Contents Section: Starter All sections

Starting System: Removal & Installation Mitsubishi Eclipse IV рестайлинг

Starter 24 illustrations ~826 words

<< A >> CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER REMOVAL

With the pipe installed, remove the clutch release cylinder from the transaxle assembly.

<< B >> ATF WARMER (TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER) AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY REMOVAL

With the hose installed, remove the ATF warmer (transmission fluid cooler) and bracket assembly from the transmission case front roll stopper bracket.

<< C >> STARTER ASSEMBLY < M/T > REMOVAL

Remove the starter assembly from above vehicle.

Scheme 2

Scheme 2: << C >> STARTER ASSEMBLY < M/T > REMOVAL

<< D >> STARTER ASSEMBLY < A/T > REMOVAL

Remove the starter assembly from the side of ATF warmer (transmission fluid cooler).

Scheme 3

Scheme 3: << D >> STARTER ASSEMBLY < A/T > REMOVAL

Scheme 4

Scheme 4: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION < 3.8L ENGINE >

<< A >> STARTER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL

Remove the starter assembly from under the vehicle.

Scheme 5

Scheme 5: PINION GAP ADJUSTMENT

Scheme 6

Scheme 6

Scheme 7

Scheme 7

Scheme 8

Scheme 8
  1. Disconnect the lead wire from the M-terminal of the magnetic switch.
  2. Connect a 12-volt battery between the S-terminal and M-terminal. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning.
  3. Set the switch to "ON", and the pinion will move out.
  4. Check the pinion-to-stopper clearance (pinion gap) with a feeler gauge. Standard value: 0.5 - 2.0 mm (0.02 - 0.07 inch)
  5. If the pinion gap is out of specification, adjust by adding or removing gasket(s) between the magnetic switch and front bracket.

Scheme 9

Scheme 9: MAGNETIC SWITCH PULL-IN TEST

Scheme 10

Scheme 10
  1. Disconnect the lead wire from the M-terminal of the magnetic switch. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning.
  2. Connect a 12-volt battery between the S-terminal and M-terminal.
  3. If the pinion moves out, the pull-in coil is good. If it doesn't, replace the magnetic switch.

Scheme 11

Scheme 11: MAGNETIC SWITCH HOLD-IN TEST

Scheme 12

Scheme 12
  1. Disconnect the lead wire from the M-terminal of the magnetic switch. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning.
  2. Connect a 12-volt battery between the S-terminal and body.
  3. Manually pull out the pinion as far as the pinion stopper position.
  4. If the pinion remains out, everything is operating properly. If the pinion moves in, the hold-in circuit is open. Replace the magnetic switch.

Scheme 13

Scheme 13: FREE RUNNING TEST

Scheme 14

Scheme 14
  1. Place the starter motor in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged 12-volt battery to the starter motor as follows
  2. Connect a test ammeter (100-ampere scale) and carbon pile rheostat in series between the positive battery terminal and starter motor terminal.
  3. Connect a voltmeter (15-volt scale) across the starter motor.
  4. Rotate the rheostat to full-resistance position.
  5. Connect the battery cable from the negative battery terminal to the starter motor body.
  6. Adjust the rheostat until the battery positive voltage shown on the voltmeter is 11 V.
  7. Confirm that the maximum amperage is within the specifications and that the starter motor turns smoothly and freely. Current: maximum 90 Amps

Scheme 15

Scheme 15: MAGNETIC SWITCH RETURN TEST

Scheme 16

Scheme 16
  1. Disconnect the lead wire from the M-terminal of the magnetic switch. CAUTION: This test must be performed quickly (in less than 10 seconds) to prevent the coil from burning.
  2. Connect a 12-volt battery between the M-terminal and body. WARNING: Be careful not to get your fingers caught when pulling out the pinion.
  3. Pull the pinion out and release. If the pinion quickly returns to its original position, everything is operating properly. If it doesn't, replace the magnetic switch.

Scheme 17

Scheme 17: DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY

Scheme 18

Scheme 18: << A >> SNAP RING AND STOP RING REMOVAL

Scheme 19

Scheme 19
  1. Press a long socket wrench of appropriate size to the stop ring. Then tap the socket wrench to remove the stop ring to the pinion gear side.
  2. After removing the snap ring (by using snap-ring pliers), remove the stop ring and the overrunning clutch.

>> A << STOP RING AND SNAP RING INSTALLATION

Using a suitable pulling tool, pull the overrunning clutch stop ring over the snap ring.

Scheme 20

Scheme 20: >> A << STOP RING AND SNAP RING INSTALLATION

Scheme 21

Scheme 21: COMMUTATOR CHECK

Scheme 22

Scheme 22

Scheme 23

Scheme 23
  1. Place the armature on a pair of V-blocks, and check the deflection by using a dial gauge. Standard value: 0.05 mm (0.002 inch) Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch)
  2. Check the outer diameter of the commutator. Standard value: 29.4 mm (1.16 inches) Minimum limit: 28.8 mm (1.13 inches)
  3. Check the depth of the undercut between segments. Standard value: 0.5 mm (0.02 inch) Minimum limit: 0.2 mm (0.008 inch)

Scheme 24

Scheme 24: BRUSH CHECK
  1. Check the brush for roughness of the surface that contacts the commutator and check the brush length. Replace the brush holder if this measurement exceeds the limit. Minimum limit: 7.0 mm (0.28 inch)
  2. If the contacting surface has been corrected or the brush has been replaced, correct the contacting surface by winding sandpaper around the commutator.

Scheme 25

Scheme 25: OVERRUNNING CLUTCH CHECK
  1. While holding the clutch housing, rotate the pinion. The drive pinion should rotate smoothly in one direction, but should not rotate in the opposite direction. If the clutch does not function properly, replace the overrunning clutch assembly.
  2. Inspect the pinion for wear or burrs. If the pinion is worn or burred, replace the overrunning clutch assembly. If the pinion is damaged, also inspect the ring gear for wear or burrs.