Engine Block Acura TL IV

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1. Remove the oil pump (see «REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )
2. Remove the baffle plate (see step 10 )
3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between the connecting rod (B) and the crankshaft (C) Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15-0.35 mm (0.006-0.014 in) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in)
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod and recheck If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator, the dial reading should not exceed the service limit Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in)
6. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )

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1. Remove the main bearing caps and the bearing halves (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal NOTE: If the engine is still in the vehicle when you bolt the main cap down to check the clearance, the weight of the crankshaft and the drive plate will flatten the plastigage further than just the torque on the cap bolt and give you an incorrect reading For an accurate reading, support the crank with a jack under the counterweights, and check only one bearing at a time
4. Reinstall the bearings and the caps, then tighten the bearing cap bolts to 74 N m (7.5 kgf m, 54 lbf ft), and the bearing cap side bolts to 49 N m (5.0 kgf m, 36 lbf ft) in the proper sequence (see step 23 ) NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection
5. Remove the cap and the bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.019-0.045 mm (0.0007-0.0018 in) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.0020 in)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance again If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )

Main Bearing Selection

Block Bore Code Location

Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the engine block as a code for the size of each of the four main journal bores

Use them, and the numbers stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size), to choose the correct bearings If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper Clean them only with solvent or detergent

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1. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel
3. Place a strip of plastigage across the rod journal
4. Reinstall the bearing half and the cap, and tighten the bolts NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection Tightening Torque. 20 N.m (2.0 kgf m, 14 lbf ft) + 90 °
5. Remove the rod cap and the bearing half and measure the widest part of the plastigage Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.020-0.044 mm (0.0008-0.0017 in) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.0020 in)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, then install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below that one), and check clearance again If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )

Connecting Rod Bearing Selection

Each connecting rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in) increments) depending on the size of its big end bore

It's then stamped with a number or bar (1,2,3, or 4/I, II, III, or Mil) indicating the range You may find any combination of 1,2,3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII in any engine

Big End Bore Size

J35Z6 engine 58.0 mm (2.28 in)

J37A4 engine. 60.0 mm (2.36 in)

Inspect the connecting rod for cracks and heat damage

Big End Bore Code Locations

Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code for the size of the big end Use them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank (codes for rod journal size), to choose the correct bearings If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper Clean them only with solvent or detergent

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1. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 6
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift
3. Drain the engine oil (see «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )
4. Remove the splash shield (see «FRONT SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__front-splash-shield-replacement) )
5. Remove exhaust pipe A (see step 35 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) )
6. Remove the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC) bracket
7. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor cover (A) and the bolt (B), then disconnect the CKP sensor connector (C)
8. Remove the torque converter cover (A) and the four bolts (B) securing the transmission
9. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan
10. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the engine block in the places shown
11. Remove the oil pan

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1. Remove the engine/transmission (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) )
2. Remove the transmission: Manual transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transmission__transmission-removal) ) Automatic transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )
3. M/T model: Remove the flywheel (see «ENGINE SIDE»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#clutch-system__engine-side) step 16. )
4. A/T model: Remove the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )
5. Remove the cylinder heads J35Z6 engines (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6__cylinder-head-removal) ) J37A4 engine (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4__cylinder-head-removal) )
6. Remove the timing belt drive pulley from the crankshaft J35Z6 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6) ) J37A4 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4) )
7. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
8. Remove the engine block end cover
9. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly
10. Remove the oil strainer (A), the baffle plate (B), and the oil pump (C)
11. J35Z6 engine If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of any cylinder, remove it with a ridge reamer (A) Follow the reamer manufacturer's instructions If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the piston as it's pushed out
12. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the crank pin at bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder Remove the piston/connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod Take care not to damage the oil jets, the crank pin, or the cylinder with the connecting rod
13. Remove the bearing from the cap Keep all caps/bearings in order
14. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps
15. After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the cap on the rod
16. To avoid confusion during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number
17. Loosen the bearing cap bolts and the bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time, repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened
18. Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and the bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove the bearing caps (C)
19. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the crankshaft position (CKP) pulse plate
20. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
21. Reinstall the main caps and the bearings on the engine block in the proper order

Crankshaft Inspection

Out-of-Round and Taper

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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate from the crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
3. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush
4. Check the keyway slot and the threaded holes for damage
5. Measure the out-of-round at the middle of each rod and the main journal in two places The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in) max Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in)
6. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in) max Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in)
7. Place the V-blocks on a flat surface
8. Check the total runout with the crankshaft supported on V-blocks
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.) max Service Limit: 0.030 mm (0.0012 in)

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1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Check the pistons for distortion or cracks
3. Measure the piston skirt diameter at a point 16.0 mm (0.63 m) from the bottom of the skirt J35Z6 engine Piston Skirt Diameter Standard (New): 88 975-88 985 mm (3.5029-3.5033 in) Service Limit: 88.965 mm (3.5026 in) Oversize Piston Skirt Diameter 0.25: 89.225 - 89.235 mm (3.5128 - 3.5132 in) J37A4 engine Piston Skirt Diameter Standard (New): 89 983-89 996 mm (3 5426-3 5431 in) Service Limit: 89 975 mm (3 5423 in)
4. Measure the wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown
5. J35Z6 engine If the measurements in any cylinder are beyond the oversize bore service limit, replace the engine block If the engine block has to be rebored, refer to step 8 after reboring J37A4 engine If the measurements in any cylinder are beyond the service limit, replace the engine block The J37A4 engine block can not be rebored J35Z6 engine Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): 89.000-89.015 mm (3.5039-3.5045 in) Service Limit: 89.065 mm (3.5065 in) Oversize 0.25: 89.250-89.265 mm (3.5138-3.5144 in) Reboring Limit 0.25 mm (0.01 in) Bore Taper Limit (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.015 mm (0.00059 in) J37A4 engine Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): 90.000-90.015 mm (3.5433-3.5439 in) Service Limit: 90.065 mm (3.5459 in) Bore Taper Limit (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.015 mm (0.00059 in)
6. J35Z6 engine Hone any scored or scratched cylinder bores (see «CYLINDER BORE HONING»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ) NOTE: The J37A4 engine can not be honed If the cylinders are damaged, the engine block must be replaced
7. Check the top of the engine block for warpage Measure along the edges and across the center as shown Engine Block Warpage Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.003 in) max. Service Limit: 0.10 mm (0.004 in)
8. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter If the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and the cylinder bore for excessive wear J35Z6 engine Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance Standard (New): 0 015-0 040.mm (0.0006-0.0016 in.) Service Limit: 0 08 mm (0.003 in) J37A4 engine Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance Standard (New): 0.004-0.032 mm (0.00016-0.0013 in) Service Limit: 0.070 mm (0.0027 in)

J35Z6 engine

Note. The J37A4 engine can not be honed If the cylinders are damaged, the engine block must be replaced

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1. Measure the cylinder bores (see step 4 ) If the engine block is to be reused, hone the cylinders and remeasure the bores Only scored or scratched cylinder bores must be honed
2. Remove the oil jets (see «OIL FILTER FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )
3. Hone the cylinder bores with honing oil and a fine (400 grit) stone in a 60 degree Crosshatch pattern NOTE: Use only a rigid hone with 400 grit or finer stone, such as Sunnen, Ammco, or equivalent Do not use stones that are worn or broken
4. When honing is complete, thoroughly clean the engine block of all metal particles Wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water, then dry and oil them immediately to prevent rusting NOTE: Never use solvent, it will only redistribute the grit on the cylinder walls
5. If scoring or scratches are still present in the cylinder bores after honing to the service limit, rebore the engine block Some light vertical scoring and scratching is acceptable if it is not deep enough to catch your fingernail and does not run the full length of the bore
6. Install the oil jets (see «OIL FILTER FEED PIPE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )

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1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A) and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores(B) NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves
3. Remove the snap rings (A) from both sides of each piston Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost Wear eye protection
4. Separately heat each piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin

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Inspection

Note. Inspect the piston, the piston pin, and the connecting rod when they are at room temperature

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1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin Piston Pin Diameter Standard (New): 21.962-21.965 mm (0.8646-0.8648 in) Service Limit: 21.954 mm (0.8643 in)
2. Zero the dial indicator to the piston pin diameter
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the piston pin hole diameter on the piston J35Z6 engine Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance Standard (New): -0.005 to +0.001 mm (-0.00020 to +0.00004 in.) Service Limit: 0.004 mm (0.00016 in) J37A4 engine Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance Standard (New): -0.005 to +0.003 mm (-0.00020 to +0.00012 in) Service Limit: 0.004 mm (0.00016 in.)
4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance Piston Pin-to-Connecting Rod Clearance Standard (New): 0.005-0.014 mm (0.00020-0.00055 in) Service Limit: 0.019 mm (0.00075 in)

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1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A) only on one side
2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil
3. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C)
4. Assemble the piston (A) and the connecting rod (B) with the embossed marks (C) on the same side Install the piston pin (D) NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the piston pin
5. Install the remaining snap ring
6. Reassemble the other pistons the same way

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1. Remove the pistons from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston rings (B)
3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner with a blade to fit the piston grooves File down the blade, if necessary The top ring and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in) wide, and the oil ring groove is 2.0 mm (0.08 in) wide Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tool NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new rings yet
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.6-0.8 in) from the bottom
5. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits (see step 4 )
6. J35Z6 engine If the bore is over the service limit, the engine block must be rebored J35Z6 engine Piston Ring End-Gap Top Ring Standard (New): 0.20-0.35 mm (0.008-0.014 in) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 in) Second Ring Standard (New): 0.40-0.55 mm (0.016-0.022 in) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in) Oil Ring Standard (New): 0.20-0.70 mm (0.008-0.028 in) Service Limit: 0.80 mm (0.031 in) J37A4 engine Piston Ring End-Gap Top Ring Standard (New): 0.30-0.40 mm (0.012-0.016 in) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 in) Second Ring Standard (New): 0.40-0.55 mm (0.016-0.022 in) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in) Oil Ring Standard (New): 0.20-0.35 mm (0.008-0.014 in) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in)
7. Install the rings as shown The top ring (A) has a 1D mark (J35Z6 engine) or 1E mark (J37A4 engine) and the second ring (B) has a 2X mark (J35Z6 engine) or 2E mark (J37A4 engine) The manufacturing marks (C) must be facing upward
8. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearance J35Z6 engine Top Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.055-0.080 mm (0.0022-0.0031 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in) Second Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.030-0.055 mm (0.0012-0.0022 in) Service Limit: 0.13 mm (0.005 in) J37A4 engine Top Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.055-0.085 mm (0.0022-0.0033 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in) Second Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.030-0.060 mm (0.0012-0.0024 in) Service Limit: 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
9. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind
10. Position the ring end gaps as shown

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Crankshaft and Piston Installation

Special Tools Required

1. Driver handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCA0200

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1. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and the connecting rods
4. Apply new engine oil to the inside of the main bearings and the rod bearings
5. Install the CKP pulse plate to the crankshaft (see «CKP PULSE PLATE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
6. Lower the crankshaft (A) into the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate
7. Apply new engine oil to the side with the thrust washer groove Install the thrust washers (A) in the No 3 journal
8. Install the bearings (A) and the bearing caps (B) with the arrow (C) facing the timing belt side of the engine block
9. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges, then loosely install the bearing cap bolts (D) and the bearing cap side bolts (E)
10. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder you are installing the piston in
11. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore
12. Attach the ring compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly, and check that the bearing is securely in place
13. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the timing belt side of the engine block
14. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A) Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore
15. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place
16. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B
17. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter Difference in Diameter Specification 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in.)
18. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt
19. Install the bearing (B), then line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and the rod cap (C)
20. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges Tighten the bolts (D) to 20 N m (2.0 kgf m, 14 lbf ft)
21. Mark the connecting rod (A) and the bolt head (B) as shown
22. Tighten the bolt until the mark on the bolt head lines up with the mark on the connecting rod (turn the bolt 90 °) NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 16 of the procedure Do not loosen it back to the specified angle. Repeat step 10 to 22 for the remaining cylinders
23. Tighten the bearing cap bolts, and then the bearing cap side bolts to the specified torque in the sequence as shown Repeat the torque sequence again to ensure the bolts are properly torqued
24. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the engine block end cover mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes
25. Clean and dry the engine block end cover mating surfaces
26. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal
27. Using the driver handle, 15 x 135 L and the oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal until the oil seal driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover
28. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the engine block end cover and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket NOTE: Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket
29. Install the dowel pins (A), a new O-ring (B), and the engine block end cover (C) on the engine block NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the engine block end cover
30. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion
31. Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump (see step 3 on «INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )
32. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes
33. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces
34. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil pump and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket NOTE: Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket
35. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal, and apply new engine oil to the new O-ring (A)
36. Install the dowel pins (B), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft, and install the oil pump (C)
37. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion
38. Install the baffle plate (D), then install the oil strainer (E) with a new O-ring (F) NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pump
39. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly (A), with a new rocker arm oil control solenoid filter (B)
40. Install the oil pan (see «OIL PAN INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
41. Install the timing belt drive pulley to the crankshaft J35Z6 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6) ) J37A4 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4) )
42. Install the cylinder heads J35Z6 engine (see «CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6) ) J37A4 engine (see «CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4) )
43. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see «ENGINE SIDE»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#clutch-system__engine-side) step 18. )
44. A/T model: Install drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )
45. Install the transmission: Manual transmission (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transmission__transmission-installation) ) Automatic transmission (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )
46. Install the engine/transmission (see «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) )

Note. When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, run the engine at idle until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run it for about 15 minutes

Scheme 503

1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) )
2. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A) from the crankshaft NOTE: Be careful not to damage the journals and the CKP pulse plate
3. Install the CKP pulse plate in the reverse order of removal

Scheme 504

Scheme 505

Scheme 506

Scheme 507

Scheme 508

1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces
3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the oil pan mating surface of the engine block and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket NOTE: Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply the new liquid gasket
4. Install the oil pan on the engine block
5. Tighten the bolts in three steps In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N m (1 2 kgf m, 8 7 lbf ft) NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan
6. Tighten the four bolts (A) securing the transmission, then install the torque converter cover (B)
7. Connect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector (A), then install the CKP sensor cover (B) and the bolt (C)
8. Install the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC) bracket
9. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps
10. Install exhaust pipe A using new gaskets and new self-locking nuts (see step 37 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) )
11. Install the splash shield (see «FRONT SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/exterior-body-panels/#fenderwell__front-splash-shield-replacement) )
12. Refill the engine with the recommended engine oil (see step 4 on «ENGINE OIL REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) )

Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

Oil seal driver, 64 mm 070AD-RCAA100

Scheme 509

1. Remove the timing belt drive pulley: J35Z6 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6) ) J37A4 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4) )
2. Remove the pulley end crankshaft oil seal
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing
4. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal
5. Using the oil seal driver, 64 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal until the oil seal driver bottoms against the oil pump When the seal is in place, clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted
6. Install the timing belt drive pulley

1. J35Z6 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j35z6) )
2. J37A4 engine (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head-j37a4) )

Transmission End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

1. Driver handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCA0200

Scheme 510

1. M/T model: Remove the transmision (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transmission__transmission-removal) ), and the flywheel (see «ENGINE SIDE»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#clutch-system__engine-side) step 16).
2. A/T model: Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) and the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )
3. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal
4. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing
5. Apply a light coat of new engine oil to the lip of the crankshaft oil seal
6. Using the driver handle, 15 x 135L, and the oil seal driver attachment, 106 mm, drive in the new crankshaft oil seal until the oil seal driver attachment bottoms against the engine block end cover Align the hole in the oil seal driver attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
7. Clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted
8. M/T model: Install the flywheel (see «ENGINE SIDE»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#clutch-system__engine-side) step 18). Install the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/manual-trans/#manual-transmission__transmission-installation) ).
9. A/T model: Install the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iv-2008-2011/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) )

Sealing Bolt Installation

Note. When installing the sealing bolt (A), always use a new washer (B)

Scheme 511

See also:
• REMOVAL
• FRONT SPLASH SHIELD REPLACEMENT
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• ENGINE SIDE
• CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
• CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
• TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT
• TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT
• TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL