Engine Block Acura MDX II рестайлинг

Scheme 282

Scheme 283

Scheme 284

Scheme 285

Scheme 286

Scheme 287

1. Remove the oil pump (see «REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).
2. Remove the baffle plate (see step 9 under «Crankshaft and Piston Removal»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between the connecting rod (B) and the crankshaft (C). Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15-0.35 mm (0.006-0.013 in) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.017 in)
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator by prying, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator by prying; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10-0.35 mm (0.0039-0.0138 in) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.0177 in)
6. If the crankshaft end play is beyond the service limit, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

Scheme 288

1. Remove the main bearing caps and the bearing halves (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal. NOTE: If the engine is still in the vehicle when you bolt the main cap down to check the clearance, the weight of the crankshaft and drive plate will flatten the plastigage further than just the torque on the cap bolt and give you an incorrect reading. For an accurate reading, support the crank with a jack under the counterweights, and check only one bearing at a time.
4. Reinstall the bearings and the caps, then torque the bearing cap bolts to 74 N.m (7.5 kgf.m, 54 lbf.ft), and the bearing cap side bolts to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft) in the proper sequence (see step 22 under «Crankshaft and Piston Installation»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block__crankshaft-and-piston-installation) ). NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the bearing cap and the bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.019-0.045 mm (0.00075-0.00177 in) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.00197 in)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

Block Bore Code Location

Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the engine block as a code for the size of each of the four main journal bores.

Use them, and the numbers stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.

Scheme 289

Scheme 290

Scheme 291

Scheme 292

1. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place a strip of plastigage across the rod journal.
4. Reinstall the bearing half and the connecting rod cap, then torque the connecting rod bolt to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft)+90°. NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.020-0.044 mm (0.00079-0.00173 in) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.00197 in)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

Connecting Rod Bearing Selection

Each connecting rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in) increments) depending on the size of its big end bore.

It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or III) indicating the range. You may find any combination of 1, 2, 3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII in any engine.

Big End Bore Size: 60.0 mm (2.362 in)

Inspect the connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.

Big End Bore Code Locations

Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code for the size of the big end. Use them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank (codes for rod journal size) to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.

Scheme 293

Scheme 294

Scheme 295

Scheme 296

Scheme 297

Scheme 298

Scheme 299

1. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 6 .
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift.
3. Drain the engine oil (see «OIL PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication__oil-pressure-test) ).
4. Remove the splash shield (see «SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__splash-shield-replacement) ) and the front undercover (see «FRONT UNDERCOVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__front-undercover-replacement) ).
5. Remove exhaust pipe A (see step 31 under «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
6. Remove the rear warm up TWC bracket.
7. Remove the CKP sensor cover (A) and the bolt (B), then disconnect the CKP sensor connector (C).
8. Remove the torque converter cover (A) and the four bolts (B) securing the transmission.
9. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
10. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places shown.
11. Remove the oil pan.

Scheme 300

Scheme 301

Scheme 302

Scheme 303

Scheme 304

Scheme 305

Scheme 306

Scheme 307

1. Remove the engine/transmission (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
2. Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
3. Remove the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
4. Remove the cylinder heads (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
5. Remove the timing belt drive pulley from the crankshaft.
6. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
7. Remove the engine block end cover.
8. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly.
9. Remove the oil strainer (A), the baffle plate (B), and the oil pump (C).
10. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the connecting rod journal at bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder. Remove the piston/connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod. Take care not to damage the oil jets, connecting rod journal, or the cylinder with the connecting rod.
11. Remove the bearing from the rod cap. Keep all caps/bearings in order.
12. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
13. After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the connecting rod cap on the rod.
14. To avoid confusion during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
15. Loosen the bearing cap bolts and the bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
16. Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and the bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove the main bearing cap (C).
17. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate (B).
18. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
19. Reinstall the main bearing caps and the bearings on the engine block in the proper order.

Scheme 308

Scheme 309

1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
3. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
4. Check the keyway slot and the threaded holes for damage.
5. Measure the out-of-round at the middle of each rod and the main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.00020 in) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.00039 in)
6. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.00020 in) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.00039 in) Straightness
7. Place the V-blocks on a flat surface.
8. Check the total runout with the crankshaft supported on V-blocks.
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.025 mm (0.00098 in) max. Service Limit: 0.030 mm (0.00118 in)

Scheme 310

Scheme 311

Scheme 312

Scheme 313

Scheme 314

1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Check the pistons for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston skirt diameter at a point 16 mm (0.63 in) from the bottom of the skirt. Piston Diameter Standard (New): 89.983-89.996 mm (3.54263-3.54314 in) Service Limit: 89.975 mm (3.54232 in)
4. Measure the wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown.
5. If the measurements in any cylinder are beyond the service limit or the cylinders are damaged, replace the engine block. Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): 90.000-90.015 mm (3.54330-3.54389 in) Service Limit: 90.065 mm (3.54586 in) Bore Taper Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
6. Check the top of the engine block for warpage. Measure along the edges and across the center as shown. Engine Block Warpage Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.002 in) max. Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.003 in)
7. Calculate the difference between cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and the cylinder bore for excessive wear. Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance Standard (New): 0.004-0.032 mm (0.00016-0.00126 in) Service Limit: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in)

Scheme 315

Scheme 316

Scheme 317

1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A) and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B). NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove snap rings (A) from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
4. Separately heat each piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.

Inspection

Note. Inspect the piston, the piston pin, and the connecting rod when they are at room temperature.

Scheme 318

Scheme 319

Scheme 320

Scheme 321

1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin. Piston Pin Diameter Standard (New): 21.961-21.965 mm (0.86460-0.86476 in) Service Limit: 21.954 mm (0.86433 in)
2. Zero the gauge (A) to the piston pin diameter.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole diameter on the piston. Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance Standard (New): -0.0050-0.0030 mm (-0.000197-0.000118 in) Service Limit: 0.004 mm (0.00016 in)
4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance. Piston Pin-to-Connecting Rod Clearance Standard (New): 0.005-0.015 mm (0.00020-0.00059 in) Service Limit: 0.019 mm (0.00075 in)

Scheme 322

Scheme 323

Scheme 324

1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A) only on one side.
2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158 CF (70°C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and the connecting rod (B) with the embossed marks (C) on the same side. Install the piston pin (D). NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the piston pin.
5. Install the remaining snap ring.
6. Reassemble the other pistons the same way.

Scheme 325

Scheme 326

Scheme 327

Scheme 328

Scheme 329

1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the aid piston rings (B).
3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner with a blade to fit the piston grooves. File down the blade, if necessary. The top ring and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in) wide, and the oil ring groove is 2.8 mm (0.11 in) wide. Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tool. NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.6-0.8 in) from the bottom.
5. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge: If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine. If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits (see step 5 under «Block and Piston Inspection»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ). Piston Ring End-Gap Top Ring: Standard (New): 0.30-0.40 mm (0.012-0.015 in) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.023 in) Second Ring: Standard (New): 0.40-0.55 mm (0.016-0.021 in) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.027 in) Oil Ring: Standard (New): 0.20-0.35 mm (0.008-0.013 in) Service Limit: 0.80 mm (0.031 in)
6. Install the rings as shown. The top ring (A) has a 1E mark and the second ring (B) has a 2E mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must face upward.
7. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearance. Top Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.055-0.085 mm (0.003-0.003 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.005 in) Second Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.030-0.060 mm (0.002-0.002 in) Service Limit: 0.13 mm (0.005 in)
8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
9. Position the ring end gaps as shown

Crankshaft and Piston Installation

Special Tools Required

1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCA0200

Scheme 330

Scheme 331

Scheme 332

Scheme 333

Scheme 334

Scheme 335

Scheme 336

Scheme 337

Scheme 338

Scheme 339

Scheme 340

Scheme 341

Scheme 342

Scheme 343

Scheme 344

1. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and the connecting rods.
4. Apply new engine oil to the inside of the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings.
5. Install the CKP pulse plate to crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
6. Lower the crankshaft (A) into the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate (B).
7. Apply new engine oil to the side with the thrust washer groove. Install the thrust washers (A) in the No. 3 journal.
8. Install the main bearings (A) and the main bearing caps (B) with the arrow (C) facing the timing belt side of the engine block.
9. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges, then loosely install the bearing cap bolts (D) and the bearing cap side bolts (E).
10. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder you are installing the piston in.
11. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore.
12. Attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
13. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the timing belt side of the engine block.
14. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
15. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
16. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
17. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B. Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter Difference in Diameter Specification: 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in)
18. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
19. Install the connecting rod bearing (A), then line up the mark (B) on the connecting rod (C) and the rod cap (D).
20. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts (E) to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
21. Tighten the connecting rod bolt an additional 90 °. NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 16 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle. Repeat steps 10 to 21 for the remaining cylinders.
22. Tighten the main bearing cap bolts, then tighten the main bearing cap side bolts to the specified torque in the sequence as shown. Repeat the torque sequence again to ensure the bolts are properly torqued.
23. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the engine block end cover mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
24. Clean and dry the engine block end cover mating surfaces and the crankshaft oil seal housing.
25. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
26. Using the driver handle, 15x135 L and the oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal (A) until the oil seal driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover.
27. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the engine block end cover and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply a 2.3 mm (0.091 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
28. Install the dowel pins (A), a new O-ring (B), and the engine block end cover (C) on the engine block. NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the engine block end cover.
29. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
30. Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump (see step 3 under «OIL PUMP OVERHAUL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).
31. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
32. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces.
33. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the oil pump and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply a 2.3 mm (0.091 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket.
34. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal, and to the new O-ring (A).
35. Install the dowel pins (B), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft, and install the oil pump (C). NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pump.
36. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
37. Install the baffle plate (D), then install the oil strainer (E) with a new O-ring (F).
38. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly (A), with a new rocker arm oil control solenoid filter (B).
39. Install the oil pan (see «OIL PAN INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
40. Install the timing belt drive pulley to the crankshaft (see «TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
41. Install the cylinder heads (see «CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
42. Install the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
43. Install the transmission (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
44. Install the engine/transmission (see «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).

Note. When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, run the engine at idle until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run it for about 15 minutes.

Scheme 345

1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A) from the crankshaft. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate.
3. Install the CKP pulse plate in the reverse order of removal.

Note. When installing the crankshaft, refer to the crankshaft and piston installation procedure (see CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON INSTALLATION ).

Scheme 346

Scheme 347

Scheme 348

Scheme 349

Scheme 350

1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, 08718-0004, or 08718-0009) to the oil pan mating surface of the engine block and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply a 2.3 mm (0.091 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
4. Install the oil pan on the engine block.
5. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque the bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.8 lbf.ft). NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil. Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
6. Tighten the four bolts (A) securing the transmission, then install the torque converter cover (B).
7. Connect the CKP sensor connector (A), then install the CKP sensor cover (B) and the bolt (C).
8. Install the rear warm up TWC bracket.
9. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps.
10. Install exhaust pipe A using new gaskets and new self-locking nuts (see step 29 under «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
11. Install the splash shield (see «SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__splash-shield-replacement) ) and the front undercover (see «FRONT UNDERCOVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__front-undercover-replacement) ).
12. Refill the engine with engine oil (see step 4 under «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).

Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

Oil Seal Driver, 64 mm 07OAD-RCAA100

Scheme 351

1. Remove the timing belt drive pulley (see «TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
2. Remove the pulley end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
5. Using the oil seal driver, 64 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal (A) until the oil seal driver bottoms on the oil pump.
6. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the timing belt drive pulley (see «TIMING BELT ADJUSTER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).

Transmission End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Oil Seal Driver Attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCA0200

Scheme 352

1. Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) and the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
2. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal.
5. Using the driver handle, 15x135 L, and the oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal (A) until the oil seal driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover. Align the hole in the oil seal driver attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
6. Clean the excess oil off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and the transmission (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/ii-2010-2013/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).

Sealing Bolt Installation

Note. When installing the sealing bolts (A), always use a new washer (B).

Scheme 353

See also:
• REMOVAL
• OIL PRESSURE TEST
• SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT
• FRONT UNDERCOVER REPLACEMENT
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• Crankshaft and Piston Removal
• Crankshaft and Piston Installation