6.4L Engine - Service Information: Other Dodge Challenger III рестайлинг

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

The combustion pressure leakage test provides an accurate means for determining engine condition.

Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect

1. Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seating)
2. Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water jacket
3. Any causes for combustion and/or compression pressure loss

1. Check the coolant level and fill as required. Do not install the radiator cap.
2. Start and operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then turn the engine OFF.
3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Remove the oil filler cap.
5. Remove the air cleaner hose.
6. Calibrate the tester according to the manufacturer's instructions. The shop air source for testing should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1, 379 kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recommended.
7. Perform the test procedures on each cylinder according to the tester manufacturer's instructions. Position the piston of cylinder to be tested at TDC compression. While testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through the throttle body, tailpipe, and oil filler cap opening. Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.

All gauge pressure indications should be equal, with no more than 25% leakage between cylinders.

FOR EXAMPLE: At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pressure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be maintained in the cylinder.

Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART .

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE LEAKAGE

Note. The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.

Note. Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed air.
2. Remove the spark plugs and record the cylinder number of each spark plug for future reference.
3. Inspect the spark plug electrodes for abnormal firing indicators such as fouled, hot, oily, etc.
4. Perform the fuel system pressure release procedure. Refer to «FUEL DELIVERY, GAS, STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-489307-S24512055572012072600000) .
5. Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate the engine with the engine starter motor for three revolutions.
6. Record the compression pressure on the 3rd revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylinders. NOTE: The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
7. Compression should not be less than 689 kPa (100 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
8. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test. NOTE: If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question.
9. If one or more cylinders continue to have abnormally low compression pressures, perform the cylinder combustion pressure leakage test. Refer to «CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE»(ref-489306-S09951677452012072600000) .

TOP 19 REASONS THAT MAY LEAD TO ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

1. Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders The increased piston clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
2. Distorted Cylinders This may be caused by unequal heat distribution or unequal tightening of cylinder head bolts. This condition presents a surface which the rings may not be able to follow completely. In this case, there may be areas where the rings will not remove all of the excess oil. When combustion takes place, this oil will be burned and cause high oil consumption.
3. Improper operation of "PCV "system The main purpose of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. The PCV system usually has a one way check valve and a make up air source. The system uses rubber hoses that route crankcase blow by gases to the intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls the blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake air and fuel mixture. The PCV system can become clogged with sludge and varnish deposits and trap blow by gases in the crankcase. This degrades the oil, promoting additional formation of deposit material. If left uncorrected, the result is plugged oil rings, oil consumption, rapid ring wear due to sludge buildup, ruptured gaskets and seals due to crankcase pressurization.
4. Worn Piston Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered. Piston rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber.
5. Worn, Broken or Stuck Piston Rings When piston rings are broken, worn or stuck to such an extent that the correct tension and clearances are not maintained, this will allow oil to be drawn into the combustion chamber on the intake stroke and hot gases of combustion to be blown down the cylinder past the piston on the power stroke. All of these conditions will result in burning and carbon build up of the oil on the cylinders, pistons and rings.
6. Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping. This condition will lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement.
7. Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned.
8. Bent or Misaligned Connecting Rods Bent or misaligned connecting rods will not allow the pistons to ride straight in the cylinders. This will prevent the pistons and rings from forming a proper seal with the cylinder walls and promote oil consumption. In addition, it is possible that a bearing in a bent connect rod will not have uniform clearance on the connecting rod wrist pin. Under these conditions, the bearing will wear rapidly and throw off an excessive amount of oil into the cylinder.
9. Fuel Dilution If raw fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile and will result in higher oil consumption. The following conditions will lead to higher oil consumption; Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector Gasoline contaminated with diesel fuel Restricted air intake Excessive idling
10. Contaminated Cooling Systems Corrosion, rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator will prevent a cooling system from extracting heat efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion thus leading to higher oil consumption.
11. Oil Viscosity The use of oil with a viscosity that is too light may result in high oil consumption. Refer to the vehicle owner's manual for the proper oil viscosity to be used under specific driving conditions and/or ambient temperatures.
12. Dirty Engine Oil Failure to change the oil and filter at proper intervals may cause the oil to be so dirty that it will promote accumulation of sludge and varnish and restrict oil passages in the piston rings and pistons. This will increase oil consumption; dirty oil by nature is also consumed at a higher rate than clean oil.
13. Crankcase Overfull Due to an error in inserting the oil dip stick so that it does not come to a seat on its shoulder, a low reading may be obtained. Additional oil may be added to make the reading appear normal with the stick in this incorrect position which will actually make the oil level too high. If the oil level is so high that the lower ends of the connecting rods touch the oil in the oil pan excessive quantities of oil will be thrown on the cylinder walls and some of it will work its way up into the combustion chamber.
14. Excessively High Oil Pressure A faulty oil pressure relief valve may cause the oil pressure to be too high. The result will be that the engine will be flooded with an abnormally large amount of oil in a manner similar to that which occurs with worn bearings. This condition may also cause the oil filter to burst.
15. Aftermarket Performance Chips and Modification Increasing performance through the use of performance/power enhancement products to a stock or factory engine will increase the chance of excessive oil consumption.
16. Lugging Engine Lugging is running the engine at a lower RPM in a condition where a higher RPM (more power/torque) should be implemented. Especially susceptible on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission. This driving habit causes more stress loading on the piston and can lead to increases in engine oil consumption.
17. Turbocharged Engines There is a possibility for PCV "push-over" due to higher crankcase pressure (as compared to naturally aspirated engines) which is normal for turbocharged engines. This condition causes varying amounts of engine oil to enter the intake manifold, charge air cooler and associated plumbing to and from the charge air cooler, also a leaking turbocharger seal will draw oil into the combustion chamber where it will burn (blue smoke from tail pipe may be present) and form carbon deposits which contribute to further oil consumption as they interfere with proper engine function.
18. Restricted Air Intake Excessive restriction in the air intake system will increase engine vacuum and can increase oil consumption, an extremely dirty air filter would be one example of this situation.

Scheme 687

Due to the high amounts of failures cased by dust, dirt, moisture and other foreign debris being introduced to the engine during service. Covers or caps are needed to reduce the possible damage that can be caused or created.

Scheme 688

Covers over openings will reduce any possibilities for foreign materials to enter the engine systems. Using miller tool (special tool #10368, Set, Universal Protective Cap), Select the appropriated cover needed to the procedure.

Scheme 689

To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.

Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces

1. Metal scraper (1).
2. Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block and head.
3. High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a wire brush (2).

Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.

Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces

1. Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
2. Plastic or wood scraper (4).
3. High speed power tool with a plastic bristle brush style disc.

Sealing surfaces must be free of grease or oil residue. Clean surfaces with Mopar® brake parts cleaner (or equivalent).

REPAIR DAMAGED OR WORN THREADS

Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essentially, this repair consists of

1. Drilling out worn or damaged threads
2. Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap or equivalent
3. Installing a Heli-Coil insert into the tapped hole to bring the hole back to its original thread size

HYDROSTATIC LOCK

When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock (regardless of what caused the problem), follow the steps below.

Scheme 690

Scheme 691

Scheme 692

1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable (1).
2. Lift the engine cover retaining grommets off the ball studs and remove the engine cover (2).
3. Place a shop towel around the fuel supply line Quick Connect Fitting to catch any fuel that may be under pressure and disconnect the fuel supply line. Refer to «FITTING, QUICK CONNECT, STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-489307-S24042286862012072600000) .
4. Loosen the air duct retaining clamp (1) at the throttle body.
5. Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor electrical connector (2).
6. Remove the makeup air hose (3) at the air cleaner housing.
7. Remove the air cleaner housing retaining bolt (4).
8. While lifting up the air cleaner housing (5), slide the air duct off the throttle body and remove the air cleaner housing from the vehicle.
9. Inspect the air duct, air cleaner housing and the intake manifold to make sure the system is dry and clear of any foreign material.
10. Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure in the cylinder head.
11. Remove the spark plugs. Refer to «SPARK PLUG, REMOVAL»(ref-489335-S12198759412012072600000) .
12. With the spark plugs removed, rotate the crankshaft using a breaker bar and socket.
13. Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel, oil, etc.).
14. Make sure all fluid has been removed from the cylinders.
15. Repair engine or components as necessary to prevent this problem from occurring again.
16. Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will help prevent engine damage on restart.
17. Install new spark plugs. Refer to «SPARK PLUG, INSTALLATION»(ref-489335-S15557627382012072600000) .
18. Perform the Engine Oil Service procedure. Refer to «Engine/Lubrication/OIL - Standard Procedure»(ref-489306-S41425978112012072600000) .
19. Connect negative battery cable and tighten nut to 5 N.m (45 in. lbs.).
20. Start the engine and check for leaks.

COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD

Install Cooling System Tester (special tool #7700, Tester, Cooling System) or equivalent to pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure leak is evident.

CLEANING

Clean all surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder heads.

Clean the cylinder block front and rear gasket surfaces using a suitable solvent.

VALVE GUIDES

The valve guides are made of powdered metal and are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide reaming is not recommended. If the guides are worn beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.

STANDARD PROCEDURE - REFACING

Note. Valve seats that are worn or burned can be reworked, provided that the correct angle and seat width are maintained. Otherwise the cylinder head must be replaced.

Note. When refacing valves and valve seats, it is important that the correct size valve guide pilot be used for reseating stones. A true and complete surface must be obtained.

1. Measure the concentricity of the valve seat using a dial indicator. Total runout should not exceed 0.051 mm (0.002 inch.) total indicator reading.
2. Inspect the valve seat with Prussian blue to determine where the valve contacts the seat. To do this, coat the valve seat with Prussian blue then set the valve in place. Rotate the valve using light pressure. If the blue is transferred to the center of the valve face, contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the top edge of the valve face, lower the valve seat with a 15 degree stone. If the blue is transferred to the bottom edge of the valve face, raise the valve seat with a 65 degree stone.
3. Refer to the below chart for the proper valve seat width, valve seat angle, valve face angle and valve spring height. VALVE SEAT, VALVE FACE AND SPRING HEIGHT CHART DESCRIPTION SPECIFICATION SEAT WIDTH INTAKE 0.94 - 1.04 mm 0.037 - 0.041 in. EXHAUST 1.16 - 1.26 mm 0.046 - 0.050 in. SEAT ANGLE (INT. AND EXT.) 44.5° - 45° FACE ANGLE INTAKE 45.5° - 46° EXHAUST 45° - 45.5° SPRING HEIGHT INTAKE 52.1 mm 2.051 in. EXHAUST 51.2 mm 2.016 in.
4. The valve seat must maintain an angle of 44.5° - 45.0°.
5. The valve face must maintain an angle of 45.5° - 46.0° for the Intake and 45° - 45.5° for the exhaust.

Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.

Use compressed air to clean the following

1. Gallery at the oil filter adaptor hole.
2. Front and rear oil gallery holes.
3. Feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.

Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil gallery plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 N.m (15 ft. lbs.). Tighten the 3/8 inch NPT plugs to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) and the coolant drain plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.).

Scheme 693

1. Clean the engine block thoroughly and check all core hole plugs for evidence of leaking and repair if necessary.
2. Examine the engine block and cylinder bores for cracks or fractures. NOTE: Check the engine block deck surface with a precision straightedge and feeler gauge. The surface irregularities should not exceed 0.09 mm (0.0035 in.). Check the deck surface from one end to the other with the precision straightedge positioned across corners and parallel to the block centerline up and down the deck.
3. Check the engine block deck (1) surfaces for flatness using a precision straightedge (2) and feeler gauge (3).

Scheme 694

1. Use Cylinder Indicator (special tool #C-119, Cylinder Indicator) (2) to correctly measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below the top of the bore (4). Start at the top of the bore, perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1).
3. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
4. Determine the taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
5. Rotate the measuring device 90° to point B (1) and repeat the three measurements. Verify that the maximum taper is within specifications.
6. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
7. If the cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.0127 mm (0.0005 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.008 mm (0.0003 inch) then the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds the maximum limits, replace the engine block.

Note. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.

Scheme 695

1. Wipe the main bearing inserts (1, 2) clean.
2. Inspect the inserts for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining.
3. Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapes or irregular wear patterns.
4. Inspect the insert locking tabs for damage.
5. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or blueing.
6. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
7. Inspect the main bearing bores for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
8. If the engine block main bearing bores show damage, replace the engine block.

MAIN BEARING JOURNAL DIAMETER (CRANKSHAFT REMOVED)

Crankshaft removed from the cylinder block.

Clean the oil off the main bearing journal.

Determine the maximum diameter of the journal with a micrometer. Measure at two locations 90° apart at each end of the journal.

The maximum allowable taper is 0.008 mm (0.0004 inch). The maximum out-of-round is 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch). Compare the measured diameter with the journal diameter specification (Main Bearing Fitting Chart). Select inserts required to obtain the specified bearing-to-journal clearance.

CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING SELECTION

The main bearings are "select fit" to achieve proper oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crankshaft counterweight has grade identification marks stamped into it. These marks are read from left to right, corresponding with journal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.

Note. Service main bearings are coded. These codes identify what size (color) the bearing is.

MAIN BEARING SELECTION CHART - 6.4L

5.7L / 6.4L - CAMSHAFT CORE HOLE PLUG

1. Clean the core hole in the cylinder block. NOTE: Do not apply adhesive to the new camshaft core hole plug. A new plug has adhesive pre-applied.
2. Install a new camshaft core hole plug (1) located at the rear of cylinder block, using a suitable flat faced tool. The plug must be fully seated on the cylinder block shoulder.
3. Install the flexplate. Refer to «FLEXPLATE, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S16829274462012072600000) .
4. Install the engine. Refer to «INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S14471305892012072600000) .

CAMSHAFT

1. Lubricate the camshaft lobes (1) and the camshaft bearing journals with clean engine oil.
2. Install a long bolt (2) into the front of the camshaft to aid in the installation, carefully install the camshaft into the engine block.
3. Install the camshaft thrust plate (1) and tighten retaining bolts to 12 N.m (106 in. lbs.).
4. Install the timing chain and camshaft phaser. Refer to «CHAIN AND SPROCKETS, TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S16597331112012072600000) .
5. Using a suitable dial indicator, measure the camshaft end play. Refer to «Engine - Specifications»(ref-489306-S10859875172012072600000) . If not within specification, install a new thrust plate.
6. Install the oil pump. Refer to «PUMP, ENGINE OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S42632413492012072600000) .
7. Install the engine timing cover. Refer to «COVER(S), ENGINE TIMING, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S08262132422012072600000) .
8. Raise and support vehicle.
9. Install the oil pump pickup tube (2) and oil pan. Refer to «PAN, OIL, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S00048912222012072600000) .
10. Install the A/C condenser (7). Refer to «CONDENSER, A/C, INSTALLATION»(ref-489295-S42749154412012072600000) .
11. Install the radiator (12). Refer to «RADIATOR, ENGINE COOLING, INSTALLATION»(ref-489282-S17741219642012072600000) .
12. Install the A/C compressor. Refer to «COMPRESSOR, A/C, INSTALLATION»(ref-489295-S31226373492012072600000) .
13. Install the generator. Refer to «GENERATOR, INSTALLATION»(ref-489323-S30038939662012072600000) . CAUTION: The 6.4L Multi Displacement System (MDS) engine uses both standard roller lifters and deactivating roller lifters. The deactivating roller lifters must be used in cylinders 1, 4, 6, 7. The deactivating lifters can be identified by the two holes in the side of the lifter body, for the latching pins. CAUTION: Whenever the camshaft is replaced, all lifters must be replaced. If the lifter and retainer assemblies are to be reused, identify the lifters to ensure installation in their original location or engine damage could result. CAUTION: The lifter and retainer assembly must be installed as a unit.
14. Install the lifters (2) and retainer (1) as an assembly into their original location. Refer to «LIFTER(S), HYDRAULIC, ROLLER, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S26810684722012072600000) .
15. Install both cylinder heads (2). Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S22487482382012072600000) .
16. Install the pushrods in the same location as removed.
17. Install the rocker arms. Refer to «ROCKER ARM, VALVE, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S26324103892012072600000) .
18. Install the cylinder head covers. Refer to «COVER(S), CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S10920129542012072600000) .
19. Install the accessory drive belt. Refer to «BELT, SERPENTINE, INSTALLATION»(ref-489282-S14236788572012072600000) .
20. Install the air cleaner housing (5) and clean air tube (1).
21. Install the negative battery cable.
22. Fill the cooling system with the specified type and amount of engine coolant. Refer to «STANDARD PROCEDURE»(ref-489282-S15090009642012072600000) .
23. Fill the crankcase with the specified type and amount of engine oil. Refer to «Engine/Lubrication/OIL - Standard Procedure»(ref-489306-S41425978112012072600000) .
24. Install engine covers (1).
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

HIGH

If oil level is above the FULL mark, it is possible for the connecting rods to dip into the oil. With the engine running, this condition could create foam in the oil pan. Foam in oil pan would be fed to the hydraulic lifters by the oil pump causing them to lose length and allow valves to seat noisily.

LOW

Low oil level may allow oil pump to take in air. When air is fed to the lifters, they lose length, which allows valves to seat noisily. Any leaks on intake side of oil pump through which air can be drawn will create the same lifter action. Check the lubrication system from the intake strainer to the pump cover, including the relief valve retainer cap. When lifter noise is due to aeration, it may be intermittent or constant, and usually more than one lifter will be noisy. When oil level and leaks have been corrected, operate the engine at fast idle. Run engine for a sufficient time to allow all of the air inside the lifters to be bled out.

1. Using a suitable cleaning solvent clean the pistons in warm water and towel dry.
2. Use a wood or plastic scraper to clean the ring land grooves.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

1. If removed, position the rear transmission mount bracket (2), install the retaining bolts (1) and tighten to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
2. Position the rear transmission mount isolator (3) to the rear transmission mount bracket (2), install the retaining bolts (1) and tighten to 33 N.m (24 ft. lbs.).
3. Position the transmission crossmember (4), install the retaining bolts (1, 3) finger tight.
4. Install the rear transmission mount isolator retaining bolts (2) finger tight.
5. Tighten the transmission crossmember retaining bolts (1, 3) to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
6. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
7. Tighten the rear transmission mount isolator retaining bolts (2) to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

MANUAL TRANSMISSION

1. Position the rear transmission mount isolator (2), install the retaining bolts (1) and tighten to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
2. Position the rear cross member, install the retaining bolts (2) finger tight.
3. Install the rear transmission mount isolator nuts (1) finger tight.
4. Tighten the transmission crossmember retaining bolts (2) to 68 N.m (50 ft. lbs.).
5. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
6. Tighten the rear transmission mount isolator retaining nuts (1) to 47 N.m (35 ft. lbs.).

Scheme 696

Scheme 697

Scheme 698

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (1).
2. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, INTAKE, REMOVAL»(ref-489306-S15645745872012072600000) .
3. Remove the engine oil dipstick tube retaining nut at the right exhaust manifold.
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Remove the belly pan retainers (1) and remove the belly pan. NOTE: Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.
6. Remove both left/right engine mount heat shield (4) retaining nuts (3) and remove the heat shields
7. Remove both left/right engine mount lower retaining bolts (2).
8. Lower the vehicle. NOTE: Do not use air tools to install the engine lift fixture.
9. Install the Engine Lift Fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1), Engine Lift Adapter (special tool #8984-UPD, Adapter, Engine Lift) (2) and the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (3).
10. Raise the engine to provide clearance to remove the engine mounts.
11. Raise and support the vehicle.
12. Remove the generator support bracket to engine mount retaining nut (1).
13. Remove the generator support bracket retaining bolt (2) and remove the support bracket (3). NOTE: Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.
14. Remove both left/right engine mount retaining bolts (1) and remove the engine mounts (2). NOTE: Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.
15. If necessary, remove both engine mount to engine block mounting bracket retaining bolts (1) and remove the mounting brackets (2).

CHECKING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE

1. Remove oil pressure sending unit and install gauge assembly (special tool #C-3292A, Gauge, Pressure).
2. Run engine until thermostat opens.
3. Check oil pressure gauge: Curb Idle - 25 kPa (4 psi) minimum 3000 rpm - 170 - 758 kPa (25 - 110 psi)
4. If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.

ENGINE OIL LEAK

Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak. If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the following steps should be followed

1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents may cause rubber to swell thus temporarily stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service information procedures.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspection. If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD below.

ENGINE OIL CHANGE

Change the engine oil at the mileage and time intervals described in the Maintenance Schedules. Refer to MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES, DESCRIPTION .

Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.

1. Remove the oil fill cap.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Remove the belly pan. Refer to «BELLY PAN, REMOVAL»(ref-489280-S30394301252012072600000) .
4. Place a suitable drain pan under the oil pan drain.
5. Remove the drain plug from the oil pan and allow the oil to drain.
6. Inspect the drain plug threads for stretching or other damage and replace if necessary.
7. Install the drain plug and tighten to 27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the belly pan. Refer to «BELLY PAN, INSTALLATION»(ref-489280-S17933819552012072600000) .
9. Lower the vehicle and fill the crankcase with the specified type and amount of engine oil described in this information.
10. Install the oil fill cap.
11. Start the engine and check for leaks.
12. Stop the engine and check the oil level.

Note. Care should be exercised when disposing of used engine oil.

Scheme 699

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (1).
2. Remove the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, INTAKE, REMOVAL»(ref-489306-S15645745872012072600000) .
3. Remove the engine oil dipstick and tube from the oil pan.
4. Raise and support the vehicle.
5. Remove the belly pan retainers (1) and remove the belly pan.
6. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. NOTE: Do not remove P/S hoses, tie rod ends or disconnect the steering column coupler.
7. Remove the steering gear mounting bolts (1) and lower the steering gear (2) to provide clearance to remove the oil pan. NOTE: Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.
8. Remove both left/right front engine mount heat shield retaining nuts (3) and remove the heat shields (4).
9. Remove both left/right front engine mount lower retaining bolts (2).
10. Lower the vehicle. NOTE: Do not use air tools to install engine lift fixture.
11. Install the Engine Lift Fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1), Engine Lift Adapter (special tool #8984-UPD, Adapter, Engine Lift) (2) and the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (3).
12. Raise the engine to provide clearance to remove the oil pan. NOTE: Do not pry on the oil pan or oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket is integral to the engine windage tray and does not come out with the oil pan. NOTE: The horizontal M10 retaining bolts (11, 12, 15, 18) are 5 mm longer in length then the vertical M10 retaining bolts (20, 21, 22, 23) and must be reinstalled in their original locations.
13. Raise and support the vehicle.
14. Remove the M10 retaining bolts (horizontal 11, 12, 15, 18 and vertical 20, 21, 22, 23) from the rear of the oil pan to the transmission.
15. Remove the M6 retaining bolts and remove the oil pan. NOTE: When the oil pan is removed, a new oil pan gasket and the integral windage tray assembly must be installed, the old gasket cannot be reused.
16. Remove the oil pump pickup tube retaining bolt and nut (1).
17. Remove the oil pump pickup tube (2).
18. Remove and discard the oil pan gasket/windage tray (3).

Scheme 700

Note. Mopar® Engine RTV must be applied to the 4 T-joints, the area where the front cover, rear retainer and oil pan gasket meet. The bead of RTV should cover the bottom of the gasket. This area is approximately 4.5 mm x 25 mm in each of the 4 T-joint locations.

Scheme 701

1. Clean the oil pan gasket mating surface of the engine block and oil pan.
2. Apply Mopar® Engine RTV at the 4 T- joints (1, 2). NOTE: When the oil pan is removed a new oil pan gasket and the integral windage tray assembly must be installed, the old gasket cannot be reused.
3. Install a new oil pan gasket/windage tray (3).
4. Using a new O-ring, position the oil pump pickup tube (2) into the oil pump.
5. Install the oil pump pickup tube retaining bolt and nut (1) and tighten to 28 N.m (21 ft. lbs.). NOTE: The horizontal M10 retaining bolts (11, 12, 15, 18) are 5 mm longer in length then the vertical M10 retaining bolts (20, 21, 22, 23) and must be reinstalled in their original locations. NOTE: New M6 retaining bolts must be used when reinstalling the oil pan. Do not reuse the old M6 retaining bolts.
6. Align the rear of the oil pan with the rear face of the engine block and install the M10 and M6 retaining bolts finger tight.
7. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the M6 retaining bolts to 5 N.m (44 in. lbs.).
8. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the M10 retaining bolts to 54 N.m (40 ft. lbs.).
9. Using the sequence shown in illustration, tighten the M6 retaining bolts to 12 N.m (9 ft. lbs.).
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Using the Engine Lift Fixture (special tool #8984B, Fixture, Engine Lifting) (1), Engine Lift Adapter (special tool #8984-UPD, Adapter, Engine Lift) (2) and the Engine Support Fixture (special tool #8534B, Fixture, Driveline Support) (3) lower the engine into position and remove.
12. Install the engine oil dipstick tube and dipstick.
13. Raise and support the vehicle. NOTE: Left side shown in illustration, right side similar.
14. Install both engine mount lower retaining bolts (2) and tighten to 61 N.m (45 ft. lbs.).
15. Position both engine mount heat shields (4) and install retaining nuts (3).
16. Position the steering gear (2), install mounting bolts (1) and tighten to 95 N.m (70 ft. lbs.).
17. Lightly lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil. NOTE: Do not over tighten the oil filter.
18. Thread the oil filter (1) onto the oil cooler (2) oil filter boss.
19. When the oil filter gasket makes contact with the oil cooler sealing surface, hand tighten the oil filter one half turn, or 180°.
20. Position the belly pan to the under side of vehicle and install belly pan retainers (1).
21. Lower the vehicle.
22. Install the intake manifold. Refer to «MANIFOLD, INTAKE, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S33067186472012072600000) .
23. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to «Engine/Lubrication/OIL - Standard Procedure»(ref-489306-S41425978112012072600000) .
24. Connect the negative battery cable (1).
25. Start the engine and check for leaks.

1. Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.
2. Using compressed air, carefully dry parts.

Scheme 702

Scheme 703

Scheme 704

1. Remove the pump cover.
2. Clean all parts thoroughly. The mating surface of the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the oil pump cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
3. Slide the outer rotor into the body of the oil pump. Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body and measure the clearance between the outer rotor (2) and the body. If the measurement is 0.235 mm (0.009 in.) or greater the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - OUTER ROTOR 2 - FEELER GAUGE 3 - INNER ROTOR
4. Install the inner rotor into the oil pump body. Measure the clearance between the inner (3) and outer (1) rotors. If the clearance between the rotors is 0.150 mm (0.006 in.) or greater the oil pump assembly must be replaced. 1 - STRAIGHT EDGE 2 - FEELER GAUGE
5. Place a straight edge (1) across the body of the oil pump (between the bolt holes), using a feeler gauge (2), measure the clearance between the straightedge and the rotors. If the clearance is 0.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater the oil pump must be replaced.
6. Install the pump cover and tighten retainers to 15 N.m (11 ft. lbs.)

Note. The 6.4L oil pump is serviced as an assembly. There are no Chrysler part numbers for sub-assembly components. In the event the oil pump is not functioning or out of specification it must be replaced as an assembly.

EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

Note. The left side shown in illustration. Right side similar.

Scheme 705

Scheme 706

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (1).
2. Remove cylinder head. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, REMOVAL»(ref-489306-S33144893502012072600000) .
3. Remove the exhaust manifold (2) top row of bolts (1).
4. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
5. Remove the exhaust manifold bottom row of bolts (1).

Clean the mating surfaces on cylinder head and manifold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Note. Left side shown in illustration. Right side similar.

1. Clean the sealing surfaces of the exhaust manifold and cylinder head.
2. Using a new exhaust manifold gasket, position the exhaust manifold (2).
3. Install the exhaust manifold bottom row of bolts (1) finger tight.
4. Install the exhaust manifold (2) top row of bolts (1) and tighten to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
5. Position the coolant bottle (1) and install the retaining bolts (2).
6. Raise and support the vehicle.
7. Tighten the exhaust manifold bottom row of bolts to 31 N.m (23 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the exhaust manifold heat shield.
9. Install the cylinder head. Refer to «CYLINDER HEAD, INSTALLATION»(ref-489306-S22487482382012072600000) .
10. Connect the negative battery cable (1).
11. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Scheme 707

The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features a dual shaft Short Runner Valve (SRV) system to maximize both low end torque and peak power. The SRV is bolted to the rear of the intake manifold and can be service separately from the manifold. The manifold uses a single plane sealing system with individual port seals and a separate PCV port seal to prevent leaks.

Note. There is NO approved repair procedure for the intake manifold. If severe damage is found during inspection, the intake manifold must be replaced.

Before installing the intake manifold thoroughly clean the mating surfaces. Use a suitable cleaning solvent, then air dry.