3.7L Engine - Service Information: Other Dodge Dakota III рестайлинг

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Note. The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Note. Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs and record the cylinder number of each spark plug for future reference.
3. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for abnormal firing indicators such as fouled, hot, oily, etc.
4. Disable the fuel system. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure»(ref-352671-S16879298692010010600000) and perform the fuel system pressure release procedure.
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. NOTE: The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test. NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the cylinder combustion pressure leakage test. See «CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE»(ref-352641-S14168297362010010600000) .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating).
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket.
3. Any causes for combustion/compression pressure loss.

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO NOT install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it attains normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Set piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or equivalent.
3. Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size.

FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS AND SEALERS

Note. All of the sealants mentioned below are not used on every engine, they are listed as a general reference guide. See service information for specific sealer usage.

There are numerous places where form-in-place gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure obtaining the desired results. Do not use form-in-place gasket material unless specified. Bead size, continuity, and location are of great importance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket. All sealing surfaces that use form-in-place gaskets and sealers must free of grease or oil. Surfaces should be cleaned with Mopar® brake parts cleaner prior to sealer application. After the sealer is applied, the parts should be assembled in no more than 10 minutes.

There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket materials that are used in the engine area. Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II, Mopar® ATF-RTV, and Mopar® Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different properties and can not be used in place of the other.

MOPAR® ENGINE RTV GEN II is used to seal components exposed to engine oil. This material is a specially designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties when exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the material to cure. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® ATF RTV is a specifically designed black silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and sealing properties to seal components exposed to automatic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and moisture. This material is available in three ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year this material will not properly cure. Always inspect the package for the expiration date before use.

MOPAR® GASKET MAKER is an anaerobic type gasket material. The material cures in the absence of air when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic material is for use between two machined surfaces. Do not use on flexible metal flanges.

MOPAR® BED PLATE SEALANT is a unique (green-in-color) anaerobic type gasket material that is specially made to seal the area between the bed plate and cylinder block without disturbing the bearing clearance or alignment of these components. The material cures slowly in the absence of air when torqued between two metallic surfaces, and will rapidly cure when heat is applied.

CYLINDER HEAD

The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy. The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylinder heads.

VALVE GUIDE SEALS

The valve guide seals are made of rubber and incorporate an integral steel valve spring seat. The integral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication control to the valve stems.

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET

A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the adjacent water jacket.

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders are

1. Loss of engine power
2. Engine misfiring
3. Poor fuel economy

Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water jacket are

1. Engine overheating
2. Loss of coolant
3. Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from exhaust
4. Coolant foaming

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

HYDRAULIC LASH ADJUSTER

A tappet-like noise may be produced from several items. Check the following items.

1. Engine oil level too high or too low. This may cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause them to be spongy.
2. Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylinder head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be required.
3. Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes before restarting. Repeat this several times after engine has reached normal operating temperature.
4. Low oil pressure.
5. The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with debris.
6. Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked oil pump pick up.
7. Worn valve guides.
8. Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring retainer.
9. Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maximum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
10. Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylinder head.
11. Faulty lash adjuster.

1. Check lash adjusters for "sponginess" while installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster. Normal adjusters should feel firm when pressed quickly. When pressed very slowly, lash adjusters should collapse.
2. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
3. Before installation, make sure adjusters are full of oil. This can be verified by little plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed quickly.

Scheme 128

Scheme 129

Scheme 130

Scheme 131

Scheme 132

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the left exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000)
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold. See «Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal»(ref-352641-S18851709332010010600000) .
7. Remove the master cylinder and booster assembly. Refer to «Brakes/Hydraulic/Mechanical/BOOSTER, Power Brake - Removal»(ref-352626-S04485038132010010600000) .
8. Remove the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352641-S36660118732010010600000) .
9. Remove the fan shroud and fan blade assembly. Refer to «Cooling/Engine/FAN, Cooling - Removal»(ref-352638-S24236017272010010600000) .
10. Remove the accessory drive belt. Refer to «Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Removal»(ref-352638-S36887958812010010600000) .
11. Remove the power steering pump. Refer to «Steering/Pump - Removal»(ref-352627-S04864218692010010600000) .
12. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (2).
13. Verify the V6 timing mark (1) on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position, with the No. 1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
14. Remove the vibration damper. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Removal»(ref-352641-S26945380472010010600000) .
15. Remove the timing chain cover. See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S21086580242010010600000) .
16. Lock the secondary timing chains (2) to the idler sprocket using the Secondary Camshaft Chain Holder 8429 (1). NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
17. Mark the secondary timing chain (2), one link on each side of the V6 timing mark on the camshaft drive gear.
18. Remove the left side secondary chain tensioner. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) .
19. Remove the cylinder head access plug (1) and (2).
20. Remove the left side secondary chain guide. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) .
21. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. Severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. The locations are identified with an *. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
22. Using the sequence shown in illustration, remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
23. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket. CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.

RIGHT

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side exhaust manifold.
4. Drain the engine coolant. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000)
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the intake manifold. See «Engine/Manifolds/MANIFOLD, Intake - Removal»(ref-352641-S18851709332010010600000) .
7. Remove the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352641-S36660118732010010600000) .
8. Remove the radiator fan. Refer to «Cooling/Engine/FAN, Cooling - Removal»(ref-352638-S24236017272010010600000) .
9. Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
10. Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to «Cooling/Accessory Drive/BELT, Serpentine - Removal»(ref-352638-S36887958812010010600000) .
11. Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
12. Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft one turn if necessary.
13. Remove the crankshaft damper. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Removal»(ref-352641-S26945380472010010600000) .
14. Remove the timing chain cover. See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S21086580242010010600000) .
15. Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Holding Fixture. NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to removal to aid in installation.
16. Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
17. Remove the right side secondary chain tensioner. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) .
18. Remove the cylinder head access plug.
19. Remove the right side secondary chain guide. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) . CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed retorque nut to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
20. Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe damage to the valve train can occur. CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to remove the cylinder head without removing these four bolts. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel can result in a vehicle no start condition. NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder block with twelve bolts.
21. Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
22. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard the gasket. CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gasket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head sealing surface may prevent the gasket from properly sealing resulting in leaks.

CAMSHAFT - LEFT

Scheme 133

Scheme 134

1. Remove cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352641-S36660118732010010600000) .
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks (1) at the 12 o'clock position.
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in installation. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel (Located on the right side camshaft sprocket) for any reason, Severe damage will occur to the target wheel resulting in a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave the bolt snug against the sprocket. NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset tensioners. CAUTION: Do not force the wedge past the narrowest point between the chain strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position Wedge Locking Tool 8379 (1) between the timing chain strands, tap the tool to securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
6. Hold the camshaft with the Spanner Wrench 6958 and Adapter Pins 8346 while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt.
7. Using Camshaft Holder 8428 (2), remove the sprocket and gently allow the camshaft to rotate 5° clockwise until the camshaft is in the neutral position (no valve load).
8. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps. CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS. NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
9. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.

CAMSHAFT - RIGHT

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352641-S36660118732010010600000) .
2. Set engine to TDC cylinder No. 1, camshaft sprocket V6 marks at the 12 o'clock position.
3. Mark one link on the secondary timing chain on both sides of the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket to aid in installation. CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft target wheel for any reason, Severe damage will occur to the target wheel. A damaged target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition.
4. Loosen but DO NOT remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt. Leave bolt snug against sprocket. NOTE: The timing chain tensioners must be secured prior to removing the camshaft sprockets. Failure to secure tensioners will allow the tensioners to extend, requiring timing chain cover removal in order to reset tensioners. CAUTION: Do not force wedge past the narrowest point between the chain strands. Damage to the tensioners may occur.
5. Position Tool 8379 timing chain wedge between the timing chain strands. Tap the tool to securely wedge the timing chain against the tensioner arm and guide.
6. Remove the camshaft position sensor.
7. Hold the camshaft with Spanner Wrench 6958 and Adapter Pins 8346 while removing the camshaft sprocket bolt.
8. Using Camshaft Holder 8428 (2), remove the sprocket and gently allow the camshaft to rotate 5° clockwise until the camshaft is in the neutral position (no valve load).
9. Starting at the outside working inward, loosen the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts 1/2 turn at a time. Repeat until all load is off the bearing caps. CAUTION: DO NOT STAMP OR STRIKE THE CAMSHAFT BEARING CAPS. SEVERE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR TO THE BEARING CAPS. NOTE: When the camshaft is removed the rocker arms may slide downward, mark the rocker arms before removing camshaft.
10. Remove the camshaft bearing caps and the camshaft.

Scheme 135

1. Lubricate the camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the left side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 1 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, (1 through 4) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward.
5. Tighten the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
7. Using the Camshaft Holder 8428A, rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
9. Remove the Wedge Locking Tool 8379.
10. Using Spanner Wrench 6958 with adapter pins 8346, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352641-S28358361472010010600000) .

Scheme 136

1. Lubricate camshaft journals with clean engine oil. NOTE: Position the right side camshaft so that the camshaft sprocket dowel is near the 10 o'clock position, This will place the camshaft at the neutral position easing the installation of the camshaft bearing caps.
2. Position the camshaft into the cylinder head.
3. Install the camshaft bearing caps, hand tighten the retaining bolts. NOTE: Caps should be installed so that the stamped numbers on the caps are in numerical order, (1 thru 4) from the front to the rear of the engine. All caps should be installed so that the stamped arrows on the caps point toward the front of the engine.
4. Working in 1/2 turn increments, tighten the bearing cap retaining bolts starting with the middle cap working outward as shown in illustration.
5. Torque the camshaft bearing cap retaining bolts to 11 N.m (100 in. lbs.).
6. Position the camshaft drive gear into the timing chain aligning the V6 mark between the two marked chain links (Two links marked during removal).
7. Using Camshaft Holder 8428A rotate the camshaft until the camshaft sprocket dowel is aligned with the slot in the camshaft sprocket. Install the sprocket onto the camshaft. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from the camshaft sprocket bolt. Failure to do so can cause bolt over-torque resulting in bolt failure.
8. Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket bolt, then install the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and hand tighten.
9. Remove timing chain wedge tool 8379.
10. Using Tool 6958 spanner wrench with adapter pins 8346, tighten the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. lbs.).
11. Install the camshaft position sensor.
12. Install the cylinder head cover. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352641-S28358361472010010600000) .

Scheme 137

The cylinder head covers (Scheme 137) (1,2) are made of glass re-enforced thermoset plastic, and are not interchangeable from side-to-side.

Scheme 138

Note. The gasket may be used again, providing no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the resonator assemble and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
4. Route injector harness in front of cylinder head cover (2).
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the cylinder head cover mounting bolts (1).
7. Remove cylinder head cover and gasket.

Scheme 139

Note. Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.

Note. The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

1. Clean the cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install the cylinder cover (2).
3. Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs (1) to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the left side breather and connect breather tube.
5. Connect the fuel injector electrical connectors and injector harness retaining clips.
6. Install the resonator and air inlet hose.
7. Connect negative battery cable.

CLEANING

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean out

1. The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. The front and rear oil galley holes.
3. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite® PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (177 in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (240 in. lbs.) torque.

Scheme 140

1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge (2) to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular (across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading.
3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
4. Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
7. If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

Scheme 141

The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft position sensor target wheel (2) has grade identification marks (3) stamped into it. These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4. The crankshaft position sensor target wheel (2) is mounted to the number 6 counter weight (1) on the crankshaft.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Remove the crankshaft from the cylinder block. See Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT - Removal .

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008 mm (0.0004 inch.) and maximum out of round is 0.005 mm (0.002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block. See Engine/Engine Block/CRANKSHAFT - Installation .

Check crankshaft end play.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION

1. Service main bearings are available in four grades. The chart below identifies the four service grades available.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.

REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See appropriate component service information for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-352641-S33517049642010010600000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. See «ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE»(ref-352641-S36111132542010010600000) under the OIL LEAK row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified. See «Engine/Engine Block/SEAL, Crankshaft Oil - Removal»(ref-352641-S13313115602010010600000) .

Scheme 142

Note. This procedure can be performed in vehicle.

1. If being preformed in vehicle, remove the transmission. Refer to «Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - 45RFE/545RFE - Removal»(ref-352643-S11626406962010010600000) .
2. Remove the flexplate. See «Engine/Engine Block/FLEXPLATE - Removal»(ref-352641-S29942292672010010600000) . NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal (1) CAN NOT be reused after removal. NOTE: The Seal Remover 8506 (2) must be installed deeply into the seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Failure to install tool correctly the first time will cause tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from engine.
3. Using Seal Remover 8506 (2) , remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1).

Scheme 143

Scheme 144

1. Lubricate the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
2. Position the Seal Installer 8349-2 (2) onto the crankshaft rear face. Then position the crankshaft rear oil seal (1) onto the guide.
3. Using the Seal Installer 8349 (2) and Universal Drive Handle C-4171 (3), with a hammer, tap the seal (1) into place. Continue to tap on the driver handle until the seal installer seats against the cylinder block crankshaft bore.
4. Install the flexplate. See «Engine/Engine Block/FLEXPLATE - Installation»(ref-352641-S23516962952010010600000) .
5. Install the transmission. Refer to «Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - 45RFE/545RFE - Installation»(ref-352643-S38957606722010010600000) .

2WD

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
2. Remove the cooling fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the engine oil filter.
5. Remove the oil drain trough.
6. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
7. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
8. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
9. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
10. Lower the front axle.
11. Remove the through bolts
12. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts.
13. Remove the mount to engine attaching bolts
14. Remove the engine mounts.

Scheme 145

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the viscous fan.
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the skid plate.
5. Remove the front crossmember.
6. Remove the engine oil filter.
7. Remove the oil drain trough.
8. Support the engine with a suitable jack and a block of wood across the full width of the engine oil pan.
9. Support the front axle with a suitable jack.
10. Remove the bolts that attach the engine mounts to the front axle.
11. Remove the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
12. Lower the front axle.
13. Remove the through bolts CAUTION: Remove the viscous fan before raising engine. Failure to do so may cause damage to the fan blade, fan clutch and fan shroud.
14. Remove the cooling fan.
15. Raise the engine far enough to be able to remove the left and right engine mounts (2).
16. Remove the engine mount bolts (1), and the mounts (2).

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block bolts. Torque bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the cooling fan.
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 146

Note. For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts, apply Mopar® Lock and Seal Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.

1. Install the right and left side engine mount brackets (2) to the engine.
2. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the front axle. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
4. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the through bolts.
5. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on the through bolts, and the lower engine bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle slots.
6. Loose assemble the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket.
7. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
8. Torque the nuts for the through bolts to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Torque the bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracket to 101 N.m (75 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the oil drain trough.
11. Install the engine oil filter.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Install the cooling fan.
14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Scheme 147

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount (1).
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the mount from the crossmember (2).
6. Remove the mount (1).

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or de-grease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD.

Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.

If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See appropriate component information for proper repair procedures of these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-352641-S33517049642010010600000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. See «ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE»(ref-352641-S36111132542010010600000) under the OIL LEAK row, for components inspections on possible causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, refer to «Engine/Engine Block/SEAL, Crankshaft Oil - Removal»(ref-352641-S13313115602010010600000) .

Scheme 148

All engines are equipped with a high quality full-flow, disposable type oil filter (1). Chrysler Corporation recommends a Mopar® or equivalent oil filter be used.

1. Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
2. Using a suitable oil filter wrench, loosen the filter.
3. Rotate the oil filter (1) counterclockwise to remove it from the cylinder block oil filter boss.
4. When filter separates from cylinder block oil filter boss, tip gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove filter from vehicle. NOTE: Make sure filter gasket was removed with filter.
5. With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing surface of oil and grime.

Scheme 149

1. Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket (2) with clean engine oil.
2. Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket makes contact with sealing surface (1), hand tighten filter (3) one full turn, do not over tighten.
3. Add oil, verify crankcase oil level and start engine. Inspect for oil leaks.

Scheme 150

The engine oil level indicator (2) is located at the right rear of the engine on the 3.7L engines.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals described in Maintenance Schedules.

Run engine until achieving normal operating temperature.

1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn engine off.
2. Hoist and support vehicle on safety stands.
3. Remove oil fill cap.
4. Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase drain.
5. Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow oil to drain into an oil drain pan. Inspect drain plug threads for stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug if damaged.
6. Install drain plug in crankcase. Torque to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).
7. Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified type and amount of engine oil.
8. Install oil fill cap.
9. Start engine and inspect for leaks.
10. Stop engine and inspect oil level.

USED ENGINE OIL DISPOSAL

Care should be exercised when disposing used engine oil after it has been drained from a vehicle engine. Refer to the WARNING at beginning of this section.

Scheme 151

The engine oil pan (1) is made of laminated steel and has a single plane sealing surface. The sandwich style oil pan gasket has an integrated windage tray (2) and steel carrier. The sealing area of the gasket is molded with rubber and is designed to be reused as long as the gasket is not cut, torn or ripped.

Scheme 152

Scheme 153

Scheme 154

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Install engine support fixture (1) special tool 8534B. Do not raise engine at this time.
3. Remove both left and right side engine mount through bolts.
4. Remove the structural dust cover.
5. Drain engine oil. CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake manifold.
6. Raise engine using special tool (1) 8534B to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: On 4WD vehicles, the front axle must be lowered, to provide clearance for oil pan removal. It is not necessary to remove the front axle from the vehicle, or remove the axle shafts.
7. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the pinion bracket.
8. For 4WD Vehicles Disconnect the front driveshaft at the front axle.
9. For 4WD Vehicles Remove the front axle mounting bolts.
10. For 4WD Vehicles Lower axle using suitable jack enough to provide clearance to remove oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket is integral to engine windage tray and does not come out with oil pan.
11. Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
12. Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove tube.
13. Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket and replace as needed.

1. Clean oil pan in solvent and wipe dry with a clean cloth.
2. Clean the oil pan gasket surface. DO NOT use a grinder wheel or other abrasive tool to clean sealing surface.
3. Clean oil screen and tube thoroughly in clean solvent.

RIGHT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).

LEFT EXHAUST MANIFOLD

1. Position the engine exhaust manifold and gasket on the two studs located on the cylinder head. Install conical washers and nuts on these studs.
2. Install remaining conical washers. Starting at the center arm and working outward, tighten the bolts and nuts to 25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the exhaust heat shields.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. CAUTION: Over tightening heat shield fasteners, may cause shield to distort and/or crack.
5. Assemble exhaust pipe to manifold and secure with bolts, nuts and retainers. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).

Scheme 155

The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features long runners which maximizes low end torque.

Scheme 156

The intake manifold (1) uses single plane sealing which consist of six individual press in place port gaskets (2) to prevent leaks. The throttle body attaches directly to the intake manifold.

INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKS

An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifold vacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may not be functioning.

1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water (spray bottle) at the suspected leak area.
3. If engine RPM'S change, the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.

Scheme 157

Scheme 158

Scheme 159

1. Bleed the fuel system. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery - Standard Procedure»(ref-352671-S16879298692010010600000) .
2. Disconnect the negative cable from battery.
3. Remove the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
4. Drain the cooling system below coolant temperature sensor level.
5. Disconnect the electronic throttle control (ETC) connector (3). 1 - MOUNTING SCREWS 2 - MAP SENSOR 3 - ECT SENSOR 4 - FRONT OF INTAKE MANIFOLD
6. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components: Coolant Temperature Sensor Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (2)
7. Disconnect vapor purge hose, brake booster hose, and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
8. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers.
9. Remove the top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt.
10. Remove the EGR tube (1). Refer to «Emissions Control/Exhaust Gas Recirculation/VALVE, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Removal»(ref-352639-S09815570572010010600000) .
11. Remove fuel rail. Refer to «Fuel System/Fuel Delivery/RAIL, Fuel - Removal»(ref-352671-S40994759792010010600000) . 1 - THROTTLE BODY 2 - MOUNTING BOLTS 3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
12. Remove throttle body assembly (1).
13. Remove the intake manifold retaining fasteners in reverse order of tightening sequence.
14. Remove the intake manifold.

Scheme 160

Scheme 161

Scheme 162

1. Install the intake manifold seals.
2. Install the intake manifold.
3. Install the intake manifold retaining bolts and tighten in sequence shown in illustration to 12 N.m (105 in. lbs.). 1 - THROTTLE BODY 2 - MOUNTING BOLTS 3 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR CAUTION: Proper torque of the throttle body is critical to normal operation. If the throttle body is over-torqued, damage to the throttle body can occur resulting in throttle plate malfunction.
4. Install the throttle body-to-intake manifold O-ring.
5. Install the throttle body (1) to intake manifold.
6. Install the four mounting bolts (2). Tighten bolts to 7 N.m (60 in. lbs.).
7. Install electrical connector (3).
8. Install the fuel rail.
9. Install the EGR tube (1). Refer to «Emissions Control/Exhaust Gas Recirculation/VALVE, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) - Installation»(ref-352639-S05601528012010010600000) .
10. Install ignition coil towers. 1 - MOUNTING SCREWS 2 - MAP SENSOR 3 - ECT SENSOR 4 - FRONT OF INTAKE MANIFOLD
11. Connect electrical connectors for the following components: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (2) Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor Ignition coil towers
12. Install top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt.
13. Connect Vapor purge hose, Brake booster hose, Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
14. Fill the cooling system.
15. Install the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
16. Connect the negative cable to battery.
17. Using the scan tool, perform the ETC Relearn function.

Scheme 163

The timing drive system has been designed to provide quiet performance and reliability to support a non-free wheeling engine. Specifically the intake valves are non-free wheeling and can be easily damaged with forceful engine rotation if camshaft-to-crankshaft timing is incorrect. The timing drive system consists of a primary chain, two secondary timing chain drives and a counterbalance shaft drive.

MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

Note. This procedure must be performed with the timing chain cover removed.

1. Remove the timing chain cover. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) .
2. To determine if the secondary timing chains are worn, rotate the engine clockwise until maximum tensioner piston extension is obtained. Measure the distance between the secondary timing chain tensioner housing and the step ledge on the piston. The measurement at point (A) must be less than 15 mm (0.5906 of an inch).
3. If the measurement exceeds the specification the secondary timing chains are worn and require replacement. See «Engine/Valve Timing/CHAIN and SPROCKETS, Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S24750492852010010600000) .

Scheme 164

Note. Components referred to as left hand or right hand are as viewed from the drivers position inside the vehicle.

Note. The blue link plates on the chains and the dots on the camshaft drive sprockets may not line up during the timing verification procedure. The blue link plates are lined up with the sprocket dots only when re-timing the complete timing drive. Once the timing drive is rotated blue link-to-dot alignment is no longer valid.

Engine base timing can be verified by the following procedure

Scheme 165

1. Remove the cylinder head covers. Refer to «COVER(S), Cylinder Head»(ref-352641-S18301494652010010600000) .
2. Using a mirror, locate the TDC arrow (2) on the front cover (1). Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft damper is aligned with the TDC arrow on the front cover. The engine is now at TDC.
3. Note the location of the V6 mark (1) stamped into the camshaft drive gears. If the V6 mark on each camshaft drive gear is at the twelve o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. If the V6 mark on each gear is at the six o'clock position, the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke.
4. If both of the camshaft drive gears are off in the same or opposite directions, the primary chain or both secondary chains are at fault. Refer to «TIMING CHAIN AND SPROCKETS»(ref-352641-S06720911402010010600000) .
5. If only one of the camshaft drive gears is off and the other is correct, the problem is confined to one secondary chain. Refer to «SINGLE CAMSHAFT TIMING»(ref-352641-S06720911402010010600000) .
6. If both camshaft drive gear V6 marks are at the twelve o'clock or the six o'clock position the engine base timing is correct. Reinstall the cylinder head covers.

Scheme 166

1. Ensure that the engine is at TDC with both camshaft sprocket V6 marks (1) in the 12 o'clock position.
2. Look down the left cylinder head chain cavity. The timing dot on the counter balance shaft drive gear should be in the 6 o'clock position (2).

Scheme 167

Note. to adjust the timing on one camshaft, preform the following procedure.

Scheme 168

Scheme 169

Scheme 170

1. Using the Wedge Locking Tool 8379 (2), stabilize the secondary chain drive (3). For reference purposes, mark the chain-to-sprocket position.
2. Remove the camshaft drive gear retaining bolt.
3. Carefully remove the camshaft drive gear (2) from the camshaft.
4. Re-index the camshaft drive gear in the chain until the V6 mark is at the same position as the V6 mark on the opposite camshaft drive gear.
5. Using Camshaft Holder 8428A (2), rotate the camshaft until the alignment dowel on the camshaft is aligned with the slot in the camshaft drive gear. CAUTION: Remove excess oil from camshaft sprocket retaining bolt before reinstalling bolt. Failure to do so may cause over tightening of the bolt, resulting in bolt failure.
6. Position the camshaft drive gear onto the camshaft, remove oil from bolt then install the retaining bolt. Using Spanner Wrench 6958 with Adapter Pins 8346 (4) and a suitable torque wrench (1), tighten retaining bolt to 122 N.m (90 ft. Lbs.).
7. Remove the Wedge Locking Tool 8379.
8. Rotate the crankshaft two full revolutions, then verify that the camshaft drive gear V6 marks are in fact aligned.
9. Install the cylinder head covers. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Installation»(ref-352641-S28358361472010010600000) .

Scheme 171

Scheme 172

Scheme 173

Scheme 174

Scheme 175

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Drain cooling system. Refer to «Cooling - Standard Procedure»(ref-352638-S04738368652010010600000)
3. Remove right and left cylinder head covers. See «Engine/Cylinder Head/COVER(S), Cylinder Head - Removal»(ref-352641-S36660118732010010600000) .
4. Remove radiator fan. Refer to «Cooling/Engine/FAN, Cooling - Removal»(ref-352638-S24236017272010010600000) .
5. Rotate engine until timing mark (2) on crankshaft damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover (1).
6. Make sure the camshaft sprocket "V6" marks (1) are at the 12 o'clock position (No. 1 TDC exhaust stroke).
7. Remove power steering pump. Refer to «Steering/Pump - Removal»(ref-352627-S04864218692010010600000) .
8. Remove access plugs (1 and 2) from left and right cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners.
9. Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener.
10. Remove crankshaft damper and timing chain cover. See «Engine/Engine Block/DAMPER, Vibration - Removal»(ref-352641-S26945380472010010600000) . See «Engine/Valve Timing/COVER(S), Engine Timing - Removal»(ref-352641-S21086580242010010600000) .
11. Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner. CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan opening.
12. Remove secondary chain tensioners.
13. Remove camshaft position sensor (2). CAUTION: Care should be taken not to damage the camshaft target wheel. Do not hold the target wheel while loosening or tightening the camshaft sprocket. Do not place the target wheel near a magnetic source of any kind. A damaged or magnetized target wheel could cause a vehicle no start condition. CAUTION: Do not forcefully rotate the camshafts or crankshaft independently of each other. Damaging intake valve to piston contact will occur. Ensure the negative battery cable is disconnected and isolated to guard against accidental starter engagement.
14. Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
15. While holding the left camshaft steel tube Camshaft Holder 8428A (2), remove the left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral position.
16. While holding the right camshaft steel tube with Camshaft Holder 8428A (2), remove the right camshaft sprocket.
17. Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
18. Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and secondary chains.
19. Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
20. Remove primary chain tensioner.