Starting System Acura TL III

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Symptom Troubleshooting Index

SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

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Starter Circuit Troubleshooting

Note. Air temperature must be between 59 and 100 °F (15 and 38 °C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM), using the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) (see HDS CLEAR COMMAND ), otherwise the ECM/PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

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1. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
2. Hook up the following equipment: Ammeter, 0-400 A Voltmeter, 0-20 V (accurate within 0.1 V)
3. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (see step 2 on «GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems) ).
4. On the HDS, select PGM-FI, INSPECTION, then ALL INJECTORS OFF.
5. With the shift lever in the N or P position (A/T) or the clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to START (III). Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES - The starting system is OK. Go to step 11. NO -Go to step 6.
6. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 11. NO -Check the following: If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to step 7. If it cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 8. If it will not disengage from the flywheel or torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch
7. Make sure the transmission is in the N or P position (A/T) or neutral (M/T), then disconnect the BLK/ WHT wire (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES - Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit: The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the underdash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch The BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the underdash fuse/relay box and the starter The ignition switch (see «TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch__test) ) The transmission range switch and connector (A/T) (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) or the clutch interlock switch and connector (M/T) (see «CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) The starter cut relay (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ) NO -Remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
8. While cranking the engine, check the cranking voltage and the current draw. Is the cranking voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A? YES - Go to step 9. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine
9. Check the engine speed while cranking the engine. Is the engine speed above 100 RPM? YES - Go to step 10. NO -Replace the starter, or remove and disassemble it, and check for the following: Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in commutator brushes Dirty or damaged helical splines or drive gear Faulty drive gear clutch
10. Remove the starter, and inspect its drive gear and the flywheel or torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
11. Select ECM/PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/auxiliary-emission-control-systems/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__hds-clear-command) ) to cancel the ALL INJECTORS OFF on the HDS.
12. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 76 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).

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1. Disconnect the clutch interlock switch 2P connector (A).
2. Remove the clutch interlock switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals according to the table. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the clutch interlock switch. If OK, install the clutch interlock switch and adjust the pedal height (see «CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/clutches-manual-hydraulic/#clutch-system__clutch-pedal-clutch-pedal-position-switch) ).

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1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then write down the audio presets.
2. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable.
4. Remove the starter cable (A), BLK/WHT wire (B), and motor cable (C).
5. Check the hold-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the armature housing (ground). There should be continuity. If there is continuity, go to step 6. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
6. Check the pull-in coil for continuity between the S terminal and the M terminal. There should be continuity. If there is continuity, the solenoid is OK. If there is no continuity, replace the solenoid.
7. Install in the reverse order of removal.
8. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, and then connect the negative cable.
9. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 77 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).
10. Enter the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then enter the audio presets.
11. Set the clock.

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1. Disconnect the wire from the M terminal.
2. Make a connection as shown using as heavy a wire as possible (preferably equivalent to the wire used for the vehicle). To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
3. Connect the battery as shown. Make sure you disconnect the starter motor wire from the solenoid. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly.
4. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil of the solenoid is working properly.
5. Disconnect the battery from the starter body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly.
6. Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
7. Reconnect the wire to the M terminal.
8. Connect the starter to the battery as shown in the diagram, and check that the motor starts and keeps rotating.
9. If the electric current and motor speed meet the specifications when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specifications Electric Current: 80 A or less Motor Speed: 2,600 RPM or more

Scheme 12

1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then write down the audio presets. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
2. Remove the left side engine compartment cover (see step 3 on «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
3. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery first, then disconnect the positive cable.
4. Remove the battery and the battery tray.
5. Remove the harness clamp (A).
6. Disconnect the starter cable (B) from the B terminal, then disconnect the BLK/WHT wire (C) from the S terminal.
7. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

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1. Install the starter, then install the harness clamp (A). Connect the starter cable (B) to B terminal and the BLK/WHT wire (C) to the S terminal. Make sure the crimped side of the starter cable ring terminal is facing out.
2. Install the battery tray and the battery.
3. Connect the positive cable to the battery first, then connect the negative cable.
4. Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.
5. Reinstall the left side engine compartment cover (see step 77 on «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation__engine-installation) ).
6. Either the anti-theft codes for the radio and the navigation system, then enter the audio presets.
7. Set the clock.

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1. Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/tl/iii-2003-2006/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure.
3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in.) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in.)
6. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or V-shaped (D). Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.4-0.5 mm (0.016-0.020 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
10. Check for continuity between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature.

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1. 11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 15.8-16.2 mm (0.62-0.64 in.) Service Limit: 11.0 mm (0.43 in.)

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1. 12. Check for continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) brush holder (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.

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1. 13. Insert the brush (A) into the brush holder, and bring the brush into contact with the commutator, then attach a spring scale (B) to the spring (C). Measure the spring tension at the moment the spring lifts off the brush. If the spring tension is not within specification, replace the spring. Spring Tension: 15.7-17.7 N (1.60-1.80 kgf, 3.53-3.97 lbf)
2. 14. Pry back each brush spring with a screwdriver, then position the brush about halfway out of its holder, and release the spring to hold it there. NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
3. 15. Install the armature in the housing. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push the brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush.
4. 16. Install the starter end cover (A) to retain the brush holder (B).

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1. 17. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if it does not slide smoothly.
2. 18. Rotate the overrunning clutch (A) both ways. If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
3. 19. If the starter drive gear (B) is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. NOTE: Check the condition of the flywheel or torque converter ring gear to see if the teeth are damaged.
4. 20. Reassemble the starter in the reverse order of disassembly.

See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• TEST
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR REPLACEMENT
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• HDS CLEAR COMMAND
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• ENGINE INSTALLATION
• CLUTCH PEDAL, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH, AND CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
• STARTER CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• CLUTCH INTERLOCK SWITCH TEST