Starting System (4-cyl) Acura TSX II

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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

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Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100 °F (15-38 °C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the ECM/PCM. Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
2. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 3. NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems-4-cyl) ).
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system-4-cyl__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
6. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model) or the shift lever in P or N (A/T model), turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Go to step 8.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
9. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion, then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12 . If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch Damaged flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or torque converter ring gear (A/T model)
10. Make sure the shift lever is in neutral (M/T model) or P or N (A/T model), then disconnect the engine wire harness 1P connector (A). Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the starter subharness 1P connector (B). Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Check the starter subharness. If the wire is OK, replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ) as necessary.
11. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 15 . Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the ignition switch. Check for an open or short in the BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the starter. Check for an open or short in the RED/GRN wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the clutch interlock switch (M/T model). Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire, BLU/WHT wire and connectors between the starter cut relay and the transmission range switch (A/T model). Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the clutch interlock switch and body ground G302 (M/T model). Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101 (A/T model). Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «IGNITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch-4-cyl__ignition-switch-test) ). Check for faulty clutch interlock switch (M/T model) (see «CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (A/T model) (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission-4-cyl) ). Check for a faulty starter cut relay (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/body-electrical/#relays-4-cyl__power-relay-test) ).
12. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
13. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A? YES -Go to step 14 . NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), or remove and disassemble (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ) it, and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty over running clutch
14. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
15. Select ECM/PCM reset (see «ECM/PCM RESET»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems-4-cyl__ecmpcm-reset) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A).
2. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table: If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch (B) (see «CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ), and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(ref-475402-S19490623162012052300000) ). If OK, connect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector.

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A).
2. Loosen the locknut (B), then remove the clutch interlock switch (C).
3. Install the clutch interlock switch, and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(ref-475402-S19490623162012052300000) ).

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ).
2. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
3. Make a connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
4. Connect the battery as shown, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is continuity, it is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the body, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is no continuity, it is working properly.
6. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor runs.
7. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly.

Specification

Electric Current: 80 A or less

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1. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery-4-cyl) ).
2. Remove the intake manifold (see «REMOVAL»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/exhaust/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system-4-cyl) ).
3. Disconnect the positive starter cable (A) from the B terminal, and the S terminal connector (B).
4. Remove the harness clamp (C).
5. Remove the two bolts (A) holding the starter, then remove the starter.

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1. Install the starter, then tighten the two bolts (A).
2. Install the harness clamp (A).
3. Connect the positive starter cable (B) to the B terminal, and the S terminal connector (C). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
4. Install the intake manifold (see «INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/exhaust/#intake-manifold-and-exhaust-system-4-cyl) ).
5. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery-4-cyl) ).
6. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.

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Note. Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tsx/ii-2008-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system-4-cyl) ).
2. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
3. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 4, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
4. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in)
5. Measure the commutator (A) runout: If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
6. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.0157-0.0197 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
7. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any of the segments, replace the armature.
8. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
9. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
10. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 11.1-11.5 mm (0.437-0.453 in) Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.169 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
11. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and the (-) brush holders (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection
12. Check the planetary gears (A), the armature shaft gear (B), and the internal ring gear (C). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
13. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) counterclockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover set.
14. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft clockwise. The gear shaft should turn freely. If the gear shaft does not turn freely, replace the gear cover set.
15. If the drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the idler gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) to see if the drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly
16. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
17. While squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs (D, E, and F).
18. Install the armature and the brush holder assembly into the housing. NOTE: Make sure the armature stays in the holder.

See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• IGNITION SWITCH TEST
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• ENGINE DOES NOT START WITH THE IMMOBILIZER KEY
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• ECM/PCM RESET
• BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION
• REMOVAL
• STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING