Starting System Acura TL III рестайлинг

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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

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Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Air temperature must be between 59 and 100°F (15 and 38°C) during this procedure. After the inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
2. Hook up this equipment: Ammeter, 0-400 A Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)
3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the ECM/PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (PART 2)»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system) ).
6. Select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
7. Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 12 . NO -Go to step 8.
8. Check the battery condition. Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 12 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 9. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 10 . If the starter will not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
9. Make sure the shift lever is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/ WHT wire (A) from the solenoid S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid S terminal. M/T A/T Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit or high resistance in the circuit: M/T model: The BLK wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the ignition switch M/T model: The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the starter A/T model: The WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and the under-hood fuse/relay box A/T model: The BLU wire and connectors between starter cut relay 1 and starter cut relay 2 A/T model: The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between starter cut relay 2 and the starter The ignition switch (see «TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/ignition-switchsteering-lock/#ignition-switch__test) ) The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T) (see «CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) The starter cut relays (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ) NO -Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
10. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw. Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V (M/T)/7.7 V (A/T) and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A (M/T)/400 A (A/T)? YES -Go to step 11. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty drive gear clutch
11. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
12. Select ECM/PCM reset (see «ECM/PCM RESET»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__ecmpcm-reset) ) to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
13. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 82 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A).
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#manual-transmission-clutch__clutch-pedal-clutch-pedal-position-switch) ).

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1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped).
2. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
4. Disconnect the starter cable (A), BLK/WHT wire (B), and motor cable (C). M/T A/T
5. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
6. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity. If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
7. Connect the cables and wire in the reverse order of removal.
8. Connect the negative cable to the battery.
9. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 82 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).
10. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped).
11. Set the clock (on vehicles without navigation).

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1. Disconnect the wire from the M terminal.
2. Make a connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
3. Connect the battery as shown. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the solenoid. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
4. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
6. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
7. Reconnect the wire to the M terminal.
8. Connect the starter to the battery as shown, and confirm that the motor starts and keeps rotating.
9. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V (M/T)/11 V (A/T), the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 80 A (M/T)/90 A (A/T) or less

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1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped). Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
2. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
4. Remove the battery and the battery tray.
5. Remove the harness clamp (A). M/T A/T
6. Disconnect the starter cable (B) from the B terminal, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (C) from the S terminal.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

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1. Install the starter, then install the harness clamp (A), connect the starter cable (B) to the B terminal and the BLK/WHT wire (C) to the S terminal. Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it. NOTE: Always use a new gasket (A/T model). M/T A/T
2. Install the battery tray and the battery.
3. Connect the positive cable to the battery, then connect the negative cable.
4. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.
5. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 82 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).
6. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped).
7. Set the clock (on vehicles without navigation).

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 5, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in.) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in.)
6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.016-0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 15.8-16.2 mm (0.62-0.64 in.) Service Limit: 11.0 mm (0.43 in.) Starter Brush Holder Test
12. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Spring Inspection
13. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If the spring tension is not within specification, replace the spring. Spring Tension: 15.7-17.7 N (1.60-1.80 kgf, 3.53-3.97 lbf)
14. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its holder. Release the spring to hold in place. NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
15. Install the armature in the housing. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push each brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
16. Install the starter end cover (A) to retain the brush holder (B). Overrunning Clutch Inspection
17. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
18. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. If it does not lock in either direction, or it locks in both directions, replace it.
19. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. NOTE: Check the condition of the flywheel ring gear to see if the teeth are damaged.
20. Reassemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly.

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2006-2008/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
2. Disconnect the wire from the M terminal, and remove the end cover.
3. Place a plastic pipe with an outside diameter of 29.4 mm (1.16 in.) on the armature.
4. Move the brush holder (A) up to the pipe (B) while holding the pipe so the brushes do not pop out from the holder. Armature Inspection and Test
5. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
6. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
7. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 8, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
8. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 29.3-29.5 mm (1.154-1.161 in.) Service Limit: 28.8 mm (1.134 in.)
9. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.05 mm (0.002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
10. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.016-0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.20 mm (0.008 in.)
11. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
12. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
13. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
14. Measure the brush length (A). If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 7.7-8.0 mm (0.30-0.31 in.) Service Limit: 0.9 mm (0.04 in.) Starter Brush Holder Test
15. Check for continuity between the (+) brush (A) and (-) brush (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection
16. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
17. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
18. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) in both directions. It should lock and move upward in one direction and rotate smoothly in the other direction. If it does not lock in either direction, or if it locks both directions, then replace it.
19. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the idler gear and torque converter ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly
20. Install the armature into the housing.
21. Place the brush holder assembly on the armature, then move the brush holder (A) down to the armature.
22. Install the end cover to retain the brush holder.

See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• TEST
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING (PART 2)
• ECM/PCM RESET
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
• STARTER SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST