Intermittent
Faulty electrical connections or wiring may be the cause of intermittent conditions. Refer to TESTING FOR INTERMITTENT AND POOR CONNECTIONS in Wiring Systems.
Charging Time Required
The time required to charge a battery will vary depending upon the following factors
- The battery charger capacity; The higher the charger's amperage, the less time it will take to charge the battery.
- The state-of-charge of the battery; A completely discharged battery requires more than twice as much charging time as a half charged battery. In a discharged battery with a voltage below 11 volts, the battery has a very high internal resistance and may only accept a very low current at first. Later, as the charging current causes the acid content to increase in the electrolyte, the charging current will increase. Extremely discharged batteries may not activate the reversed voltage protection in some chargers. Refer to the manufacturers instructions for operating this circuitry.
- The temperature of the battery; The colder the battery is, the more time it takes to recharge the battery. The charging current accepted by a cold battery is very low at first. As the battery warms, the charging current will increase.
Charging Procedure
Note. Turn OFF the ignition when connecting or disconnecting the battery cables, the battery charger or the jumper cables. Failure to do so may damage the PCM or other electronic components.
Note. Refer to FASTENER NOTICE in Cautions and Notices.
When charging side-terminal batteries with the battery cables connected, connect the charger to the positive cable bolt and to a ground located away from the battery. When charging side-terminal batteries with the battery cables disconnected, install the battery side terminal adapters and connect the charger to the adapters.
Tighten
Tighten the battery side terminal adapters to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).
Use the following procedure to charge the battery
- Turn OFF the charger.
- Ensure that all of the battery terminal connections are clean and tight.
- Connect the charger positive lead to the battery positive terminal on the Battery or Fuse Block - Underhood. NOTE: Do not connect the negative charger lead to the housings of other vehicle electrical accessories or equipment. The action of the battery charger may damage such equipment.
- Connect the negative charger lead to a solid engine ground or to a ground stud in the engine compartment that is connected directly to the battery negative terminal, but away from the battery. If the negative battery cable is disconnected and a terminal adapter is being used, connect directly to the adapter.
- Turn ON the charger and set to the highest setting for normal charging.
- Inspect the battery every half hour after starting the battery charger. Charge the battery until the until the taper-rate charger indicates that the battery is fully charged. Estimate the battery temperature by feeling the side of the battery. If it feels hot to the touch or its temperature is over 45°C (125°F), discontinue charging and allow the battery to cool before resuming charging.
- After charging, test the battery. Refer to «BATTERY INSPECTION/TEST»(ref-189101-S33698689032005090600000) .
Tools Required
J 38758 Parasitic Draw Test Switch
Note. Do not turn the parasitic draw test switch to the OFF position with the engine running. Damage will occur to the vehicle's electrical system.
Note. The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse.
| IMPORTANT | The switch knob (1) on the J 38758 is marked ON and OFF. When the switch knob is in the ON position, the circuit is closed and electrical current will pass through the switch. When the switch knob is in the OFF position, the circuit is open and electrical current will not pass through the switch. |
Scheme 40
| CAUTION | Refer to BATTERY DISCONNECT CAUTION In Cautions and Notices. |
Scheme 41
Scheme 42
- Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery negative terminal.
- Install the male end of the J 38758 to the battery ground terminal.
- Turn the J 38758 knob (1) to the OFF position.
- Install the battery negative cable to the female end of the J 38758.
- Turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position.
- Road test the vehicle and activate all of the accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning.
- Park the vehicle. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position and remove the ignition switch key.
- Connect a 10 A fused jumper wire to the test switch tool terminals (1).
- Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current flows through the jumper wire.
- Wait 1 minute. If the fuse blows use an inductive ammeter to locate the current draw.
- Set a digital multimeter to the 10 A scale.
- Connect the digital multimeter to the test switch tool terminals (1).
- Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. The current flows through the digital multimeter.
- Wait 1 minute. Check and record the current reading. When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn the J 38758 knob to the ON position. The electrical current will now pass through the switch. Then, switch the digital multimeter down to the 2 A scale for a more accurate reading when the J 38758 knob is turned OFF.
- Turn the J 38758 knob to the OFF position. Wait 10 minutes.
- Check and record the current reading.
- Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to «Battery Usage Specifications»(ref-189101-S29233250942005092200000) . 17.1 Divide the reserve capacity by 4. 17.2 Compare this to the multimeter milliampere reading taken in the previous step. The parasitic current drain should not exceed this number. Example: If a battery has a reserve capacity of 100 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 25 mA.
- Check the charging system if the vehicle has an acceptable amount of current drain. . NOTE: The test switch must be in the ON position when removing the fuses in order to maintain continuity in the electrical system. This avoids damaging the digital multimeter due to accidental overloading, such as a door being opened to change a fuse.
- When the vehicle has an unacceptable amount of parasitic current drain, remove each fuse one at a time until the current drain falls to an acceptable level. This will indicate which circuit is causing the drain. Refer to «SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS»(ref-168596-S25874642212004111100000) to diagnose exactly which part of the suspect circuit is causing the parasitic drain. In some cases a non-fused circuit or component, such as a generator, is the cause of excessive parasitic current drain.
- Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed to make sure that the parasitic current drain is at an acceptable level.
- When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the J 38758.
- Connect the battery negative cable to the battery negative terminal. Tighten Tighten the negative battery cable terminal bolt to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).
A battery is not designed to last forever. With proper care, however, the battery will provide years of good service. If the battery tests good but still fails to perform well, the following are some of the more common causes
- A vehicle accessory was left on overnight.
- The driving speeds have been slow with frequent stops, stop-and-go driving, with many electrical accessories in use, particularly air conditioning, headlights, wipers, heated rear window, cellular telephone, etc.
- The electrical load has exceeded the generator output, particularly with the addition of aftermarket equipment.
- Existing conditions in the charging system, including the following possibilities: A slipping belt A bad generator
- The battery has not been properly maintained, including a loose battery hold down or missing battery insulator if used.
- There are mechanical conditions in the electrical system, such as a short or a pinched wire, attributing to power failure. Refer to GENERAL ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURES in Wiring Systems.
Electrolyte Freezing
The freezing point of electrolyte depends on its specific gravity. A fully charged battery will not freeze until the ambient temperature gets below -54°C (-65°F). However, a battery with a low state of charge may freeze at temperatures as high as -7°C (20°F). Since freezing may ruin a battery, the battery should be protected against freezing by keeping it properly charged. As long as the green eye is visible in the hydrometer, the freezing point of the battery will be somewhere below -32°C (-25°F).
Certain devices on the vehicle maintain a small continuous current drain, parasitic load, on the battery. A battery that is not used for an extended period of time will discharge. Eventually permanent damage will result. Discharged batteries will also freeze in cold weather. Refer to BATTERY INSPECTION/TEST .
In order to maintain the battery state of charge while storing the vehicle for more than 30 days
- Ensure that the green dot is visible in the built-in hydrometer. CAUTION: Refer to «BATTERY DISCONNECT CAUTION»(ref-175132-S30614301632005041500000) In Cautions and Notices.
- Disconnect the battery ground cable to protect the battery from discharge by parasitic current drains. When the battery cannot be disconnected
- Maintain a high state of charge.
- Establish a regular schedule for recharging the battery every 20-45 days.
A battery that has remained in a discharged state for a long period of time is difficult to recharge or may be permanently damaged.
Jump Starting in Case of Emergency
| CAUTION | Batteries produce explosive gases. Batteries contain corrosive acid. Batteries supply levels of electrical current high enough to cause burns. Therefore, in order to reduce the risk of personal Injury while working near a battery, observe the following guidelines |
- Always shield your eyes.
- Avoid leaning over the battery whenever possible.
- Do not expose the battery to open flames or sparks.
- Do not allow battery acid to contact the eyes or the skin. Flush any contacted areas with water immediately and thoroughly. Get medical help.
Note. This vehicle has a 12 volt, negative ground electrical system. Make sure the vehicle or equipment being used to jump start the engine is also 12 volt, negative ground. Use of any other type of system will damage the vehicle's electrical components.
Scheme 43
- Position the vehicle with the booster battery so that the jumper cables will reach. Do not let the 2 vehicles touch. Make sure that the jumper cables do not have loose ends, or missing insulation.
- Place an automatic transmission in PARK. If equipped with a manual transmission, place in NEUTRAL and block the wheels.
- Turn OFF all electrical loads on both vehicles that are not needed.
- Turn OFF the ignition on both vehicles.
- Connect the red positive (+) cable to the battery positive (+) terminal (2) of the vehicle with the discharged battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
- Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal (1) of the booster battery. Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
- Connect the black negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal (3) of the booster battery. CAUTION: Do not connect a jumper cable directly to the negative terminal of a discharged battery to prevent sparking and possible explosion of battery gases.
- The final connection is made to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part (4) of the vehicle with the discharged battery. This final attachment must be at least 46 cm (18 in) away from the dead battery.
- Start the engine of the vehicle that is providing the boost. NOTE: Never operate the starter motor more than 15 seconds at a time without pausing in order to allow it to cool for at least 2 minutes. Overheating will damage the starter motor.
- Crank the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery.
- The black negative (-) cable must be first disconnected from the vehicle that was boosted (4).
- Disconnect the black negative (-) cable from the negative (-) terminal (3) of the booster battery. NOTE: Do not let the cable end touch any metal. Damage to the battery and other components may result.
- Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the positive (+) terminal (1) of the booster battery.
- Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the remote positive (+) terminal (2) of the vehicle with the discharged battery.
Cold Cranking Amperage
The cold cranking amperage is an indication of the ability of the battery to crank the engine at cold temperatures. The cold cranking amperage rating is the minimum amperage the battery must maintain for 30 seconds at -18°C (0°F) while maintaining at least 7.2 volts. Refer to Battery Usage Specifications for the cold cranking amperage rating for this vehicle.