Starting System Acura TL IV рестайлинг

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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

WITHOUT KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM

WITH KEYLESS ACCESS SYSTEM

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Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857.

Without Keyless Access System

Note. Air temperature must be within 59- 100°F (15- 38°C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).
2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
3. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES - The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 4. NO - If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE&RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__how-to-use-the-hds-honda) ).
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
8. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 9.
9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 16 . NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 13 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key after 15 seconds, replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , or remove and «disassemble»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) it, and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction. Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Damaged torque converter ring gear.
11. Make sure the shift lever is in P or N, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) or remove and «disassemble»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) it as necessary.
12. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 16 . A blown STS (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder located below the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1, the ignition switch, and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 1. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the YEL wire, LT GRN wire, and connectors between the ignition switch and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 4, and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 4. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 3, starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 3, and the transmission range switch. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101. Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «IGNITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch) ). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Check for faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
13. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
14. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) or remove and «disassemble»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) it, and check for these problems: • Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
15. Remove the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
16. Select PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__hds-clear-command) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
17. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).

Special Tools Required

Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*

*: Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857.

With Keyless Access System

Note. Air temperature must be within 59- 100°F (15- 38°C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the ECM/PCM. Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).
2. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery as shown. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
3. Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES - The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 4. NO - If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest. If the display indicates CHARGE&RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
4. Connect the HDS to the DLC (see «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__how-to-use-the-hds-honda) ).
5. Press the engine start/stop button to select the ON mode.
6. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
7. Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
8. Set the parking brake, then with the clutch pedal pressed (M/T model) or the shift lever in P or N (A/T model), press the brake pedal, then press the engine start/stop button to select START mode to crank the engine. NOTE: The auto-start function cranks the engine until it starts, or for 15 seconds if the engine does not start. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 17 . NO - Go to step 9.
9. Press the engine start/stop button to select the OFF mode.
10. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 17 . NO - Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: • If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 11. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 14 . If the starter does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear (M/T model) or the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) when you release the key, replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , or remove and disassemble it; ( «M/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), ( «A/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction. Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Damaged flywheel ring gear (M/T model), torque converter ring gear (A/T model)
11. Make sure the shift lever is in neutral (M/T model) or P or N (A/T model), then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. M/T model A/T model Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Go to step 12 (M/T model) / go to step 13 (A/T model). NO - Replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , or remove and disassemble it; ( «M/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), ( «A/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), as necessary.
12. M/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 17 . A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 2, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and the ECM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 1. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the ECM, starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 4. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between the clutch pedal position switch A, starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 3, the power control unit, and the ECM. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 3 and body ground G301. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the clutch pedal position switch A and body ground G301. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 4 and the +B cut relay. Check for an open or short in the GRY wire and connectors between starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 4 and the + B cut relay. Check for faulty «clutch pedal position switch A»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) . Check for faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ) Check for faulty + B cut relay (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
13. A/T model: Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 17 . A blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse and No. 13 (15 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1, the power control unit, and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the BRN wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 1 and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 1. Check for an open or short in the WHT wire, BLK/WHT wire, and connectors between starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 2 and the starter. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the PCM, starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 4, and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 4. Check for an open or short in the PNK wire, BLU/WHT wire, and connectors between the transmission range switch, starter cut relay 1 socket terminal No. 3, and starter cut relay 2 socket terminal No. 3. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and body ground G101. Check for an open or short in the LT GRN wire and connectors between the power control unit, the brake pedal position switch, and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the RED wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for an open or short in the ORN wire and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the PCM. Check for an open or short in the RED wire, BLU wire, and connectors between the brake pedal position switch and the under-hood fuse/relay box. Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Check for faulty starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2. (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ) Check for a faulty brake pedal position switch (see «BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exterior-lights/#exterior-lights) ).
14. Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
15. Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.0 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 375 A? YES - Go to step 16. NO - Replace the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , or remove and disassemble it; ( «M/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), ( «A/T model»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for these problems: • Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty overrunning clutch
16. Remove the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel ring gear (M/T model), the torque converter ring gear (A/T model) for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
17. Select ECM/PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__hds-clear-command) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
18. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).

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1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch A connector (A).
2. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table: If the continuity is not as specified, replace «clutch pedal position switch A»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH A, AND CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH B ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#mt-clutch__clutch-pedal-clutch-pedal-position-switch) ). If OK, connect the clutch pedal position switch A connector.

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1. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch A connector (B).
2. Loosen the locknut (C), then remove clutch pedal position switch A.
3. Install clutch pedal position switch A and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH A, AND CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH B ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#mt-clutch__clutch-pedal-clutch-pedal-position-switch) ).

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1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).
2. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
3. Remove the air intake duct splash separator (see step 4 «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
4. Remove the harness clamp (A), then disconnect the positive starter cable (B), the motor wire (C), and the S terminal connector (D). M/T model A/T model
5. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity: If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
6. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity: If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
7. Connect the wire and the connector in the reverse order of removal.
8. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «BATTERY TERMINAL DISCONNECTION AND RECONNECTION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
9. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).

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1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).
2. Remove the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .
3. Disconnect the motor wire from the M terminal (see step 4 ).
4. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
5. Make the connections for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
6. Connect the battery as shown. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the M terminal. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
7. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
8. Disconnect the battery from the starter body as shown. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
9. Reconnect the motor wire to the M terminal.
10. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor runs.
11. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 80 A (M/T model) 90 A (A/T model) or less
12. Install the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .
13. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).

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1. Remove the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).
2. Do the battery removal procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
3. Remove the battery base (see step 7 «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
4. Remove the air intake duct splash separator (see step 4 «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-removal) ).
5. Remove the harness clamp (A). M/T model A/T model
6. Disconnect the positive starter cable (B) and the S terminal connector (C).
7. A/T model: Remove the lower radiator hose bracket (D) and the dipstick (E).
8. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

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1. Install the starter, then tighten the bolts (A). NOTE: Always use a new gasket (A/T model). M/T model A/T model
2. A/T model: Install the lower radiator hose bracket (B) and the dipstick (C).
3. Connect the positive starter cable (D) and the S terminal connector (E). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
4. Install the harness clamp (F).
5. Install the air intake duct splash separator (see step 68 «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
6. Install the battery base (see step 64 «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/mechanical/#engine-assembly__engine-installation) ).
7. Do the battery installation procedure (see «BATTERY REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
8. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.
9. Install the engine compartment covers (see «ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__engine-compartment-cover-replacement) ).

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Note. Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.

Brush Holder Removal

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1. Remove the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .
2. Disconnect the motor wire from the «M terminal»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) , and remove the end cover.
3. Remove the brush holder (A). Armature Inspection and Test
4. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
5. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 6, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
6. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0- 28.1 mm (1.102- 1.106 in) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in)
7. Measure the commutator (A) runout: If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
8. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.4- 0.5 mm (0.016- 0.020 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
9. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
10. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
11. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
12. Remove the brush holder cap (A), then remove the brushes (B).
13. Measure the brush length. Shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 15.8- 16.2 mm (0.622- 0.638 in) Service Limit: 11.0 mm (0.433 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
14. Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and the (-) brushes (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
15. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
16. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. If it does not lock in either direction, or it locks in both directions, replace it.
17. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear to see if the teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly
18. Install the armature in the housing.
19. Set the brushes with the brush spring in the brush holder (A).
20. Place the brush holder assembly on the armature, then move the brush holder down to the armature. NOTE: Keep the brush holder on the armature so the brushes do not come out of the brush holder.
21. Install the end cover (A) to retain the brush holder (B).
22. Install the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .

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Note. Refer to the Exploded View if needed during this procedure.

Brush Holder Removal

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1. Remove the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .
2. Disconnect the motor wire from M terminal (see step 4 ), and remove the end cover.
3. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder (A) about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place.
4. Remove the brush holder assembly. Armature Inspection and Test
5. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
6. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 7 , or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
7. Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.9- 29.0 mm (1.138- 1.142 in) Service Limit: 28.0 mm (1.102 in)
8. Measure the commutator (A) runout: If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
9. Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.50- 0.90 mm (0.0197- 0.0354 in) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.0079 in)
10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
11. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
12. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
13. Slide the overrunning clutch (A) along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
14. Hold the overrunning clutch (A), and turn the drive gear (B) in the direction shown to make sure it turns freely. Also make sure the drive gear locks in the opposite direction. If it does not lock, replace the overrunning clutch assembly.
15. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the idler gear and the torque converter ring gear. Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Brush Inspection
16. Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 15.0- 16.0 mm (0.591- 0.630 in) Service Limit: 9.0 mm (0.354 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
17. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holders (A) and the (-) brush holders (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Spring Inspection
18. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If it is not within the standard, replace the brush holder assembly. Spring Tension Standard (New): 22.3- 27.1 N (2.27- 2.76 kgf, 5.00- 6.08 lbf) Planetary Gear Inspection
19. Check the planetary gears (A), the armature shaft gear (B), and the internal ring gear (C). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Starter Reassembly
20. Install the armature housing (A) and the armature (B) by aligning the slotted point (C) to the projection (D).
21. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush on the brush holder about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold it in place. NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and the each brush, and smoothly turn the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
22. Install the brush holder assembly. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push each brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
23. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder.
24. Install the «starter»(/acura/tl/iv-2011-2014/remont/starter/#starting-system) .

See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• IGNITION SWITCH TEST
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• ENGINE DOES NOT START WITH THE IMMOBILIZER KEY
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• WITH SH-AWD
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING
• BRAKE PEDAL POSITION SWITCH TEST
• SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER REPLACEMENT
• HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)
• DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• HDS CLEAR COMMAND
• CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH A, AND CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH B ADJUSTMENT
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• starter
• binding