Engine System - General Information: Diagnosis Mercury Sable V

Inspection and Verification - Engine Performance

1. Verify the customer concern by operating the engine to duplicate the condition.
2. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical damage. Refer to the following chart. VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Engine coolant leaks Engine oil leaks Fuel leaks Damaged or severely worn parts Loose mounting bolts, studs and nuts
3. If the inspection reveals obvious concerns that can be readily identified, repair as necessary.
4. If the cause is not visually evident, connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
5. If the scan tool does not communicate with the VCM: check the VCM connection to the vehicle. check the scan tool connection to the VCM. refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article, No Power To The Scan Tool, to diagnose no power to the scan tool.
6. If the scan tool does not communicate with the vehicle: verify the ignition key is in the ON position. verify the scan tool operation with a known good vehicle. refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article to diagnose no response from the PCM.
7. Carry out the network test. If the scan tool responds with no communication for one or more modules, refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article. If the network test passes, retrieve and record continuous memory DTCs.
8. Clear the continuous DTCs and carry out the self-test diagnostics for the PCM.
9. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the DTC Table, refer to «MULTIFUNCTION ELECTRONIC MODULES»(ref-293473) article.
10. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, go to «Symptom Chart - Engine»(ref-293455-S20732164952008080700000).

Inspection and Verification - NVH

1. NVH symptoms should be identified using the diagnostic tools and techniques that are available. For a list of these techniques, tools, an explanation of their uses and a glossary of common terms, refer to «NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS»(ref-293450) article.
2. Verify the customer concern by operating the engine to duplicate the condition.
3. Check the engine oil level and check the oil for contamination. Low engine oil level or contaminated oil are a common cause of engine noise. If the oil is contaminated, the source of the contamination must be identified and repaired as necessary.
4. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical damage. Refer to the following chart. VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Loose mounting bolts, studs and nuts Damaged or leaking powertrain mounts Damaged or disconnected vacuum hoses Obstruction of cooling fan Obstruction of Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) Damaged or disconnected air intake components
5. If the inspection reveals obvious concerns that can be readily identified, repair as necessary.
6. If the cause is not visually evident, connect the scan tool to the DLC.
7. If the scan tool does not communicate with the VCM: check the VCM connection to the vehicle. check the scan tool connection to the VCM. refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article, No Power To The Scan Tool, to diagnose no power to the scan tool.
8. If the scan tool does not communicate with the vehicle: verify the ignition key is in the ON position. verify the scan tool operation with a known good vehicle. refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article to diagnose no response from the PCM.
9. Carry out the network test. If the scan tool responds with no communication for one or more modules, refer to «MODULE COMMUNICATIONS NETWORK»(ref-293472) article. If the network test passes, retrieve and record continuous memory DTCs.
10. Clear the continuous DTCs and carry out the self-test diagnostics for the PCM.
11. If the DTCs retrieved are related to the concern, go to the DTC Table, refer to «MULTIFUNCTION ELECTRONIC MODULES»(ref-293473) article.
12. If no DTCs related to the concern are retrieved, continue the inspection and verification if a noise concern is related to the engine. For vibration concerns and noise concerns such as powertrain mounts, air intake system and starter Go to «Symptom Chart - NVH»(ref-293455-S13279697422008080700000). In some cases, a noise may be a normal characteristic of that engine type. In other cases the noise may require further investigation. Comparing the noise to a similar year/model vehicle equipped with the same engine will aid in determining if the noise is normal or abnormal. Once a customer concern has been identified as an abnormal engine noise, it is critical to determine the location of the specific noise. Use the EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope (the noise will always be louder closer to the noise source) to isolate the location of the noise to one of the following: Fuel injector(s) Upper end of engine Lower end of engine Front of engine Rear of engine Fuel injector noise - A common source of an engine ticking noise can be related to the fuel injector(s). This is normal engine noise that can be verified by listening to another vehicle. If the injector noise is excessive or irregular, use the EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope to isolate the noise to a specific fuel injector. Upper end engine noise - A common source of upper end engine noise (ticking, knocking or rattle) include the camshaft(s) and valve train. Upper end engine noise can be determined using the EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope on the valve cover bolts. If the noise is loudest from the valve cover bolts, then the noise is upper end. The EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope can be used to further isolate the noise to the specific cylinder bank and cylinder. Removal of the valve covers will be required to pinpoint the source of the noise. Lower end engine noise - A common source of lower end engine noise (ticking or knocking) include the crankshaft, connecting rod(s) and bearings. Lower end noises can be determined by using the oil pan or cylinder block lug bosses. If the noise is loudest from these areas, then the noise is lower end. If an engine noise is isolated to the lower end, some disassembly of the engine may be required to inspect for damage or wear. Front of engine noise - A common source of noise from the front of the engine (squeal, chirp, whine or hoot) is the Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) components. To isolate FEAD noise, carry out the Engine Accessory Test, refer to «NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS»(ref-293450) article. Some other noises from the front of the engine (ticking, tapping or rattle) may be internal to the engine. Use the EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope on the engine front cover to determine if the noise is internal to the engine. Removal of the engine front cover may be necessary to inspect internal engine components. Rear of engine noise - A common source of noise from the rear of the engine (knocking) is the flywheel/flexplate. Inspection of the flywheel/flexplate will be necessary. If equipped, the Rear End Accessory Drive (READ) can also be a source of noise from the rear of the engine (squeal or chirp). The READ consists of the coolant pump and belt. Some engines have timing drive components at the rear of the engine and may be the source of noise (ticking, knocking or rattle). Use the EngineEAR/ChassisEAR or stethoscope on the rear of the engine if the noise is suspected to be internal to the engine. Some disassembly of the engine may be required to inspect for damage or wear.
13. After the noise is localized, note the characteristics of the noise, including type of noise, frequency and conditions when the noise occurs and Go to «Symptom Chart - NVH»(ref-293455-S13279697422008080700000).

Symptom Chart - Engine Performance

Symptom Chart - Engine Performance

Symptom Chart - NVH

Note. NVH symptoms should be identified using the diagnostic tools that are available. For a list of these tools, an explanation of their uses and a glossary of common terms, refer to NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS article. Since it is possible that any one of multiple systems may be the cause of the symptom, it may be necessary to use a process of elimination type of diagnostic approach to pinpoint the responsible system. If this is not the causal system for the symptom, refer back to NOISE, VIBRATION AND HARSHNESS article for the next likely system and continue diagnosis.

Symptom Chart - NVH

Compression Test

1. Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
2. Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
3. Install a compression gauge such as the Compression Tester in the No. 1 cylinder.
4. Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
5. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Compression Test - Test Results

The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.

COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT CHART

If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.

Compression Test - Interpreting Compression Readings

1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are worn or damaged.
2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or not seating correctly.
3. If 2 adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75% of the highest reading.

Oil Consumption Test

Once all of the previous conditions are met, carry out an oil consumption test.

1. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. Install a new manufacturer-specified oil filter. Make sure the vehicle is positioned on a level surface. Refill the oil pan to a level one liter (quart) less than the specified fill level, using manufacturer-specified oil.
2. Run the engine for 3 minutes (if hot) or 10 minutes (if cold). Allow for a minimum 5-minute drainback period and then record the oil level shown on the oil level indicator. Place a mark on the backside of the oil level indicator noting the oil level location.
3. Add the final one liter (quart) to complete the normal oil fill. Restart the engine and allow it to idle for 2 minutes. Shut the engine down.
4. After a 5-minute drainback period, record the location of the oil level again. Mark the oil level indicator with the new oil level location. (Note: Both marks should be very close to the MIN-MAX upper and lower limits or the upper and lower holes on the oil level indicator. These marks will exactly measure the engine's use of oil, with a one quart differential between the new marks.) Demonstrate to the customer that the factory-calibrated marks on the oil level indicator are where the oil should fall after an oil change with the specified fill amount. Explain however, that this may vary slightly between MIN-MAX or the upper and lower holes on the oil level indicator.
5. Record the vehicle mileage.
6. Advise the customer that oil level indicator readings must be taken every 320 km (200 mi) or weekly, using the revised marks as drawn. Remind the customer that the engine needs a minimum 5-minute drainback for an accurate reading and that the oil level indicator must be firmly seated in the tube prior to taking the reading.
7. When the subsequent indicator readings demonstrate a full liter (quart) has been used, record the vehicle mileage. The mileage driven between the 2 readings should not be less than 2,414 km (1,500 mi). The drive cycle the vehicle has been operated under must be considered when making this calculation. It may be necessary to have the customer bring the vehicle in for a periodic oil level indicator reading to closely monitor oil usage.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Connect the Vacuum/Pressure Tester to the intake manifold. Run the engine at the specified idle speed.

The vacuum gauge should read between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is conducted. Subtract 4.0193 kPa (1 in-Hg) from the specified reading for every 304.8 m (1,000 ft) of elevation above sea level.

The reading should be steady. If necessary, adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust the damper until the needle moves easily without excessive flutter.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test - Interpreting Vacuum Gauge Readings

A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Vacuum gauge readings, although helpful, must be interpreted carefully.

Most vacuum gauges have a normal band indicated on the gauge face.

The following are potential gauge readings. Some are normal; others should be investigated further.

Scheme 1

1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
2. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When the engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), the needle will drop to a low reading (not to zero). When the throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
3. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: The needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
4. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When the engine is accelerated (dotted needle), the needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, the needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
5. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
6. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient valve clearance will also cause this reaction.
7. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
8. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, the needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
9. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine RPM is increased, weak valve springs are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
10. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
11. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
12. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
13. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
14. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
15. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal, but as the engine RPM is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
16. When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster, the unit will not function correctly. Always fix vacuum leaks.

Oil Pressure Test

1. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure switch from the engine.
2. Connect the engine Oil Pressure Gauge to the oil pressure switch oil galley port.
3. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
4. Run the engine at the specified RPM and record the gauge reading.
5. The oil pressure should be within specifications; refer to the specification chart in the appropriate engine article.
6. If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources: Insufficient oil Oil leakage Worn or damaged oil pump Oil pump screen cover and tube Excessive main bearing clearance Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance Chain tensioner leak

Camshaft Surface Inspection

1. Inspect camshaft lobes for pitting or damage in the contact area. Minor pitting is acceptable outside the contact area.

Valve Inspection

1. Inspect the following valve areas: The end of the stem for grooves or scoring. The valve face and the edge for pits, grooves or scores. The valve head for signs of burning, erosion, warpage and cracking. The valve margin for wear.

Flexplate Inspection

1. Inspect the flexplate for: any cracks. worn ring gear teeth. chipped or cracked ring gear teeth.

Exhaust Manifold Cleaning and Inspection

Special Tools Illustration Tool Name Tool Number Feeler Gauge Set 303-D027 (D81L-4201-A) or equivalent

1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable solvent. Use a plastic scraping tool to clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
2. Using the Straightedge and a Feeler Gauge Set, check the exhaust manifold sealing surface for warpage. If the warpage is greater than 0.76 mm (0.0299 in), install a new exhaust manifold.

Spark Plug Inspection

1. Inspect the spark plug for a bridged gap. Check for deposit build-up closing the gap between the electrodes. Deposits are caused by oil or carbon fouling. Install a new spark plug.
2. Check for oil fouling. Check for wet, black deposits on the insulator shell bore electrodes, caused by excessive oil entering the combustion chamber through worn rings and pistons, excessive valve-to-guide clearance or worn or loose bearings. Correct the oil leak concern. Install a new spark plug.
3. Inspect for carbon fouling. Look for black, dry, fluffy carbon deposits on the insulator tips, exposed shell surfaces and electrodes, caused by a spark plug with an incorrect heat range, dirty air cleaner, too rich a fuel mixture or excessive idling. Install new spark plugs.
4. Inspect for normal burning. Check for light tan or gray deposits on the firing tip.
5. Inspect for pre-ignition, identified by melted electrodes and a possibly damaged insulator. Metallic deposits on the insulator indicate engine damage. This may be caused by incorrect ignition timing, wrong type of fuel or the unauthorized installation of a heli-coil insert in place of the spark plug threads. Install a new spark plug.
6. Inspect for overheating, identified by white or light gray spots and with a bluish-burnt appearance of electrodes. This is caused by engine overheating, wrong type of fuel, loose spark plugs, spark plugs with an incorrect heat range, low fuel pump pressure or incorrect ignition timing. Install a new spark plug.
7. Inspect for fused deposits, identified by melted or spotty deposits resembling bubbles or blisters. These are caused by sudden acceleration. Install new spark plugs.

Valve Tappet Inspection

1. Inspect the valve tappet for damage, especially in the indicated areas. If any damage is evident, inspect the camshaft lobes and valves for damage. Install new components as necessary.

See also:
• AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION - 6F50
• JACKING AND LIFTING