Starting System: Diagnosis Honda Insight ZE2

Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

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Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*

*Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F (15-38 °C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise the PCM will continue to stop the injectors from functioning. Select PCM reset using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) (see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ). The 12 V battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC 3131) to the battery as shown. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK. Go to step 3. NO -If the tester indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the tester indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 under «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(ref-360279-S26970937392010042800000) ).
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM, If it does not communicate with the PCM, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(ref-360284-S14481644492010042800000) ).
6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS STOP on the HDS.
7. Turn the battery module switch OFF (see «DISCONNECTING THE MOTOR POWER CABLE CONNECTOR FROM THE MOTOR STATOR»(ref-360262-S00529659112010042800000) ).
8. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in N or P, turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 31 . NO -Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 31 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 28 . If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following. Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch Damaged torque converter ring gear
11. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-360274-S09784809262010042800000) ).
12. Make sure the transmission is in P or N, and set the parking brake. Disconnect the BLK/WHT harness connector (A) from the starter solenoid S terminal (B). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 13. NO -Remove the starter, and repair or replace it as necessary.
13. Check the No. 44 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES -Reinstall the No. 44 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 14. NO -Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM.
14. Remove the starter cut relay from the under-dash fuse/relay box, and test it (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-360281-S09266277742010042800000) ). Is the relay OK? YES -Go to step 15. NO -Replace the starter cut relay.
15. Check the ignition switch (see «PARK PIN SWITCH TEST»(ref-360282-S22671495522010042800000) ). Is the ignition switch OK? YES -Go to step 16. NO -Replace the ignition switch.
16. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III). Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 17. NO -Repair an open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
17. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
18. Check for continuity between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES -Repair a short to ground in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. NO -Go to step 19.
19. Connect the BLK/WHT harness connector to the starter solenoid S terminal.
20. Connect the starter cut relay 4P socket terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 21. NO -Repair an open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
21. Remove the jumper wire.
22. Measure the voltage between starter cut relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III). Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 23. NO -Replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
23. Reinstall the starter cut relay.
24. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). NOTE: This must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
25. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P).
26. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A12 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III). Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 27. NO -Repair an open in the LT GRN wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and PCM connector terminal A12. If the wire is OK, replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
27. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A7 and body ground with the ignition switch in START (III). Is there battery voltage? YES -Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software (see «PCM UPDATE»(ref-360284-S30758408212010042800000) ), or substitute a known-good PCM (see «SUBSTITUTING THE PCM»(ref-360279-S07789660702010042800000) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM (see «PCM REPLACEMENT»(ref-360284-S39322714792010042800000) ). NO -Repair an open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the PCM connector terminal A7.
28. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery.
29. Do the STARTER TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 350 A? YES -Go to step 30. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Drag in the starter armature Shorted armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
30. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
31. Select PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(ref-360279-S22973070982010042800000) ) to cancel ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
32. Turn the battery module switch ON (see «DISCONNECTING THE MOTOR POWER CABLE CONNECTOR FROM THE MOTOR STATOR»(ref-360262-S00529659112010042800000) ).
33. If the IMA battery level indicator displays no level, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm without load (in P or N) until the level in the indicator is half full.

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-360278-S07582280902010042800000) ).
2. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
3. Make the connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
4. Connect the battery as shown, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is continuity, it is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body as shown, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is no continuity, it is working properly.
6. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor runs.
7. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 80 A or less

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1. Do the 12 volt battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «12 VOLT BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-360280-S00079896582010042800000) ).
2. Remove the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-360274-S09784809262010042800000) ).
3. Disconnect the positive starter cable (A) and the BLK/WHT harness connector (B) from the S terminal, then remove the heater hose bracket (C).
4. Remove the two bolts securing the starter, then remove the starter.

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1. Install the starter, then tighten the starter mounting bolts.
2. Connect the positive starter cable (A) and the BLK/WHT harness connector (B) to the S terminal, then install the heater hose bracket (C). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out.
3. Install the air cleaner (see «AIR CLEANER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-360274-S09784809262010042800000) ).
4. Do the 12 volt battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «12 VOLT BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(ref-360280-S00079896582010042800000) ).
5. If the IMA battery level indicator displays no level, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 and 4,000 rpm without load (in P or N) until the level in the indicator is half full.

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Armature Inspection and Test

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-360278-S07582280902010042800000) ).
2. Disassemble the starter as shown in the Exploded View.
3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe to the specification in step 5, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in)
6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
7. Use a digital caliper or dial caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.016-0.020 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in)
8. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any of the segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 11.1-11.5 mm (0.44-0.45 in) Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.17 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
12. Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and (-) brushes (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection
13. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
14. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) clockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly.
15. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft counterclockwise. The gear shaft should rotate freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace the gear cover assembly.
16. If the drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear. Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
17. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
18. While squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs (D, E, and F).
19. Install the armature and brush holder assembly into the housing.

Note. Make sure the armature stays in the holder.