable to throttle body.
8. Install fuel rail. Refer to «RAIL-FUEL»(ref-564649-S05060031812013070500000) .
9. Install ignition coil towers (Refer to «COIL-IGNITION»(ref-238310-S20637200592006072400000) ).
10. Position and install heater hoses and tubes onto intake manifold.
11. Install the heater hoses to the heater core and engine front cover.
12. Connect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor Ignition coil towers Fuel injectors
13. Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
14. Connect generator electrical connections.
15. Connect Brake booster hose and Positive crank-case ventilation (PCV) hose.
16. Fill cooling system (Refer to «REFILLING COOLING SYSTEM»(ref-212747-S15342466592005122700000) ).
17. Install the wiper module (Refer to «MODULE-WINDSHIELD WIPER»(ref-212806-S16497299482005122700000) ).
18. Install resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
19. Connect negative cable to battery.

1. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks in the mating surface and at every mounting bolt hole.
2. Using a straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the mating surface for warp and twist.
3. Inspect the manifold to exhaust pipe mating surface for cracks, gouges, or other damage that would prevent sealing.