Contents Wiring diagrams Section: Windows All sections

Glass Acura ZDX I

Windows 55 illustrations ~5441 words

Scheme 44

Scheme 44: Component Location Index

Windshield Replacement

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.

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Scheme 45: Windshield Replacement

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  1. Remove these items: Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mirrors/#mirrors) ) A-pillar trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-pillar-areas) ) Cowl cover (see «COWL COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__cowl-cover-replacement) ) Windshield side trims, both sides (see «WINDSHIELD SIDE TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__windshield-side-trim-replacement) )
  2. Remove the windshield upper molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut off the molding with a utility knife.
  3. If the original windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil.
  4. Pull down the front area of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__headliner-removalinstallation) ). NOTE: Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
  5. Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and the body. Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
  6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and the dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and the adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
  7. Carefully remove the windshield.
  8. Scrape smooth the original adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dams from the body.
  9. Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact on the clean surface.
  10. If you are reinstalling the original windshield, scrape off the original adhesive, the upper clips, and the rubber dams with a putty knife from the windshield. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
  11. Before installing a new windshield, attach a new rearview mirror harness cover base to the inside face of the windshield (see «REARVIEW MIRROR HARNESS COVER BASE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/windows/#glass__rearview-mirror-harness-cover-base-replacement) ).
  12. Apply glass primer to the upper clip mounting areas on the windshield (C), and let it dry. Remove the adhesive backing and attach the rubber dam A, B and the upper clips (D) to the inside of the windshield as shown in illustration: Make sure the rubber dams and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (E). Make sure the index tabs (F) on the clips face the right side. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
  13. Attach rubber dam C with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield (A) as shown in illustration, using the edge of the black ceramic-coated area (B) as a guide. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
  14. Attach the windshield upper molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the windshield (C). Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
  15. Attach the windshield upper seal (A) with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield upper molding (B) as shown in illustration.
  16. Set the windshield (A) in the opening, and center it. Make the alignment marks (B) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown in illustration: Make sure the pins (C) of both upper clips (D) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
  17. Remove the windshield.
  18. Apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the windshield upper molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with a gauze or a cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
  19. Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any old adhesive on the flange. Cover on the dashboard before applying the primer. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
  20. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown in illustration.
  21. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) on the windshield (B) along the edge of the windshield upper molding (C) and the rubber dams (D) as shown: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
  22. Hold the windshield over the opening with suction cups, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 16 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
  23. Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
  24. Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
  25. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Rearview Mirror Harness Cover Base Replacement

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands.

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Scheme 57: Rearview Mirror Harness Cover Base Replacement

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  1. Remove the rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/mirrors/#mirrors) ).
  2. Carefully cut through the adhesive tape under the rearview mirror harness cover base with a piano wire, then remove the base.
  3. Scrape off all of the original the adhesive tape with a putty knife from the windshield. Clean the bonding surface on the inside face of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease.
  4. If you are reinstalling the original rearview mirror harness cover base (A), scrape off all of the original adhesive tape with a putty knife from the base. Clean the base surface with a shop towel with isopropyl alcohol. Apply primer to the base as shown in illustration, and attach the adhesive tape (B) to the base. Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.031 in) Width 7 mm (0.28 in)
  5. Before installing the rearview mirror harness cover base, apply glass primer to the area where the harness cover base will be applied to the inside face of the windshield. Let the primer dry at least 10 minutes, then attach it to the windshield within 12 hours.
  6. Attach the rearview mirror harness cover base (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the inside face of the windshield as shown in illustration, then press the adhesive areas into place securely.
  7. Reinstall all remaining removed parts.

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seat.

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Scheme 60: Front Fixed Glass Panel Replacement

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  1. Remove these items: Windshield upper molding (see «GLASS SEAL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-seal-replacement) ) Glass front gap seal (see «GLASS FRONT GAP SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-front-gap-seal) )
  2. If the original front fixed glass panel will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the panel and body with a grease pencil.
  3. Open the moving glass panel.
  4. Apply protective tape along the edge of the body. Carefully insert a piece of piano wire past the bulb of the side seal, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
  5. With a helper, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the front fixed glass panel (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body. Carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire panel. Cutting positions B
  6. Carefully remove the front fixed glass panel.
  7. With a knife, scrape the original adhesive urethane path and hot melt patches smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire front fixed glass panel opening flange. Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding.
  8. Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact the clean surface.
  9. If the original front fixed glass panel will be reinstalled, scrape off the original adhesive urethane path and hot melt patches from the panel with a putty knife. Clean the inside face and the edge of the panel with isopropyl alcohol where new adhesive will be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
  10. Install the new glass front gap seal to the front fixed glass panel (see «GLASS FRONT GAP SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-front-gap-seal) ).
  11. Set the front fixed glass panel (A) in the opening as shown in illustration. Make alignment marks (B) across the panel and body with a grease pencil at the four points.
  12. Remove the front fixed glass panel.
  13. Apply a light coat of glass primer along the edge of the front fixed glass panel (A) and the glass front gap seal (B) as shown in illustration, then let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to the panel, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the panel properly, causing a leak after the panel is installed. Do not allow water, dust, and abrasive materials to contact the primed surfaces.
  14. Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
  15. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown in illustration.
  16. Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) along the edge of the front fixed glass panel (B)and the glass front gap seal (C) as shown or along the original adhesive path on the housing: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
  17. Hold the front fixed glass panel with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 11 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the panel until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
  18. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or shop towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the front fixed glass panel, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
  19. Install the new windshield upper molding (see «GLASS SEAL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-seal-replacement) ).
  20. After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the front fixed glass panel and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the panel dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after panel installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
  21. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging the seat.

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Scheme 67: Rear Fixed Glass Panel Replacement

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  1. Remove these items: Glass rear gap seal (see «GLASS REAR GAP SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-rear-gap-seal) ) Side seal, if required (see «SIDE SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__side-seal) ) AM/FM/XM antenna (see «AM/FM/XM ANTENNA REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/entertainment-systems/#audio-system) )
  2. If the original rear fixed glass panel will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the panel and body with a grease pencil.
  3. From inside the vehicle, remove the bolt securing the antenna bracket (A).
  4. Apply protective tape along the edge of the body and along the upper molding on the upper rear window. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at the corner area of the rear fixed glass panel. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
  5. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the rear fixed glass panel (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body. Carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire panel, and cut through the adhesive (D) bonding the antenna bracket (E). Cutting positions
  6. Carefully remove the rear fixed glass panel.
  7. With a knife, scrape the original adhesive urethane path and hot melt patches smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire rear fixed glass panel opening flange. Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding.
  8. Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact the clean surface.
  9. If the original rear fixed glass panel will be reinstalled, scrape off the original adhesive urethane path and hot melt patches from the panel with a putty knife. Clean the inside face and the edge of the panel with isopropyl alcohol where new adhesive will be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
  10. Scrape off the remaining double-sided adhesive tape from the antenna bracket, then clean the bracket surface with a sponge dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact the clean surface.
  11. Apply the new double-sided adhesive tape (A) to the antenna bracket (B). Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.031 in)
  12. Apply glass primer to the area of the rear fixed glass panel (A) where the antenna bracket (B) will be attached, then attach the bracket to the panel.
  13. Install the new glass rear gap seal to the rear fixed glass panel (see «GLASS REAR GAP SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__glass-rear-gap-seal) ), and if required, install the new side seal (see «SIDE SEAL»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/sun-rooft-topconvertible-top/#body-panoramic-glass-roof__side-seal) ).
  14. Set the rear fixed glass panel (A) in the opening as shown in illustration. Make alignment marks (B) across the panel and body with a grease pencil at the four points.
  15. Remove the rear fixed glass panel.
  16. Apply a light coat of glass primer along the edge of the rear fixed glass panel (A) as shown in illustration, then let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to the panel, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the panel properly, causing a leak after the panel is installed. Do not allow water, dust, and abrasive materials to contact the primed surfaces.
  17. Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
  18. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown in illustration.
  19. Pack adhesive into the cartridge without air pockets to ensure continuous delivery. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) along the edge of the rear fixed glass panel (B) as shown or along the original adhesive path on the housing: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
  20. Hold the rear fixed glass panel with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 14 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the panel until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
  21. Scrape or wipe the excess adhesive off with a putty knife or shop towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the rear fixed glass panel, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
  22. Reinstall the bolt securing the antenna bracket.
  23. Reinstall the AM/FM/XM antenna (see «AM/FM/XM ANTENNA REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/entertainment-systems/#audio-system) ).
  24. After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the rear fixed glass panel and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the panel dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after panel installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
  25. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads.

Upper Rear Window Replacement

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the upper rear window defogger grid lines, the window antenna grid lines, or the terminals.

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Scheme 77: Upper Rear Window Replacement

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  1. Remove these items: Tailgate upper trim (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-tailgate-area) ) Tailgate side trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-tailgate-area) ) Tailgate lower trim panel (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - TAILGATE AREA»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-tailgate-area) ) Tailgate spoiler (see «C-PILLAR OUTER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__c-pillar-outer-trim-replacement) )
  2. Remove the upper molding (A) from the edge of the upper rear window (B). If necessary, cut off the upper molding with a utility knife.
  3. Disconnect the upper rear window defogger terminals (A).
  4. If the original upper rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the window and the body with a grease pencil.
  5. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the upper rear window. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
  6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the upper rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire upper rear window. Cutting positions
  7. Carefully remove the upper rear window.
  8. Scrape smooth the original adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire upper rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the fasteners from the body.
  9. Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact on the clean surface.
  10. If you are reinstalling the original upper rear window, scrape off all of original adhesive, the spacers, the fasteners, and the rubber dams from the upper rear window with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the upper rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
  11. Apply glass primer to the edge of the upper rear window (A) where the upper molding (B) will be attached as shown in illustration. Attach the upper molding with adhesive tape to the lower edge of the upper rear window: Be careful not to touch the window where the adhesive will be applied. Make sure the upper molding line up with the alignment mark (C). If necessary, cut off the excess upper molding.
  12. Apply glass primer to the spacers (C) and the fasteners (D) mounting areas on the upper rear window (E), and let it dry. Attach the rubber dam A, the rubber dams B, and the spacers with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the upper rear window as shown in illustration: Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied. Make sure the rubber dam A, the rubber dams B, the spacers, and the fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F). If necessary, cut off the excess rubber dams.
  13. Attach the fasteners with the adhesive tape to the tailgate as shown in illustration.
  14. Set the upper rear window (A) in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (B) across the upper rear window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Be careful not to touch the upper rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
  15. Remove the upper rear window.
  16. Apply a light coat of glass primer to the upper rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown in illustration, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the corner areas of the upper rear window using the printed dots (C) on the upper rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the upper rear window, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the upper rear window properly, causing a leak after the upper rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
  17. Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
  18. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown in illustration.
  19. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) to the upper rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown in illustration: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the upper rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
  20. Hold the upper rear window with suction cups over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 14 , and set it down on adhesive. Lightly push on the upper rear window until its edges are fully seated on adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
  21. Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
  22. Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the upper rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the upper rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after upper rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
  23. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

Lower Rear Window Replacement

Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the lower rear window defogger grid lines, the window antenna grid lines, or the terminals.

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Scheme 89: Lower Rear Window Replacement

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  1. Remove these items: Tailgate lower trim (see «TAILGATE LOWER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__tailgate-lower-trim-replacement) ) Tailgate spoiler (see «C-PILLAR OUTER TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/zdx/i-2009-2013/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__c-pillar-outer-trim-replacement) )
  2. Disconnect the lower rear window defogger terminals (A).
  3. Remove the glass molding (A) from the edge of the lower rear window (B). If necessary, cut off the upper molding with a utility knife.
  4. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the tailgate. Make holes with an awl through the upper adhesive from inside the vehicle from both sides of the lower rear window.
  5. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the lower rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) in the upper area and the corners, but not the lower area. Cutting positions
  6. Carefully remove the lower rear window.
  7. Scrape smooth the original adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire lower rear window opening flange. Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding.
  8. Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, do not allow oil, grease, and water to contact on the clean surface.
  9. If you are reinstalling the old window, scrape off all of original adhesive, the clips, and the rubber dam from the lower rear window with a putty knife. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the lower rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
  10. Apply glass primer to the clip mounting areas on the lower rear window (A), and let it dry. Attach the clips (B, C) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the lower rear window as shown in illustration. Be careful not to touch the lower rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
  11. Apply glass primer to the edge of the lower rear window (A) where the glass molding will be attached as shown in illustration. Attach the new glass molding (B) and the rubber dam (C) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the lower rear window. Be careful not to touch the lower rear window where the adhesive will be applied. Make sure the rubber dam lines up with the alignment mark (D).
  12. Apply a light coat of glass primer to the lower rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dam (B) and the glass molding (C) as shown in illustration, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the corner areas of the lower rear window using the printed dots (D) on the lower rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the lower rear window, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the lower rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
  13. Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
  14. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown in illustration.
  15. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) around the lower rear window (B) along the edge of the glass molding (C) as shown in illustration: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the lower rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
  16. Hold the lower rear window with suction cups over the opening, align the clips, and set it down on adhesive. Lightly push on the lower rear window until its edges are fully seated on adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until adhesive is dry.
  17. Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
  18. Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the lower rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the lower rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after lower rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
  19. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).