Engine Block Acura RL II рестайлинг

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1. Remove the oil pump (see «REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication__removal) ).
2. Remove the baffle plate (see step 10 ).
3. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between the connecting rod (B) and crankshaft (C). Connecting Rod End Play Standard (New): 0.15-0.35 mm (0.006-0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
4. If the connecting rod end play is beyond the service limit, install a new connecting rod and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
5. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit. Crankshaft End Play Standard (New): 0.10-0.35 mm (0.004-0.014 in.) Service Limit: 0.45 mm (0.018 in.)
6. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the crankshaft (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

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1. Remove the main bearing caps and bearing halves (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Clean each main journal and bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place one strip of plastigage across each main journal. NOTE: If the engine is still in the vehicle when you bolt the main cap down to check the clearance, the weight of the crankshaft and drive plate will flatten the plastigage further than just the torque on the cap bolt and give you an incorrect reading. For an accurate reading, support the crank with a jack under the counterweights, and check only one bearing at a time.
4. Reinstall the bearings and the caps, then torque the bearing cap bolts to 74 N.m (7.5 kgf.m, 54 lbf.ft), and the bearing cap side bolts to 49 N.m (5.0 kgf.m, 36 lbf.ft) in the proper sequence (see step 22 ). NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection.
5. Remove the cap and bearing half, and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Main Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.019-0.045 mm (0.0007-0.0018 in.) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.0020 in.)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper half of the bearing. Install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

Crankshaft Bore Code Location

Letters or bars have been stamped on the end of the engine block as a code for the size of each of the four main journal bores.

Use them, and the numbers stamped on the crankshaft (codes for main journal size), to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.

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1. Remove the connecting rod cap and the bearing half (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and the bearing half with a clean shop towel.
3. Place a strip of plastigage across the rod journal.
4. Reinstall the bearing half and the cap, and torque the bolts. NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during inspection. Tightening Torque: 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft) + 90 °
5. Remove the rod cap and the bearing half and measure the widest part of the plastigage. Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Oil Clearance Standard (New): 0.020-0.044 mm (0.0008-0.0017 in.) Service Limit: 0.050 mm (0.0020 in.)
6. If the plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, then install a new, complete bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the color listed above or below the current one), and check clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).

Rod Bearing Selection

Each rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges, from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 in.), in 0.006 mm (0.0002 in.) increments, depending on the size of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1,2,3, or 4/I, II, III, or Mil) indicating the range. You may find any combination of 1, 2,3, or 4/I, II, III, or IIII in any engine.

Normal Bore Size: 60.0 mm (2.36 in.)

Inspect the connecting rod for cracks and heat damage.

Connecting Rod Journal Code Locations

Numbers or bars have been stamped on the side of each connecting rod as a code for the size of the big end. Use them, and the letters or bars stamped on the crank (codes for rod journal size) to choose the correct bearings. If the codes are indecipherable because of an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.

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1. If the engine is out of the vehicle, go to step 6 .
2. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height.
3. Drain the engine oil (see «ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).
4. Remove the splash shield (see step 31 under «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
5. Remove exhaust pipe A.
6. Remove the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC) bracket.
7. Remove the torque converter cover (A) and the four bolts (B) securing the transmission.
8. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.
9. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places shown.
10. Remove the oil pan.

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1. Remove the engine assembly (see «ENGINE REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
2. Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
3. Remove the drive plate.
4. Remove the cylinder heads (see «CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
5. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see «CMP SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system) ).
6. Remove the timing belt drive pulley from the crankshaft.
7. Remove the oil pan (see «OIL PAN REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
8. Remove the engine block end cover.
9. Remove the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly.
10. Remove the oil screen (A), baffle plate (B), and oil pump (C).
11. Remove the connecting rod caps after setting the crank pin at bottom dead center (BDC) for each cylinder. Remove the piston/connecting rod assembly by pushing on the connecting rod. Take care not to damage the oil jets, crank pin, or cylinder with the connecting rod.
12. Remove the bearing from the cap. Keep all caps/ bearings in order.
13. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their respective caps.
14. After removing a piston/connecting rod assembly, reinstall the cap on the rod.
15. To avoid mix-up during reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
16. Loosen the bearing cap bolts and the bearing cap side bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
17. Remove the bearing cap bolts (A) and the bearing cap side bolts (B), then remove the bearing cap (C).
18. Lift the crankshaft (A) out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals.
19. Reinstall the main caps and the bearings on the engine block in the proper order.

Crankshaft Inspection

Out-of-Round and Taper

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1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Clean the crankshaft oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush.
3. Check the keyway slot and the threaded holes for damage.
4. Measure out-of-round at the middle of each rod and main journal in two places. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Out-of-Round Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
5. Measure the taper at the edges of each rod and main journal. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.) Straightness
6. Place the engine block on the surface plate.
7. Clean and install the bearings on the No. 1 and No. 4 journal of the engine block.
8. Lower the crankshaft into the engine block.
9. Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions. The difference between measurements on each journal must not be more than the service limit. Crankshaft Total Runout Standard (New): 0.025 mm (0.0010 in.) max. Service Limit: 0.030 mm (0.0012 in.)

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks.
3. Measure the piston diameter at a point 16.0 mm (0.63 in.) from the bottom of the skirt. Piston Diameter Standard (New): 89.983-89.996 mm (3.5426-3.5431 in.) Service Limit: 89.975 mm (3.5423 in.)
4. Measure wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown. Cylinder Bore Size Standard (New): 90.000-90.015 mm (3.5433-3.5439 in.) Service Limit: 90.065 mm (3.5459 in.) Bore Taper Limit: (Difference between first and third measurement) 0.015 mm (0.00059 in.)
5. Check the top of the engine block for warpage. Measure along the edges and across the center as shown. Engine Block Warpage Standard (New): 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) max.
6. Calculate the difference between cylinder bore diameter and piston diameter. If the clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect the piston and cylinder bore for excessive wear. Piston-to-Cylinder Bore Clearance Standard (New): 0.004-0.032 mm (0.0002-0.0013 in.) Service Limit: 0.070 mm (0.0027 in.)

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Apply new engine oil to the piston pin snap rings (A) and turn them in the ring grooves until the end gaps are lined up with the cutouts in the piston pin bores (B). NOTE: Take care not to damage the ring grooves.
3. Remove snap rings (A) from both sides of the piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin bore. Remove the snap rings carefully so they do not go flying or get lost. Wear eye protection.
4. Heat the piston and connecting rod assembly to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.

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Inspection

Note. Inspect the piston, the piston pin, and the connecting rod when they are at room temperature.

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1. Measure the diameter of the piston pin. Piston Pin Diameter Standard (New): 21.961-21.965 mm (0.8646-0.8648 in.) Service Limit: 21.954 mm (0.8643 in.)
2. Zero the dial indicator to the piston pin diameter.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and piston pin hole diameter on the piston. Piston Pin-to-Piston Clearance Standard (New): -0.005 to +0.002 mm (-0.0002 to +0.00008 in.) Service Limit: 0.004 mm (0.0002 in.)
4. Measure the piston pin-to-connecting rod clearance. Piston Pin-to-Connecting Rod Clearance Standard (New): 0.005-0.015 mm (0.0002-0.0006 in.) Service Limit: 0.019 mm (0.0007 in.)

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1. Install a piston pin snap ring (A) only on one side.
2. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
3. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).
4. Assemble the piston (A) and connecting rod (B) with the embossed marks (C) on the same side. Install the piston pin (D). NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the piston pin.
5. Install the remaining snap ring.

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1. Remove the piston from the engine block (see «CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston rings (B).
3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner with a blade that fits the piston grooves. File down the blade, if necessary. The top ring and second ring grooves are 1.2 mm (0.05 in.) wide, and the oil ring groove is 2.8 mm (0.11 in.) wide. Do not use a wire brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tool. NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15-20 mm (0.6-0.8 in.) from the bottom.
5. Measure the piston ring end-gap (B) with a feeler gauge: If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine. If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits (see step 4 ). Piston Ring End-Gap Top Ring: Standard (New): 0.30-0.40 mm (0.012-0.016 in.) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 in.) Second Ring: Standard (New): 0.40-0.55 mm (0.016-0.022 in.) Service Limit: 0.70 mm (0.028 in.) Oil Ring: Standard (New): 0.20-0.70 mm (0.008-0.028 in.) Service Limit: 0.80 mm (0.031 in.)
6. Install the rings as shown. The top ring (A) has a 1E mark and the second ring (B) has a 2E mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must face upward.
7. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearance: Top Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.055-0.085 mm (0.0022-0.0033 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.) Second Ring Clearance Standard (New): 0.030-0.060 mm (0.0012-0.0024 in.) Service Limit: 0.13 mm (0.005 in.)
8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
9. Position the ring end gaps as shown

Crankshaft and Piston Installation

Special Tools Required

1. Driver handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Driver attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCAA200

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1. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CONNECTING ROD BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
2. Check the main bearing clearance with plastigage (see «CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and the connecting rods.
4. Apply new engine oil to the inside of the main bearings and rod bearings.
5. Lower the crankshaft (A) into the engine block.
6. Apply new engine oil to the side with the thrust washer groove. Install the thrust washers (A) in the No. 3 journal.
7. Install the bearings (A) and the bearing caps (B) with the arrow (C) facing the timing belt end of the engine.
8. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges, then loosely install the bearing cap bolts (D) and bearing cap side bolts (E).
9. Set the crankshaft to bottom dead center (BDC) for the cylinder you are installing the piston in.
10. Apply new engine oil to the piston, inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore.
11. Attach the ring compressor to the piston/ connecting rod assembly, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
12. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the timing belt side of the engine.
13. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A). Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
14. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-crank journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
15. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B.
16. Calculate the difference in diameter between point A and point B. Point A-Point B = Difference in Diameter Difference in Diameter Specification: 0-0.1 mm (0-0.004 in.)
17. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
18. Line up the mark (A) on the connecting rod and cap, then install the cap.
19. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Torque the bolts (B) to 20 N.m (2.0 kgf.m, 14 lbf.ft).
20. Mark the connecting rod (A) and bolt head (B) as shown.
21. Tighten the bolt until the mark on the bolt head lines up with the mark on the connecting rod (turn the bolt 90 °). NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to step 15 of the procedure. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.
22. Tighten the bearing cap bolts, and then the bearing cap side bolts to the specified torque in the sequence as shown. Repeat the torque sequence again to measure the bolts are properly torqued.
23. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the crankshaft and to the lip of the seal.
24. Drive the new crankshaft oil seal until the driver attachment bottoms on the engine block end cover.
25. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the engine block end cover mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
26. Clean and dry the engine block end cover mating surfaces.
27. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the engine block end cover and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply liquid gasket about 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) diameter bead along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
28. Install the dowel pins (A), new O-ring (B), and the engine block end cover (C) on the engine block.
29. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion.
30. Install a new crankshaft oil seal in the oil pump (see step 2 under «INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).
31. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pump mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
32. Clean and dry the oil pump mating surfaces.
33. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004,08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009) to the engine block mating surface of the oil pump and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply liquid gasket about 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) diameter bead along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 087178-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
34. Grease the lip of the oil seal, and apply new engine oil to the new O-ring (A).
35. Install the dowel pins (B), then align the inner rotor with the crankshaft, and install the oil pump (C).
36. Clean the excess grease off the crankshaft, and check the seal for distortion.
37. Install the baffle plate (D), then install the oil screen (E) with the new O-ring (F).
38. Install the rocker arm oil control solenoid/oil filter assembly (A), with a new rocker arm oil control solenoid filter (B).
39. Install the oil pan (see «OIL PAN INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-block) ).
40. Install the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (see «CMP SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system) ).
41. Install the cylinder heads (see «CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
42. Install the drive plate.
43. Install the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
44. Install the engine assembly (see «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).

Note. When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, after assembly it is necessary to run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run it for about 15 minutes.

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1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
3. Apply liquid gasket (P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009) to the engine block-mating surface of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket. NOTE: Apply liquid gasket about 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) diameter bead along the broken line (A). If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes. If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
4. Install the oil pan on the engine block.
5. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.8 lbf.ft). NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes to allow liquid gasket to cure before filling the engine with oil. Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.
6. Tighten the four bolts (A) securing the transmission, then install the torque converter cover (B).
7. Install the rear warm up three way catalytic converter (rear WU-TWC) bracket.
8. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps.
9. Install exhaust pipe A, using new gaskets (B) and new self-locking nuts (C).
10. Install the splash shield (see step 39 under «ENGINE INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#engine-removal-and-installation) ).
11. Refill the engine with oil (see step 4 under «ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/lubrication-system/#engine-lubrication) ).
12. Lower the vehicle on the lift.

Pulley End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

Oil seal driver, 64 mm 070AD-RCAA100

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1. Remove the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor, the timing belt, and the timing belt drive pulley (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).
2. Remove the pulley end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the crankshaft and to the lip of the seal.
5. Using the seal driver, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until the driver bottoms against the oil pump. When the seal is in place, clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
6. Install the timing belt drive pulley, the timing belt, and the CKP sensor (see «TIMING BELT DRIVE PULLEY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/mechanical/#cylinder-head) ).

Transmission End Crankshaft Oil Seal Installation - In Car

Special Tools Required

1. Driver Handle, 15 x 135L 07749-0010000
2. Driver attachment, 106 mm 070AD-RCAA200

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1. Remove the transmission (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) and the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
2. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal.
3. Clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing.
4. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the crankshaft and to the lip of the seal.
5. Using the special tools, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until the driver attachment bottoms against the engine block end cover. Align the hole in the driver attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
6. Clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted.
7. Install the drive plate (see «DRIVE PLATE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2008-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and the transmission.

Sealing Bolt Installation

Note. When installing the sealing bolt (A), always use a new washer.

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See also:
• REMOVAL
• ENGINE OIL LEVEL CHECK
• ENGINE REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
• CMP SENSOR REPLACEMENT
• CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON REMOVAL