4.7L Engine - Service Information: Other Dodge Dakota III рестайлинг

PERFORMANCE

MECHANICAL

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Note. The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Note. Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs and record the cylinder number of each spark plug for future reference.
3. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for abnormal firing indicators such as fouled, hot, oily, etc.
4. Disable the fuel system. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure»(ref-352671-S16879298692010010600000) and perform the fuel system pressure release procedure.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. NOTE: The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test. NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE test.

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression, While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

ENGINE CORE AND OIL GALLERY PLUGS

Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug. With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug.

Scheme 307

Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.

It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.

ENGINE GASKET SURFACE PREPARATION

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and Multi-Layer Steel cylinder head gaskets.

Note. Multi-Layer Steel head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.

Scheme 308

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces

1. Metal scraper
2. Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block and head
3. High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a wire brush

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces

1. Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
2. Plastic or wood scraper
3. Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow)

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II

Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV

Mopar® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER

Mopar® Gasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® GASKET SEALANT

Mopar® Gasket Sealant is a slow drying, permanently soft sealer. This material is recommended for sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and machined parts under all temperatures. This material is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS) cylinder head gaskets. This material also will prevent corrosion. Mopar® Gasket Sealant is available in a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.

CYLINDER HEAD

The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylinder heads.

VALVE GUIDES

The valve guides are made of powered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are

1. Loss of engine power
2. Engine misfiring
3. Poor fuel economy

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are

1. Engine overheating
2. Loss of coolant
3. Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
4. Coolant foaming

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CLEANING

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components. See Engine - Standard Procedure

Scheme 309

1. Inspect the cylinder head for out-of-flatness, using a straightedge (2) and a feeler gauge (1). Check Cylinder head in several locations. If tolerances exceed 0.0508 mm (0.002 in.) replace the cylinder head.
2. Inspect the valve seats for damage. Service the valve seats as necessary.
3. Inspect the valve guides for wear, cracks or looseness. If either condition exist, replace the cylinder head.

Scheme 310

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale, the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 311

Scheme 312

Scheme 313

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts (11 - 14) require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M11 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD Tighten bolts 1 - 10 to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Verify that bolts 1 - 10 have all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 14 N.m (89 in. lbs.). Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90°. Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90° again. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs).
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear and position the gear onto the camshaft.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the left side secondary chain guide. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Installation»(ref-352672-S34973044202010010600000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
10. Install the cylinder head access plug (2).
11. Reset and Install the left side secondary chain tensioner. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Installation»(ref-352672-S34973044202010010600000) . 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429
12. Remove Special Tool 8429 (6).
13. Install the timing chain cover. See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Installation»(ref-352672-S36478797042010010600000) .
14. Install the crankshaft damper. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Installation»(ref-352672-S38058646432010010600000) .
15. Install the power steering pump.
16. Install the fan blade assembly and fan shroud. ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE 1 Cover Fasteners 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)
17. Install the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352672-S37322004902010010600000) .
18. Reinstall the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/BOOSTER, Power Brake - Installation»(ref-352626-S31423129492010010600000) . Refer to «Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/MASTER CYLINDER, Brake - Installation»(ref-352626-S39404600522010010600000) .
19. Install the intake manifold. See «Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Installation»(ref-352672-S14449817722010010600000) .
20. Refill the cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000) .
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the left exhaust manifold.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 314

Note. The cylinder head bolts are tightened using a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked down (2) the bolts should be replaced.

Necking (2) can be checked by holding a straight edge against the threads. If all the threads do not contact the scale (2), the bolt should be replaced.

Scheme 315

Scheme 316

Scheme 317

1. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces.
2. Position the new cylinder head gasket on the locating dowels. CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
3. Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over the locating dowels. NOTE: The four M8 cylinder head mounting bolts (11 - 14) require sealant to be added to them before installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
4. Lubricate the cylinder head bolt threads with clean engine oil and install the ten M10 bolts.
5. Coat the four M8 cylinder head bolts with Mopar® Thread Sealant with PTFE then install the bolts. NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using an angle torque procedure.
6. Tighten the bolts in sequence using the following steps and torque values: 1 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD 2 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD Tighten bolts 1 - 10 to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.). Verify that bolts 1 - 10 have all reached 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.), by repeating step 1 without loosening the bolts. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 14 N.m (89 in. lbs.). Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90°. Rotate bolts 1 - 10 an additional 90° again. Tighten bolts 11 - 14 to 26 N.m (19 ft. lbs).
7. Position the secondary chain onto the camshaft drive gear, making sure one marked chain link is on either side of the V8 mark on the gear (2) and position the gear onto the camshaft.
8. Install the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
9. Install the right side secondary chain guide. See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Installation»(ref-352672-S36478797042010010600000) . 1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG 2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
10. Install the right side cylinder head access plug (1).
11. Reset and install the right side secondary chain tensioner. 1 - LOCK ARM 2 - RIGHT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 3 - SECONDARY CHAINS RETAINING PINS (4) 4 - IDLER SPROCKET 5 - LEFT CAMSHAFT CHAIN 6 - SPECIAL TOOL 8429
12. Remove Special Tool 8429 (6).
13. Install the timing chain cover. See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Installation»(ref-352672-S36478797042010010600000) .
14. Install the crankshaft damper. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Installation»(ref-352672-S38058646432010010600000) .
15. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation»(ref-352638-S14708432792010010600000) .
16. Install the fan shroud. ITEM DESCRIPTION TORQUE 1 Cover Fasteners 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.)
17. Install the cylinder head cover (1). See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352672-S37322004902010010600000) .
18. Install the intake manifold. See «Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Installation»(ref-352672-S14449817722010010600000) .
19. Install oil fill housing onto cylinder head.
20. Refill the cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000) .
21. Raise the vehicle.
22. Install the exhaust pipe onto the right exhaust manifold.
23. Lower the vehicle.
24. Reconnect battery negative cable.
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Clean cylinder head cover gasket surface.

Clean head rail, if necessary.

Scheme 318

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs).
4. Install right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
5. Install spark plug wires (3).
6. Install the oil fill tube.
7. Install PCV hose.
8. Install heater hoses.
9. Install air conditioning compressor retaining bolts.
10. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation»(ref-352638-S14708432792010010600000) .
11. Fill Cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000) .
12. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
13. Connect battery negative cable.

Scheme 319

1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all studs are in the correct location as shown in illustration.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.).
4. Install left side breather and connect breather tube.
5. Install the spark plug wires (3).
6. Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
7. Connect negative cable to battery.

HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.

1. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
2. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
3. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.

Scheme 320

Note. Disconnect the battery negative cable to prevent accidental starter engagement.

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352672-S29916106832010010600000) .
2. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 3 and 5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
3. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 2 and 8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke.
4. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 4 and 6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression stroke.
5. For rocker arm removal on cylinders 1 and 7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression stroke.
6. Using special tool 8516A Rocker Arm Remover (2), press downward on the valve spring, remove rocker arm.

Scheme 321

Note. Coat the rocker arms with clean engine oil prior to installation.

1. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 3 and 5 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC exhaust stroke.
2. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 2 and 8 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #1 is at TDC compression stroke.
3. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 4 and 6 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #3 is at TDC compression stroke.
4. For rocker arm installation on cylinders 1 and 7 Rotate the crankshaft until cylinder #2 is at TDC compression stroke.
5. Using valve spring compressor 10102 press downward on the valve spring, install rocker arm.
6. Install the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352672-S37322004902010010600000) .

REFACING

Note. Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.

Note. When refacing valves (4) and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

1. Using a suitable dial indicator measure the center of the valve seat. Total run out must not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 in).
2. Apply a small amount of Prussian blue to the valve seat, insert the valve into the cylinder head, while applying light pressure on the valve rotate the valve. Remove the valve and examine the valve face. If the blue is transferred below the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat using a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat using a 65 degree stone.
3. When the seat is properly positioned the width of the intake seat must be 1.75 - 2.36 mm (0.0689 - 0.0928 in.) and the exhaust seat must be 1.71 - 2.32 mm (0.0673 - 0.0911 in.).
4. Check the valve spring (6) installed height after refacing the valve and seat. The installed height for both intake and exhaust valve springs must not exceed 40.74 mm (1.6039 in.)
5. The valve seat and valve face must maintain a face angle of 44.5 - 45° angle.

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out

1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 322

Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring. Check the bearings for normal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue and pitting. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.

Inspect the connecting rod journals for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.

Misaligned or bent connecting rods can cause abnormal wear on pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, connecting rod bearings and crankshaft connecting rod journals. If wear patterns or damage to any of these components indicate the probability of a misaligned connecting rod, inspect it for correct rod alignment. Replace misaligned, bent or twisted connecting rods.

Scheme 323

Scheme 324

Scheme 325

1. Wipe the oil from the connecting rod journal. 1 - Connecting Rod 2 - Bearing Insert - A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
2. Lubricate the upper bearing insert (2) and install in connecting rod (1). Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod. 1 - "F" TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE 2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT 3 - RING COMPRESSOR 4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
3. Use piston ring compressor (3) and Guide Pins Special Tool 8507 (4) to install the rod and piston assemblies. The oil slinger slots in the rods must face front of the engine. The "F"s near the piston wrist pin bore should point to the front of the engine. 1 - Connecting Rod 2 - Bearing Insert - A, B less then .50 mm (.0196 in.)
4. Install the lower bearing insert in the bearing cap Center bearing insert (2) in connecting rod (1). . The lower insert must be dry. Place strip of Plastigage across full width of the lower insert at the center of bearing cap. Plastigage must not crumble in use. If brittle, obtain fresh stock.
5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the journal and tighten bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the width of compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to «4.7L»(ref-352672-S26878566802010010600000) Specifications for the proper clearance. Plastigage should indicate the same clearance across the entire width of the insert. If the clearance varies, it may be caused by either a tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign material trapped between the insert and cap or rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the Plastigage (2) from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation. Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH JOURNAL SIZE 025 US 025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm - (.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.) Std. STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm (2.0076-2.0082 in.) 250 US 250 mm (.010 in.) 50.758-50.742 mm (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which service bearing set to use, using the chart above. CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.

Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to 4.7L Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance is not within specification.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008 mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005 mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Scheme 326

The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft position sensor target wheel has grade identification marks stamped into it (3). These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel (2) is mounted to the number 8 counter weight (1) on the crankshaft.

Note. Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (grade) the bearing is.

Scheme 327

Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.

Note. If any of the crankshaft journals are scored, the crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.

Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.

Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.

Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves. CAUTION: Do not remove the piston pin from the piston and connecting rod assembly.

REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See appropriate component service information for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-352672-S26860420392010010600000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. See «LUBRICATION»(ref-352672-S28233561002010010600000) under the OIL LEAK row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified. See «Engine/Engine Block/SEAL, Crankshaft Oil - Removal»(ref-352672-S39646067552010010600000) .

Scheme 328

Note. This procedure can be performed in vehicle.

1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmission.
2. Remove the flexplate. See «Engine/Engine Block/FLEXPLATE - Removal»(ref-352672-S13513532412010010600000) . NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused after removal. NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover 8506 must be installed deeply into the seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
3. Using Seal Remover 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1).

Scheme 329

Scheme 330

1. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
2. Position the magnetic seal guide 8349-2 onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) onto the guide (2). 1 - REAR CRANKSHAFT SEAL 2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8349-1 INSTALLER 3 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4171 HANDLE
3. Using Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installer 8349 (2) and Driver Handle C-4171 (3), with a hammer, tap the seal (1) into place. Continue to tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
4. Install the flexplate.
5. Install the transmission.

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the cooling fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 331

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
11. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the through bolts CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
14. Remove the cooling fan.
15. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts (2).
16. Remove the engine mount bolts (1), and the mounts (2).

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the cooling fan.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mount brackets (2) to the engine.
2. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
4. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
5. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots.
6. Loose assemble the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
7. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
8. Torque the nuts for the through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Torque the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the oil drain trough.
11. Install the engine oil filter.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Install the cooling fan.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 332

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount (1).
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember (2).
6. Remove the mount (1).

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase.
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level. NOTE: Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

Scheme 333

Scheme 334

Scheme 335

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture (1) special tool 8534B Do not raise engine at this time.
3. Remove both left and right side engine mount through bolts.
4. Remove the structural dust cover.
5. Drain engine oil. CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake manifold.
6. Raise engine using special tool (1) 8534B to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: On 4WD vehicles, the front axle must be lowered, to provide clearance for oil pan removal. It is not necessary to remove the front axle from the vehicle, or remove the axle shafts.
7. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the pinion bracket.
8. For 4WD Vehicles Disconnect the front driveshaft at the front axle.
9. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the front axle mounting bolts.
10. For 4WD Vehicles Lower axle using suitable jack enough to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
11. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
12. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
13. Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket and replace as needed.

Scheme 336

Scheme 337

Scheme 338

1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the bedplate and oil pan.
2. Position the oil pan gasket and pickup tube with new o-ring. Install the mounting bolt and nuts. Tighten bolt and nuts to 28 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
3. Position the oil pan and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown in illustration.
4. Lower the engine into mounts using special tool (1) 8534B
5. Install both the left and right side engine mount through bolts. Tighten the bolts to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
6. Remove special tool 8534B
7. Install structural dust cover. NOTE: On 4WD vehicles, the front axle must be lowered, to provide clearance for oil pan removal. It is not necessary to remove the front axle from the vehicle, or remove the axle shafts.
8. For 4WD Vehicles Raise axle using suitable jack.
9. For 4WD Vehicles Install the front axle mounting bolts.
10. For 4WD Vehicles Install the pinion bracket.
11. For 4WD Vehicles Install the front driveshaft to the front axle.
12. Fill engine oil.
13. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
14. Start engine and check for leaks.

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.

Scheme 339

Scheme 340

Scheme 341

Scheme 342

Scheme 343

Scheme 344

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
2. Lay a straight edge across the pump cover surface (3). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge (2) can be inserted between the cover and the straight edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Measure the thickness of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
4. Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
5. Measure the thickness of the inner rotor. If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005 mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - FEELER GAUGE 2 - OUTER ROTOR
6. Slide outer rotor (2) into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure clearance between the outer rotor and the body. If the measurement is 0.235 mm (0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - OUTER ROTOR 2 - FEELER GAUGE 3 - INNER ROTOR
7. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer (1) rotors. If the clearance between the rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - STRAIGHT EDGE 2 - FEELER GAUGE
8. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge (2) of .095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump must be replaced. NOTE: The 3.7L/4.7L Oil pump is released as an assembly. There are no Chrysler part numbers for Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an assembly.

1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable cleaning solvent, then allow to air dry.
2. Clean all gasket residue from the manifold mating surface.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below engine compartment.
2. Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
3. Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust manifold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at center and working outward to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
4. Install exhaust manifold heat shield. Tighten fasteners to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees.
5. Install starter and fasteners.
6. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
7. Connect heater hoses at engine.
8. Install fastener attaching A/C accumulator.
9. Install A/C compressor and fasteners.
10. Install accessory drive belt. Refer to «Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Installation»(ref-352638-S14708432792010010600000) .
11. Install air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
12. Install battery and connect cables.
13. Fill cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000) .

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Install exhaust manifold and gasket from below engine compartment.
2. Install lower exhaust manifold fasteners. DO NOT tighten until all fasteners are in place.
3. Lower vehicle and install upper exhaust manifold fasteners. Tighten all manifold bolts starting at center and working outward to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
4. Install exhaust manifold heat shield . Tighten fasteners to 8 N.m (72 in. lbs.), then loosen 45 degrees.
5. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold.
6. Connect negative cable to battery.

INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPM is observed the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Scheme 345

Scheme 346

1. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
2. Bleed fuel system. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure»(ref-352671-S16879298692010010600000) .
3. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) (2) Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
5. remove spark plug wires (3).
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect and remove ignition coils (1,2) and manifold retaining bolts.
8. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
9. Remove fuel rail. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Removal»(ref-352671-S40994759792010010600000) .
10. Remove intake manifold.

Note. There is NO approved repair procedure for the intake manifold. If severe damage is found during inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.

Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning solvent, then air dry.

ENGINE TIMING VERIFICATION

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

1. Remove the cylinder head covers. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352672-S29916106832010010600000) .
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow on the front cover. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
3. Note the location of the V8 mark stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V8 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1) on the exhaust stroke. If the V8 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC (cylinder #1) on the compression stroke.
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing»(ref-352672-S20234521172010010600000) .
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to «SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING»(ref-352672-S23705758412010010600000) .
6. If both camshaft drive gear V8 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o' clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.

SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING

Note. to adjust the timing on one camshaft, perform the following procedure.

Scheme 347

1. Using Chain Tensioner Wedge 9867 (3), stabilize the secondary chain drive. For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position.
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt using Spanner Wrench 6958 (2) with Adapter Pins 8346.
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear from the camshaft.
4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V8 mark is at the same position as the V8 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear. NOTE: When gripping the camshaft, place the pliers on the tube portion of the camshaft only. Do not grip the lobes or the sprocket areas.
5. Using a Camshaft Holder 8428A (1), rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over-torqueing of bolt resulting in bolt failure.
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Spanner Wrench 6958 (2) with Adapter Pins 8346 and a suitable torque wrench (1), Tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
7. Remove special tool 9867(3,4).
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then reverify that the camshaft drive gear V8 marks are in fact aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352672-S37322004902010010600000) .

Scheme 348

Scheme 349

Scheme 350

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Drain cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000) .
3. Remove right and left cylinder head covers. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352672-S29916106832010010600000) .
4. Remove radiator fan shroud.
5. Rotate engine until timing mark (2) on crankshaft damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover (2) (#1 cylinder exhaust stroke). NOTE: With the crankshaft damper timing mark aligned as in the previous step, the camshaft sprocket "V8" marks should also be at the 12 o'clock position (1, 2).
6. Remove power steering pump. Refer to «Steering/Pump - Removal»(ref-352627-S04864218692010010600000) .
7. Remove access plugs (1,2) from left and right cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners.
8. Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener.
9. Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain cover. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Removal»(ref-352672-S11253457812010010600000) . See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Removal»(ref-352672-S23032294902010010600000) .
10. Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner (1). CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan opening.
11. Remove secondary chain tensioners.
12. Remove camshaft position sensor (3) from right cylinder head. CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage the camshaft target wheel. Do not hold the target wheel while loosening or tightening the camshaft sprocket. Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition. CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure the negative battery cable is disconnected and isolated to guard against accidental starter engagement.
13. Use Spanner Wrench 6958 (2) with Adapter Pins 8346 and remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
14. While holding the left camshaft with Camshaft Holder 8428A (1), remove the left camshaft sprocket (3). Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 15 degrees clockwise to a neutral position.
15. While holding the right camshaft with Camshaft Holder 8428A (1), remove the right camshaft sprocket (2). Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 45 degrees counterclockwise to a neutral position.
16. Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
17. Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and secondary chains.
18. Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
19. Remove chain tensioner.