Fastener Tightening Specifications
| Application | Specification | |
|---|---|---|
| Metric | English | |
| A/C Compressor to Block Bolt | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt | 32 N.m | 24 lb ft |
| Balance Shaft Adjustable Chain Guide Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Balance Shaft Bearing Carrier to Block Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Balance Shaft Fixed Chain Guide Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Balance Shaft Sprocket Bolt | 50 N.m | 37 lb ft |
| Baro Sensor and Coolant Return Line Assembly | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Boost Solenoid Bracket Nut | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Cam Cover to Cylinder Head Bolt | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Cam Cover to Ground Cable Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Cam Cover to Ground Cable Stud | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Cam Sensor Bolt | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Stud | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Camshaft Sprocket Bolt | ||
| First Pass | 85 N.m | 63 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 30 degrees | |
| Camshaft Timing Chain Tensioner | 75 N.m | 55 lb ft |
| Chain Guide Access Hole Plug | 90 N.m | 59 lb ft |
| Connecting Rod Bolts | ||
| First Pass | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 100 degrees | |
| Crankshaft Bearing Lower Crankcase to Block Bolts | ||
| First Pass | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 70 degrees | |
| Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Crankshaft Position Sensor Housing Studs | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Crankshaft Pulley Bolt | ||
| First Pass | 100 N.m | 74 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 75 degrees | |
| Cylinder Head Bolt | ||
| First Pass | 30 N.m | 22 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 155 degrees | |
| Cylinder Head Front Chaincase Bolt | 35 N.m | 26 lb ft |
| Cylinder Head Oil Gallery Plug | 35 N.m | 26 lb ft |
| Dipstick Guide to Intake Manifold Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Elek. ICM Cover Bolt | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Engine Lift Bracket Front Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Engine Lift Bracket Rear Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Engine Mount Intermediate Bracket Bolts | 100 N.m | 74 lb ft |
| Engine Mount to Intermediate Bracket Bolts | 50 N.m | 37 lb ft |
| Engine Mount to Mid-Rail Nuts | 100 N.m | 74 lb ft |
| Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut | 12 N.m | 106 lb in |
| Exhaust Manifold to Cylinder Head Stud | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Exhaust Manifold Pipe Flange Stud | 16 N.m | 12 lb ft |
| Exhaust Takedown Pipe Nuts | 30 N.m | 22 lb ft |
| Flywheel (SMT) Bolt | ||
| First Pass | 53 N.m | 39 lb ft |
| Final Pass | 25 degrees | |
| Frame Bolts | ||
| First Pass | 100 N.m | 74 lb ft |
| Second Pass | 180 degrees | |
| Front Cover to Block Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Front Lift Bracket Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Fuel Feed Line | 14 N.m | 124 lb in |
| Fuel Feed Line and Injector Harness Bracket | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Fuel Line Bracket Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Fuel Pipe Bracket Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Fuel Rail Bracket Stud | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Generator Bracket Bolt | 42 N.m | 31 lb ft |
| Generator Connector Nut | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Generator to Block Bolt | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Heat Shield to Exhaust Manifold Bolt | 23 N.m | 17 lb ft |
| Idler Pulley | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Ignition Coil Bolt | 8 N.m | 71 lb in |
| Intake Camshaft Rear Cap Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Stud | 6 N.m | 53 lb in |
| Knock Sensor Bolt | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Lower Crankcase to Block Peripheral Bolts | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Oil Bypass Tube | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Oil Cooler | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Oil Filter Housing Cover | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Oil Gallery Plug | 35 N.m | 26 lb ft |
| Oil Gallery Plug - Rear | 60 N.m | 44 lb ft |
| Oil Level Indicator Tube Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Oil Pan Drain Plug | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Oil Pan to Block Bolts | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Oil Pressure Sensor | 18 N.m | 13 lb ft |
| Oil Pump Gerotor Cover Bolt | 6 N.m | 53 lb in |
| Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Plug | 40 N.m | 30 lb ft |
| Oxygen Sensor | 42 N.m | 31 lb ft |
| Power Steering Pump Blockout Plate Bolts | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Rear Lift Bracket Bolt | 22 N.m | 16 lb ft |
| Spark Plug | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Starter Motor to Block Bolt | 40 N.m | 30 lb ft |
| Starter Terminal Nut | 17 N.m | 13 lb ft |
| Supercharger Bolts | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Thermostat Housing to Block Bolts | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Throttle Body Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Timing Chain Adjustable Guide Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Timing Chain Fixed Guide Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Timing Chain Oil Nozzle Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Timing Chain Upper Guide Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Torque Converter Bolts | 62 N.m | 46 lb ft |
| Transmission to Engine Bolts | 75 N.m | 55 lb ft |
| Vent Tube to Cylinder Head | 15 N.m | 11 lb ft |
| Water Pipe Support Bracket Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Water Pump Access Cover Bolt | 7 N.m | 62 lb in |
| Water Pump/Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
| Water Pump Bolts | 25 N.m | 18 lb ft |
| Water Pump Drain Plug | 20 N.m | 15 lb ft |
| Water Pump Sprocket Bolt | 10 N.m | 89 lb in |
Fastener Tightening Specifications
Engine Mechanical Specifications
| Application | Specification | |
|---|---|---|
| Metric | English | |
| General Data | ||
| Engine Type | Inline 4 Cylinder | |
| Displacement | 2.0 L | 122 CID |
| RPO | LSJ | |
| Liter (VIN) | P | |
| Bore | 85.992-86.008 mm | 3.3855-3.3861 in |
| Compression Ratio | 9.5:1 | |
| Balance Shaft | ||
| Bearing Clearance | 0.030-0.063 mm | 0.0012-0.0025 in |
| Bearing Diameter - Inside - Carrier | 20.050-20.063 mm | 0.7894-0.7899 in |
| Bearing Diameter - Outside - Carrier | 41.975-41.995 mm | 1.6526-1.6534 in |
| Bearing Journal Diameter | 20.000-20.020 mm | 0.7874-0.7882 in |
| Bushing Clearance | 0.033-0.102 mm | 0.0013-0.0040 in |
| Bushing Diameter - Inside | 36.776-36.825 mm | 1.4479-1.4498 in |
| Bushing Journal Diameter | 36.723-36.743 mm | 1.4458-1.4466 in |
| End Play | 0.100-0.300 mm | 0.0020-0.0118 in |
| Block | ||
| Balance Shaft Bearing Bore Diameter - Carrier | 42.000-42.016 mm | 1.6535-1.6542 in |
| Balance Shaft Bushing Bore Diameter | 40.763-40.776 mm | 1.6048-1.6054 in |
| Crankshaft Main Bearing Bore Diameter | 64.068-64.082 mm | 2.5224-2.5229 in |
| Cylinder Bore Diameter | 85.992-86.008 mm | 3.3855-3.3861 in |
| Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round - Maximum | 0.010 mm | 0.0004 in |
| Cylinder Bore Taper - Maximum | 0.010 mm | 0.0004 in |
| Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Transverse | 0.030 mm | 0.0012 in |
| Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Longitude | 0.050 mm | 0.002 in |
| Cylinder Head Deck Surface Flatness - Overall | 0.08 mm | 0.0031 in |
| Camshaft | ||
| Camshaft End Play | 0.040-0.144 mm | 0.0016-0.0057 in |
| Camshaft Journal Diameter | 26.935-26.960 mm | 1.0604-1.0614 in |
| Camshaft Thrust Surface | 21.000-21.052 mm | 0.8268-0.8252 in |
| Connecting Rod | ||
| Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance | 0.029-0.069 mm | 0.0011-0.0027 in |
| Connecting Rod Bore Diameter - Bearing End | 52.118-52.134 mm | 2.0519-2.05252 in |
| Connecting Rod Bore Diameter - Pin End | 20.007-20.021 mm | 0.7877-0.7882 in |
| Connecting Rod Side Clearance | 0.070-0.370 mm | 0.0028-0.0146 in |
| Connecting Rod Straightness - Bend - Maximum | 0.021 mm | 0.0083 in |
| Connecting Rod Straightness - Twist - Maximum | 0.04 mm | 0.0157 in |
| Crankshaft | ||
| Connecting Rod Journal Diameter | 49.000-49.014 mm | 1.9291-1.9297 in |
| Crankshaft End Play | 0.050-0.380 mm | 0.0012-0.0150 in |
| Crankshaft Main Bearing Clearance | 0.031-0.067 mm | 0.0012-0.0026 in |
| Crankshaft Main Journal Diameter | 55.994-56.008 mm | 2.2045-2.2050 in |
| Cylinder Head | ||
| Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Transverse | 0.030 mm | 0.0012 in |
| Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Longitude | 0.050 mm | 0.002 in |
| Surface Flatness - Block Deck - Overall | 0.1 mm | 0.004 in |
| Valve Guide Bore - Exhaust | 6.000-6.012 mm | 0.2362-0.2367 in |
| Valve Guide Bore - Intake | 6.000-6.012 mm | 0.2362-0.2367 in |
| Valve Lifter Bore Diameter - Stationary Lash Adjusters | 12.013-12.037 mm | 0.4730-0.4739 in |
| Lubrication System | ||
| Oil Pressure - Minimum - @1000 RPM | 344.75-551.60 kPa | 50-80 psi |
| Oil Capacity - with or without Filter | 5.7L | 6.0 quarts |
| Piston Rings | ||
| Piston Ring End Gap - First Compression Ring | 0.20-0.40 mm | 0.008-0.016 in |
| Piston Ring End Gap - Second Compression Ring | 0.35-0.55 mm | 0.014-0.022 in |
| Piston Ring End Gap - Oil Control Ring - Rails | 0.25-0.76 mm | 0.010-0.030 in |
| Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - First Compression Ring | 0.04-0.08 mm | 0.0015-0.0031 in |
| Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - Second Compression Ring | 0.030-0.069 mm | 0.0012-0.0027 in |
| Piston Ring to Groove Clearance - Oil Control Ring | 0.090-0.106 mm | 0.0035-0.0042 in |
| Piston Ring Thickness - First Compression Ring | 1.170-1.190 mm | 0.0461-0.0469 in |
| Piston Ring Thickness - Second Compression Ring | 1.471-1.490 mm | 0.0579-0.0587 in |
| Piston Ring Thickness - Oil Control Ring - Rail - Maximum | 0.43 mm | 0.0169 in |
| Piston Ring Thickness - Oil Control Ring - Spacer | 1.574-1.651 mm | 0.0620-0.0650 in |
| Pistons and Pins | ||
| Piston - Piston Diameter - @14.5 mm up | 85.967-85.982 mm | 3.3845-3.3851 in |
| Piston - Piston Pin Bore Diameter | 20.002-20.007 mm | 0.07875-0.7877 in |
| Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Top | 1.23-1.25 mm | 0.0484-0.0492 in |
| Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Second | 1.52-1.54 mm | 0.0598-0.0606 in |
| Piston - Piston Ring Grove Width - Oil Control | 2.52-2.54 mm | 0.0992-0.1000 in |
| Piston - Piston To Bore Clearance | 0.010-0.041 mm | 0.0004-0.0016 in |
| Pin - Piston Pin Clearance to Connecting Rod Bore | 0.007-0.026 mm | 0.0003-0.0010 in |
| Pin - Piston Pin Clearance to Piston Pin Bore | 0.002-0.012 mm | 0.0001-0.0005 in |
| Pin - Piston Pin Diameter | 19.995-20.000 mm | 0.7872-0.7874 in |
| Pin - Piston Pin End Play | 0.19-1.16 mm | 0.0075-0.0461 in |
| Valve System | ||
| Valves - Valve Face Runout - Maximum | 0.04 mm | 0.0016 in |
| Valves - Valve Seat Runout - Maximum | 0.05 mm | 0.0020 in |
| Valves - Valve Stem Diameter - Intake | 5.955-5.970 mm | 0.2344-0.2355 in |
| Valves - Valve Stem Diameter - Exhaust | 5.935-5.950 mm | 0.2337-0.2343 in |
| Valves - Valve Stem to Guide Clearance - Intake | 0.030-0.057 mm | 0.0012-0.0022 in |
| Valves - Valve Stem to Guide Clearance - Exhaust | 0.050-0.077 mm | 0.0020-0.0026 in |
| Valve Lifters - Valve Lifter Diameter - Stationary Lash Adjuster | 11.986-12.000 mm | 0.0005-0.0020 in |
| Valve Lifters - Valve Lifter-to-Bore Clearance - Stationary Lash Adjuster | 0.013-0.051 mm | 3.2210-3.2299 in |
| Valve Springs - Valve Spring Load - Closed - @32.5 mm | 245.0-271.0 N. - Eng Spec. | |
| Valve Springs - Valve Spring Load - Open - @32.5 mm | 525.0-575.0 N. - Eng Spec. | |
Engine Mechanical Specifications
Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants
| Application | Type of Material | Part Number |
|---|---|---|
| # 6 Intake Rear Camshaft Cap | Sealant | Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker 51813 |
| Cam Lobes | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Crank Sensor O-ring | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Cylinder Head Plugs | Threadlocker | 21485277 |
| Dipstick Tube O-rings | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Engine Block Threaded Plugs | Sealant | 21485278 |
| Engine Block To Bed Plate | Sealant | 21019581 |
| Engine Oil | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Engine Oil Level Indicator Tube O-ring | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Fuel Injector O-rings | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Fuel Injector Tip Insulators | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Intake and Exhaust Valve Stems | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Oil Filter Cap (Threads and O-ring Lead-in Chamfers) | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Oil Pan to Bedplate Joint | Sealant | 21019581 |
| Oil Pump (Pump Elements) | Engine Oil | 5 W 30 or equivalent |
| Oxygen Sensor Threads | Antiseize | 12397953 |
| Stationary Hydraulic Lash Adjusters | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Timing Chain Guide Bolt Access Hole Plug | Threadlocker | 21485277 |
| Valve Rocker Arm / Valve Tip | Lubricant | Engine Oil Supplement |
| Water Feed Tube O-rings | Lubricant | Antifreeze |
| Water Pump Drain Plug | Sealant | 21485278 |
Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants
Scheme 61
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 23.5 | 0.93 | 18.5 | 0.73 |
| 2 | M12 x 1.75 | 855 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 33.5 | 1.32 | 26.5 | 1.04 |
| 3 | M10 x 1.5 | 215 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 24.5 | 0.96 | 19.5 | 0.77 |
| 4 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20 | 0.787 | 16 | 0.63 |
Engine Block - Front View
Scheme 62
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 18 | 0.709 | THRU | |
| 2 | M10 x 1.5 | 215 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 29 | 1.161 | THRU | |
| 3 | M12 x 1.75 | 855 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 39 | 1.535 | 33.5 | 1.32 |
| 4 | M16 x 1.5 | 860 | 861 | 862 | 863 | 864 | 21 | 0.827 | 15 | 0.59 |
Engine Block - Back View
Scheme 63
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20.5 | 0.807 | 16 | 0.63 |
| 2 | M10 x 1.5 | 215 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 23.5 | 0.925 | 18.5 | 0.73 |
| 3 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 19.5 | 0.768 | 12.5 | 0.49 |
Engine Block - Left Side View
Scheme 64
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 28 | 1.102 | 22 | 0.87 |
| 2 | M10 x 1.5 | 514 | 511 | N/A | 512 | 513 | 60 | 2.362 | 53.5 | 2.11 |
Engine Block - Bottom View
Scheme 65
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20.5 | 0.807 | 16.5 | 0.65 |
| 2 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 23.5 | 0.925 | 18 | 0.71 |
| 3 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 30.5 | 1.201 | 22.5 | 0.89 |
| 4 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 15.5 | 0.61 | 12.5 | 0.49 |
| 5 | M12 x 1.75 | 855 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 33.5 | 1.319 | 26.5 | 1.04 |
| 6 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 19.5 | 0.778 | 12.5 | 0.49 |
Engine Block - Right Side View
Scheme 66
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 23.5 | 0.925 | 18.5 | 0.73 |
| 2 | M11 x 1.5 | 507 | 504 | N/A | 505 | 506 | 113.3 | 4.461 | 107.3 | 4.22 |
| 3 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 13.5 | 0.531 | 12.5 | 0.49 |
Engine Block - Top View
Scheme 67
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 23.5 | 0.925 | 18.5 | 0.73 |
| 2 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 30.5 | 1.201 | 25.5 | 1.00 |
Lower Crankcase - Front View
Scheme 68
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M10 x 1.5 | 215 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 29.5 | 1.161 | THRU | |
Lower Crankcase - Back View
Scheme 69
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 23.5 | 0.925 | 18.5 | 0.73 |
Lower Crankcase - Bottom View
Scheme 70
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M10 x 1.5 | 215 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 28.5 | 1.122 | 22.5 | 0.89 |
Lower Crankcase - Left View
Scheme 71
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 30.5 | 1.201 | 22.5 | 0.886 |
Lower Crankcase - Right View
Scheme 72
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 852 | N/A | 203 | 204 | 24 | 0.945 | 20 | 0.787 |
| 2 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20 | 0.787 | 16 | 0.63 |
| 3 | M8 x 1.25 | 854 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | THRU | THRU | ||
| 4 | M8 x 1.25 | 854 | 853 | N/A | 208 | 209 | 25 | 0.984 | 20 | 0.787 |
| 5 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 25 | 0.984 | 20 | 0.787 |
Cylinder Head - Top View
Scheme 73
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20 | 0.787 | 16 | 0.63 |
Cylinder Head - Intake Manifold Deck View
Scheme 74
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20 | 0.78 | 16 | 0.63 |
| 2 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 25 | 0.984 | 20 | 0.78 |
Cylinder Head - Exhaust Manifold Deck View
Scheme 75
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M6 x 1 | 205 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 20 | 0.787 | 16 | 0.63 |
| 2 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 25 | 0.984 | 20 | 0.787 |
Cylinder Head - Front View
Scheme 76
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M8 x 1.25 | 210 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 25 | 0.984 | 20 | 0.787 |
| 2 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 17 | 0.67 | 14 | 0.551 |
Cylinder Head - Back View
Scheme 77
| Service Call Out | Thread Size | Insert | Drill | Counterbore Tool | Tap | Driver | Drill Depth (Maximum) | Tap Depth (Maximum) | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| J 42385-850 | MM | (IN) | MM | (IN) | ||||||
| 1 | M12 x 1.75 | 865 | 856 | 857 | 858 | 859 | 17 | 0.67 | 14 | 0.551 |
Cylinder Head - Bottom View
Scheme 78
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 201 | Exhaust Valve |
| 202 | Intake Valve |
| 203 | Timing Chain Guide Bolt Access Hole |
| 204 | Cylinder Head |
| 205 | Cylinder Head Gallery Plug |
| 206 | Hydraulic Lash Adjuster |
| 207 | Roller Finger Follower |
| 208 | Cylinder Head Bolt |
| 209 | Small Cylinder Head Bolt |
| 210 | Valve Stem Seal |
| 210 | Valve Stem Seal |
| 211 | Valve Spring |
| 211 | Valve Spring |
| 212 | Valve Spring Retainer |
| 212 | Valve Spring Retainer |
| 213 | Valve Keys |
| 214 | Hydraulic Lash Adjuster |
| 215 | Roller Finger Follower |
| 216 | Intake Camshaft |
| 217 | Camshaft Rear Cap |
| 218 | Camshaft Rear Cap Bolt |
| 219 | Camshaft Cap |
| 220 | Exhaust Camshaft |
| 221 | Camshaft Cap |
| 222 | Camshaft Cap Bolt |
| 251 | Camshaft Rear Cap |
| 252 | Camshaft Rear Cap Bolt |
| 329 | Coolant Return Line |
| 330 | Coolant Return Line Bolt |
| 331 | Coolant Return Line Bolt |
| 413 | Engine Oil Fill Cap |
| 507 | Fuel Injector Rotator Cup |
| 508 | Fuel Injector O-ring |
| 509 | Fuel Injector |
| 510 | Fuel Injector O-ring |
| 511 | Fuel Injector Clip |
| 512 | Fuel Rail |
| 513 | Camshaft Cover Gasket |
| 514 | Camshaft Cover |
| 515 | Camshaft Cover Bolt |
| 516 | Intake Manifold Stud |
| 517 | Intake Manifold Stud |
| 530 | Coil Cover |
| 531 | Coil Cover Bolt |
| 706 | Coolant Temperature Sensor |
| 709 | Rear Lift Bracket |
| 710 | Rear Lift Bracket Bolt |
| 713 | Fuel Injector Wiring Harness |
| 714 | Power Steering Blockout Plate |
| 716 | Power Steering Blockout Plate Bolt/Stud |
| 717 | Spark Plug |
| 718 | Ground Strap Bolt |
| 719 | Ground Strap |
| 720 | Ground Strap Bolt Stud |
| 729 | Baro Sensor |
| 730 | Baro Sensor Bolt |
| 731 | Camshaft Position Sensor |
| 732 | Camshaft Position Sensor Bolt |
| 733 | Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Gasket |
| 734 | Camshaft Position Sensor Housing |
| 735 | Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Bolt/Stud |
| 736 | Fuel Injector Harness Bracket Bolt |
| 737 | Fuel Injector Harness Bracket |
| 738 | Coil |
| 739 | Coil Bolt |
| 744 | Boost Solenoid Hose |
| 745 | Boost Solenoid Hose |
| 746 | Boost Solenoid |
| 747 | Boost Solenoid Bracket |
| 748 | Boost Solenoid Bracket Nut |
Scheme 79
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 408 | Oil Indicator Tube O-ring |
| 409 | Oil Indicator Tube |
| 410 | Oil Indicator Tube Bolt |
| 411 | Oil Indicator O-ring |
| 412 | Oil Indicator |
| 500 | Intake Manifold Gasket |
| 502 | Intake Manifold |
| 503 | Throttle Body Seal |
| 504 | Throttle Body |
| 506 | Throttle Body Bolt |
| 518 | Intercooler O-ring |
| 519 | Intercooler Washer |
| 520 | Intercooler Washer |
| 521 | Intercooler O-ring |
| 522 | Intercooler Cover Gasket |
| 523 | Intercooler |
| 524 | Intercooler Cover |
| 525 | Intercooler Cover Bolt |
| 526 | Intercooler Cover Seal |
| 527 | Supercharger Gasket |
| 528 | Supercharger |
| 529 | Supercharger Bolt |
| 711 | Map Sensor |
| 726 | Supercharger Inlet Pressure Sensor |
| 727 | Map Sensor Bracket |
| 728 | Map Sensor Bracket Bolt |
| 749 | Map Sensor Bolt |
Scheme 80
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 600 | Exhaust Manifold Stud |
| 601 | Exhaust Manifold Gasket |
| 602 | Exhaust Manifold |
| 603 | Exhaust Manifold Nut |
| 604 | Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield |
| 605 | Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Nut |
| 712 | Oxygen Sensor |
Scheme 81
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 100 | Engine Block |
| 101 | Crankshaft Bearing - Upper |
| 102 | Crankshaft Thrust Bearing - Upper |
| 103 | Crankshaft |
| 104 | Crankshaft Bearing - Lower |
| 105 | Crankshaft Thrust Bearing - Lower |
| 106 | Lower Crankcase |
| 107 | Lower Crankcase Perimeter Bolt |
| 108 | Lower Crankcase Main Bearing Bolt |
| 109 | Crankshaft Rear Seal |
| 112 | Manual Transaxle Flywheel |
| 113 | Manual Transaxle Flywheel Bolt |
| 114 | Engine Block to Transaxle Alignment Pin |
| 115 | Engine Block Gallery Plug |
| 116 | Cylinder Head Alignment Pin |
| 117 | Cylinder Bore Sleeve |
| 118 | Connecting Rod Cap Bolt |
| 119 | Connecting Rod |
| 120 | Connecting Rod Bearing |
| 121 | Piston Assembly |
| 122 | Piston Ring Assembly |
| 200 | Cylinder Head Gasket |
| 301 | Thermostat Housing |
| 302 | Thermostat Housing to Block Gasket |
| 306 | Thermostat Gasket |
| 307 | Thermostat |
| 308 | Thermostat Housing Cap |
| 309 | Thermostat Housing Cap Bolt |
| 310 | Water Transfer Pipe |
| 311 | Water Transfer Pipe O-ring Seals |
| 312 | Water Pump |
| 313 | Water Pump to Engine Block Seal |
| 320 | Oil Cooler Line |
| 321 | Oil Cooler Line |
| 322 | Thermostat Housing Plug O-ring |
| 323 | Thermostat Housing Plug |
| 324 | Thermostat Housing Plug O-ring |
| 325 | Thermostat Housing Plug |
| 326 | Thermostat Housing Plug Bolt |
| 327 | Thermostat Housing Short Bolt |
| 328 | Thermostat Housing Long Bolt |
| 329 | Oil Cooler Line Clamps |
| 400 | Engine Oil Pan |
| 401 | Engine Oil Pan Alignment Pins |
| 402 | Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug |
| 403 | Engine Oil Pan Bolt |
| 404 | Engine Oil Pan Long Bolt |
| 405 | Oil Filter |
| 406 | Oil Filter Cap O-ring |
| 407 | Oil Filter Cap |
| 428 | Oil Pressure Sensor Fitting |
| 429 | Oil Pressure Sensor Fitting O-ring |
| 430 | Oil Pressure Sensor Plunger |
| 431 | Oil Bypass Tube O-ring |
| 433 | Oil Pressure Sensor O-ring |
| 434 | Oil Bypass Tube Plug |
| 435 | Oil Bypass Tube Bolt |
| 436 | Oil Cooler O-ring |
| 437 | Oil Bypass Tube Plug |
| 438 | Oil Bypass Tube Plug O-ring |
| 439 | Oil Bypass Tube Plunger |
| 440 | Oil Bypass Tube Spring |
| 441 | Oil Bypass Tube |
| 442 | Oil Cooler O-ring |
| 443 | Oil Cooler O-ring |
| 444 | Oil Cooler Bolt |
| 445 | Oil Cooler |
| 446 | Oil Cooler O-ring |
| 700 | Oil Pressure Switch |
| 701 | Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolt |
| 702 | Crankshaft Position Sensor |
| 703 | Knock Sensor |
Scheme 82
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 123 | Balance Shaft Rear Bearing |
| 124 | Exhaust Balance Shaft |
| 125 | Intake Balance Shaft |
| 126 | Exhaust Balance Shaft Bearing Carrier |
| 127 | Intake Balance Shaft Bearing Carrier |
| 128 | Exhaust Balance Shaft Drive Sprocket |
| 129 | Intake Balance Shaft Drive Sprocket |
| 130 | Balance Shaft Drive Sprocket Bolts |
| 223 | Upper Timing Chain Guide Bolt |
| 224 | Upper Timing Chain Guide |
| 225 | Exhaust Camshaft Sprocket |
| 226 | Intake Camshaft Sprocket |
| 227 | Camshaft Sprocket to Camshaft Bolt |
| 228 | Timing Chain Oil Nozzle |
| 229 | Timing Chain Oil Nozzle Bolt |
| 230 | Timing Chain Drive Sprocket |
| 231 | Fixed Timing Chain Guide |
| 232 | Fixed Timing Chain Guide Bolt |
| 233 | Timing Chain |
| 234 | Timing Chain Tensioner Washer |
| 235 | Timing Chain Tensioner Body |
| 236 | Timing Chain Tensioner O-ring Seal |
| 237 | Timing Chain Tensioner Plunger |
| 238 | Adjustable Timing Chain Guide |
| 239 | Adjustable Timing Chain Guide Bolt |
| 240 | Balance Shaft Drive Sprocket |
| 241 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Guide |
| 242 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Guide Bolt |
| 243 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Guide |
| 244 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Guide Bolt |
| 245 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain |
| 246 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Tensioner Assembly |
| 247 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Tensioner Assembly Bolt |
| 248 | Balance Shaft Drive Chain Tensioner Assembly Bolt |
| 249 | Adjustable Balance Shaft Drive Chain Guide |
| 314 | Water Pump Drive Sprocket |
| 315 | Water Pump Drive Sprocket Bolt |
| 316 | Water Pump Bolt |
| 317 | Engine Front Cover Access Plate Gasket |
| 318 | Engine Front Cover Access Plate |
| 319 | Engine Front Cover Access Plate Bolt |
| 414 | Engine Front Cover Alignment Pins |
| 415 | Engine Front Cover Gasket |
| 416 | Oil Pump Cover Bolt |
| 417 | Oil Pump Cover |
| 418 | Oil Pump Outer Gerotor |
| 419 | Oil Pump Inner Gerotor |
| 420 | Engine Front Cover |
| 421 | Engine Front Cover Bolt |
| 422 | Oil Pressure Relief Valve Spring |
| 423 | Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plunger |
| 424 | Oil Pressure Relief Valve O-ring Seal |
| 425 | Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug |
| 426 | Crankshaft Front Seal |
| 427 | Crankshaft Dampener |
| 428 | Crankshaft Dampener Bolt |
| 704 | Belt Tensioner |
| 705 | Belt Tensioner Bolt |
| 707 | Front Lift Bracket Bolt |
| 708 | Front Lift Bracket |
| 740 | Generator Bracket |
| 741 | Belt Tensioner Bolt |
| 742 | Belt Tensioner |
| 743 | Generator Bracket Bolt |
Scheme 83
Identification can be made through the use of the Broadcast Code label on the engine front cover (1) and the use of the partial VIN etched on the oil filter bowl (2).
- Barcode (1)
- Sequence Number (2)
- Day (3)
- Month (4)
- Year (5)
- Engine Assembly Plant (6)
- Broadcast Code (7)
- Part Designation (8)
- Engine Assembly Number (9)
- Broadcast Code (10)
The partial VIN identifies the specific vehicle by sequence number.
Diagnostic Starting Point - Engine Mechanical
Begin the system diagnosis by reviewing the Disassembled Views , Engine Component Description , Lubrication Description , and New Product Information in Engine Unit Repair. Reviewing the description and operation information will help you determine the correct symptom diagnostic procedure when a malfunction exists. Reviewing the description and operation information will also help you determine if the condition described by the customer is normal operation. Refer to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical in order to identify the correct procedure for diagnosing the system and where the procedure is located.
Strategy Based Diagnostics
- Perform the «Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/oem-general-information/#vehicle-dtc-information) in Vehicle DTC Information before using the symptom tables, if applicable.
- Review the system operations in order to familiarize yourself with the system functions. Refer to «Disassembled Views»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61) , «Engine Component Description»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) , and «Lubrication Description»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
All diagnosis on a vehicle should follow a logical process. Strategy based diagnostics is a uniform approach for repairing all systems. The diagnostic flow may always be used in order to resolve a system condition. The diagnostic flow is the place to start when repairs are necessary.
Visual/Physical Inspection
- Inspect for aftermarket devices which could affect the operation of the engine.
- Inspect the easily accessible or visible system components for obvious damage or conditions which could cause the symptom.
- Check for the correct oil level, proper oil viscosity, and correct filter application.
- Verify the exact operating conditions under which the concern exists. Note factors such as engine RPM, ambient temperature, engine temperature, amount of engine warm-up time, and other specifics.
- Compare the engine sounds, if applicable, to a known good engine and make sure you are not trying to correct a normal condition.
Intermittent
Test the vehicle under the same conditions that the customer reported in order to verify the system is operating properly.
Symptom List
Refer to a symptom diagnostic procedure from the following list in order to diagnose the symptom
- «Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__base-engine-misfire-without-internal-engine)
- «Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__base-engine-misfire-with-abnormal-internal)
- «Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__base-engine-misfire-with-abnormal-valve)
- «Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__base-engine-misfire-with-coolant-consumption)
- «Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__base-engine-misfire-with-excessive-oil)
- «Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-noise-on-start-up-but-only)
- «Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__upper-engine-noise-regardless-of-engine)
- «Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__lower-engine-noise-regardless-of-engine)
- «Engine Noise Under Load»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-noise-under-load)
- «Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-will-not-crank-crankshaft)
- «Engine Compression Test»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-compression-test)
- «Oil Consumption Diagnosis»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__oil-consumption-diagnosis)
- «Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__oil-pressure-diagnosis-and-testing)
- «Oil Leak Diagnosis»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__oil-leak-diagnosis)
Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Abnormalities, severe cracking, bumps, or missing areas in the accessory drive belt Abnormalities in the accessory drive system and/or components may cause engine RPM variations and lead to a misfire DTC. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Replace the drive belt. |
| Worn, damaged, or mis-aligned accessory drive components or excessive pulley runout may lead to a misfire DTC. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Inspect the components, and repair or replace as required. |
| A loose or improperly installed engine flywheel or crankshaft balancer A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Repair or replace the flywheel and/or balancer as required. |
| Restricted exhaust system A severe restriction in the exhaust flow can cause significant loss of engine performance and may set a DTC. Possible causes of restrictions include collapsed or dented pipes or plugged mufflers and/or catalytic converters. | Repair or replace as required. |
| Improperly installed or damaged vacuum hoses | Repair or replace as required. |
| Improper sealing between the intake manifold and cylinder heads or throttle body. | Replace the intake manifold, gaskets, cylinder heads, and/or throttle body as required. |
| Improperly installed or damaged MAP sensor The sealing grommet of the MAP sensor should not be torn or damaged. | Repair or replace the MAP sensor as required. |
| Damage to the MAP sensor housing | Replace the intake manifold. |
| Worn or loose rocker arms The rocker arm bearing end caps and/or needle bearings should be intact and in the proper position. | Replace the valve rocker arms as required. |
| Stuck valves Carbon buildup on the valve stem can cause the valve not to close properly. | Repair or replace as required. |
| Excessively worn or mis-aligned timing chain | Replace the timing chain and sprockets as required. |
| Worn camshaft lobes | Replace the camshaft and valve lifters. |
| Excessive oil pressure A lubrication system with excessive oil pressure may lead to excessive valve lifter pump up and loss of compression. | Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing . Repair or replace the oil pump as required. |
| Faulty cylinder head gaskets and/or cracking or other damage to the cylinder heads and engine block cooling system passages Coolant consumption may or may not cause the engine to overheat. | Inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant. Inspect the cylinder heads, engine block, and/or head gaskets. Repair or replace as required. |
| Worn piston rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire. | Inspect the spark plugs for oil deposits. Inspect the cylinders for a loss of compression. Refer to Engine Compression Test . Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to identify the cause. Repair or replace as required. |
| A damaged crankshaft reluctor wheel A damaged crankshaft reluctor wheel can result in different symptoms depending on the severity and location of the damage. Systems with electronic communications, DIS or coil per cylinder, and severe reluctor ring damage may exhibit periodic loss of crankshaft position, stop delivering a signal, and then re-sync the crankshaft position. Systems with electronic communication, DIS or coil per cylinder, and slight reluctor ring damage may exhibit no loss of crankshaft position and no misfire may occur. However, a P0300 DTC may be set. Systems with mechanical communications, high voltage switch, and severe reluctor ring damage may cause additional pulses and effect fuel and spark delivery to the point of generating a P0300 DTC or P0336. | Replace the sensor and/or crankshaft as required. |
Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises
Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Abnormalities, severe cracking, bumps or missing areas in the accessory drive belt Abnormalities in the accessory drive system and/or components may cause engine RPM variations, noises similar to a faulty lower engine, and also lead to a misfire condition. A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Replace the drive belt. |
| Worn, damaged, or mis-aligned accessory drive components or excessive pulley runout A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Inspect the components, repair or replace as required. |
| Loose or improperly installed engine flywheel or crankshaft balancer A misfire code may be present without an actual misfire condition. | Repair or replace the flywheel and/or balancer as required. |
| Worn piston rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire. | Inspect the spark plugs for oil deposits. Inspect the cylinders for a loss of compression. Refer to Engine Compression Test . Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to determine the cause. Repair or replace as required. |
| Worn crankshaft thrust bearings Severely worn thrust surfaces on the crankshaft and/or thrust bearing may permit fore and aft movement of the crankshaft, and create a DTC without an actual misfire condition. | Replace the crankshaft and bearings as required. |
Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises
Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Worn or loose rocker arms The rocker arm bearing end caps and/or needle bearings should intact within the rocker arm assembly. | Replace the valve rocker arms as required. |
| Stuck valves Carbon buildup on the valve stem can cause the valve to not close properly. | Repair or replace as required. |
| Excessively worn or mis-aligned timing chain | Replace the timing chain and sprockets as required. |
| Worn camshaft lobes | Replace the camshaft and valve lifters. |
| Sticking lifters | Replace as required. |
Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise
Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Faulty cylinder head gaskets and/or cracking, or other damage to the cylinder heads and engine block cooling system passages. Coolant consumption may or may not cause the engine to overheat. | Inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant. Perform a cylinder leak down test. Inspect the cylinder heads and engine block for damage to the coolant passages and/or a faulty head gasket. Repair or replace as required. |
Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption
Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Worn valves, valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals | Inspect the spark plugs for oil deposits. Repair or replace as required. |
| Worn piston rings Oil consumption may or may not cause the engine to misfire. | Inspect the spark plugs for oil deposits. Inspect the cylinders for a loss of compression. Refer to Engine Compression Test . Perform cylinder leak down and compression testing to determine the cause. Repair or replace as required. |
Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption
Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| IMPORTANT: A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A light rattle/tapping noise may indicate a valve train, upper engine concern, or a low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. | |
| Incorrect oil filter without anti-drainback feature | Install the correct oil filter. |
| Incorrect oil viscosity | Drain the oil. Install the correct viscosity oil. |
| High valve lifter leak down rate | Replace the lifters as required. |
| Worn crankshaft thrust bearing | Inspect the thrust bearing and crankshaft. Repair or replace as required. |
| Damaged or faulty oil filter by-pass valve | Inspect the oil filter by-pass valve for proper operation. Repair or replace as required. |
| IMPORTANT |
|---|
| A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A light rattle/tapping noise may indicate a valve train, upper engine concern, or a low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. |
Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds
Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| IMPORTANT: A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A light rattle/tapping noise may indicate a valve train, upper engine concern. | |
| Low oil pressure | Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing . Repair or replace as required. |
| Loose and/or worn valve rocker arm attachments | Inspect the valve rocker arm stud, nut or bolt. Repair or replace as required. |
| Worn valve rocker arm | Replace the valve rocker arm. |
| Improper lubrication to the valve rocker arms | Inspect the following components, and repair or replace as required: The valve rocker arm The valve lifter The oil filter bypass valve The oil pump and pump screen The engine block oil galleries |
| Broken valve spring | Replace the valve spring. |
| Worn or dirty valve lifters | Replace the valve lifters. |
| Stretched or broken timing chain and/or damaged sprocket teeth | Replace the timing chain and sprockets. |
| Worn, damaged, or faulty timing chain tensioners | Replace tensioners |
| Worn engine camshaft lobes | Inspect the engine camshaft lobes. Replace the camshaft and valve lifters as required. |
| Worn valve guides or valve stems | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The valves The valve guides |
| Stuck valves Carbon on the valve stem or valve seat may cause the valve to stay open. | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The valves The valve guides |
| IMPORTANT |
|---|
| A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A light rattle/tapping noise may indicate a valve train, upper engine concern. |
Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| IMPORTANT: A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. | |
| Low oil pressure | Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing . Repair or replace damaged components as required. |
| Worn accessory drive components Abnormalities, such as severe cracking, bumps, or missing areas in the accessory drive belt and/or misalignment of system components | Inspect the accessory drive system. Repair or replace as required. |
| Loose or damaged crankshaft balancer | Inspect the crankshaft balancer. Repair or replace as required. |
| Detonation or spark knock | Verify the correct operation of the ignition system. Refer to Detonation/Spark Knock in Engine Controls - 2.0L. |
| Loose torque converter bolts | Inspect the torque converter bolts and flywheel. Repair or replace as required. |
| Loose or damaged flywheel | Repair or replace the flywheel. |
| Damaged oil pan, contacting the oil pump screen An oil pan that has been damaged, may improperly position the oil pump screen, preventing proper oil flow to the oil pump. | Inspect the oil pan. Inspect the oil pump screen. Repair or replace as required. |
| Oil pump screen loose, damaged or restricted | Inspect the oil pump screen. Repair or replace as required. |
| Excessive piston-to-cylinder bore clearance | Inspect the piston and cylinder bore. Repair as required. |
| Excessive piston pin-to-bore clearance | Inspect the piston, piston pin, and the connecting rod. Repair or replace as required. |
| Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The connecting rod bearings The connecting rods The crankshaft The crankshaft journals |
| Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The crankshaft bearings The crankshaft journals |
| Incorrect piston, piston pin, and connecting rod installation Pistons must be installed with the mark or dimple on the top of the piston, facing the front of the engine. Piston pins must be centered in the connecting rod pin bore. | Verify the pistons, piston pins and connecting rods are installed correctly. Repair as required. |
| IMPORTANT |
|---|
| A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. |
Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
Engine Noise Under Load
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| IMPORTANT: A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. | |
| Low oil pressure | Perform an oil pressure test. Refer to Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing . Repair or replace as required. |
| Detonation or spark knock | Verify the correct operation of the ignition. Refer to Detonation/Spark Knock in Engine Controls - 2.0L. |
| Loose torque converter bolts | Inspect the torque converter bolts and flywheel. Repair as required. |
| Cracked flywheel, automatic transmission | Inspect the flywheel bolts and flywheel. Repair as required. |
| Excessive connecting rod bearing clearance | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The connecting rod bearings The connecting rods The crankshaft |
| Excessive crankshaft bearing clearance | Inspect the following components, and repair as required: The crankshaft bearings The crankshaft journals The cylinder block crankshaft bearing bore |
| IMPORTANT |
|---|
| A cold piston knock which disappears in 1.5 minutes should be considered acceptable. A cold engine knock usually disappears when the specific cylinder secondary ignition circuit is grounded out during diagnosis. DEFINITION: A low rumble/knocking may indicate a crankshaft or piston, lower engine concern. |
Engine Noise Under Load
Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| Seized accessory drive system component | Remove accessory drive belts. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the balancer or flywheel location. |
| Hydraulically locked cylinder Coolant/antifreeze in cylinder Oil in cylinder Fuel in cylinder | Remove spark plugs and check for fluid. Inspect for broken head gasket. Inspect for cracked engine block or cylinder head. Inspect for a sticking fuel injector. Inspect for cracked cylinder wall. |
| Seized automatic transmission torque converter | Remove the torque converter bolts. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the balancer or flywheel location. |
| Seized manual transmission | Disengage the clutch. Rotate crankshaft by hand at the balancer or flywheel location. Refer to Unit Repair Manual - Manual Transmission. |
| Broken timing chain and/or gears | Inspect timing chain and gears. Repair as required. |
| Seized balance shaft | Inspect balance shaft. Repair as required. |
| Material in cylinder Broken valve Piston material Foreign material Cracked cylinder wall | Inspect cylinder for damaged components and/or foreign materials. Inspect for fallen cylinder wall. Repair or replace as required. |
| Seized crankshaft or connecting rod bearings | Inspect crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Inspect for fallen cylinder wall. Repair as required. |
| Bent or broken connecting rod | Inspect connecting rods. Repair as required. |
| Broken crankshaft | Inspect crankshaft. Repair as required. |
Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate
Coolant in Combustion Chamber
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| DEFINITION: Excessive white smoke and/or coolant type odor coming from the exhaust pipe may indicate coolant in the combustion chamber. Low coolant levels, an inoperative cooling fan, or a faulty thermostat may lead to an "overtemperature" condition which may cause engine component damage. A slower than normal cranking speed may indicate coolant entering the combustion chamber. Refer to Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate . Remove the spark plugs and inspect for spark plugs saturated by coolant or coolant in the cylinder bore. Inspect by performing a cylinder leak-down test. During this test, excessive air bubbles within the coolant may indicate a faulty gasket or damaged component. Inspect by performing a cylinder compression test. Two cylinders "side-by-side" on the engine block, with low compression, may indicate a failed cylinder head gasket. Refer to Engine Compression Test . | |
| Faulty cylinder head gasket | Replace the head gasket and components as required. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection and Cylinder Head Replacement . |
| Warped cylinder head | Replace the cylinder head and gasket. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection . |
| Cracked cylinder head | Replace the cylinder head and gasket. |
| Cracked cylinder sleeve | Replace the components as required. |
| Cylinder head or block porosity | Replace the components as required. |
Coolant in Combustion Chamber
Coolant in Engine Oil
| Cause | Correction |
|---|---|
| DEFINITION: Foamy or discolored oil or an engine oil "overfill" condition may indicate coolant entering the engine crankcase. Low coolant levels, an inoperative cooling fan, or a faulty thermostat may lead to an "overtemperature" condition which may cause engine component damage. Contaminated engine oil and oil filter should be changed. Inspect the oil for excessive foaming or an overfill condition. Oil diluted by coolant may not properly lubricate the crankshaft bearings and may lead to component damage. Refer to Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed . Inspect by performing a cylinder leak-down test. During this test, excessive air bubbles within the cooling system may indicate a faulty gasket or damaged component. Inspect by performing a cylinder compression test. Two cylinders "side-by-side" on the engine block with low compression may indicate a failed cylinder head gasket. Refer to Engine Compression Test . | |
| Faulty cylinder head gasket | Replace the head gasket and components as required. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection and Cylinder Head Replacement . |
| Warped cylinder head | Replace the cylinder head and gasket. Refer to Cylinder Head Cleaning and Inspection . |
| Cracked cylinder head | Replace the cylinder head and gasket. |
| Cracked cylinder sleeve | Replace the components as required. |
| Cylinder head or block porosity | Replace the components as required. |
Coolant in Engine Oil
Engine Compression Test
Perform the following steps to conduct a compression test.
- Conduct the following steps to check cylinder compression. Engine should be at room temperature. Disconnect wiring from the ignition module. Remove the spark plugs. Throttle body valve should be wide open. Battery should be at or near full charge.
- For each cylinder, crank engine through 4 compression strokes.
- The lowest reading cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest.
- No cylinder reading should be less than 689 kPa (100 psi).
| IMPORTANT | The results of a compression test will fall into the following categories: Normal Compression builds up quickly and evenly to specified compression on each cylinder. Piston Rings Compression is low on the first stroke, tends to build up on following strokes, but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably with the addition of oil. Valves Compression is low on the first stroke, does not tend to build up on the following strokes, and does not improve much with the addition of oil. Use approximately 3 squirts from a plunger-type oiler. |
Tools Required
J 35667-A Cylinder Head Leakdown Tester or equivalent. See Special Tools .
Test Procedure
| IMPORTANT | A leakage test may be performed in order to measure cylinder/combustion chamber leakage. High leakage may indicate one or more of the following |
- Worn or burnt valves
- Broken valve springs
- Stuck valve lifters
- Incorrect valve lash/adjustment
- Damaged piston
- Worn piston rings
- Worn or scored cylinder bore
- Damaged cylinder head gasket
- Cracked or damaged cylinder head
- Cracked or damaged engine block
- Disconnect the battery ground negative cable.
- Remove the spark plugs. Refer to «SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Rotate the crankshaft to place the piston in the cylinder being tested at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
- Install the J 35667-A or equivalent. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Apply shop air pressure to the J 35667-A and adjust according to the manufacturers instructions. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Record the cylinder leakage value. Cylinder leakage that exceeds 25 percent in considered excessive and may require component service. In excessive leakage situations, inspect for the following conditions: Air leakage sounds at the throttle body or air inlet hose that may indicate a worn or burnt intake valve or a broken valve spring. Air leakage sounds at the exhaust system tailpipe that may indicate a worn or burnt exhaust valve or a broken valve spring. Air leakage sounds from the crankcase, oil level indicator tube, or oil fill tube that may indicate worn piston rings, a damaged piston, a worn or scored cylinder bore, a damaged engine block or a damaged cylinder head. Air bubbles in the cooling system may indicate a damaged cylinder head or a damaged cylinder head gasket.
- Perform the leakage test on the remaining cylinders and record the values.
Oil Consumption Diagnosis
Excessive oil consumption, not due to leaks, is the use of 0.9 L (1 qt) or more of engine oil within 3 200 kilometers (2,000 miles). The causes of excessive oil consumption include the following conditions
- External oil leaks Tighten bolts and/or replace gaskets and oil seals as necessary.
- Incorrect oil level or improper reading of oil level indicator With the vehicle on a level surface, allow adequate drain down time and check for the correct oil level.
- Improper oil viscosity Use recommended SAE viscosity for the prevailing temperatures.
- Continuous high speed driving and/or severe usage
- Crankcase ventilation system restrictions or malfunctioning components
- Valve guides and/or valve stem oil seals worn, or the seal omitted Ream guides and install oversize service valves and/or new valve stem oil seals.
- Piston rings broken, improperly installed, worn, or not seated properly Allow adequate time for rings to seat. Replace broken or worn rings as necessary.
- Piston improperly installed or mis-fitted
Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing
- With the vehicle on a level surface, allow adequate drain down time of 2-3 minutes and measure for a low oil level. Add the recommended grade engine oil and fill the crankcase until the oil level measures full on the oil level indicator.
- Run the engine, and verify low, or no oil pressure on the vehicle gage or light. Listen for a noisy valve train or a knocking noise.
- Inspect for the following: Oil diluted by moisture or unburned fuel mixtures Improper oil viscosity for the expected temperature Incorrect or malfunctioning oil pressure sender Incorrect or malfunctioning oil pressure gage Plugged oil filter Malfunctioning oil bypass valve
- Remove the oil pressure sender or another engine block oil gallery plug.
- Install an oil pressure gage and measure the engine oil pressure.
- Compare the readings to specifications. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-mechanical-specifications) .
- If the engine oil pressure is below specifications, inspect the engine for one or more of the following: Oil pump worn or dirty Refer to «Oil Pump Disassemble»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__oil-pump-disassemble) . Oil pump-to-engine front cover bolts loose Refer to «Engine Front Cover and Oil Pump Installation»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-front-cover-and-oil-pump) . Oil pump screen loose, plugged, or damaged Oil pump screen O-ring seal missing or damaged Malfunctioning oil pump pressure regulator valve Excessive bearing clearance Refer to «Crankshaft and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) . Cracked, porous or restricted oil galleries Oil gallery plugs missing or incorrectly installed Refer to «Engine Block Assemble»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-block-assemble) . Broken lash adjusters
Oil Leak Diagnosis
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| DEFINITION: You can repair most fluid leaks by first, visually locating the leak, repairing or replacing the component, or by resealing the gasket surface. Once the leak is identified, determine the cause of the leak. Repair the cause of the leak as well as the leak itself. | |||
| 1 | Operate the vehicle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Refer to Engine Mechanical Specifications . Park the vehicle on a level surface, over a large sheet of paper or other clean surface. Wait 15 minutes. Check for drippings. Are drippings present? | Go to Step 2 | System OK |
| 2 | Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 3 |
| 3 | Visually inspect the suspected area. Use a small mirror to assist in looking at hard to see areas. Check for leaks at the following locations: Sealing surfaces Fittings Cracked or damaged components Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Completely clean the entire engine and surrounding components. Operate the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and at varying speeds. Park the vehicle on a level surface, over a large sheet of paper or other clean surface. Wait 15 minutes. Identify the type of fluid, and the approximate location of the leak. Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 5 |
| 5 | Visually inspect the suspected area. Use a small mirror to assist in looking at hard to see areas. Check for leaks at the following locations: Sealing surfaces Fittings Cracked or damaged components Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 6 |
| 6 | Completely clean the entire engine and surrounding components. Apply an aerosol-type powder, for example, baby powder or foot powder, to the suspected area. Operate the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and at varying speeds. Identify the type of fluid, and the approximate location of the leak, from the discolorations in the powder surface. Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 7 |
| 7 | Visually inspect the suspected area. Use a small mirror to assist in looking at hard to see areas. Check for leaks at the following locations: Sealing surfaces Fittings Cracked or damaged components Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 8 |
| 8 | Use J 28428-E , Dye and Light Kit in order to identify the type of fluid, and the approximate location of the leak. See Special Tools . Refer to the manufacturer's instructions when using the tool. Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | Go to Step 9 |
| 9 | Visually inspect the suspected area. Use a small mirror to assist in looking at hard to see areas. Check for leaks at the following locations: Sealing surfaces Fittings Cracked or damaged components Can you identify the type of fluid and the approximate location of the leak? | Go to Step 10 | System OK |
| 10 | Inspect the engine for mechanical damage. Special interest should be shown to the following areas: Higher than recommended fluid levels Higher than recommended fluid pressures Plugged or malfunctioning fluid filters or pressure bypass valves Plugged or malfunctioning engine ventilation system Improperly tightened or damaged fasteners Cracked or porous components Improper sealants or gaskets where required Improper sealant or gasket installation Damaged or worn gaskets or seals Damaged or worn sealing surfaces Inspect the engine for customer modifications. Is there mechanical damage, or customer modifications to the engine? | Go to Step 11 | System OK |
| 11 | Repair or replace all damaged or modified components. | Go to Step 1 | |
Oil Leak Diagnosis
Crankcase Ventilation System Inspection/Diagnosis
- Disconnect the PCV hose.
- Start the engine.
- Check for vacuum at the hose. If there is no vacuum, check for a plugged hose or manifold port. Check for a hose that collapses when blocked (vacuum applied). Replace the plugged or the deteriorated hoses.
- Allow the engine to idle at normal operating temperature.
- Remove the engine oil dipstick and install a vacuum gage on the dipstick tube.
- Block off the PCV system fresh air intake passage.
- Run the engine at 1500 RPM for 30 seconds, then read vacuum gage while engine is running at 1500 RPM. If vacuum is present, this indicates that the crankcase ventilation system is functioning properly. If no vacuum is indicated, the engine may not be sealed and is drawing in outside air. Check the valve covers, the oil pan gasket or other sealing areas for leaks. If the vacuum gage registers a pressure, or if a vacuum gage is pushed out of dipstick tube, check for a plugged PCV port, a plugged hose or an excessive engine blow-by.
Diagnostic Aids
The symptom may be intermittent due to moisture on the drive belt or the pulleys. It may be necessary to spray a small amount of water on the drive belt in order to duplicate the customers concern. If spraying water on the drive belt duplicates the symptom, cleaning the belt pulleys may be the probable solution.
A loose or improper installation of a body component, a suspension component, or other items of the vehicle may cause the chirping noise.
Test Description
The numbers below refer to the step number on the diagnostic table.
- 2: The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise do not proceed further with this table.
- 3: The noise may be an internal engine noise. Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period will verify the noise is related to the drive belt. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.
- 4: Inspect all drive belt pulleys for pilling. Pilling is the small balls or pills or it can be strings in the drive belt grooves from the accumulation of rubber dust.
- 6: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across 2 or 3 pulleys. If a misaligned pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the proper installation procedure for that pulley.
- 10: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed.
- 12: Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used to drive the pulley.
- 14: Replacing the drive belt when it is not damaged or there is not excessive pilling will only be a temporary repair.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: The following items are indications of chirping: A high pitched noise that is heard once per revolution of the drive belt or a pulley. It usually occurs on cold damp mornings. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Verify that there is a chirping noise. Does the engine make the chirping noise? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 3 | Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds. Does the chirping noise still exist? | Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise Under Load | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect for severe pilling exceeding 1/3 of the belt groove depth. Does the belt grooves have pilling? | Go to Step 5 | Go to Step 6 |
| 5 | Clean the drive belt pulleys with a suitable wire brush. Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Step 6 |
| 6 | Inspect for misalignment of the pulleys. Are any of the pulleys misaligned? | Go to Step 7 | Go to Step 8 |
| 7 | Replace or repair any misaligned pulleys. Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Step 8 |
| 8 | Inspect for bent or cracked brackets. Did you find any bent or cracked brackets? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Step 10 |
| 9 | Replace any bent or cracked brackets. Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Step 10 |
| 10 | Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find the condition? | Go to Step 11 | Go to Step 12 |
| 11 | Tighten any loose fasteners. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications . Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Step 12 |
| 12 | Inspect for a bent pulley. Did you find the condition? | Go to Step 13 | Go to Step 14 |
| 13 | Replace the bent pulley. Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Step 14 |
| 14 | Replace the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 15 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 15 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | Go to Step 3 |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Chirping Diagnosis
A loose or improper installation of a body component, a suspension component, or other items of the vehicle may cause the squeal noise.
If the noise is intermittent, verify the accessory drive components by varying their loads making sure they are operated to their maximum capacity. An overcharged A/C system, power steering system with a pinched hose or wrong fluid, or a generator failing are suggested items to inspect.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 2: The noise may not be engine related. This step is to verify that the engine is making the noise. If the engine is not making the noise do not proceed further with this table
- 3: The noise may be an internal engine noise. Removing the drive belt and operating the engine for a brief period will verify the squeal noise is the drive belt or an accessory drive component. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.
- 4: This test is to verify that an accessory drive component does not have a seized bearing. With the belt remove test the bearings in the accessory drive components for turning smoothly. Also test the accessory drive components with the engine operating by varying the load on the components to verify that the components operate properly.
- 5: This test is to verify that the drive belt tensioner operates properly. If the drive belt tensioner is not operating properly, proper belt tension may not be achieved to keep the drive belt from slipping which could cause a squeal noise.
- 6: This test is to verify that the drive belt is not too long, which would prevent the drive belt tensioner from working properly. Also if an incorrect length drive belt was installed, it may not be routed properly and may be turning an accessory drive component in the wrong direction.
- 7: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across two or three pulleys. If a misaligned pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the proper installation procedure for that pulley.
- 8: This test is to verify that the pulleys are the correct diameter or width. Using a known good vehicle compare the pulley sizes.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: The following items are indications of drive belt squeal: A loud screeching noise that is caused by a slipping drive belt. The noise occurs when a heavy load is applied to the drive belt, such as an air conditioning compressor engagement snapping the throttle, or slipping on a seized pulley or a faulty accessory drive component. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Verify that there is a squeal noise. Does the engine make the squeal noise? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 3 | Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds. Does the noise still exist? | Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise Under Load | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect for an accessory drive component seized bearing or a faulty accessory drive component. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Step 5 |
| 5 | Test the drive belt tensioner for proper operation. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Step 6 |
| 6 | Inspect for the correct drive belt length. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Step 7 |
| 7 | Inspect for misalignment of a pulley. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Step 8 |
| 8 | Inspect for the correct pulley size. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 9 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 9 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | Go to Step 3 |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Squeal Diagnosis
The drive belt will not cause the whine noise.
If the whine noise is intermittent, verify the accessory drive components by varying their loads making sure they are operated to their maximum capacity. Such items but not limited to may be an A/C system overcharged, the power steering system restricted or the wrong fluid, or the generator failing.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 3: This test is to verify that the noise is being caused by the drive belt or the accessory drive components. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.
- 4: The inspection should include checking the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt idler pulley bearings. The drive belt may have to be installed and the accessory drive components operated separately by varying their loads. Refer to the suspected accessory drive component for the proper inspection and replacement procedure.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: A high pitched continuous noise that may be caused by an accessory drive component failed bearing. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Verify that there is a whine noise. Does the engine make the whine noise? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 3 | Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds. Does the whine noise still exist? | Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise Under Load | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect for a failed accessory drive component bearing. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 5 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 5 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Whine Diagnosis
Vibration from the engine operating may cause a body component or another part of the vehicle to make rumbling noise.
The drive belt may have a condition that can not be seen or felt. Sometimes replacing the drive belt may be the only repair for the symptom.
If replacing the drive belt, completing the diagnostic table, and the noise is only heard when the drive belt is installed, there might be an accessory drive component with a failure. Varying the load on the different accessory drive components may aid in identifying which component is causing the rumbling noise.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 2: This test is to verify that the symptom is present during diagnosing. Other vehicle components may cause a similar symptom.
- 3: This test is to verify that the drive belt is causing the rumbling noise. Rumbling noise may be confused with an internal engine noise due to the similarity in the description. Remove only one drive belt at a time if the vehicle has multiple drive belts. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.
- 4: Inspecting the drive belt is to ensure that it is not causing a the noise. Small cracks across the ribs of the drive belt will not cause the noise. Belt separation is identified by the plys of the belt separating and may be seen at the edge of the belt our felt as a lump in the belt.
- 5: Small amounts of pilling is normal condition and acceptable. When the pilling is severe the drive belt does not have a smooth surface for proper operation.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: A low pitch tapping, knocking, or thumping noise heard at or just above idle. Heard once per revolution of the drive belt or a pulley. Rumbling may be caused from: Pilling, the accumulation of rubber dust that forms small balls or strings in the drive belt pulley groove The separation of the drive belt A damaged drive belt | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Verify that there is a rumbling noise. Does the engine make the rumbling noise? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 3 | Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds. Does the rumbling noise still exist? | Go to Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds , Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed , or Engine Noise Under Load | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect the drive belt for damage, separation, or sections of missing ribs. Did you find any of these conditions? | Go to Step 7 | Go to Step 5 |
| 5 | Inspect for severe pilling of more than 1/3 of the drive belt pulley grooves. Did you find severe pilling? | Go to Step 6 | Go to Step 7 |
| 6 | Clean the drive belt pulleys using a suitable wire brush. Reinstall the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 8 | Go to Step 7 |
| 7 | Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? | Go to Step 8 | |
| 8 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Rumbling Diagnosis
The accessory drive components can have an affect on engine vibration. Such as but not limited to the A/C system over charged, the power steering system restricted or the incorrect fluid, or an extra load on the generator. To help identify an intermittent or an improper condition, vary the loads on the accessory drive components.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 2: This test is to verify that the symptom is present during diagnosing. Other vehicle components may cause a similar symptom such as the exhaust system, or the drivetrain.
- 3: This test is to verify that the drive belt or accessory drive components may be causing the vibration. When removing the drive belt the water pump may not be operating and the engine may overheat. Also DTCs may set when the engine is operating with the drive belt removed.
- 4: The drive belt may cause a vibration. While the drive belt is removed this is the best time to inspect the condition of the belt.
- 6: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed.
- 8: This step should only be performed if the fan is driven by the drive belt. Inspect the engine cooling fan for bent, twisted, loose, or cracked blades. Inspect the fan clutch for smoothness, ease of turning. Inspect for a bent fan shaft or bent mounting flange.
- 9: This step should only be performed if the water pump is driven by the drive belt. Inspect the water pump shaft for being bent. Also inspect the water pump bearings for smoothness and excessive play. Compare the water pump with a known good water pump.
- 10: Accessory drive component brackets that are bent, cracked, or loose may put extra strain on that accessory component causing it to vibrate.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: The following items are indications of drive belt vibration: The vibration is engine-speed related. The vibration may be sensitive to accessory load. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Verify that the vibration is engine related. Does the engine make the vibration? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 3 | Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Operate the engine for no longer than 30 to 40 seconds. Does the engine still make the vibration? | Go to Diagnostic Starting Point - Vibration Diagnosis and Correction in Vibration Diagnosis and Correction | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect the drive belt for wear, damage, debris build-up and missing drive belt ribs. Did you find any of these conditions? | Go to Step 5 | Go to Step 6 |
| 5 | Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? | Go to Step 11 | |
| 6 | Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find any of these conditions? | Go to Step 7 | Go to Step 8 |
| 7 | Tighten any loose fasteners. Replace improper or missing fasteners. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications . Did you complete the repair? | Go to Step 11 | |
| 8 | Inspect for damaged fan blades or bent fan clutch shaft, if the fan is belt driven. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 11 | Go to Step 9 |
| 9 | Inspect for a bent water pump shaft, if the water pump is belt driven. Refer to Water Pump Replacement (L4) in Engine Cooling. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 11 | Go to Step 10 |
| 10 | Inspect for bent or cracked brackets. Did you find and correct the condition? | Go to Step 11 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 11 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | Go to Step 3 |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Vibration Diagnosis
If the drive belt repeatedly falls off the drive belt pulleys, this is because of pulley misalignment.
An extra load that is quickly applied on released by an accessory drive component may cause the drive belt to fall off the pulleys. Verify the accessory drive components operate properly.
If the drive belt is the incorrect length, the drive belt tensioner may not keep the proper tension on the drive belt.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 2: This inspection is to verify the condition of the drive belt. Damage may of occurred to the drive belt when the drive belt fell off. The drive belt may of been damaged, which caused the drive belt to fall off. Inspect the belt for cuts, tears, sections of ribs missing, or damaged belt plys.
- 4: Misalignment of the pulleys may be caused from improper mounting of the accessory drive component, incorrect installation of the accessory drive component pulley, or the pulley bent inward or outward from a previous repair. Test for a misaligned pulley using a straight edge in the pulley grooves across two or three pulleys. If a misaligned pulley is found refer to that accessory drive component for the proper installation procedure of that pulley.
- 5: Inspecting the pulleys for being bent should include inspecting for a dent or other damage to the pulleys that would prevent the drive belt from not seating properly in all of the pulley grooves or on the smooth surface of a pulley when the back side of the belt is used to drive the pulley.
- 6: Accessory drive component brackets that are bent or cracked will let the drive belt fall off.
- 7: Inspecting of the fasteners can eliminate the possibility that a wrong bolt, nut, spacer, or washer was installed. Missing. loose, or the wrong fasteners may cause pulley misalignment from the bracket moving under load. Over tightening of the fasteners may cause misalignment of the accessory component bracket.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: The drive belt falls off the pulleys or may not ride correctly on the pulleys. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Inspect for a damaged drive belt. Did you find the condition? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Step 4 |
| 3 | Install a new drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Does the drive belt continue to fall off? | Go to Step 4 | System OK |
| 4 | Inspect for misalignment of the pulleys. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 12 | Go to Step 5 |
| 5 | Inspect for a bent or dented pulley. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 12 | Go to Step 6 |
| 6 | Inspect for a bent or a cracked bracket. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 12 | Go to Step 7 |
| 7 | Inspect for improper, loose or missing fasteners. Did you find loose or missing fasteners? | Go to Step 8 | Go to Step 9 |
| 8 | Tighten any loose fasteners. Replace improper or missing fasteners. Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications . Does the drive belt continue to fall off? | Go to Step 9 | System OK |
| 9 | Test the drive belt tensioner for operating correctly. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis . Does the drive belt tensioner operate correctly? | Go to Step 11 | Go to Step 10 |
| 10 | Replace the drive belt tensioner. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement . Does the drive belt continue to fall off? | Go to Step 11 | System OK |
| 11 | Inspect for failed drive belt idler and drive belt tensioner pulley bearings. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 12 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 12 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | Go to Step 2 |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Falls Off Diagnosis
Excessive wear on a drive belt is usually caused by an incorrect installation or the wrong drive belt for the application.
Minor misalignment of the drive belt pulleys will not cause excessive wear, but will probably cause the drive belt to make a noise or to fall off.
Excessive misalignment of the drive belt pulleys will cause excessive wear but may also make the drive belt fall off.
The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.
- 2: The inspection is to verify the drive belt is correctly installed on all of the drive belt pulleys. Wear on the drive belt may be caused by mis-positioning the drive belt by one groove on a pulley.
- 3: The installation of a drive belt that is two wide or two narrow will cause wear on the drive belt. The drive belt ribs should match all of the grooves on all of the pulleys.
- 4: This inspection is to verify the drive belt is not contacting any parts of the engine or body while the engine is operating. There should be sufficient clearance when the drive belt accessory drive components load varies. The drive belt should not come in contact with an engine or a body component when snapping the throttle.
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| NOTE: Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. DEFINITION: Wear at the outside ribs of the drive belt due to an incorrectly installed drive belt. | |||
| 1 | Did you review the Symptoms - Engine Mechanical operation and perform the necessary inspections? | Go to Step 2 | Go to Symptoms - Engine Mechanical |
| 2 | Inspect the drive belt for the proper installation. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you find this condition? | Go to Step 5 | Go to Step 3 |
| 3 | Inspect for the proper drive belt. Did you find this condition? | Go to Step 5 | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Inspect for the drive belt rubbing against a bracket, hose, or wiring harness. Did you find and repair the condition? | Go to Step 6 | Go to Diagnostic Aids |
| 5 | Replace the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement . Did you complete the replacement? | Go to Step 6 | |
| 6 | Operate the system in order to verify the repair. Did you correct the condition? | System OK | |
| NOTE |
|---|
| Refer to Belt Dressing Notice in Cautions and Notices. |
Drive Belt Excessive Wear Diagnosis
Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis
| Step | Action | Yes | No |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Remove the drive belt. Inspect the drive belt tensioner pulley. Is the drive belt tensioner pulley loose or misaligned? | Go to Step 4 | Go to Step 2 |
| 2 | Rotate the drive belt tensioner. Does the tensioner rotate without any unusual resistance or binding? | Go to Step 3 | Go to Step 4 |
| 3 | Use a torque wrench in order to measure the torque required to move the tensioner off of the stop. Use a torque wrench on a known good tensioner in order to measure the torque required to move the tensioner off of the stop. Is the first torque reading within 10 percent of the second torque reading? | System OK | Go to Step 4 |
| 4 | Replace the drive belt tensioner. Refer to Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement . Is the repair complete? | System OK |
Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis
Removal Procedure
- Remove the right front fender liner. Refer to «Front Fender Liner Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exterior-body-panels/#body-front-end) in Body Front End.
- Using an open end wrench, rotate the drive belt tensioner counter clockwise to release the spring tension.
- Remove the drive belt.
Installation Procedure
- Using an open end wrench, rotate the drive belt tensioner counter clockwise to release the spring tension.
- Install the drive belt.
- Install the right front fender liner. Refer to «Front Fender Liner Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exterior-body-panels/#body-front-end) in Body Front End.
- Remove the drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the drive belt tensioner bolts.
- Remove the drive belt tensioner.
- Install the drive belt tensioner.
- Install the drive belt tensioner bolts. Tighten: Tighten the drive belt tensioner bolts to 45 N.m (33 lb ft).
- Install the drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
Engine Mount Inspection
- Install the engine support fixture. Refer to «Engine Support Fixture»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-support-fixture) .
- Observe the engine mount while raising the engine. Raising the engine removes the weight from the engine mount and creates slight tension on the rubber.
- Replace the engine mount if the engine mount exhibits any of the following conditions: The hard rubber is covered with heat check cracks. The rubber is separated from the metal plate of the engine mount. The rubber is split through the center of the engine mount. The engine mount itself is leaking fluid.
- For engine mount replacement, refer to «Engine Mount Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to «Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Disconnect the engine oil pressure sensor electrical connector.
- Remove the engine oil pressure sensor from the engine oil cooler assembly.
- Install the engine oil pressure sensor to the engine oil cooler assembly. Tighten: Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Connect the engine oil pressure sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to «Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Support the engine with a hydraulic floor jack. Use a piece of wood between the jack and the oil pan.
- Remove the engine mount to intermediate bracket bolts.
- Remove the engine mount to midrail nuts (4).
- Remove the engine mount from the engine compartment.
- Place the engine mount onto the midrail and hand start the nuts.
- Tighten the engine mount to midrail nuts (4). Tighten: Tighten the nuts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft).
- Hand start the engine mount to intermediate bracket bolts.
- Tighten the engine mount to intermediate bracket bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
- Remove the hydraulic floor jack.
Engine Support Fixture
Tools Required
- SA9105E Engine Support Fixture (3 Bar). See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 43405 Engine Support Fixture Adaptor. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Place the engine support fixture long bar (2), from the SA9105E across the engine compartment. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the engine support fixture legs (3) from the J 43405 on the engine support fixture long bar and center above the engine. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the engine support fixture hooks (4) and engine support fixture handle to the engine support cross bar.
- Place the engine support cross bar over the engine support long bar and connect the hooks to the engine lift brackets.
- Raise the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Unclip the electrical wiring harness from the oil level indicator tube.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Remove the oil level indicator tube bolt and unclip the upper wiring harness.
- Remove the oil level indicator tube.
- Remove the oil level indicator tube seal.
- Install the oil level indicator tube seal.
- Install the oil level indicator tube.
- Clip the upper electrical wiring harness to the oil level indicator tube.
- Install the oil level indicator tube bolt. Tighten: Tighten the oil level indicator tube bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Raise the vehicle.
- Clip the lower wiring harness.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the camshaft cover.
- Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose from the air cleaner outlet duct.
- Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the camshaft cover.
- Connect the crankcase ventilation hose to the air cleaner outlet duct.
- Remove the drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) tube and EVAP valve.
- Remove the throttle body and gasket. Refer to «Throttle Body Assembly Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Remove the supercharger inlet pressure (SCIP) sensor.
- Disconnect the vacuum brake booster hose.
- Remove the intercooler fill neck bracket bolts.
- Remove the vacuum line from the supercharger.
- Remove the supercharger. Remove the gasket if damaged.
- Install the supercharger gasket.
- Install the supercharger and bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the intercooler fill neck bracket bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Connect the vacuum brake booster hose.
- Install the SCIP sensor and bolt. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the throttle body. Refer to «Throttle Body Assembly Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Remove the supercharger. Refer to «Supercharger Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the generator. Refer to «Generator Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Drain the charged air cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System - Charge Air Cooling System»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Disconnect the charged air cooling system inlet and outlet hoses.
- Remove the charged air coolant pump.
- Remove the cooling fan assembly. Refer to «Fan Shroud Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Remove the oil level indicator tube bolt.
- Remove the electrical connector from the intake manifold.
- Remove the coolant hoses from the intake manifold.
- Remove the intake manifold nuts and bolts.
- Remove the intake manifold.
- Remove the intake manifold gasket.
- Install the intake manifold gasket.
- Install the intake manifold.
- Install the intake manifold nuts and bolts. Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold nuts and bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the coolant hoses to the intake manifold. Tighten: Tighten the hose clamps to 17 N.m (13 lb ft).
- Connect the electrical connector to the intake manifold.
- Install the oil level indicator tube and bolt. Tighten: Tighten the oil level indicator tube bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Reposition the AC compressor and install the bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Install the cooling fan assembly. Refer to «Fan Shroud Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Install the charged air coolant pump. Refer to «Coolant Pump Replacement - Charge Air Cooler»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Install the generator. Refer to «Generator Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Connect the charged air cooling system inlet and outlet hoses.
- Fill the charged air cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System - Charge Air Cooling System»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Install the supercharger. Refer to «Supercharger Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
J 38122-A Harmonic Balancer Holder. See Special Tools .
- Remove the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Use J 38122-A to prevent the crankshaft from rotating while loosening the crankshaft balancer bolt. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt. Discard the bolt.
- Remove the crankshaft balancer.
- Install the crankshaft balancer.
- Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt.
- Use J 38122-A to prevent the crankshaft from rotating while tightening the crankshaft balancer bolt. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 75 degrees.
- Install the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
J 35268-A Camshaft/Front Main Seal Installer
- Remove the crankshaft balancer. Refer to «Crankshaft Balancer Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Use a flat-bladed tool to remove the seal from the front cover.
- Use the J 35268-A in order to install the crankshaft front oil seal to the engine front cover.
- Install the crankshaft balancer. Refer to «Crankshaft Balancer Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
Engine Front Cover Replacement
- Remove the crankcase balancer. Refer to «Crankshaft Balancer Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the drive belt tensioner.
- Remove the idler pulley.
- Remove the engine front cover to water pump bolt.
- Remove the remaining engine front cover bolts.
- Remove the engine front cover.
- If the engine front cover gasket is damaged, remove the front engine mount. Refer to «Engine Mount Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- If removed, install a new engine front cover gasket.
- Install the front engine mount. Refer to «Engine Mount Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Install the engine front cover.
- Install the engine front cover bolts. Tighten: Tighten the engine front cover bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the water pump bolt. Tighten: Tighten the water pump bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the idler pulley. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the drive belt tensioner.
- Install the drive belt tensioner bolts. Tighten: Tighten the drive belt tensioner bolts to 45 N.m (33 lb ft).
- Install the crankcase balancer. Refer to «Crankshaft Balancer Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
J 45027 Tensioner Tool. See Special Tools .
- Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Remove the engine front cover. Refer to «Engine Front Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-front-cover-replacement) .
- Lower the vehicle.
- Locate the No. 1 piston to approximately 60 degrees before top dead center (diamond shaped hole on intake camshaft sprocket at 12 o'clock position). Remove the spark plugs. This will ease the rotation effort.
- Remove the timing chain tensioner.
- Remove the fixed timing chain guide access plug.
- Remove the fixed timing chain guide.
- Remove the upper timing chain guide.
- Use a 24 mm wrench to hold the camshafts from turning.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt and discard.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft sprocket.
- Remove the timing chain tensioner guide.
- Remove the intake camshaft sprocket bolt and discard.
- Remove the intake camshaft sprocket.
- Remove the timing chain through the top of the cylinder head.
- Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
- Remove the oil nozzle and bolt.
- Remove the balance shaft drive chain tensioner.
- Remove the adjustable balance shaft chain guide.
- Remove the small balance shaft drive chain guide.
- Remove the upper balance shaft drive chain guide.
- Remove the balance shaft drive chain.
- Install the upper balance shaft chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the upper balance shaft chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the balance shaft drive chain with the colored links lined up on with the marks on the balance shaft drive sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. Use the following procedure to line up the links with the sprockets: Orient the chain so that the copper colored and chrome links are visible. Place the uniquely colored link (1) so that it lines up with the timing mark on the intake side balance shaft sprocket. Working clockwise around the chain, place the first matching colored link (2) in line with the timing mark on the crankshaft drive sprocket. (approximately 5 o'clock position on the crank sprocket). Place the chain (3) on the water pump drive sprocket (alignment is not critical). Align the last matching colored link (4) with the timing mark on the exhaust side balance shaft drive sprocket.
- Install the small balance shaft chain guide.
- Tighten the balance shaft chain guide bolts. Tighten: Tighten the chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the adjustable balance shaft drive chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Turn the tensioner plunger 90 degrees in its bore and compress the plunger until a paper clip can be inserted through the hole in the plunger body and into hole in the tensioner plunger.
- Install the timing chain tensioner.
- Tighten the chain tensioner bolts. Tighten: Tighten the chain tensioner bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Remove the paper clip from the balance shaft drive chain tensioner.
- Install the oil nozzle and bolt. Tighten: Tighten the oil nozzle bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the crankshaft sprocket with timing mark at the 5 o'clock position.
- Lower the timing chain through the opening in the top of the cylinder head. Carefully ensure that the chain goes around both sides of the cylinder block bosses (1, 2).
- Install the intake camshaft sprocket with the INT diamond at the 2 o'clock position.
- Hand tighten a NEW intake camshaft sprocket bolt.
- Route the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket with the matching colored link aligning with the timing mark.
- Route the timing chain around the intake camshaft sprocket with the uniquely colored link (1) aligning with the INT diamond.
- Install the timing chain tensioner guide through the opening in the top of the cylinder head. Tighten: Tighten the timing chain tensioner guide bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the timing chain matching colored link (3) at EXH triangle aligned at the 10 o'clock position.
- Use a 24 mm wrench to rotate the camshaft slightly, until exhaust sprocket aligns with the camshaft.
- Hand tighten the NEW exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt.
- Install the fixed timing chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the fixed timing chain bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Apply sealant, Saturn P/N 21485277 compound to thread and install the timing chain guide bolt access hole plug. Tighten: Tighten the chain guide plug to 90 N.m (59 lb ft).
- Install the timing chain upper guide. Tighten: Tighten the timing chain upper guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Inspect the timing chain tensioner. If the timing chain tensioner, O-ring seal, or washer is damaged, replace the timing chain tensioner.
- Measure the timing chain tensioner assembly from end to end. A new tensioner should be supplied in the fully compressed non-active state. A tensioner in the compressed state will measure 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. A tensioner in the active state will measure 85 mm (3.35 in) (a) from end to end.
- If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps: Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out. Install the J 45027-2 (2) into a vise. Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the J 45027-2 (2). Using the J 45027-1 (1), turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston.
- Inspect the bore of the tensioner body for dirt, debris, and damage. If any damage appears, replace the tensioner. Clean dirt or debris out with a lint-free cloth.
- Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore. If the piston assembly is compressed against the bottom of the bore, it will activate the tensioner, which will then need to be reset again.
- At this point the tensioner should measure approximately 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. If the tensioner does not read 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end repeat steps 29.1 through 29.4.
- Install the timing chain tensioner. Tighten: Tighten the timing chain tensioner to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
- Use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the end. Feed the tool down through the camshaft drive chain to rest on the timing chain. Then give a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner.
- Use a 24 mm wrench to hold the camshaft. Tighten: Tighten the NEW camshaft bolts to 85 N.m (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees.
- Install the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Raise the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Install the engine front cover. Refer to «Engine Front Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-front-cover-replacement) .
- Lower the vehicle.
- Remove the ignition coils. Refer to «Ignition Coil(s) Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Remove the ground strap and stud.
- Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose from the cam cover.
- Disconnect the fuel feed pipe from the fuel rail.
- Remove the camshaft cover bolts.
- Remove the camshaft cover.
- Install the camshaft cover and bolts. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft cover bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the ground strap to the camshaft cover. Tighten: Tighten the ground strap stud to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the ignition coils. Refer to «Ignition Coil(s) Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Connect the fuel feed pipe to the fuel rail.
- Install the fuel pipe bracket. Tighten: Tighten the fuel pipe bracket bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Connect the PCV hose to the cam cover.
J 43655 Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool. See Special Tools .
- Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the upper timing chain guide.
- Install the J 43655 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove both the intake and exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts and discard.
- Slide the camshaft sprockets forward.
- Mark bearing caps to ensure they are installed in the original position.
- Remove the bearing caps.
- Remove the intake camshaft.
- Remove the camshaft roller followers.
- Remove the hydraulic element lash adjusters.
- Lubricate the valve tips.
- Install the hydraulic element lash adjusters.
- Install the camshaft roller followers.
- Ensure that the alignment notches are aligned with the camshaft sprocket.
- Install the intake camshaft.
- Install the camshaft bearing caps.
- Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts in increments of 3 turns until they are seated. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Apply a 5 mm (0.197 in) bead of Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker® 51813 (or equivalent), to the rear intake camshaft bearing cap.
- Install the rear intake camshaft bearing cap bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts.
- Hand tighten NEW camshaft sprocket bolts.
- Remove the J 43655 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 85 N.m (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees.
- Install the upper timing chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the upper timing chain guide to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
J 43655 Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool. See Special Tools .
- Remove the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the upper timing chain guide.
- Install the J 43655 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove both the intake and the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolts and discard.
- Slide the camshaft sprockets forward.
- Mark the bearing caps to ensure that the bearing caps are installed in the original position.
- Remove the bearing caps.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft.
- Remove the camshaft roller followers.
- Remove the hydraulic element lash adjusters.
- Lubricate the valve tips.
- Install the hydraulic element lash adjusters.
- Install the camshaft roller followers.
- Ensure that the alignment notches are aligned with the camshaft sprocket.
- Install the exhaust camshaft.
- Install the camshaft bearing caps.
- Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts in increments of 3 turns until they are seated. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts.
- Hand tighten NEW camshaft sprocket bolts.
- Remove the J 43655 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 85 N.m (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees.
- Install the upper timing chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the upper timing chain guide to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the camshaft cover. Refer to «Camshaft Cover Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
Valve Stem Oil Seal and Valve Spring Replacement
Tools Required
- J 43649 Valve Spring Compressor. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 36017 Valve Guide Seal Remover. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the camshaft. Refer to «Intake Camshaft and Lifter Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) or «Exhaust Camshaft and Lifter Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the camshaft roller followers.
- Install the J 43649 to the cylinder head. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the spark plugs. Refer to «Spark Plug Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Install an air hose adaptor into the spark plug hole.
- Pressurize the cylinder to 690 kPa (100 psi).
- Compress the valve spring.
- Remove the valve spring keepers.
- Remove the valve spring.
- Using the J 36017 , remove the valve seal. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Using the J 36017 , install the valve seal. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the valve spring.
- Compress the valve spring.
- Install the valve spring keepers.
- Remove the air hose adaptor from the spark plug hole.
- Remove the J 43649 from the cylinder head. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the spark plugs. Refer to «Spark Plug Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Install the camshaft roller followers.
- Install the camshaft. Refer to «Intake Camshaft and Lifter Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) or «Exhaust Camshaft and Lifter Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter
- Remove the supercharger. Refer to «Supercharger Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the intake manifold. Refer to «Intake Manifold Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to «EXHAUST MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exhaust/#engine-exhaust-system) in Engine Exhaust.
- Remove the timing chain. Refer to «Timing Chain, Sprockets, and/or Tensioner Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Drain the cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L LSJ)»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence and discard.
- Remove the cylinder head and gasket.
- Clean all gasket surfaces.
- Install the cylinder head and gasket.
- Install NEW cylinder head bolts.
- Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft) plus 155 degrees.
- Install the NEW front cylinder head bolts. Tighten: Tighten the front cylinder head bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
- Install the timing chain. Refer to «Timing Chain, Sprockets, and/or Tensioner Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Install the exhaust manifold. Refer to «Exhaust Manifold Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exhaust/#engine-exhaust-system) in Engine Exhaust.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Install the intake manifold. Refer to «Intake Manifold Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Install the supercharger. Refer to «Supercharger Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Fill the cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Drain the charged air cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System - Charge Air Cooling System»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Remove the oil pressure sensor (1).
- Disconnect the oil cooler hoses (2).
- Remove the oil cooler stud (3) and the oil cooler bolts (4).
- Remove the oil cooler.
- Install the oil cooler.
- Install the oil cooler bolts (4) and stud (3). Tighten: Tighten the bolts and stud to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Connect the oil cooler hoses (2).
- Install the oil pressure sensor (1). Tighten: Tighten the sensor to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Fill the charged air cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System - Charge Air Cooling System»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Drain the engine oil.
- Remove the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the intercooler pump bracket bolts from the oil pan.
- Remove the lower AC compressor bolt from the oil pan.
- Remove the oil pan bolts.
- Remove the oil pan.
- Make sure that the oil pan and mounting surface on the lower crankcase are free of all oil and debris.
- Apply a 2 mm bead of RTV, Saturn P/N 21019581, around the perimeter of the oil pan and the oil suction port opening. Do not over apply the RTV. More than a 2 mm bead is not required.
- Install the oil pan.
- Install the oil pan bolts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten the oil pan bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the AC compressor bolts. Refer to «Compressor Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning__compressor-replacement-20l-lsj) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Install the intercooler pump bracket bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Lower the vehicle.
- Fill the engine oil to the proper level.
J 42067 Rear Main Seal Installer. See Special Tools .
- Remove the transmission. Refer to «Transmission Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- Remove the flywheel.
- Pry the crankshaft rear oil seal with a flat-bladed tool.
- Use the J 42067 and install the seal. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the flywheel. Tighten: Tighten the flywheel bolts to 53 N.m (39 lb ft) plus 25 degrees.
- Install the transmission. Refer to «Transmission Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- Remove the transmission. Refer to «Transmission Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- Remove the flywheel bolts, and note the position of the flywheel to the crank shaft
- Remove the flywheel.
- Position the flywheel on the crankshaft as previously noted.
- Install the flywheel bolts. Tighten: Tighten the flywheel bolts to 53 N.m (39 lb ft) plus 25 degrees.
- Install the transmission. Refer to «Transmission Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- With the tires in the straight forward position, remove the key from the ignition.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to «Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Remove the air outlet duct. Refer to «Air Cleaner Outlet Resonator Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Secure the cooling module to the upper body structure.
- Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to «Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
- Drain the cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Remove the radiator inlet hose.
- Remove the surge tank to cylinder head pipe. Refer to «Surge Tank Hose/Pipe Replacement - Inlet»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) and «Surge Tank Hose/Pipe Replacement - Outlet»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Remove the radiator outlet hose.
- Remove the inlet (1) and outlet (2) heater hoses. Refer to «Heater Hose Replacement - Inlet (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning) and «Heater Hose Replacement - Outlet (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Disconnect the following harness connectors: TMAP sensor Electronic temperature control (ETC) Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor Barometric pressure (BARO) sensor Crankshaft sensor Oil pressure sensor Purge solenoid Ignition coil modules Oxygen (O2) sensor Vehicle speed sensor Engine temperature sensor Boost solenoid Back-up lamp switch
- Remove the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Recover the refrigerant. Refer to «Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning__refrigerant-recovery-and-recharging) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Disconnect the compressor and condenser hose assembly from the compressor.
- Remove the AC compressor bolts and set the compressor aside.
- Disconnect the starter harness connectors (3, 4, 5).
- Disconnect the generator harness connectors.
- Drain the engine oil.
- Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Refer to «Exhaust Manifold Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exhaust/#engine-exhaust-system) in Engine Exhaust.
- Disconnect the transmission shift cable from the transmission.
- Use blocks of wood to support the powertrain assembly between the frame and the powertrain.
- Remove the engine mount. Refer to «Engine Mount Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the left transmission mount. Refer to «Transmission Mount Replacement - Left»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- Disconnect the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar. Refer to «Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/suspension-front/#front-suspension-system) in Front Suspension.
- Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles. Refer to «Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) in Power Steering System.
- Disconnect the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Refer to «Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/ignition-switchsteering-lock/#steering-wheel-steering-column) in Steering Wheel and Column.
- Disconnect the lower control arms from the steering knuckles. Refer to «Lower Control Arm Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/suspension-front/#front-suspension-system) in Front Suspension.
- Disconnect the drive axles from the steering knuckle. Refer to «Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/axle-shafts/#wheel-drive-shafts__wheel-drive-shaft-replacement) in Wheel Drive Shafts.
- Use a paint pen or magic marker in order to mark the frame to body position.
- Lower the vehicle to about 3 feet off the ground in order to position the lift table under the frame.
- Use wood blocks as necessary between the lift table and the frame to support the assembly.
- Slowly remove the frame bolts using the following sequence: Remove the front frame bolts. Partially unscrew the rear frame bolts until 1.5 inches of bolt shank is exposed.
- Slowly lower the table to the floor.
- Attach the engine lift hoist to the engine lift hooks.
- Remove the starter.
- Remove the transmission to engine bolts.
- Separate the engine from the transmission.
- Remove the clutch pressure plate and disk.
- Remove the following components: The exhaust manifold The exhaust manifold studs The engine mount bracket The fuel rail The thermostat housing and feed pipe The generator
- Remove the engine from the engine lift.
- Attach the engine lift hoist to the engine lift hooks.
- Install the following components: The exhaust manifold-Refer to «Exhaust Manifold Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/exhaust/#engine-exhaust-system) in Engine Exhaust. The fuel rail-Refer to «Fuel Rail Assembly Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L. The idler pulley The drive belt tensioner-Refer to «Drive Belt Tensioner Replacement - Supercharger»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) . The thermostat housing and feed pipe-Refer to «Thermostat Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling. The generator-Refer to «Generator Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) . The flywheel-Refer to «Engine Flywheel Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) . The clutch pressure plate and disk-Refer to «Clutch Drive Plate and Clutch Driven Plate (M86)»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#manual-transmission-clutch-system) or «Clutch Drive Plate and Clutch Driven Plate (MU3)»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#manual-transmission-clutch-system) in Clutch. The AC compressor-Refer to «Compressor Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning__compressor-replacement-20l-lsj) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Align the engine to the transmission.
- Secure the engine to the transmission. Tighten: Tighten the transmission to engine bolts to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
- Install the starter. Refer to «Starter Motor Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Remove the engine lift from the engine.
- Raise and position the frame and powertrain assembly to the vehicle.
- Hand start all the frame bolts while aligning the frame to the paint marks.
- Tighten the frame bolts. Tighten: Tighten the frame bolts to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 180 degrees.
- Remove the lift table.
- Connect the drive axles to the steering knuckles. Refer to «Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/axle-shafts/#wheel-drive-shafts__wheel-drive-shaft-replacement) in Wheel Drive Shafts.
- Connect the lower control arm to the steering knuckle. Refer to «Lower Control Arm Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/suspension-front/#front-suspension-system) in Front Suspension.
- Connect the intermediate steering shaft to the steering gear. Refer to «Power Steering Gear Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) in Power Steering System.
- Connect the outer tie rod ends to the steering knuckles. Refer to «Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) in Power Steering System.
- Connect the stabilizer links to the stabilizer bar. Refer to «Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/suspension-front/#front-suspension-system) in Front Suspension.
- Install the left transmission mount. Refer to «Transmission Mount Replacement - Left»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transaxle-mu3) in Manual Transmission - MU3.
- Install the engine mount. Refer to «Engine Mount Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Remove the wood blocks between the powertrain and frame.
- Connect the transmission shift cable to the transmission.
- Connect the exhaust takedown pipe to the exhaust manifold. Tighten: Tighten the nuts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
- Connect the generator harness connectors. Tighten: Tighten the generator terminal nut to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
- Connect the starter harness connectors (3, 4, 5). Tighten: Tighten the battery terminal nut to 17 N.m (13 lb ft). Tighten the S-terminal nut to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
- Install the compressor and condenser hose assembly to the compressor. Refer to «Compressor Hose Assembly Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Evacuate and charge the refrigerant system. Refer to «Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning__refrigerant-recovery-and-recharging) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Install the engine drive belt. Refer to «Drive Belt Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Connect the following harness connectors: TMAP sensor ETC MAP sensor Crankshaft sensor Oil pressure sensor Purge solenoid BARO sensor Ignition coil modules O2 sensor Vehicle speed sensor Engine temperature sensor Boost solenoid
- Install the inlet heater hose (1) and outlet heater hose (2). Refer to «Heater Hose Replacement - Inlet (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning) and «Heater Hose Replacement - Outlet (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/automatic-hvac-system/#heating-ventilation-and-air-conditioning) in Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
- Install the radiator outlet hose. Refer to «Radiator Hose Replacement - Inlet (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Connect the fuel line to the fuel rail.
- Install the surge tank to the cylinder head pipe. Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Release the cooling module from the upper body structure.
- Install the air outlet duct. Refer to «Air Cleaner Outlet Resonator Replacement»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/testing-diagnostics/#engine-controls-20l-introduction) in Engine Controls - 2.0L.
- Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to «Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/charging-system/#battery-charging-system-and-starting-system) in Engine Electrical.
- Fill the engine with engine oil to the proper level. Refer to «Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/lubrication-system/#maintenance-and-lubrication__fluid-and-lubricant-recommendations) in Maintenance and Lubrication.
- Fill the cooling system. Refer to «Draining and Filling Cooling System (2.0L (LSJ))»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/cooling-system-mechanical/#engine-cooling-system) in Engine Cooling.
- Road test the vehicle.
- Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to «Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lifting-and-jacking-the-vehicle) in General Information.
- Place a drain pan under the oil drain plug.
- Remove the oil pan drain plug.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Use a 32 mm (1 1/4 in) socket with a long extension (1/2 to 3/8 reducer helps if available) and ratchet on the hex on the top of the oil filter cap.
- Loosen the oil filter housing.
- Remove the tools.
- Remove the oil filter and housing.
- Remove the filter from the cap.
- Install the filter to the housing.
- Install the oil filter cap with filter.
- Install the oil filter to the housing.
- Use a 32 mm (1 1/4 in) socket with a long extension (1/2 to 3/8 reducer helps if available) and ratchet on the hex on the top of the oil filter cap. Tighten: Tighten the oil filter cap until fully seated, DO NOT exceed 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Raise the vehicle.
- Install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten: Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Lower the vehicle.
- Fill the engine with oil. Refer to «Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/lubrication-system/#maintenance-and-lubrication__fluid-and-lubricant-recommendations) in Maintenance and Lubrication.
Draining Fluids and Oil Filter Removal
- Remove the oil filter cap. Remove the oil pan drain plug and allow the oil to drain out.
- Remove the oil filter from the cap and discard.
- Clean the oil filter housing in the engine block.
- Install the oil pan drain plug. Tighten: Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Remove the water pump drain plug from the water pump and allow the coolant to drain from the water pump.
- Apply sealant P/N 21485278 to the water pump drain plug.
- Install the water pump drain plug. Tighten: Tighten the water pump drain plug to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
- If cleaning or repairing the engine block, it is not necessary to reinstall the plugs.
J 38122-A Harmonic Balancer Holder
- Remove the flywheel attaching bolt. Use the Harmonic Balancer Holder to prevent crankshaft rotation.
- Remove the flywheel.
Oil Level Indicator and Tube Removal
- Remove the tube bracket to the intake manifold bolt.
- Remove the tube from the oil pan.
Oil Cooler Removal
- Remove the oil cooler lines.
- Remove the oil pressure sensor.
- Remove the oil cooler.
- Remove the oil bypass tube. Discard the O-rings.
Exhaust Manifold Removal
- Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
- Remove the oxygen sensor.
- Remove and discard the exhaust manifold to cylinder head retaining nuts.
- Remove the exhaust manifold.
- Clean all of the sealing surfaces.
- If the exhaust manifold is being replaced, transfer the following parts: The exhaust manifold heat shield The oxygen sensor
Supercharger Removal
- Remove the evaporative emission (EVAP) tube and EVAP valve.
- Remove the throttle body and gasket.
- Remove the boost solenoid bracket nut. Place the boost solenoid, bracket, and hose out of the way.
- Remove the fuel rail feed line and injector harness bracket.
- Remove the barometric pressure sensor and coolant return line as an assembly.
- Remove the fuel rail and injector cups.
- Remove the boost solenoid, bracket, and hoses.
- Remove the supercharger bolts.
- Remove the supercharger.
- Remove the supercharger gasket.
Intake Manifold Removal
- Remove the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
- Remove the intake manifold retaining nuts and bolts.
- Remove the intake manifold.
- Remove the intake manifold gasket. Discard the gasket.
J 38122-A Harmonic Balancer Holder
- Install the Harmonic Balancer Holder.
- Remove the damper retaining bolt and washer. Use the Harmonic Balancer Holder and a breaker bar in order to prevent the crankshaft from rotating when loosening the bolt. Discard the bolt.
- Remove the damper assembly.
Camshaft Cover Removal
- Remove the power steering blockout plate.
- Remove the camshaft position sensor.
- Remove the lift hook.
- Remove the ignition coil cover.
- Remove the ignition coil.
- Remove the coil harness bracket.
- Remove the ground strap.
- Remove the camshaft cover assembly.
Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Removal
- Remove the camshaft position sensor housing studs.
- Remove and discard the camshaft position sensor housing seal.
Engine Front Cover and Oil Pump Removal
- Remove the accessory drive belt tensioner.
- Remove the idler pulley.
- Remove the alternator bracket and lift hook assembly.
- Remove the engine front cover bolts.
- Remove the long water pump bolt.
- Remove the engine front cover and gaskets.
- Remove the crankshaft front cover oil seal with an appropriate tool.
Timing Chain and Tensioner Removal
- Remove the upper timing chain guide bolts.
- Remove the upper timing chain guide.
- Remove the timing chain tensioner plunger.
- Locate hex on the exhaust camshaft and hold with a wrench.
- Remove the exhaust cam bolt and the exhaust cam sprocket. Discard the bolt.
- Remove the adjustable timing chain guide bolt.
- Remove the adjustable timing chain guide.
- Remove the plug to gain access to the fixed timing chain guide bolt.
- Remove the fixed timing chain guide bolts.
- Remove the fixed timing chain guide.
- Locate hex on the intake camshaft and hold with a wrench.
- Remove the intake cam sprocket bolt, the intake cam sprocket and the timing chain through the top of the cylinder head. Discard the bolt.
- Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
- Remove the oil nozzle and bolt.
Intake Camshaft, Follower, and Adjuster Removal
- Mark bearing caps to ensure they are installed in the same position.
- Remove the intake camshaft bearing cap bolts.
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps.
- Remove the intake camshaft.
- Remove the intake camshaft roller finger followers.
- Remove the hydraulic element adjusters.
Exhaust Camshaft, Follower, and Adjuster Removal
- Mark bearing caps to ensure they are installed in the same position.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft bearing cap bolts.
- Remove the camshaft bearing caps ensuring they are marked and refitted in same position on assembly.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft.
- Remove the exhaust camshaft roller finger followers.
- Remove the hydraulic element adjusters.
Balance Shaft Drive Chain and Tensioner Removal
- Remove the balance shaft drive chain tensioner bolts.
- Remove the balance shaft drive chain tensioner.
- Remove the adjustable balance shaft chain guide bolt.
- Remove the adjustable balance shaft chain guide.
- Remove the small balance shaft drive chain guide bolts.
- Remove the small balance shaft drive chain guide.
- Remove the upper balance shaft drive chain guide bolts.
- Remove the upper balance shaft drive chain guide.
- Remove the balance shaft drive chain.
- Remove the balance shaft drive sprocket.
J 43650 Balancer Shaft Bearing Remover and Installer. See Special Tools .
- Remove the balance shaft bearing carrier bolts.
- Remove the balance shaft assemblies.
- Install the J 43650 into the balance shaft hole. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Insert the tool with the foot parallel to the shaft.
- When the J 43650 is inserted in the block turn the J 43650 so that the foot becomes perpendicular to the shaft. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Center the foot of the J 43650 on the balance shaft bushing. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Once the J 43650 is centered on the balance shaft bushing, then insert the centering guide into the front balance shaft bore and tighten the nut with an appropriate wrench. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . When the J 43650 is properly installed, before removing the bushing, the end of the tool should be 116 mm (4.6 in) (a) from the block face. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . If the J 43650 is less than approximately 114 mm (4.5 in) (a), recheck the tool alignment. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Tighten the nut on the J 43650 until the tension releases. When the tension releases, remove the J 43650 and the balance shaft bushing. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Water Pump Removal
- Remove the thermostat housing cap and bolts.
- Remove the thermostat.
- Remove the oxygen sensor clip.
- Remove the thermostat housing and water feed pipe retaining bolts.
- Remove the thermostat housing and water feed pipe from the water pump cover.
- Remove the water pump retaining bolts. Be sure to remove the bolt that goes through the front of the engine block.
- Remove the water pump assembly.
J 38188 Cylinder Head Broken Bolt Extractor Kit. See Special Tools .
- Remove the cylinder head to the block bolts in sequence. Discard the bolts.
- Remove the cylinder head.
- Remove the cylinder head gasket.
- Clean all of the gasket surfaces.
- Use the following procedures when cleaning the cylinder head and cylinder block surfaces: Use a razor blade gasket scraper to clean the cylinder head and cylinder block gasket surfaces. Do not scratch or gouge any surface. IMPORTANT: Do not use any other method or technique to clean these gasket surfaces. Use a new razor blade for each cylinder head and cylinder block. IMPORTANT: Be careful not to gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces. Do not gouge or scrape the combustion chamber surfaces. The feel of the gasket surface is important, not the appearance. There will be indentations from the gasket left in the cylinder head after all of the gasket material is removed. These small indentations will be filled in by the new gasket. Hold the razor blade as parallel to the gasket surface as possible.
- Clean the old sealer/lube and dirt from the bolt holes.
- Clean the bolt holes with a nylon bristle brush.
- When cleaning the cylinder head bolt holes use a suitable commercial spray liquid solvent and compressed air from an extended-tip blow gun to reach the bottom of the holes.
- Remove any broken long cylinder head bolts using the J 38188 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Oil Pan Removal
- Remove the oil pan bolts.
- Remove the oil pan at pry points.
Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Removal
Tools Required
- J-43966-1 Connecting Rod Guides. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 41742 Connecting Rod Guides
- Rotate the crankshaft to a position where the connecting rod bolts are the most accessible.
- Mark the connecting rod and cap with the cylinder position. Also mark their orientation. This will ensure the caps and connecting rods are re-assembled properly.
- Remove any ridge at the top of the cylinder bore to avoid damage to the piston ring lands.
- Remove the connecting rod bolts.
- Remove the connecting rod cap.
- Install J-43966-1 / J 41742 on the connecting rod bolts before removing the piston and connecting rod assembly. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the piston and connecting rod assembly.
Lower Crankcase Removal
- Remove the crankshaft position sensor. Inspect the position sensor for damage. Replace if necessary.
- Remove the bedplate perimeter bolts.
- Remove and discard the crankshaft bearing bolts.
- Using the pry-points and an appropriate prying tool, gently separate the upper and lower crankcase.
Crankshaft and Bearings Removal
- Remove the crankshaft from the block.
- Remove the crankshaft rear oil seal from the block.
- Remove the bearing inserts from the block.
- Remove the bearing inserts from the bed plate.
- Clean the oil, sludge, and carbon.
- Inspect the oil passages for obstructions.
- Inspect the threads.
- Inspect the bearing journals and the thrust surfaces for the following conditions: Cracks Chips Gouges Roughness Grooves Overheating (discoloration)
- Inspect the corresponding bearing inserts for imbedded foreign material. If foreign material exists find the cause and repair it.
- Measure the crankshaft journals. Use a micrometer or dial indicator to measure the taper and runout. Note the result for the later selection of bearing inserts. If not within limits the crankshaft must be replaced. Note the location of the main bearing high spots. If they are not in line, the crankshaft is bent and must be replaced.
Engine Block Disassemble
- Remove the water jacket drain plug.
- Remove the oil flow check valve.
- Remove the rear oil passage plug.
- Remove the six oil passage plugs on the sides of the block.
- Remove the two water passage plugs on the top of the block.
- Remove the two front oil passage plugs.
- Remove the knock sensor and bolt.
- Remove the oil pressure switch.
- Remove the crankshaft position sensor and bolt.
Engine Block Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces.
- Clean the engine block and lower crankcase in a cleaning tank with solvent appropriate for aluminum.
- Flush the engine block with clean water or steam.
- Clean the oil passages.
- Clean the blind holes.
- Spray the cylinder bores and the machined surfaces with engine oil.
- Inspect the threaded holes. Clean the threaded holes with a rifle brush. If necessary, drill out the holes and install thread inserts. Refer to Thread Repair.
- Use a straight edge and a feeler gage to check the deck surface for flatness. Carefully machine minor irregularities. Replace the block if more than 0.254 mm (0.010 in) must be removed.
- Inspect the oil pan rail for nicks. Inspect the front cover attaching area for nicks. Use a flat mill file to remove any nicks.
- Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces on the lower crankcase engine block side.
- Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces on the lower crankcase oil pan side.
- Inspect the mating surfaces of the transmission face.
- Use the following procedure in order to measure the engine block flange runout at the mounting bolt hole bosses: Temporarily install the crankshaft. Measure the crankshaft flange runout. Hold the gage plate flat against the crankshaft flange. Place the dial indicator stem on the transmission mounting bolt hole boss. Set the indicator to 0. Record the readings obtained from all of the bolt hole bosses. The measurements should not vary more than 0.203 mm (0.008 in). Recheck the crankshaft flange runout if the readings vary more than 0.203 mm (0.008 in).
- Inspect the crankshaft main bearing bores. Use a bore gage to measure the bearing bore concentricity and alignment.
- Replace the engine block and bed plate if the crankshaft bearing bores are out of specification.
- Inspect the cylinder bores. Inspect for the following items: Wear Taper Runout Ridging
J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage. See Special Tools .
Honing Procedure
- Measure the cylinder bore for out-of-round and taper.
- Measure dimension (1) at 13 mm (1/2 in) below the head gasket surface. Measure dimension (2) at 100 mm (4 in) below the head gasket surface.
- Measure the cylinder bores by setting the J 8087 dial at zero in the cylinder at the point of the desired measurement. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Lock the dial indicator at zero before removing the dial from the cylinder. Measure across the gage contact points with an outside micrometer, with the gage at the same zero setting as when the gage was removed from the cylinder.
- Fine vertical scratches made by the ring ends do not, by themselves, cause excessive oil consumption. Do not hone the cylinder in order to remove these scratches.
- If the bore is glazed but otherwise serviceable, lightly break the glaze with a hone. Replace the piston rings. Refer to «Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__piston-connecting-rod-and-bearing-installation) . The honing stones must be clean, sharp, and straight. Move the hone slowly up and down to produce a 45 degree cross-hatch pattern. Clean the bore thoroughly with soap and water. Dry the bore. Rub clean engine oil in the bore. Remeasure the bore.
- If the cylinder bore is out of specification, install a new cylinder bore sleeve. Refer to «Cylinder Sleeve Removal»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) and «Cylinder Sleeve Installation»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- If honing is not required, clean the cylinder bores with hot water and detergent. Apply clean engine oil to the bore after washing and drying the bore.
EN-45680-400 Cylinder Sleeve Removal and Installation Kit. See Special Tools .
- If the crankshaft is still installed, rotate the crankshaft so that the counterweight is to the right side and the connecting rod journal is to the left side and not in alignment with the cylinder bore.
- Install the cylinder bore sleeve puller (1) through the cylinder bore.
- Align the shoe (1) of the cylinder bore sleeve puller to the bottom of the cylinder bore sleeve (117).
- Hold the threaded shaft of the cylinder bore sleeve puller upward in order to retain the shoe alignment to the bottom of the cylinder bore sleeve.
- Install the fixture (4) onto the threaded shaft of the cylinder bore sleeve puller and the engine block.
- Install the bearing (3) and the nut (1).
- Tighten the nut (1) to the bearing (3).
- Install and tighten the 4 attaching bolts (2) into the cylinder head bolt holes of the block. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).
- Rotate the nut clockwise in order to remove the cylinder bore sleeve.
- Remove the fixture, cylinder bore sleeve puller, and the cylinder bore sleeve (117) from the engine block.
- Loosen the nut (1) to remove the cylinder bore sleeve (117).
- Inspect the cylinder bore in the cylinder block for cracks or damage. If cracked or damaged, replace the cylinder block.
- Inspect the piston, piston rings, and connecting rod for damage. Refer to «Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
EN-45680-400 Cylinder Sleeve Removal and Installation Kit. See Special Tools .
- Place the NEW cylinder bore sleeve (117) onto the cylinder block.
- Install the fixture (1) over the cylinder bore sleeve (117) and onto the cylinder block. Do not apply downward pressure to the cylinder bore sleeve (117).
- Insert the 4 attachment bolts into the legs of the fixture (1).
- Tighten the 4 attachment bolts. Do not apply downward pressure to the cylinder bore sleeve (117). Tighten: Tighten the 4 attachment bolts to 15 N.m (11 lb ft).
- Align the bottom of the cylinder bore sleeve (117) with the cylinder bore of the block (100).
- Align the installation arbor (1) onto the top of the cylinder bore sleeve (117).
- Align the pusher block (2) into the groove of fixture (1).
- Using a ratchet, rotate the threaded shaft of fixture (1) in order to install the cylinder bore sleeve (117) into the engine block (100).
- Do not completely seat the cylinder bore sleeve in the block. Leave approximately 1/16 inch of the cylinder bore sleeve above the surface of the cylinder block.
- Using a torque wrench, torque the threaded shaft to 102 N.m (75 lb ft) to completely seat the cylinder bore sleeve in the cylinder block. With the cylinder bore sleeve properly installed, a minimal portion of the cylinder bore sleeve flange will protrude above the block deck surface.
- Remove the fixture (1) from the cylinder block (100).
Scheme 84
- EN 45680-865 Debris Collector (3)
- EN 45680-411 Trim Tool Assembly (2)
- Air Control Valve (1)
- Drill Motor with 1/2 inch chuck, 1 1/8 hp, 7 amps, triple gear reduction, and a 450-600 RPM rotational speed in a clockwise direction
Scheme 85
- Trim Tool Preloader (1)
- EN 45680-412 Set Gage Ring (2)
- EN 45680-413 Metal Shavings Catch Plug (3)
- EN 45680-866 Drive Adapter (4)
- EN 45680-414 Bolts (5)
- After installing the NEW cylinder bore sleeve(s) into the engine block, trim the excess material from the cylinder bore sleeve flange.
- Place the metal shaving catch plug into the cylinder bore sleeve to be trimmed. Position the top approximately 3.0 mm (0.12 in) below the top surface of the cylinder bore sleeve.
- Place additional metal shaving catch plugs into all remaining cylinder bore sleeves.
- Ensure that the metal shaving catch plug is 3.0 mm (0.12 in) below the top surface of the cylinder bore sleeve.
- The groove side of the set gage ring (1) should be positioned upward on a flat surface.
- Carefully position the trim tool assembly onto the set gage ring.
- Loosen the shaft collar screw (2).
- Push the shaft collar (2) downward using the trim tool preloader (1) until the shaft collar is positioned against the top of the flange bearing (3).
- Apply downward pressure on the collar and inner drive shaft using the trim tool preloader (1), then tighten the shaft collar screw. Tighten: Tighten the shaft collar screw to 19 N.m (14 lb ft).
- Place the trim tool assembly onto the cylinder to be trimmed with the directional arrow (1) pointing in line with the crankshaft centerline and the front of the block.
- Install the 4 bolts (2) into the cylinder head bolt holes in the block. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
- Fasten drive adapter (1) into the drill chuck.
- Connect a compressed air supply (75-125 psi) to the male quick connect (3) located on trim tool assembly. Turn the compressed air valve (2) to the open position. This starts the venturi vacuum system that will catch the metal shavings.
- Place the drive adapter and drill assembly (1) vertically onto the drive adapter end of trim tool assembly. Do not apply downward force on the drill until full rotational speed has been reached. After reaching full rotational speed, gradually apply downward force until the cutting action is complete in approximately 5 seconds.
- Remove the drive adapter (1) and drill assembly from the trim tool assembly.
- Turn off the compressed air valve (2).
- Remove the trim tool assembly from the engine block.
- Remove any material shavings that may be found on the metal shaving catch plug.
- Wipe the cylinder bore sleeve and surrounding areas free of any powder residue and then remove the metal shaving catch plug.
- Install a straight edge on the cylinder block perpendicular to the crankshaft center line.
- Using a light, illuminate the backside of the straight edge.
- Looking at the front of the straight edge, check to see if light is protruding through the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the cylinder bore sleeve flange. If light is present on either side or both sides of the cylinder bore sleeve, the cylinder bore sleeve is cut incorrectly and a new cylinder bore sleeve needs to be installed.
- Looking at the front of the straight edge, check to see if light is protruding through the bottom of the straight edge and the top of the cylinder block deck surface. If light is present on both sides of the cylinder block, the cylinder bore sleeve is cut correctly.
- Proceed to the next bore sleeve to be trimmed repeating steps 10-23 if necessary.
Crankshaft Balancer Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the crankshaft balancer.
- Clean the belt grooves of all dirt or debris with a wire brush.
- Dry the crankshaft balancer with compressed air.
- Inspect the crankshaft balancer for the following: Worn, grooved, or damaged hub seal surface A crankshaft balancer hub seal surface with excessive scoring, grooves, rust or other damage must be replaced. IMPORTANT: In order for the belt to track properly, the belt grooves should be free of all dirt or debris. Dirty or damaged belt grooves The balancer belt grooves should be free of any nicks, gouges, or other damage that may not allow the belt to track properly. Minor imperfections may be removed with a fine file. Worn, chunking or deteriorated rubber between the hub and pulley
Engine Flywheel Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the flywheel in solvent.
- Dry the flywheel with compressed air.
- Inspect the manual transmission flywheel for the following: Damaged ring gear teeth Loose or improperly positioned ring gear The ring gear has an interference fit onto the flywheel and should be positioned completely against the flange of the flywheel. A scored, grooved or damaged friction surface
J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator Set. See Special Tools .
Cleaning & Inspection Procedure
- Clean the crankshaft with solvent.
- Thoroughly clean all oil passages and inspect for restrictions or burrs.
- Dry the crankshaft with compressed air.
- Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft for damage.
- Inspect the crankshaft journals for wear (1). Journals should be smooth with no signs of scoring, wear, or damage.
- Inspect the crankshaft journals for grooves or scoring (2).
- Inspect the crankshaft journals for scratches or wear (3).
- Inspect the crankshaft journals for pitting or imbedded bearing material (4).
- Measure the crankshaft journals for out-of-round.
- Measure the crankshaft journals for taper.
- Measure the crankshaft runout. Using wooden V blocks, support the crankshaft on the front and rear journals.
- Use the J 7872 in order to measure the crankshaft runout at the front and rear intermediate journals. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Use the J 7872 in order to measure the runout of the crankshaft rear flange. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Replace the crankshaft if the measurements are not within specifications.
- Inspect crankshaft bearings for craters or pockets. Flattened sections on the bearing halves also indicate fatigue.
- Inspect the crankshaft bearings for excessive scoring or discoloration.
- Inspect the crankshaft bearings for dirt or debris imbedded into the bearing material.
- Inspect the crankshaft bearings for improper seating indicated by bright, polished sections of the bearing. If the lower half of the bearing is worn or damaged, both upper and lower halves should be replaced. Generally, if the lower half is suitable for use, the upper half should also be suitable for use.
J 43654 Piston Pin Clip Remover and Installer. See Special Tools .
Disassembly Procedure
- Disassemble the piston rings. Use a suitable tool in order to expand the rings. The piston rings must not be reused.
- Remove the piston pin retaining clips using the J 43654 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the piston pin.
Connecting Rod Measurement
- Clean the connecting rods in solvent and dry with compressed air.
- Inspect the connecting rods for the following: Signs of being twisted, bent, nicked, or cracked Scratches or abrasion on the rod bearing seating surface
- If the connecting rod bores contain minor scratches or abrasions, clean the bores in a circular direction with a light emery paper. DO NOT scrape the rod or rod cap.
- If the beam of the rod is scratched or has other damage replace the connecting rod.
- Measure the piston pin to connecting rod bore using the following procedure: Using an outside micrometer, take two measurements of the piston pin in the area of the connecting rod contact. Using an inside micrometer, measure the connecting rod piston pin bore. Subtract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin bore diameter. The clearance should not be more than 0.021 mm (0.0008 in).
- If there is excessive clearance, replace the piston pin.
- If there is still excessive clearance, replace the connecting rod.
Piston Measurement
- Clean the piston skirts and the pins with a cleaning solvent. DO NOT wire brush any part of the piston.
- Clean the piston ring grooves with a groove cleaner. Make sure oil ring holes and slots are clean.
- Inspect the pistons for the following conditions: Cracked ring lands, skirts, or pin bosses Ring grooves for nicks, burrs that may cause binding Warped or worn ring lands Eroded areas at the top of the piston (1) Scuffed or damaged skirts (2) Worn piston pin bores (3)
- Replace pistons that show any signs or damage or excessive wear.
- Measure the piston pin bore to piston pin clearances using the following procedure: Piston pin bores and pins must be free of varnish or scuffing. Use an outside micrometer to measure the piston pin in the piston contact areas. Using an inside micrometer, measure the piston pin bore. Subtract the measurement of the piston pin bore from the piston pin. The clearance should be within 0.002-0.012 mm (0.00007-0.00047 in). If the clearance is excessive, determine which component is out of specification.
- Measure the piston ring end gap using the following procedure: Place the piston ring in the area of the bore where the piston ring will travel (approximately 25 mm or 1 inch down from the deck surface). Be sure the ring is square with the cylinder bore by positioning the ring with the piston head. Measure the end gap of the piston ring with feeler gages. Compare the measurements with those provided below: The top compression ring end gap should be 0.20-0.40 mm (0.0060-0.015 in). The second compression ring end gap should be 0.35-0.55 mm (0.0137-0.0216 in). The oil ring end gap should be 0.25-0.76 mm (0.0098-0.029 in). If the clearance exceeds the provided specifications, the piston rings must be replaced. Repeat the procedure for all the piston rings.
- Measure the piston ring side clearance using the following procedure: Roll the piston ring entirely around the piston ring groove. If any binding is caused by a distorted piston ring, replace the ring. With the piston ring on the piston, use feeler gages to check clearance at multiple locations. The clearance between the surface of the top piston ring and the ring land should be no greater than 0.075 mm (0.0030 in). If the clearance is greater than specifications, replace the piston ring. If the new ring does not reduce the top ring side clearance to 0.075 mm (0.0030 in) or less, install a new piston.
- The top compression ring may be installed with either side up. There is a locating dimple on the 2nd compression ring near the end for identification of the top side. Install the 2nd compression ring with the dimple facing up.
- The clearance between the surface of the second piston ring and the ring land should be no greater than 0.069 mm (0.0026 in).
- If the new ring does not reduce the clearance to 0.069 mm (0.0026 in) or less, install a new piston.
- Measure piston width using the following procedure: Using an outside micrometer, measure the width of the piston 14.5 mm (0.570 in) above the bottom of the piston skirt at the thrust surface perpendicular to the centerline of the piston pin. Compare the measurement of the piston to its original cylinder by subtracting the piston width from the cylinder diameter. The proper clearance specification for the piston is 0.010-0.041 mm (0.0006-0.0016 in).
- If the clearance obtained through measurement is greater than these specifications and the cylinder bores are within specification, replace the piston.
Piston Selection
- Inspect the engine block cylinder bore. Refer to «Engine Block Cleaning and Inspection»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-block-cleaning-and-inspection) .
- Inspect the piston and the piston pin. Refer to «Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearings Cleaning and Inspection»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Use a bore gauge and measure the cylinder bore diameter. Measure at a point 64 mm (2.5 in) from the top of the cylinder bore.
- Measure the bore gauge with a micrometer and record the reading.
- With a micrometer or caliper at a right angle to the piston, measure the piston 14 mm (0.570 in) from the bottom of the skirt.
- Subtract the piston diameter from the cylinder bore diameter in order to determine piston-to-bore clearance.
- For proper piston-to-bore clearance. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-mechanical-specifications) .
- If the proper clearance cannot be obtained, select another piston and measure for the clearances.
- If the proper fit cannot be obtained, hone the cylinder bore or replace the cylinder block.
- When the piston-to-cylinder bore clearance is within specifications, mark the top of the piston using a permanent marker for installation to the proper cylinder. Refer to «Separating Parts»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__separating-parts) .
Piston and Connecting Rod Assemble
- Assemble the connecting rod and the piston.
- Use the following procedure in order to assemble the piston pin and the retainer: Coat the piston pin with oil. Install one side of one piston pin retainer into the retaining groove using the J 43654 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Rotate the retainer until it is fully seated in the groove, use insertion tool. Install the connecting rod and the piston pin. Push the piston pin until it bottoms in the previously installed retainer. Install the second piston pin retainer, using the J 43654 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Ensure that the piston moves freely.
- Install the following components of the oil control ring assembly (bottom ring): The expander The lower oil control ring The upper control ring
- Install the lower compression ring (second ring). Place the manufacturer's mark facing up.
- Install the upper compression ring (top ring).
Camshaft Cleaning and Inspection
- Inspect the camshaft journals and lobes for wear or scoring.
- Inspect the camshaft sprocket alignment notch for damage.
- Inspect the camshaft cover for damage or loose oil control baffles.
- Clean the camshaft cover.
- Wash the camshaft in solvent.
- Oil the camshaft.
- Inspect the camshaft cover for cracks or other signs of damage.
Timing Chain and Sprockets Cleaning and Inspection
- Inspect the timing chain guides for cracking or wear.
- Replace the timing chain guides if wear exceeds 1.12 mm (0.045 in) depth on the chain guide surface.
- Inspect the timing chain tensioner shoe for wear.
- Replace the timing chain tensioner shoe if wear exceeds 1.12 mm (0.045 in) depth on the chain guide surface.
- Inspect the timing chain and sprockets for wear.
- Inspect the camshaft sprocket faces for signs of movement.
- Inspect the camshaft sprocket teeth and chain for signs of excessive wear, chipping, or seizure of the timing chain links.
- Inspect the oil nozzle body for collapse or cracks at the bolt boss. Discard and replace the oil nozzle body if it is damaged.
- Remove the old oil from the timing chain tensioner.
- Inspect the timing chain tensioner for the scoring or free movement.
- Inspect the timing chain washer and O-ring for damage. If damaged, replace the timing chain tensioner.
Balance Shaft Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the balance shafts in solvent.
- Remove the balance shaft front bearing carriers from the balance shafts.
- Inspect the bearing surfaces on the balance shafts for scoring or unusual wear.
- Inspect the balance shaft drive sprockets for wear, damage, or missing teeth. When installing new balance shaft drive sprockets tighten to 55 N.m (41 lb ft).
- Measure the rear bearing journals on the balance shafts, the journals should be 36.723-36.743 mm (1.4458-1.4466 in) in diameter.
- Measure the front bearing journals on the balance shafts, the front bearing journals should be 20.020-20.000 mm (0.7881-0.7874 in) in diameter.
- When the balance shafts have been installed in the engine block, check for smooth rotation, sticking, binding, or roughness.
Balance Shaft Drive Chain and Sprockets Cleaning and Inspection
- Inspect the balance shaft drive chain guides for cracking or wear.
- Replace the balance shaft drive chain guides if wear exceeds 1.12 mm (0.045 in) depth on the chain guide surface.
- Inspect the balance shaft drive chain tensioner guide shoe for wear. Replace the balance shaft drive chain tensioner guide shoe if wear exceeds 1.12 mm (0.045 in) depth on the chain guide surface.
- Inspect the balance shaft drive chain and sprockets for wear.
- Inspect the crankshaft sprocket faces for signs of movement.
- Inspect the alignment notch in the balance shaft for cracking or damage.
- Inspect the water pump, crankshaft, and balance shaft sprocket teeth and chain for signs of excessive wear, chipping, or seizure of the balance shaft drive chain links.
- Inspect the timing chain tensioner for damage or wear.
Cylinder Head Disassemble
Tools Required
- J 8062 Valve Spring Compressor. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 36017 Valve Guide Seal Remover. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor Adapter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the engine coolant temperature sensor.
- Using the J 8062 and the J 43963 , compress the valve spring. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the valve keys.
- Slowly release the J 8062 and the J 43963 from the valve spring assembly. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Remove the retainer.
- Remove the spring.
- Remove the valve seal. Use the J 36017 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Do not reuse.
- Remove the valve.
- Remove the remaining valves.
- Remove the cylinder head plugs.
Valve Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the valves of carbon, oil and varnish. Carbon can be removed with a wire brush, varnish can be removed by soaking in Parts Immersion Solvent, or equivalent.
- Clean the valve guides.
- Inspect the valve stem for wear (4).
- Inspect the valve keeper groove for chipping or wear (5). Replace the valve if chipped or worn.
- Inspect the valve face for burning or cracking (1). If pieces are broken off, inspect the corresponding piston and cylinder head area for damage.
- Inspect the valve stem for burrs and scratches. Burrs and minor scratches may be removed with an oil stone.
- Inspect the valve stem for straightness and the valve head for bending or distortion (3) using V blocks. Bent or distorted valves must be replaced.
- Clean the deposits from the valve face. Inspect the valve face for grooving.
- Replace the valve if the face is grooved. Valve faces cannot be machined. If worn, or damaged, the valves must be replaced.
- The valves may be lightly lapped to the valve seats.
Cylinder Head and Gasket Surface Cleaning and Inspection
- Remove the spark plugs.
- Inspect the cylinder head gasket and mating surfaces for leaks, corrosion and blow-by. If the gasket has failed, use the following faults to determine the cause: Improper installation Loose or warped cylinder head Missing, off location or not fully seated dowel pins Corrosion in the seal area around the coolant passages Chips or debris in the cylinder head bolt holes Bolt holes in the cylinder block not drilled or tapped deep enough Other
- Inspect the cylinder head gasket surface. Cylinder head may be reused if corrosion is found only outside a 4 mm (0.375 in) band around each combustion chamber (1). Replace the cylinder head if the area between the valve seats is cracked (2). Replace the cylinder head if corrosion has been found inside a 4 mm (0.375 in) band around each combustion chamber (3).
- Clean the cylinder head bolts.
- Clean the cylinder head. Remove all varnish, soot and carbon to the bare metal.
- Clean the valve guides.
- Clean the threaded holes. Use a nylon bristle brush.
- Clean the remains of the sealer from the plug holes.
- Inspect the cylinder head bolts for damaged threads or stretching and damaged heads caused by improper use of tools.
- Replace all suspect bolts.
- Inspect the cylinder head for cracks. Check between the valve seats and in the exhaust ports.
- Inspect the cylinder head deck for corrosion, sand inclusions and blow holes.
- Inspect the cylinder head deck surface for flatness. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-mechanical-specifications) .
- Inspect the cylinder head intake and exhaust manifold mating surface for flatness.
- Inspect all the threaded holes for damage. Threads may be reconditioned with thread inserts.
- Inspect the sealing surfaces.
- Inspect the cylinder head plugs.
Cylinder Head Assemble
Tools Required
- J 8062 Valve Spring Compressor. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 9666 Valve Spring Tester
- J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor Adapter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Assembly Procedure
- Install NEW cylinder head plugs. Coat the plugs with threadlocker P/N 21485277, or equivalent.
- Inspect the valve springs. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-mechanical-specifications) for the tolerances.
- Look for the following conditions when inspecting the valve springs: Expanded height Unparallel spring ends Spring tension using J 9666 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Any distorted springs should be replaced
- Assemble the valves.
- Use the following steps to measure valve runout: Apply a dab of Prussian blue on the entire valve face. Seat the valve but do not rotate it. The Prussian blue traces transferred to the valve seat are an indication of concentricity of the valve seat. Clean all traces of Prussian blue. Apply a dab of Prussian blue on the valve seat and repeat the check. The traces of Prussian blue transferred to the valve face indicates valve face concentricity. Replace the valves, if required.
- Lubricate the valve stems with engine oil supplement.
- Install the valves.
- Install the new valve seals. Fully seat the seals on the valve guides.
- Install the spring.
- Install the retainer.
- Using the J 8062 and the J 43963 , compress the valve spring. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the valve keys.
- Slowly release the J 8062 and the J 43963 from the valve/spring assembly. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Inspect for proper valve key seating.
- Measure the valve installed height using a ruler. Measure from the base of the valve spring to the top of the valve. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__engine-mechanical-specifications) for the correct specification.
- Install the remaining valves, springs, and other components.
- Install the engine coolant temperature sensor. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
Oil Pump Disassemble
- Disassemble the pressure relief valve.
- Remove the oil pump gerotor cover and bolts.
- Clean all of the parts in cleaning solvent. Remove varnish, sludge and dirt.
- Inspect the oil pump for wear and scoring. Insure that all components are within specifications. Refer to «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-22l-l61__engine-mechanical-specifications) . Replace the front cover and oil pump assembly if it is out of specification or damaged.
Oil Pump Assemble
- Lubricate all oil pump parts with engine oil.
- Install the inner gear into the outer gear.
- Install the gears together into the front cover with the hub of the center gear facing the front cover.
- Install the oil pump gerotor cover and bolts. Tighten: Tighten the oil pump gerotor bolts to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
- Install the pressure relief valve piston.
- Install the pressure relief valve spring. Tighten: Tighten the pressure relief valve plug to 40 N.m (30 lb ft).
Intake Manifold Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the intake manifold mating surfaces.
- Inspect the intake manifold for damage.
- Inspect the intake manifold for cracks near bolt holes.
- Inspect the crankcase ventilation passages in the intake manifold face for blockage.
Exhaust Manifold Cleaning and Inspection
- Remove the oxygen sensor from the manifold.
- Clean the exhaust manifold in solvent.
- Dry the exhaust manifold with compressed air.
- Inspect the heat shield for damage.
- Use a straight edge and a feeler gage and measure the exhaust manifold mounting face for warpage. An exhaust manifold face with warpage in excess of 0.25 mm (0.010 in) may cause an exhaust leak and may effect OBD II system performance. Exhaust manifolds not within specifications must be replaced.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection
- Clean the oil pan mating surface.
- Clean the oil pan. Remove all the sludge and the oil deposits.
- Inspect the threads for the engine oil drain plug.
- Inspect the oil pan for cracking near the pan rail and the transmission mounting points.
- Inspect the oil pan for cracking resulting from impact or flying road debris.
- Inspect the oil pan baffle and pickup screen.
- Repair or replace the oil pan as necessary.
J 42385-850 Thread Repair Kit. See Special Tools .
Scheme 86
The thread repair process involves a solid, thin walled, self-locking, carbon steel, bushing type insert (1). During the bushing installation process, the driver tool expands the bottom external threads of the insert into the base material (2). This action mechanically locks the insert in place. Also, when installed to the proper depth, the flange of the insert will be seated against the counterbore of the repaired hole.
- Drill out the threads of the damaged hole (1). M6 inserts require a minimum drill depth of 15 mm (0.59 in). M8 inserts require a minimum drill depth of 20 mm (0.79 in). M10 inserts require a minimum drill depth of 23.5 mm (0.93 in).
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Counterbore the hole to the full depth permitted by the tool (1).
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Using a tap wrench (2), tap the threads of the drilled hole. M6 inserts require a minimum tap depth of 15 mm (0.59 in). M8 inserts require a minimum tap depth of 20 mm (0.79 in). M10 inserts require a minimum tap depth of 23.5 mm (0.93 in).
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Spray cleaner GM P/N 12346139, GM P/N 12377981, or equivalent, into the hole.
- Using compressed air, clean any cutting oil and chips out of the hole.
- Lubricate the threads of the installer tool (2) with the driver oil (1).
- Install the insert (2) onto the driver tool (1).
- Apply threadlock LOCTITE™ 277, J 42385-109 (1), or equivalent to the insert OD threads (2).
- Install the insert (2) into the hole. Install the insert until the flange of the insert contacts the counterbored surface. Continue to rotate the installer tool (1) through the insert. The installer tool will tighten up before screwing completely through the insert. This is acceptable. You are forming the bottom threads of the insert and mechanically locking the insert to the base material threads.
- Inspect the insert for proper installation into the hole. A properly installed insert (1) will be either flush or slightly below flush with the surface of the base material (2).
Cylinder Head Bolt Hole Thread Repair
- The cylinder head bolt hole thread repair kit consists of the following items: Drill (1) Tap (2) Installer (3) Sleeve (4) Alignment Pin (5) Bushing (6) Bolts (7) Fixture Plate (8)
- Install the fixture plate (3), bolts (1), and bushing (2) onto the engine block deck. Position the fixture plate and bushing over the hole that is to be repaired (4).
- Position the alignment pin (1) through the bushing and into the hole.
- With the alignment pin in the desired hole, tighten the fixture retaining bolts (2).
- Remove the alignment pin from the hole.
- Install the sleeve (2) onto the drill (1), if required.
- Drill out the threads of the damaged hole. Drill the hole until the stop collar of the drill bit or the sleeve contacts the bushing.
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Using a tap wrench, tap the threads of the drilled hole.
- Using a TAP wrench, tap the threads of the drilled hole. In order to tap the new threads to the proper depth, rotate the tap into the hole until the mark (3) on the tap align with the top of the drill bushing (2).
- Remove the fixture plate (1), bushing (2), and bolts.
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Spray cleaner GM P/N 12346139, GM P/N 12377981, or equivalent, into the hole.
- Using compressed air, clean any cutting oil and chips out of the hole.
- Lubricate the threads of the installer tool (2) with the driver oil (1).
- Install the insert (2) onto the driver tool (1).
- Apply threadlock LOCTITE™ 277, J 42385-109 (1), or equivalent to the insert OD threads (2).
- Install the insert and driver (1) into the hole. Rotate the driver tool until the mark on the tool aligns with the deck surface of the engine block. The installer tool will tighten up before screwing completely through the insert. This is acceptable. You are forming the bottom threads of the insert and mechanically locking the insert to the base material threads.
Main Cap Bolt Hole Thread Repair
- The main cap bolt hole thread repair kit consists of the following items: Drill (1) Tap (2) Installer (3) Fixture Plate (4) Long Bolts (5) Short Bolts (6) Alignment Pin (7) Bushing (8)
- Remove the alignment doll pins on the holes (1-4), if necessary.
- Install the fixture plate, bolt, and bushing, onto the engine block. Position the fixture plate and bushing over the hole that is to be repaired.
- Position the alignment pin in the desired hole and tighten the fixture retaining bolts.
- Drill out the damaged hole.
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Using a tap wrench, tap the threads of the drilled hole. In order to tap the new threads to the proper depth, rotate the tap into the hole until the mark (3) on the tap aligns with the top of the bushing (2).
- Using compressed air, clean out any chips.
- Spray cleaner GM P/N 12346139, or equivalent, into the hole.
- Using compressed air, clean any cutting oil and chips out of the hole.
- Lubricate the threads of the installer tool (2) with the driver oil (1).
- Install the insert (2) onto the driver tool (1).
- Apply threadlock LOCTITE™ 277, J 42385-109 (1), or equivalent to the insert OD threads (2).
- Install the insert and driver through the bushing (2), fixture plate (1) and into the hole. Rotate the driver tool until the mark on the tool (3) aligns with the top of the bushing (2). The installer tool will tighten up before screwing completely through the insert. This is acceptable. You are forming the bottom threads of the insert and mechanically locking the insert to the base material threads.
- Remove the driver, bushing (2), fixture plate (1), and bolts.
- Install the alignment doll pins in holes (1-4), if necessary.
Service Prior to Assembly
The importance of cleanliness during assembly cannot be overstated. Dirt or debris will cause engine damage. An automobile engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are measured in ten thousandths of an inch. When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness are important. A liberal coating of engine oil should be applied to friction areas during assembly in order to protect and lubricate the surfaces on initial operation. Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas are part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice even if not specifically stated.
Lubricate all moving parts with engine oil or a specified assembly lubricant. This will provide lubrication for initial start up.
Engine Block Assemble
- Install the drain plug in the water pump.
- Apply sealant P/N 21485278, to the plug before installation.
- Install the coolant jacket plugs. Tighten: Tighten the coolant jacket plug to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
- Install the rear oil passage plugs.
- Apply sealant P/N 21485278, to the plugs before installation. Tighten: Tighten the oil passage plug to 60 N.m (44 lb ft).
- Install the other oil passage plugs.
- Apply sealant P/N 21485278, to the plug before installation. Tighten: Tighten the oil passage plugs to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
- Lubricate the crankshaft position sensor O-ring with engine oil.
- Install the crankshaft position sensor and bolt. Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft position sensor bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the oil pressure switch. Tighten: Tighten the oil pressure switch to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the knock sensor and bolt. Tighten: Tighten the knock sensor bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Crankshaft and Bearings Installation
Tools Required
- J 36660-A (SA9140E) Torque Angle Meter
- J 8087 (SA9178NE-A) Cylinder Bore Checking Gage. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Scheme 87
| IMPORTANT | If crankshaft bearing failure is due to other than normal wear, investigate the cause. Inspect the crankshaft or connecting rod bearing bores. |
Inspect the connecting rod bearing bores or crankshaft main bearing bores using the following procedure
- Tighten the bearing cap to specification.
- Measure the bearing bore for taper and out-of-round using the J 8087 (SA9178NE-A). See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- No taper or out-of-round should exist.
Bearing Selection
- Measure the bearing clearance to determine the correct replacement bearing insert size. There are two methods to measure bearing clearance. Method A gives more reliable results and is preferred. Method A yields measurement from which the bearing clearance can be computed. Method B yields the bearing clearance directly. Method B does not give any indication of bearing run-out.
- To measure bearing clearance using Method A, use the following procedure: Measure the crankshaft bearing journal diameter with a micrometer in several places, 90 degrees apart. Average the measurements. Measure the crankshaft bearing journal taper and runout. Install the lower crankcase and tighten the bearing cap bolts to specification. Measure bearing I.D. in several places 90 degrees apart, average measurements. Subtract journal measurement from bearing I.D. measurement to determine clearance. Determine whether clearance is within specification. If out of spec choose different inserts. Measure the connecting rod inside diameter in the same direction as the length of the rod with an inside micrometer. Measure the crankshaft main bearing inside diameter with an inside micrometer.
- To measure bearing clearance using Method B, use the following procedure: Clean the used bearing inserts. Install the used bearing inserts. Place a piece of gaging plastic across the entire bearing width. Install the bearing caps. NOTE: In order to prevent the possibility of cylinder block or crankshaft bearing cap damage, the crankshaft bearing caps are tapped into the cylinder block cavity using a brass, lead, or a leather mallet before the attaching bolts are installed. Do not use attaching bolts to pull the crankshaft bearing caps into the seats. Failure to use this process may damage a cylinder block or a bearing cap. Install the bearing cap bolts to specification using the J 36660-A (SA9140E). Refer to specification table. IMPORTANT: Do not rotate the crankshaft. Remove the bearing cap, leaving the gaging plastic in place. It does not matter whether the gaging plastic adheres to the journal or to the bearing cap. Measure the gaging plastic at its widest point with the scale printed on the gaging plastic package. Remove the gaging plastic.
J 45059 Angle Meter. See Special Tools .
- Install the upper crankshaft bearings and lubricate bearing surfaces with engine oil.
- Install the crankshaft on the journals.
- Install the lower bearing halves, without grooves, into the lower crankcase. Apply oil to bearing surfaces.
- Apply sealer GM P/N 12346286 (Canadian P/N 10953472) to the surfaces of the engine block to bedplate mating surfaces.
- Install the lower crankcase. Tap gently into place with a suitable tool if necessary. Ensure it is aligned properly on the dowels.
- Install the NEW crankshaft bearing bolts in sequence finger tight. Tighten the crankshaft bearing bolts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft bearing bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft). Tighten the crankshaft bearing bolts in sequence using the J 45059 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft bearing bolts 70 degrees using the torque angle meter.
- Tighten the lower crankcase perimeter bolts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten the lower crankcase perimeter bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
J 42067 Rear Main Seal Installer. See Special Tools .
- Remove excess sealer from seal recess.
- Lubricate the outside diameter of the new crankshaft seal with clean engine oil.
- Using the J 42067 , press the new crankshaft seal into the housing. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . The J 42067 also establishes the depth of the seal in the crankshaft seal bore. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation
Tools Required
- J 8037 Piston Ring Compressor. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 45059 Angle Meter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J-43966-1 Connecting Rod Guides. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the connecting rod bearings. Use NEW bearings. Install the bearing inserts into the connecting rod and the connecting rod cap. Lubricate the connecting rod bearings with engine oil.
- Install the J-43966-1 into the connecting rod bolt holes. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . This protects the crankshaft journal during piston and connecting rod installation.
- Install the piston and the connecting rod to the correct bore. Stagger each piston ring end gap equally around the piston. Lubricate the piston and the piston rings with engine oil. Install J 8037 over the piston. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Do not disturb the piston ring end gap location. The piston must be installed so that the mark on the top of the piston faces the front of the engine. Place the piston in its matching bore. Tap the piston into its bore with a hammer handle. Guide the connecting rod to the connecting rod journal while tapping the piston into place. Hold the J 8037 against the engine block until all the rings have entered the cylinder bore. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Remove the connecting rod guides from the connecting rod bolt holes.
- Install the connecting rod cap.
- Install the connecting rod bolts. Always use new bolts. Tighten: Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft), plus 100 degrees using the J 45059 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the remaining connecting rods and piston assemblies.
- Measure the connecting rod side clearance with a feeler gauge. The correct clearance is 0.070-0.370 mm (0.0027-0.0145 in).
J 45059 (SA9140E) Angle Meter. See Special Tools .
- Install the cylinder head gasket to the block.
- Install the cylinder head.
- Lightly apply clean engine oil to the threads and the bottom side of the flange of the head bolt and allow the oil to drain before installing.
- Install and tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten bolts 30 N.m (22 lb ft). Then turn all the bolts 155 degrees in sequence. Use the J 45059 (SA9140E). See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the front cylinder head bolts. Tighten: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft).
Intake Camshaft, Follower, and Adjuster Install
- Install the hydraulic element lash adjusters into their bores in the cylinder head.
- Lubricate the hydraulic lash adjusters with engine oil supplement.
- Lubricate the valve tips with engine oil supplement.
- Position the roller followers on the tip of the valve stem and on the lash adjuster. Lubricate the roller followers with engine oil supplement.
- Set the intake camshaft on top of the roller followers in the camshaft bearing journals and lobes. Lubricate with engine oil supplement.
- Install the camshaft bearing caps and hand start the camshaft cap bolts.
- The timing chain sprocket alignment notch should be oriented to the eleven o'clock position.
- Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts in increments of three turns until they are seated. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing caps to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Apply Permatex® Anaerobic Gasket Maker 51813, 3.5 mm (0.138 in) bead, to rear intake camshaft bearing cap.
- Install the rear intake camshaft bearing cap bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Exhaust Camshaft, Follower, and Adjuster Install
- Install the hydraulic element lash adjusters into their bores in the cylinder head.
- Lubricate the hydraulic element lash adjusters with engine oil supplement.
- Lubricate the valve tips with engine oil supplement.
- Position the roller followers on the tip of the valve stem and on the lash adjuster. Lubricate the roller followers with engine oil supplement.
- Set the exhaust camshaft on top of the roller followers in the camshaft bearing journals. Lubricate with engine oil supplement.
- Install the camshaft bearing caps and hand start the camshaft cap bolts.
- The timing chain sprocket alignment notch should be oriented to the two o' clock position.
- Tighten the camshaft bearing cap bolts in increments of three turns until they are seated, lubricate. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft bearing caps to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Apply a 3.5 mm (0.138 in) bead of Permatex® anaerobic gasket maker 51813 to the rear intake camshaft bearing cap.
- Install the rear intake camshaft bearing cap bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
J 43650 Balance Shaft Bushing Remover/Installer. See Special Tools .
- Install the balance shaft bushing using the J 43650 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Seat the balance shaft bushing into the bore using the J 43650 and a wrench. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- When the J 43650 is fully seated in the engine block remove it with a wrench. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Place the number one piston at TDC.
- Install the balance shaft drive chain sprocket on the crankshaft.
- Lubricate the balance shaft lobes with engine oil.
- Install the balance shafts into their bores.
- Install the balance shaft retaining bolts. Tighten: Tighten the balance shaft retaining bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
Water Pump Installation
Prior to installing the water pump, read the entire procedure. Pay special attention to avoid part damage and to ensure proper sealing.
- Install the water pump assembly.
- Install the water pump bolts. Finger tighten the bolts.
- Tighten the water pump bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Apply sealant P/N 21485278 to the water pump drain plug.
- Install the water pump drain plug, if necessary. Tighten: Tighten the water pump drain plug to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
- Install the water feed tube.
- Lubricate the feed tube O-ring with anti-freeze.
- Install the water feed tube by twisting and pushing toward the water pump. Take care not to tear or damage the O-ring.
- Install the thermostat housing to block bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the thermostat.
- Install the thermostat housing cap and bolts.
Timing Balance Shafts to Engine
- Install the balance shaft drive sprocket.
- Install the balance shaft drive chain with the colored links lined up on with the marks on the balance shaft drive sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. There are three colored links on the chain. Two links are of matching colors, and one link is of a unique color. Use the following procedure to line up the links with the sprockets: Orient the chain so that the colored links are visible.
- Place the uniquely colored link (1) so that it lines up with the timing mark on the intake side balance shaft sprocket.
- Working clockwise around the chain, place the first matching colored link (2) in line with the timing mark on the crankshaft drive sprocket. (approximately 6 o'clock position on the crank sprocket)
- Place the chain (3) on the water pump drive sprocket. The alignment is not critical.
- Align the last matching colored link (4) with the timing mark on the exhaust side balance shaft drive sprocket.
Balance Shaft Drive Chain and Tensioner Install
- Install the upper balance shaft chain guide and bolts. Tighten: Tighten the upper balance shaft chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the small balance shaft chain guide.
- Install the balance shaft chain guide bolts. Tighten: Tighten the chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the adjustable balance shaft drive chain guide.
- Install the adjustable balance shaft drive chain guide bolts. Tighten: Tighten the chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Reset the timing chain tensioner by performing the following steps: Turn the tensioner plunger 90 degrees in its bore and compress the plunger. Turn the tensioner back to the original 12 o'clock position and insert a paper clip through the hole in the plunger body and into the hole in the tensioner plunger.
- Install the timing chain tensioner.
- Install the chain tensioner bolts. Tighten: Tighten the chain tensioner bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Remove the paper clip from the balance shaft drive chain tensioner.
J 45027 Tensioner Tool. See Special Tools .
- Install the timing chain drive sprocket to the crankshaft with the timing mark in the 5 o'clock position.
- Assemble the intake camshaft sprocket to the timing chain with the timing mark lined up with the uniquely colored link (1). Hand tighten a new intake camshaft sprocket bolt.
- Lower the timing chain through the opening in the cylinder head. Use care to ensure that the chain goes around both sides of the cylinder block bosses (1, 2).
- Route the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and line up the first matching colored link (2) with the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket, in approximately the 5 o'clock position.
- Install the adjustable timing chain guide through the opening in the cylinder head and install the adjustable timing chain bolt. Tighten: Tighten the adjustable timing chain guide bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket and a new bolt loosely onto the exhaust camshaft.
- Align the timing mark on the sprocket with the last matching colored link (3). Install the bolt finger tight.
- Using a 24 mm wrench, first turn the intake camshaft until the alignment feature on the back of the camshaft sprocket seats in the notch in the front of the intake camshaft. Turn the crankshaft 45 degrees in either direction. Turn the intake cam to the appropriate location. Turn the crankshaft back to top dead center.
- When the sprocket seats on the cam, tighten the sprocket bolt hand tight.
- Verify that all of the colored links and the appropriate timing marks are still aligned. If they are not, repeat the portion of the procedure necessary to align the timing marks.
- Install the fixed timing chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the fixed timing chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the upper timing chain guide. Tighten: Tighten the upper timing chain guide bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Using a 24 mm wrench, engage the hex on the intake camshaft and using a torque wrench, tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten: Tighten the intake camshaft sprocket bolt to 85 N.m (63 lb ft), plus 30 degrees using a torque angle meter.
- Using a 24 mm wrench, engage the hex on the exhaust camshaft and using a torque wrench, tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten: Tighten the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt to 85 N.m (63 lb ft), plus 30 degrees using a torque angle meter.
- Remove the old oil from the timing chain tensioner.
- Inspect the timing chain tensioner for scoring or free movement.
- Inspect the timing chain, chain washer and O-ring for damage. If damaged, replace the timing chain tensioner.
- Measure the timing chain tensioner assembly from end to end. A new tensioner should be supplied in the fully compressed non-active state. A tensioner in the compressed state will measure 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. A tensioner in the active state will measure 85 mm (3.35 in) (a) from end to end.
- If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps: Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out. Install the J 45027-2 (2) into a vise. Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the J 45027-2 (2). Using the J 45027-1 (1), turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston.
- Inspect the bore of the tensioner body for dirt, debris, and damage. If any damage appears, replace the tensioner. Clean dirt or debris out with a lint free cloth.
- Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore. If the piston assembly is compressed against the bottom of the bore, it will activate the tensioner, which will then need to be reset again.
- At this point the tensioner should measure approximately 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. If the tensioner does not read 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end repeat steps 16.1 and 16.4.
- Inspect to ensure all dirt and debris is removed from the timing chain tensioner threaded hole in the cylinder head.
- Install the timing chain tensioner assembly. Tighten: Tighten the timing chain tensioner to 75 N.m (55 lb ft).
- The timing chain tensioner is released by compressing it 2 mm (0.079 in) which will release the locking mechanism in the ratchet. To release the timing chain tensioner, use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the end. Feed the tool down through the cam drive chest to rest on the cam chain. Then give a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner.
- Inspect to ensure that all dirt and debris is removed from the timing chain oiling nozzle hole in the engine block.
- Install the timing chain oiling nozzle. Tighten: Tighten the timing chain oiling nozzle bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Apply sealant P/N 21485277 compound to the thread, and install the timing chain guide bolt access hole plug. Tighten: Tighten the access hole plug to 90 N.m (59 lb ft).
J 35268-A Camshaft/Front Main Seal Installer. See Special Tools .
- Install the seal into the front cover by driving it in from the timing chain side using J 35268-A . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Ensure that the engine front cover is properly supported when installing the seal.
Engine Front Cover and Oil Pump Installation
- Install the engine front cover with a new gasket.
- Install the long water pump bolt. Tighten: Tighten the water pump bolt to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the engine front cover bolts. Tighten: Tighten the engine front cover bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the generator bracket and lift hook assembly. Tighten: Tighten to 42 N.m (31 lb ft).
- Install the idler pulley. Tighten: Tighten the pulley to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Install the accessory drive belt tensioner. Tighten: Tighten the accessory drive belt tensioner bolt to 32 N.m (24 lb ft).
Crankshaft Damper Installation
Tools Required
- J 38122-A Harmonic Balancer Holder. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 45059 Angle Meter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install the damper onto the crankshaft indexing keyway. Use care to properly align the keyway and flats on the damper with the oil pump drive.
- Install the J 38122-A . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- Install a new retaining bolt and washer. Use the J 38122-A and a breaker bar in order to prevent the crankshaft from rotating when tightening the bolt. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 100 N.m (74 lb ft) plus 75 degrees using J 45059 . See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Installation
- Rotate the crankshaft until number 4 piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Refer to the crankshaft damper-to-front-cover timing marks.
- Install a NEW camshaft position sensor housing seal.
- Align the timing mark on the housing with the timing mark on the hex shaft.
- Install the camshaft position sensor housing.
- Install the camshaft position sensor housing studs. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft position sensor housing studs to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
Camshaft Cover Installation
- Assemble the camshaft cover and gasket. Ensure that the gasket is located in the retaining groove in the camshaft cover.
- Install the cover on the cylinder head and hand start the bolts. Tighten: Tighten the camshaft cover bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
- Install the spark plugs. Tighten: Tighten the spark plugs to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
- Install the ignition coil and module assembly to the cam cover. Tighten: Tighten the ignition coil and module assembly bolts to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
- Install the ignition coil cover. Tighten: Tighten the cover to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
- Install the lift hook. Tighten: Tighten the hook to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Install the camshaft position sensor. Tighten: Tighten the sensor to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
- Install the power steering blockout plate. Tighten: Tighten the power steering blockout plate bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Oil Pan Installation
- Make sure that the oil pan and mounting surface on the lower crankcase are free of all oil and debris.
- Apply a 2 mm bead of RTV P/N 21019581, around the perimeter of the oil pan and the oil suction port opening. Do not over apply the RTV. More than a 2 mm bead is not required.
- Install the oil pan.
- Install the oil pan bolts hand tight. Tighten: Tighten the oil pan bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft) in sequence.
J 44887 Oil Filter Wrench. See Special Tools .
- Install a new oil filter on the oil filter cap.
- Lubricate the O-ring on the oil filter cap with 5 W 30 engine oil.
- Use J 44887 to install the oil filter adapter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Tighten: Tighten the oil filter adapter to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
Intake Manifold Installation
- Install the intake manifold studs in the manifold face. Tighten: Tighten the intake manifold studs to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
- Install a new intake manifold gasket on the intake manifold.
- Install the intake manifold.
- Install the intake manifold bolts and nuts. Follow the tightening sequence. Tighten: Tighten the bolts and nuts to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
Supercharger Installation
- Install the supercharger gasket.
- Install the supercharger.
- Install the supercharger bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
- Install the boost solenoid, bracket and hoses.
- Install the fuel rail and injector cups.
- Install the fuel rail studs. Tighten: Tighten the fuel rail and injector studs to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the BARO sensor and coolant return line as an assembly.
- Install the coolant return line bolt. Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 8 N.m (71 lb in).
- Install the fuel rail feed line and injector harness bracket.
- Install the injector harness bracket nut. Tighten: Tighten the fuel feed line to 14 N.m (124 lb in). Tighten the fuel feed line and injector harness bracket nut to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the boost solenoid bracket nut. Tighten: Tighten the nut to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the boost solenoid hose to the supercharger.
- Install the throttle body gasket.
- Install the throttle body.
- Install the throttle body bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
Exhaust Manifold Installation
- Install new exhaust manifold studs. Tighten: Tighten the studs to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
- Install the exhaust manifold gasket.
- Install the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.
- Install NEW exhaust manifold to cylinder head retaining nuts finger tight.
- Tighten the NEW exhaust manifold to cylinder head retaining nuts in sequence. Tighten: Tighten the nuts to 14 N.m (124 lb in).
- Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound P/N 12397953.
- Install the oxygen sensor. Tighten: Tighten the oxygen sensor to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
- Install the exhaust manifold heat shield.
- Install the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts. Tighten: Tighten the bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft).
Oil Cooler Installation
- Install NEW O-rings on the oil bypass tube.
- Install the oil bypass tube. Tighten: Tighten the tube to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Install the oil cooler.
- Install the oil cooler bolts. Tighten: Tighten the oil cooler bolts to 16 N.m (12 lb ft).
- Install the oil pressure sensor. Tighten: Tighten the oil pressure sensor to 18 N.m (13 lb ft).
- Install the oil cooler lines.
Oil Level Indicator and Tube Installation
- Lubricate the oil level indicator tube O-ring with engine oil supplement.
- Install the tube into the oil pan.
- Install the indicator tube bracket to the intake manifold bolt. Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
Engine Flywheel Installation
Tools Required
- J 45059 Angle Meter. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
- J 38122-A Crankshaft Balancer Holder
- Install the flywheel.
- Install the new bolts.
- Holding the crankshaft damper with the Harmonic Balancer Holder, tighten the bolts evenly. Tighten: Using the J 45059 , tighten the bolts to 53 N.m (39 lb ft), plus 25 degrees. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) .
J 45299 Engine Preluber. See Special Tools .
Prelubing Procedure
- Locate the oil pressure switch and remove.
- Install the M12 x 1.75 adapter P/N 509376.
- Install the flexible hose to the adapter and open the valve.
- Pump handle on the J 45299 in order to flow a minimum of 1-1.9 liters (1-2 quarts) of engine oil. See «Special Tools»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l__special-tools) . Observe the flow of engine oil through the flexible hose and into the engine assembly.
- Close the valve and remove the flexible hose and adapter from the engine.
- Install the oil pressure switch to the engine. Tighten: Tighten the oil pressure switch to 22 N.m (16 lb ft).
- Top-off the engine oil to the proper level.
General Description
A crankcase ventilation system is used to consume crankcase vapors in the combustion process instead of venting them to atmosphere. Fresh air from the intake system is supplied to the crankcase, mixed with blow by gases and then passed through a calibrated orifice into the intake manifold.
Scheme 88
The primary control is through the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) orifice which meters the flow at a rate depending on inlet vacuum. The PCV orifice is an integral part of the camshaft cover. If abnormal operating conditions occur, the system is designed to allow excessive amounts of blow by gases to back flow through the crankcase vent into the intake system to be consumed by normal combustion.
Results of Incorrect Operation
A plugged orifice may cause the following conditions
- Rough idle
- Stalling or slow idle speed
- Oil leaks
- Sludge in engine
A leaking orifice may cause the following conditions
- Rough idle
- Stalling
- High idle speed
Cylinder Block
The cylinder block is lost foam cast aluminum with four cylinders arranged in-line. The cylinders have pressed in place iron liners. The block has five crankshaft bearings with the thrust bearing located on the second bearing from the front of the engine. The cylinder block incorporates a bedplate design that forms an upper and lower crankcase. This design promotes cylinder block rigidity and reduced noise and vibration.
Crankshaft
The crankshaft is cast nodular iron with eight counterweights. The number eight counterweight is also the ignition system reluctor wheel. The main bearing journals are cross-drilled, and the upper bearings are grooved. The crankshaft has a slip fit balance shaft drove sprocket. Number two main bearing is the thrust bearing. A harmonic damper is used to control torsional vibration.
Connecting Rod and Piston
The connecting rods are powdered metal. The connecting rod incorporates the floating piston pin. The pistons are cast aluminum. The piston rings are of a low tension type to reduce friction. The top compression ring is ductile iron with a molybdenum facing and phosphate coated sides. The second compression ring is gray iron. The oil ring is a 3-piece spring construction with chromium plating.
Oil Pan
The oil pan is die cast aluminum. The oil pan includes an attachment to the transmission to provide additional structural support.
Balance Shaft Assembly
There are two block mounted balance shafts located on each side of the crankcase at the bottom of the cylinder bores. The balance shafts are driven by a single roller chain that also drives the water pump. The chain is tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner that is supplied pressure by the engine oil pump. This design promotes the maximum effectiveness of the balance shaft system and reduces noise and vibration.
Cylinder Head
The cylinder head is a lost foam aluminum casting. Pressed-in powdered metal valve guides and valve seat insets are used. The fuel injection nozzle is located in the intake port. The cylinder head incorporates camshaft bearing journals and camshaft bearing caps.
Valves
There are two intake and two exhaust valves per cylinder. Rotators are used on all of the intake valves. The rotators are located at the bottom of the valve spring to reduce valve train reciprocating mass. Positive valve stem seals are used on all valves.
Camshaft
Two camshafts are used, one for all intake valves, the other for all exhaust valves. The camshafts are cast iron. The intake camshaft had a pressed-in hex insert. The hex inset is used to drive the direct drive power steering pump.
Valve Lifters
The valve train uses a roller finger follower acted on by a hydraulic element adjuster. The roller finger follower reduces friction and noise.
Camshaft Cover
The camshaft cover is cast aluminum with steel crankcase ventilation baffling incorporated. The camshaft cover has mounting locations for the ignition system.
Camshaft Drive
A single row roller chain is used for camshaft drive. There is a tensioner and active guide used on the slack side of the chain to control chain motion and noise. The chain drive promotes long valve train life and low maintenance.
Intake and Exhaust Manifold
The intake manifold is made of composite plastic. The exhaust manifold is cast iron. The intake manifold incorporates a distribution and control system for PCV gases. The exhaust manifold is a dual plane design that promotes good low end torque and performance.
Scheme 89
| Callout | Component Name |
|---|---|
| 1 | Hydraulic Lifter |
| 2 | Cam Bearing |
| 3 | Cylinder Head |
| 4 | Timing Chain Tensioner |
| 5 | Cam Drive Chain Oil Nozzle |
| 6 | Crankshaft Bearing |
| 7 | Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner |
| 8 | Oil Pump |
| 9 | Oil Pick Up |
| 10 | Oil Pan |
| 11 | Bedplate |
| 12 | Balance Shaft Bearings |
| 13 | Oil Filter |
Oil is applied under pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, balance shaft assembly, camshaft bearing surfaces, valve lifters and timing chain hydraulic tensioner. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash. Oil enters the gerotor type oil pump thorough a fixed inlet screen. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. The oil pump body is within the engine front cover. The pressurized oil from the pump passes through the oil filter. The oil filter is located on the right (front) side of the engine block. The oil filter is housed in a casting that is integrated with the engine block. The oil filter is a disposable cartridge type. A by-pass valve in the filter cap allows continuous oil flow in case the oil filter should become restricted. Oil then enters the gallery where it is distributed to the balance shafts, crankshaft, camshafts and camshaft timing chain oiler nozzle. The connecting rod bearings are oiled by constant oil flow passages through the crankshaft connecting the main journals to the rod journals. A groove around each upper main bearing furnishes oil to the drilled crankshaft passages. The pressurized oil passes through the cylinder head restrictor orifice into the cylinder head and then into each camshaft feed gallery. Cast passages feed each hydraulic element adjuster and drilled passages feed each camshaft bearing surface. An engine oil pressure switch or sensor is installed at the end. Oil returns to the oil pan through passages cast into the cylinder head. The timing chain lubrication drains directly into the oil pan.
Cleanliness and Care
An automobile engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished, and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are measured in ten thousandths of an inch. When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness are important. A liberal coating of engine oil should be applied to friction areas during assembly to protect and lubricate the surfaces during initial operation. Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas are part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice even if not specifically stated.
When valve train components are removed for service, they should be retained in order. At the time of installation, they should be installed in the same locations and with the same mating surfaces as when removed.
Separating Parts
| IMPORTANT | Disassembly of the piston, press fit design piston pin, and connecting rod may create scoring or damage to the piston pin and piston pin bore. If the piston, pin, and connecting rod have been disassembled, replace the components as an assembly. Many internal engine components will develop specific wear patterns on their friction surfaces. When disassembling the engine, internal components MUST be separated, marked, or organized in a way to ensure installation to their original location and position. |
Separate, mark, or organize the following components
- Piston and the piston pin
- Piston to the specific cylinder bore
- Piston rings to the piston
- Connecting rod to the crankshaft journal
- Connecting rod to the bearing cap A paint stick or etching/engraving type tool are recommended. Stamping the connecting rod or cap near the bearing bore may affect component geometry.
- Crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings
- Camshaft and valve lifters
- Valve lifters, lifter guides, pushrods and rocker arm assemblies
- Valve to the valve guide
- Valve spring and shim to the cylinder head location
- Engine block main bearing cap location and direction
- Oil pump drive and driven gears
J 28410 Gasket Remover
Gasket Reuse and Applying Sealants
- Do not reuse any gasket unless specified.
- Gaskets that can be reused will be identified in the service procedure.
- Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless called out in the service information.
Separating Components
- Use a rubber mallet to separate components.
- Bump the part sideways to loosen the components.
- Bumping should be done at bends or reinforced areas to prevent distortion of parts.
Cleaning Gasket Surfaces
- Remove all gasket and sealing material from the part using the J 28410 or equivalent.
- Care must be used to avoid gouging or scraping the sealing surfaces.
- Do not use any other method or technique to remove sealant or gasket material from a part.
- Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper, or power tools to clean the gasket surfaces. These methods of cleaning can cause damage to the component sealing surfaces. Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and has been known to cause internal engine damage.
Assembling Components
- When assembling components, use only the sealant specified or equivalent in the service procedure.
- Sealing surfaces should be clean and free of debris or oil.
- Specific components such as crankshaft oil seals or valve stem oil seals may require lubrication during assembly.
- Components requiring lubrication will be identified in the service procedure.
- When applying sealant to a component, apply the amount specified in the service procedure.
- Do not allow the sealant to enter into any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause component damage when tightened.
- Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.
Pipe Joint Compound
| IMPORTANT | Three types of sealer are commonly used in engines. These are RTV sealer, anaerobic gasket eliminator sealer, and pipe joint compound. The correct sealer and amount must be used in the proper location to prevent oil leaks. DO NOT interchange the three types of sealers. Use only the specific sealer or the equivalent as recommended in the service procedure. |
- Pipe joint compound is a pliable sealer that does not completely harden. This type sealer is used where two non-rigid parts (such as the oil pan and the engine block) are assembled together.
- Do not use pipe joint compound in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include: exhaust manifold, head gasket, or other surfaces where gasket eliminator is specified.
- Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, refer to «Replacing Engine Gaskets»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Apply the pipe joint compound to a clean surface. Use a bead size or quantity as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause component damage when the bolt is tightened.
- Apply a continuous bead of pipe joint compound to one sealing surface. Sealing surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.
- Tighten the bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.
RTV Sealer
- Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant hardens when exposed to air. This type sealer is used where two rigid parts (such as the lower crankcase and the engine block) are assembled together.
- Do not use Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include: exhaust manifold, head gasket, or other surfaces where a gasket eliminator is specified.
- Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, refer to «Replacing Engine Gaskets»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Apply RTV to a clean surface. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when the bolt is tightened.
- Assemble components while RTV is still wet (within 3 minutes). Do not wait for RTV to skin over.
- Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.
Anaerobic Sealer
- Anaerobic gasket eliminator hardens in the absence of air. This type sealer is used where two rigid parts (such as castings) are assembled together. When two rigid parts are disassembled and no sealer or gasket is readily noticeable, the parts were probably assembled using a gasket eliminator.
- Follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, refer to «Replacing Engine Gaskets»(/chevrolet/cobalt/i-2004-2010/remont/mechanical/#engine-mechanical-20l) .
- Apply a continuous bead of gasket eliminator to one flange. Surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.
- Spread the sealer evenly with your finger to get a uniform coating on the sealing surface.
- Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when tightened.
- Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.
- After properly tightening the fasteners, remove the excess sealer from the outside of the joint.
Tools and Equipment
Special tools are listed and illustrated throughout this section with a complete listing at the end of the section. These tools, or their equivalents, are specially designed to quickly and safely accomplish the operations for which they are intended. The use of these special tools will also minimize possible damage to engine components. Some precision measuring tools are required for inspection of certain critical components. Torque wrenches and a torque angle meter are necessary for the proper tightening of various fasteners.
To properly service the engine assembly, the following items should be readily available
- Approved eye protection and safety gloves
- A clean, well lit, work area
- A suitable parts cleaning tank
- A compressed air supply
- Trays or storage containers to keep parts and fasteners organized
- An adequate set of hand tools
- Approved engine repair stand
- An approved engine lifting device that will adequately support the weight of the components
Special Tools
Special Tools Illustration Tool Number/Description EN45680-400 Cylinder Sleeve Removal and Installation Kit J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator Set J 8037 Piston Ring Compressor J 8062 Valve Spring Compressor J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage J 9666 Valve Spring Tester J 28428-E High Intensity Black Light Kit J 35268-A Front Crankshaft Seal Installer J 35667-A Cylinder Head Leakdown Tester J 36017 Valve Guide Seal Remover J 38122-A Harmonic Balancer Holder J 38188 Cylinder Head Broken Bolt Extractor Kit J 42067 Rear Main Seal Installer J 42385-850 Thread Repair Kit J 43405 Engine Support Fixture Adapter J 43649 Valve Spring Compressor J 43650 Balance Shaft Bearing Remover/Installer J 43654 Piston Pin Clip Remover/Installer J 43655 Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool J 43963 Valve Spring Compressor J 43966-1 Connecting Rod Guides J 44887 Oil Filter Wrench J 45027 Tensioner Tool J 45059 Angle Meter J 45299 Engine Pre-Luber SA9105E Engine Support Fixture (3-Bar)
Scheme 90
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Scheme 114
See also:
• Disassembled Views
• Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle
• Detonation/Spark Knock
• Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
• SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT
• Engine Mechanical Specifications
• Engine Front Cover and Oil Pump Installation
• Engine Block Assemble
• Engine Noise Under Load
• Fastener Tightening Specifications
• Diagnostic Starting Point - Vibration Diagnosis and Correction
• Water Pump Replacement (L4)
• Front Fender Liner Replacement
• Fastener Notice
• Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure
• Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle
• EXHAUST MANIFOLD REPLACEMENT
• Compressor Replacement (2.0L (LSJ))
• Transmission Replacement
• Heater Hose Replacement - Inlet (2.0L (LSJ))
• Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging
• Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement
• Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement
• Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
• Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement
• Clutch Drive Plate and Clutch Driven Plate (M86)
• Fluid and Lubricant Recommendations
• Safety Glasses Caution
• Engine Block Cleaning and Inspection
• Engine Component Description
• Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises
• Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises
• Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Valve Train Noise
• Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption
• Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption
• Engine Noise on Start-Up, but Only Lasting a Few Seconds
• Upper Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
• Lower Engine Noise, Regardless of Engine Speed
• Engine Noise Under Load
• Engine Will Not Crank - Crankshaft Will Not Rotate
• Engine Compression Test
• Oil Consumption Diagnosis
• Oil Pressure Diagnosis and Testing
• Oil Leak Diagnosis
• Special Tools
• Oil Pump Disassemble
• Drive Belt Tensioner Diagnosis
• Engine Support Fixture
• Engine Front Cover Replacement
• Piston, Connecting Rod, and Bearing Installation
• Separating Parts
• Engine Mechanical Specifications