Windshield Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Glass adhesive can be efficiently cut with a commercially available auto glass tool. See the tool manufacturer's instructions for details.
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- Remove these items: Cowl cover (see «FRONT BULKHEAD BRACE COVER REPLACEMENT»(ref-512361-S00272747032012103100000) ) Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-512399-S18482545452012103100000) ) A-pillar trims, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(ref-512391-S14095869762012103100000) ) Roof moldings, both sides (see «ROOF MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(ref-512361-S37794332892012103100000) )
- Remove the windshield molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the windshield molding with a utility knife.
- If the original windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil.
- Pull down the front area of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(ref-512391-S27399513372012103100000) ). NOTE: Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
- Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and the body. Make a hole with an awl through the rubber dam and the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
- With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and the dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and the adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
- Carefully remove the windshield.
- Scrape smooth the original adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dams from the body.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the clean surface.
- If you are reinstalling the original windshield, scrape off the original adhesive, the upper clips, and the rubber dams with a putty knife from the windshield. Clean the bonding surfaces on the inside face and the edge of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- Before installing a new windshield, attach a new rearview mirror harness cover base to the inside face of the windshield (see «REARVIEW MIRROR HARNESS COVER BASE REPLACEMENT»(ref-512400-S00311827222012103100000) ).
- Apply glass primer to the upper clip mounting areas on the windshield (C), and let it dry. Remove the adhesive backing and attach the rubber dam A, B and the upper clips (D) to the inside of the windshield as shown: Make sure the rubber dams and the upper clips line up with the alignment marks (E). Make sure the index tabs (F) on the clips face the left side. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach rubber dam C with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield (A) as shown, using the edge of the black ceramic-coated area (B) as a guide: Make sure the rubber dam lines up with the alignment marks (D). Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach the windshield molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the windshield (C). Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach the molding upper seal (A) with adhesive tape to the inside surface of the windshield molding (B) as shown.
- Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown: Make sure the pins (B) of both upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Remove the windshield.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the windshield (A) along the edge of the windshield molding (B) and the rubber dams (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with a gauze or a cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any original adhesive on the flange. Cover on the dashboard before applying the primer. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) on the windshield (B) along the edge of the windshield molding (C) and the rubber dams (D) as shown: Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the windshield over the opening with suction cups, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 16 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).
Rearview Mirror Harness Cover Base Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands.
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- Remove the rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(ref-512399-S18482545452012103100000) ).
- Carefully cut through the adhesive tape under the rearview mirror harness cover base with a piano wire, then remove the base.
- Scrape off all of the original the adhesive tape with a putty knife from the windshield. Clean the bonding surface on the inside face of the windshield with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease.
- If you are reinstalling the original rearview mirror harness cover base (A), scrape off all of the original adhesive tape with a putty knife from the base. Clean the base surface with isopropyl alcohol. Apply primer to the base as shown, and attach the adhesive tape (B) to the base. Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.031 in) Width 7 mm (0.28 in)
- Before installing the rearview mirror harness cover base, apply primer to the area where the harness cover base will be applied to the inside face of the windshield. Let the primer dry at least 10 minutes, then attach it to the windshield within 12 hours.
- Attach the rearview mirror harness cover base (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the inside face of the windshield as shown, then press the adhesive areas into place securely.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts.
Rear Window Replacement
Note. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with a piano wire. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Use seat covers to avoid damaging any surfaces. Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines, the window antenna grid lines, or the terminals.
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- Remove these items: Trunk lid Rear door opening seal, as needed (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - DOOR AREAS»(ref-512391-S41820724892012103100000) ). Rear center seat belt lower anchor (see «REAR CENTER SEAT BELT AND REAR SEAT BELT BUCKLES»(ref-512401-S11252300082012103100000) ) Rear window molding (see «REAR WINDOW MOLDING REPLACEMENT»(ref-512361-S12182122672012103100000) )
- Disconnect the window antenna connectors (A) and the rear window defogger terminals (B).
- If the original rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the rear window and the body with a grease pencil.
- Pull down the rear area of the headliner (A) by detaching the clips. NOTE: Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
- Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. Make a hole with an awl through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at a corner of the rear window. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
- Remove the lower rubber dam (A) from the lower edge of the rear window (B). If necessary cut the rubber dam with a utility knife.
- With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire rear window. Cutting positions
- Carefully remove the rear window.
- Scrape smooth the original adhesive with a knife until there is a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the fasteners from the body.
- Clean the body bonding surface with a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on the surface.
- If you are reinstalling the original windshield, scrape off all of the original adhesive, the fasteners, and the rubber dams with a putty knife from the rear window. Clean the bonding surfaces on inside face and the edge of the rear window with isopropyl alcohol. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil, and grease.
- Apply glass primer to the edge of the rear window (A) where the lower rubber dam (B) will be attached as shown. Attach the lower rubber dam with adhesive tape (C) to the lower edge of the rear window: After installing the rubber dam, cut the ends (D) of the rubber dam as shown. Be careful not to touch the windshield where the adhesive will be applied.
- Apply glass primer to the upper clip mounting areas on the rear window, and let it dry. Attach the upper rubber dam (A), the side rubber dams (B), the upper clips (C), and the fasteners (D) with the adhesive tape to the inside face of the rear window (E) as shown: Make sure the upper rubber dam, the side rubber dams, the upper clips, and the fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F). If necessary, cut the excess rubber dams. Make sure the index tabs (G) on the clips face the right side. Be careful not to touch the rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
- Attach the fasteners with the adhesive tape to the rear window opening flange (A) of the body on both sides.
- Set the rear window in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the rear window and the body with a grease pencil at the four points shown: Make sure the pins (B) of both upper clips (C) contact with the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the rear window where the adhesive will be applied.
- Remove the rear window.
- Apply a light coat of glass primer to the rear window (A) along the edge of the rubber dams (B) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply the glass primer to the corner areas of the rear window using the printed dots (C) on the rear window as a guide. Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
- Carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint or metal around the flange where the new adhesive will be applied. Let the body primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer applicators. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
- Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
- Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a continuous bead of the adhesive (A) to the rear window (B) along the edge of the rubber dams (C) as shown: Use the printed dots (D) as a guide when you apply the adhesive to the corners of the rear window. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
- Hold the rear window over the opening with suction cups, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 15 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. NOTE: Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
- Remove the excess adhesive with a putty knife or a shop towel dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
- Wait at least an hour for the adhesive to dry, then spray water over the rear window and check for leaks. Mark the leaking areas, let the rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after rear window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
- Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the client not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).