5.2l v8 - VIN [t] Dodge Ram Van II

ENGINE CODING

Note. For engine repair procedures not covered in this article, see ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES - GENERAL INFORMATION article in the GENERAL INFORMATION section.

ENGINE IDENTIFICATION

Engine can be identified by the eighth character in the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). VIN is located on a plate attached to upper left corner of instrument panel, near windshield.

Engine Identification Number (EIN) is located on a pad, on right side engine block pan rail, to rear of engine mount.

ENGINE IDENTIFICATION CODES

SPECIAL ENGINE MARKS

Information identifying undersize and oversize components will be found at various engine locations. It is decoded as follows

1. "M" or "R" followed by number, indicates which main or rod bearing journal is .001" (.03 mm) undersize. This mark will be stamped on No. 8 crankshaft counterweight on 5.2L engines.
2. "MX" or "RX" indicates all main or rod bearing journals are .010" (.25 mm) undersize. Marked on No. 8 crankshaft counterweight (5.2L).
3. "A" indicates .020" (.51 mm) oversize cylinder bores. Follows engine identification number.
4. "n" indicates .008" (.20 mm) oversize lifters. Located on top pad, front of engine, and stamped on flat ground on outside surface of each oversize lifter bore.
5. "X" indicates .005" (.13 mm) oversize valve stems. Found on milled pad near two 3/8" tapped holes on each end of cylinder head.

ENGINE REMOVAL

See the ENGINE REMOVAL - V8 article in this section.

Removal

1. Drain cooling system and disconnect battery ground cable. Remove alternator, air cleaner and fuel line. Disconnect accelerator linkage. Remove vacuum hose between carburetor and distributor.
2. Remove distributor cap and wires. Disconnect by-pass hose and heater hoses. Disconnect power brake vacuum hose, if equipped. Remove PCV and fuel evaporation hoses. Remove valve covers.
3. Disconnect the coil, carburetor, choke and temperature sending unit wiring. Remove the intake manifold, coil and carburetor as an assembly.

Inspection

1. Clean manifold in solvent and blow dry. Inspect manifold mating surfaces for warpage using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Surface must not be warped beyond .009" (.23 mm) per foot of manifold length.
2. Inspect manifold for cracks and/or distortion. Check exhaust crossover passages through manifold. If plugged with carbon, scrape or sandblast clean. Replace manifold as necessary.

Installation

1. Lightly coat intake manifold side gaskets with sealer.
2. Install manifold side gaskets. Coat front and rear intake manifold end gaskets and cylinder block with a quick-dry cement. Allow cement to dry 4-5 minutes.
3. Install end gaskets, ensuring end holes in gaskets are locked into tangs of head gasket. Place a 1/4" bead of silicone sealer at each of the 4 intake manifold-to-cylinder head gasket corners.
4. Position intake manifold on engine. Inspect gaskets for correct positioning. Install bolts finger tight. Tighten bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 N.m). Tighten bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 N.m). (Scheme 18)

Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence Tighten bolts in 3 steps as indicated in text above. Scheme 18

Disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifold. Remove bolts, nuts and washers securing manifold to cylinder head. Remove manifold. Replace any studs that come out during manifold removal with new studs.

1. Clean manifold with solvent and blow dry. Inspect manifold mating surfaces for warpage using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Surface must not be warped beyond .008" (.20 mm) per foot of manifold length.
2. Test operation of heat riser valve (on right-side exhaust manifold). If binding, apply manifold heat control valve solvent (to cold manifold) on both ends of shaft, at bushings. Allow solvent to soak for a few minutes, then work back and forth until valve moves freely. Reapply solvent as necessary.

1. Install new studs, if necessary. Apply sealant to coarse threads of studs to prevent coolant leaks. Position manifold on studs and install conical washers and nuts. Install conical washers and bolts to inner end of outer manifold arms.
2. Install remaining bolts (without conical washers) to center arm of manifold. Starting at center arm of exhaust manifold and working outward, tighten manifold bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N.m) and nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 N.m). Connect and tighten exhaust pipe.

1. Drain cooling system and disconnect negative battery cable. Remove intake and exhaust manifolds as previously described. Remove alternator. Remove rocker arm shaft assemblies.
2. Label push rods to ensure installation in original location, then remove. Remove head bolts and cylinder head.

Clean all gasket surfaces of cylinder block and head. Coat new head gaskets with sealer and install on cylinder block. Install cylinder head. Install and tighten head bolts in 2 steps. (Scheme 19) Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence Tighten head bolts in two steps. Scheme 19

Valve Arrangement

E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E (Both banks, front-to-rear).

1. Disconnect spark plug wires, PCV and fuel evaporation hoses. Remove valve covers. Remove bolts and retainers attaching rocker shaft assembly to cylinder head.
2. Remove rocker arms and shaft as an assembly. Label push rods to ensure installation in original location, then remove. Remove rocker arms from shaft. (Scheme 20)and (Scheme 21).

Identifying Rocker Arms Note difference in rocker arms. Scheme 20

1. Install push rods in original locations. Install rocker arm and shaft assembly with notch on end of rocker arm shaft on bottom; toward front of engine on left bank and toward rear of engine on right bank.
2. Ensure that long, stamped steel retainers are installed in number two and four positions. Tighten bolts to 200 INCH lbs. (23 N.m). Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Locating Rocker Arms on Shaft Install long retainers in number two and four positions. Scheme 21

VALVES & VALVE SPRINGS

1. With cylinder head removed, compress valve springs using valve spring compressor. Remove retainer locks, valve spring retainers, valve springs and valve stem oil seals.
2. Before removing valves from head, remove any burrs from valve stem lock grooves to prevent damage to valve guides. Label valves to ensure installation in original locations. Remove valves.

1. Valve springs should be tested whenever they are removed from cylinder head. Using a valve spring tester, check spring tension. Replace springs that are not to specification.
2. Inspect each spring for squareness, using steel square and flat surface. Replace spring if more than 5/64" (2 mm) out-of-square. Clean valves thoroughly. Discard burned, warped or cracked valves.
3. Measure valve head margin. Margin thickness should be a minimum of .047" (1.19 mm). Measure valve stem diameter. Intake valve stem diameter should be .372-.373" (9.45-9.47 mm). Exhaust valve stem diameter should be .371-.372" (9.42-9.45 mm).

Scheme 22

1. Lubricate valve stems and install valves in cylinder head. If valves or seats have been reground, check valve stem height using Gauge (C-3968). (Scheme 22)
2. If valve is too long, grind tip of valve stem until length is within limits. Do not grind valve stem tip on exhaust valves if engine is equipped with rotators. (Scheme 22): Measuring Valve Stem Length Do not grind valve stem tips on exhaust valves if engine is equipped with rotators.
3. Install new oil seals on valve stems and over valve guides. Install springs and retainers. See «VALVE SPRING COLOR CODE»(/dodge/ram-van/ii-1979-1993/remont/mechanical/#52l-v8-vin-t) table below. Compress valve springs with compressor and install locks.

VALVE SPRING COLOR CODE

Valve Spring Installed Height

1. If valves or seats are reground, measure installed height of springs. Measure from bottom surface of spring seat to bottom of spring retainer. If spacers are installed, measure from top of spacer to bottom of valve retainer.
2. If installed height is incorrect, install a 1/16" (1.7 mm) spacer between valve spring and cylinder head to correct spring height.

VALVE SPRING INSTALLED HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

Valve Stem Oil Seals

Cup-type oil seals are used on all valves. If seals are removed for any reason, new seals must be used upon reassembly. See VALVE SPRINGS for removal and installation procedures.

Scheme 23

1. With valve spring assembly removed and valve guide cleaned, install Sleeve (C-3937) over valve stem. Install valve in cylinder head.
2. Attach dial indicator to cylinder head, and position indicator at right angle to valve head in guide being measured. (Scheme 23) Total side play should not exceed.017" (.43 mm). (Scheme 23): Measuring Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance Total side play should not exceed.017" (.43 mm).
3. If valve guides require reaming, do not attempt to ream guides from standard to.030" (.76 mm) oversize in 1 step. Use step-up procedure when reaming to.030" (.76 mm) oversize.
4. Replacement valves with oversize stems are available in.005" (.13 mm),.015" (.38 mm) and.030" (.76 mm) oversize.

Scheme 24

1. Prior to testing, disassemble lifter. Clean lifter inside and out to remove varnish and carbon deposits.
2. To test, remove cap from plunger and plunger from lifter body. (Scheme 24) Fill lifter body with clean kerosene. Unseat check valve to permit complete installation of plunger. Install cap. (Scheme 24): Hydraulic Lifter Assembly Parts are not interchangeable between lifters.
3. Place lifter upright in Lifter Tester (C-4343) and check leak-down by compressing tester handle. If lifter collapses immediately, disassemble, clean and retest. If rapid leak-down still occurs, replace lifter.
4. If lifter or lifter bore in cylinder block is scuffed, scored, or shows signs of sticking, ream bore to next oversize and replace with oversize lifter.

1. Disconnect battery. Drain cooling system. Remove power steering pump, if equipped. Remove cooling fan and pulley. Remove radiator and water pump assembly. Remove crankshaft pulley and vibration damper.
2. Remove fuel lines and fuel pump. Loosen oil pan bolts and remove front bolts on each side. Remove front cover and gasket, using care not to damage oil pan gasket.

1. Check that mating surfaces of cover and cylinder block are clean and free from burrs. Apply a 1/8" bead of silicone sealer to oil pan gasket. Apply Lubriplate to front cover oil seal lip. Install front cover and attaching bolts, but don't tighten bolts at this time.
2. Install vibration damper onto crankshaft to align oil seal, then tighten damper center bolt. Tighten front cover bolts, then oil pan bolts. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Disconnect battery. Remove belts from crankshaft pulley. Remove fan and shroud from engine. Remove crankshaft pulley and vibration damper. Pry seal outward from behind lip, being careful not to damage crankshaft or seal recess in front cover.

1. Install new seal using Seal Installer (C-4251). Install threaded shaft of installer in threads of crankshaft. Place seal into opening, with spring facing rear of engine.
2. Place Installing Adapter (C-4251-3) with thrust bearing and nut on shaft. (Scheme 25) Tighten nut until installer is flush with front cover. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Installing Front Cover Seal Tighten nut until installer is flush with cover. Scheme 25

Checking for Stretch

1. Remove front cover. Place torque wrench with socket on camshaft sprocket lock bolt. Using 30 ft. lbs. (41 N.m) torque (with cylinder heads installed) or 15 ft. lbs. (20 N.m) torque (with cylinder heads removed), turn camshaft sprocket in normal direction of rotation to remove chain slack. Do not allow crankshaft to rotate.
2. Place a steel rule next to timing chain to measure amount of chain movement. Apply same torque in reverse direction and measure amount of chain movement. (Scheme 26) If movement exceeds 1/8" (3 mm), install new timing chain.

Measuring Timing Chain Stretch Do not allow crankshaft to rotate. Scheme 26

1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove all fan belts. Remove cooling fan and pulley. Remove alternator and mounting bracket. Remove A/C compressor and set aside. Do not disconnect hoses from compressor. Remove water pump and power steering pump.
2. Remove crankshaft pulley and vibration damper. Remove front cover. Remove camshaft sprocket bolt, cup washer and fuel pump eccentric. Remove timing chain with crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

1. Place camshaft and crankshaft sprockets on bench with timing marks on an imaginary center line through bore of both sprockets. Place timing chain around both sprockets.
2. Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with keyway locations in sprockets. With chain placed on sprockets, slide both sprockets evenly over their respective shafts. (Scheme 27)
3. Use a straightedge to measure alignment of timing marks. Install fuel pump eccentric, cup washer and camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten bolt and check camshaft end play.

Aligning Timing Chain Sprocket Marks Align chain and sprockets on bench prior to installation. Scheme 27

VALVE TIMING

1. Rotate crankshaft until No. 6 exhaust valve is closing and No. 6 intake valve is opening. Insert a 1/4" spacer between rocker arm and valve stem tip of No. 1 intake valve.
2. Insertion of spacer should bleed down lifter, bottoming lifter plunger. Install a dial indicator on No. 1 intake valve, so plunger contacts valve spring retainer as nearly perpendicular as possible. Zero dial indicator.
3. Rotate crankshaft clockwise until dial indicator shows .010" (.25 mm) of lift for 5.2L. If valve timing is correct, crankshaft pulley timing should be between 10° BTDC and 2° ATDC.
4. Inspect sprocket index marks, timing chain wear and accuracy of "TDC" mark on timing indicator, if reading is not within limits.

CAMSHAFT

Note. Whenever a new camshaft is installed, install new valve lifters.

1. With engine removed from vehicle, remove intake manifold, front cover and timing chain. Remove rocker shaft assemblies. Label push rods and valve lifters for installation in original locations, then remove. Replace any lifter that exhibits a "dished" wear condition.
2. Remove distributor. Lift out distributor/oil pump drive shaft. Remove camshaft thrust plate, noting location of oil tab. Install long bolt into front of camshaft to aid in removal of camshaft from engine. Remove the camshaft, taking care not to damage the camshaft bearings.

1. Lubricate camshaft lobes and bearing journals. Insert camshaft to within 2" (51 mm) of its final position in block. Install Camshaft Holder (C-3509) in distributor drive hole, and hold in position using distributor lock bolt. This prevents camshaft from contacting and possibly knocking out welch plug in rear of block.
2. Install thrust plate and chain oil tab. Ensure top edge of tab is flat against thrust plate to provide oil for chain lubrication. Install timing chain and sprockets. Install fuel pump eccentric, cup washer and camshaft sprocket bolt. (Scheme 28)
3. Remove camshaft holder. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Exploded View of Camshaft Assembly. Scheme 28

Camshaft End Play Check

End play is taken by thrust plate behind camshaft sprocket. End play should be .002-.010" (.05-.25 mm). If end play is not within specifications, replace thrust plate.

With engine completely disassembled, drive out rear cam bearing welch plug. Using camshaft bearing remover/installer, drive out bearings.

1. Using camshaft bearing remover/installer, install new bearings. Ensure oil feed holes from crankshaft main bearings are aligned with oil holes in bearing. Ensure that No. 2 bearing oil hole aligns with oil passage going to left cylinder head.
2. Ensure that No. 4 bearing oil hole aligns with oil passage going to right cylinder head. Replace camshaft welch plug at rear of engine. Be sure plug does not leak.

Rotate crankshaft so that cylinder No. 1 is at TDC on compression stroke. Remove distributor and distributor drive shaft. Insert Bushing Puller (C-3502) into bushing and thread down until a tight fit is obtained. Hold puller bolt and rotate puller nut until bushing is removed.

1. Slide new bushing over burnishing end of Bushing Installer (C-3503). Insert installer and bushing into block. Drive bushing and installer into place using a hammer. Tighten nut to pull installer through bushing.
2. Installer will expand bushing tight in block and burnish it to correct size. Install distributor drive shaft so that slot is aligned from front-to-rear of engine. Install distributor with rotor positioned to No. 1 cylinder in distributor cap.

Note. DO NOT ream distributor drive shaft bushing.

OIL PAN

See ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL - V8 article in this section.

1. Remove cylinder head and oil pan. Place piston at bottom of stroke and cover top of piston to collect cuttings. Remove ridge at top of cylinder bore using ridge reamer.
2. Inspect connecting rods and caps for cylinder identification and mark as necessary. Remove rod cap. Cover exposed rod cap bolts with rubber hose to protect crankshaft. Carefully push piston out top of cylinder bore and install rod caps on mating rods.

Scheme 29

1. Compression ring gaps must be staggered so neither is in line with oil ring rail gap. Ensure identification marks on compression rings are facing upward.
2. Oil ring expander ends should be butted under notch (front) of piston. Oil ring rail gaps should be facing middle of engine (when installed), and spread 3" (76 mm) apart. (Scheme 29) (Scheme 29): Positioning Oil Rings for Installation Do not allow ring gaps to change during installation.
3. Immerse piston and rings in clean engine oil and slide ring compressor over piston, and tighten. Do not allow position of rings to change. Ensure connecting rod bolts are covered, to protect cylinder bore and crankshaft journal surfaces from being damaged during piston installation.
4. Rotate crankshaft so connecting rod journal is in center of cylinder bore at bottom of stroke. Position piston in cylinder bore. Notch on piston head must face front of engine, and larger connecting rod chamfer must face crankshaft fillet.
5. Tap piston into cylinder bore using hammer handle. Guide connecting rod into place on crankshaft journal. Install rod cap, and tighten.

Fitting Pistons

Note. Make all measurements at 70°F (21°C).

1. Check cylinder bore for taper or out-of-round, using a dial bore gauge. Maximum allowable cylinder bore taper is .010" (.25 mm), and out-of-round must not exceed .005" (.13 mm).
2. If cylinder walls show excessive taper or out-of-round, or are badly worn, they will require reboring and honing for installation of new pistons and rings.
3. If cylinders are honed, wash thoroughly with scrub brush and soapy water, then rinse well. Oil bores after cleaning to prevent rust. Piston assemblies are available in standard and .020" (.51 mm) oversize.
4. With piston and cylinder bores dry and clean, measure piston diameter at top of skirt, 90° to piston pin axis. Measure cylinder bore halfway down cylinder and 90° to crankshaft centerline. Difference between measurements is piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. Clearance should be .0005-.0015" (.013-.038 mm).

Fitting Rings

1. Measure ring end gap in cylinder bore with feeler gauge. Ring must be square in bore, about 2" (50 mm) from bottom of bore. With ring lands clean, measure ring side clearance between ring and ring land with feeler gauge. Oil ring rails should be free in groove.
2. When installing oil rings, ensure ring expander ends are butted under notch (front) of piston. Oil ring rail gaps should be facing middle of engine upon installation, and spread 3" (76 mm) apart. (Scheme 29)
3. When installing compression rings, ensure end gaps are staggered, so neither is in line with oil ring rail gaps. (Scheme 29) Ensure identification marks on compression rings are facing upward.

1. Use Piston Pin Remover/Installer (C-4158) for pin removal, using proper pilots and anvils. Install pilot on main screw, and install screw through piston pin.
2. Install anvil (with spring removed) over threaded end of main screw, with small end of anvil against piston boss. Install nut loosely on main screw, and press piston pin out. (Scheme 30)

Removing Piston Pin. Scheme 30

Scheme 31

1. Test piston pin fit in piston. Pin should be a sliding fit in piston at 70°F (21°C). Piston pins are available in standard,.003" (.08 mm) and.008" (.20 mm) oversize.
2. Arrange piston pilot for installation of piston pin. Install spring inside pilot, and install spring and pilot in anvil. Lubricate piston pin bores and connecting rod pin bore. Install piston pin over main screw. (Scheme 31) (Scheme 31): Installing Piston Pin
3. Place piston (with notch up) and connecting rod over pilot, so pilot extends through piston pin bores. Assemble rods to pistons of the right cylinder bank (2, 4, 6 and 8) with the indent on the piston head opposite to the larger chamfer on the large bore end of the connecting rod.
4. Assemble rods to pistons of the left cylinder bank (1, 3, 5 and 7) with indent on piston head on the same side as the large chamfer on large bore end of connecting rod.
5. Install main screw and piston pin in piston, and install nut on main screw to hold assembly together. Press piston pin in, until piston pin bottoms on pilot.

Checking Pin Fit

Assemble piston pin remover/installer as for piston pin removal. Secure butt end of main screw in vise. Attach a torque wrench to nut, and test torque to 15 ft. lbs. (20 N.m). If connecting rod moves downward on piston pin, replace connecting rod and retest.

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

Note. Use Plastigage method for checking bearing clearances. Remove oil film from surfaces to be checked.

1. New bearings are available in standard, .001" (.03 mm), .002" (.05 mm), .003" (.08 mm), .010" (.25 mm) and .012" (.31 mm) oversize. Always install bearings in pairs. Do not use a new bearing half with an old bearing half.
2. Install connecting rod bearings so formed tang fits into machined groove in connecting rod. Install rod caps. "V" groove of bearing must match "V" groove of cap. Tighten nuts.

Scheme 32

1. Check main bearing oil clearance 1 journal at a time. To accurately determine clearance, weight of crankshaft must first be eliminated (when checking with engine installed). A.010" (.25 mm) minimum thickness cardboard shim (matchbook cover) should be used for this purpose.
2. Remove crankshaft main cap(s) on either side of bearing being checked. See «MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE CHECK»(/dodge/ram-van/ii-1979-1993/remont/mechanical/#52l-v8-vin-t) table below. When checking clearance of No. 1 or No. 5 main bearings, remove only adjacent main cap.
3. Place a cardboard shim between bearing shell(s) and cap(s) which were removed. Install these "shimmed" bearing cap(s) and tighten to 10-15 ft. lbs. (14-20 N.m). MAIN BEARING CLEARANCE CHECK When Checking Shim Number 1 Bearing Number 2 Bearing Number 2 Bearing Number 1 & 3 Bearings Number 3 Bearing Number 2 & 4 Bearings Number 4 Bearing Number 3 & 5 Bearing Number 5 Bearing Number 4 Bearing
4. Measure clearance, using Plastigage method. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116 N.m). New bearings are available in standard,.001" (.03 mm),.002" (.05 mm),.003" (.08 mm),.010" (.25 mm) and.012" (.31 mm) oversize. Do not use an old bearing half with a new bearing half.
5. Upper and lower bearings are not interchangeable. (Scheme 32) Lower bearings 1, 2 and 4 are interchangeable. Upper bearings 1, 2 and 4 are interchangeable. (Scheme 32): Main Bearing Identification Upper (grooved) and lower (plain) bearings are not interchangeable.
6. Replace main bearings 1 at a time. To extract upper main bearing from cylinder block, insert Pin (C-3059) into oil hole of crankshaft journal. Rotate crankshaft clockwise, allowing pin to push upper bearing out of cylinder block.
7. When installing a new upper main bearing, slightly chamfer sharp edges from plain side of new bearing, then start bearing in place. Using pin, install upper bearing in reverse order of removal procedure.

Crankshaft End Play Check

Check crankshaft end play. If not within specification, replace thrust bearing (No. 3 main bearing).

REAR MAIN BEARING OIL SEAL

Rubber-type rear main oil seals may be installed without removing crankshaft. Rubber seals MUST BE installed as pairs only. Do not use rope seals in place of rubber seals.

Crankshaft must be removed to replace upper rope-type seal. In some cases, lower seal may be replaced without removing upper seal or crankshaft.

Removal (Rubber-Type)

Remove oil pan, oil pump and rear main bearing cap. Remove upper seal by pressing on 1 end of seal with small screwdriver and pulling on other end with pliers. Be careful not to damage crankshaft. Remove lower seal from main cap.

1. Wipe crankshaft surface clean. Lightly oil crankshaft oil seal lips. Rotate upper half of seal into block with paint stripe toward rear of engine. DO NOT shave or cut outer surface of seal.
2. Position lower half of seal in bearing cap with paint stripe toward rear of engine. Apply RTV sealer to block mating surfaces of main bearing cap. Assemble bearing cap to block immediately after applying sealer. Install cleaned and oiled main cap bolts. Tighten bolts to specification.

Removal (Rope-Type)

With crankshaft removed from engine, pry old seal from block and main bearing cap with a screwdriver. Clean grooves in block and main bearing cap.

Installation (Crankshaft Removed)

1. Install new upper rear bearing oil seal in block so that both ends of seal protrude from block. Using Seal Installer (C-3511), tap seal into position until installer is seated in bearing bore. Hold installer in this position and cut-off portion of seal that protrudes below block on both sides of installer.
2. Install seal in main bearing cap using same procedure. Cut-off ends of seal that protrude from bearing cap on both sides of installer. Install end seals in slots in main bearing cap.
3. Lightly oil seals with engine oil. Install crankshaft. Install bearing cap to block. Install cleaned and oiled main cap bolts. Tighten main cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (116 N.m).

Installation (Crankshaft Installed)

Lower rope seal may be replaced individually if seal inspection reveals a rotated upper seal. This is evident during inspection by a seal gap at right side main bearing cap and block parting line.

Note. DO NOT remove upper rope seal when performing lower rope seal "in-vehicle" replacement. Leave upper seal half in block and modify new lower seal half.

1. Install new lower rope seal in cap using Seal Installer (C-3511). Cut right bank seal end flush with cap. Remove seal from cap and rotate (end-to-end). Reinstall seal in cap with cut end protruding from cap surface same amount as it is short in block above block/main bearing cap parting line.
2. Tap seal in cap using seal installer. Ensure amount of seal protruding from cap did not change. Cut left bank seal end flush with cap surface. This modification procedure ensures that protruding end of seal is properly formed without frayed end.
3. Lightly oil lower seal half with engine oil. Insert cap side seals into slots in bearing cap. The seal with the Yellow paint goes in right side of cap (with cap in installed position). Install rear bearing cap. Do not crimp extended side of oil seal between cap and block.
4. Install cleaned and oiled main bearing cap bolts and tighten. Reinstall oil pump and oil pan. Apply sealer at bearing cap-to-block joint. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Tighten main bearing cap bolts to specification.

CRANKCASE CAPACITY

Capacity of all engines is 5 quarts (4.7L). Add 1 quart (.95L) when replacing oil filter.

OIL FILTER

Replace at first oil change, and every other oil change thereafter.

NORMAL OIL PRESSURE

Normal oil pressure should be 30-80 psi (2.1-5.6 kg/cm2) at 2000 RPM.

OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE

Oil pressure regulator valve is located in oil pump and is not adjustable.

OILING SYSTEM

System has a rotor-type oil pump and full-flow oil filter. Oil is forced by pump through a series of oil passages in engine to provide lubrication to engine components.

Oil is supplied to hollow rocker arm shaft (left side) from No. 2 camshaft bearing and to hollow rocker arm shaft (right side) from No. 4 camshaft bearing, through indexed holes in camshaft.

Oil flows to 1 support pedestal on each head and into a rocker shaft, to lubricate upper valve train components. Pedestal is second from rear on right head, and second from front on left head. (Scheme 33)

Engine Oiling System. Scheme 33

Remove oil pan. Remove bolts and oil pump from rear main bearing cap. Ensure oil pump and rear main bearing cap machined surfaces are clean and free from burrs.

Disassembly

1. Remove cotter pin, drill a 1/8" (3 mm) hole into relief valve retainer cap and insert a self-tapping sheet metal screw into cap. Clamp screw into vise and while supporting pump, remove cap by tapping pump body using soft hammer.
2. Discard retainer cap and remove spring and relief valve. Remove pump cover and discard oil seal ring. Remove inner rotor and shaft. Lift out outer rotor. (Scheme 34)

Oil Pump Assembly Install outer rotor into pump body with large chamfered edge inward. Scheme 34

1. Clean all parts thoroughly. Replace oil pump assembly if mating surface of pump cover is scratched or grooved. Lay a straightedge across pump cover. Using a feeler gauge, measure cover wear. If measurement is not within specifications, replace pump assembly.
2. Measure thickness of outer and inner rotors. Measure outer rotor diameter. If measurements are not within specifications, replace rotors. Slide outer rotor (chamfered end first) into pump body. Press rotor to one side and measure clearance between rotor and pump body. If measurement is not within specifications, replace pump assembly.
3. With outer rotor installed in pump body, place inner rotor and shaft into pump body. Measure clearance between inner and outer rotors. If clearance is not within specifications, replace rotors.
4. With rotors installed in pump body, place a straightedge (between bolt holes) across pump face. Measure clearance between rotors and straightedge. If clearance is not within specifications, replace pump assembly.
5. Inspect oil pressure relief valve plunger for scoring and free operation in bore. Small marks may be removed with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Check free length of relief valve spring. Compress relief valve spring and check spring pressure. Pressure should be 16.2-17.2 lbs. (7.35-7.80 kg) at 1 11/32" (34.1 mm). Replace spring if it fails to meet specifications.

OIL PUMP SPECIFICATIONS

Reassembly

Assemble pump, using new parts if necessary. Ensure that outer rotor is installed in pump body with large chamfered edge inward. Install oil seal rings between cover and pump body. Tighten oil pump cover bolts to 95 INCH lbs. (11 N.m).

Prime oil pump. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

WATER PUMP

1. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator, if vehicle is equipped with A/C. Remove all drive belts. Remove fan, spacer (or fan clutch), pulley and bolts as an assembly.
2. If vehicle is not equipped with A/C, remove alternator bracket bolts, and position alternator out of way. On A/C models, remove alternator, adjusting bracket and power steering pump. Position components aside.
3. Remove heater and by-pass hoses. Remove A/C compressor pulley and field coil assembly, if equipped. Remove A/C compressor bracket, if equipped. Remove water pump.

Clean all gasket mating surfaces. Install water pump using new gasket. Reverse removal procedure to complete installation.

Note. For further information on cooling systems, refer to the COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS article in the ENGINE COOLING section.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

VALVE SPECIFICATIONS

VALVE SPECIFICATIONS

PISTON/PIN/RING SPECIFICATIONS

PISTONS, PINS & RINGS SPECIFICATIONS

BEARING SPECIFICATIONS

CRANKSHAFT MAIN & CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS SPECS

VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

VALVE SPRINGS SPECIFICATIONS

CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS

CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS

See also:
• ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES - GENERAL INFORMATION
• ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL - V8
• COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS
• VALVE SPRING COLOR CODE