Heating/air Conditioning: Diagnosis Honda Element I

How to Retrieve a DTC

The heater control panel has a self-diagnostic function for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system. To run the self-diagnostic function, do the following

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Press the recirculation control switch and the rear window defogger switch.
3. While holding the both switches down, turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. The self-diagnosis will begin, and run for about 15 seconds. If there is any problem in the system after self-diagnosis is finished, the recirculation indicator will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 7 through 15. If no DTCs are found, the indicator will not blink.

Scheme 1

Scheme 2

Resetting the self-diagnostic Function

Turn the ignition switch OFF to cancel the self-diagnostic function. After completing repair work, run the self-diagnostic function again to make sure that there are no other malfunctions.

DTC Troubleshooting Index

DTC TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

In case of multiple problems, the recirculation indicator will indicate only the DTC with the least number of blinks.

Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

Scheme 3

Scheme 4

The air conditioning system removes heat from the passenger compartment by circulating refrigerant through the system as shown.

Scheme 5

This vehicle uses HFC-134a (R-134a) refrigerant which does not contain chlorofluorocarbons. Pay attention to the following service items

1. Do not mix refrigerants CFC-12 (R-12) and HFC-134a (R-134a). They are not compatible.
2. Use only the recommended polyalkyleneglycol (PAG) refrigerant oil (DENSO ND-OIL 8) designed for the R-134a A/C compressor. Intermixing the recommended (PAG) refrigerant oil with any other refrigerant oil will result in A/C compressor failure.
3. All A/C system parts (A/C compressor, discharge line, suction line, evaporator, A/C condenser, receiver/dryer, expansion valve, O-rings for joints) are designed for refrigerant R-134a. Do not exchange with R-12 parts.
4. Use a halogen gas leak detector designed for refrigerant R-134a.
5. Use a vacuum pump adapter which is equipped with a check valve to prevent the backflow of the vacuum pump oil.
6. Separate the manifold gauge sets (pressure gauges, hoses, joints) for refrigerants R-12 and R-134a. Do not confuse them.

Scheme 6

Scheme 7

Scheme 8

Scheme 9

DTC Troubleshooting

DTC INDEX

Scheme 10

1. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector.
2. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
3. Check for continuity between the following terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and the air mix control motor 7P connector. TERMINAL NUMBER INDEX 30P: 7P: No. 1 No. 1 No. 2 No. 2 No. 11 No. 3 No. 13 No. 7 No. 14 No. 5 Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the air mix control motor.
4. Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the air mix control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good air mix control motor and retest. Did the symptom/indication go away? YES - The original air mix control motor is faulty, replace it. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel.

Scheme 11

Scheme 12

1. Disconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector.
2. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
3. Check for continuity between body ground and heater control panel 30P connector terminals No. 1, 2, 11, 13, and 14 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the air mix control motor. NO - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the air mix control motor. This short also may damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 5.
5. Substitute a known-good air mix control motor and recheck. Did the symptom/indication go away? YES - The original air mix control motor is faulty, replace it. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel.

DTC 9: A Problem in the Air Mix Control Linkage, Door, or Motor

1. Test the air mix control motor (see «AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR TEST»(ref-220611-S31245063122006022100000) ). Is the air mix control motor OK? YES - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the air mix control motor (see «AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S01448691242006022100000) ).
3. Check the air mix control linkage and door for smooth movement. Do the air mix control linkage and door move smoothly? YES - Replace the air mix control motor. NO - Repair the air mix control linkage or door.

Scheme 13

Scheme 14

Scheme 15

1. Disconnect the mode control motor 7P connector.
2. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
3. Check for continuity between body ground and the heater control panel 30P connector terminals No. 8, 9, 10, 13, 15, 16, and 23 individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor. NO - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same terminals for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor. This short also may damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power, then recheck before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between the following terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and the mode control motor 7P connector. CONNECTOR TERMINAL CONTINUITY 30P 7P No. 8 No. 4 No. 9 No. 6 No. 10 No. 5 No. 13 No. 7 No. 15 No. 2 No. 16 No. 1 No. 23 No. 3 Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the mode control motor.
6. Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the mode control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good mode control motor and recheck. Did the symptom/indication go away? YES - The original mode control motor is faulty, replace it. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel.

DTC 11: A Problem in the Mode Control Linkage, Doors, or Motor

1. Test the mode control motor (see «AIR MIX CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S01448691242006022100000) ). Is the mode control motor OK? YES - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the mode control motor (see «MODE CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S12900188292006022100000) ).
3. Check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. Do the mode control linkage and doors move smoothly? YES - Replace the mode control motor. NO - Repair the mode control linkage or doors.

Scheme 16

Scheme 17

Scheme 18

Scheme 19

Scheme 20

Scheme 21

Scheme 22

Scheme 23

Scheme 24

1. Check the No. 12 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.
2. Connect the No. 2 terminal of the blower motor 2P connector to body ground with a jumper wire.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Does the blower motor run? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Go to step 17 .
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
5. Disconnect the jumper wire.
6. Disconnect the power transistor 4P connector.
7. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the power transistor 4P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the power transistor and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G501.
8. Connect the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals of the power transistor 4P connector with a jumper wire.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Does the blower motor run at high speed? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the BLU/BLK wire between the power transistor and the blower motor.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
11. Disconnect the jumper wire.
12. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
13. Check for continuity between the No. 18 and No. 19 terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the power transistor. NO - Go to step 14.
14. Check for continuity between the following terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and the power transistor 4P connector. CONNECTOR TERMINAL CONTINUITY 30P 4P No. 18 No. 1 No. 19 No. 3 Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the power transistor.
15. Reconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
16. Test the power transistor (see «RECIRCULATION CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S17954375612006022100000) ). Is the power transistor OK? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the power transistor 4P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Replace the power transistor.
17. Disconnect the jumper wire.
18. Disconnect the blower motor 2P connector.
19. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
20. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the blower motor 2P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the blower motor. NO - Go to step 21.
21. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
22. Remove the blower motor relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-220620-S08922687602006022100000) ). Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 23. NO - Replace the blower motor relay.
23. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 24. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
24. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
25. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 26. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the blower motor relay.
26. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
27. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the blower motor relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the BLU/WHT wire between the blower motor relay and the blower motor. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the blower motor relay and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G301.

Scheme 25

Scheme 26

1. Remove the evaporator temperature sensor (see «EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S31612530802006022100000) ).
2. Test the evaporator temperature sensor (see «EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S31612530802006022100000) ). Is the evaporator temperature sensor OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the evaporator temperature sensor.
3. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
4. Check for continuity between the No. 28 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and the No. 2 terminal of the evaporator temperature sensor 2P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the evaporator temperature sensor.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 13 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and the No. 1 terminal of the evaporator temperature sensor 2P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the evaporator temperature sensor 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the evaporator temperature sensor.

Scheme 27

1. Remove the evaporator temperature sensor (see «EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S31612530802006022100000) ).
2. Test the evaporator temperature sensor (see «EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S31612530802006022100000) ). Is the evaporator temperature sensor OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the evaporator temperature sensor.
3. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
4. Check for continuity between the No. 28 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the heater control panel and the evaporator temperature sensor. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel.

Scheme 28

Scheme 29

Scheme 30

Scheme 31

1. Check the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck.
2. Disconnect the recirculation control motor 7P connector.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor 7P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the recirculation control motor.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Test the recirculation control motor (see «MODE CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S12900188292006022100000) ). Is the recirculation control motor OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Go to step 13 .
7. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
8. Check for continuity between the No. 5 and No. 6 terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground individually. Is there continuity? YES - Repair any short to body ground in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. NO - Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the same wires for voltage. Is there any voltage? YES - Repair any short to power in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor. This short also may damage the heater control panel. Repair the short to power and retest before replacing the heater control panel. NO - Go to step 10.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
11. Check for continuity between the following terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector and the recirculation control motor 7P connector. CONNECTOR TERMINAL CONTINUITY 30P 7P No. 5 No. 5 No. 6 No. 7 Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Repair any open in the wire(s) between the heater control panel and the recirculation control motor.
12. Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the recirculation control motor 7P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good recirculation control motor and retest. Did the symptom/indication go away? YES - The original recirculation control motor is faulty, replace it. NO - Substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel.
13. Remove the recirculation control motor (see «MODE CONTROL MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S12900188292006022100000) ).
14. Check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement. Do the recirculation control linkage and doors move smoothly? YES - Replace the recirculation control motor. NO - Repair the recirculation control linkage or doors.

Scheme 32

Scheme 33

1. Check the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse, and recheck.
2. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the heater control panel.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the heater control panel and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G501.

A/C Condenser Fan Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the radiator fan and/or the A/C compressor is inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .

Scheme 34

Scheme 35

Scheme 36

Scheme 37

Scheme 38

1. Check the No. 1 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.
2. Remove the A/C condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-220620-S08922687602006022100000) ). Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Replace the A/C condenser fan relay.
3. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
4. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the A/C condenser fan run? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 8 .
5. Disconnect the jumper wire.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
7. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C condenser fan relay socket in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
8. Disconnect the jumper wire.
9. Disconnect the A/C condenser fan 2P connector.
10. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket and the No. 2 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan relay socket in the under-hood fuse/relay box and the A/C condenser fan.
11. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C condenser fan 2P connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Replace the A/C condenser fan motor. NO - Check for an open in the wire between the A/C condenser fan and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G201.

Radiator and A/C Condenser Fan Common Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if only one fan is inoperative, or the A/C compressor is inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .

Scheme 39

Scheme 40

1. Check the No. 1 (30 A) and No. 4 (20 A) fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14(10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.
2. Remove the A/C condenser fan relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the A/C condenser fan relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the radiator fan relay socket, and the A/C condenser fan relay socket.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Reinstall the A/C condenser fan relay.
7. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
9. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 12 terminal of ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and body ground with the ECM/PCM connectors connected. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at ECM/PCM connector E (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the radiator fan relay socket, the A/C condenser fan relay socket and the ECM/PCM.

A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if the fans are also inoperative. Refer to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .

Scheme 41

Scheme 42

Scheme 43

Scheme 44

Scheme 45

1. Check the No. 1 (30 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box, and the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Are the fuses OK? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Replace the fuse(s), and recheck.
2. Check the engine coolant temperature, throttle position, and idle speed (use the HDS PGM-FI data list if possible). Is the engine coolant temperature, throttle position, or idle speed out of normal range? YES - Troubleshoot and repair the cause of the high engine coolant temperature, low idle, or excessively high throttle position. NO - Go to step 3.
3. Remove the A/C compressor clutch relay from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(ref-220620-S08922687602006022100000) ). Is the relay OK? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace the A/C compressor clutch relay.
4. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box.
5. Connect the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P socket with a jumper wire. Does the A/C compressor clutch click? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 14 .
6. Disconnect the jumper wire.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
8. Measure the voltage between the No. 3 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P socket and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the BLK/YEL wire between the No. 14 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C compressor clutch relay socket.
9. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
10. Reinstall the A/C compressor clutch relay.
11. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.
12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
13. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 18 terminal of ECM/PCM connector E (31P) and body ground with the ECM/PCM connectors connected. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at ECM/PCM connector E (31P). If the connections are good, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C compressor clutch relay and the ECM/PCM.
14. Disconnect the jumper wire.
15. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch 1P connector.
16. Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch relay 4P socket and the No. 1 terminal of the A/C compressor clutch 1P connector. Is there continuity? YES - Check the A/C compressor clutch clearance, and the A/C compressor clutch field coil (see «A/C COMPRESSOR CLUTCH CHECK»(ref-220611-S22559159482006022100000) ). NO - Repair open in the wire between the A/C compressor clutch relay socket and the A/C compressor clutch.

A/C Pressure Switch Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Do not use this troubleshooting procedure if any of these items are working properly with the A/C switch ON; A/C condenser fan, radiator fan and A/C compressor, or the heater does not work. Refer to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX .

Scheme 46

Scheme 47

Scheme 48

Scheme 49

Scheme 50

1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
2. Turn the blower switch on, and check for blower motor operation. Does the blower motor run correctly on all speeds? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Troubleshoot the blower motor circuit (see «DTC 12: A PROBLEM IN THE BLOWER MOTOR CIRCUIT»(ref-220611-S00171036332006022100000) ).
3. Disconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Measure the voltage between the No. 2 terminal of the A/C pressure switch 2P connector and body ground. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 14 .
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals of the A/C pressure switch. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Go to step 16 .
8. Reconnect the A/C pressure switch 2P connector.
9. Disconnect the heater control panel 30P connector.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
11. Measure the voltage between the No. 7 terminal of the heater control panel 30P connector and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Repair open in the wire between the heater control panel and the A/C pressure switch.
12. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
13. Measure the resistance between the No. 13 and the No. 28 terminals of the heater control panel 30P connector. Is the resistance less than 24 kohms? YES - Check for loose wires or poor connections at the heater control panel 30P connector and at the A/C pressure switch 2P connector. If the connections are good, substitute a known-good heater control panel, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original heater control panel. NO - Test the evaporator temperature sensor (see «EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-220611-S31612530802006022100000) ).
14. Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.
15. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 9 terminal of under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (12P) and body ground with the under-dash fuse/relay box connectors connected. Is there 5 V or more? YES - Repair open in the wire between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the A/C pressure switch. NO - Refer to the multiplex control system (see «TROUBLESHOOTING»(ref-220634-S18459683672006022100000) ). NOTE: Check for multiplex codes in mode 1. Follow the troubleshooting for any codes found. If no codes are found, substitute a known-good multiplex control unit and a ECM/PCM one at a time.
16. Check for proper A/C system pressure. Is the pressure within specifications? YES - Replace the A/C pressure switch. NO - Repair the A/C pressure problem.

Scheme 51

1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the air mix control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the air mix control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the air mix control motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the air mix control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Max Hot. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the air mix control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Max Cool.
3. If the air mix control motor did not run in step 2 , remove it, then check the air mix control linkage and door for smooth movement. If the linkage and door move smoothly, replace the air mix control motor. If the linkage or door sticks or binds, repair them as needed. If the air mix control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
4. Measure the resistance between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals. It should be between 4.2 to 7.8 kohms.
5. Reconnect the air mix control motor 7P connector, then turn the ignition switch ON (II).
6. Using the backprobe set, measure the voltage between the No. 3 and No. 7 terminals. Max Cool---about 1 V Max Hot---about 4 V
7. If either the resistance or voltage readings are not as specified, replace the air mix control motor.

Scheme 52

1. Remove the under-dash fuse/relay box (see «REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/honda/element/i-2004-2009/remont/body-electrical/#under-dash-fuserelay-box__removal-and-installation) ).
2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the air mix control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor from the heater unit.
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.

Scheme 53

1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the mode control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the mode control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the mode control motor, and ground the No. 2 terminal; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Vent. If it doesn't, reverse the connections; the mode control motor should run smoothly, and stop at Defrost. When the mode control motor stops running, disconnect battery power immediately.
3. If the mode control motor did not run in step 2 , remove it, then check the mode control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the mode control motor. If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed. If the mode control motor runs smoothly, go to step 4.
4. Use a digital multimeter with an output of 1 mA or less at the 20 k 0, range. With the mode control motor running as in step 2 , check for continuity between the No. 3, 4, 5, 6 terminals and the No. 7 terminal individually. There should be continuity for a moment at each terminal as the motor moves past the switch's terminal.
5. If there is no continuity for a moment at each terminal, replace the mode control motor.

Scheme 54

1. Remove the ECM/PCM (see «ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT»(ref-220570-S29077717572006022000000) ).
2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the mode control motor from the heater unit.
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.

Scheme 55

1. Disconnect the 7P connector from the recirculation control motor. NOTE: Incorrectly applying power and ground to the recirculation control motor will damage it. Follow the instructions carefully.
2. Connect battery power to the No. 1 terminal of the recirculation control motor, and ground the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals; the recirculation control motor should run smoothly. To avoid damaging the recirculation control motor, do not reverse power and ground. Disconnect the No. 5 or No. 7 terminals from ground; the recirculation control motor should stop at Fresh or Recirculate. Don't cycle the recirculation control motor for a long time.
3. If the recirculation control motor did not run in step 2 , remove it, then check the recirculation control linkage and doors for smooth movement. If the linkage and doors move smoothly, replace the recirculation control motor. If the linkage or doors stick or bind, repair them as needed.

Scheme 56

1. Remove the ECM/PCM (see «ECM/PCM REPLACEMENT»(ref-220570-S29077717572006022000000) ).
2. Remove the bolt and the bracket (A). Disconnect the 7P connector (B) and the harness clip (C) from the recirculation control motor (D). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control motor from the blower unit.
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, make sure the motor runs smoothly.

Scheme 57

Scheme 58

1. Disconnect the 4P connector from the power transistor.
2. Measure the resistance between the No. 3 and No. 4 terminals of the power transistor. It should be about 1.4-1.5 kohms. If the resistance is within the specifications, go to step 3. If the resistance is not within the specifications, replace the power transistor.
3. Carefully release the lock tab on the No. 1 terminal (BLU/YEL) (A) in the 4P connector, then remove the terminal and insulate it from body ground.
4. Reconnect the 4P connector to the power transistor.
5. Supply 12 V to the No. 1 cavity with a jumper wire.
6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check that the blower motor runs. If the blower motor does not run, replace the power transistor. If the blower motor runs, the power transistor is OK.

Scheme 59

1. Remove the center panel (see «CENTER PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-220597-S01618203442006022100000) ).
2. Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater control panel (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the control panel in the reverse order of removal. After installation, operate the various functions to see whether they works properly.
4. Run the self-diagnostic function to confirm that there are no problems in the system (see «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(ref-220611-S09362656442006022100000) .

Performance Test

The performance test will help determine if the air conditioner system is operating within specifications.

Use only service equipment that is U.L.-listed and is certified to meet the requirements of SAE J2210 to remove HFC-134a (R-134a) from the air conditioning system.

If accidental system discharge occurs, ventilate work area before resuming service.

R-134a service equipment or vehicle air conditioning systems should not be pressure tested or leak tested with compressed air.

Additional health and safety information may be obtained from the refrigerant and lubricant manufacturers.

Scheme 60

Scheme 61

1. Connect an R-134a refrigerant recover/recycling/charging station to the high-pressure service port and the low-pressure service port, following the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
2. Determine the relative humidity and air temperature.
3. Open the glove box, then let the glove box hang down (see «GLOVE BOX REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-220597-S26723889242006022100000) ).
4. Insert a thermometer (A) in the center air vent.
5. Place a thermometer (B) near the blower unit.
6. Test conditions: Avoid direct sunlight. Open the hood. Open the front doors. Set the temperature control dial on Max Cool, the mode control dial on Vent and the recirculation control switch on Recirculate. Turn the A/C switch on and the fan switch on Max. Run the engine speed at 1,500 RPM. No driver or passengers in vehicle.
7. After running the air conditioning for 10 minutes under the above test conditions, read the delivery temperature from the thermometer in the center vent, the intake temperature near the blower unit and the high and low system pressure from the A/C gauges.
8. To complete the charts: Mark the delivery temperature along the vertical line. Mark the intake temperature (ambient air temperature) along the bottom line. Draw a line straight up from the air temperature to the humidity. Mark a point 10% above and 10% below the humidity level. From each point, draw a horizontal line across the delivery temperature. The delivery temperature should fall between the two lines. Complete the low-side pressure test and high-side pressure test in the same way. Any measurements outside the line may indicate the need for further inspection. Example Intake temperature (dry): 86°F (30°C) Humidity level 70% Intake temperature (wet): 77.9°F (25.5 Intake pressure: 275 kPa (2.8 kgf/cm 2 [39.8 psi] Delivery temperature: 67.6°F (19.8°C) Delivery pressure: 1,363 kPa (13.9 kgf/cm 2 )[197.8 psi] Judge: Normal

Pressure Test

PRESSURE TEST CHART

See also:
• REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• COOLANT CHECK
• FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION