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Engine System - General Information: Diagnosis Ford Focus I facelift

Mechanical 1 illustration ~2945 words

Inspection and Verification

  1. Verify the customer concern by operating the engine to duplicate the condition.
  2. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical damage. Refer to the following chart. VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Engine coolant leaks Engine oil leaks Fuel leaks Damaged or severely worn parts Loose mounting bolts, studs and nuts
  3. If the inspection reveals obvious concerns that can be readily identified, repair as necessary.
  4. If the concerns remain after the inspection, determine the symptoms. Go to «Symptom Chart»(ref-278256-S15342718842008012400000) .

Symptom Chart

ConditionPossible SourcesAction
Difficult startingInoperative or damaged ignition system Air or vacuum leak Inoperative or damaged fuel system Inoperative or damaged starting systemRefer to ENGINE IGNITION - 2.0L AND 2.3L article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Damaged charging system/batteryREFER to CHARGING SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION article.
Burnt valveINSTALL a new cylinder head.
Worn piston Worn piston rings Worn cylinderINSTALL a new short block.
Damaged head gasketINSTALL a new cylinder head gasket.
Inoperative or damaged cooling system (fail-safe cooling invoked)Refer to ENGINE COOLING article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Poor idlingVacuum leaks Inoperative or damaged exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) systemRefer to ENGINE EMISSION CONTROL - 2.0L AND 2.3L article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Inoperative or damaged ignition systemRefer to ENGINE IGNITION - 2.0L AND 2.3L article for the procedure.
Inoperative or damaged cooling system (fail-safe cooling invoked) Inoperative or damaged fuel systemRefer to ENGINE COOLING article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Incorrect valve clearanceADJUST valve clearance. Refer to the SPECIFICATIONS for the procedure.
Incorrect valve-to-valve seat contactINSTALL a new cylinder head.
Damaged head gasketINSTALL a new cylinder head gasket.
Abnormal combustionInoperative or damaged fuel system Air or vacuum leaks EGR system fault Inoperative or damaged cooling system (fail-safe cooling invoked) Inoperative or damaged ignition systemRefer to the appropriate Engine article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Burnt or sticking valveINSTALL a new cylinder head.
Weak or broken valve springINSTALL a new valve spring.
Carbon accumulation in combustion chamberELIMINATE carbon buildup.
Excessive oil consumptionLeaking oilREPAIR oil leakage.
Inoperative PCV systemREPAIR or INSTALL new components as necessary.
Incorrect oilCHANGE oil to correct specification.
Worn valve stem sealINSTALL a new valve stem seal.
Worn valve stem or valve guideINSTALL a new cylinder head.
Sticking piston rings Worn piston ring groove Worn piston or cylinderINSTALL a new short block.
Engine noiseLeaking exhaust systemREPAIR exhaust leakage.
Incorrect drive belt tensionRefer to ACCESSORY DRIVE article for the procedure.
Worn generator bearingRefer to GENERATOR AND REGULATOR article for the procedure.
Worn or damaged coolant pump bearing Inoperative or damaged cooling systemREFER to ENGINE COOLING article.
Inoperative or damaged fuel system Ignition system knock (spark knock) Inoperative or damaged EGR system Air leaksRefer to the appropriate Engine article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Loose timing chainINSTALL a new timing chain.
Damaged timing chain tensionerINSTALL a new timing chain tensioner.
Excessive main bearing clearance Seized or heat damaged crankshaft main bearing Excessive crankshaft end play Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance Heat damaged connecting rod bearing Damaged connecting rod bushing Worn cylinder Worn piston or piston pin Damaged piston rings Bent connecting rodINSTALL a new short block.
Worn or damaged valve tappetINSTALL a new valve tappet.
Excessive valve tappet clearanceADJUST clearance or INSTALL a new valve tappet.
Broken valve springINSTALL a new valve spring.
Excessive valve guide clearanceINSTALL a new cylinder head assembly.
Insufficient powerInoperative or damaged ignition system Air intake system blockage Lubrication system blockageRefer to the appropriate Engine article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Inoperative or damaged fuel systemRefer to the appropriate Engine article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Oil level too highDRAIN oil to correct level.
Incorrect engine oilINSTALL correct specification engine oil.
Excessive accessory drive belt loading Inoperative or damaged cooling system (fail-safe cooling invoked)Refer to the appropriate Engine article for the procedure. REFER to the Introduction - Gasoline Engines article.
Damaged or plugged exhaust systemINSPECT exhaust system.
Incorrect tire sizeREFER to SUSPENSION SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION article.
Dragging brakesREFER to BRAKE SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION article.
Slipping transmissionRefer to DIAGNOSTIC TESTS for the procedure.
Incorrect valve clearanceADJUST valve clearance. Refer to ENGINE - 2.0L AND 2.3L article for the procedure.
Worn or damaged valve tappetINSTALL a new valve tappet.
Damaged valve tappet guide Compression leakage at valve seat Seized valve stemINSTALL a new cylinder head assembly.
Weak or broken valve springINSTALL a new valve spring.
Worn or damaged camINSTALL a new camshaft.
Damaged head gasketINSTALL a new head gasket.
Cracked or distorted cylinder headINSTALL a new cylinder head assembly.
Damaged, worn or sticking piston ring(s) Worn or damaged pistonINSTALL a new short block.

Symptom Chart

Compression Test - Compression Gauge Check

  1. Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
  2. Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
  3. Install a compression gauge such as the Compression Tester in the No. 1 cylinder.
  4. Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
  5. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.

Compression Test - Test Results

The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75 percent of the highest reading. For additional information, refer to COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT CHART .

Maximum PressureMinimum PressureMaximum PressureMinimum PressureMaximum PressureMinimum PressureMaximum PressureMinimum Pressure
924 kPa (134 psi)696 kPa (101 psi)1,131 kPa (164 psi)848 kPa (123 psi)1,338 kPa (194 psi)1,000 kPa (146 psi)1,544 kPa (224 psi)1,158 kPa (168 psi)
938 kPa (136 psi)703 kPa (102 psi)1,145 kPa (166 psi)855 kPa (124 psi)1,351 kPa (196 psi)1,014 kPa (147 psi)1,558 kPa (226 psi)1,165 kPa (169 psi)
952 kPa (138 psi)717 kPa (104 psi)1,158 kPa (168 psi)869 kPa (126 psi)1,365 kPa (198 psi)1,020 kPa (148 psi)1,572 kPa (228 psi)1,179 kPa (171 psi)
965 kPa (140 psi)724 kPa (106 psi)1,172 kPa (170 psi)876 kPa (127 psi)1,379 kPa (200 psi)1,034 kPa (150 psi)1,586 kPa (230 psi)1,186 kPa (172 psi)
979 kPa (142 psi)738 kPa (107 psi)1,186 kPa (172 psi)889 kPa (129 psi)1,303 kPa (202 psi)1,041 kPa (151 psi)1,600 kPa (232 psi)1,200 kPa (174 psi)
933 kPa (144 psi)745 kPa (109 psi)1,200 kPa (174 psi)903 kPa (131 psi)1,407 kPa (204 psi)1,055 kPa (153 psi)1,055 kPa (153 psi)1,207 kPa (175 psi)
1,007 kPa (146 psi)758 kPa (110 psi)1,214 kPa (176 psi)910 kPa (132 psi)1,420 kPa (206 psi)1,062 kPa (154 psi)1,627 kPa (154 psi)1,220 kPa (177 psi)
1,020 kPa (148 psi)765 kPa (111 psi)1,227 kPa (178 psi)917 kPa (133 psi)1,434 kPa (208 psi)1,075 kPa (156 psi)1,641 kPa (238 psi)1,227 kPa (178 psi)
1,034 kPa (150 psi)779 kPa (113 psi)1,241 kPa (180 psi)931 kPa (135 psi)1,448 kPa (210 psi)1,083 kPa (157 psi)1,655 kPa (240 psi)1,241 kPa (180 psi)
1,048 kPa (152 psi)786 kPa (114 psi)1,255 kPa (182 psi)936 kPa (136 psi)1,462 kPa (212 psi)1,089 kPa (158 psi)1,669 kPa (242 psi)1,248 kPa (181 psi)
1,062 kPa (154 psi)793 kPa (115 psi)1,269 kPa (184 psi)952 kPa (138 psi)1,476 kPa (214 psi)1,103 kPa (160 psi)1,682 kPa (244 psi)1,262 kPa (183 psi)
1,076 kPa (156 psi)807 kPa (117 psi)1,282 kPa (186 psi)965 kPa (140 psi)1,489 kPa (216 psi)1,117 kPa (162 psi)1,696 kPa (246 psi)1,269 kPa (184 psi)
1,089 kPa (158 psi)814 kPa (118 psi)1,296 kPa (188 psi)972 kPa (141 psi)1,503 kPa (218 psi)1,124 kPa (163 psi)1,710 kPa (248 psi)1,202 kPa (186 psi)
1,103 kPa (160 psi)827 kPa (120 psi)1,310 kPa (190 psi)979 kPa (142 psi)1,517 kPa (220 psi)1,138 kPa (165 psi)1,724 kPa (250 psi)1,289 kPa (187 psi)
1,110 kPa (161 psi)834 kPa (121 psi)1,324 kPa (192 psi)993 kPa (144 psi)1,631 kPa (222 psi)1,145 kPa (166 psi)

COMPRESSION PRESSURE LIMIT CHART

If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.

Compression Test - Interpreting Compression Readings

  1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are worn or damaged.
  2. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or not seating correctly.
  3. If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so that the lowest reading is within 75 percent of the highest reading.

Oil Consumption Test

Once all of the previous conditions are met, carry out an oil consumption test.

  1. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. Install a new manufacturer-specified oil filter. Make sure the vehicle is positioned on a level surface. Refill the oil pan to a level one quart (liter) less than the specified fill level, using manufacturer-specified oil.
  2. Run the engine for 3 minutes (if hot) or 10 minutes (if cold). Allow for a minimum 5-minute drainback period and then record the oil level shown on the oil level indicator. Place a mark on the backside of the oil level indicator noting the oil level location.
  3. Add the final 1 quart (liter) to complete the normal oil fill. Restart the engine and allow it to idle for 2 minutes. Shut the engine down.
  4. After a 5-minute drainback period, record the location of the oil level again. Mark the oil level indicator with the new oil level location. (Note: Both marks should be very close to the MIN-MAX upper and lower limits or the upper and lower holes on the oil level indicator. These marks will exactly measure the engine's use of oil, with a one quart differential between the new marks.) Demonstrate to the customer that the factory-calibrated marks on the dipstick are where the oil should fall after an oil change with the specified fill amount. Explain however, that this may vary slightly between MIN-MAX or the upper and lower holes on the oil level indicator.
  5. Record the vehicle mileage.
  6. Advise the customer that oil level indicator readings must be taken every 320 km (200 miles) or weekly, using the revised marks as drawn. Remind the customer that the engine needs a minimum 5-minute drainback for an accurate reading and that the oil level indicator must be firmly seated in the tube prior to taking the reading.
  7. When the subsequent indicator readings demonstrate a full quart (liter) has been used, record the vehicle mileage. The mileage driven between the 2 readings should not be less than 1,500 miles. The drive cycle the vehicle has been operated under must be considered when making this calculation. It may be necessary to have the customer bring the vehicle in for a periodic oil level indicator reading to closely monitor oil usage.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test

Bring the engine to normal operating temperature. Connect the Vacuum/Pressure Tester to the intake manifold. Run the engine at the specified idle speed.

The vacuum gauge should read between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is conducted. Subtract 4.0193 kPa (1 in-Hg) from the specified reading for every 304.8 m (1,000 feet) of elevation above sea level.

The reading should be steady. If necessary, adjust the gauge damper control (where used) if the needle is fluttering rapidly. Adjust the damper until the needle moves easily without excessive flutter.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Test - Interpreting Vacuum Gauge Readings

A careful study of the vacuum gauge reading while the engine is idling will help pinpoint trouble areas. Always conduct other appropriate tests before arriving at a final diagnostic decision. Vacuum gauge readings, although helpful, must be interpreted carefully.

Most vacuum gauges have a normal band indicated on the gauge face.

The following are potential gauge readings. Some are normal; others should be investigated further.

Scheme 89

Scheme 89: Intake Manifold Vacuum Test - Interpreting Vacuum Gauge Readings
  1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
  2. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When the engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), the needle will drop to a low reading (not to zero). When the throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
  3. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: The needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
  4. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When the engine is accelerated (dotted needle), the needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, the needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
  5. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
  6. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient valve clearance will also cause this reaction.
  7. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
  8. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, the needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
  9. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine RPM is increased, weak valve springs are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
  10. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
  11. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
  12. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
  13. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
  14. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
  15. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal, but as the engine RPM is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
  16. When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster, the unit will not function correctly. Always fix vacuum leaks.

Oil Pressure Test

  1. Disconnect and remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine.
  2. Connect the Engine Oil Pressure Gauge to the oil pressure sender oil galley port.
  3. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
  4. Run the engine at the specified RPM and record the gauge reading.
  5. The oil pressure should be within specifications; For additional information, refer to the specification chart in «ENGINE - 2.0L AND 2.3L»(ref-278254) article.
  6. If the pressure is not within specification, check the following possible sources: insufficient oil oil leakage worn or damaged oil pump oil pump screen cover and tube excessive main bearing clearance excessive connecting rod bearing clearance chain tensioner leak

Camshaft Surface Inspection

  1. Inspect camshaft lobes for pitting or damage in the contact area. Minor pitting is acceptable outside the contact area. If excessive pitting or damage is present, install new components as necessary. Refer to «ENGINE - 2.0L AND 2.3L»(ref-278254) article for the procedure.

Valve Inspection

  1. Inspect the following valve areas: The end of the stem for grooves or scoring. The valve face and the edge for pits, grooves or scores. The valve head for signs of burning, erosion, warpage and cracking. The valve margin for wear.

Flywheel Inspection

Special Tools Illustration Tool Name Tool Number Holding Tool, Flywheel 303-103 (T74P-6375-A)

CAUTIONDo not clean the dual mass flywheel with any kind of fluid, use a dry cloth only.
CAUTIONDo not clean the gap between the primary and secondary mass. Only clean the bolt connection surface and the clutch surface.
  1. Check the transaxle fluid level and fill to the correct level as necessary.
  2. With the engine operating at idle and the transaxle in NEUTRAL, listen and check for unacceptable noise. Determine if any unacceptable noise is reduced when the clutch pedal is depressed.
  3. If unacceptable noise is identified, remove the transaxle. For additional information, refer to «MANUAL TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION»(ref-278298) article.
  4. Inspect the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. If a leak is identified, install a new clutch slave cylinder. For additional information, refer to «MANUAL TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION»(ref-278298) article.
  5. Inspect the sliding surfaces of the clutch release hub and bearing. Any scoring or burr should be removed with a fine grade of emery paper.
  6. Inspect the transaxle input shaft for spline wear, scoring or burrs. Any scoring or burr should be removed with a fine grade of emery paper. If spline wear is identified, install a new transaxle. For additional information, refer to «MANUAL TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION»(ref-278298) article.
  7. Remove the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to «CLUTCH»(ref-278299) article. Discard the clutch disc.
  8. Inspect the clutch pressure plate and diaphragm spring segments and discard as necessary. Inspect the clutch pressure plate for scoring, cracks or discoloration. Any minor scoring or discoloration should be removed with a fine grade of emery cloth. Inspect the clutch diaphragm spring segments for damage, uneven height, scoring, cracks or discoloration. Any minor scoring or discoloration should be removed with a fine grade of emery cloth.
  9. With the dual mass flywheel installed on the engine, inspect the dual mass flywheel surface for scoring, cracks, discoloration or damage. If any of these conditions exist, install a new flywheel.
  10. With the dual mass flywheel installed on the engine, inspect the dual mass flywheel internal spring operation using the following Steps 11-13.
  11. Install the special tool.
  12. Using a suitable long screwdriver or bar, firmly rotate the secondary mass clockwise. The secondary mass should begin to engage the internal spring past the freeplay movement of 19 mm (0.750 in) maximum. The secondary mass should continue to rotate and engage the internal spring with increasing spring pressure. If the secondary mass does not rotate, install a new dual mass flywheel.
  13. Using a suitable long screwdriver or bar, firmly rotate the secondary mass counterclockwise. The secondary mass should begin to engage the internal spring past the freeplay movement of 19 mm (0.750 in) maximum. The secondary mass should continue to rotate and engage the internal spring with increasing spring pressure. If the secondary mass does not rotate, install a new dual mass flywheel.
  14. Using a suitable long screwdriver or bar, firmly rotate the secondary mass clockwise and counterclockwise until the dual mass flywheel friction control plate is centered between the secondary mass notches.
  15. Inspect the dual mass flywheel friction control plate for damage or melting and install a new dual mass flywheel if necessary.
  16. With the dual mass flywheel installed on the engine, inspect the dual mass flywheel rotational freeplay using the following Steps 17-21.
  17. Check that the dual mass flywheel friction control plate is centered between the secondary mass notches.
  18. Place a reference mark on the secondary mass of the dual mass flywheel.
  19. Using light hand pressure, rotate the secondary mass clockwise to the end of the freeplay. Place a reference mark on the primary mass of the dual mass flywheel, in line with the reference mark on the secondary mass.
  20. Using light hand pressure, rotate the secondary mass counterclockwise to the end of the freeplay. Place a second reference mark on the primary mass of the dual mass flywheel, in line with the reference mark on the secondary mass.
  21. Measure the rotational freeplay XX between the 2 reference marks on the primary mass of the dual mass flywheel. If the rotational freeplay exceeds 19 mm (0.750 in), install a new dual mass flywheel.
  22. Inspect the dual mass flywheel when removed from the engine and placed on a bench, using the following Steps 23-24.
  23. Remove the dual mass flywheel and place it on a firm and level surface. Discard the dual mass flywheel retaining bolts and remove the special tool.
  24. Using a suitable dial indicator gauge and holding fixture, inspect the dual mass flywheel hub bush for wear and install new as necessary. Place a dial indicator gauge at a point on the outer upper surface of the secondary mass. Using light hand pressure, press downward at the opposite point on the outer upper surface of the secondary mass and note the deflection on the dial indicator gauge. Repeat this measurement at 120 degree intervals around the dual mass flywheel and note any deflection. If the deflection exceeds 1.5 mm (0.060 in) at any point, install a new dual mass flywheel.
  25. Inspect the rear face of the engine block. Make sure that the 2 engine dowel pins are correctly installed and are not damaged, install new dowel pins as necessary. Inspect the upper and lower engine block rear face plates for damage or warping and install new plates as necessary. Inspect the crankshaft flange for residual thread locking compound or rust, and clean as necessary.
  26. Inspect the transaxle mounting face. Make sure that the 2 dowel pin holes are not elongated or damaged.
  27. Inspect the dual mass flywheel crankshaft mounting flange for residual thread locking compound or rust and clean as necessary.
  28. Loosely install the dual mass flywheel.
  29. Install the special tool.
  30. Tighten the dual mass flywheel retaining bolts in the sequence shown to 112 Nm (83 lb-ft).
  31. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. For additional information, refer to «CLUTCH»(ref-278299) article.
  32. Install the transaxle. For additional information, refer to «MANUAL TRANSAXLE/TRANSMISSION»(ref-278298) article.

Exhaust Manifold Cleaning and Inspection

Special Tools Illustration Tool Name Tool Number Feeler Gauge Set 303-D027 (D81L-4201-A) or equivalent

  1. Clean the exhaust manifold using a suitable solvent. Use a plastic scraping tool to clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
  2. Using the precision straight edge and a feeler gauge, check the exhaust manifold sealing surface for warpage. If the warpage is greater than 0.76 mm (0.0299 in), install a new exhaust manifold.

Spark Plug Inspection

  1. Inspect the spark plug for a bridged gap. Check for deposit build-up closing the gap between the electrodes. Deposits are caused by oil or carbon fouling. Install a new spark plug.
  2. Check for oil fouling. Check for wet, black deposits on the insulator shell bore electrodes, caused by excessive oil entering the combustion chamber through worn rings and pistons, excessive valve-to-guide clearance or worn or loose bearings. Correct the oil leak concern. Install a new spark plug.
  3. Inspect for carbon fouling. Look for black, dry, fluffy carbon deposits on the insulator tips, exposed shell surfaces and electrodes, caused by a spark plug with an incorrect heat range, dirty air cleaner, too rich a fuel mixture or excessive idling. Install new spark plugs.
  4. Inspect for normal burning. Check for light tan or gray deposits on the firing tip.
  5. Inspect for pre-ignition, identified by melted electrodes and a possibly damaged insulator. Metallic deposits on the insulator indicate engine damage. This may be caused by incorrect ignition timing, wrong type of fuel or the unauthorized installation of a heli-coil insert in place of the spark plug threads. Install a new spark plug.
  6. Inspect for overheating, identified by white or light gray spots and with a bluish-burnt appearance of electrodes. This is caused by engine overheating, wrong type of fuel, loose spark plugs, spark plugs with an incorrect heat range, low fuel pump pressure or incorrect ignition timing. Install a new spark plug.
  7. Inspect for fused deposits, identified by melted or spotty deposits resembling bubbles or blisters. These are caused by sudden acceleration. Install new spark plugs.

Valve Tappet Inspection

  1. Inspect the valve tappet for damage, especially in the indicated areas. If any damage is evident, inspect the camshaft lobes and valves for damage. Install new components as necessary.