Power Windows Acura MDX I

Scheme 88

System Description

The system is composed of the power window master switch, the power window control unit and the driver's window motor. The power window motor incorporates a pulser which generates pulses during the motor's operation and sends the pulses to the power window control unit. As soon as the power window control unit detects no pulses from the pulser, the control unit makes the power window motor stop and reverse. This is to prevent pinching your hand or fingers during auto-up operation.

Scheme 89

Resetting the power window control unit is required after performing the following procedures

1. Disconnecting the battery.
2. Removing the No. 8 (20 A) fuse from the under-hood subfuse box.
3. Disconnecting the 18P connector from the power window control unit.
4. Removing the window regulator, glass or glass run channel.
5. Disconnecting the driver's door wire harness.

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn the ignition ON (II).
3. Lower the driver's window all the way down by pushing the driver's switch to the second detent (AUTO DOWN) when the window reaches the bottom, hold the driver's window switch in the AUTO DOWN position for 2 seconds.
4. Raise the driver's window all the way up without stopping by pulling the driver's switch to the second detent (AUTO UP) when the window reaches the top, hold the driver's window switch in the AUTO UP position for 2 seconds. If the window does not work in AUTO, reset the power window control unit according to the above procedure again.

Scheme 90

Scheme 91

Scheme 92

Scheme 93

Control Unit Input Test

Note. If the power window cannot be operated by its own window switch, the problem is not a multiplex control unit. Troubleshoot power or ground to the window switch or motor.

Scheme 94

Scheme 95

1. Before testing the power window control functions, troubleshoot the multiplex control system (see «TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/communication-devices/#multiplex-control-system__troubleshooting) ).
2. Remove the passenger's multiplex control unit from the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box, and disconnect its connector.
3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
4. With the passenger's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 1 in «DRIVER'S UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) . CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (PASSENGER'S UNIT) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A24 Fuse/relay box socket Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 13 (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box A12 Fuse/relay box socket Jump A12 to battery voltage The power window relay should make a click sound and there should be 12 V to ground at fuses 7, 8 and 16. Faulty power window relay Poor ground (G651) Blown No. 51 (40 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box An open in the wire A8 Fuse/relay box socket Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. Poor ground (G651) An open in the wire A19 Fuse/relay box socket With power window main switch ON, jump A12 to battery voltage Check the front passenger's window motor operation: The window should go down. Poor ground (G601, G651) Blown No. 8 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window master switch Faulty front passenger's window switch Faulty window motor An open in the wire A18 A12 Fuse/relay box socket With power window main switch ON, jump A18 and A12 to battery voltage Check the front passenger's window motor operation: The window should go up. A7 A12 YEL/GRN With power window main switch ON, jump A7 and A12 to battery voltage Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go down. Poor ground (G601, G651) Blown No. 16 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window master switch Faulty right rear window switch Faulty window motor An open in the wire A6 YEL With power window main switch ON, jump A6 and A12 to battery voltage Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go up. C16 (1) GRN Front passenger's door open Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less. Faulty passenger's door switch An open in the wire A short to ground Front passenger's door closed Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. (1) Reconnect the passenger's multiplex control unit to the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box.

Scheme 96

Scheme 97

1. Remove the driver's multiplex control unit from the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box.
2. Inspect all connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
3. With the driver's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 4. CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DRIVER'S UNIT - DISCONNECTED - 1 OF 2) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A12 Fuse/relay box socket Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 13 (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire A14 Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. Poor ground (G401) An open in the wire
4. Remove the passenger's multiplex control unit from the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box and connect fuse/relay box socket terminal A12 to battery voltage. This turns the power window relay on.
5. With the driver's multiplex control unit still disconnected, make these input tests at the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box socket. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If the input test proves OK, go to step 6. CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DRIVER'S UNIT - DISCONNECTED - 2 OF 2) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A7 Fuse/relay box socket With power window main switch ON, jump A7 to battery voltage Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go up. Poor ground (G601, G651) Blown No. 7 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty left rear window switch Faulty power window master switch Faulty power window motor An open in the wire A19 Fuse/relay box socket With power window main switch ON, jump A19 to battery voltage Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go down. Poor ground (G601, G651) Blown No. 7 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty left rear window switch Faulty power window master switch Faulty power window motor An open in the wire
6. Reconnect the driver's multiplex control unit to the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box, turn the ignition switch ON (II) to keep the system awake, and perform the following input tests at the appropriate connectors on the back of the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box. For driver's under-dash fuse/relay box connector socket location (see «DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/body-electrical/#fuserelay-boxes__drivers-under-dash-fuserelay-box) ). If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 1 in «DOOR UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) . CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DRIVER'S UNIT - RECONNECTED) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained E3 GRN/ORN Driver's door open Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. Faulty driver's door switch An open in the wire Driver's door closed Check for voltage to ground: There should be 5 V or more. Faulty driver's door switch Short to ground in the wire

Scheme 98

Scheme 99

1. Remove the door multiplex control unit from the driver's door, and disconnect its connectors.
2. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
3. Reconnect the door multiplex control unit connector, and make these input tests at the connectors. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 4. CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DOOR UNIT - RECONNECTED) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained A1 WHT/YEL Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 13 (7.5 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty passenger's fuse/relay box An open in the wire A2 GRN/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 15 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty passenger's multiplex control unit Faulty power window relay Poor ground (G651) An open in the wire A12 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V. Poor ground (G401, G601) An open in the wire B1 A20 WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for continuity between the A20 and B2 terminals: There should be continuity. An open in the wire B2 WHT/RED
4. If all the input tests prove OK, one of the control units must be faulty. Substitute a known-good control unit for the one that is most likely at fault using the chart below, then check the system. If the system works properly, the original control unit is faulty; replace it. If there is still a malfunction, substitute a known-good control unit for the next most likely unit to be at fault, and recheck. If the system works properly, the original unit is faulty; replace it. CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (DOOR UNIT) Affected window Most likely control unit Driver's window Door multiplex control unit or power window control unit Front passenger's window from power window master switch Passenger's multiplex control unit Right rear window from power window master switch Passenger's multiplex control unit Left rear window from power window master switch Driver's multiplex control unit

Scheme 100

1. Remove the driver's door panel (see «FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#doors__front-door-panel-removalinstallation) ).
2. Disconnect the 18P connector (A) from the power window control unit (B).
3. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
4. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the connectors. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 5. POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTOR DISCONNECTED) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 1 BLK Under all conditions Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. Poor ground (G601) An open in the wire 8 WHT/BLU Under all conditions (1) Check for voltage to ground on terminal 7: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 8 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood subfuse box An open in the wire 7 GRN/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) and passenger's multiplex terminal A12 connected to battery voltage Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Blown No. 15 (20 A) fuse in the passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty power window relay An open in the wire A12 (2) Fuse/relay box cavity 13 BLK/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch UP Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. Faulty power window master switch An open in the wire 11 YEL/GRN Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch AUTO UP Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch AUTO DOWN 15 BLU/ORN Ignition switch ON (II) and driver's window switch DOWN 4 BLU/GRN Driver's window switch DOWN Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. Poor ground (G401, G601) Faulty power window master switch An open in the wire 4 BLU/GRN Driver's window switch OFF Check for continuity between the No. 4 and No. 14 terminals: There should be continuity. Faulty power window master switch An open in the wire 14 BLU/ORN 3 RED Connect the battery power to the No. 12 (+) and ground the No. 3 (-) terminals Check the driver's window motor: It should run (the window moves down). Faulty power window motor An open in the wire 12 GRN Connect the battery power to the No. 3 (+) and ground the No. 12 (-) terminals Check the driver's window motor: It should run (the window moves up). Faulty power window motor An open in the wire (1) Make sure the driver's door harness is connected (2) Passenger's multiplex control unit connector A
5. Reconnect the 18P connector to the power window control unit and reconnect the passenger's multiplex control unit, then make these input tests at the connector. If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system. If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it. POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT INPUT TEST (CONNECTORS RECONNECTED) Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained 17 GRN/YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage between the No. 17 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be battery voltage. Faulty power window motor Faulty pulser An open in the wire Faulty power window control unit 9 YEL/BLU 5 GRN/RED While operating the driver's window switch Check for voltage between the No. 5 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be pulse voltage 0-5 V (an analog voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately; a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage of about 2.5 V). 16 YEL/WHT While operating the driver's window switch Check for voltage between the No. 16 (+) and No. 9 (-) terminals: There should be pulse voltage 0-5 V (an analog voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately; a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage of about 2.5 V). 17 GRN/YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage between terminal No. 17 and body ground: There should be battery voltage. Faulty power window control unit Short to ground Faulty power window motor

Scheme 101

Scheme 102

1. Carefully pry off the driver's door switch trim (see «FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#doors__front-door-panel-removalinstallation) ).
2. Disconnect the power mirror and power window switch connectors (A).
3. Remove the four mounting screws, then remove the master switch (A) from the panel (B).

Scheme 103

Scheme 104

1. Carefully pry off the door switch trim (see «FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#doors__front-door-panel-removalinstallation) ).
2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the power window switch (B).
3. Remove the three mounting screws, then remove the power window switch (A) from the switch trim (B).
4. Swap the window switch with another known-good switch and test. If the original window switch is faulty, replace it.

Scheme 105

Scheme 106

1. Remove the driver's door panel (see «FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#doors__front-door-panel-removalinstallation) ).
2. Disconnect the 6P connector (A) from the window motor.
3. Test the motor in each direction by connecting battery power and ground according to (Scheme 106). When the motor stops running, disconnect one lead immediately.
4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, replace it.

Pulser Test

1. Reconnect the 6P connector to the window motor.
2. Check for voltage between the terminals: There should be battery voltage between the No. 6 (+) and No. 4 (-) terminals when the ignition switch ON (II).
3. If there is no battery voltage, check for an open in the wire.
4. Check the voltage between terminals: Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 5 (+) and No. 4 (-) terminals, and run the window motor at down or up. The voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately (a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage between 0-5 V). Connect an analog voltmeter between the No. 3 (+) and No. 4 (-) terminals, and run the window motor at down or up. The voltmeter needle should move back and forth alternately (a digital voltmeter should show the average voltage between 0-5 V).
5. If the voltmeter does not indicate as specified, replace the window motor.

Scheme 107

Scheme 108

1. Remove the passenger's door panel (see «FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#doors__front-door-panel-removalinstallation) ).
2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the window motor.
3. Test the motor by connecting battery power and ground according to (Scheme 108). When the motor stops running, disconnect one lead immediately.
4. If the motor does not run or fails to run smoothly, replace it.

See also:
• TROUBLESHOOTING
• DRIVER'S UNDER-DASH FUSE/RELAY BOX
• FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
• DRIVER'S UNIT