Valve noise
- Valve chatter after the car has been parked for longer than 48 hours. During a period of prolonged parking, oil drains out of the tappets' high-pressure chambers and allows air to get in. For a period of about 15 minutes after the engine has been started, valve chatter will be heard until the air has been purged from the valve tappets. Engine speed should not be allowed to exceed 3000 rpm until the noise has ceased. See point 4 .
- Valve chatter on starting the engine after an oil change. If valve chatter did not occur before the oil change it will disappear of its own accord when the engine's oil pressure reaches its normal operating level.
- Temporary noise on starting a cold engine. This noise is perfectly normal and will disappear of its own accord when the engine's oil pressure reaches its normal operating level.
- Valve chatter when the engine is started after work has been carried out on it involving turning it over by hand or on the starter motor. The noise is due to one or more of the tappets having been drained of oil and will therefore disappear when the engine has been running for a while. At worst, it may take up to 15 minutes at 2000-3000 rpm for it to disappear. At lower engine speeds it will take much longer to expel the air. At higher engine speeds there is a danger of damaging the valve tappets.
- Noise after fitting new valve tappets. Cause and rectification, see point 4 .
- Noise occurring after a short period of idling when the engine is hot. If the engine is run at 1 500 rpm or more, the noise will disappear after a while. The cause of this noise is low oil pressure in the hydraulic valve tappets at idling speed.
- Noise which occurs at high engine speeds and disappears when the engine has been idling for a shorter or longer period. This noise is due to an excessive amount of air in the oil at high engine speeds. The ingress of air is caused by leakage on the suction side of the oil pump, such as a leak in the suction pipe.
- Noise from an individual tappet, regardless of how the car is driven. The most likely cause is a particle of dirt having become trapped in the non-return valve of the tappet. The easiest way to identify a faulty tappet is to switch off the engine, remove the camshaft cover and press on all tappets not under load. The tappet that feels light (springy) or spongy is the faulty one. Replace the faulty tappet or tappets.
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Scheme 64
- Remove the power train, see «POWER TRAIN»(ref-274819-S33435773322007122400000)
- Zero the engine by turning the crankshaft in the engine's direction of rotation until the timing marks on the pulley and timing cover are aligned.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley.
- Remove the timing cover (not cylinder head) See «TIMING COVER»(ref-274819-S07234714552007122400000)
- Remove the top chain guide and chain tensioner for the balancer-shaft chain.
- Remove the pivoted balancer shaft chain guide.
- Remove the idler sprocket and balancer shaft chain.
- Check that the sprockets and chain guides are in good condition. Don't forget to check the fixed chain guide that is common to the timing and balancer shaft chains. Change any parts as necessary. Observe that the balancer shaft sprockets are different. Tightening torque, balancer shaft sprocket 25 Nm (18 lbf ft) Tightening torque, fixed guide for timing and balancer shaft chains 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
- Remove the sprockets from the balancer shafts.
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Scheme 66
- Check that the chain tensioner plunger is correctly positioned. If the plunger can be depressed fully it must be turned 180°.
- Turn the plunger on the balancer shaft chain tensioner 90°, press it in and turn it back 90°. Lock the tensioner in position by inserting a paperclip or similar into the hole on the top of the tensioner.
- Fit the chain tensioner with the pivoted chain guide. Tightening torque 10 Nm (7 lbf ft) IMPORTANT: Ii is very important for the function that the correct tightening torque is used when fitting.
- Fit the fixed chain guide. Tightening torque 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
- Align the marks on the balancer shafts with the marks on the top of each bearing housing.
- Fit the chain to the sprocket and fit this along with the idler sprocket. Tightening torque 25 Nm (18 lbf ft)
- Check the position of the balancer shafts and release the chain tensioner.
- Make sure there is a certain amount of play by pressing in the tensioner. Rotate the crankshaft one revolution and then check that the setting is correct.
- Fit the timing cover. See «TIMING COVER»(ref-274819-S07234714552007122400000)
- Fit the belt pulley to the crankshaft. Tightening torque 175 Nm (130 lbf ft)
- Fit the power train into the car, see «POWER TRAIN»(ref-274819-S33435773322007122400000)
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- Remove the battery cover and the battery.
- Remove the battery tray.
- Open the expansion tank cap. WARNING: The cooling system is under pressure. Hot coolant and steam can escape. Open the cap slowly to release the pressure. Carelessness can cause eye and burn injuries
- Remove the upper engine cover.
- Remove the ignition discharge module and the spark plugs.
- Remove the crankcase ventilation pipe. Remove the connector to the solenoid valve.
- Remove the mass air flow sensor and the intake hose
- Remove the by-pass valve with pipe.
- Remove the camshaft cover.
- Raise the car and remove the front right wheel.
- Remove the right-hand belt circuit cover.
- Remove the right-hand wing liner.
- Zero the engine by turning the crankshaft in the engine's direction of rotation until the timing marks on the pulley and timing cover are aligned.
- Remove the engine lifting eye and the turbocharger intake pipe and solenoid valve.
- Remove the turbocharger heat shield.
- Remove the oxygen sensor connector and the cable tie.
- Remove the two upper nuts on the front exhaust pipe.
- Remove the nut to the right-hand engine pad.
- Remove the fan cowling.
- Raise the car.
- Remove the front spoiler shield.
- Drain off the coolant.
- Position a receptacle under the car and drain the engine oil.
- Remove the oil filter.
- Undo the oil pipe on the oil filter adapter housing.
- Remove the front exhaust pipe.
- Remove the front torque arm. Front bracket with through bolt: Remove from below. Other: Remove from above. Cars with rear torque arm: Remove the torque arm.
- Remove the protective cover between the engine and gearbox.
- Detach the crankcase ventilation hose and remove the oil sump. Raise the engine slightly using a column jack. Place a wooden block in between.
- Fit a «83 94 868 FLYWHEEL LOCKING ATTACHMENT»(ref-274819-S08616750162007122400000) on the starter ring gear.
- Lower the car and position a jack under the engine and raise it slightly at the AC compressor. Place a wooden block in between.
- Remove the bracket to the right-hand engine mounting and the engine pad.
- Fit «83 95 238 WEDGES»(ref-274819-S35534301612007122400000) between the oil filter adapter and subframe, and between the inner drive shaft universal joint and subframe, and lower the engine. NOTE: Handle the drive shaft universal joint gaiter with care.
- Unload the belt tensioner and remove the multigroove belt.
- Remove the generator's lower bolt and the outer lower bolt which screws into the timing cover on the intermediate shaft bearing bracket.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley. NOTE: Check that the timing cover marking corresponds with the pulley before it is lifted off.
- Remove the crankshaft seal.
- Remove the oil pump. Use 82 93 086 CIRCLIP PLIERS ø 120-200 MM. Check for any damage.
- Remove the power steering pump from the bracket and move it aside.
- Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket.
- Remove the hose clips and hoses on the coolant pump inlet.
- Detach the two longitudinal coolant pipes from the engine block.
- Detach the two longitudinal coolant pipes from the coolant pump.
- Undo the coolant pipe bolt slightly (at the turbocharger) from the coolant pump.
- Remove the coolant pipe from the coolant pump.
- Undo the coolant pump retaining bolts.
- Carefully work the pump free from the bracket and from the pump's connecting piece on the engine block.
- Remove the connection sleeve from the cylinder block.
- Remove the AC bracket right-hand upper bolt which screws into the timing cover.
- Remove the two bolts in the subframe holding the front torque arm. (On relevant models)
- Remove the nut on the rear engine mounting.
- Man: Lock 4th gear by inserting «87 92 335 LOCK PIN»(ref-274821-S17274404782007122400000) . Undo the clamp slightly and pull the selector rod out of the linkage.
- Unload the left-hand engine pad by positioning a jack under the gearbox.
- Remove the left-hand engine pad.
- Man: Remove the gearbox mounting and the ground cable.
- Position a «83 95 238 WEDGE»(ref-274819-S35534301612007122400000) between the gearbox and subframe and lower the jack.
- Fit 83 96 178 Lifting eyes with bolt and washers or an M10 nut between the cylinder head and bracket.
- Connect an engine lift and raise the engine.
- Move the engine slightly to the left and remove the belt tensioner.
- Remove the idler pulley.
- Remove the generator upper retaining bolt. Move the generator aside.
- Remove the generator bracket.
- Remove the plug for the chain tensioner and the chain tensioner. Retain the spring and pin.
- Remove the camshaft sprockets.
- Remove the timing cover bolts. Move the engine to the left. Raise and lower the engine respectively to gain access to all bolts.
- Remove the timing cover. Move the engine to the left. Raise and lower respectively to remove the cover. NOTE: Handle the cylinder head gasket with care.
- Remove the upper guide and the chain tensioner for the balancer shaft chain.
- Remove the pivoted balancer shaft chain guide.
- Remove the idler pulley for the balancer shaft chain and the chain.
- Remove the fixed guide for the balancer shaft chain and timing chain. NOTE: The balancer shafts will move inwards in the engine when the balancer shaft pinion bolts are removed.
- Remove the balancer shaft pinions. Use the old balancer shaft chain as counterhold when removing by placing the chain around the crankshaft sprocket and balancer shaft pinion. Hold together with pliers.
- Fit the new pinions with the chain as counterhold. Tightening torque: 25 Nm (18 lbf ft) IMPORTANT: The pinion with the smaller thrust ring marked INL must be fitted on the inlet side and the pinion with the larger thrust ring marked EXH must be fitted on the exhaust side.
- Remove the oil pump driver and sprocket from the crankshaft.
- Remove the timing chain guard and remove the chain complete with sprocket.
- Remove the timing chain moving chain guide. Prise slightly to remove the guide.
- Clean the sealing surfaces of the oil sump and the timing cover, and wash the oil sump and the timing cover. Remove the baffle plate and suction strainer before washing.
- Replace the O-ring to the oil sump strainer.
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- Fit the timing chain moving chain guide. Prise slightly to fit the guide.
- Fit the timing chain pinion on the crankshaft.
- Fit the timing chain and camshaft sprockets according to the markings on the chain and wheel. Tightening torque: 63 Nm (46 lbf ft)
- Fit the fixed guide for the balancer shaft chain and timing chain. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
- Fit the chain tensioner. Tightening torque: 63 Nm (46 lbf ft)
- Fit the pin, spring and plug to the chain tensioner. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the timing chain safety guard.
- Fit the balancer shaft chain upper guide. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
- Check that the chain tensioner plunger is correctly positioned. If the plunger can be depressed fully it must be turned 180°.
- Turn the plunger on the balancer shaft chain tensioner 90°, press it in and turn it back 90°. Lock the tensioner in position by inserting a paperclip or similar into the hole on the top of the tensioner.
- Fit the chain tensioner and the moving chain guide. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7 lbf ft) WARNING: It is very important for the function that the correct tightening torque is used when fitting.
- Fit the balancer shaft chain pinion on the crankshaft.
- Align the marks on the balancer shafts with the marks on the top of each bearing housing.
- Fit the chain to the sprocket and fit this along with the idler sprocket. Tightening torque: 25 Nm (18 lbf ft)
- Check the setting of the balancer shafts and loosen the chain tensioner. Counterhold with the moving guide, remove the wire clip from the chain tensioner and slowly ease out the guide.
- Check that there is a small amount of play by pushing in the tensioner.
- Apply 90 297 970 Flange sealant in an approx. 1 mm thick line in the centre of the sealing surfaces according to the illustration. Apply a small dab of silicone flange sealant in the joins between the cylinder head and cylinder block.
- Fit the timing cover by carefully twisting it into place. Move the engine to the left and raise and lower respectively to fit the timing cover and the bolts. NOTE: Make sure that the cover does not make contact with the cylinder head gasket. Guide the gasket away with a screwdriver. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the oil pump driver.
- Make sure that the marking on the oil pump gear ring is facing outward and pump impeller with flange inward. Use a new O-ring, grease with Vaseline.
- Oil and fit the pump gears, fit the pump cover in correct position using the locating arrows.
- Fit the circlip with bevel facing outward and the opening downward. Fit a new crankshaft seal. Use «83 94 876 FITTING TOOL, CRANKSHAFT SEAL»(ref-274819-S36682801132007122400000) .
- Fit the crankshaft pulley. Tightening torque 175 Nm (129 lbf ft)
- Fit the bolt to the intermediate shaft bearing bracket.
- Fit the bolt to the AC compressor bracket.
- Fit the bolts for the generator bracket and the generator. Tightening torque, generator 47 Nm (35 lbf ft) Tightening torque, generator bracket 24 Nm (18 lbf ft)
- Fit the belt tensioner and the idler pulley. Tightening torque, belt tensioner 59 Nm (44 lbf ft) Tightening torque, idler pulley 47 Nm (35 lbf ft)
- Man: Fit the gearbox mounting. Tightening torque, man. 47 Nm (35 lbf ft)
- Fit the left-hand engine pad. Centre the engine pad to the bolt holes. Remove the wedge. Tightening torque bolts 40 Nm +45° (35 lbf ft +45°) Tightening torque, nut 84 Nm (62 lbf ft)
- Fit the main fuse box.
- Lower the engine on the wedges at the oil filter adapter and the drive shaft universal joint. Remove the lifting eye.
- Fit the connection sleeve to the cylinder block. Apply White high-pressure grease paste to the seals. Polish the seat in the cylinder block with a fine emery cloth and fit two new O-rings.
- Fit the coolant pump. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the coolant pipe to the coolant pump and the turbocharger. Tightening torque, banjo screw, turbocharger 25 Nm (18 lbf ft) Tightening torque, banjo screw, coolant pump 20 Nm (15 lbf ft)
- Fit the two longitudinal coolant pipes to the coolant pump. Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7 lbf ft)
- Fit the two longitudinal coolant pipes to the engine block.
- Fit the hose clips and hoses to the coolant pump inlet.
- Fit the intake manifold to the turbocharger with a new O-ring.
- Fit the bracket for the power steering pump and the power steering pump. Tightening torque 24 Nm (18 lbf ft)
- Fit the camshaft cover according to the fitting sequence in the illustration.
- Fit the spark plugs.
- Fit the engine lifting eye.
- Fit the fan cowling.
- Fit the multigroove belt in accordance with the indicated rotation direction.
- Fit the mass air flow sensor with hose and connector.
- Raise the engine and fit the right-hand engine mounting. Tightening torque: 47 Nm (35 lbf ft)
- Fit the engine mounting bracket. Do not fit the nut yet. Tightening torque, bolts 47 Nm (36 lbf ft)
- Fit the crankcase ventilation pipe.
- Fit the turbocharger solenoid valve and the connector.
- Fit the ignition discharge module without plugging in the connector.
- Raise the car and remove the flywheel locking attachment.
- Apply an approximately 2 mm thick bead of flange sealant, part no. 90 543 772 to the oil sump sealing surface.
- Check that the pipe to the oil adapter is firmly attached and that it is directed straight into the oil sump. Replace O-rings if necessary.
- Lift up and position the oil sump. Thread all the bolts.
- Tighten the oil sump bolts. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the crankcase ventilation hose.
- Fit the gearbox cover plate.
- Fit the oil filter and connect the oil pipes with new O-rings.
- Fit the front exhaust pipe. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the torque arm. Tightening torque, through bolt 90 Nm + 90° (66 lbf ft + 90°) Tightening torque, bracket 70 Nm + 90° (52 lbf ft + 90°)
- Lower the car and fit the nuts to the right-hand and rear engine pads. Tightening torque, rear 47 Nm (35 lbf ft) Tightening torque, right 105 Nm (78 lbf ft)
- Tighten the upper nuts on the exhaust pipe flange and plug in the connector to the heated oxygen sensor. Secure the cable with cable ties. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Fit the turbocharger heat shield.
- Fit the by-pass valve with pipe.
- Connect the gear linkage to the selector rod.
- Man: Engage 4th gear and fit «87 92 632 LOCK PIN»(ref-274821-S03623014062007122400000) in the gear-lever housing. Tighten the clamp on the gear linkage. Tightening torque 22 Nm (16 lbf ft)
- Remove the lock pins, check the gear positions and that the ignition key can be removed. Fit the plastic plug in the gearbox. Fit the gear lever gaiter.
- Fit the battery tray and the battery. Fit the battery cover. Connect the battery cables.
- Fit the upper engine cover.
- Raise the car and fit the spoiler shield.
- Fit the right-hand wing liner.
- Fit the belt circuit's cover.
- Fit the right wheel.
- Pressure test the cooling system.
- Fill with «COOLANT»(ref-274824-S28480320972007122400000) and close the expansion tank cap.
- Fill with engine oil.
- Run the starter motor until the oil pressure lamp goes out without the ignition discharge module connector being plugged in. Plug in the connector afterwards. NOTE: A diagnostic trouble code is generated after running the starter motor.
- Set the car clock and date.
- Calibrate the AC system by pressing in the AUTO and OFF buttons at the same time.
- Connect the diagnostic tool and erase the diagnostic trouble codes.
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Scheme 129
- Raise the car, turn the right-hand front wheel outwards and disconnect the power steering pump pipe from the subframe.
- Turn the crankshaft pulley round to the 0 mark and drive a «WEDGE 83 95 238»(ref-274819-S35534301612007122400000) between the oil sump and subframe.
- Remove the right-hand engine mounting with yoke.
- Take the strain off the «BELT TENSIONER WITH BELT TENSIONER RELIEVER 83 95 254»(ref-274819-S29901584512007122400000) and insert a 3 mm Allen key in the hole. IMPORTANT: Exercise the utmost care to ensure that the belt tensioner does not break at its end position!
- Unscrew the idler pulley's retaining bolt slightly.
- Remove the plug.
- Extract the locating pin and spring.
- Remove the chain tensioner, using a 27 mm socket.
Engine vibration
Through combustion, where chemical energy is converted into mechanical energy, gas forces are generated which act on the piston crown. The reciprocating movement of the pistons and connecting rods, combined with the rotation of the crankshaft, generate inertial forces that act on the engine block and cause it to vibrate in various ways. At low engine speeds these gas forces are greater than the inertial forces but at high engine speeds the converse is true. The most significant forces arise periodically once or twice per crankshaft revolution. They are known as first-order and second-order forces. The first-order inertial forces are completely cancelled out since the crankshaft is balanced and the two piston pairs, 1-4 and 2-3, reverse direction simultaneously when they reach top dead centre and bottom dead centre.