Scheme 1
Symptom Troubleshooting Index
| Symptom | Diagnostic procedure | Also check for |
|---|---|---|
| Engine does not crank | Check for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter (see STARTER PERFORMANCE TEST ). Check the starter cut relay 1 and the starter cut relay 2 (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check the transmission range switch (see TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST ). Check the ignition switch or related circuits (see IGNITION SWITCH TEST ). | Poor ground at G101 Seized engine |
| Engine cranks, but does not start | Check for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the PGM-FI main relay (see POWER RELAY TEST ). Check for IMMOBI status and function (see STATUS LOG ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ). Check the throttle body (see THROTTLE BODY TEST ). Check for low engine compression (see ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION ). Check the camshaft timing (see CAM CHAIN REMOVAL ). Do the PCM reset in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS. | Fuel level in tank Weak or fouled spark plugs |
| Engine is hard to start | Check for PGM-FI DTCs (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ). Check the fuel pressure (see FUEL PRESSURE TEST ). Check for a plugged or damaged fuel line (see FUEL LINE INSPECTION ). Check for a plugged fuel filter (see FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT ). | Weak or fouled spark plugs |
| Engine cranks slowly | Check for loose battery terminals or connections. Test the battery for a low state of charge (see BATTERY TEST ). Check the starter for binding (see STARTER OVERHAUL ). Check for excessive drag in the engine. |
Scheme 2
Starter System Circuit Troubleshooting
Special Tools Required
Alternator, Regulator, Battery, and Starter Tester OTC3131*
*Available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program, 888-424-6857.
Note. Air temperature must be within 59-100°F(15-38°C) during this procedure. After this inspection, you must reset the PCM. Otherwise, the PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.
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- Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery as shown in illustration. NOTE: The probe is not used for battery testing.
- Do the BATTERY TEST. Does the display indicate GOOD or GOOD, LOW CHARGE? YES -The battery is OK. Charge the battery if necessary, then go to step 3. NO -If the display indicates BAD BATTERY, replace the battery, then retest (see «RECONNECTION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/body-electrical/#battery__reconnection) ). If the display indicates CHARGE & RETEST, charge the battery, then retest.
- Connect the HDS to the DLC (see «HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__how-to-use-the-hds-honda) ).
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
- Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the PCM. If it does not communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit (see «DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/testing-diagnostics/#pgm-fi-system__dlc-circuit-troubleshooting) ).
- Select ALL INJECTORS STOP in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu with the HDS.
- Set the parking brake, then with the shift lever in P or N, turn the ignition switch to START (III) to crank the engine. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Go to step 8.
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
- Check the electrical connections at the battery, the negative battery cable to the body, the engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try cranking the engine again. Does the starter crank the engine normally? YES -Repairing the loose connection corrected the problem. The starting system is OK. Go to step 15 . NO -Based on the following symptoms, take the appropriate action: If the starter does not crank the engine at all, go to step 10. If the starter cranks the engine erratically or too slowly, go to step 12 . If the starter does not disengage from the torque converter ring gear when you release the key, replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for the following: Starter solenoid and switch malfunction. Dirty drive gear or damaged overrunning clutch. Damaged torque converter ring gear.
- Make sure the shift lever is in the P or N, and set the parking brake, then disconnect the connector (A) from the starter S terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the S terminal. Does the starter crank the engine? YES -Go to step 9 . NO -Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and repair (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ) or replace it as necessary.
- Check the following items in the order listed until you find the problem in the circuit: NOTE: After the problem in the circuit is found and repaired, go to step 13 . Check for an open or short in the YEL wire and connectors between the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder and the ignition switch. Check for an open or short in the RED and BLK/WHT wire and connectors between the under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter. Check the No. 39 (7.5 A) fuse in the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder. Check for an open or short in the GRY wire and connectors between the PCM and the auxiliary under-dash fuse holder. Check for a faulty ignition switch (see «IGNITION SWITCH TEST»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/steering-column-switches/#ignition-switch) ). Check for a faulty transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Check for a faulty starter cut relays (see «POWER RELAY TEST»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/body-electrical/#relays__power-relay-test) ).
- Connect the alternator, regulator, battery, and starter tester (OTC3131) to the battery. NOTE: The probe is used for starter testing.
- Do the STARTING TEST. Does the display indicate craning voltage greater than or equal to 8.5 V and is the current draw less than or equal to 380 A? YES -Go to step 14. NO -Replace the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), or remove and disassemble it (see «STARTER OVERHAUL»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and check for these problems: Drag in the starter armature Short in the armature winding Excessive drag in the engine Open circuit in starter armature commutator segments Excessively worn starter brushes Open circuit in the starter brushes Dirty or damaged helical spline or drive gear Faulty drive gear clutch
- Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ), and inspect its drive gear and the torque converter ring gear for damage. Replace any damaged parts.
- Select PCM reset (see «HDS CLEAR COMMAND»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/testing-diagnostics/#fuel-and-emissions-systems__hds-clear-command) ) in the PGM-FI INSPECTION menu to cancel ALL INJECTORS STOP with the HDS.
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- Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ).
- Clamp the starter firmly in a vise.
- Make the connection for this test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle). NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
- Connect the battery as shown in illustration, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is continuity, it is working properly.
- Disconnect the battery from the body, and check for continuity between the B terminal and the starter body. If there is no continuity, it is working properly.
- Connect the starter to the battery as shown in illustration, and confirm that the motor runs.
- If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is working properly. Specification Electric Current: 80 A or less
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- Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure (see «USING THE GR8 BATTERY DIAGNOSTIC STATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/body-electrical/#battery) ).
- Remove the clip (A), then remove the coolant reservoir (B) from the holder.
- Remove the two bolts and the four clips from the front grille base (A), then remove the support rod clamp bracket (B).
- Disconnect the A/C condenser fan motor connector (A), then remove the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly (B).
- Remove the harness clamp (A) and the connector (B), then remove the intake manifold bracket (C).
- Disconnect the positive starter cable (A) from the B terminal, then disconnect the connector (B) from the S terminal.
- Remove the harness clamps (C), then remove the bolts (D), and remove the starter.
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- Install the starter by installing the bolts (A), then install the positive starter cable (B) and the connector (C). Make sure the crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the starter when you connect it.
- Install the harness clamps (D).
- Install the intake manifold bracket (A), then install the harness clamp (B) and connector (C).
- Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly (A), then connect the A/C condenser fan motor connector (B).
- Install the support rod clamp bracket (A), then install the two bolts and the four clips.
- Install the coolant reservoir.
- Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure (see «RECONNECTION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/body-electrical/#battery__reconnection) ).
- Start the engine to make sure the starter works properly.
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Note. Refer to the EXPLODED VIEW if needed during this procedure.
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- Remove the starter (see «STARTER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/rdx/i-2009-2012/remont/starter/#starting-system) ). Armature Inspection and Test
- Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
- Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 4, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
- Check the commutator diameter with a digital caliper or dial type caliper. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Diameter Standard (New): 28.0-28.1 mm (1.102-1.106 in) Service Limit: 27.5 mm (1.083 in)
- Measure the commutator (A) runout: If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Runout Standard (New): 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) max. Service Limit: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in)
- Use a digital caliper or dial type caliper to check the mica depth (A). If the mica depth is below the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator Mica Depth Standard (New): 0.40-0.50 mm (0.0157-0.0197 in) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in)
- Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit between any of the segments, replace the armature.
- Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature core. If the blade is attracted to the core while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
- Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and the armature shaft (C). If there is continuity, replace the armature. Starter Brush Inspection
- Remove the brush holder.
- Measure the brush length. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly. Brush Length Standard (New): 11.1-11.5 mm (0.437-0.453 in) Service Limit: 4.3 mm (0.169 in) Starter Brush Holder Test
- Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and the (-) brushes (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly. Planetary Gear Inspection
- Check the planetary gears (A), the armature shaft gear (B), and the internal ring gear (C). Replace them if they are worn or damaged. Overrunning Clutch Inspection
- Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) counterclockwise. Check that the drive gear comes out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move smoothly, replace the gear cover set.
- Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft clockwise. The gear shaft should rotate freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace the gear cover set.
- If the drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear is not available separately. Check the condition of the torque converter ring gear to see if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged. Starter Reassembly
- Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B). NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
- While squeezing a brush spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it bottoms. Repeat this for the other three brush springs (D, E, and F).
- Install the armature and the brush holder assembly into the armature housing. NOTE: Make sure the armature stays in the holder.
See also:
• BATTERY TEST
• POWER RELAY TEST
• TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
• IGNITION SWITCH TEST
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• STATUS LOG
• FUEL PRESSURE TEST
• FUEL LINE INSPECTION
• FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
• THROTTLE BODY TEST
• ENGINE COMPRESSION INSPECTION
• CAM CHAIN REMOVAL
• RECONNECTION
• HOW TO USE THE HDS (HONDA DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM)
• DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• HDS CLEAR COMMAND
• STARTER PERFORMANCE TEST