Windows and Glass — Acura TL IV (2008-2011)

Scheme 35

Scheme 35: Component Location Index

Windshield Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seat Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.

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Scheme 36: Windshield Replacement

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Remove these items Cowl cover (see «FRONT BULKHEAD BRACE COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__front-bulkhead-brace-cover-replacement) ) Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mirrors/#mirrors) ) A-pillar trim, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-pillar-areas) ) Roof moldings, both sides (see «ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__roof-molding-replacement) )
Remove the molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B) If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife
If the old windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil.
Pull down the front portion of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__headliner-removalinstallation) ) Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it
Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard Carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield
Carefully remove the windshield
Scrape smooth the old adhesive, using a putty knife or similar tool, until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0 08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body, damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding Remove the rubber dams from the body
Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the clean surface
If you are reinstalling the old windshield, use a putty knife to scrape off the old adhesive, the upper clips, and the rubber dams from the windshield Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease
Before installing a new windshield, attach a new rearview mirror harness cover base to the inside face of the windshield (see «REARVIEW MIRROR HARNESS COVER BASE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/windows/#windows-and-glass__rearview-mirror-harness-cover-base-replacement) )
Apply glass primer to the upper clip mounting areas on the windshield (C), and let it dry Remove the adhesive backing and attach the rubber dam A, B and the upper clips (D) to the inside of the windshield as shown. Be sure the rubber dams and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (E) Be sure the index tabs (F) on the clips face the left side Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied
Attach rubber dam C with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield (A) as shown, using the edge of the black ceramic-coated area (B) as a guide Be sure the rubber dam lines up with the alignment marks (D) Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied
Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the windshield (C) Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied
Attach the molding upper seal (A) with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the molding (B) as shown
Set the windshield in the opening, and center it Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown Make sure the pins (B) of both upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied
Remove the windshield
Apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth Apply glass primer to the molding Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces
Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange Cover the dashboard before applying the primer Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown
Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of adhesive (A) on the windshield (B) along the edge of the molding (C) and the rubber dams (D) as shown Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner
Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 16 , and set it down on the adhesive Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry
Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol
Wait at least one hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly
Reinstall all remaining removed parts NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads)

Rearview Mirror Harness Cover Base Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire

Scheme 47

Scheme 47: Rearview Mirror Harness Cover Base Replacement

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Remove the rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mirrors/#mirrors) )
Carefully cut through the adhesive tape under the rearview mirror harness cover base using the piano wire, then remove the base
Use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive tape from the windshield Clean the bonding surface on the inside face of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease
If you are reinstalling the original rearview mirror harness cover base (A), use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive tape from the base Clean the base surface with isopropyl alcohol Apply primer to the base as shown, and attach the adhesive tape (B) to the base Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.031 in), Width 7 mm (0.28 in)
Before installing the rearview mirror harness cover base, apply primer to the area where the harness cover base will be applied to the inside face of the windshield Let the primer dry at least 10 minutes, then attach it to the windshield within 12 hours
Attach the rearview mirror harness cover base (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the inside face of the windshield as shown, then press the adhesive portions into place securely
Reinstall all remaining removed parts

Rear Window Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines, the window antenna grid lines, or the terminals

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Scheme 50: Rear Window Replacement

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Remove these items Trunk lid Rear door opening seal, as needed (see step 5 on «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-pillar-areas) ) Rear center seat belt lower anchor (see «CENTER SEAT BELT AND SEAT BELT BUCKLES»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/restraints-control-systems/#seat-belt-system) ) Rear window molding (see «REAR WINDOW MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__rear-window-molding-replacement) )
Disconnect the window antenna connectors (A) and the rear window defogger connectors (B)
If the old rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the rear window and the body with a grease pencil.
Pull down the rear portion of the headliner (A) by detaching the clips Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it
Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the rear window Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood
Remove the lower rubber dam (A) from the lower edge of the rear window (B) If necessary, cut the rubber dam with a utility knife
With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire rear window
Carefully remove the rear window
Scrape smooth the old adhesive, using a putty knife or similar tool, until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0 08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening flange Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body, damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding Remove the fasteners from the body
Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened in isopropyl alcohol After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface
If you are reinstalling the old windshield, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the fasteners, and the rubber dams from the rear window Clean the bonding surfaces on inside face and the edge of the rear window with isopropyl alcohol Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease
Apply primer to the edge of the rear window (A) where the lower rubber dam will be attached as shown Attach the lower rubber dam (B) with adhesive tape (C) to the lower edge of the rear window After installing the rubber dam, cut the ends (D) of the rubber dam as shown Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied
Apply primer to the upper clip mounting areas on the windshield, and let it dry Attach the upper rubber dam (A), the side rubber dams (B), the upper clips (C), and the fasteners (D) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the rear window (E) as shown Be sure the upper rubber dam, the side rubber dams, the upper clips, and the fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F) If necessary, cut the excess rubber dams Be sure the index tabs (G) on the clips face the right side Be careful not to touch the rear window where the adhesive will be applied
Attach the fasteners with adhesive tape to the rear window opening flange (A) of the body on both sides
Set the rear window in the opening, and center it Make alignment marks (A) across the rear window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown Make sure the pins (B) of both upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes Be careful not to touch the rear window where the adhesive will be applied
Remove the rear window
Apply a light coat of glass primer to the rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth Apply the glass primer to the corner portions of the rear window using the printed dots (C) on the rear window as a guide Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces
Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange Be careful not to mix up the body and the glass primer applicators Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands
Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown
Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of adhesive (A) to the rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the rear window Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner
Use suction cups to hold the rear window over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 15 , and set it down on the adhesive Lightly push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry
Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol
Wait at least one hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the rear window and check for leaks Mark the leaking areas, let the rear window dry, then seal with sealant Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after rear window installation If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly
Reinstall all remaining removed parts NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads)

Windows and Glass Acura TL IV