Driveline/axle Acura MDX I

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1. Check the inboard boot (A) and the outboard boot (B) on the driveshaft (C) for cracks, damage, leaking grease, and loose boot bands (D). If any damage is found, replace the boot and boot bands.
2. Turn the driveshaft by hand, and make sure the splines (E) and joint are not excessively loose.
3. Make sure the driveshaft is not twisted, bent, or cracked; if it is, replace it.

Special Tools Required

1. Ball joint remover, 32 mm 07MAC-SL0A102
2. Ball joint thread protector, 14 mm 071AF-S3VA100

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1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see «LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lift-and-support-points) ).
3. Remove the wheel nuts and front wheels.
4. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove, and discard the nut.
5. If the left driveshaft is removed, drain the transmission fluid (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ). It is not necessary to drain the transmission fluid when the right driveshaft is removed.
6. Remove the stabilizer link (A) from the damper (B).
7. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower arm ball joint castle nut (B), and remove the nut. NOTE: To avoid damaging the ball joint, install ball joint thread protector onto the threads of the ball joint. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when installing the remover.
8. Separate the ball joint from the lower arm (C) with the special tool (see «BALL JOINT REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/wheel-alignment/#front-suspension-and-rear-suspension__ball-joint-removal) ).
9. Pull the knuckle outward, and remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
10. Pry (left driveshaft)/tap (right driveshaft) the inboard joint (A), and remove the driveshaft from the differential case or bearing support as an assembly. Do not pull on the driveshaft (B); the inboard joint may come apart. Pull the driveshaft straight out to avoid damaging the differential oil seal or the intermediate shaft outer seal.

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Threaded adapter, 26 x 1.5 mm 07XAC-001030A

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1. Remove the set ring from the inboard joint (left driveshaft).
2. Remove the boot bands. Be careful not to damage the boot. If the boot band is a locking tab type (A), pry up the locking tab (B) with a screwdriver, and lift up the end of the band. If the boot band is a double loop type (C), lift up the band end (D), and push it into the clip (E). Locking tab type Double loop type
3. Make a mark (A) on each roller (B) and inboard joint (C) to identify the locations of rollers and grooves on the inboard joint. Then remove the inboard joint on the shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating them from the inboard joint.
4. Make a mark (A) on the rollers (B) and spider (C) to identify the locations of the rollers on the spider, then remove the rollers.
5. Remove the snap ring (D).
6. Mark the spider and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the spider on the shaft.
7. Remove the spider.
8. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the boot. Double loop type Locking tab type
9. Remove the inboard boot and boot band (B). Be careful not to damage the boot.
10. Remove the vinyl tape.

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1. Remove the boot bands (A). Lift up the three tabs (B) with a screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the boot.
2. Slide the outboard boot (A) partially to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to damage the boot.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race.
4. Make a mark (A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same position as the outboard joint end (C).
5. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
6. Remove the outboard joint (A) using the special tool and a commercially available 5/8"-18 UNF slide hammer (B).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
8. Remove the circlip from the driveshaft.
9. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the boot.
10. Remove the outboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot.
11. Remove the vinyl tape.

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Special Tools Required

1. Boot band tool, KD-3191 or equivalent, commercially available
2. Boot band pincers, Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent, commercially available

Note. Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure.

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1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the inboard boot. Double loop type Locking tab type
2. Install the inboard boot and boot band (B) on the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage the inboard boot.
3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (B) on the spider and the end of the driveshaft.
4. Fit the snap ring (C) into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the snap ring in its groove to make sure it is fully seated.
5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with their high shoulders facing outward, and note these items: Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the marks (C). Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.1
6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new driveshaft set. Grease quantity
7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft, and note these items: Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (A) on the inboard joint and the rollers. Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint points up to prevent it from falling off.
8. Install the boot bands. For the double loop type, go to step 9. (Boot band replacement only. For the locking tab type, go to step 18 .
9. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new double loop band (A) onto the boot.
10. Pull up the slack in the band by hand.
11. Mark a position (A) on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6 in.) from the clip (B).
12. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of a commercially available boot band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot on the winding mandrel (B).
13. Place a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, and tighten the band until the marked spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip.
14. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip.
15. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave a 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in.) tail protruding from the clip.
16. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer. NOTE: Make sure the band and clip do not interfere with anything, and the band does not move. Remove any grease remaining on the surrounding surfaces.
17. Repeat steps 12. through 16. for the band on the other end of the boot.
18. Install a new locking tab type boot band on the inboard joint side of the inboard boot. Fold down the locking tabs.
19. Lightly tap on the doubled-over portions to reduce their height.
20. Install a new set ring (left driveshaft).

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1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the outboard boot.
2. Install the new ear clamp bands (B) and outboard boot, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage the boot.
3. Install the new circlip in the driveshaft groove (A)
4. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the circlip (C) is closed.
5. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and tap them firmly from about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface. Do not use a hammer as excessive force may damage the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage the threaded section (A) of the outboard joint.
6. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) with the outboard joint end (B).
7. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the joint grease included in the new joint boot set. Grease quantity
8. Adjust the length of the driveshaft to these measurements, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. Make sure the ends of the boots seat in the grooves of the driveshaft and joint.
9. Fit the boot (A) ends onto the driveshaft (B) and outboard joint (C).
10. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with commercially available boot band pincers Kent-Moore J-35910 or equivalent (B).
11. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the clearance is not within the standard, close the ear portion of the band farther.
12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 for the band on the other end of the boot.

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1. Install a new set ring in the set ring groove of the driveshaft (left driveshaft).
2. Apply 2.0-3.0 g (0.07-0.10 oz) of grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until the set ring (D) locks into the groove (E).
4. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).
5. Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the new castle nut (D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening it. NOTE: Make sure the ball joint boot is not damaged or cracked.
6. Install the new lock pin (E) into the pin hole as shown.
7. Install the stabilizer link (A) to the damper (B).
8. Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
9. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the front wheel with the wheel nuts.
10. Turn the front wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
11. Tighten the flange bolts and the self-locking nut with the vehicle's weight on the damper.
12. Refill the transmission with recommended fluid (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).
13. Check the front wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see «WHEEL ALIGNMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/wheel-alignment/#front-suspension-and-rear-suspension__wheel-alignment) ).

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1. Drain the transmission fluid (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).
2. Remove the right driveshaft (see step 10 . ).
3. Remove the subframe stiffener (see step 32 in «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-removal) ).
4. Remove the exhaust pipe A (see step 33 in «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-removal) ).
5. Remove the exhaust pipe bracket (A), flange bolt (B), and two dowel bolts (C).
6. Remove the intermediate shaft (D) from the differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontally until it is clear of the differential to prevent damage to the differential oil seal.

Intermediate Shaft Disassembly

Special Tools Required

1. Driver 07749-0010000
2. Support base attachment 07LAF-SM40300
3. Support base 07965-SD90100
4. Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300

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1. Remove the heat shield.
2. Remove the intermediate shaft outer seal (A) from the bearing support (B).
3. Remove the set ring (C) and external snap ring (D).
4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using the special tools and a press. Be careful not to damage the metal rings (C) on the intermediate shaft during disassembly.
5. Remove the internal snap ring.
6. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using the special tools and a press.

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Special Tools Required

1. Driver 07749-0010000
2. Support base attachment 07LAF-SM40300
3. Support base 07965-SD90100
4. Oil seal driver attachment 07JAD-PH80101
5. Fork seal driver, 39.2 x 49.5 x 15 mm 07947-4630100

Note. Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure.

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1. Clean the disassembled parts with solvent, and dry them with compressed air. Do not wash the rubber parts with solvent.
2. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the bearing support (B) using the special tools and a press.
3. Install, then seat the internal snap ring in the groove of the bearing support.
4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) into the shaft bearing (B) using the special tool and a press.
5. Install, then seat the external snap ring (A) in the groove of the intermediate shaft (B).
6. Install the outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the special tools and a press.
7. Install the heat shield onto the bearing support.
8. Install the set ring.

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1. Use solvent or brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the areas where the intermediate shaft (A) contacts the transmission (differential) and dry with compressed air. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly into the differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontally to prevent damage to the differential oil seal.
2. Install the flange bolt (B), two dowel bolts (C), and exhaust pipe bracket (D).
3. Install the exhaust pipe A (see step 34 «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-installation) ).
4. Install the subframe stiffener (see step 35 «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-installation) ).
5. Install the right driveshaft (see «FRONT DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/axle-shafts/#drivelineaxle) ).
6. Refill the transmission with recommended fluid (see «ATF REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ).

Rear Driveshaft Removal

Special Tools Required

Driveshaft remover 07AAD-S9VA000

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1. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see «LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lift-and-support-points) ).
3. Drain the differential fluid (see «DIFFERENTIAL FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/differentials-drive-axles/#rear-differential) ).
4. Remove the wheel nuts and rear wheels.
5. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the spindle nut (B), then remove and discard the nut.
6. Remove the upper arm bolt (see «UPPER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension__upper-arm-removalinstallation) ).
7. Remove the rear damper (see «DAMPER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
8. Remove the lower arm B flange bolt (see «LOWER ARM B REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
9. Remove the VSA rear wheel sensor bracket (see «WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/anti-locktraction-control/#vsa-vehicle-stability-assist-system-components) ).
10. Pull the knuckle outward, and disconnect the rear driveshaft outboard joint from the rear wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
11. Remove the rear driveshaft outboard joint.
12. Using the special tool, pry out the inboard joint (A) from the differential (B). NOTE: This is a prying tool; do not strike it with a hammer.
13. Remove the rear driveshaft.

Rear Driveshaft Disassembly

Special Tools Required

Threaded adapter, 24 x 1.5 mm 07XAC-001020A

Inboard Joint Side

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1. Remove the boot bands. Be careful not to damage the boot. If the boot band is a locking tab type (A), pry up the locking tab (B) with a screwdriver, and lift up the end of the band. If the boot band is a double loop type (C), lift up the band end (D), and push it into the clip (E). Locking tab type Double loop type
2. Remove the circlip (A).
3. Make a mark (B) on the bearing retainer (C) and inboard joint (D) to identify the locations of ball bearings and grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove the inboard joint on the shop towel (E). Be careful not to drop the ball bearings when separating them from the inboard joint.
4. Remove the snap ring (A).
5. Make a mark (B) on the bearing retainer (C), the bearing race (D), and driveshaft (E) to identify the position of the bearing retainer and the bearing race on the shaft.
6. Remove the bearing race and the steel ball bearings (F).
7. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft (A) with vinyl tape (B) to prevent damage to the boot.
8. Remove the inboard boot (C) and locking tab type boot band (D). Be careful not to damage the boot.
9. Remove the vinyl tape.

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1. Remove the boot bands. Be careful not to damage the boot. If the boot band is a locking tab type (A), pry up the locking tab (B) with a screwdriver, and lift up the end of the band. If the boot band is a double loop type (C), lift up the band end (D), and push it into the clip (E). Locking tab type Double loop type
2. Slide the outboard boot (A) to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to damage the boot.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race.
4. Make a mark (A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same position of the outboard joint end (C).
5. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
6. Remove the outboard joint (A) using the special tool and a commercially available 5/8"-18 UNF slide hammer (B).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the vise.
8. Remove the circlip from the driveshaft.

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Special Tools Required

Boot band tool, KD-3191 or equivalent, commercially available

Note. Refer to the Exploded View as needed during this procedure.

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1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the inboard boot. Double loop type Locking tab type
2. Install the inboard boot and boot band (B) on the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage the inboard boot.
3. Install the steel balls (A) and the bearing retainer (B) onto the bearing race (C) by aligning the marks (D) on the bearing retainer and the bearing race.
4. Install the bearing onto the driveshaft (E) by aligning the marks on the bearing and the driveshaft.
5. Install the snap ring (F).
6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new driveshaft set. Grease quantity
7. Install the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the mark (A) on the inboard joint and driveshaft.
8. Install the circlip (B).
9. Adjust the length of the driveshaft to these measurements, then adjust the boots to halfway between full compression and full extension. Make sure the ends of the boots seat in the grooves of the driveshaft and joint. Left Driveshaft: 619.1-624.1 mm (24.4-24.6 in.) Right Driveshaft: 648.1-653.1 mm (25.5-25.7 in.)
10. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new double loop band (A) onto the boot.
11. Pull up the slack in the band by hand.
12. Mark a position (A) on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6 in.) from the clip (B).
13. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially available boot band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot on the winding mandrel (B).
14. Place a wrench on the winding mandrel of the boot band tool, and tighten the band until the marked spot (C) on the band meets the edge of the clip.
15. Lift up the boot band tool to bend the free end of the band 90 degrees to the clip. Center-punch the clip, then fold over the remaining tail onto the clip.
16. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in.) from the clip.
17. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer. NOTE: Make sure the band and clip do not interfere with anything, and the band does not move. Remove any grease remaining on the surrounding surfaces.
18. Install the boot band on the other end of the boot, and repeat steps 10 through 17 .
19. Install a new locking tab type boot band on the inboard joint side of the inboard boot. Fold down the locking tabs.
20. Lightly tap on the doubled-over portions to reduce their height.

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1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damage to the outboard boot. Double loop type Locking tab type
2. Install the outboard boot and boot bands (B) on the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage the outboard boot.
3. Install the new circlip in the driveshaft groove (A).
4. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the circlip (C) is closed.
5. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and tap them firmly from about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface. Do not use a hammer as excessive force may damage the driveshaft. Be careful not to damage the threaded section (A) of the outboard joint.
6. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) with the outboard joint end (B).
7. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the joint grease included in the new joint boot set. Grease quantity
8. Install a new locking tab type boot band on the outboard joint side of the outboard boot. Fold down the locking tabs.
9. Lightly tap on the doubled-over portions to reduce their height.
10. Install a double loop type boot band on the front driveshaft side of inboard boot (see step 9 . ).

Rear Driveshaft Installation

Note. Before starting installation, make sure the mating surfaces of the joint and the splined section are free from dirt or dust.

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1. Apply 1.5-2.0 g (0.05-0.07 oz) of grease to the whole splined surface (A). After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the differential.
2. Seat a new set ring in the set ring groove of the differential.
3. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) until the set ring (C) locks in the groove (D).
4. Install the driveshaft.
5. Install the outboard joint (A) into the rear hub (B).
6. Install the VSA rear wheel sensor bracket (see «WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/anti-locktraction-control/#vsa-vehicle-stability-assist-system-components) ).
7. Install the lower arm B flange bolt (see «LOWER ARM B REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
8. Install the rear damper (see «DAMPER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension) ).
9. Install the upper arm bolt (see «UPPER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/suspension-rear/#rear-suspension__upper-arm-removalinstallation) ).
10. Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
11. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the rear wheel, then install the rear wheel with the wheel nuts.
12. Turn the rear wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
13. Refill the differential with recommended fluid (see «DIFFERENTIAL FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/differentials-drive-axles/#rear-differential) ).
14. Check the rear wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary (see «WHEEL ALIGNMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/wheel-alignment/#front-suspension-and-rear-suspension__wheel-alignment) ).

Propeller Shaft Inspection

Universal Joint and Boots

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1. Shift the transmission to the N position.
2. Raise the vehicle off the ground, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see «LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lift-and-support-points) ).
3. Check the center support bearing (A) for excessive play or rattle. If the center support has excessive play or rattle, replace the propeller shaft assembly.
4. Check the universal joint boots for damage and deterioration. If the boots are damaged or deteriorated, replace the propeller shaft assembly.
5. Check the universal joints for excessive play or rattle. If the universal joints have excessive play or rattle, replace the propeller shaft assembly. Propeller Shaft Runout
6. Install a dial indicator with its needle on the center of No. 1 propeller shaft or No. 2 propeller shaft.
7. Turn the other propeller shaft slowly and check the runout. Repeat this procedure for the other propeller shaft.
8. If the runout on either propeller shaft exceeds the service limit, replace the propeller shaft assembly.

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1. Raise the vehicle off the ground, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations (see «LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/hoistjack/#general-information__lift-and-support-points) ).
2. Remove the No. 1 propeller shaft protector.
3. Remove the No. 2 propeller shaft protector.
4. Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and transfer companion flange (C).
5. Separate the propeller shaft from the transfer assembly.
6. Remove the center support bearing mounting bolts.
7. Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and rear differential companion flange (C).
8. Separate the propeller shaft from the rear differential, then remove the propeller shaft.

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1. Install the new propeller shaft (A) onto the rear differential (B), by aligning the reference marks (C).
2. Attach the propeller shaft (A) to the rear differential (B) with new mounting bolts.
3. Install the center support bearing mounting bolts. Make sure you use new bolts.
4. Install the propeller shaft (A) onto the transfer companion flange (B) by aligning the reference mark (C). Make sure you use new mounting bolts.
5. Install the No. 2 propeller shaft protector.
6. Install the No. 1 propeller shaft protector.

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) (If steering maintenance is required)

The Acura MDX SRS includes a driver's airbag in the steering wheel hub, a passenger's airbag in the dashboard above the glove box, seat belt tensioners in the front seat belt retractors, side curtain airbags in the sides of the roof, and side airbags in the front seat-backs. Information necessary to safely service the SRS is included in this Service Manual. Items marked with an asterisk (*) on the contents page include or are located near SRS components. Servicing, disassembling, or replacing these items requires special precautions and tools, and should be done only by an authorized Acura dealer.

1. To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or death in the event of a severe frontal or side collision, all SRS service work must be performed by an authorized Acura dealer.
2. Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of the SRS, could lead to personal injury caused by unintentional deployment of the airbags and/or side airbags.
3. Do not bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or roll rate sensor when the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF; otherwise, the system may fail in a collision, or the airbags may deploy.
4. SRS electrical connectors are identified by yellow color coding. Related components are located in the steering column, front console, dashboard, dashboard lower panel, in the dashboard above the glove box, in the front seats, in the roof side, and around the floor. Do not use electrical test equipment on these circuits.

See also:
• LIFT AND SUPPORT POINTS
• ATF REPLACEMENT
• BALL JOINT REMOVAL
• WHEEL ALIGNMENT
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
• DIFFERENTIAL FLUID INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
• UPPER ARM REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
• DAMPER REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
• WHEEL SENSOR INSPECTION
• FRONT DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION