Body Glass Acura RL II

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Windshield Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. Cover interior surfaces to avoid damaging them.

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1. Remove these items: Windshield wiper arms (see «WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/wiperwasher-systems/#wiper-system-washer-system) ) Cowl covers (see «COWL COVER REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__cowl-cover-replacement) ) Rearview mirror (see «REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/mirrors/#mirrors__rearview-mirror-replacement) ) A-pillar trim, both sides (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-pillar-areas) ) Windshield side trim (see «WINDSHIELD SIDE TRIM REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#exterior-trim__windshield-side-trim-replacement) )
2. Remove the molding (A) from the upper edge of the windshield (B). If necessary, cut the molding with a utility knife.
3. If the old windshield will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil.
4. Pull down the front portion of the headliner (see «HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__headliner-removalinstallation) ). Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
5. Apply protective tape along the edge of the dashboard and body. Using an awl, make a hole through the rubber dam and adhesive from inside the vehicle at the corner portion of the windshield. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
6. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the windshield (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body and dashboard. Carefully cut through the rubber dam and adhesive (C) around the entire windshield. Cutting positions
7. Carefully remove the windshield.
8. With a knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire windshield opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the rubber dam and fasteners from the body. Replace the dashboard seal with a new one.
9. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the clean surface.
10. If the old windshield will be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the Velcro fasteners and the rubber dam. Clean the inside face and the edge of the windshield with alcohol where new adhesive will be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease.
11. Attach the upper rubber dam (A), lower rubber dam (B) with adhesive tape A, and clips (C) with adhesive tape B to the inside face of the windshield (D) as shown: Be sure the rubber dam and clips line up with the alignment marks (E). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Adhesive tape A: Thickness 0.16 mm (0.006 in.) Adhesive tape B: Thickness 0.4 mm (0.02 in.) Width 10 mm (0.39 in.)
12. Attach the molding (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the upper edge of the windshield (C). Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.03 in.) Width 4 mm (0.2 in.)
13. Attach the molding upper seal (A) to the inside surface of the molding (B) as shown.
14. Set the windshield in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the windshield and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure both clips (B) contact the edge of the body holes. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied.
15. Remove the windshield.
16. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer around the edge of the windshield (A) between the dams (B) and molding (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Apply glass primer to the molding. Do not apply body primer to the windshield, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the windshield properly, causing a leak after the windshield is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
17. With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
18. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
19. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) around the edge of the windshield (B) between the dams (C) and molding (D) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
20. Use suction cups to hold the windshield over the opening, align it with the alignment marks made in step 14 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the windshield until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
21. Scrape or wipe any excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the windshield, wipe with a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol.
22. After the adhesive has dried, spray water over the windshield and check for leaks. Mark any leaking areas, and let the windshield dry, then seal with sealant: Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hours after windshield installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly. Keep the windshield dry for the first hour after installation.
23. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. NOTE: Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads). When replacing a broken windshield, a commercially available windshield cutter can be efficiently used for cutting the adhesive.

Rear Window Replacement

Note. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Wear eye protection while cutting the glass adhesive with piano wire. Cover interior surfaces to avoid damaging them. Do not damage the rear window defogger grid lines, window antenna grid lines, and terminals.

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1. Remove these items: Trunk lid (see «TRUNK LID ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exterior-body-panels/#trunk-lid) ) Rear shelf (see «TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SHELF AREA»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#interior-trim__trim-removalinstallation-rear-shelf-area) ) High mount brake light (see «HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/exterior-lights/#exterior-lights) ) XM antenna module (see «XM ANTENNA MODULE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/rl/ii-2004-2008/remont/entertainment-systems/#audio-system) )
2. Disconnect the window antenna connectors (A) and rear window defogger connectors (B). Left side Right side
3. If the old rear window will be reinstalled, make alignment marks across the glass and body with a grease pencil.
4. Pull down the rear portion of the headliner (A) by detaching the clips. Take care not to bend the headliner excessively, or you may crease or break it.
5. Apply protective tape along the inside and outside edges of the body. Using an awl, make a hole through the adhesive from inside the vehicle at the corner portion of the rear window. Push a piece of piano wire through the hole, and wrap each end around a piece of wood.
6. Remove the lower rubber dam (A) from the lower edge of the rear window (B). If necessary, cut the lower rubber dam with a utility knife.
7. With a helper on the outside, pull the piano wire (A) back and forth in a sawing motion. Hold the piano wire as close to the rear window (B) as possible to prevent damage to the body, and carefully cut through the adhesive (C) around the entire rear window. Cutting positions
8. Carefully remove the rear window.
9. With a putty knife, scrape the old adhesive smooth to a thickness of about 2 mm (0.08 in.) on the bonding surface around the entire rear window opening flange: Do not scrape down to the painted surface of the body; damaged paint will interfere with proper bonding. Remove the Velcro fasteners from the body.
10. Clean the body bonding surface with a sponge dampened in alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease and water from getting on the surface.
11. If the old rear window will be reinstalled, use a putty knife to scrape off all of the old adhesive, the moldings and the Velcro fasteners from the rear window. Clean the inside face and the edge of the rear window with alcohol where new adhesive will be applied. Make sure the bonding surface is kept free of water, oil and grease.
12. Attach the upper rubber dam (A), lower rubber dam (B), clips (C), and fasteners (D) with adhesive tape to the inside face of the rear window (E) as shown: Before installing the upper rubber dam, apply primer to the upper corner areas where it adhesive tape will be stuck in inside face of the rear window. Be sure the lower rubber dam, clips, and fasteners line up with the alignment marks (F). Be sure the convex portion (G) of the left and right clips toward left. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Rubber dams adhesive tape: Thickness 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) Width 3 mm (0.12 in.) Clips adhesive tape: Thickness 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) Width 3 mm (0.12 in.) Fasteners adhesive tape: Thickness 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) Width 4 mm (0.16 in.)
13. Attach the lower rubber dam (A) with adhesive tape (B) to the lower edge of the rear window (C): After installing the molding, cut the ends (D) of the molding as shown. Be careful not to touch the windshield where adhesive will be applied. Adhesive tape B: Thickness 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) Width 4 mm (0.16 in.)
14. Attach the Velcro fasteners (A) with adhesive tape to the rear window opening flange (B) of the body on both sides. Adhesive tape: Thickness 0.8 mm (0.03 in.)
15. Set the rear window in the opening, and center it. Make alignment marks (A) across the rear window and body with a grease pencil at the four points shown. Make sure both upper clips (B) are in the body holes. Be careful not to touch the rear window where adhesive will be applied.
16. Remove the rear window.
17. With a sponge, apply a light coat of glass primer along the edge of the rear window (A) between the dam B (B) and dam C (C) as shown, then lightly wipe it off with gauze or cheesecloth: Do not apply body primer to the rear window, and do not get body and glass primer sponges mixed up. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands. If you do, the adhesive may not bond to the rear window properly, causing a leak after the rear window is installed. Keep water, dust, and abrasive materials away from the primed surfaces.
18. With a sponge, carefully apply a light coat of body primer to any exposed paint around the flange where new adhesive will be applied. Let the primer dry for at least 10 minutes: Do not apply body primer to any remaining original adhesive on the flange. Be careful not to mix up the body and glass primer sponges. Never touch the primed surfaces with your hands.
19. Cut a "V" in the end of the nozzle (A) on the adhesive cartridge as shown.
20. Put the cartridge in a caulking gun, and run a bead of adhesive (A) around the edge of the rear window (B) between the dams (C) and molding (D) as shown. Apply the adhesive within 30 minutes after applying the glass primer. Make a slightly thicker bead at each corner.
21. Use suction cups to hold the rear window over the opening, align it with the alignment marks you made in step 15 , and set it down on the adhesive. Lightly push on the rear window until its edges are fully seated on the adhesive all the way around. Do not open or close any of the doors for about an hour until the adhesive is dry.
22. Scrape or wipe any excess adhesive off with a putty knife or towel. To remove adhesive from a painted surface or the rear window, use a soft shop towel dampened with alcohol.
23. After the adhesive has dried, then spray water over the rear window and check for leaks. Mark any leaking areas, let the rear window dry, then seal with sealant. Let the vehicle stand for at least 4 hour window installation. If the vehicle has to be used within the first 4 hours, it must be driven slowly.
24. Reinstall all remaining removed parts. Advise the customer not to do the following things for 2 to 3 days: Slam the doors with all the windows rolled up. Twist the body excessively (such as when going in and out of driveways at an angle or driving over rough, uneven roads).

See also:
• WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT
• COWL COVER REPLACEMENT
• REARVIEW MIRROR REPLACEMENT
• TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - PILLAR AREAS
• WINDSHIELD SIDE TRIM REPLACEMENT
• HEADLINER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
• TRUNK LID ADJUSTMENT
• TRIM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION - REAR SHELF AREA
• HIGH MOUNT BRAKE LIGHT REPLACEMENT
• XM ANTENNA MODULE REPLACEMENT