ENGINE LUBRICATION DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| OIL LEAKS | 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. | |
| (a) Misaligned or damaged. | (a) Replace as necessary. | |
| (b) Loose fasteners, broken or porous metal parts. | (b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or replace metal parts. | |
| 2. Crankshaft rear seal | 2. Replace as necessary. See REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Crankshaft seal flange. Scratched, nicked or grooved. | 3. Polish or replace crankshaft. | |
| 4. Oil pan flange cracked. | 4. Replace oil pan. See REMOVAL . | |
| 5. Timing chain cover seal damaged. | 5. Reseal timing cover. | |
| 6. Scratched or damaged vibration damper hub. | 6. Polish or replace damper. | |
| OIL PRESSURE DROP | 1. Low oil level. | 1. Check and correct oil level. |
| 2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. | 2. Replace sending unit. See REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Low oil pressure. | 3. Check oil pump and bearing clearance. | |
| 4. Clogged oil filter. | 4. Replace oil filter. See REMOVAL . | |
| 5. Worn oil pump. | 5. Replace oil pump. See REMOVAL . | |
| 6. Thin or diluted oil. | 6. Change oil and filter. | |
| 7. Excessive bearing clearance. | 7. Replace as necessary. | |
| 8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. | 8. Replace oil pump. See REMOVAL . | |
| 9. Oil pick up tube loose, damaged or clogged. | 9. Replace as necessary. | |
| OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK PLUGS FOULING | 1. Worn or damaged rings. | 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace rings. |
| 2. Carbon in oil ring slots. | 2. Replace rings. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 3. Incorrect ring size installed. | 3. Replace rings. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 4. Worn valve guides. | 4. Ream guides and replace valves. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 5. Leaking valve guide seals. | 5. Replace valve guide seals. |
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSES | CORRECTIONS |
|---|---|---|
| NOISY VALVES | 1. High or low oil level in crankcase. | 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS . |
| 2. Thin or diluted oil. | 2. Change oil and filter. | |
| 3. Low oil pressure. | 3. Check oil pump, if OK, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 4. Dirt in lash adjusters. | 4. Clean or replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Worn rocker arms. | 5. Replace as necessary. | |
| 6. Worn valve guides. | 6. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| 7. Excessive runout of valve seats. | 7. Service valves and valve seats. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| ENGINE VIBRATION | 1. Counter Balance Shaft not timed properly | 1. Refer to VALVE TIMING . |
| CONNECTING ROD NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS . |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check oil pump, if OK, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil and filter. | |
| 4. Excessive bearing clearance. | 4. Replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Connecting rod journal out-of-round. | 5. Service or replace crankshaft. | |
| 6. Misaligned connecting rods. | 6. Replace bent connecting rods. | |
| MAIN BEARING NOISE | 1. Insufficient oil supply. | 1. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS . |
| 2. Low oil pressure. | 2. Check oil pump, if OK, check rod and main bearings for excessive wear. | |
| 3. Thin or diluted oil. | 3. Change oil and filter. | |
| 4. Excessive bearing clearance. | 4. Replace as necessary. | |
| 5. Excessive end play. | 5. Check thrust washers for wear. | |
| 6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. | 6. Service or replace crankshaft. | |
| 7. Loose flywheel or torque converter. | 7. Tighten to correct torque |
ENGINE PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSTIC TABLE
| CONDITION | POSSIBLE CAUSE | CORRECTION |
|---|---|---|
| ENGINE WILL NOT START | 1. Weak battery | 1. Charge or replace as necessary. |
| 2. Corroded or loose battery connections. | 2. Clean and tighten battery connections. Apply a coat of light mineral grease to the terminals. | |
| 3. Faulty starter. | 3. Refer to DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING . | |
| 4. Faulty coil or control unit. | 4. Refer to REMOVAL . | |
| 5. Incorrect spark plug gap. | 5. Refer to SPARK PLUG . | |
| 6. Incorrect right bank cam timing. | 6. Refer to VALVE TIMING . | |
| 7. Dirt or water in fuel system. | 7. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 8. Faulty fuel pump, relay or wiring. | 8. Repair or replace as necessary. | |
| 9. Faulty cam or crank sensor | 9. Refer to IGNITION CONTROL - SERVICE INFORMATION article. | |
| ENGINE STALLS OR ROUGH IDLE | 1. Vacuum leak. | 1. Inspect intake manifold and vacuum hoses, repair or replace as necessary. |
| 2. Faulty crank position sensor | 2. Replace crank position sensor. | |
| 3. Faulty coil. | 3. Refer to REMOVAL . | |
| 4. Incorrect cam timing. | 4. See STANDARD PROCEDURE . | |
| ENGINE LOSS OF POWER | 1. Dirty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. | 1. Refer to SPARK PLUG . |
| 2. Dirt or water in fuel system. | 2. Clean system and replace fuel filter. | |
| 3. Faulty fuel pump. | 3. Refer to PUMP-FUEL . | |
| 4. Blown cylinder head gasket. | 4. Replace cylinder head gasket. | |
| 5. Low compression. | 5. See DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING , repair as necessary. | |
| 6. Burned, warped or pitted valves. | 6. Replace as necessary. | |
| 7. Plugged or restricted exhaust system. | 7. Inspect and replace as necessary. | |
| 8. Faulty coil. | 8. Refer to REMOVAL . | |
| 9. Incorrect cam timing. | 9. Refer to VALVE TIMING . | |
| ENGINE MISSES ON ACCELERATION | 1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly gapped. | 1. Refer to SPARK PLUG . |
| 2. Dirt in fuel system. | 2. Clean fuel system. | |
| 3. Burned, warped or pitted valves. | 3. Replace as necessary. | |
| 4. Faulty coil. | 4. Refer to REMOVAL . | |
| ENGINE MISSES AT HIGH SPEED | 1. Spark plugs dirty or incorrectly gapped. | 1. Refer to SPARK PLUG . |
| 2. Faulty coil. | 2. Refer to REMOVAL . | |
| 3. Dirt or water in fuel system. | 3. Clean system and replace fuel filter. |
Scheme 32
| 1 - CYLINDER BLOCK |
|---|
| 2 - REMOVE PLUG WITH PLIERS |
| 3 - STRIKE HERE WITH HAMMER |
| 4 - DRIFT PUNCH |
| 5 - CUP PLUG |
Using a blunt tool such as a drift and a hammer, strike the bottom edge of the cup plug (5). With the cup plug rotated, grasp firmly with pliers or other suitable tool and remove plug. (Scheme 32)
| CAUTION | Do not drive cup plug into the casting as restricted cooling can result and cause serious engine problems. |
Thoroughly clean inside of cup plug hole in cylinder block or head. Be sure to remove old sealer. Lightly coat inside of cup plug hole with Mopar® Stud and Bearing Mount. Make certain the new plug is cleaned of all oil or grease. Using proper drive plug, drive plug into hole so that the sharp edge of the plug is at least 0.5 mm (0.020 in.) inside the lead-in chamfer.
It is not necessary to wait for curing of the sealant. The cooling system can be refilled and the vehicle placed in service immediately.
Scheme 33
| 1 - ABRASIVE PAD |
|---|
| 2 - 3M ROLOC™ BRISTLE DISC |
| 3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER |
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface preparation must be performed, especially with the use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets.
Never use the following to clean gasket surfaces
- Metal scraper (3).
- Abrasive pad (1) or paper to clean cylinder block and head.
- High speed power tool (1) with an abrasive pad or a wire brush.
Note. Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces
- Solvent or a commercially available gasket remover
- Plastic or wood scraper.
- Drill motor with 3M Roloc™ Bristle Disc (white or yellow).
| CAUTION | Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond the recommended speed), can damage the sealing surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80 grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces with care. |
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
| WARNING | USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRESSURE CAP REMOVED. |
VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the procedures in CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE . An engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adjacent cylinders will result in approximately a 50 - 70% reduction in compression pressure.
| WARNING | USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRESSURE CAP REMOVED. |
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or equivalent. Perform test following the procedures supplied with the tool kit.
TESTING VALVE SPRINGS
| 1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-647 |
Note. Whenever the valves are removed from the cylinder head it is recommended that the valve springs be inspected and tested for reuse.
Inspect the valve springs for physical signs of wear or damage. Turn table of tool C-647 (1) until surface is in line with the 40.12 mm (1.579 in.) mark on the threaded stud and the zero mark on the front. Place spring over the stud on the table and lift compressing lever to set tone device. Pull on torque wrench until a Ping is heard. Take reading on torque wrench at this instant. Multiply this reading by two. This will give the spring load at test length. Fractional measurements are indicated on the table for finer adjustments. Refer to SPECIFICATIONS to obtain specified height and allowable tensions. Replace any springs that do not meet specifications.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert wear patterns are illustrated.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.
Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD
- Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
- Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
- Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube. CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
- Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applying soapy water at the suspected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service information procedures.
- If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to «INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS»(ref-306142-S00329833692008120900000) .
- If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
- Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followed to help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area
- Disconnect the battery.
- Raise the vehicle.
- Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light to check for the oil leak: Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaft damage. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
- If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in «AIR LEAK DETECTION TEST METHOD»(ref-306142-S37438529602008120900000) . CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
- If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is detected between the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that can be polished out with emery cloth. CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
- For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.
CRANKCASE OIL LEVEL INSPECTION
| CAUTION | Do not overfill crankcase with engine oil, pressure loss or oil foaming can result. |
Inspect engine oil level approximately every 800 kilometers (500 miles). Unless the engine has exhibited loss of oil pressure, run the engine for about five minutes before checking oil level. Checking engine oil level on a cold engine is not accurate.
To ensure proper lubrication of an engine, the engine oil must be maintained at an acceptable level. The acceptable levels are indicated between the ADD and SAFE marks on the engine oil dipstick.
- Position vehicle on level surface.
- With engine OFF, allow approximately ten minutes for oil to settle to bottom of crankcase, remove engine oil dipstick.
- Wipe dipstick clean.
- Install dipstick and verify it is seated in the tube.
- Remove dipstick, with handle held above the tip, take oil level reading.
- Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on dipstick.