Glass: Removal & Installation — Honda Insight ZE2 (2009-2011)

Windshield Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surface. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.

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Scheme 31: Windshield Replacement

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Remove these items: Hood hinge cover (see «COWL COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-360286-S15719891662010042800000) ). Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-360319-S33833545002010042800000) ). A-pillar trim, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(ref-360313-S37122268822010042800000) ). Roof moldings, both sides (see «ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(ref-360286-S00545952402010042800000) ).
Remove the molding (A) from the edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife.
If you are reinstalling the old windshield, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil.
Pull down the front portion of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-360313-S21929008092010042800000) ). Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body. Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
Carefully remove the windshield.
With a utility knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dams and upper clips from the body.
Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the clean surface.
If the old windshield is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the upper clips and the rubber dams from the windshield. Clean the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Attach rubber dam A, rubber dam B, rubber dam C, rubber dam D, and the upper clips (E) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the windshield (F) as shown: Be sure the rubber dams and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (G). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the edge of the windshield (C): Be sure each corner of the molding lines up with the ones of the windshield. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Set the windshield (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure the upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
Remove the windshield.
With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: With the printed dots (D) on the windshield as a guide, apply glass primer to the bottom (E) of the windshield. Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not get the body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface.
With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. Mask off the dashboard before painting the flange.
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) to the windshield (B) along the edge of the molding (C) and rubber dams (D) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner. Apply glass primer to the bottom (E) of the windshield. Apply glass primer to the molding.
Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 13, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the windshield, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant: Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly. Keep the windshield dry for the first hour after installation.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. Install the rearview mirror after the adhesive has dried thoroughly. Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Upper Rear Window Replacement

Special Tools Required

KTC Trim Tool Set SOJATP2014*

*Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection when removing the glass with piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details. Do not damage the upper rear window defogger grid lines and terminals. Use glass adhesive set P/N 08C73-X0230N Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when removing components.

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Scheme 41: Upper Rear Window Replacement

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Remove these items: Hatch side trim both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - HATCH AREAS»(ref-360313-S14256358292010042800000) ). Hatch spoiler (see «HATCH SPOILER REPLACEMENT»(ref-360286-S36396350212010042800000) ). Rear wiper motor (see «INSTALLATION»(ref-360314-S12481601992010042800000) ).
Remove the upper seal (A) from the edge of the upper rear window. If necessary, cut the upper seal with a utility knife.
Remove the antenna terminal cover (A). Carefully insert the appropriate trim tool. Use the trim tool to gently pry the cover up partially to detach the hooks (C, D), then rotate the cover, and detach the hook (E). NOTE: Do not pry the glass surface with any tools.
Disconnect the hatch ground connector (A) and the upper rear window defogger connectors (B).
Pull the upper rear window molding (A), then remove it.
If you are reinstalling the old window, make alignment marks across the glass and the body with a grease pencil.
Apply protective tape along the inside and the outside edges of the hatch. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner portion of the window. Push the piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the hatch, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire window. Cutting positions
Carefully remove the window.
With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the fasteners from the hatch.
Clean the hatch bonding surface with a sponge dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface.
If the old window is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the fasteners, and the rubber dams from the window. Clean the inside face and the edge of the window with isopropyl alcohol where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Attach the upper seal (A) with adhesive tape along the upper edge of the upper rear window (B): Before installing the upper seal, apply primer to the area where its adhesive tape will be stuck to the inside face of the window. Be sure the upper seal with the alignment marks (C) on the upper edge of the window.
Attach rubber dams A and B and the fasteners (C, D) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the upper rear window (E) as shown. Before installing the rubber dams and fasteners, apply primer to the area where the adhesive tape will be stuck to the inside face of the window. Be sure the rubber dams and the fasteners align with the alignment marks (F). Be careful not to touch the window where adhesive will be applied.
Attach the fasteners (A) to the hatch as shown.
Set the upper rear window (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Be careful no to touch the window where adhesive will be applied.
Remove the window.
With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer to the upper rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Using the printed dots (C) on the window as a guide, apply the glass primer to both corner portions of the window. Do not apply body primer to the window, and do not get the body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the window properly, causing a leak after the window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
Before filling a cartridge, cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) as shown.
Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) to the upper rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Using the printed dots (D) on the window as a guide, apply the adhesive to both side portions of the window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
Use suction cups to hold the window over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 16, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close the doors until the adhesive is dry.
Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the window, use a soft shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the upper rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after the window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Lower Rear Window Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seat. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details. Do not damage the lower rear window defogger grid lines and terminals. Use glass adhesive set P/N 08C73-X0230N

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Scheme 55: Lower Rear Window Replacement

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Remove these items: Hatch lower trim panel (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - HATCH AREAS»(ref-360313-S14256358292010042800000) ). Hatch spoiler (see «HATCH SPOILER REPLACEMENT»(ref-360286-S36396350212010042800000) ). Rear license trim (see «REAR LICENSE TRIM REPLACEMENT»(ref-360286-S08679523962010042800000) ).
Remove the lower rubber dam (A) from the edge of the lower rear window (B). If necessary, cut the rubber dam with a utility knife.
Disconnect the lower rear window defogger connectors (A).
Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the hatch. Make holes with an awl through the upper and lower adhesive from inside the vehicle at 300 mm (11.8 in) from both sides of the lower rear window.
Pass the piano wire (A) through the lower side of the adhesive (B) Push the piano wire through the hole from outside the vehicle. Push the piano wire between the clip bases (C) and the adhesive in three places. Push the piano wire out through the hole from inside the vehicle, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
Hold a piece of wood, and with a helper on the other side, pull back the piano wire (A) to carefully cut through the adhesive.
Pass the piano wire (A) through the upper side of the adhesive (B). Push the piano wire through the hole from outside the vehicle. Push the piano wire between the fastener (C) and the adhesive (D) in three places. Push the piano wire out through the hole from inside the vehicle, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
Hold a piece of wood, and with a helper on the other side, pull back the piano wire (A) to carefully cut through the entire window adhesive.
Release the clips that hold the lower rear window (A), then carefully remove the window.
Remove the seal from the upper edge of the window.
With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire window opening flange. Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding.
Clean the hatch bonding surface with a sponge dampened in neutral detergent. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
If the clips (A) and the fastener (B) are damaged or stress-whitened, replace them with new ones.
If the old window is to be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the clips, and the rubber dams from the window. Clean the inside face and the edge of the window with neutral detergent where new adhesive is to be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
Attach the rubber dam (A), the fastener (B), and the clips (C) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the window (D) as shown: Be sure the rubber dam, the fastener, and the clips line up with the alignment marks (E). Be careful not to touch the window where adhesive will be applied.
Attach the lower rubber dam (A) with adhesive tape to the upper edge of the window (B). Be careful not to touch the window where adhesive will be applied.
With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of to the window (A) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Using the printed dots (B) on the window as a guide, apply glass primer to the bottom (C) of the window. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the window properly, causing a leak after the window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surface.
With a sponge, apply a light coat of body primer to the original adhesive remaining around the window opening flange. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
Cut a "V" in the end of the adhesive cartridge nozzle (A) as shown.
Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) to the lower rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Using the printed dots (D) on the window as a guide, apply the adhesive to both side portions of the window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
Use suction cups to hold the window over the opening, align the clip, and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the window until its clips snap into place securely and its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove the adhesive from a painted surface or the window, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the lower rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after the window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Antenna Terminal Base Replacement