Crankshaft Bore Code Location
Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the block as a code for the size of each of the four main journal bores.
Use them, and the numbers stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
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- Remove the connecting rod cap and bearing half (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-243325-S00716608202006082300000) ).
- Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
- Place a strip of plastigage across the rod journal.
- Reinstall the bearing half and cap, and torque the bolts. NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection. Tightening Torque: 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft) + 90°
- Remove the rod cap and bearing half and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.020-0.044 mm (0.0008-0.0017 in.) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.0020 in.)
- If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, then install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
- If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(ref-243325-S00716608202006082300000) ).
Connecting Rod Journal Code Locations
Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code for the size of the big end. Use them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank (codes for rod journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
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- If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 7.
- Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height.
- Drain the engine oil (see «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(ref-243292-S28589253382006082300000) ).
- Remove the splash shield (see step 30 in «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-243320-S11044367542006082300000) ).
- Remove the front subframe stiffener (see step 34 in «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-243320-S11044367542006082300000) ).
- Remove exhaust pipe A (see step 35 in «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-243320-S11044367542006082300000) ).
- Remove the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC) bracket.
- Remove the torque converter cover (A) and the four bolts (B) securing the transmission.
- Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
- Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places (Scheme 449)
- Remove the oil pan.
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- Remove the engine assembly (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(ref-243320-S11044367542006082300000) ).
- Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(ref-298124-S10169391752008091500000) ).
- Remove the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(ref-298124-S01354198392008091500000) ).
- Remove the cylinder heads: J35A9 engine (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(ref-243305-S27714391372006082300000) ) J35Z1 engine (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(ref-243305-S16588381732006082300000) )
- Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see «CKP SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(ref-298125-S05885482552008091500000) ).
- Remove the timing belt drive pulley from the crankshaft.
- Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(ref-243325-S19797522142006082300000) ).
- Remove the engine block end cover.
- Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly (J35A9 engine).
- Remove the oil filter base/oil filter assembly (J35Z1 engine).
- Remove the oil screen (A), baffle plate (B), and oil pump (C).
- If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of any cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the piston as it's pushed out.
- Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the crank pin at bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder. Remove the piston/connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod. Take care not to damage the oil jets, crank pin, or cylinder with the connecting rod.
- Remove the bearing from the cap. Keep all caps/ bearings in order.
- Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
- After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the cap on the rod.
- To avoid mix-up during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
- Unscrew the bearing cap bolts and bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
- Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove the bearing cap (C).
- Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals.
- Reinstall the main caps and bearings on the engine block in the proper order.