Scheme 1
Scheme 2
How to Check for DTCs with the Honda Diagnostic System
When the powertrain control module (PCM) senses an abnormality in the input or output systems, the D5 indicator (A) in the gauge assembly (B) will usually blink.
Scheme 3
When the Honda diagnostic system (HAS) is connected to the data link connector (DLC) (A) (located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover) and the SCS mode is selected, it will indicate the diagnostic trouble code (DTC) when the ignition switch is turned ON (II) and the appropriate menu is selected.
Scheme 4
If the D5 indicator or malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, or if a driveability problem is suspected, follow this procedure
- Connect the HAS to the DLC. (See the HAS user's manual for specific instructions).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), select A/T system, and observe the DTC in the DTCs MENU on the HAS screen.
- Record all fuel and emissions DTCs, A/T DTCs, and freeze data.
- If there is a fuel and emissions DTC, first check the fuel and emissions system as indicated by the DTC (except for DTC P0700, DTC P0700 means there is one or more A/T DTCs, and no problems were detected in the fuel and emissions circuit of the PCM).
- Clear the DTC and data.
- Drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, and then recheck for a DTC. If the A/T DTC returns, go to the «DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__dtc-troubleshooting-index) . If the DTC does not return, there was an intermittent problem within the circuit. Make sure all pins and terminals in the circuit are tight.
Symptom Troubleshooting Versus DTC Troubleshooting
Some symptoms will not trigger diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) or cause the D indicator to blink. If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) was reported on or the D indicator has been blinking, check for DTCs. If the vehicle has an abnormal symptom, and there are no DTCs stored, go to the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX . Check the list of probable cause(s) for the symptom, in the sequence listed, until you find the problem.
How to Check for DTCs with the SCS Mode (retrieving the flash codes)
When the PCM senses an abnormality in the input or output system, the D5 indicator (A) in the gauge assembly (B) will usually blink.
Scheme 5
When the D5 indicator has been reported on, connect the HAS to the DLC (A) (located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover). Turn the ignition switch ON (II), select SCS mode, then the D5 indicator will indicate flash the DTC.
Scheme 6
If the D5 indicator and the MIL come on at the same time, or if a driveability problem is suspected, follow this procedure
Scheme 7
- Connect the HAS to the DLC. (See the HAS user's manual for specific instructions.)
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), select SCS mode, then observe the D5 indicator in the gauge assembly. Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks. Code 10 and above are indicated by a series of long and short blinks. One long blink equals 10 short blinks. Add the long and short blinks together to determine the code. Example: DTC 1-1
- Record all fuel and emissions DTCs and A/T DTCs.
- If there is a fuel and emissions DTC, first check the fuel and emissions system as indicated by the DTC (except DTC 70, DTC 70 means there is one or more A/T DTCs, and no problems were detected in the fuel and emissions circuit of the PCM).
- Clear the DTC and data.
- Drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, and then recheck for DTC. If the A/T DTC returns, go to the «DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__dtc-troubleshooting-index) . If the DTC does not return, there was an intermittent problem within the circuit. Make sure all pins and terminals in the circuit are tight.
How to Troubleshoot Circuits at the PCM
Special Tools Required
- Digital multimeter KS-AHM-32-003 (1) or a commercially available digital multimeter
- Pin probe (male) 07ZAJ-RDJA110 (two required)
- Flat spade probe (male) 07ZAJ-RDJA120
Scheme 8
- With the ignition switch ON (II), connect the HAS to the DLC, and into any of the live data screens.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Turn off the HAS and then turn it back ON. Go to the «SCS MODE»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__how-to-check-for-dtcs-with) and follow the screens to ground the DLC. NOTE: Steps 1 thru 3 must be done to protect the PCM from damage, or wait at least 60 minutes before disconnecting PCM connectors.
- Disconnect PCM connectors and probe the connector terminals from the terminal side of the connector. Make sure the connector terminal diameter, and select the suitable pin probe (male) and/or flat spade probe (male).
- Connect the patch cord terminals (A) to the digital multimeter (B), and connect the other terminals of the patch cords to the pin probe (male) (C) and/or flat spade probe (male) (C).
- Gently slide the probe into the connector terminals from the terminals side. Do not force the tips into the terminals.
Clear A/T DTCs, and PCM Reset Procedures
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Clear the DTC(s) on the HAS screen.
OBD Status
The OBD status shows the current system status of each DTC and all of the parameters. This function is used to see if the technician's repair was successfully finished. The result of diagnostic tests for the DTC are displayed as
- PASSED: On board diagnosis is successfully finished.
- FAILED: On board diagnosis has finished but failed.
- NOT COMPLETED: The on board diagnosis was running but is out of the enable conditions of the DTC.
PCM Updating and Substitution for Testing
Special Tools Required
Honda Interface Module (HIM) EQS05A35570
Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good PCM in a troubleshooting procedure. Update the PCM only if the PCM does not already have the latest software loaded.
Note. Do not turn the ignition switch OFF while updating the PCM. If you turn the ignition switch OFF before completion, the PCM can be damaged.
How to Update the PCM
Note. To ensure the latest program is installed, update a PCM whenever the PCM is substituted or replaced. You cannot update a PCM with the program it already has. It will only accept a new program. Before you update the PCM, make sure the vehicle's battery is fully charged. To prevent PCM damage, do not operate any electrical system; audio system, brakes, air conditioning, power windows, moon roof, and door locks, during the update. If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came on or was flashing during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
Scheme 9
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Do not start the engine.
- Connect the HAS or the Honda Interface Module (HIM) to the DLC located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
- Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HAS.
- Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS TEST.
- If the HAS does not have the update function, disconnect the HAS from the vehicle and connect the Honda Interface Module (HIM).
- If the software is the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HAS or the HIM from the DLC and go back to the procedure that you were doing. If the software in the PCM is not the latest, do the PCM update procedure as described on the HIM label or in the PCM update system. NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow what is shown in the screen.
- Do the PCM idle learn procedure (see «PCM IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/testing-diagnostics/#idle-control-system__pcm-idle-learn-procedure) ).
- Clear the CKP pattern with the HAS while the engine is stopped.
How to Substitute the PCM
- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Remove the PCM, and install a known-good PCM.
- Rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HAS; this will allow you to start the engine.
- After completing your test, reinstall the original PCM, and rewrite the immobilizer code with the PCM replacement procedure in the HAS again.
How to Remove and Install the PCM
- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connectors.
- Remove the PCM.
- Install the PCM in the reverse order of the removal.
How to End a Troubleshooting Session
This procedure must be done after any troubleshooting.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Clear the DTC(s) on the HAS screen.
- Start the engine in the P or N position, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- To verify that the problem is repaired, test-drive the vehicle for several minutes at speeds over 30 mph (50 km/h) or in freeze data range.
DTC CODES
| DTC | Description |
|---|---|
| DTC P0705 | Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input) |
| DTC P0706 | Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit |
| DTC P0711 | Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit |
| DTC P0712 | Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit |
| DTC P0713 | Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit |
| DTC P0716 | Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit |
| DTC P0717 | Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input) |
| DTC P0718 | Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure |
| DTC P0721 | Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit |
| DTC P0722 | Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input) |
| DTC P0723 | Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure |
| DTC P0731 | Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit |
| DTC P0732 | Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit |
| DTC P0733 | Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit |
| DTC P0734 | Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit |
| DTC P0735 | Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit |
| DTC P0741 | Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0746 | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0747 | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON |
| DTC P0751 | Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0752 | Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON |
| DTC P0756 | Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0757 | Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON |
| DTC P0761 | Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0762 | Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0776 | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0777 | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON |
| DTC P0780 | Problem in Shift Control System |
| DTC P0847 | Short in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON |
| DTC P0848 | Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0872 | Short in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON |
| DTC P0873 | Open in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF |
| DTC P0962 | Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit |
| DTC P0963 | Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A |
| DTC P0966 | Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit |
| DTC P0967 | Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B |
| DTC P0970 | Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit |
| DTC P0971 | Short in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C |
| DTC P0973 | Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit |
| DTC P0974 | Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit |
| DTC P0976 | Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit |
| DTC P0977 | Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit |
| DTC P0979 | Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit |
| DTC P0980 | Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit |
| DTC P1710 | 1st-hold Switch Stuck ON or Short in 1st-hold Switch Circuit |
| DTC P2769 | Short in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit |
| DTC P2770 | Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit |
DTC CHART
DTC Troubleshooting Index
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
Scheme 10
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
Scheme 11
Symptom Troubleshooting Index
| Symptom | Probable cause(s) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| When you turn the ignition switch ON (II), the D5 indicator comes on and stays on in all shift lever positions, or it never comes on at all | A problem in the D5 indicator circuit | Check the D5 indicator circuit (see D5 INDICATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). |
| Shift lever cannot be moved from P while you are pressing on the brake pedal | A problem in the shift lock system of the interlock system | Check the interlock system - shift lock system circuit (see SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). |
| Ignition switch cannot be moved from ACC (I) to LOCK (0) (key is pushed in, shift lever in P) | A problem in the key interlock system of the interlock system | Check the interlock system - key interlock system circuit (see KEY INTERLOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). |
| Shift lever cannot pass through R from N | A problem in the reverse lock system of the interlock system | Check the interlock system - reverse lock system circuit (see REVERSE LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). |
| When you turn the ignition switch ON (II), the A/T TEMP indicator comes on and stays on or never comes on at all | A problem in the A/T TEMP indicator circuit | Check the A/T TEMP indicator circuit (see A/T TEMP INDICATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING ). |
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
| Symptom | Probable cause(s) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Engine runs, but vehicle does not move in any gear | Low ATF level Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn ATF pump worn or binding Regulator valve stuck or spring worn ATF strainer clogged Mainshaft worn or damaged Final gears worn or damaged Park mechanism defective Transmission-to-engine assembly error Axle disengaged | Check the ATF level and check the ATF cooler lines for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Check the line pressure. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. Inspect the differential pinion gears for wear. If the differential pinion gears are worn, replace the differential assembly, replace the ATF strainer, and thoroughly clean the transmission, and clean the cooler and lines. Replace the torque converter. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will result in ATF pump seizure if not detected. Use the proper tools. Install the main seal flush with the torque converter housing. If you push it into the torque converter housing until it tops out, it will block the fluid return passage and result in damage. |
| Vehicle moves in R, but not in D5, D4, D3, 2, or 1 | 1st accumulator defective Idler gears worn or damaged 1st clutch defective | Check the 1st clutch pressure. Inspect the secondary shaft and 1st/1st-hold clutch assembly for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Vehicle moves in 2 and R, but not in D5, D4, D3, or 1 | 1st gear one-way clutch defective 1st gears worn or damaged 1st clutch defective | Check the 1st clutch pressure. Inspect the secondary shaft and 1st/1st-hold clutch assembly for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Vehicle moves in D5, D4, D3, 2, and R, but not in 1 | 1st-hold accumulator defective 1st-hold clutch defective | Check the 1st-hold clutch pressure. Inspect the secondary shaft and 1st/1st-hold clutch assembly for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Vehicle moves in D5, D4, D3, 1, and R, but not in 2 | 2nd accumulator defective 2nd clutch defective | Check the 2nd clutch pressure. Inspect the secondary shaft and 2nd clutch assembly for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Vehicle moves in D5, D4, D3, 2, and 1, but not in R (or moves forward in R) | Shift fork shaft stuck Modulator valve defective Reverse CPC valve defective 5th accumulator defective 5th clutch defective Reverse gears worn or damaged | Check the line pressure and 5th clutch pressure. Check for a missing shift fork bolt on the shift fork shaft. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the ATF strainer is clogged with particles of steel or aluminum, inspect the ATF pump. If the ATF pump is OK, find the damaged components that caused the debris. If no cause for the contamination is found, replace the torque converter. Inspect the reverse selector gear teeth chambers, and inspect the engagement teeth chambers of the countershaft 5th gear and reverse gear. Replace the reverse gears and the reverse selector if they are worn or damaged. If the transmission makes clicking, grinding, or whirring noises, also replace the mainshaft 5th gear, reverse idler gear, and countershaft 5th gear. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clearance with the clutch end plate. |
| Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D5, D4, D3, and R | Low ATF level Shift cable broken or out of adjustment ATF pump worn or binding Regulator valve stuck or spring worn ATF strainer clogged Torque converter check valve defective | Check the ATF level and check the ATF cooler lines for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Check the line pressure. Check the ATF strainer for debris. If the strainer is clogged, find the damaged components that caused the debris. Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptom is mostly an rpm-ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. Be careful not to damage the torque converter housing when replacing the main ball bearing. You may also damage the ATF pump when you torque down the main valve body. This will result in ATF pump seizure if not detected. Use the proper tools. |
| Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D5, D4, D3, and R; stall speed high in D5, D4, D3, 2, and 1 | 1st accumulator defective 1st clutch defective | Check the 1st clutch pressure. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D5, D4, D3, and R; stall speed high in 2 | 2nd accumulator defective 2nd clutch defective | Check the 2nd clutch pressure. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D5, D4, D3, and R; stall speed high in R | Shift solenoid valve C defective Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Reverse CPC valve defective 5th accumulator defective 5th clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve seizure. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Check the 5th clutch pressure. Inspect the clutch piston and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Poor acceleration; flares when starting off in D5, D4, D3, and R; stall speed low | Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective Torque converter one-way clutch defective Engine output low Torque converter clutch piston defective Lock up shift valve defective | Check for a stuck lock up valve in the valve body. |
| Engine idle vibration | Low ATF level Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled Engine output low Torque converter clutch piston defective ATF pump worn or binding Lock up shift valve defective | Set the idle RPM in gear to the specified idle speed. If it is still no good, adjust the engine and transmission mounts. Check the ATF level and check the ATF cooler lines for leakage and loose connections. If necessary, clean the ATF cooler lines. |
| Vehicle moves in N | Excessive ATF Foreign material in separator plate orifice Relief valve defective Lubrication control valve defective 1st-hold clutch defective 1st clutch defective 2nd clutch defective 3rd clutch defective 4th clutch defective 5th clutch defective Clutch end plate clearance incorrect Needle bearing seized up, worn, or damaged Thrust washer seized up, worn, or damaged | Check the ATF level, and drain the ATF if necessary. Check all clutch pressures. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Late shift after shifting from N to D5, D4, and D3, or excessive shock when shifting | Shift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective ATF temperature sensor defective CPC valve A defective CPC valve B defective CPC valve C stuck Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective Shift valve E defective Servo control valve defective 1st accumulator defective 1st check ball stuck One-way check ball stuck 1st clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Check the 1st clutch pressure. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Late shift after shifting from N to R, or excessive shock when shifting | Shift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective ATF temperature sensor defective Shift fork shaft stuck CPC valve C stuck Reverse CPC valve defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve E defective 5th accumulator defective 5th clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Check the 5th clutch pressure. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch piston check valve, and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| The A/T does not shift | Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective Modulator valve defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Check the line pressure. |
| Erratic shifting: fails to shift in D5, D4, and D3; starts off in 5th | Shift solenoid valve B defective Shift valve B defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. |
| Erratic shifting: fails to shift in 2; starts off in 4th | Shift solenoid valve B defective Shift valve B defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. |
| Erratic shifting: fails to shift in D5, D4, D3, and 1; starts off in 3rd | Shift solenoid valve A defective Shift valve A defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. |
| Erratic shifting: fails to shift in 2; starts off in 1st | Shift solenoid valve A defective Shift valve A defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-ring, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. |
| Excessive shock or flares on all upshifts and downshifts | A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A defective Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective ATF temperature sensor defective CPC valve A defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve body gasket and ATF feed pipes for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. Inspect the sensor O-rings. |
| Excessive shock or flares on 1-2 upshift or 2-1 downshift | Foreign material in separator plate orifice 2nd accumulator defective 2nd check ball stuck 2nd clutch defective | Check the 1st and 2nd clutch pressures. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch check valve, and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Excessive shock or flares on 2-3 upshift or 3-2 downshift | Shift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch defective CPC valve B defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective 2nd accumulator defective 3rd accumulator defective 2nd check ball stuck 2nd clutch defective 3rd clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-rings, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. Check for clogged orifice in the transmission fluid pressure switch connector. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the connector. Check the 2nd and 3rd clutch pressures. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch check valve and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Excessive shock or flares on 3-4 upshift or 4-3 downshift | Shift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch defective CPC valve B defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective 3rd accumulator defective 4th accumulator defective 3rd clutch defective 4th clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-rings, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. Check for clogged orifice in the transmission fluid pressure switch connector. If the orifice is clogged, remove it and clean the connector. Check the 3rd and 4th clutch pressures. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch check valve and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Excessive shock or flares on 4-5 upshift or 5-4 downshift | Shift solenoid valve C defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective CPC valve B defective CPC valve C defective Foreign material in separator plate orifice Shift valve C defective Shift valve E defective Kick down valve or kick down short valve defective 4th accumulator defective 5th accumulator defective 4th clutch defective 5th clutch defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the O-rings, and check the shift solenoid valve for seizure. Check the 4th and 5th clutch pressures. Inspect the clutch piston, clutch check valve and O-rings. Check the spring retainer for wear and damage. Inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance. If the clearance is out of tolerance, inspect the clutch discs and plates for wear and damage. If the discs and plates are worn or damaged, replace them as a set. If they are OK, adjust the clutch end plate clearance. |
| Noise from transmission in all shift lever positions | ATF pump worn or binding Idler gears worn or damaged Thrust washer seized up, worn, or damaged | Improper alignment of ATF pump and torque converter housing may cause ATF pump seizure. The symptoms are mostly an rpm-related ticking noise or a high pitched squeak. |
| Vehicle does not accelerate above 31 mph (50 km/h) | Torque converter one-way clutch defective | Replace torque converter. |
| Vibration in all shift lever positions | Drive plate defective or transmission misassembled | Set the idle RPM in gear to the specified idle speed. If still no good, adjust the engine and transmission mounts. Check the stall speed. |
| Shift lever does not operate smoothly | Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch is faulty, replace it. If the transmission range switch is out of adjustment, adjust it and the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. |
| Transmission does not shift into P | Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn Park mechanism defective | Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control lever. Check the park pawl, control shaft, and park lever link for wear and damage. Check if the control shaft lever pin is disengage from the manual valve guide. |
| Torque converter clutch does not disengage | Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Torque converter clutch piston defective Lock up shift valve defective Lock up control valve defective Lock up timing valve defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C body gasket for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. |
| Torque converter clutch does not operate smoothly | Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Lock up clutch piston defective Torque converter check valve defective Lock up shift valve defective Lock up control valve defective Lock up timing valve defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C body gasket for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. Center all engine mounts. |
| Torque converter clutch does not engage | Torque converter clutch solenoid valve defective A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C defective Input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor defective Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective Torque converter clutch piston defective Torque converter check valve defective Lock up shift valve defective Lock up control valve defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C body gasket for wear and damage. If the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is stuck, inspect the CPC valves. |
| AT gear position indicator does not indicate shift lever positions | Transmission range switch defective or out of adjustment Shift cable broken or out of adjustment Connection between shift cable and transmission or body is worn | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. Inspect the transmission range switch. If the transmission range switch is faulty, replace it. If the transmission range switch is out of adjustment, adjust it and the shift cable. Check for a loose shift cable at the shift lever and the transmission control shaft. |
| Speedometer and odometer do not work | Output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor defective | Check the D5 indicator, and check for loose connectors. |
| Engine does not rev to high RPM, and the transmission upshifts at low RPM (engine at normal operating temperature) | VTEC rocker arms defective | Check the engine rocker arms. |
SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
General Operation
The automatic transmission is a combination of a 3-element torque converter and four-shaft electronically controlled unit which provides 5 speeds and 1 reverse. The entire unit is positioned in line with the engine.
Torque Converter, Shafts, Gears, and Clutches
The torque converter consists of a pump, turbine, and stator assembly in a single unit. The converter housing (pump) is connected to the engine crankshaft and turns as the engine turns. Around the outside of the torque converter is a ring gear which meshes with the starter pinion when the engine is being started. The entire torque converter assembly serves as a flywheel, transmitting power to the transmission mainshaft. The transmission has four parallel shafts: the mainshaft, the countershaft, the secondary shaft, and the intermediary shaft. The mainshaft is in line with the engine crankshaft. The mainshaft includes the 4th and 5th clutches, and gears for 3rd, 4th, 5th, and reverse (reverse gear is integral with the 5th gear). The countershaft includes gears for the final drive, 2nd, idler, 1st, 4th, 5th, and reverse (the final drive gear is integral with the countershaft). The secondary shaft includes the 1st, 1st-hold, and 2nd clutches, and gears for park, 2nd, idler, and 1st. The intermediary shaft includes the 3rd clutch, and gears for 3rd and 4th. The countershaft 5th gear and the countershaft reverse gear can be locked to the countershaft at its left end, providing 5th gear or reverse, depending with which way the selector is moved. The gears on the mainshaft, secondary shaft, and intermediary shaft are in constant mesh with those on the countershaft. When certain conditions of gears in the transmission are engaged by the clutches, power is transmitted through the mainshaft, and/or to the secondary shaft, intermediary shaft, then to the countershaft to provide drive.
Electronic Control
The electronic control system consists of the powertrain control module (PCM), sensors, and seven solenoid valves. Shifting and lock up are electronically controlled for comfortable driving under all conditions. The PCM is located in the engine compartment.
Hydraulic Control
The valve bodies include the main valve body, the secondary valve body, the regulator valve body, and the accumulator body. They are bolted to the torque converter housing. The main valve body contains the manual valve, the modulator valve, the torque converter check valve, the shift valves A, B, D, E, the CPC valve C, the cooler check valve, the relief valve, the lock up shift valve, the lock up timing valve, the lubrication control valve, the lubrication check valve, and the ATF pump gears. The secondary valve body contains the shift valve C, the CPC valve A, B, the reverse CPC valve, the servo control valve, and the kick down valve. The regulator valve body contains the regulator valve, the lock up control valve, and the 3rd accumulator. The accumulator body contains the 1st, 1st-hold, 2nd, 4th, and 5th accumulators, shift solenoid valves A, B, C, and torque converter clutch solenoid valve. Fluid from the regulator passes through the manual valve to the various control valves. The all clutches receive fluid from the internal hydraulic circuit.
Shift Control Mechanism
To shift gears, the PCM controls shift solenoid valves A, B, and C, and automatic transaxle (A/T) clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B, while receiving input signals from various sensors and switches located throughout the vehicle. The shift solenoid valves shift the positions of the shift valves to switch the port to send hydraulic pressure to the clutches. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B control the CPC valve A and B to shift smoothly between lower gear and higher gear. This pressurize a line to one of the clutches, engaging the clutch and its corresponding gear.
Lock up Mechanism
The lock up mechanism operates in the D5 position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), and D4 position (2nd, 3rd, and 4th) and D3 position (2nd and 3rd). The pressurized fluid is drained from the back of the torque converter through a fluid passage, causing the torque converter clutch piston to be held against the torque converter cover. As this takes place, the mainshaft rotates at the same speed as the engine crankshaft. Together with hydraulic control, the PCM optimizes the timing of the lock up mechanism. When the torque converter clutch solenoid valve activates, modulator pressure changes to switch lock up on and off. The lock up control valve and the lock up timing valve control the range of lock up according to A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. The torque converter clutch solenoid valve is located on the accumulator body in the transmission, and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C is mounted on the transmission housing. They are all controlled by the PCM.
Gear Selection
The shift lever has eight positions; P: PARK, R: REVERSE, N: NEUTRAL, D5: 1st through 5th gear ranges, D4: 1st through 4th gear ranges, D3: 1st through 3rd gear ranges, 2: 2nd gear, and 1: 1st gear.
| Position | Description |
|---|---|
| P: PARK | Front wheels locked; park pawl engaged with park gear on countershaft. All clutches are released. |
| R: REVERSE | Reverse; reverse selector engaged with countershaft reverse gear and 5th clutch locked. |
| N: NEUTRAL | All clutches are released. |
| D5: DRIVE (1st through 5th) | General driving; starts off in 1st, shifts automatically to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, then 5th, depending on vehicle speed and throttle position. Downshifts through 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st on deceleration to stop. The lock up mechanism operates in 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. |
| D4: DRIVE (1st through 4th) | General driving; starts off in 1st, shifts automatically to 2nd, 3rd, then 4th, depending on vehicle speed and throttle position. Downshifts through 3rd, 2nd, and 1st on deceleration to stop. The lock up mechanism operates in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear. |
| D3: DRIVE (1st through 3rd) | Used for rapid acceleration at highway speeds and general driving; uphill and downhill driving; starts off in 1st, shifts automatically to 2nd, then 3rd, depending on vehicle speed and throttle position. Downshifts through 2nd to 1st on deceleration to stop. The lock up mechanism operates in 2nd and 3rd gear. |
| 2: SECOND | Used for engine braking or better traction starting off on loose or slippery surfaces; stays in 2nd gear; does not shift up or down. |
| 1: FIRST | Used for engine braking; stays in 1st gear; does not shift up. |
GEAR SELECTION POSITION DESCRIPTION
Starting is possible only in the P and N positions because of a slide-type neutral-safety switch.
The A/T gear position indicator in the instrument panel shows which shift lever position has been selected without having to look down at the console.
Transfer Mechanism
The transfer mechanism consists of the transfer drive gear on the differential, the transfer output shaft in the transmission, the transfer drive gear (hypoid gear), the transfer shaft, the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear), and the companion flange. The transfer mechanism assembly is on the rear side of the transmission, beside the differential. The transfer drive gear on the differential drives the transfer output shaft in the transmission. The transfer output shaft in the transmission is connected to the transfer drive gear (hypoid gear) by splines. Power is transmitted from the transfer drive gear on the differential to the rear differential via the transfer and the propeller shaft.
Clutches
The 5-speed automatic transmission uses hydraulically-actuated clutches to engage or disengage the transmission gears. When hydraulic pressure is introduced into the clutch drum, the clutch piston moves. This presses the friction discs and steel plates together, locking them so they don't slip. Power is then transmitted through the engaged clutch pack to its hub-mounted gear. Likewise, when the hydraulic pressure is bled from the clutch pack, the piston releases the friction discs and the steel plates, and they are free to slide past each other. This allows the gear to spin independently on its shaft, transmitting no power.
1st Clutch
The 1st clutch engages/disengages 1st gear, and is located at the left end of the secondary shaft. The 1st clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure by its ATF feed pipe within the secondary shaft.
1st-hold Clutch
The 1st-hold clutch engages/disengages 1st-hold in 1 position, and is located in the 1st clutch drum. The 1st-hold clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure by its ATF feed pipe within the secondary shaft.
2nd Clutch
The 2nd clutch engages/disengages 2nd gear, and is located at the right end of the secondary shaft. The 2nd clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the secondary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.
3rd Clutch
The 3rd clutch engages/disengages 3rd gear, and is located at the end of the intermediary shaft. The 3rd clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the intermediary shaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.
4th Clutch
The 4th clutch engages/disengages 4th gear, and is located at the middle of the mainshaft. The 4th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 5th clutch. The 4th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the mainshaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.
5th Clutch
The 5th clutch engages/disengages 5th gear, as well as reverse gear, and is located at the middle of the mainshaft. The 5th clutch is joined back-to-back to the 4th clutch. The 5th clutch is supplied hydraulic pressure through the mainshaft by a circuit connected to the internal hydraulic circuit.
One-way Clutch
The one-way clutch is positioned between the 1st clutch hub and the secondary shaft 1st gear. The secondary shaft 1st gear is splined to the 1st-hold clutch hub, with the 1st-hold clutch hub splined to the secondary shaft. The secondary shaft 1st gear provides the outer race surface, and the 1st clutch hub provides the inner race surface. The one-way clutch locks when power is transmitted from the secondary shaft 1st gear to the countershaft 1st gear. The 1st clutch and gears remain engaged in the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear ranges in the D5, D4, D3, or 2 position. However, the one-way clutch disengages when the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th clutches and gears are applied in the D5, D4, D3, or 2 position. This is because the increased rotational speed of the gears on the secondary shaft causes the one-way clutch to free-wheel with the 1st clutch still engaged.
Power Flow
Note. The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 12
Gear Operation
Gears on the mainshaft
- 4th gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 4th clutch.
- 5th gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 5th clutch.
- Reverse gear is engaged/disengaged with the mainshaft by the 5th clutch.
- 3rd gear is splined with the mainshaft and rotates with the mainshaft.
Gears on the countershaft
- Final gear is integral with the countershaft.
- 1st gear, 2nd gear, and 4th gear are splined with the countershaft, and rotate with the countershaft.
- 5th gear and reverse gear rotate freely from the countershaft. The reverse selector engages 5th gear and reverse gear with the reverse selector hub. The reverse selector hub is splined to the countershaft so 5th gear and reverse gear engage with the countershaft.
- Idler gear is located over the 2nd gear, and rotates freely from the countershaft.
Gears on the secondary shaft
- 1st gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 1st clutch. 1st gear is engaged with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch and the 1st-hold clutch when decelerating for engine braking.
- 2nd gear is engaged/disengaged with the secondary shaft by the 2nd clutch.
- Idler gear is splined with the secondary shaft, and rotates with the secondary shaft.
- Park gear is integral with the 2nd gear.
Gears on the intermediary shaft
- 3rd gear is engaged/disengaged with the intermediary shaft by the 3rd clutch.
- 4th gear is splined with the intermediary shaft.
P Position
Hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches. Power is not transmitted to the countershaft. The countershaft is locked by the park pawl interlocking the park gear.
N Position
Engine power transmitted from the mainshaft drives the mainshaft 3rd gear, the intermediary shaft 3rd gear, but hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches. Power is not transmitted to the countershaft. In this position, the position of the reverse selector differs according to whether the shift lever shifted from the D5 or R position
Scheme 13
- When shifted from the D5 position, the reverse selector engages with the countershaft 5th gear and the reverse selector hub, and the 5th gear engages with the countershaft.
- When shifted from the R position, the reverse selector engages with the countershaft reverse gear and the reverse selector hub, and the reverse gear engages with the countershaft. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
1 Position
In the 1 position, hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch and the 1st-hold clutch. The power flow when accelerating is as follows
Scheme 14
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch, then the 1st clutch engages the secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch.
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st-hold clutch, and the 1st-hold clutch engages the secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft.
- The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the secondary shaft via the countershaft idler gear and the secondary shaft idler gear.
- The secondary shaft 1st gear drives the countershaft 1st gear and the countershaft.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
The power flow when decelerating is as follows
Scheme 15
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch and the 1st-hold clutch. Rolling resistance from the road surface goes through the front wheels to the final drive gear, then to the countershaft idler gear.
- The one-way clutch disengages because the application of torque is reversed.
- The force conveyed to the secondary shaft idler gear turns the mainshaft 3rd gear via the countershaft idler gear. As a result, engine braking can be obtained with 1st gear. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
D5, D4, or D3 Position
In the D5, D4, or D3 position, the optimum gear is automatically selected from the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears according to conditions such as the balance between the throttle opening (engine loading) and vehicle speed.
Scheme 16
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 1st clutch, then the 1st clutch engages the secondary shaft 1st gear with the secondary shaft by the one-way clutch.
- The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the secondary shaft via the countershaft idler gear and secondary shaft idler gear.
- The secondary shaft 1st gear drives the countershaft 1st gear and the countershaft.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 17
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 2nd clutch, then the 2nd clutch engages the secondary shaft 2nd gear with the secondary shaft.
- The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the secondary shaft via the countershaft idler gear and secondary shaft idler gear.
- The secondary shaft 2nd gear drives the countershaft 2nd gear and the countershaft.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of 2nd gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 18
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 3rd clutch, then 3rd clutch engages the intermediary shaft 3rd gear with the intermediary shaft.
- The mainshaft 3rd gear drives the intermediary shaft 4th gear via the 3rd gear and 3rd clutch.
- The intermediary shaft 4th gear drives the countershaft 4th gear and the countershaft via the mainshaft 4th gear.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of 3rd gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 19
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the 4th clutch, then the 4th clutch engages the mainshaft 4th gear with the mainshaft.
- The mainshaft 4th gear drives the countershaft 4th gear and the countershaft.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of 4th gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 20
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the servo valve to engage the reverse selector with the countershaft 5th gear while the shift lever in the forward range (D5, D4, D3, 2, and 1 positions).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 5th clutch, then the 5th clutch engages the mainshaft 5th gear with the mainshaft.
- The mainshaft 5th gear drives the countershaft 5th gear, which drives the reverse selector hub and the countershaft.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 1st clutch, but since the rotation speed of 5th gear exceeds that of 1st gear, power from 1st gear is cut off at the one-way clutch. NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Scheme 21
- Hydraulic pressure is applied to the servo valve to engage the reverse selector with the countershaft (reverse gear while the shift lever is in R position).
- Hydraulic pressure is also applied to the 5th clutch, then the 5th clutch engages the mainshaft reverse gear with the mainshaft.
- The mainshaft reverse gear drives the countershaft reverse gear via the reverse idler gear.
- The rotation direction of the countershaft reverse gear is changed via the reverse idler gear.
- The countershaft reverse gear drives the countershaft via the reverse selector which drives the reverse selector hub.
- Power is transmitted to the final drive gear, which in turn drives the final driven gear and the transfer drive gear.
- The transfer output shaft drives the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). NOTE: The illustration shows the 2005-2006 models; 2003-2004 models are similar.
Functional Diagram
The electronic control system consists of the powertrain control module (PCM), sensors, and solenoid valves. Shifting and lock up are electronically controlled for comfortable driving under all conditions.
The PCM receives input signals from the sensors, switches, and other control units, processes data, and outputs signals for the engine control system and A/T control system. The A/T control system includes shift control, grade logic control, clutch pressure control, and lock up control. The PCM switches the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves to control shifting transmission gears and lock up torque converter clutch.
Scheme 22
Scheme 23
Shift Control
The PCM instantly determines which gear should be selected by various signals sent from sensors and switches, and it actuates the shift solenoid valves A, B, and C to control shifting.
Also, a grade logic control system has been adopted to control shifting in the D5, D4, and D3 positions. The PCM compares actual driving conditions with programmed driving conditions, based on the input from the throttle position sensor, the engine coolant temperature sensor, the barometric pressure sensor, the brake pedal position switch signal, and the shift lever position signal, to control shifting while the vehicle is ascending or descending a slope.
Scheme 24
The PCM turns on the shift solenoid valves A, B, and C to control shifting transmission gear. The combination of driving signals to shift solenoid valves A, B, and C are shown in the table.
| Position | Gear position | Shift solenoid valves | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | B | C | ||
| D5, D4, D3 | Shifting from the N position | OFF | ON | OFF |
| Stays in 1st | ON | ON | ON | |
| Shifting gears between 1st and 2nd | ON | ON | ON | |
| Stays in 2nd | ON | ON | OFF | |
| Shifting gears between 2nd and 3rd | OFF | ON | OFF | |
| Stays in 3rd | OFF | ON | ON | |
| D5, D4 | Shifting gears between 3rd and 4th | OFF | OFF | ON |
| Stays in 4th | OFF | OFF | OFF | |
| D5 | Shifting gears between 4th and 5th | ON | OFF | OFF |
| Stays in 5th | ON | OFF | ON | |
| 2 | 2nd | ON | ON | OFF |
| 1 | 1st | ON | ON | ON |
| R | Shifting from the P and N position | OFF | ON | ON |
| Stays in reverse | OFF | ON | OFF | |
| Reverse inhibit | ON | ON | ON | |
| P | Park | OFF | ON | OFF |
| N | Neutral | OFF | ON | OFF |
SHIFT SOLENOID VALVES
Ascending Control
When the PCM determines that the vehicle is climbing a hill in the D5, D4, and D3 positions, the system extends the engagement area of 2nd gear, 3rd gear, and 4th gear to prevent the transmission from frequently shifting between 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, and between 4th and 5th gears, so the vehicle can run smooth and have more power when needed.
Note. Shift schedules stored in the PCM between 2nd and 3rd gears, between 3rd and 4th gears, and between 4th and 5th gears, enable the PCM to automatically select the most suitable gear according to the magnitude of a gradient.
Scheme 25
Descending Control
When the PCM determines that the vehicle is going down a hill in the D5, D4, and D3 positions, the shift-up speed from 4th to 5th gear, 3rd to 4th gear, and from 2nd to 3rd (when the throttle is closed) becomes faster than the set speed for flat road driving to widen the 4th gear, 3rd gear, and 2nd gear driving areas. This, in combination with engine braking from the deceleration lock up, achieves smooth driving when the vehicle is descending. There are three descending modes with different 4th gear driving areas, 3rd gear driving areas and 2nd gear driving areas according to the magnitude of a gradient stored in the PCM. When the vehicle is in 5th or 4th gear and you are decelerating while applying the brakes on a steep hill, the transmission will downshift to a lower gear. When you accelerate, the transmission will then return to a higher gear.
Scheme 26
Deceleration Control
When the vehicle goes around a corner and needs to decelerate first and then accelerate, the PCM sets the data for deceleration control to reduce the number of times the transmission shifts. When the vehicle is decelerating from speeds above 27 mph (43 km/h), the PCM shifts the transmission from 5th or 4th to 2nd earlier than normal to cope with upcoming acceleration.
Clutch Pressure Control
The PCM actuates the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C to control the clutch pressure. When shifting between lower and higher gears, the clutch pressure regulated by the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C engages and disengages the clutch smoothly.
The PCM receives input signals from the various sensors and switches, performs processing data, and outputs a current to the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C.
Scheme 27
Lock up Control
The torque converter clutch solenoid valve controls the hydraulic pressure to switch the lock up shift valve and lock up ON and OFF. The PCM actuates the torque converter clutch solenoid valve and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve ON, the condition of the lock up starts. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C regulates and apply the hydraulic pressure to the lock up control valve to control the volume of the lock up.
The lock up mechanism operates in the D5 position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), in the D4 position (2nd, 3rd, and 4th), and in the D3 position (2nd and 3rd).
Scheme 28
Scheme 29
Scheme 30
Scheme 31
PCM CONNECTOR B (56P)
| Terminal Number | Wire color | Signal | Description | Measuring Conditions/Terminal Voltage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| B1 | WHT/GRN | SLS | Shift lock solenoid control | With ignition switch ON (II), in the P position, brake pedal pressed, and accelerator released: 0 V |
| B3 | BLK/RED | D5 IND | D5 indicator control | 2003-2004 models When ignition switch ON (II): About 5 V for 2 seconds In the D5 position: About 5 V 2005-2006 models When ignition switch ON (II): Battery voltage for 2 seconds In the D5 position: Battery voltage |
| B4 | RED/GRN | ATF IND | ATF indicator control | When ignition switch is first turned ON (II): 0 V for 2 seconds ATF in torque converter temperature is under normal operating condition (A/T TEMP indicator OFF): Battery voltage |
| B17 | GRY | K-LINE | Communication line PCM-to-DLC | With ignition switch ON (II): Battery voltage |
| B18 | PNK | ATP D3 | Transmission range switch D3 position signal input | In the D3 position: 0 V In other than the D3 position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B19 | YEL | ATP D4 | Transmission range switch D4 position signal input | In the D4 position: 0 V In other than the D4 position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B20 | GRN | ATP D5 | Transmission range switch D5 position signal input | In the D5 position: 0 V In other than the D5 position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B21 | RED/BLK | ATP N | Transmission range switch N position signal input | In the N position: 0 V In other than the N position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B22 | BLK/BLU | ATP P | Transmission range switch P position signal input | In the P position: 0 V In other than the P position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B23 | WHT | ATP R | Transmission range switch R position signal input | In the R position: 0 V In other than the R position: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
| B24 | LT BLU | ATP FWD | Transmission range switch D5, D4, and D3 position signal input | In the D5, D4, and D3 position: 0 V In other than the D5, D4, and D3 positions: 2003-2004 models: Battery voltage 2005-2006 models: About 5 V |
PCM CONNECTOR B DESCRIPTION (56P)
Scheme 32
Hydraulic Controls
The valve body includes the main valve body, the regulator valve body, the secondary valve body, and the accumulator body. The ATF pump is driven by splines on the end of the torque converter which is attached to the engine. Fluid flows through the regulator valve to maintain specified pressure through the main valve body to the manual valve, directing pressure to each of the clutches. The shift solenoid valves A, B, and C, and the torque converter clutch solenoid valve are mounted on the accumulator body. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C are mounted on the transmission housing.
Scheme 33
Main Valve Body
The main valve body contains the manual valve, the modulator valve, the torque converter check valve, the shift valves A, B, D, E, the CPC valve C, the cooler check valve, the relief valve, the lock up shift valve, the lock up timing valve, the lubrication control valve, the lubrication check valve, and the ATF pump gears. The primary function of the main valve body is to switch fluid pressure on and off and to control hydraulic pressure going to the hydraulic control system.
Scheme 34
Regulator Valve Body
The regulator valve body is located on the main valve body. The regulator valve body contains the regulator valve, the lock up control valve, the servo valve, and the 3rd accumulator.
Scheme 35
Regulator Valve
The regulator valve maintains constant hydraulic pressure from the ATF pump to the hydraulic control system, while also furnishing fluid to the lubricating system and torque converter. Fluid from the ATF pump flows through B and B'. Fluid entering from B flows through the valve orifice to the A cavity. This pressure of the A cavity pushes the regulator valve to the spring side, and this movement of the regulator valve uncovers the fluid port to the torque converter and the relief valve. The fluid flows out to the torque converter and the relief valve, and the regulator valve returns under spring force. According to the level of the hydraulic pressure through B, the position of the regulator valve changes, and the amount of fluid from B' through the torque converter changes. This operation is continued, maintaining the line pressure.
Scheme 36
Increases in hydraulic pressure according to torque are performed by the regulator valve using stator torque reaction. The stator shaft is splined to the stator in the torque converter, and its arm end contacts the regulator spring cap. When the vehicle is accelerating or climbing (torque converter range), stator torque reaction acts on the stator shaft, and the stator arm pushes the regulator spring cap in the direction of the arrow in proportion to the reaction. The stator reaction spring compresses, and the regulator valve moves to increase the line pressure which is regulated by the regulator valve. The line pressure reaches its maximum when the stator torque reaction reaches its maximum.
Scheme 37
Secondary Valve Body
The secondary valve body is on the main valve body. The secondary valve body contains the shift valve C, the CPC valves A, B, the reverse CPC valve, the servo control valve, the kick down valve, and the kick down short valve.
Scheme 38
Accumulator Body
The accumulator body is on the secondary valve body, and contains the 1st, 1st-hold, 2nd, 4th, and 5th accumulators. The 3rd accumulator is in the regulator valve body.
Scheme 39
Distribution of Hydraulic Pressure
As the engine turns, the ATF pump starts to operate. Automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is drawn through the ATF strainer (filter) and discharged into the hydraulic circuit. Then, ATF flowing from the ATF pump becomes line pressure that is regulated by the regulator valve. Torque converter pressure from the regulator valve enters the torque converter through the lock up shift valve and it is discharged from the torque converter. The torque converter check valve prevents torque converter pressure from rising.
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves ON and OFF, and the shift solenoid valves control shift solenoid pressure to the shift valves. Applying shift solenoid pressure to the shift valves moves the position of the shift valve, and switches the port of hydraulic pressure. The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B regulate the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid pressure and apply the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid pressure to CPC valves A and B.
When shifting between upper gear and lower gear, the clutch is engaged by pressure from the CPC pressure mode. The PCM controls one of the shift solenoid valves to move the position of the shift valve. This movement switches the port of the CPC and line pressure. Line pressure is then applied to the clutch, and the CPC pressure is intercepted. Engaging the clutch with line pressure happens when shifting is completed.
Hydraulic pressure at the ports
| PORT No. | DESCRIPTION OF PRESSURE | PORT No. | DESCRIPTION OF PRESSURE | PORT No. | DESCRIPTION OF PRESSURE |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | LINE | 5N | (1) A or LINE | 56 | (3) |
| 2 | LINE | 5D | (1) B or LINE | 57 | (4) |
| 3 | LINE | 5G | (1) B or LINE | 58 | (5) |
| 3' | REVERSE (1) or LINE | 5K | (1) B or LINE | 90 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 3' | REVERSE (1) or LINE | 6 | MODULATE | 90' | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 4 | LINE | SA | (2) A | 91 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 4' | LINE | SB | (2) B | 91' | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 4" | LINE | SC | (2) C | 92 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 4A | (1) A | LA | (6) A | 93 | ATF COOLER |
| 4B | (1) B | 9 | LINE | 94 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 4C | (1) C | 10 | 1ST CLUTCH | 95 | LUBRICATION |
| 5B | (1) A | 15 | 1ST-HOLD CLUTCH | 95' | LUBRICATION |
| 5C | (1) B | 20 | 2ND CLUTCH | 96 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 5H | (1) B | 25 | LINE | 97 | TORQUE CONVERTER |
| 5J | (1) B | 30 | 3RD CLUTCH | 99 | SUCTION |
| 5A | (1) A or LINE | 40 | 4TH CLUTCH | X | DRAIN |
| 5E | (1) A or LINE | 50 | 5TH CLUTCH | HX | HIGH POSITION DRAIN |
| 5F | (1) A or LINE | 51 | 5TH CLUTCH | HX | HIGH POSITION DRAIN |
| 5M | (1) A or LINE | 55 | (1) C or LINE | AX | AIR DRAIN |
| NOTE: (1) Clutch Pressure Control pressure (2) Shift Solenoid pressure (3) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A pressure (4) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B pressure (5) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid C pressure (6) Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid pressure | |||||
| NOTE |
|---|
| (1) Clutch Pressure Control pressure (2) Shift Solenoid pressure (3) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A pressure (4) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B pressure (5) A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid C pressure (6) Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid pressure |
| (1) | Clutch Pressure Control pressure |
| (2) | Shift Solenoid pressure |
| (3) | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid A pressure |
| (4) | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid B pressure |
| (5) | A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid C pressure |
| (6) | Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid pressure |
HYDRAULIC PRESSURE PORTS
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and positions of the shift valve are as follows
- The shift solenoid valve A is turned OFF, and the shift valve A moves to the left side.
- The shift solenoid valve B is turned ON, and the shift valve B stays on the right side.
- The shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and the shift valve C stays on the left side.
Line pressure (1) passes through the manual valve and becomes line pressure (25). Line pressure (25) stops at shift valve D. Line pressure (1) also flows to the modulator valve and becomes modulator pressure (6). Modulator pressure (6) flows to the shift solenoid valves, the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B, and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C. Under this condition, hydraulic pressure is not applied to the clutches.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 40
D5 Position: 1st gear shifting from the N position
Shift solenoid valves remain the same as in the N position when shifting to the D5 position from the N position. The manual valve moves to D5 position and switches the port of line pressure (4) leading to shift valve C and CPC valve B. Line pressure (4) flows to the 1st clutch via the orifice. Line pressure (1) becomes CPC C pressure (4C) at CPC valve C, then goes to the 1st accumulator back side. Line pressure (4) also becomes CPC B pressure (4B) at the CPC B valve. CPC B pressure goes to the 3rd clutch, via the shift valves C, B, and A, and the 3rd clutch is engaged. The 1st clutch is engaged gently when shifting to the D5 position from the N position.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 41
D5 Position: Driving in 1st gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valves A and C ON, and shift solenoid valve B stays ON. SH A pressure (SA) in the right side of shift valves A and E is released, and shift valves A and E are moved to the right side. SH C pressure (SC) in the right side of shift valve C is released, and modulator pressure (6) is applied to the left side of shift valve C. Shift valve C is moved to the right side. These valve movements release CPC C pressure (4C) from the back of the 1st accumulator and the 3rd clutch, and the 1st clutch is engaged securely.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 42
D5 Position: Shifting between 1st gear and 2nd gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM controls the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. LS B pressure (57) in the right side of CPC valve B is released, and LS A pressure (56) is applied to the right side of CPC valve A. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and CPC A pressure passes through shift valves C, A, and B, to become 2nd clutch pressure. The 2nd clutch is engaged with CPC pressure, and the 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 43
D5 Position: Driving in 2nd gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF, and shift solenoid valves A and B stays ON. Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the right side of shift valve C. Then shift valve C is moved to the left side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. The 2nd clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode, and the 2nd clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 44
D5 Position: Shifting between 2nd gear and 3rd gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM turns shift solenoid valve A OFF. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B to apply LS B pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Shift solenoid valve B stays ON, and C stays OFF. Shift solenoid valve A is turned OFF, and SH A pressure (SA) is applied to the right side of shift valves A and E. Then shift valves A and E are moved to the left side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes CPC B pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 3rd clutch pressure (30) at shift valve A via shift valves C and B, and flows to the 3rd clutch. The 2nd clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by switching the position of shift valve A. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 45
D5 Position: Driving in 3rd gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C ON, and controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to release LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A. Shift solenoid valve A stays OFF, and B stays ON. Releasing LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A releases CPC A pressure in the 2nd clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is turned ON, and SH C pressure (SC) in the right side of shift valve C is released. Then shift valve C is moved to the right side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. The 3rd clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode, and the 3rd clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 46
D5 Position: Shifting between 3rd gear and 4th gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM turns shift solenoid valve B OFF. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to apply LS A pressure (56) to CPC valve A. Shift solenoid valve A stays OFF, and C stays ON. Shift solenoid valve B is turned OFF, and SH B pressure (SB) is applied to the right side of shift valve B. Then shift valve B is moved to the left side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes CPC B pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC A pressure (4A) becomes 4th clutch pressure (40) at shift valve D via shift valves C, A, and B, and flows to the 4th clutch. The 3rd clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by switching the position of shift valve B. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 47
D5 Position: Driving in 4th gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF, and controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B to release LS B pressure (57) in CPC valve B. Shift solenoid valves A and B stay OFF. Releasing LS B pressure (57) in CPC valve B releases CPC B pressure in the 3rd clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the right side of shift valve C. Then shift valve C is moved to the left side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 4th clutch pressure (40) at shift valve D via shift valves C, A, and B, and flows to the 4th clutch. The 4th clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode by switching the position of shift valve C, and the 4th clutch is engaged securely. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 48
D5 Position: Shifting between 4th gear and 5th gear
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the PCM turns shift solenoid valve A ON. The PCM also controls the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B to apply LS B pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Shift solenoid valves B and C stay OFF. Shift solenoid valve A is turn ON, and SH A pressure (SA) in the right side of shift valves A and E is released. Then shift valves A and E are moved to the left side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. Line pressure (4) becomes CPC A pressure (4A) at CPC valve A, and becomes CPC B pressure (4B) at CPC valve B. CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 5th clutch pressure (50) at shift valve C, and flows to the 5th clutch via shift valves B and A and the manual valve. The 4th clutch pressure is changed to CPC pressure mode by switching the position of shift valve A. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 49
D5 Position: Driving in 5th gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C ON, and controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to release LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A. Shift solenoid valve A stays ON, and B stays OFF. Releasing LS A pressure (56) in CPC valve A releases CPC A pressure in the 4th clutch pressure circuit. Shift solenoid valve C is turned ON, and SH C pressure (SC) in the right side of shift valve C is released. Then shift valve C is moved to the right side to switch the port of line pressure and CPC pressure. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 5th clutch pressure (50) at the manual valve, via shift valves C, B, and A, and flows to the 5th clutch. The 5th clutch pressure is changed to line pressure mode by switching the position of shift valve C. The 5th clutch is engaged securely, and the 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 50
2 Position
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the position of the shift valves are as follows
- Shift solenoid valve A is turned ON, and shift valve A is in the right side.
- Shift solenoid valve B is turned ON, and shift valve B is in the right side.
- Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and shift valve C is in the left side.
The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A to apply LS A pressure (56) to CPC valve A. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 2nd clutch pressure (20) at shift valve B, via shift valves C and A. 2nd clutch pressure (20) is applied to the 2nd clutch, and the 2nd clutch is engaged. The 1st clutch is also engaged. No power is transmitted because of the one-way clutch.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 51
The PCM controls the shift solenoid valves and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B. The conditions of the shift solenoid valves and the position of the shift valves are as follows
- Shift solenoid valve A is turned ON, and shift valve A is in the right side.
- Shift solenoid valve B is turned ON, and shift valve B is in the right side.
- Shift solenoid valve C is turned ON, and shift valve C moves to the right side by modulator pressure (6).
The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B to apply LS B pressure (57) to CPC valve B. Line pressure (4) from the manual valve becomes 1st clutch pressure (10) at shift valve C. 1st clutch pressure (10) is applied to the 1st clutch, and the 1st clutch is engaged. Line pressure (4) also flows to CPC valve B, and becomes CPC B pressure (4B). CPC B pressure (4B) becomes 1st-hold clutch pressure (15) at shift valve D, via shift valves C, B, and A. 1st-hold clutch pressure (15) is applied to the 1st-hold clutch, and the 1st-hold clutch is engaged.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 52
R Position: Shifting to the R position from the P or N position
Line pressure (1) becomes line pressure (3) at the manual valve, and flows to the reverse CPC valve. Line pressure (3) is regulated by the reverse CPC valve and becomes reverse CPC pressure (3'). Reverse CPC pressure (3') pushes the servo valve to the reverse position, passes through the servo valve, and flows to the manual valve. Reverse CPC pressure (3") becomes 5th clutch pressure (50) at the manual valve. The 5th clutch pressure (50) is applied to the 5th clutch, and 5th clutch is engaged with reverse CPC pressure.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 53
R Position: Driving in reverse gear
The PCM turns shift solenoid valve C OFF. Shift solenoid valve A stays OFF and B stays ON. Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the right side of the reverse CPC valve. Then the reverse CPC valve moves to the left side, creating full line pressure. Line pressure to the 5th clutch is the same as when shifting to the R position, and 5th clutch pressure increases. The 5th clutch is engaged with line pressure.
Reverse Inhibitor Control
When the R position is selected while the vehicle is moving forward at speed over 6 mph (10 km/h), the PCM outputs to turn the shift solenoid valves A and C ON, and shift solenoid valve B stays ON. The reverse CPC valve is moved to right side and covers the port to stop the line pressure (3') to the servo valve. The line pressure (3') is not applied to the servo valve, and the 5th clutch pressure (50) is not applied to the 5th clutch, as a result, power is not transmitted to the reverse direction.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 54
Shift solenoid valve C is turned OFF by the PCM, and SH C pressure (SC) is applied to the right side of the reverse CPC valve. Then the reverse CPC valve is moved to the left side to uncover the port leading line pressure (3) to the servo valve. Line pressure (3') passes through the servo valve and flows to the manual valve. Line pressure (3") is intercepted at the manual valve, and is not applied to the clutches.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 55
Lock up System
The lock up mechanism of the torque converter clutch operates in the D5 position (2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th), in the D4 position (2nd, 3rd, and 4th), and in the D3 position (2nd and 3rd). The pressurized fluid is drained from the back of the torque converter through a fluid passage, causing the torque converter clutch piston to be held against the torque converter cover. As this takes place, the mainshaft rotates at the same speed as the engine crankshaft. Together with the hydraulic control, the PCM optimizes the timing and amount of the lock up mechanism. When torque converter clutch solenoid valve is turned on by the PCM, the torque converter clutch solenoid valve pressure switches the lock up shift valve lock up on and off. The A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, the lock up control valve, and lock up timing valve control the amount of lock up.
Scheme 56
Torque Converter Clutch Lock up ON (Engaging Torque Converter Clutch)
Fluid in the chamber between the torque converter cover and the torque converter clutch piston is drained off, and fluid entering from the chamber between the pump and stator exerts pressure through the torque converter clutch piston against the torque converter cover. The torque converter clutch piston engages with the torque converter cover; torque converter clutch lock up ON, and the mainshaft rotates at the same as the engine.
Scheme 57
Torque Converter Clutch Lock up OFF (Disengaging Torque Converter Clutch)
Fluid entered from the chamber between the torque converter cover and the torque converter clutch piston passes through the torque converter and goes out from the chambers between the turbine and the stator, and between the pump and the stator. As a result, the torque converter clutch piston moves away from the torque converter cover, and the torque converter clutch lock up is released; torque converter clutch lock up OFF.
Scheme 58
No Lock up
The torque converter clutch solenoid valve is turned OFF by the PCM. The lock up shift valve receives LC pressure (LA) on the left side, and modulator pressure (6) on the right side. The lock up shift valve is in the right side to uncover the port leading torque converter pressure (92) to the left side of the torque converter. Torque converter pressure (92) becomes torque converter pressure (94), and enters into the left side of the torque converter to disengage the torque converter clutch. The torque converter clutch is OFF.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 59
Partial Lock up
As the speed of the vehicle reaches the programmed value, the torque converter clutch solenoid valve is turned ON by the PCM to release LC pressure (LA) in the left cavity of the lock up shift valve. Modulator pressure (6) is applied to the right side of the lock up shift valve, then the lock up shift valve is moved in the left side to switch the port leading torque converter pressure to the right side of the torque converter. Torque converter pressure (91) is applied to the right side of the torque converter to engage the lock up clutch. The PCM also controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, and LS C pressure (58) is applied to the lock up control valve and the lock up timing valve. When LS C pressure (58) is lower, torque converter pressure (91) from the lock up timing valve is lower. The torque converter clutch is engaged partially. LS C pressure (58) increases, and the lock up timing valve is moved to the left side to uncover the port leading torque converter pressure to high. The torque converter clutch is then engaged securely. Under this condition, the torque converter clutch is engaged by pressure from the right side of the torque converter; this condition is partial lock up.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 60
Full Lock up
When the vehicle speed increases, the PCM controls A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C to increase LS C pressure (58). The LS C pressure (58) is applied to the lock up control valve and the lock up timing valve, and moves them to the left side. Under this condition, torque converter back pressure is released fully, causing the torque converter clutch to be fully engaged.
Note. When used, "left" or "right" indicates direction on the hydraulic circuit.
Scheme 61
Shift Lever
The shift lever has eight positions: P, R, N, D5, D4, D3, 2, 1 positions. The shift lever shifts between positions along the gate in the A/T gear position indicator panel. The shift lever can shift out of the P position and into the R position without pressing the shift lever. The shift lock/reverse lock mechanism is an additional shift lever lockout mechanism.
Scheme 62
Shift Lock/Reverse Lock Mechanism
The shift lock system reduces the risk of unintentional engine starting. Starting the engine is possible only in the P and N positions. The shift lock system and the key interlock system make up the interlock control system. The key interlock mechanism is located in the steering lock assembly.
The shift lock mechanism consists of the shift lock solenoid, shift lock stop, shift lock release, and related parts. The reverse lock mechanism shares the shift lock solenoid with the shift lock mechanism. The reverse lock stop and the shift lock stop are interlocked with the shift lock solenoid operation. The shift lock solenoid is electronically controlled by these shift lock control system signals: brake pedal position switch signal, interlock control signal, and transmission range switch P position signal. If the shift lock solenoid does not operate, the shift lock/reverse lock mechanism can be released by pressing the shift lock release.
In the P position while pressing the brake pedal, the shift lock solenoid is turned ON, and the shift lock solenoid plunger is retracted to release the shift lock stop. This allows the shift lever to be moved.
Scheme 63
When the brake pedal is released, the shift lock solenoid remains OFF, and the shift lock stop locks to block the shift lever in the P position.
Scheme 64
When the shift lever is shifted to the R position from the D5 position and N position (under certain conditions), the shift lock solenoid is turned ON, and the shift lock solenoid plunger is retracted to release the reverse lock stop. This allows the shift lever to be moved to the R position.
Scheme 65
If the conditions of turning ON the solenoid are not met, the shift lock solenoid remains OFF, and the reverse lock stop locks to block the shift lever in the N position.
Scheme 66
Scheme 67
Scheme 68
Scheme 69
Scheme 70
DTC P0705: Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 71
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Scheme 77
Scheme 78
Scheme 79
Scheme 80
Scheme 81
Scheme 82
Scheme 83
Scheme 84
Scheme 85
Scheme 86
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine.
- Move the shift lever through all positions, stopping for at least 1 second in each position. Monitor the OBD status for P0705 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for an intermittent short in the wire between the transmission range switch, PCM and gauge assembly. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 2 and recheck.
- Inspect the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is the switch OK? YES - With the switch connector disconnected, go to step 5. NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 52 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 12 . NO - Go to step 7.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B22 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B22, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 18 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B23 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B23, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 8 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 24 . NO - Go to step 19.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B21 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B21, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 2 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 29 . NO - Go to step 25.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B20 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B20, transmission range switch, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 7 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 35 . NO - Go to step 30.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B19 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B19, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 41 . NO - Go to step 36.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B18, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 6 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 47 . NO - Go to step 42.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B40 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B40, transmission range switch, and gauge assembly, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 9 and No. 5. Is there battery voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 48.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B24 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B24, transmission range switch, then go to step 52 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/ indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Move the shift lever through all positions, stopping for at least 1 second in each position. Monitor the OBD status for P0705 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0706: Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 87
Scheme 88
Scheme 89
Scheme 90
Scheme 91
Scheme 92
Scheme 93
Scheme 94
Scheme 95
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position until the vehicle speed reaches 31 mph (50 km/h), then slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0706 in the DTCs/ Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Inspect the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is the switch OK? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 31 .
- Install the transmission range switch correctly, and adjust the shift cable (see «SHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position until the vehicle speed reaches 31 mph (50 km/h), then slow down and stop wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0706 in the DTCs/ Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 11. NO - The problem has been corrected. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
- Shift the shift lever into the D5 position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP D5 inputs with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is ATP FWD and ATP D5 ON? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Go to step 19 .
- Shift to the D4 position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP D4 inputs with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is ATP FWD and ATP D4 ON? YES - Go to step 13. NO - Go to step 19 .
- Shift to the D3 position, and verify the ATP FWD and ATP D3 inputs with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is ATP FWD and ATP D3 ON? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Go to step 19 .
- Shift to the 2 position, and verify the ATP 2 input with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is ATP 2 ON? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Go to step 19 .
- Clear the DTC with the HAS, and turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position until the vehicle speed reaches 35 mph (56 km/h), then slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0706 in the DTCs/ Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 19. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the transmission range switch and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 16 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
- Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 22. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 31 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 24. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B22, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 3 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 25. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B23, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 8 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 26. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B21, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 2 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 27. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B20, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 7 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 28. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B19, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 1 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 29. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B18, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 6 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Go to step 30. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B40, then go to step 31 .
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 9 and No. 5. Is there voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between the transmission range switch and PCM connector terminal B24, then go to step 31.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position until the vehicle speed reaches 31 mph (50 km/h), then slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0706 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0711: Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
- Check the ATF temperature with the HAS in the A/T data list. Does the ATF temperature exceed an ambient-air temperature? YES - Record the ATF temperature. Leave the engine off for more than 30 minutes, and go to step 2. NO - Record the ATF temperature. Test the stall speed RPM (see «STALL SPEED TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) three times. Go to step 2 after stall speed testing.
- Check the ATF temperature with the HAS. Did the ATF temperature change? YES - Leave the engine off for more than 30 minutes, and go to step 3. NO - Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 5 .
- Check the ECT SENSOR with the HAS. Is the ECT SENSOR equal to the ambient-air temperature? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Leave the engine off until ECT SENSOR equals ambient-air temperature, then go to step 4.
- Check the ATF temperature with the HAS. Is the ATF temperature almost equal to ECT SENSOR? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the ATF temperature sensor and PCM. NO - Replace ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 5.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0711 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0712: Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 96
- Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is ATF temperature sensor voltage 0.07 V or less? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for an intermittent short in the wire between the ATF temperature sensor and PCM.
- Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector at the transmission end cover.
- Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HAS. Is ATF temperature sensor voltage 0.07 V or less? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Replace ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 8 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A3 and the ATF temperature sensor connector No. 2 terminal, then go to step 8. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0712 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0713: Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 97
Scheme 98
Scheme 99
- Check ATF temperature sensor voltage with the HAS in the A/T data list. Does ATF temperature sensor voltage exceed 4.93 V? YES - Go to step 2. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the ATF temperature sensor and PCM.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector at the transmission end cover.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Go to step 7 .
- Measure the voltage between ATF temperature sensor connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the ATF temperature sensor (see «ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 11 . NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A28 and the ATF temperature sensor connector, then go to step 11 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A3 and ATF temperature sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A3. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A3 and the ATF temperature sensor connector, then go to step 11.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0713 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0716: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 100
Scheme 101
Scheme 102
Scheme 103
Scheme 104
Scheme 105
Scheme 106
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check for proper input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor installation (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0716 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P) and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A27 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A27. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A27 and the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 30 . NO - Go to step 19.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A28 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Repair open in the wire between the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal A28, then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 26 . NO - Go to step 23.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A48 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and the input shaft (mainshaft), then go to step 30 .
- Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0716 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 30. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0716 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0717: Problem in Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 107
Scheme 108
Scheme 109
Scheme 110
Scheme 111
Scheme 112
Scheme 113
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check for proper input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor installation (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0717 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P) and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A27 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A27. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A27 and the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 30 . NO - Go to step 19
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A28 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Repair open in the wire between the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal A28, then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 26 . NO - Go to step 23.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A48 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and the input shaft (mainshaft), then go to step 30 .
- Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0717 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 30. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position, and hold the vehicle at speeds over 30 mph (48 km/h) for more than 10 seconds.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0717 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0718: Input Shaft (Mainshaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 114
Scheme 115
Scheme 116
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0718 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor and PCM. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 2 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and inspect the connector and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact. Are the connector terminals OK? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Repair the connector terminals, then go to step 6.
- Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and monitor the OBD status for P0718 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - The problem has been corrected. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 19 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (3P) connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 19 . NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A48 and input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A48 and the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor, then go to step 19.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0718 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0721: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 117
Scheme 118
Scheme 119
Scheme 120
Scheme 121
Scheme 122
Scheme 123
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check for proper output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0721 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P), and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A7 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A7. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A7 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 30 . NO - Go to step 19.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A8 and the No. 3 terminal of the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Repair open in the wire between the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal A8, then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 26 . NO - Go to step 23.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A47 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0721 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 30 . NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0721 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0722: Problem in Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 124
Scheme 125
Scheme 126
Scheme 127
Scheme 128
Scheme 129
Scheme 130
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check for proper output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor installation (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Raise the vehicle, make sure it is securely supported, and allow the all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0722 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P), and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A7 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 1. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A7. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A7 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 30 . NO - Go to step 19.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A8 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 3. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Repair open in the wire between the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector and PCM connector terminal A8, then go to step 30 .
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3. Is there about 5 V? YES - Go to step 26 . NO - Go to step 23.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A47 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 30 .
- Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0722 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 30. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine and turn the VSA off (the light on the VSA OFF switch comes on). Run the engine in the D5 position with engine speed 2,000 RPM or higher for more than 10 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0722 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0723: Output Shaft (Countershaft) Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 131
Scheme 132
Scheme 133
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for more than 10 minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0723 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 4. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 2 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, and inspect the connector and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact. Are the connector terminals OK? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Repair the connector terminals, then go to step 6.
- Connect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and monitor the OBD status for P0723 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - The problem has been corrected. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Disconnect the countershaft speed sensor connector.
- Check for continuity between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, then go to step 19 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there about 5 V? YES - Replace the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (see «INPUT SHAFT (MAINSHAFT) SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 19 . NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A47 and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A47 and the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor, then go to step 19.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0723 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0731: Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the transmission.
- Measure the 1st clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 1st clutch pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Shift valves B and C are stuck. Repair the shift valves and hydraulic circuit, or replace the transmission.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 1st gear in the D5 position at speeds over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0731 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the 1st clutch, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
DTC P0732: Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the transmission.
- Measure the 2nd clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 2nd clutch pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Shift valves A, B, and C are stuck. Repair the shift valves and hydraulic circuit, or replace the transmission.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 2nd gear in the D5 position at speeds over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0732 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the 2nd clutch, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
DTC P0733: Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within service limit? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the transmission.
- Measure the 3rd clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 3rd clutch pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Shift valves A, B, and C are stuck. Repair the shift valves and hydraulic circuit, or replace the transmission.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 3rd gear in the D5 position at speeds over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0733 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the 3rd clutch, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
DTC P0734: Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the transmission.
- Measure the 4th clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 4th clutch pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Shift valves A, B, C, and D are stuck. Repair the shift valves and hydraulic circuit, or replace the transmission.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 4th gear in the D5 position at speeds over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0734 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the 4th clutch, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
DTC P0735: Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Measure the line pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the line pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Repair the ATF pump and regulator valve, or replace the transmission.
- Measure the 5th clutch pressure (see «PRESSURE TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pressure-test) ). Is the 5th clutch pressure within service limits? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Shift valves A, B, C, and D are stuck. Repair the shift valves and hydraulic circuit, replace the transmission.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data, or drive in the 5th gear in the D5 position at speeds over 10 mph (16 km/h) for 20 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, then turn it ON (II) again.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0735 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the 5th clutch, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 7 and recheck.
DTC P0741: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Replace torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 10 .
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HAS. Is the system OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HAS by test result, then go to step 10 .
- Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °C).
- Test-drive the vehicle at 55 mph (88 km/h) for 2 minutes while monitoring the vehicle speed with the HAS.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair the torque converter clutch hydraulic circuit, lock up shift valve, or lock up control valve, or replace the transmission. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0741 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0746: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0746 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HAS. Is the system OK? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and recheck. NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HAS by test result, if the tester has not determined the cause of the failure, go to step 9. If any part was replaced, go to step 10 .
- Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A work properly? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve A, or replace the transmission, then go to step 10. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A see ( «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 10.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0746 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0747: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0747 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HAS. Is the system OK? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and recheck. NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HAS by the test result, if the tester has not determined the cause of the failure, go to step 10. If any part was replaced, go to step 11 .
- Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A work properly? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve A, or replace the transmission, then go to step 11. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 11.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0747 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0751: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0751 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve A operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0751 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves A and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0751 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0752: Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0752 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve A operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0752 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result Indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves A and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0752 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0756: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0756 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve B operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve B (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0756 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves B and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0756 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0757: Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0757 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve B operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve B (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0757 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves B and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0757 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0761: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0761 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve C operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0761 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves C and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0761 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0762: Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0762 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift solenoid valve C operates with the HAS. Is a clicking sound heard? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0762 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valves C and E, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0762 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0776: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0776 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HAS. Is the system OK? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and recheck. NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HAS by the test result, if the tester has not determined the cause of the failure, go to step 10. If any part was replaced, go to step 11 .
- Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B work properly? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve B, or replace the transmission, then go to step 11. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 11.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0776 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0777: A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0777 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HAS. Is the system OK? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 8 and recheck. NO - Follow instructions indicated on the HAS by the test result, if the tester has not determined the cause of the failure, go to step 10. If any part was replaced, go to step 11 .
- Inspect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Does the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B work properly? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with CPC valve B, or replace the transmission, then go to step 11. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 11.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0777 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0780: Problem in Shift Control System
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot.
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Make sure the transmission is filled to the proper level, and check for fluid leaks.
- Drain the ATF (see step 3 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ) through a strainer. Inspect the strainer for metal debris or excessive clutch material. Does the strainer contain metal debris or excessive clutch material? YES - Replace the transmission. NO - Replace the ATF (see step 5 on «ATF Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-replacement) ), then go to step 4.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0780 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Run the engine until the engine coolant temperature reaches 176 °F (80 °C).
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0780 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Repair hydraulic system related with shift valve D, then go to step 13. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 10 and recheck.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Retest-drive the vehicle in the D5 position through all five gears at speeds over 12 mph (20 km/h) for more than 20 seconds, then slow down to a stop.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0780 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 5 and recheck.
DTC P0847: Short in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 134
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list when not in 3rd gear. Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH OFF? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 6 .
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position for more than 5 seconds, then shift to the D4 position, and drive in 4th gear for about 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0847 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH OFF? YES - Replace the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see «3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 . NO - Go to step 10.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A31 and the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 14. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position for more than 5 seconds, then shift to the D4 position, and drive in 4th gear for more than 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0847 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0848: Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 135
Scheme 136
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position, and verify that the SHIFT COMMAND indicates 3rd with the HAS in the A/T data list.
- Check the 3rd PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is the 3rd PRES SWITCH ON? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7 .
- Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position for more than 5 seconds, then shift to D4 position, and drive in 4th gear for more than 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0848 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result Indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector terminal and body ground. Is there about 8 V? YES - Replace the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see «3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 15 . NO - Go to step 11.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A31 and 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector A31. If the connection is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A31 and the 3rd clutch transmission pressure switch, then go to step 15.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 3rd gear in the D3 position for more than 5 seconds, then shift to the D4 position, and drive in 4th gear for more than 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0848 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0872: Short in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 137
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list when not in 4th gear. Is the 4th PRES SWITCH OFF? YES - Go to step 3. NO - Go to step 6 .
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D4 position for more than 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0872 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is the 4th PRES SWITCH OFF? YES - Replace the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see «4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 . NO - Go to step 10.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A32 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A32 and the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 14. NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D4 position for more than 5 seconds. Slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0872 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0873: Open in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 138
Scheme 139
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D4 position, and verify that the SHIFT COMMAND indicates 4th with the HAS in the A/T data list.
- Check the 4th PRES SWITCH signal with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is the 4th PRES SWITCH ON? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Go to step 7 .
- Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D4 position for more than 5 seconds, then slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0873 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 5 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector terminal and body ground. Is there about 8 V? YES - Replace the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (see «4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 15 . NO - Go to step 11.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A32 and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A32 and the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch, then go to step 15.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Drive the vehicle in 4th gear in the D4 position for more than 5 seconds, then slow down and stop the wheels.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0873 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0962: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 140
Scheme 141
Scheme 142
Scheme 143
Scheme 144
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0962 recurs. Is DTC P0962 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A at 1.0 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0962 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there 3 - 10 ohms? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 20 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A67 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 12.
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A68 the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between terminals of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminals A67 and A68. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminal A67 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A, or between terminal A68 and the solenoid valve A, then go to step 20. NO - Check for an open or a short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, and check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the wire or fuse was replaced, go to step 20. If the wire and the fuse are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0962 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0963: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 145
Scheme 146
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0963 recurs. Is DTC P0963 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A at 0.2 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0963 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there less than 3 ohms ? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 12.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0963 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0966: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 147
Scheme 148
Scheme 149
Scheme 150
Scheme 151
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0966 recurs. Is DTC P0966 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B at 1.0 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0966 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there 3 - 10 ohms ? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 20 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A69 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 12.
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A70 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between terminals of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminals A69 and A70. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminal A69 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B, or between terminal A70 and the solenoid valve B, then go to step 20. NO - Check for an open or a short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, and check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the wire or fuse was replaced, go to step 20. If the wire and the fuse are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0966 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0967: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 152
Scheme 153
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0967 recurs. Is DTC P0967 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B at 0.2 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0967 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there less than 3 ohms? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 12.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0967 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0970: Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 154
Scheme 155
Scheme 156
Scheme 157
Scheme 158
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0970 recurs. Is DTC P0970 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C at 1.0 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0970 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there 3 - 10 ohms ? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see «A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 20 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A71 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 12.
- Check for continuity between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A72 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, then go to step 20 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Connect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between terminals of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector. Is there battery voltage? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminals A71 and A72. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminal A71 and the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C, or between terminal A72 and the solenoid valve C, then go to step 20. NO - Check for an open or a short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, and check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the wire or fuse was replaced, go to step 20. If the wire and the fuse are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0970 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0971: Short in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 159
Scheme 160
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0971 recurs. Is DTC P0971 indicated? YES - Go to step 6 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HAS.
- Drive with the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C at 0.2 A in Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control menu.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0971 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid connector. Is there less than 3 ohms ? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Replace A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see «A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102), then go to step 12.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0971 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0973: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 161
Scheme 162
Scheme 163
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0973 recurs. Is DTC P0973 indicated? YES - Go to step 5 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve A with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to the D5 position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0973 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A11 and A39 or A40. Is there less than 12 ohms ? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Go to step 13 .
- Disconnect the solenoid harness connector at the transmission housing.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A11 and A39 or A40. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A11 and solenoid harness connector, then go to step 15 . NO - Go to step 12.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is shift solenoid valve A OK? YES - Go to step 13. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 15 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 15.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to D5 position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0973 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0974: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 164
Scheme 165
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P0974 recurs. Is DTC P0974 indicated? YES - Go to step 5 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Shift Solenoid A in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve A with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0974 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A11 and A39 or A40. Is there 12 - 25 ohms? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A11. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 10.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is shift solenoid valve A OK? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve A (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 13 .
- Remove the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Check for continuity between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 4 and shift solenoid valve A connector terminal. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A11 and solenoid harness connector, then go to step 13. NO - Replace the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 13.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0974 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0976: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 166
Scheme 167
Scheme 168
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Check that DTC P0976 recurs. Is DTC P0976 indicated? YES - Go to step 7 . NO - Go to step 4.
- Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve B with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0976 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A12 and A39 or A40. Is there less than 12 ohms ? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 14 .
- Disconnect the solenoid harness connector at the transmission housing.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A12 and A39 or A40. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A12 and solenoid harness connector, then go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve B (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is shift solenoid valve B OK? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve B (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 16 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 16.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0976 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0977: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 169
Scheme 170
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Check that DTC P0977 recurs. Is DTC P0977 indicated? YES - Go to step 7 . NO - Go to step 4.
- Choose Shift Solenoid B in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve B with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0977 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A12 and A39 or A40. Is there 12 - 25 ohms ? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A12. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 11.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve B (see page 14-181). Is shift solenoid valve B OK? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve B (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 .
- Remove the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Check for continuity between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 1 and shift solenoid valve B connector. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A12 and shift solenoid valve B, then go to step 14. NO - Replace the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes in the D5 position through all five gears.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0977 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0979: Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 171
Scheme 172
Scheme 173
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Check that DTC P0979 recurs. Is DTC P0979 indicated? YES - Go to step 7 . NO - Go to step 4.
- Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve C with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to the D5 position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0979 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A13 and A39 or A40. Is there less than 12 ohms ? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 14 .
- Disconnect the solenoid harness connector at the transmission housing.
- Check the continuity between PCM connector terminals A13 and A39 or A40. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A13 and solenoid harness connector, then go to step 16 . NO - Go to step 13.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is shift solenoid valve C OK? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 16 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 16.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to the D5 position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0979 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P0980: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 174
Scheme 175
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to the D5 position.
- Check that DTC P0980 recurs. Is DTC P0980 indicated? YES - Go to step 7 . NO - Go to step 4.
- Choose Shift Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the shift solenoid valve C with the HAS.
- Start the engine, and shift to the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0980 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 4 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A13 and A39 or A40. Is there 12 - 25 ohms ? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A13. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 11.
- Inspect shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is shift solenoid valve C OK? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Replace shift solenoid valve C (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 .
- Remove the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Check for continuity between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 2 and shift solenoid valve C connector. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A13 and shift solenoid valve C, then go to step 14. NO - Replace the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P0980 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P1710: 1st-hold Switch Stuck ON or Short in 1st-hold Switch Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 176
Scheme 177
- Shift to the 2 position, and verify the LOW HOLD SWITCH input with the HAS in the A/T data list. Is LOW HOLD SWITCH OFF? YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 1 and recheck. NO - Go to step 2.
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Disconnect the switch assembly connector (6P).
- Check for continuity between switch assembly connector (6P) terminals No. 1 and No. 3 when the shift lever in the 1 position, and when the shift lever is out of 1. Is there continuity when the shift lever in 1 position, and no continuity when the shift lever in other than 1 position? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Replace the 1st-hold switch (see «Indicator Bulb Replacement»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 6 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the voltage between switch assembly connector (6P) terminals No. 1 and No. 3. Is there voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Repair short to ground in the wire between the 1st-hold switch and PCM connector terminal B32 or the A/T gear position indicator, then go to step 6.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Start the engine in the P position.
- Monitor the OBD status for P1710 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P2769: Short in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 178
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Scheme 180
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P2769 recurs. Is DTC P2769 indicated? YES - Go to step 5 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the torque converter clutch solenoid valve with the HAS.
- Monitor the OBD status for P2769 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A14 and A39 or A40. Is there less than 12 ohms ? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Go to step 12 .
- Disconnect the solenoid harness connector at the transmission housing.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A14 and A39 or A40. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal A14 and solenoid harness connector, then go to step 14 . NO - Go to step 11.
- Inspect torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is the torque converter clutch solenoid valve OK? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 14 .
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A19 and A39 or A40. Is there battery voltage? YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Check for blown No. 6 fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A19 and the driver's under dash fuse/relay box, then go to step 14.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
- Monitor the OBD status for P2769 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
DTC P2770: Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
Note. Record all freeze data and review General Troubleshooting Information (see GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION ) before you troubleshoot. This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission.
Scheme 181
Scheme 182
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Check that DTC P2770 recurs. Is DTC P2770 indicated? YES - Go to step 5 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Choose Lockup Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and test the torque converter clutch solenoid valve with the HAS.
- Monitor the OBD status for P2770 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate FAILED? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. If the tester indicates NOT COMPLETED, return to step 3 and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Measure the resistance between PCM connector terminals A14 and A39 or A40. Is there 12 - 25 ohms ? YES - Check for loose or poor connections at PCM connector terminal A14. If the connections are OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM (see «PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__pcm-updating-and-substitution-for-testing) ), then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 9.
- Inspect torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is the torque converter clutch solenoid valve OK? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12 .
- Remove the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Check for continuity between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 3 and torque converter clutch solenoid valve connector. Is there continuity? YES - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A14 and torque converter clutch solenoid valve, then go to step 12. NO - Replace the solenoid harness (see «SHIFT SOLENOID VALVE, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SOLENOID VALVE TEST/REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), then go to step 12.
- Clear the DTC with the HAS.
- Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes under the same conditions as those indicated by the freeze data.
- Monitor the OBD status for P2770 in the DTCs/Freeze Data in A/T Mode Menu for a pass/fail. Does the result indicate PASSED? YES - Troubleshooting is complete. NO - Return to step 1 and recheck.
Scheme 183
- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Apply the parking brake, and block both rear wheels. Start the engine, then shift to the D5 position while pressing the brake pedal. Press the accelerator pedal, and release it suddenly. The engine should not stall.
- Repeat step 2 in all shift lever positions.
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A), and go to the A/T data list.
- Test-drive the vehicle on a flat road in the D5 position. Check for abnormal noise and clutch slippage. While driving, check that the shift points occur at the proper speeds by monitoring the throttle position sensor voltage with the HAS and comparing your shift point speeds and voltage to those in the table. (The Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage represents the throttle opening.) Upshift: D5 Position UPSHIFT - D5 POSITION Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 0.8 V 1st->2nd 13-14 mph (21-23 km/h) 2nd->3rd 19-21 mph (30-34 km/h) 3rd->4th 25-29 mph (40-46 km/h) 4th->5th 45-48 mph (72-78 km/h) Lock up ON 48-51 mph (78-82 km/h) Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 2.25 V 1st->2nd 28-30 mph (45-49 km/h) 2nd->3rd 45-49 mph (73-79 km/h) 3rd->4th 67-71 mph (108-114 km/h) 4th->5th 88-92 mph (142-148 km/h) Lock up ON 89-93 mph (144-150 km/h) Fully-opened throttle Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 4.5 V 1st->2nd 38-42 mph (61-67 km/h) 2nd->3rd 68-72 mph (110-116 km/h) 3rd->4th 105-109 mph (169-175 km/h) Downshift: D5 Position DOWNSHIFT - D5 POSITION Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 0.75 V Lock up OFF 45-48 mph (73-77 km/h) 5th->4th 36-39 mph (58-62 km/h) 4th->3rd 17-19 mph (29-33 km/h) 3rd->1st 9-11 mph (12-16 km/h) Throttle position sensor voltage: 2.25 V Lock up OFF 78-82 mph (127-133 km/h) Fully-opened throttle Accelerator pedal position sensor voltage: 4.5 V 5th->4th - 4th->3rd 88-92 mph (142-148 km/h) 3rd->2nd 58-61 mph (93-99 km/h) 2nd->1st 29-33 mph (47-53 km/h)
- Accelerate to about 35 mph (57 km/h) so the transmission is in 4th or 5th, then shift from the D5 position to the 2 position. The vehicle should immediately begin to slow down from engine braking.
- Check for abnormal noise and clutch slippage in the following positions. (1st Gear) Position Accelerate from a stop at full throttle. Check that there is no abnormal noise or clutch slippage. Upshifts should not occur with the shift lever in this position. (2nd Gear) Position Accelerate from a stop at full throttle. Check that there is no abnormal noise or clutch slippage. Upshifts and downshifts should not occur with the shift lever in this position. R (Reverse) Position Accelerate from a stop at full throttle, and check for abnormal noise and clutch slippage.
- Test in P (Park) Position. Park the vehicle on a slope (about 16°), apply the brake, and shift into the P position. Release the brake; the vehicle should not move. NOTE: Always use the brake to hold the vehicle, when stopped on an incline in gear. Depending on the grade of the incline, the vehicle could roll backwards if the brake is released.
Scheme 184
- Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the upper level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
- Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels.
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A), and go to the A/T data list.
- Make sure the A/C switch is OFF.
- After the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on), shift to the 2 position.
- Fully press the brake pedal and accelerator pedal for 6 to 8 seconds, and note engine speed. Do not move the shift lever while raising engine speed.
- Allow 2 minutes for cooling, then repeat the test in the D5, 1, and R positions. NOTE: Do not test stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time. Stall speed tests should be used for diagnostic purposes only. Stall speed should be the same in D5, 2, 1, and R positions. Do not test stall speed with the A/T pressure gauges installed. Stall Speed RPM: Specification: 1,950 RPM Service Limit: 1,800-2,100 RPM
- If the measurements are out of the service limit, problems and probable causes are listed in the table. SERVICE LIMIT PROBLEMS AND PROBABLE CAUSES Problem Probable causes Stall speed RPM high in the D5, 2, 1, and R positions ATF pump output low Clogged ATF strainer Regulator valve stuck Slipping clutch Stall speed RPM high in the 1 position Slippage of 1st clutch or 1st gear one-way clutch Stall speed RPM high in the 2 position Slippage of 2nd clutch Stall speed RPM high in the R position Slippage of 5th clutch Stall speed RPM low in the D5, 2, 1, and R positions Engine output low Engine throttle valve closed Torque converter one-way clutch slipping
Pressure Test
Special Tools Required
- A/T clutch pressure gauge set 07406-0020400 or 07406-0020401
- A/T pressure hose, 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A
- A/T pressure hose adapter 07MAJ-PY40120
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Scheme 188
- Make sure the transmission fluid is filled to the proper level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
- Allow all four wheels to rotate freely.
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A).
- Remove the splash shield.
- Connect the oil pressure gauges to the line pressure inspection port (A), 5th clutch pressure inspection port (B), and 3rd clutch pressure inspection port (C) at the front lower of the transmission. Do not allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the ports while connecting the gauges.
- Warm up the engine (the radiator fan comes on), then stop it.
- Remove the intake air duct, and connect the oil pressure gauges to the 2nd clutch pressure inspection port (D) and 4th clutch pressure inspection port (E). Then temporarily install the air cleaner housing and intake air duct.
- Connect the oil pressure gauge to the 1st clutch pressure inspection port (F), and 1st-port clutch pressure inspection port (G) at the transmission end cover.
- Start the engine, and run it at 2,000 RPM in the P or N position.
- Measure the line pressure at the line pressure inspection port (A). NOTE: Higher pressure may be indicated if measurements are made in shift lever position other than N or P. FLUID PRESSURE Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit Line (A) 900-960 kPa (9.2-9.8 kgf/cm 2 , 130-140 psi) 850 kPa (8.7 kgf/cm 2 , 120 psi)
- Shift to the 1 position, and measure the 1st clutch pressure at the 1st clutch pressure inspection port (F) and 1st-hold clutch pressure at the 1st-hold clutch pressure inspection port (G).
- Shift to the 2 position, and measure the 2nd clutch pressure at the 2nd clutch pressure inspection port (D).
- Shift to the P position, then press the brake pedal and hold it.
- Shift to the D3 position, and release the brake pedal; the transmission is in 1st gear.
- Press the accelerator pedal to increase the engine speed to 2,500 RPM; the transmission shifts to 2nd gear.
- Release the accelerator pedal to close fully the throttle over 5 seconds; the engine speed decrease to 1,000 RPM with the transmission in 2nd gear.
- Press the accelerator pedal very slowly to increase the engine speed 2,000 RPM over 5 seconds, and hold the accelerator; the transmission shifts to 3rd gear. Measure the 3rd clutch pressure at the 3rd clutch pressure inspection port (C) while holding engine speed at 2,000 RPM.
- Shift to the D4 position (the transmission will shift to 4th gear at about 2,500 RPM), reduce the engine speed to 2,000 RPM, and measure the 4th clutch pressure at the 4th clutch pressure inspection port (E).
- Shift to the D5 position (the transmission will shift to 5th gear at about 2,500 RPM), reduce the engine speed to 2,000 RPM, and measure the 5th clutch pressure at the 5th clutch pressure inspection port (B).
- Bring the engine back to an idle, then apply the brake to stop the wheels from rotating.
- Shift to the R position. Raise the engine RPM to 2,000 RPM, and measure the 5th clutch pressure at the 5th clutch pressure inspection port (B). FLUID PRESSURE Pressure Fluid Pressure Standard Service Limit 1st-hold clutch (G) 760-830 kPa (7.7-8.5 kgf/cm 2 , 110-120 psi) 710 kPa (7.2 kgf/cm 2 , 100 psi) 1st clutch (F) 890-970 kPa (9.1-9.9 kgf/cm 2 , 130-140 psi) 840 kPa (8.6 kgf/cm 2 , 120 psi) 2nd clutch (D) 3rd clutch (C) 4th clutch (E) 5th clutch (B)
- If the measurements are out of the service limit, problems and probable causes are listed in the table. PROBLEMS AND PROBABLE CAUSES Problem Probable causes No or low line pressure Torque converter ATF pump Regulator valve Torque converter check valve Low fluid level Clogged ATF strainer No or low 1st clutch pressure 1st clutch O-rings No or low 2nd clutch pressure 2nd clutch O-rings No or low 3rd clutch pressure 3rd clutch O-rings No or low 4th clutch pressure 4th clutch O-rings No or low 5th clutch pressure 5th clutch O-rings No or low 5th clutch pressure in the R position Servo valve 5th clutch O-rings No or low 1st-hold clutch pressure 1st-hold clutch O-rings
- Install the sealing bolts with the new sealing washers, and tighten the bolts to 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft). Do not reuse old sealing washers. Torque: 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
- Install the air cleaner housing and intake air duct.
- Install the splash shield.
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Scheme 196
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A).
- Choose Shift Solenoid A, B, C, and Lock up Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HAS.
- Check that the shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and the torque converter clutch solenoid valve operate with the HAS. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the valves are OK. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 4.
- The solenoid test has finished if the tests are OK. If no sound is heard, remove the solenoid valve, and test the solenoid valve.
- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then remove the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Remove the bolts securing the harness cover (A).
- Disconnect the connectors from A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, and remove the solenoid valves, ATF pipes (C), and gasket (D).
- Replace the gasket and O-rings (E) with new ones when installing the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B.
- Remove the solenoid valve cover (A), dowel pins (B), and gasket (C).
- Replace the gasket with new one when installing solenoid cover.
- Disconnect each solenoid valve connector.
- Measure the resistance of shift solenoid valve A, B, C, and torque converter clutch solenoid valve (D) between each connector terminal and body ground. Standard: 12-25 ohms Replace the solenoid valve if the resistance is out of standard. If the resistance is within the standard, go to step 18.
- Connect the battery negative terminal to body ground, then connect the battery positive terminal to each solenoid terminal individually. If a clicking sound is heard, go to step 19 and replace the solenoid harness. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 20 and replace the shift solenoid valve.
- Install a new O-ring (A) on the solenoid harness connector (B), and install the connector in the transmission housing.
- Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the solenoid valves.
- Install the new O-rings (two O-rings per solenoid valve) (E) on the reused solenoid valve. NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the O-rings provided on it.
- Install shift solenoid valve B (black connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body. NOTE: Do not hold the solenoid valve connector to install the solenoid valve. Be sure to hold the solenoid valve body. Do not install the shift solenoid valve C before installing the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (D). If solenoid valve C is installed before torque converter clutch solenoid valve, it may damage to hydraulic control system.
- Install torque converter clutch solenoid valve (black connector) by holding the solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body.
- Install shift solenoid valve C (brown connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the bracket of torque converter clutch solenoid valve.
- Install shift solenoid valve A (brown connector) by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body.
- Connect RED harness to shift solenoid valve A, ORN harness to shift solenoid valve B, GRN harness to shift solenoid valve C, and YEL harness to torque converter clutch solenoid valve (D).
- Install the shift solenoid valve cover, dowel pins and a new gasket.
- Install the new solenoid valve body gasket on the solenoid valve cover, and install the ATF pipes with their filter side into the transmission housing. Install the new O-rings over the ATF pipes.
- Install A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B.
- Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
- Secure the harness cover with the bolts.
- Connect the shift cable end to the control lever, and secure the cable end with the spring clip/washer.
- Secure the shift cable bracket with the nuts.
- Install the battery base and intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation codes, anti-theft, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
Scheme 197
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Scheme 202
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A).
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid A and B in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HAS.
- Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B with the HAS. If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HAS. If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HAS. If the valve does not test OK, and the HAS does not determine the cause, go to step 4.
- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B connectors.
- Measure resistance between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A terminals No. 1 and No. 2, and measure resistance between A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve B terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Standard: 3-10 ohms If the resistance is out of standard, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE A AND B REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). If the is resistance is within the standard, go to step 10.
- Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch solenoid valve A and B connectors, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all removed parts. If no clicking sound is heard, go to step 11.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Remove the bolts securing the harness cover (A).
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, ATF pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E).
- Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valves for contamination.
- Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the A/T clutch solenoid valve A and B connectors, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. Make sure that the solenoid valve A and B move.
- Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B body.
- If either valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not work, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B.
- Clean the mounting surface and fluid passages of the solenoid valve and solenoid valve cover.
- Install the new gasket on the solenoid valve cover, and install the ATF pipes with their filter side into the transmission housing.
- Install the new O-rings over the ATF pipes.
- Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B.
- Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connectors securely.
- Secure the harness cover with the bolts.
- Connect the shift cable end to the control lever, and secure the cable end with the spring clip/washer.
- Secure the shift cable bracket with the nuts.
- Install the battery base, then install the intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
Scheme 203
Scheme 204
Scheme 205
- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then remove the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Remove the bolts securing the harness cover (A).
- Disconnect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B connectors.
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B, ATF pipes (C), O-rings (D), and gasket (E).
- Clean the mounting surface and fluid passages of the solenoid valves and solenoid valve cover.
- Install the new gasket on the solenoid valve cover, and install the ATF pipes with their filter side into the transmission housing.
- Install the new O-rings over the ATF pipes.
- Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B.
- Check the connectors for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connectors securely.
- Secure the harness cover with the bolts.
- Connect the shift cable end to the control lever, and secure the cable end with the spring clip/washer.
- Secure the shift cable bracket with the nuts.
- Install the battery base and intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
Scheme 206
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Scheme 212
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A).
- Choose Clutch Pressure Control (Linear) Solenoid C in Miscellaneous Test Menu on the HAS.
- Test the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C with the HAS. If the valve tests OK, the test is complete. Disconnect the HAS. If the valve does not test OK, follow the instructions on the HAS. If the valve does not test OK, and the HAS does not determine the cause, go to step 4.
- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets, and disconnect the battery negative terminal then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
- Measure A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C resistance at the solenoid valve connector. Standard: 3-10 ohms If the resistance is out of standard, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (see «A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transfer-mechanism) ). If the resistance is within standard, go to step 10.
- Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the solenoid valve connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. A clicking sound should be heard. If a clicking sound is heard, the valve is OK. Reconnect the connector, and install all remove parts. If no clicking sound heard, go to step 11.
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Remove the ATF joint pipes, O-rings, ATF pipe, and gasket.
- Check the fluid passage of the solenoid valve for contamination.
- Connect the battery positive terminal to the No. 1 terminal of the solenoid valve connector, and connect the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal. Make sure that the solenoid valve C moves.
- Disconnect one of the battery terminals, and check valve movement. NOTE: You can see valve movement through the fluid passage in the mounting surface of the solenoid valve body.
- If the valve binds or moves sluggishly, or if the solenoid valve does not work, replace the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Clean the mounting surface and fluid passages of the solenoid valve and transmission housing.
- Install the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (A) with the filter side into its mounting hole (B).
- Check the height (A) of the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (B) between the top (C) of the pipe and solenoid valve body mounting surface (D). The height is about 7 mm (0.3 in.) If the height is over 7 mm (0.3 in.), install the pipe securely until it stops in the accumulator body.
- Install the new gasket (A) on the transmission housing, and install the 8 x 34.5 mm ATF joint pipe (B) with the filter side into the transmission housing and 8 x 25.2 mm ATF pipe (D).
- Install the new O-rings (E) over the ATF joint pipes.
- Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or replace if necessary, then connect the connector securely.
- Install the battery base and intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
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- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolts securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Disconnect the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C connector.
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Remove the ATF joint pipes, O-rings, ATF pipe, and gasket.
- Clean the mounting surface and fluid passages of the solenoid valve and transmission housing.
- Install the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (A) with the filter side into its mounting hole (B).
- Check the height (A) of the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (B) between the top (C) of the pipe and solenoid valve body mounting surface (D). The height is about 7 mm (0.3 in.) If the height is over 7 mm (0.3 in.), install the pipe securely until it stops in the accumulator body.
- Install the new gasket (A) on the transmission housing, and install the 8 x 34.5 mm ATF joint pipe (B) with the filter side into the transmission housing and 8 x 25.2 mm ATF pipe (D).
- Install the new O-rings (E) over the ATF joint pipes.
- Install the new A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
- Install the battery base and intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
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- Remove the splash shield.
- Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor.
- Install the new O-ring (A) on the new input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (B), then install the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor in the transmission housing.
- Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
- Install the splash shield.
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- Remove the splash shield.
- Disconnect the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector, and remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor.
- Install the new O-ring (A) on the new output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (B), then install the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor in the transmission housing.
- Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely.
- Install the splash shield.
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- Remove the splash shield.
- Disconnect the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector.
- Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors.
- Install the new 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A) with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch to the specified torque.
- Connect the connector securely.
- Install the splash shield.
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- Remove the intake manifold cover.
- Disconnect the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch brown connector.
- Make sure there is no water, oil, dust, or foreign particles inside the connectors.
- Install the new 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A) with a new sealing washer (B), and tighten the switch to the specified torque.
- Connect the connector securely.
- Reinstall the intake manifold cover.
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- Remove the splash shield.
- Disconnect the ATF temperature sensor connector (A), then remove the connector from the connector bracket (B).
- Remove the harness clamp (C) from its bracket (D).
- Remove the ATF temperature sensor, and replace with new one.
- Install the new ATF temperature sensor (E) and a new O-ring (F).
- Install the ATF temperature sensor connector to the connector bracket, then connect the connector.
- Install the harness clamp on its bracket.
- Install the splash shield.
ATF Level Check
Note. Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.
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- Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning the engine off.
- Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A) from the ATF dipstick guide pipe, and wipe it with a clean cloth.
- Insert the dipstick into the dipstick guide.
- Remove the dipstick (A) and check the fluid level. It should be between upper mark (B) and lower mark (C).
- If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, hose and line joints, and cooler lines. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission. If necessary, remove the dipstick and fill the transmission through the dipstick guide pipe opening (A) to bring the fluid level up to the upper mark. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality.
- If the level is above the upper mark, drain the ATF to proper level (see step 3 ).
- Insert the dipstick back into the dipstick guide.
ATF Replacement
Note. Keep all foreign particles out of the transmission.
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- Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.
- Remove the ATF filler bolt and drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF). NOTE: If cleaning the transmission cooler is necessary, refer to ATF cooler cleaning (see «ATF COOLER CLEANING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-cooler-cleaning) ).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
- Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid into the filler hole (A) to the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use Acura ATF-Z1 automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using a non-Acura ATF can affect shift quality. Automatic Transmission Fluid Capacity: 2.7 L (2.9 US qt) at change 7.3 L (7.7 US qt) at overhaul
- Install the filler bolt (B) with a new sealing washer (C).
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- Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
- Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.
- Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
- Remove the filler plug (A) and sealing washer (B).
- Refill the transfer assembly with the recommended fluid (hypoid gear oil) into the filler hole (C) until the fluid from flowing out. Use a SAE 90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API classified GL4 or GL5 only. Viscosity SAE 90: Above 0 °F (-18 °C) SAE 80W-90: Below 0 °F (-18 °C) Transfer Fluid (Hypoid Gear Oil) Capacity: 0.43 L (0.45 US qt) at fluid change
- Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer.
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- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is supported securely.
- Shift the transmission into the N position.
- Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C).
- Separate the propeller shaft from the transfer companion flange.
- Set a dial indicator (A) on the transfer companion flange (B); position dial indicator tip (C) on the direct extension of the bolt hole center (D).
- Measure the transfer gear backlash. Standard: 0.06-0.17 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the transfer assembly, and adjust the transfer gear backlash (see «REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__reassembly) ).
- Check for fluid leaks between the mating faces of the transfer assembly and transmission.
- If there is a leak, remove the transfer assembly, remove the transfer cover, and replace the O-ring.
- Check for leaks between the transfer companion flange and transfer oil seal.
- If there is a leak, remove the transfer assembly from the transmission, and replace the transfer oil seal and O-ring on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). If oil seal and O-ring replacement is required, you will need to check and adjust the transfer gear tooth contact, transfer gear backlash, the tapered roller bearing starting torque, and the total starting torque (see «REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__reassembly) ). Do not replace the oil seal with the transfer assembly on the transmission.
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- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
- Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
- Remove the front subframe stiffener.
- Remove exhaust pipe A.
- Remove the bolt securing the transfer breather tube bracket (A), and disconnect the breather tube (B) from the breather pipe (C) on the transfer assembly.
- Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C).
- Separate the propeller shaft from the transfer assembly.
- Remove the transfer assembly from the transmission.
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- Clean the areas where the transfer assembly contact the transmission with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Then apply transmission fluid to the contact areas.
- Install the dowel pin (A) in the transmission, and install the transfer assembly (B) on the transmission.
- Install the propeller shaft (A) to the transfer companion flange (B) by aligning the reference mark (C).
- Secure the transfer breather tube bracket (A) on the transfer assembly with the bolt, and install the breather tube (B) over the breather pipe (C) with the dot (D) on the tube facing out.
- Install the exhaust pipe A and the new gaskets (B).
- Install the subframe stiffener with the new mounting bolts.
- Refill the transfer with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil), if necessary (see «TRANSFER ASSEMBLY FLUID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Refill the transmission with ATF (see step 5 ).
Transmission Removal
Special Tools Required
- Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S3VA000
- Engine hanger balance bar VSB02C00019
- Engine hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566
- Front subframe adapter EQS02BMDXSB0
These tools are available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 1-888-424-6857.
Note. Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces. Special tool Reds engine support hanger AAR-T-12566 must be used with the side engine mount installed.
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- Drain the power steering system fluid from the reservoir (see «FLUID REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__fluid-replacement) ).
- Remove the center console lower panel (driver side), and pull the carpet to expose the steering joint cover.
- Remove the steering joint cover (A).
- Make a reference mark (B) across the steering joint (C) and steering gearbox pinion shaft (D). Remove the steering joint bolt (E), and disconnect the steering joint from the steering gearbox pinion shaft.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets.
- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported. Remove the splash shield.
- Remove the support struts at the ball joints on both sides hood. Secure the hood in a vertical position with reinstalling the strut ball joint and bracket.
- Disconnect the battery negative terminal, then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the intake air duct and engine covers.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery cover, battery, and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolt securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Remove the power steering pump outlet hose (A) at the pump (B), and remove the hose clamp bolt (C).
- Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
- Reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer (B).
- Remove the transmission breather tube (A) from the breather pipe (B) at the transmission housing.
- Disconnect the solenoid harness connector (A), and remove the harness clamp (B) from the clamp bracket (C).
- Remove the starter cables (D) from the starter, and remove the harness clamps (E) from the clamp bracket.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Remove the bolts securing the harness cover (A).
- Disconnect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, B connector, C connector, and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (D).
- Remove the transmission ground cable (A).
- Disconnect the transmission range switch connector (B), and remove the harness clamp (C) from the clamp bracket (D).
- Remove the ATF cooler hoses (A) from the ATF cooler lines (B). Turn the ends of the cooler hoses up to prevent ATF from flowing out, then plug the cooler hoses and lines.
- Check for any signs of leakage at the hose joints.
- Disconnect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A), output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (C), and ATF temperature sensor connector (D).
- Remove the upper transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Remove the front mount nut.
- Remove the connector bracket from the engine front cylinder head; use the bracket bolt to attach engine balancer bar front arm.
- Remove the harness clamp bracket from the engine rear cylinder head; use the bracket bolt to attach engine balancer bar rear arm.
- Lift and support the engine with engine hanger (A) and engine balancer bar (B). Attach the front arm (C) to the front cylinder head with a spacer (D) and the connector bracket bolt (10 x 1.25 mm) (E). Attach the rear arm (F) to the rear cylinder head with the harness clamp bracket bolt (8 x 1.25 mm) (G).
- Remove the front subframe stiffener.
- Remove exhaust pipe A.
- Remove the spring clips (A) and castle nuts (B), and separate the lower arms (C) from the knuckles (D) (see step 13 ).
- Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench (E) in the top of the ball joint pin (F), and remove the nut (G), then separate the stabilizer link (H).
- Remove the cotter pins (I) and nuts (J), and separate the tie-rod end ball joints (K) from the knuckles (see step 11 ).
- Pry the left driveshaft out of the differential and the right driveshaft from the intermediate shaft (see step 10 on «LEFT DRIVESHAFT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/axle-shafts/#drivelineaxle) ).
- Remove the bolt securing the transfer breather tube bracket (A), and disconnect the breather tube (B) from the breather pipe (C) on the transfer assembly.
- Make a reference mark (A) across the propeller shaft (B) and the transfer companion flange (C).
- Separate the propeller shaft from the transfer assembly.
- Remove the transfer assembly from the transmission.
- Remove the torque converter cover (A), then remove the eight drive plate bolts (B) one at a time while rotating the crankshaft pulley.
- Disconnect the power steering pressure switch connector.
- Remove the power steering hose clamp (A), then disconnect the hose (B) from the line (C) at the right front of the subframe (D).
- Disconnect the vacuum tube (A) from the vacuum line (B) at the front mount.
- Remove the transmission lower mount nuts (four).
- Make reference marks (A) on the body across the marks (B) on the edge of the front subframe (C).
- Remove the rear mount bracket bolts (three).
- Loosen the four bolts (A) holding the adjustable arms (B) of the front subframe adapter (T/N EQS02 BMDXB0) to its center plate. NOTE: The adapter is designed to be used the Acura transmission jack (model number LSL-W 93714) or powertrain lift (model number OTC-1585), both available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program. It will also work with most commercially available transmission jack.
- Line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner of the jack base, then attach the adapter to the jack base with the bolts (A) that came with the jack. Tighten all bolts securely.
- Raise the jack to vehicle height, then attach the adapter to the front subframe using the subframe stiffener mounting bolts (B) and bolt holes.
- Remove the 12 x 1.25 mm bolts (six) (A) securing the subframe stiffeners (B), the four front subframe mounting bolts (C), and the stiffeners, then lower the front subframe (D).
- Remove the transmission lower mounts.
- Remove the driveshaft from the differential and the intermediate shaft. Coat all precision finished surfaces with clean engine oil, then tie the plastic bags over the driveshaft ends.
- Move the left driveshaft to the front side.
- Remove the heat shield (A), then remove the intermediate shaft (B).
- Coat all precision finished surfaces with clean engine oil, then tie plastic bags over both ends of the intermediate shaft.
- Remove the front mount bracket (A).
- Remove the sensor harness from the harness clamps (B).
- Remove the transmission housing mounting bolt (C) using a socket 22 mm in length.
- Remove the rear transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Remove the lower transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Lower the transmission, and tilt the engine just enough for the transmission to clear its end cover from the side frame.
- Place a jack under the transmission.
- Pull the transmission away from the engine until it clears the dowel pins, then lower it on the jack.
- Remove the starter from the transmission.
- Remove the torque converter assembly from the transmission.
- Remove the clamp bracket.
- Inspect the drive plate, and replace if it's damaged.
Scheme 285
- Remove the transmission assembly (see «TRANSMISSION REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-removal) ).
- Remove the drive plate (A) and washer (B) from the engine.
- Install the drive plate and washer on the engine crankshaft, and tighten the eight bolts in a crisscross pattern.
- Install the transmission assembly (see «TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__transmission-installation) ).
Transmission Installation
Special Tools Required
- Engine hanger support bar 07AAK-S3VA000
- Engine hanger balance bar VSB02C00019
- Engine hanger, A and Reds AAR-T-12566
- Front subframe adapter EQS02BMDXSB0
These tools are available through the Acura Tool and Equipment Program 1-888-424-6857.
Note. Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
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- Clean the ATF cooler (see «ATF COOLER CLEANING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-cooler-cleaning) ).
- Install the clamp bracket.
- Install the torque converter assembly (A) on the mainshaft (B) with a new O-ring (C).
- Install the 14 mm dowel pin (D) and 10 mm dowel pin (E) in the torque converter housing.
- Install the starter (A) and clamp bracket (B) on the transmission.
- Install the transmission lower mounts.
- Place the transmission on a jack, and raise it to engine level.
- Attach the lower transmission to the engine, then install the transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Install the rear transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Install the upper transmission housing mounting bolts.
- Install the transmission housing mounting bolt (A) using a socket 22 mm in length and a torque wrench.
- Install the sensor harness on its clamps (B).
- Install the front mount bracket (C) with the new mounting bolts.
- Install the new set ring (A) on the intermediate shaft (B), and install the intermediate shaft.
- Install the heat shield (C).
- Install the new set ring on the left driveshaft, then install the left driveshaft in the differential. While installing the driveshaft in the differential, be sure not to allow dust or other foreign particles to enter the transmission. Install the right driveshaft over the intermediate shaft. NOTE: Clean the areas where the driveshaft and intermediate shaft contact the transmission (differential) with solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Turn the right and left steering knuckle fully outward, and slide the driveshaft and intermediate shaft into the differential and intermediate shaft until you feel its set ring engages the side gear.
- Support the front subframe with the front subframe adapter (T/N EQS02BMDXB0) and a jack, and lift it up to the body.
- Loosely install the new front subframe mounting bolts (four) (A), the 12 x 1.25 mm bolts (six) (B) (C), and the stiffeners (D).
- Align all reference marks (A) on the front subframe (B) with the body, then tighten the bolts on the front subframe to the specified torque.
- Remove the front subframe adapter and the jack.
- Install the rear mount bracket bolts.
- Install the transmission lower mount nuts.
- Connect the vacuum tube (A) on the vacuum line (B) at the front mount.
- Connect the power steering fluid hose (A) to the line (B) at the right front of the front subframe (C), then secure the hose with its hose clamp (D).
- Connect the power steering pressure switch connector.
- Attach the drive plate to the torque converter with eight bolts (A). Rotate the crankshaft pulley as necessary to tighten the bolts to 1/2 of the specified torque, then to the final torque, in a crisscross pattern. After tightening the last bolt, check that the crankshaft rotates freely.
- Install the torque converter cover (B).
- Install the dowel pin (A) in the transmission, and install the transfer assembly (B) on the transmission.
- Secure the transfer breather tube bracket (A) on the transfer assembly with the bolt, and install the breather tube (B) over the breather pipe (C) with the dot (D) on the tube facing out.
- Install the ball joints on each lower arm (A) to each knuckle (B) with the castle nuts (C) and spring clips (D).
- Install the nuts (E) to the ball joint pin (F) on each stabilizer link (G). Insert a 6 mm Allen wrench (H) in the top of the ball joint pins, and tighten the nuts to the specified torque.
- Install the tie-rod end ball joints (I) to each knuckle with the nuts (J) and new cotter pins (K).
- Install the propeller shaft (A) to the transfer companion flange (B) by aligning the reference mark (C).
- Install the exhaust pipe A and the new gaskets (B).
- Install the front subframe stiffener with the new mounting bolts.
- Install and tighten the front mount nut.
- Remove the engine hanger and support bar.
- Remove the hanger plates from the engine cylinder head, and install the connector bracket and harness clamp bracket.
- Connect the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor connector (A), output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor connector (B), 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (C), and ATF temperature sensor connector (D). Do not allow water, fluid, oil, dust, or other foreign particles to enter any of the connectors.
- Connect the ATF cooler hoses (A) to the ATF cooler lines (B), then secure the hoses with the clips (C) (see «ATF COOLER HOSE REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Connect the transmission range switch connector (A), and install the harness clamp (B) on the clamp bracket (C).
- Install the transmission ground cable (D).
- Connect A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A connector, B connector, C connector, and 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch connector (D). Do not allow water, fluid, oil, dust, or other foreign particles to enter any of the connectors.
- Secure the harness cover (A) with the bolts.
- Connect the shift cable end (A) to the control lever (B), and secure the cable end with the spring clip/ washer (C).
- Secure the shift cable bracket (D) with the nuts.
- Connect the starter cables (A) to the starter, and install the harness clamp (B) on the bracket (C).
- Connect the solenoid harness connector (D), and install the harness clamp (E) on the clamp bracket.
- Connect the transmission breather tube (A) to the breather pipe (B) at the transmission housing, and install the tube in the clamp (C) at the dot (D) on the tube with facing out.
- Install the battery base.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket on the battery.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Install the power steering pump outlet hose (A) with a new O-ring (B) to the pump (C), and secure the hose clamp (D) with the bolt.
- Install the intake air duct and engine covers.
- Connect the steering joint (A) to the steering gearbox pinion shaft (B) by aligning the reference mark (C), and secure them with the steering joint bolt.
- Install the steering joint cover (D), and put the carpet back.
- Remove the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system__steering-wheel-removal) ).
- Center the SRS cable reel and install the steering wheel (see «STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) ).
- Refill the power steering system with fluid (see «PUMP REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/manual-power-steering/#power-steering-system) ).
- Refill the transmission with ATF (see step 5 ).
- Install the splash shield.
- Connect the battery positive terminal, then connect the negative terminal. Apply grease to the terminals.
- Set the parking brake. Start the engine, and shift the transmission through all gears three times.
- Check the shift lever operation, A/T gear position indicator operation, and shift cable adjustment.
- Check and adjust the front wheel alignment (see «WHEEL ALIGNMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/wheel-alignment/#front-suspension-and-rear-suspension__wheel-alignment) ).
- Reattach the right and left hood support struts.
- Start the engine, and let it reach normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on) with the transmission in the P or N position, then turn it off and check the ATF level (see «ATF LEVEL CHECK»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__atf-level-check) ).
- Do the PCM idle learn procedure (see «PCM IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/testing-diagnostics/#idle-control-system__pcm-idle-learn-procedure) ).
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Confirm that all systems work properly.
- Do the road test (see «ROAD TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
- Loosen the front mount nut after the road test, then retighten the nut to the specified torque.
ATF Cooler Cleaning
Special Tools Required
- ATF Cooler Cleaner GHTTTCF6H
- Magnetic Non bypass Spin-on Filter GTHGNBP2
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured automatic transmission, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat automatic transmission failure.
The cleaning procedure involves heated ATF-Z1 delivered under high pressure (100 psi). Check the security of all hoses and connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, along with gloves and protective clothing. If you get ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
| WARNING | Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow this procedure. |
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- Check the fluid in the cooler cleaner tank. (The fluid level should be 4.5 inches from the top of the filler neck.) Adjust the level if needed; do not overfill. Use only Acura ATF-Z1; do not use any additives.
- Plug the cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet. NOTE: Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light; you could damage the unit.
- Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON; the green indicator above the toggle switch comes on. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to 150°F.) NOTE: If the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on, the fluid level in the tank is too low for the tank heater to work (see step 1 of this procedure).
- Select the appropriate pair of fittings, and attach them to the radiator, to the hoses, or to the banjo bolts for flow through the ATF cooler cleaner.
- Connect the red hose to the cooler outlet line (the line that normally goes to the external filter on the transmission).
- Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet line.
- Connect a shop air hose (regulated to 100 to 125 psi) to the air purge valve. NOTE: The quick-connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
- Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON; the green indicator above the toggle switch comes on. Let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the cleaning process. Always open the valve slowly. At the end of the 5-minutes cleaning period, leave the air purge valve open. NOTE: While the pump is running with the air purge valve open, it is normal to see vapor coming from the filler/breather tube vents.
- With the air purge valve open, flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF; the green indicator goes off. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines and hoses of residual ATF, then close the valve.
- Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler. Now connect the red hose to the cooler inlet line.
- Now connect the blue hose to the cooler outlet line.
- Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is running, open and close the air purge valve periodically. Always open the valve slowly. At the end of the 5-minutes cleaning period, leave the air purge valve open. NOTE: While the pump is running with the air purge valve open, it is normal to see vapor coming from the filler/breather tube vents.
- With the air purge valve open, flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF. Leave the air purge valve open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines and hoses of residual ATF, then close the valve.
- Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines.
- Connect the red and blue hoses to each other.
- Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
- Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
- Unplug the cooler cleaner from the 110 V outlet.
Tool Maintenance
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly
Scheme 326
- Replace the two magnetic non bypass spin-on filters once a year or when you notice a restriction in the ATF flow.
- Check the level and condition of the fluid in the tank before each use.
- Replace the ATF in the tank when it looks dark or dirty.
Scheme 327
- Connect the cooler hoses (A) to the ATF cooler lines (B) and ATF cooler, and secure them with the clips (C).
- Clamp the ATF cooler hose with the yellow mark (D) on the clamp (E).
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Scheme 330
- Shift the transmission into the R position.
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Remove the nut securing the shift cable end (A), then separate the end from the shift lever assembly.
- Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) counterclockwise a quarter turn, then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift lever bracket base (C). NOTE: Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (D) and damper (E).
- Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and the switch assembly connector (6P) (B).
- Remove the four bolts (C) securing the shift lever bracket base, then remove the shift lever assembly.
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- Install the shift lever assembly.
- Connect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and the switch assembly connector (6P) (B).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on.
- If necessary, push the shift cable unit it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable guide (A) and damper (B) to adjust the shift cable (C).
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Place the shift lever in the R position, then insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin (A) into the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket base through the positioning hole on the shift lever assembly, and into the positioning hole. The shift lever is secured in the R position.
- Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) counterclockwise a quarter turn, then slide the holder onto the shift lever bracket base (C). Install the shift cable end (D) over the mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square shape (G) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder clockwise a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. NOTE: Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H) and damper (I).
- Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
- If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the shift lever bracket base, and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud while the shift cable is on the shift cable bracket base.
- Install and tighten the nut.
- Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever.
- Move the shift lever to each gear, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
- Push the shift lock release, and verify that the shift lever releases.
- Reinstall the center console, console panel, and related parts (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
Shift Lever Disassembly/Reassembly
Apply silicone grease to these parts
Scheme 338
- Movable parts of the shift lever.
- Movable parts of the shift lock/reverse lock mechanism.
- Sliding surfaces on the opening of the indicator panel and panel holder.
- Sliding surfaces on the detent plate.
- Contact surfaces between the shift lever assembly and the shift lock stop.
- Detent plunger and detent plunger spring.
Scheme 339
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Scheme 342
- Raise the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
- Shift the transmission into the R position.
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Remove the nut securing the shift cable end (A), then separate the end from the shift lever assembly.
- Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) counterclockwise a quarter turn, then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift lever bracket base (C).
- Remove the shift cable guide bracket (A) and grommet (B).
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the intake air duct.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolt securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Remove the shift cable, insert the new shift cable through the grommet hole, then install the shift cable guide bracket.
- Verify that the transmission is in the R position on the control lever.
- Connect the shift cable end to the control lever, and secure the cable end with the spring clip/washer.
- Secure the shift cable bracket with the nuts.
- Install the battery base, then install the intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Install the shift cable on the shift cable bracket base, refer to the shift cable adjustment (see «SHIFT CABLE ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
Scheme 343
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- Shift the transmission into the R position.
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Remove the nut securing the shift cable end (A), then separate the end from the shift lever assembly.
- Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) counterclockwise a quarter turn, then slide the holder to remove the shift cable from the shift lever bracket base (C). NOTE: Do not remove the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (D) and damper (E).
- Push the shift cable until it stops, then release your hand. Pull the shift cable back one step so that the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable guide (A) and damper (B) to adjust the shift cable (C).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and verify that the R position indicator comes on.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Insert a 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin (A) into the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket base through the positioning hole on the shift lever assembly, and into the positioning hole. The shift lever is secured in the R position.
- Rotate the socket holder (A) on the shift cable (B) counterclockwise a quarter turn, then slide the holder onto the shift lever bracket base (C). Install the shift cable end (D) over the mounting stud (E) by aligning its square hole (F) with the square shape (G) at the bottom of the stud. Rotate the holder clockwise a quarter turn to secure the shift cable. NOTE: Do not install the shift cable by twisting the shift cable guide (H) and damper (I).
- Verify that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
- If improperly installed, remove the shift cable from the shift lever bracket base, and reinstall the shift cable. Do not install the shift cable end on the mounting stud while the shift cable is on the shift cable bracket base.
- Install and tighten the nut.
- Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever.
- Move the shift lever to each gear, and verify that the A/T gear position indicator follows the transmission range switch.
- Push the shift lock release, and verify that the shift lever releases.
- Reinstall the center console, console panel, and related parts (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
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D5 Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
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- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the D5 indicator. Does the D5 indicator come on and stay on? YES - Go to step 2. NO - If the indicator comes on for 2 seconds and then goes off, it's normal. If it doesn't come on at all, go to step 12 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P), and disconnect the HAS from the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal B3 and body ground. Is there voltage? YES - Repair short to power in the wire between PCM connector terminal B3 and the gauge assembly. NO - Go to step 7.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Reconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. Is the D5 indicator still on? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 2 and body ground. Is there voltage? YES - Faulty PCM or gauge assembly. NO - Check for a short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B20 and the transmission range switch.
- Make sure the HAS is not connected to the DLC.
- Shift the shift lever into the D5 position. Does the D5 indicator on? YES - Check for loose terminal fit in the PCM connector terminal B3, and recheck the D5 indicator several times. If the problem is intermittent, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. If the indicator then works OK every time, replace the original PCM. NO - Go to step 14.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P), and disconnect the HAS from the DLC.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 18. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), and repair poor ground (G101, G102).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals A18 and A73. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 20. NO - Repair open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal A18 and PGM-FI main relay.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Reconnect PCM connector A (73P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) and C (14P) (2003-2004 models) or (16P) (2005-2006 models).
- Connect a digital multimeter between gauge assembly connector terminals A28 and C9 (2003-2004 models) or C12 (2005-2006 models). Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the voltage at the digital multimeter. 2003-2004 models 2005-2006 models Is there voltage for at least 2 seconds? YES - Check for a faulty D5 indicator bulb (2003-2004 models) or a faulty printed circuit board in the gauge assembly. NO - Go to step 24.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, and connect a digital multimeter between gauge assembly connector terminal A28 and body ground.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check the voltage at the digital multimeter. 2003-2004 models 2005-2006 models Is there voltage for at least 2 seconds? YES - Repair open in the wire between gauge assembly connector terminal C9 (2003-2004 models) or C12 (2005-2006 models) and ground (G 501), or repair poor ground (G501). NO - Check for an open or short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B3 and the gauge assembly. If the wire is OK, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck, if the indicator works properly, replace the original PCM.
A/T TEMP Indicator Circuit Troubleshooting
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
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- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the A/T TEMP indicator. Does the A/T TEMP indicator come on for about 2 seconds, then stay on? YES - If the indicator comes on for about 2 seconds, goes out for 0.5 second, then comes back on, ATF temperature is high. Cool the ATF temperature down, and recheck the indicator. If the indicator remains on, go to step 2. NO - If the indicator comes on for about 2 seconds and then goes off, it's normal. If it doesn't come on at all, go to step 6 .
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P), and disconnect the HAS from the DLC.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the A/T TEMP indicator. Does the indicator remain on? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B4 and the gauge assembly. If the wire is OK, check for a faulty circuit board in the gauge assembly. NO - Substitute a known-good PCM, and recheck.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector A (73P), and disconnect the PGM Tester or HAS from the DLC.
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B4 and gauge assembly connector terminal A24. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B4 and the gauge assembly.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Repair open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), and repair poor ground (G101, G102).
- Reconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P).
- Connect PCM connector terminal B4 to body ground with a jumper wire, and turn the ignition switch ON (II). Does the A/T TEMP indicator come on? YES - Check for a loose or poor connection at PCM connector terminal B4. If necessary, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. NO - Replace faulty printed circuit board in the gauge assembly.
2003-2004 Models
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
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- Remove the gauge assembly from the dashboard, then disconnect gauge assembly connectors A (30P) and C (14P).
- Inspect the connectors and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair or replace them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Check for voltage between gauge assembly connector terminals and body ground in each shift lever position: Between A7 (BLK/BLU) and ground in the P position. Between A8 (WHT) and ground in the R position. Between A9 (RED/BLK) and ground in the N position. Between A27 (YEL) and ground in the D4 position. Between A11 (PNK) and ground in the D3 position. Between A10 (BLU) and ground in the 2 position. Between A12 (BRN) and ground in the 1 position. There should be 0 V at each terminal to ground in each position, and there should be battery voltage in any other position.
- Move the shift lever into the D5 position, and check for voltage between gauge assembly connector terminal A28 (BLK/RED) and body ground. There should be about 5 V in the D5 position. There should be 0 V in any other shift lever position.
- If the test result are different, check for an open in the wire(s), a faulty transmission range switch, or a faulty PCM.
- Check for voltage between terminal C7 (YEL) and body ground with the ignition switch turned ON (II). There should be battery voltage. If there is 0 V, check for a blown No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box or an open in the wire.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between terminal C9 (BLK) and body ground. There should be continuity to ground under all conditions. If there is no continuity, check for an open in the wire, or poor ground (G501).
- Connect gauge assembly connectors A (30P) and C (14P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check for voltage within about 2 seconds between terminals A24 (RED/GRN) and body ground, and between A28 (BLK/RED) and ground. There should be battery voltage within about 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
- If all input tests prove OK, but the indicator is faulty, replace the printed circuit board in the gauge assembly.
2005-2006 Models
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
Scheme 368
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- Remove the gauge assembly from the dashboard, then disconnect gauge assembly connectors A (30P) and C (16P).
- Inspect the connectors and connector terminals to be sure they are making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair or replace them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Check for voltage between gauge assembly connector terminals and body ground in each shift lever position: Between A7 (BLK/BLU) and ground in the P position. Between A8 (WHT) and ground in the R position. Between A9 (RED/BLK) and ground in the N position. Between A27 (YEL) and ground in the D4 position. Between A11 (PNK) and ground in the D3 position. Between A10 (BLU) and ground in the 2 position. Between A12 (BRN) and ground in the 1 position. There should be 0 V at each terminal to ground in each position, and there should be about 5 V in any other position.
- Move the shift lever into the D5 position, and check for voltage between gauge assembly connector terminal A28 (BLK/RED) and body ground. There should be battery voltage in the D5 position, and there should be 0 V in any position other than the D5.
- If the test result are different, check for an open in the wire(s), a faulty transmission range switch, or a faulty PCM.
- Check for voltage between gauge assembly connector terminal C10 (YEL) and body ground with the ignition switch turned ON (II). There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check for a blown No. 9 (10 A) fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box or an open in the wire.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF, and check for continuity between connector terminal C12 (BLK) and body ground. There should be continuity to ground under all conditions. If there is no continuity, check for an open in the wire, or poor ground (G501).
- Connect gauge assembly connectors A (30P) and C (16P).
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and check for voltage in about 2 seconds between connector terminals A24 (RED/GRN) and body ground, and between A28 (BLK/RED) and ground. There should be battery voltage within about 2 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
- If all input tests prove OK, but the indicator is faulty, replace the gauge assembly.
Scheme 372
Scheme 373
- Disconnect transmission range switch connector.
- Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity between the terminals in the table for each switch position. Transmission Range Switch Harness Connector
- If there is no continuity between any terminals, check that the transmission range switch installation. If the installation is OK, replace the switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
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- Remove the intake air duct.
- Get the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, and write down the audio presets and disconnect the battery negative terminal, then disconnect the battery positive terminal.
- Remove the battery hold-down bracket, then remove the battery and battery tray.
- Remove the four bolt securing the battery base in the engine compartment, then remove the battery base.
- Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A).
- Remove the spring clip/washer (B) from the control lever (C), and disconnect the shift cable end (D) from the control lever.
- Pry the lock tab of the lock washer (A) on the control lever (B), and remove the nut (C), lock washer, spring washer (D) and control lever.
- Pry the lock tabs of the lock washer (E) on the transmission range switch (F), hold the selector control shaft (G) with a 6.0 mm wrench, and loosen the lock nut (H).
- Remove the lock nut and lock washer, then remove the transmission range switch (two bolts).
- Set the new transmission range switch (A) to the N position. The transmission range switch clicks in the N position, and the control shaft hole (B) aligns with the N positioning line (C).
- Set the selector control shaft to the N position by turning the control shaft with a 6.0 mm wrench.
- Install the transmission range switch (A) gently over the selector control shaft (B), and install the bolts loosely.
- Install the new lock washer (A) over the selector control shaft (B) with aligning the projection (C) of the lock washer with the N positioning line (D) on the transmission range switch (E), and install the lock nut (F).
- Push the lock nut against the transmission housing to seat the transmission range switch into the selector control shaft, and tighten the lock nut to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft) while holding the selector control shaft with a 6 mm wrench, then bend the lock tabs against the lock nut.
- Tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft) securing the transmission range switch.
- Install the control lever (A), spring washer (B), lock washer (C), and lock nut (D) on the selector control shaft (E).
- If the lever cover (F) was removed or replaced, install the lever cover on the control lever.
- Connect the shift cable end to the control lever, and secure the cable end with the spring clip/washer.
- Secure the shift cable bracket with the nuts.
- Install the battery base, then install the intake air duct.
- Install the battery tray and battery, then secure the battery with its hold-down bracket. Connect the battery terminals.
- Clean the battery posts and cable terminals with sandpaper, then assemble them and apply grease to prevent corrosion.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the transmission range switch synchronization with the A/T gear position indicator.
- Check that the engine can start in the P and N positions, and cannot start in any other shift lever position.
- Check that the back up lights come on when the shift lever is in the R position.
- Allow the all wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the shift lever operation.
- Do the power window control unit reset procedure (see «RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/windows/#power-windows) ).
- Enter the audio and navigation anti-theft codes, then enter the presets, and set the clock.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
Scheme 383
- Remove the gauge assembly (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Disassemble the gauge assembly.
- Replace the bulbs (A) in the gauge assembly (B).
Scheme 384
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Disconnect the switch assembly connector (6P).
- Shift the shift lever into the 1 position, then check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 3 terminals. There should be continuity.
- Shift the shift lever out of the 1 position, and check for continuity between the terminals in step 3 . There should be no continuity.
- If the 1st-hold switch is faulty, remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and replace the detent bracket (see «SHIFT LEVER DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-disassemblyreassembly) ). (The 1st-hold switch is not available separately).
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- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Choose Shift Lock Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift lock solenoid operates with the HAS. Does the shift lock solenoid work properly? YES - Go to step 14 . NO - Go to step 3.
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Check for a blown No. 8 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between the shift lock solenoid connector and the driver's under-fuse /relay box.
- Shift the shift lever into the P position, and press the brake pedal. Do not press the accelerator.
- Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pressing the brake pedal. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Go to step 10 .
- Release the brake pedal, and measure the voltage between connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. The shift lever must be in the P position. Is there battery voltage? YES - Repair a short to ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal E2 and the shift lock solenoid. NO - Check shift lock solenoid mechanism. If the mechanism is OK, replace the shift lock solenoid (see «SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B1 and shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. NO - Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B1 and the shift lock solenoid.
- Press the brake pedal. Are the brake lights ON? YES - Go to step 15. NO - Repair faulty brake light circuit.
- With the brake pedal depressed, check the BRAKE SWITCH INPUT in the ENGINE DATA list with the HAS. Is ON indicated? YES - Go to step 32 . NO - Go to step 16.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Jump the SCS line with the HAS.
- Disconnect PCM connectors A (73P) and B (56P).
- Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminals B39 and A39 or A40 while pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pedal is released. Is there battery voltage while the brake pedal is pressing, and no voltage when the pedal is released? YES - Go to step 22 . NO - Go to step 20.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B39 and brake pedal position switch 4P connector terminal No. 2. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 21. NO - Repair an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B39 and the brake pedal position switch.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminals A39 and body ground, between A40 and body ground, and between A73 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. NO - Repair an open in the wires between PCM connector terminals A39, A40, A73, and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102).
- Connect PCM connectors A (73P) and B (56P).
- Disconnect the transmission range switch connector.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Measure the voltage between transmission range switch connector terminals No. 4 and No. 5. Is there voltage (2003-2004 models) or about 5 V (2005-2006 models)? YES - Go to step 32 . NO - Go to step 26.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Disconnect PCM connector B (56P).
- Disconnect gauge assembly connector A (30P) (see «GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#gauges) ).
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B22 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between PCM connector terminal B22 and the transmission range switch. NO - Go to step 30.
- Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B22 and transmission range switch connector terminal No. 4. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 31. NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B22 and the transmission range switch.
- Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 5 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. NO - Repair open in the wire between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 5 and ground (G101, G102), or repair poor ground (G101, G102).
- Test the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Is the switch OK? YES - Connect the transmission range switch connector, then go to step 33. NO - Replace the transmission range switch (see «TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Connect the HAS to the DLC.
- Check the APP SENSOR-1 input in the ENGINE DATA list with the HAS. Do not press the accelerator. Is the APP SENSOR-1 opening 11 % and above, or the sensor voltage 0.90 V and above? YES - Go to step 35. NO - Substitute a known-good PCM and recheck.
- Check the throttle cable adjustment (see «IMT (IMRC) ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/testing-diagnostics/#intake-air-system) ). Is the throttle cable adjustment within the specification? YES - Check APP Sensor-1 terminal pin fit, and repair if necessary. If the pin fit is OK, replace the APP Sensor-1 (see «APP SENSOR SIGNAL INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/testing-diagnostics/#electronic-throttle-control-system__app-sensor-signal-inspection) ). NO - Adjust the throttle cable or repair the throttle linkage.
Scheme 399
Scheme 400
Scheme 401
Scheme 402
- Check whether the HAS indicates P0705 or P0706. Does the HAS indicate either code? YES - Perform the troubleshooting flowchart for the indicated code(s). NO - Go to step 2.
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Shift the shift lever into the P position while pushing the shift lock release.
- Turn the ignition switch ON (II).
- Press the brake pedal, and do not press the accelerator pedal.
- Shift the shift lever out of the P position to check that the shift lock solenoid operates. Does the shift lever shift out of the P position? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Perform the troubleshooting flowchart for the Shift Lock System Circuit (see «SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Turn the ignition switch OFF.
- Remove the shift lock relay.
- Check for continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals of the shift lock relay while connecting the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal of the shift lock relay, and connecting the negative terminal to the No. 3 terminal. Is there no continuity when connecting the battery terminals, and continuity when disconnecting the battery terminals? YES - Go to step 10. NO - Replace the shift lock relay.
- Shift the shift lever into the N position.
- Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the shift lock relay harness connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 12. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 4 terminal of the shift lock relay and the transmission range switch.
- Shift the shift lever out of the N position.
- Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the shift lock relay harness connector and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between the No. 4 terminal of the shift lock relay and the transmission range switch. NO - Go to step 14.
- Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the shift lock relay harness connector and the No. 2 terminal of the shift lock solenoid connector. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose terminal fit in the connectors. Repair the reverse lock mechanism. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 1 terminal of the shift lock relay and the shift lock solenoid connector.
Scheme 403
Scheme 404
Scheme 405
Scheme 406
Scheme 407
- Disconnect the key switch connector (7P) from the steering lock assembly.
- Connect the No. 7 terminal of the key switch connector to the battery positive terminal, and connect the No. 5 terminal to the battery negative terminal.
- Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), then push the ignition key.
- Check the key interlock solenoid operation. A clicking sound should be heard while pushing the ignition key, and you should not be able to turn it to the OFF position. Does the key interlock solenoid operate properly? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Faulty key interlock solenoid/switch. Replace the ignition key cylinder/steering lock assembly.
- Measure the voltage between the No. 7 terminal and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 6. NO - Check for a blown No. 47 (20 A) fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open or short in the wire between the No. 7 terminal of the key switch connector and underhood fuse/relay box.
- Disconnect the switch assembly connector (6P) on the shift lever.
- With the shift lever in Park and pushed to the right, check for continuity between the No. 4 and No. 2 terminals of the switch assembly connector (6P). Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 8. NO - Repair open in the wires between the park pin switch and the switch assembly connector (6P). If the wires are OK, remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and replace the shift lever detent bracket assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-disassemblyreassembly) ).
- Check for continuity between the No. 4 terminal of the switch assembly connector (6P) and the No. 5 terminal of the key switch connector. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 9. NO - Repair open in the wire between No. 4 terminal of the switch assembly connector (6P) and the No. 5 terminal of the key switch connector.
- Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal of the switch assembly connector (6P) and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Check for loose terminal pin fit in the key switch connector and switch assembly connector (6P). If necessary, substitute a known-good steering lock assembly. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 terminal of the switch assembly connector (6P) and ground (G401), or repair poor ground (G401).
Key Interlock Solenoid/Switch Test
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations (see COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX ), and the precautions and procedures (see PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES ) before performing repairs or service.
Scheme 408
- Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover (see «INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/exteriorinterior-trim/#dashboard__instrument-panel-removalinstallation) ).
- Disconnect the key switch connector (7P) from the steering lock assembly.
- Check for continuity between the No. 5 and No. 7 terminals when the key is pushed, and check for no continuity when the key is released.
- Check that the key cannot be removed with power connected to the No. 7 terminal and ground connected to the No. 3 terminals. If the key cannot be removed, the key interlock solenoid is OK. If the key can be removed, replace the steering lock assembly (the key interlock solenoid is not available separately).
Scheme 409
- Connect the HAS to the DLC (A).
- Choose Shift Lock Solenoid Test in Miscellaneous Test Menu, and check that the shift lock solenoid operates with the HAS.
- Check that the shift lever can be moved out of the P position when Shift Lock Solenoid: ON. Move the shift lever back in the P position, and make sure it locks with Shift Lock Solenoid: OFF.
- Check that the shift lock releases when the shift lock release is pushed, and check that it locks when the shift lock release is released.
- If the shift lock solenoid does not work properly, perform shift lock system troubleshooting (see «SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
Scheme 410
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Remove the shift lever knob and A/T gear position indicator panel/bracket assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-disassemblyreassembly) ).
- Remove the bolts (four) securing the detent bracket and the shift lever bracket base, then separate them.
- Remove the shift lock solenoid from the detent bracket.
- Install the shift lock solenoid plunger (A) and plunger spring (B) in the new shift lock solenoid (C).
- Install the shift lock solenoid on the detent bracket (D) by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid plunger with the tip of the shift lock stop (E).
- Install the detent bracket on the shift lever bracket base with the bolts and nuts.
- Install the A/T gear position indicator panel/bracket assembly and shift lever knob.
- Install the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Install the center console, console panel, and related parts (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
Scheme 411
- Remove the console panel and center console (see «CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/gauges-instrument-panels/#consoles__center-console-removalinstallation) ).
- Disconnect the switch assembly connector (6P).
- Shift the shift lever into the P position, then check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 4 terminals. There should be continuity.
- Shift the shift lever out of the P position, and check for continuity between the terminals in step 3 . There should be no continuity.
- If the park pin switch is faulty, remove the shift lever assembly (see «SHIFT LEVER REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and replace the detent bracket (see «SHIFT LEVER DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__shift-lever-disassemblyreassembly) ). (The park pin switch is not available separately.)
Transmission Disassembly
Special Tools Required
Mainshaft holder 07GAB-PF50101 or 07PAB-0010001
Scheme 412
Scheme 413
Scheme 414
Scheme 415
Scheme 416
Scheme 417
Scheme 418
Scheme 419
Scheme 420
Scheme 421
- Remove the ATF dipstick (A) and the dipstick guide pipe (B).
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve A and B (C) (six bolts), ATF feed pipes (D) (three), O-rings (three), and gasket.
- Remove the solenoid valve cover (E) (seven bolts), dowel pins (two), and gasket.
- Disconnect solenoid valve connectors, then remove the solenoid harness connector (F).
- Remove the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C (G) (four bolts), ATF feed pipes (H) (three), O-rings (two), and gasket.
- Pry the lock tab of the lock washer (I) on the control lever (J), and remove the nut, lock washer, spring washer and control lever.
- Pry the lock tabs of the lock washer (K) on the transmission range switch (L), hold the selector control shaft (M) with a 6.0 mm wrench, and loosen the lock nut (N).
- Remove the lock nut and lock washer, then remove the transmission range switch (two bolts).
- Remove the output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (O), input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (P), ATF temperature sensor (Q), and the sensor harness clamp bracket (R).
- Remove the end cover (S) (three bolts), snap ring cap (T) (two bolts), sealing plug (U), and washer (V).
- Remove the line bolts (W), ATF cooler lines (X) and sealing washers (Y).
- Remove 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (Z) and washer.
- Remove 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (AA) and sealing washer.
- Slip the special tool onto the mainshaft.
- Cut the lock tab (A) of the mainshaft lock nut (B) using a chisel (C). NOTE: keep all of the chiseled particles out of the transmission.
- Remove the lock nut (A) from the mainshaft (B).
- Pry the lock washer (C), and remove it.
- Remove the transmission housing mounting bolts (24 bolts), and transmission hanger (A) and ground terminal bracket (B).
- While expanding the snap ring of the countershaft bearing using the snap ring pliers, then lift the transmission housing.
- Release the pliers, and remove the transmission housing (C), two dowel pins (D), and gasket.
- Remove the ATF feed pipes (E) (four) from the accumulator body.
- Remove the ATF feed pipes (F) (two) from the torque converter housing.
- Remove the special tool from the mainshaft.
- Pry the lock tab of the lock washer (G) on the shift fork (H), then remove the bolt and lock washer.
- Unlock the detent spring from the detent arm.
- Remove the park pawl stop (I), park pawl (J), pawl spring (K), and pawl shaft (L).
- Remove the mainshaft (M), countershaft (N), shift fork (H), and secondary shaft (O) together, and remove the needle bearing (P) from the toque converter housing.
- Remove the selector control shaft and park lever link (Q).
- Remove the baffle plate (R).
- Remove the differential assembly (S).
- Remove the transfer output shaft (T).
- Remove the intermediary shaft (U).
- Remove the ATF strainer (A) (one bolt).
- Remove the accumulator body (B) (11 bolts), dowel pins (two), detent arm (C), arm shaft (D), and separator plate (E).
- Remove the ATF feed pipe (F) from the main valve body.
- Remove the secondary valve body (G) (one bolt), dowel pins (two), and separator plate (H). Do not let the check balls (I) (three) and the choke (J) fall out.
- Remove the regulator valve body (K) (nine bolts), stator shaft (L), stator shaft stop (M), dowel pins (two), and separator plate (N).
- Remove the main valve body (O) (8 mm: three bolts, 6 mm: seven bolts). Do not let the cooler check valve (ball) (P), spring (Q), and lubrication check valve (R) fall out.
- Remove the torque converter check valve (S) and valve spring (T).
- Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft (U), then remove the ATF pump gears (V).
- Remove the dowel pins (two) and main separator plate (W).
- Remove the ATF passage pipe (X).
- Remove the ATF magnet (Y), clean it, then reinstall.
- Remove the O-ring (Z) from the ATF strainer, and replace the new O-ring when reassembling the transmission.
- Remove the O-ring (AA) from the stator shaft, and replace the new O-ring when reassembling the transmission.
- Clean the inlet opening (A) of the ATF strainer (B) thoroughly with compressed air, then check that it is good condition and that inlet opening is not clogged.
- Test the ATF strainer by pouring clean ATF through the inlet opening, and replace if it is clogged or damaged.
Scheme 422
- Remove the reverse idler gear assembly (A) from the transmission housing.
- Install the reverse idler gear assembly with the two dowel pins (B) in the transmission housing.
Scheme 423
- Remove the snap ring (A), then remove the thrust washer (B), reverse idler gear (C), needle bearings (D), and thrust washer (E) from the reverse idler gear shaft/holder (F).
- Inspect the reverse idler gear and gear shaft for excessive wear and damage.
- Inspect the needle bearings for galling and rough movement.
- Install the thrust washer and needle bearings over the gear shaft.
- Install the reverse idler gear in the direction shown.
- Install the thrust washer, then install the snap ring to secure the idler gear.
Scheme 424
- Remove the three 6.0 mm bolts securing the ATF filter cover (A) and ATF pipe (B).
- Remove the ATF pipe from the ATF filter cover, and remove the ATF filter (C) from the cover.
- Clean the ATF filter, then check that it is in good condition, and is not clogged. Replace the ATF filter if it is clogged or damaged.
- Install the ATF filter with the new O-ring (D) in the filter cover, and install the ATF pipe in the cover, then install them in the transmission housing.
- Secure the ATF filter cover with the two bolts (E), then secure the ATF pipe with the bolt (F).
Scheme 425
- Cover the tip of 1st-hold clutch ATF feed pipe with shop rag.
- Apply air pressure to the ATF feed pipe hole of 1st-hold clutch pressure circuit, and remove the ATF feed pipe cap from the transmission housing.
Scheme 426
- Install the new O-rings (A) on the ATF feed pipe cap (B).
- Install the ATF feed pipe cap in the transmission housing. Do not pinch the O-rings.
Scheme 427
- Remove the ATF feed pipe cap from the transmission housing (see «SECONDARY SHAFT ATF FEED PIPE CAP REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Remove the snap ring (A) from the feed pipe cap (B), then remove the feed pipe guide (C), O-rings (D) (E), and 1st clutch ATF feed pipe (F).
- Replace the 1st clutch ATF feed pipe or 1st-hold clutch ATF feed pipe/ATF feed pipe cap assembly. The 1st-hold clutch ATF feed pipe/ATF feed pipe cap is not available separately.
- Install the new O-ring (D) over the 1st clutch ATF feed pipe, then install the feed pipe over the 1st-hold clutch ATF feed pipe (G) with aligning the feed pipe tabs (H) with the guide in the cap.
- Install the new O-ring (E) in the cap and feed pipe guide, then secure the guide with the snap ring.
Mainshaft Bearing Removal
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100
Scheme 428
- To remove the mainshaft bearing, expand the snap ring with the snap ring pliers, then push the bearing out. Do not remove the snap ring unless it's necessary to clean the groove in the housing.
Mainshaft Bearing Installation
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100
Scheme 429
Scheme 430
- Install the bearing in the direction shown.
- Expand the snap ring with the snap ring pliers, and insert the bearing part-way into the housing.
- Release the pliers, then push the bearing down into housing until the snap ring snaps in place around it.
- After installing the bearing, verify that the snap ring (A) is seated in the bearing and housing groove, and that the ring end gap (B) is 0-7 mm (0-0.28 in.).
Intermediary Shaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Bearing remover shaft set 20 mm 07936-3710600
- Bearing remover shaft handle 07936-3710100
- Sliding hammer weight 07741-0010201
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 37 x 40 mm 07746-0010200
Scheme 431
Scheme 432
- Remove the intermediary shaft bearing from the transmission housing with the special tools.
- Install the new bearing until it bottoms in the transmission housing with the special tools.
Park Lever Shaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Bearing remover shaft 10 mm 07936-GE00100
- Bearing remover head 10 mm 07936-GE00200
- Sliding hammer weight 07741-0010201
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
Scheme 433
Scheme 434
- Remove the park lever shaft bearing from the transmission housing with the special tools.
- Install the new bearing until it bottoms in the transmission housing with the special tools.
Control Shaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Bearing remover shaft 10 mm 07936-GE00100
- Bearing remover head 10 mm 07936-GE00200
- Sliding hammer weight 07741-0010201
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
Scheme 435
Scheme 436
- Remove the control shaft bearing from the transmission housing with the special tools.
- Install the new bearing in the transmission housing with the special tools.
Control Shaft Oil Seal Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
Scheme 437
Scheme 438
- Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
- Install the new oil seal in the transmission housing with the special tools.
Valve Body Repair
Note. Valve body repair is only necessary if one or more of the valves in a valve body do not slide smoothly in their bores. Use this procedure to free the valves.
Scheme 439
Scheme 440
- Soak a sheet of # 600 abrasive paper in ATF for about 30 minutes.
- Carefully tap the valve body so the sticking valve drops out of its bore. It may be necessary to use a small screwdriver to pry the valve free. Be careful not to scratch the bore with the screwdriver.
- Inspect the valve for any scuff marks. Use the ATF-soaked #600 paper to polish off any burrs that are on the valve, then wash the valve in solvent and dry it with compressed air.
- Roll up half of ATF-soaked # 600 paper and insert it in the valve bore of the sticking valve. Twist the paper slightly, so that it unrolls and fits the bore tightly, then polish the bore by twisting the paper as you push it in and out. NOTE: The valve body is aluminum and doesn't require much polishing to remove any burrs.
- Remove the # 600 paper. Thoroughly wash the entire valve body in solvent, then dry it with compressed air.
- Coat the valve with ATF, then drop it into its bore. It should drop to the bottom of the bore under its own weight. If not, repeat steps 4 and 5 , then retest. If the valve still sticks, replace the valve body.
- Remove the valve, and thoroughly clean it and the valve body with solvent. Dry all parts with compressed air, then reassemble using ATF as a lubricant.
Scheme 441
Scheme 442
- Coat all parts with ATF before assembly.
- Install the valves and springs in the sequence shown for the main valve body (see «MAIN VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), secondary valve body (see «SECONDARY VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), regulator valve body (see «REGULATOR VALVE BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and accumulator body (see «ACCUMULATOR BODY DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, AND REASSEMBLY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ). Refer to the following valve cap illustrations, and install each valve cap so the end shown facing up will be facing the outside of the valve body, then secure the valve cap with the valve cap clip.
- Install the valve (A) and valve spring (B) in the valve body. Push the valve spring in with a screwdriver, then install the spring seat (C).
Scheme 443
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Do not use a magnet to remove the cooler check valve, it may magnetize the check valve (ball).
- Inspect the main valve body for scoring and damage.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair (see «VALVE BODY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Replace the filter with new one, and install it and lubrication check valve in the direction shown.
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
| Valve Spring | Standard: mm (in.) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wire Diameter | O.D. | Free Length | No. of Coils | ||
| A | Cooler check valve spring | 0.6 (0.024) | 5.8 (0.228) | 14.5(0.571) | 6.8 |
| B | Lock up timing valve spring | 0.65 (0.026) | 6.6(0.260) | 34.8(1.370) | 15.6 |
| C | Shift valve D spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.6 (0.260) | 32.2(1.268) | 13.4 |
| D | Shift valve B spring | 0.8(0.031) | 6.6 (0.260) | 49.1 (1.933) | 21.7 |
| E | Shift valve A spring | 0.8(0.031) | 6.6 (0.260) | 49.1 (1.933) | 21.7 |
| LL. | Modulator valve spring | 1.6(0.063) | 10.4(0.409) | 33.5(1.319) | 9.8 |
| G | CPC valve C spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.1 (0.240) | 17.8(0.701) | 7.9 |
| H | Shift valve E spring | 0.8(0.031) | 7.1 (0.280) | 49.0(1.929) | 17.2 |
| I | Torque converter check valve spring | 1.1 (0.043) | 8.6 (0.339) | 35.0(1.378) | 12.6 |
| J | Relief valve spring | 1.1 (0.043) | 8.6 (0.339) | 32.1 (1.264) | 11.2 |
| K | Lubrication control valve spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 7.7 (0.303) | 28.8(1.134) | 10.4 |
| L | Lock up shift valve spring | 0.9 (0.035) | 7.6(0.299) | 63.0 (2.480) | 22.4 |
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Scheme 444
Scheme 445
Scheme 446
- Install the ATF pump drive gear (A), driven gear (B), and ATF pump driven gear shaft (C) in the main valve body (D). Lubricate all parts with ATF, and install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing up.
- Measure the side clearance of the ATF pump drive gear (A) and driven gear (B). ATF Pump Gears Side (Radial) Clearance Standard (New): ATF Pump Drive Gear 0.210-0.265 mm (0.0083-0.00104 in.) ATF Pump Driven Gear 0.070-0.125 mm (0.0028-0.0050 in.)
- Remove the ATF pump driven gear shaft. Measure the thrust clearance between ATF pump driven gear (A) and the valve body (B) with a straight edge (C) and a feeler gauge (D). ATF Pump Drive/Driven Gear Thrust (Axial) Clearance Standard (New): 0.03-0.06 mm (0.001-0.002 in.) Service Limit: 0.07 mm (0.003 in.)
Scheme 447
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blow out all passages.
- Do not use a magnet to remove the check balls, it may magnetize the check balls.
- Inspect the secondary valve body for scoring and damage.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair (see «VALVE BODY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Install the 1st accumulator choke in the direction shown.
| Valve Springs | Standard: mm (in.) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wire Diameter | O.D. | Free Length | No. of Coil | ||
| A | Reverse CPC valve spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.1 (0.240) | 17.8 (0.701) | 7.9 |
| B | Servo control valve spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.6 (0.260) | 35.7 (1.4606) | 17.2 |
| C | Shift valve C spring | 0.8 (0.031) | 6.6 (0.260) | 49.1 (1.933) | 21.7 |
| D | CPC valve A spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.1 (0.240) | 17.8 (0.701) | 7.9 |
| D | Kick down valve spring | 0.8 (0.031) | 6.6 (0.260) | 49.1 (1.933) | 21.7 |
| F | CPC valve B spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.1 (0.240) | 17.8 (0.701) | 7.9 |
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Scheme 448
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blowout all passages.
- Inspect the regulator valve body for scoring and damage.
- Hold the regulator spring cap in place while removing the stop bolt. The regulator spring cap is spring loaded. Once the stop bolt is removed, release the spring cap slowly so it does not pop out.
- Check all valves for free movement. If any fail to slide freely, refer to valve body repair (see «VALVE BODY»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Align the hole in the regulator spring cap with the stop bolt hole, then press the spring cap into the valve body, and tighten the stop bolt to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft).
- Install the servo valve with the new O-ring, and 3rd accumulator piston with the new O-ring.
| Valve Springs | Standard: mm (in.) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wire Diameter | O.D. | Free Length | No. of Coil | ||
| A | 3rd accumulator spring | 3.1 (0.122) | 19.6 (0.772) | 41.4 (1.630) | 5.5 |
| B | Lock up control valve spring | 0.7 (0.028) | 6.6 (0.260) | 42.9 (1.689) | 14.2 |
| 0.8 (0.031) | 6.6 (0.260) | 44.3 (1.744) | 25.5 | ||
| C | Regulator valve spring B | 1.4 (0.055) | 8.8 (0.346) | 44.0 (1.732) | 12.0 |
| D | Regulator valve spring A | 1.9 (0.075) | 14.7 (0.579) | 80.6 (3.173) | 16.1 |
| E | Stator reaction spring | 5.5 (0.217) | 37.4 (1.472) | 30.3 (1.193) | 2.1 |
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Scheme 449
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air. Blowout all passages.
- Inspect the accumulator body for scoring and damage.
- Coat all parts with ATF during assembly.
- Replace the O-rings with new ones.
| Valve Springs | Standard: mm (in.) | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wire Diameter | O.D. | Free Length | No. of Coil | ||
| A | 1st-hold accumulator spring | 2.0 (0.079) | 13.1 (0.516) | 42.9 (1.689) | 9.8 |
| B | 4th accumulator spring | 3.0 (0.118) | 19.6 (0.772) | 45.3 (1.783) | 6.4 |
| C | 1st accumulator spring A | 2.2 (0.087) | 17.7 (0.697) | 77.6 (3.055) | 12.1 |
| D | 1st accumulator spring B | 2.0 (0.079) | 11.1 (0.437) | 49.0 (1.929) | 10.0 |
| E | 2nd accumulator spring | 3.1 (0.122) | 19.6 (0.772) | 53.4 (2.102) | 7.5 |
| F | 5th accumulator spring A | 2.2 (0.087) | 16.4 (0.646) | 75.7 (2.980) | 14.2 |
| G | 5th accumulator spring B | 2.0 (0.079) | 10.0 (0.394) | 45.5 (1.791) | 11.6 |
VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS
Shift Solenoid Valve, Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Removal and Installation
Note. Do not hold the solenoid valve connector to remove and install the solenoid valve. Be sure to hold the solenoid valve body. Do not install the shift solenoid valve C before installing the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (D). If solenoid valve C is installed before torque converter clutch solenoid valve, it may damage to hydraulic control system.
Scheme 450
- Remove the mounting bolts, then remove the solenoid valves by holding the solenoid valve bodies.
- Install the new O-rings (E) on each solenoid valves. NOTE: A new solenoid valve comes with new O-rings. If you install a new solenoid valve, use the O-rings provided on it.
- Install shift solenoid valve A by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body.
- Install torque converter clutch solenoid valve by holding the solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body.
- Install shift solenoid valve C by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the bracket of torque converter clutch solenoid valve.
- Install shift solenoid valve B by holding the shift solenoid valve body; be sure to install mounting bracket contacts to the accumulator body.
Mainshaft Bearing and Oil Seal Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Adjustable bearing puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B or 07736-A01000A
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
- Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Scheme 451
Scheme 452
Scheme 453
- Remove the mainshaft bearing and oil seal with the special tool and a commercially available 3/8 "-16 slide hammer (A).
- Install the new mainshaft bearing until it bottoms in the housing with the special tools.
- Install the new oil seal flush to the housing with the special tools.
Countershaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Adjustable bearing puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B or 07736-A01000A
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100
Scheme 454
Scheme 455
Scheme 456
- Remove the countershaft bearing from the torque converter housing with the special tool and a commercially available 3/8 "-16 slide hammer (A).
- Install the ATF guide plate (A) into the housing, then install the new bearing (B) in the direction shown.
- Install the bearing (A) in the housing with the special tools; install bearing outer notch-cut (B) in depth (C) of 0-0.03 mm (0-0.001 in.) below the housing surface (D).
Secondary Shaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Adjustable bearing puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B or 07736-A01000A
- Bearing remover shaft set 30 mm 07936-8890300
- Bearing remover shaft handle 07936-3710100
- Sliding hammer weight 07741-0010201
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 37 x 40 mm 07746-0010200
- Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
Scheme 457
Scheme 458
Scheme 459
Scheme 460
Scheme 461
Scheme 462
Scheme 463
Scheme 464
- Remove the bolt, then remove the lock washer (A) and bearing set plate (B).
- Remove the secondary shaft bearing from the torque converter housing with the special tool and a commercially available 3/8 "-16 slide hammer (A).
- Remove the ATF guide collar from the torque converter housing.
- Remove 29 x 39 x 9.5 mm secondary shaft bearing from the torque converter housing with the special tools.
- Install the 29 x 39 x 9.5 mm bearing into the torque converter housing with the special tools.
- Install the new O-rings (A) on the ATF guide collar (B), then install the guide collar in the torque converter housing.
- Install the bearing in the direction shown in the housing with the special tools.
- Check that the bearing groove aligns with the set plate mounting surface, then install the set plate (A) by aligning it with the bearing groove.
- Install the new lock washer (B) and bolt, then bend the lock tab of the lock washer against the bolt head.
Special Tools Required
- Adjustable bearing puller, 25-40 mm 07736-A01000B or 07736-A01000A
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
Scheme 465
Scheme 466
Scheme 467
- Remove the intermediary shaft bearing from the torque converter housing with the special tool and a commercially available 3/8 "-16 slide hammer (A).
- Install the ATF guide plate (A), then install the new bearing (B) in the housing.
- Drive the bearing into the housing with the special tools.
Special Tools Required
- Bearing remover shaft set 12 mm 07936-1660101
- Sliding hammer weight 07741-0010201
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 22 x 24 mm 07746-0010800
Scheme 468
Scheme 469
- Remove the park lever shaft bearing from the torque converter housing with the special tools.
- Install the new bearing until it bottoms in the housing with the special tools.
Scheme 470
- Remove the thrust needle bearing (A), mainshaft 5th gear (B), needle bearing (C), thrust needle bearing (D), mainshaft 5th gear collar (E), 4th/5th clutch (F), and O-rings (G) from the mainshaft (H).
- Inspect the condition of the sealing rings (I). If the sealing rings are worn, distorted, or damaged, remove the set ring (J) and needles bearing (K), and replace the sealing rings with new ones.
- Inspect the thrust needle bearing and needle bearing for wear and rough movement.
- Inspect the splines for excessive wear and damage.
- Inspect the 4th gear for wear and damage, and inspect 4th gear bearing for wear and rough rotation.
- Replace the mainshaft 4th gear (L) if the 4th gear is worn or damaged, or the bearing is worn or damaged.
- Check shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear.
- Lubricate all parts with ATF during reassembly.
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent O-ring damage, install the new O-rings on the mainshaft, then remove the tape.
- Install the 4th/5th clutch.
- Install the mainshaft 5th gear coiler, thrust needle bearing, needle bearing, mainshaft 5th gear, and thrust needle bearing.
Mainshaft 4th Gear Replacement
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 471
Scheme 472
- Remove the mainshaft 4th gear (A) with a press. Place a shaft protector (B) between the press and mainshaft (C) to prevent damaging the mainshaft.
- Slide the new mainshaft 4th gear (A) over the mainshaft (B), then press it into place with the special tool and a press.
Scheme 473
Note. (Scheme 473)as needed the following procedure.
Scheme 474
Scheme 475
Scheme 476
- Cut the lock tab (A) of the countershaft lock nut (B) using a chisel (C). NOTE: Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the countershaft.
- Hold the countershaft with a wrench and a vise securely, loosen the lock nut, and remove it. The lock nut has left-hand threads.
- Place countershaft 5th gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a shaft protector (C) between the countershaft (D) and a press to prevent damaging the countershaft.
- Press the countershaft out of press-fitted bearing (E) and press-fitted reverse selector hub, and remove the countershaft while holding the underside of the countershaft. The countershaft falls down when pressing the countershaft out of the press-fitted reverse selector hub. Some reverse selector hubs are not press-fitted, and the countershaft falls down when pressing the countershaft out of press-fitted bearing.
- Remove the remaining parts from the countershaft.
- Inspect the bearing for galling and rough movement.
- Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
- Check the idler gear axial clearance and 4th gear axial clearance (see «COUNTERSHAFT IDLER GEAR AND 4th GEAR AXIAL CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
Scheme 477
Scheme 478
Scheme 479
Scheme 480
Scheme 481
- Install the 2nd gear (A), thrust needle bearing (B), needle bearing (C), idler gear (D), thrust needle bearing (E), 56 mm washer (F), 1st gear (G), 4th gear (H), 52 mm washer (2003-2004 models) or 50.2 mm washer (2005-2006 models) (I), 39 mm cotters (J), cotter retainer (K), and snap ring (L) on the countershaft (M).
- Insert a feeler gauge blade (A) as thick as possible between the 4th gear (B) and cotters (C).
- Set the dial indicator (A) on the idler gear (B).
- Measure the idler gear axial clearance in at least three places while moving the idler gear. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.005-0.040 mm (0.0002-0.0016 in.)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the 56 mm washer and measure its thickness.
- Select and install a new washer, then recheck the clearance. WASHER, 56 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90582-RDK-000 1.525 mm (0.0600 in.) B 90583-RDK-000 1.505 mm (0.0593 in.) C 90584-RDK-000 1.485 mm (0.0585 in.) D 90585-RDK-000 1.465 mm (0.0577 in.) E 90586-RDK-000 1.445 mm (0.0569 in.) F 90587-RDK-000 1.425 mm (0.0561 in.) G 90588-RDK-000 1.405 mm (0.0553 in.)
- Measure the clearance between the 4th gear (A) and 39 mm cotters (B) with a feeler gauge (C) in at least three places. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.005-0.040 mm (0.0002-0.0016 in.)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the 52 mm washer (2003-2006 models) or 50.2 mm washer (2005-2006 models) and measure its thickness.
- Select and install a new washer, then recheck the clearance. WASHER, 52 mm (2003-2004 models) THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90521-RDK-000 3.95 mm (0.1555 in.) B 90522-RDK-000 3.97 mm (0.1563 in.) C 90523-RDK-000 3.99 mm (0.1571 in.) D 90524-RDK-000 4.01 mm (0.1579 in.) E 90525-RDK-000 4.03 mm (0.1587 in.) F 90526-RDK-000 4.05 mm (0.1594 in.) G 90527-RDK-000 4.07 mm (0.1602 in.) H 90528-RDK-000 4.09 mm (0.1610 in.) I 90529-RDK-000 4.11 mm (0.1618 in.) J 90530-RDK-000 4.13 mm (0.1626 in.) K 90531 -RDK-000 4.15 mm (0.1634 in.) L 90532-RDK-000 4.17 mm (0.1642 in.) M 90533-RDK-000 4.19 mm (0.1650 in.) N 90534-RDK-000 4.21 mm (0.1657 in.) O 90535-RDK-000 4.23 mm (0.1665 in.) P 90536-RDK-000 4.25 mm (0.1673 in.) Q 90537-RDK-000 4.27 mm (0.1681 in.) R 90538-RDK-000 4.29 mm (0.1689 in.) S 90539-RDK-000 4.31 mm (0.1697 in.) T 90540-RDK-000 4.33 mm (0.1705 in.) U 90541-RDK-000 4.35 mm (0.1713 in.) WASHER, 50.2 mm (2005-2006 models) THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90521-RDK-010 3.95 mm (0.1555 in.) B 90522-RDK-010 3.97 mm (0.1563 in.) C 90523-RDK-010 3.99 mm (0.1571 in.) D 90524-RDK-010 4.01 mm (0.1579 in.) E 90525-RDK-010 4.03 mm (0.1587 in.) F 90526-RDK-010 4.05 mm (0.1594 in.) G 90527-RDK-010 4.07 mm (0.1602 in.) H 90528-RDK-010 4.09 mm (0.1610 in.) I 90529-RDK-010 4.11 mm (0.1618 in.) J 90530-RDK-010 4.13 mm (0.1626 in.) K 90531-RDK-010 4.15 mm (0.1634 in.) L 90532-RDK-010 4.17 mm (0.1642 in.) M 90533-RDK-010 4.19 mm (0.1650 in.) N 90534-RDK-010 4.21 mm (0.1657 in.) O 90535-RDK-010 4.23 mm (0.1665 in.) P 90536-RDK-010 4.25 mm (0.1673 in.) Q 90537-RDK-010 4.27 mm (0.1681 in.) R 90538-RDK-010 4.29 mm (0.1689 in.) S 90539-RDK-010 4.31 mm (0.1697 in.) T 90540-RDK-010 4.33 mm (0.1705 in.) U 90541-RDK-010 4.35 mm (0.1713 in.)
Countershaft Reassembly
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 482
Scheme 483
Scheme 484
Scheme 485
Scheme 486
Scheme 487
- Install the 2nd gear (A), thrust needle bearing (B), needle bearing (C), idler gear (D), thrust needle bearing (E), 56 mm washer (F), 1st gear (G), 4th gear (H), 52 mm washer (2003-2004 models) or 50.2 mm washer (2005-2006 models) (I), 39 mm cotters (J), cotter retainer (K), and snap ring (L) on the countershaft (M).
- Install the 35 x 47 x 6 mm thrust washer (N) in the direction shown, needle bearing (O), and 5th gear (P).
- Slide the reverse selector hub (A) over the countershaft (B), then press it into place with the special tool and a press. NOTE: Some reverse selector hubs are not press-fitted, and can be installed without using the special tool and a press.
- Install the reverse selector, reverse gear collar, needle bearing, and reverse gear over the reverse selector hub.
- Install the ball bearing (A) over the countershaft, then press it into place with the special tool and a press.
- Install the new conical spring washer (A) in the direction shown, and install the new lock nut (B).
- Hold the countershaft with a wrench and a vise securely, and tighten the lock nut to 167 N.m (17.0 kgf.m, 123 lbf.ft). NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lock nut. Do not use an impact wrench. The lock nut has left-hand threads.
- Stake the lock nut into its shaft in depth (A) of 0.7 - 1.3 mm (0.03-0.05 in.) using a 3.5 mm punch (B).
Scheme 488
Special Tools Required
Wrench 40 x 42 mm 07XAA-002010A
Note. (Scheme 488)as needed during the following procedure.
Scheme 489
Scheme 490
Scheme 491
- Cut the lock tab (A) of the secondary shaft lock nut (B) using a chisel (C). NOTE: Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the secondary shaft.
- Place a V-block (A) on a vise (B), and put the secondary shaft (C) on the V-block and vise.
- Attach the special tool onto the 1st clutch guide, and secure the special tool with the vise to hold the secondary shaft. Loosen the lock nut, and remove it. Remove any burrs from the splines on the shaft and splined washer.
- Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a shaft protector (C) between the secondary shaft (D) and a press to prevent damaging the secondary shaft.
- Press the secondary shaft out of press-fitted bearing (E), and remove the secondary shaft while holding the underside of the secondary shaft. The secondary shaft falls down when pressing the secondary shaft out of the press-fitted bearing.
- Remove the 32 mm snap ring, then remove the 2nd clutch.
- Remove the remaining parts from the secondary shaft.
- Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
- Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check the shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
- Check the 1st gear axial clearance (see «SECONDARY SHAFT 1st GEAR CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__secondary-shaft-1st-gear-clearance-inspection) ), 1st gear one-way clutch (see «1st GEAR ONE-WAY CLUTCH INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and secondary shaft installation height (see «SECONDARY SHAFT INSTALLATION HEIGHT INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
Scheme 492
Special Tools Required
Wrench 40 x 42 mm 07XAA-002010A
Note. (Scheme 492)
Scheme 493
Scheme 494
Scheme 495
- Cut the lock tab (A) of the secondary shaft lock nut (B) using a chisel (C). NOTE: Keep all of the chiseled particles out of the secondary shaft.
- Place a V-block (A) on a vise (B), and put the secondary shaft (C) on the V-block and vise.
- Attach the special tool onto the 1st clutch guide, and secure the special tool with the vise to hold the secondary shaft. Loosen the lock nut, and remove it. Remove burrs from splines on the shaft and splined washer.
- Place the idler gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a shaft protector (C) between the secondary shaft (D) and a press to prevent damaging the secondary shaft.
- Press the secondary shaft out of press-fitted bearing (E), and remove the secondary shaft while holding the underside of the secondary shaft. The secondary shaft falls down when pressing the secondary shaft out of the press-fitted bearing.
- Remove the 1st/1st-hold clutch, 52 mm washer, thrust needle bearing, 1st gear assembly, needle bearing, 1st gear collar, thrust needle bearing, and idler gear.
- Remove the 32 mm snap ring, and remove the 2nd clutch, splined washer, thrust needle bearing, needle bearing, 2nd gear/park gear, and thrust needle bearing.
- Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
- Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
- Check the 1st gear axial clearance (see «SECONDARY SHAFT 1ST GEAR CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__secondary-shaft-1st-gear-clearance-inspection) ), 1st gear one-way clutch (see «1ST GEAR ONE-WAY CLUTCH INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and secondary shaft installation height (see «SECONDARY SHAFT INSTALLATION HEIGHT INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
Secondary Shaft 1st Gear Clearance Inspection
Special Tools Required
- Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
- Attachment, 30 mm I.D. 07746-0030300
Scheme 496
Scheme 497
Scheme 498
Scheme 499
Scheme 500
- Install the idler gear (A), thrust needle bearing (B), 1st gear collar (C), needle bearing (D), 1st gear assembly (E), thrust needle bearing (F), 52 mm washer (G), and 1st/1st-hold clutch (H) on the secondary shaft (I). Do not install the O-rings during inspection.
- Install the ball bearing (J) over the 1st/1st-hold clutch guide with the special tools and a press.
- Install the splined washer (K) with the marked side (L) up over the ball bearing in the same manner as installing the ball bearing with the special tool and a press.
- Install the old lock nut (M) and tighten it to 29 N.m (3.0 kgf.m, 22 lbf.ft).
- Set the dial indicator (A) on the 1st gear (B).
- Measure the 1st gear axial clearance in at least three places while moving the 1st gear. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.085-0.130 mm (0.003-0.05 in.)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the washer and measure its difference.
- Select and install a new washer, then recheck the clearance. WASHER, 52 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90502-RDK-010 2.705 mm (0.107 in.) B 90503-RDK-010 2.680 mm (0.106 in.) C 90504-RDK-010 2.655 mm (0.105 in.) D 90505-RDK-010 2.630 mm (0.104 in.) E 90506-RDK-010 2.605 mm (0.103 in.) F 90507-RDK-010 2.580 mm (0.102 in.) G 90508-RDK-010 2.555 mm (0.101 in.) H 90509-RDK-010 2.530 mm (0.100 in.) 1 90510-RDK-010 2.505 mm (0.100 in.) J 90511-RDK-010 2.480 mm (0.099 in.) K 90512-RDK-000 2.455 mm (0.097 in.) L L90513-RDK-000 2.430 mm (0.096 in.) M 90514-RDK-000 2.405 mm (0.095 in.)
Scheme 501
- Hold the 1st-hold clutch hub (A), and turn the 1st gear (B) in the direction shown to be sure it turns freely. Also make sure the 1st gear locks in the opposite direction.
- If any problem occurs on the 1st gear one-way clutch, replace the 1st clutch hub (C). The 1st gear one-way clutch is not available separately from the 1st clutch hub.
1st Clutch Hub Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Driver attachment 07947-6340500
- Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
Scheme 502
Scheme 503
- Remove the 1st-hold clutch hub (A) from the 1st gear (B) with the special tools and a press.
- Remove the 1st clutch hub (C) from the 1st gear, then install the new 1st clutch hub in the 1st gear.
- Install the 1st-hold clutch hub (A) in the 1st gear (B) with the special tools and a press.
Secondary Shaft Reassembly
Special Tools Required
- Driver, 40 mm I. D. 07746-0030100
- Attachment, 30 mm I. D. 07746-0030300
- Wrench 40 x 42 mm 07XAA-002010A
Scheme 504
Scheme 505
Scheme 506
Scheme 507
Scheme 508
Scheme 509
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape, and install the new O-rings (A) in the 2nd clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape.
- Install the 2nd clutch (B) on the secondary shaft (C), and secure it with the snap ring (D).
- Install the thrust needle bearing (E), needle bearing (F), 2nd gear/park gear assembly (G) with aligning the 2nd clutch.
- Install the thrust needle bearing (H), idler gear (I) in the direction shown, thrust needle bearing (J), 1st gear collar (K), needle bearing (L), 1st gear assembly (M), thrust needle bearing (N), and 52 mm washer (O) in the direction shown.
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape, and install the new O-rings (P) in the 1st/1st-hold clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape. NOTE: To prevent damage to the O-rings, be sure to install the O-rings after installing the 1st gear collar and 52 mm washer.
- Install the 1st/1st-hold clutch (Q).
- Install the ball bearing (R) over the 1st/1st-hold clutch guide with the special tools and a press.
- Install the new splined washer (A) with the marked side (B) up over the ball bearing with the special tools and a press.
- Install the new lock nut (C).
- Place a V-block (A) on a vise (B), and put the secondary shaft (C) on the V-block and vise.
- Attach the special tool onto the 1st clutch guide, and secure the special tool with the vise to hold the secondary shaft. Tighten the lock nut to 178 N.m (18.2 kgf.m, 132 lbf.ft) with the torque wrench (D). NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lock nut. Do not use an impact wrench. The lock nut has left-hand threads.
- Stake the lock nut into its shaft in depth (A) of 0.7- 1.3 mm (0.03-0.05 in.) using a 3.5 mm punch (B).
Special Tools Required
- Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
- Driver attachment, 30 mm I.D. 07746-0030300
- Wrench 40 x 42 mm 07XAA-002010A
Scheme 510
Scheme 511
Scheme 512
Scheme 513
Scheme 514
Scheme 515
- Install the thrust needle bearing (A), needle bearing (B), 2nd gear/park gear (C), thrust needle bearing (D), and splined washer (E) in the direction shown on the secondary shaft (F).
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape, and install the new O-rings (G) in 2nd clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape. NOTE: To prevent damage to the O-rings, be sure to install the O-rings after installing the splined washer.
- Install the 2nd clutch (H) on the secondary shaft, and secure the 2nd clutch with the snap ring (I).
- Install the idler gear (J) in the direction shown, thrust needle bearing (K), 1st gear collar (L), needle bearing (M), 1st gear assembly (N), thrust needle bearing (O), and 52 mm washer (P) in the direction shown on the secondary shaft.
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape, and install the new O-rings (Q) in 1st/1st-hold clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape. NOTE: To prevent damage to the O-rings, be sure to install the O-rings after installing the 1st gear collar and 52 mm washer.
- Install the 1st/1st-hold clutch (R).
- Install the ball bearing (S) over the 1st/1st-hold clutch guide with the special tools and a press.
- Install the new splined washer (A) with the marked side (B) up over the ball bearing with the special tools and a press.
- Install the new lock nut (C)
- Place a V-block (A) on a vise (B), and put the secondary shaft (C) on the V-block and vise.
- Attach the special tool onto the 1st clutch guide, and secure the special tool with the vise to hold the secondary shaft. Tighten the lock nut to 178 N.m (18.2 kgf.m, 132 lbf.ft) with the torque wrench (D). NOTE: Use a torque wrench to tighten the lock nut. Do not use an impact wrench. The lock nut has left-hand threads.
- Stake the lock nut into its shaft in depth (A) of 0.7- 1.3 mm (0.03-0.05 in.) using a 3.5 mm punch (B).
Scheme 516
Scheme 517
Scheme 518
Scheme 519
Scheme 520
- Install the thrust needle bearing (A) in the torque converter housing (B) in the direction shown, and install the secondary shaft assembly (C).
- Install the new gasket (A) on the torque converter housing.
- Measure the height (B) of the secondary shaft installation between the surface (C) of the gasket and the top of the ball bearing outer race (D), then note the measurement. Secondary Shaft Cutaway View
- Remove the 65 mm thrust shim (A) from the transmission housing, and measure its thickness.
- Calculate the thickness of the 65 mm thrust shim using the formula. Formula: 65 mm Thrust Shim Thickness = Secondary Shaft Installation Height Standard - Measurement Secondary Shaft Installation Height Standard: 222.54-222.63 mm (8.761-8.765 in.)
- Select the 65 mm thrust shim from the following table. THRUST SHIM, 65 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness OA 90460-RDK-000 0.80 mm (0.031 in.) A 90461 -RDK-010 0.84 mm (0.033 in.) B 90462-RDK-010 0.88 mm (0.035 in.) C 90463-RDK-010 0.92 mm (0.036 in.) D 90464-RDK-010 0.96 mm (0.038 in.) E 90465-RDK-010 1.00 mm (0.039 in.) F 90466-RDK-010 1.04 mm (0.041 in.) G 90467-RDK-010 1.08 mm (0.043 in.) H 90468-RDK-010 1.12 mm (0.044 in.) I 90469-RDK-010 1.16 mm (0.046 in.) J 90470-RDK-010 1.20 mm (0.047 in.) K 90471-RDK-010 1.24 mm (0.049 in.) L 90472-RDK-010 1.28 mm (0.050 in.) M 90473-RDK-010 1.32 mm (0.052 in.) N 90474-RDK-010 1.36 mm (0.054 in.) O 90475-RDK-010 1.40 mm (0.055 in.) P 90476-RDK-010 1.44 mm (0.057 in.) Q 90477-RDK-010 1.48 mm (0.058 in.) R 90478-RDK-010 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) S 90479-RDK-010 1.56 mm (0.061 in.) T 90480-RDK-010 1.60 mm (0.063 in.) U 90481-RDK-000 1.64 mm (0.065 in.) V 90482-RDK-000 1.68 mm (0.066 in.) W 90483-RDK-000 1.72 mm (0.068 in.) X 90484-RDK-000 1.76 mm (0.069 in.) Y 90485-RDK-000 1.80 mm (0.071 in.) Z 90486-RDK-000 1.84 mm (0.072 in.) AA 90487-RDK-000 1.88 mm (0.074 in.) AB 90488-RDK-000 1.92 mm (0.076 in.) AC 90489-RDK-000 1.96 mm (0.077 in.) AD 90490-RDK-000 2.00 mm (0.079 in.) AE 90491-RDK-000 2.04 mm (0.080 in.) AF 90492-RDK-000 2.08 mm (0.082 in.) AG 90493-RDK-000 2.12 mm (0.083 in.) AH 90494-RDK-000 2.16 mm (0.085 in.) AI 90495-RDK-000 2.20 mm (0.087 in.) AJ 90496-RDK-000 2.24 mm (0.088 in.) AK 90497-RDK-000 2.28 mm (0.090 in.) AL 90498-RDK-000 2.32 mm (0.091 in.)
- Install the thrust shim in the transmission housing.
Scheme 521
- Remove the 26.5 mm washer, snap ring, cotter retainer, and cotters from the third shaft.
- Remove the intermediary shaft 4th gear using a press (see «INTERMEDIARY SHAFT 4th GEAR REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ), and disassemble the shaft and gears.
- Inspect the bearings for galling and rough movement.
- Check the shaft bearing surfaces for scoring and excessive wear, and check shaft splines for excessive wear and damage.
- Check the sealing rings for excessive wear and damage.
- Check the 3rd gear axial clearance (see «INTERMEDIARY SHAFT 3rd GEAR CLEARANCE INSPECTION»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__intermediary-shaft-3rd-gear-clearance-inspection) ), and intermediary shaft installation height (see «INTERMEDIARY SHAFT INSTALLATION HEIGHT INSPECTION/ADJUSTMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ).
- Before installing the O-rings, wrap the shaft splines with tape to prevent damage to the O-rings.
- Lubricate all parts with ATF, and reassemble the shaft and gears.
- Install the press-fitted 4th gear with the special tool and a press (see «INTERMEDIARY SHAFT 4th GEAR REMOVAL»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission) ) in the direction shown.
Scheme 522
- Place the 4th gear (A) on press bases (B), and place a shaft protector (C) between the Intermediary shaft (D) and a press to prevent damaging the Intermediary shaft.
- Press the Intermediary shaft out of press-fitted 4th gear, and remove the Intermediary shaft while holding the underside the Intermediary shaft. The Intermediary shaft falls down when pressing the Intermediary shaft out of the press-fitted gear.
- Remove the remaining parts from the Intermediary shaft.
Intermediary Shaft 4th Gear Installation
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 523
- Wrap the shaft splines with tape, and install the new O-rings in the 3rd clutch O-ring grooves, then remove the tape.
- Install the 3rd clutch, 53 mm splined washer, thrust needle bearing, needle bearing, 3rd gear, thrust needle bearing on the Intermediary shaft.
- Install the 4th gear (A) with the special tool and a press.
- Install the 19.8 mm cotters, cotter retainer, and snap ring.
- Install the 26.5 mm washer on the top of the Intermediary shaft.
Intermediary Shaft 3rd Gear Clearance Inspection
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 524
Scheme 525
Scheme 526
Scheme 527
- Install the 3rd clutch (A), 53 mm splined washer (B), thrust needle bearing (C), needle bearing (D), 3rd gear (E), and thrust needle bearing (F) on the Intermediary shaft (G). Do not install the O-rings during inspection.
- Install the 4th gear (H) with the special tool and a press.
- Install the cotters (I), cotter retainer (J), and snap ring (K).
- Set the dial indicator (A) on the 4th gear (B).
- Measure the 4th gear axial clearance in at least three places while moving the 4th gear. Use the average as the actual clearance. Standard: 0.005-0.045 mm (0.0002-0.0018 in.)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the splined washer and measure its thickness.
- Select and install a new splined washer, then recheck the clearance. SPLINED WASHER, 53 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90546-RDK-000 3.995 mm (0.1573 in.) B 90547-RDK-000 4.015 mm (0.1581 in.) C 90548-RDK-000 4.035 mm (0.1589 in.) D 90549-RDK-000 4.055 mm (0.1596 in.) E 90550-RDK-000 4.075 mm (0.1604 in.) F 90551 -RDK-000 4.095 mm (0.1612 in.) G 90552-RDK-000 4.115 mm (0.1620 in.) H 90553-RDK-000 4.135 mm (0.1628 in.) I 90554-RDK-000 4.155 mm (0.1636 in.) J 90555-RDK-000 4.175 mm (0.1644 in.) K 90556-RDK-000 4.195 mm (0.1652 in.) L 90557-RDK-000 4.215 mm (0.1659 in.) M 90558-RDK-000 4.235 mm (0.1667 in.) N 90559-RDK-000 4.255 mm (0.1675 in.)
Scheme 528
Scheme 529
- Install the intermediary shaft (A) in the torque converter housing, and install the 26.5 mm washer (B) on the intermediary shaft.
- Install the new gasket (C) on the torque converter housing.
- Measure the height (D) of the intermediary shaft installation between the surface (E) of the gasket and the surface of the 26.5 mm washer (F). Intermediary Shaft Installation Height Standard: 133.785-133.885 mm (5.2671-5.2711 in.) Intermediary Shaft Cutaway View
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the 26.5 mm washer and measure its thickness.
- Select and install a new washer, then recheck the installation height. WASHER, 26.5 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 90564-RDK-000 1.05 mm (0.041 in.) B 90565-RDK-000 1.13 mm (0.044 in.) C 90566-RDK-000 1.21 mm (0.048 in.) D 90567-RDK-000 1.29 mm (0.051 in.) E 90568-RDK-000 1.37 mm (0.054 in.) F 90569-RDK-000 1.45 mm (0.057 in.) G 90570-RDK-000 1.53 mm (0.060 in.) H 90571-RDK-000 1.61 mm (0.063 in.) 1 90572-RDK-000 1.69 mm (0.067 in.) J 90573-RDK-000 1.77 mm (0.070 in.) K 90574-RDK-000 1.85 mm (0.073 in.) L 90575-RDK-000 1.93 mm (0.076 in.) M 90576-RDK-000 2.01 mm (0.079 in.) N 90577-RDK-000 2.09 mm (0.082 in.)
Clutch Disassembly
Special Tools Required
- Clutch spring compressor attachment 07LAE-PX40100 or 07HAE-PL50101
- Clutch spring compressor bolt assembly 07GAE-PG40200 or 07GAE-PG4020A
Scheme 530
Scheme 531
Scheme 532
Scheme 533
Scheme 534
Scheme 535
Scheme 536
Scheme 537
Scheme 538
Scheme 539
Scheme 540
- Remove the snap ring (A), then remove the clutch end plate, the clutch discs, and the plates with a screwdriver (B).
- Remove the disc spring (A) from the 1st and 3rd clutches. NOTE: The disc springs of the 2nd and 1st-hold clutches are crimped on the clutch piston; the disc springs are undetached from the piston.
- Remove the waved spring (A) from the 4th and 5th clutches.
- Install the special tools on the clutch assembly.
- Be sure the special tool (A) is adjusted to have full contact with the spring retainer (B) on the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th clutches.
- If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer which is unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
- Set the special tool (A) on the spring retainer (B) of the 3rd clutch so the tool works on the clutch return spring (C).
- If either end of the special tool is not set over the clutch return spring and (A), the retainer may be damaged.
- Compress the spring until the snap ring can be removed.
- Remove the snap ring (A). Then remove the special tool (B), spring retainer (C), and the return spring.
- Wrap the shop rag around the clutch drum (A), and apply air pressure to the fluid passage to remove the piston (B). Place a fingertip on the other end while applying air pressure.
Scheme 541
- Inspect the clutch piston and clutch piston check valve. If the clutch check valve is loose or stuck damaged, replace the clutch piston.
- Check the spring retainer for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clutch discs, clutch plates, and clutch end plate for wear, damage, and discoloration. If the clutch discs are worn or damaged, replace the discs as a set. If the clutch plates are worn, damaged, or discolored, replace the plates as a set. If the clutch end plate is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch-end-plate. If the 1st-hold clutch plate B is worn, damaged, or discoloration, inspect the 1st-hold clutch plate B-to-top-disc clearance, then replace plate B.
Scheme 542
- Inspect the clutch piston and clutch piston check valve. If the clutch check valve is loose or stuck damaged, replace the clutch piston.
- Check the spring retainer for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clutch discs, clutch plates, and clutch end plate for wear, damage, and discoloration. If the clutch discs are worn or damaged, replace the discs as a set. If the clutch plates are worn, damaged, or discolored, replace the plates as a set. If the clutch end plate is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch end-plate.
Scheme 543
- Inspect the clutch piston and clutch piston check valve. If the clutch check valve is loose or stuck damaged, replace the clutch piston.
- Check the spring retainer for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clutch discs, clutch plates, and clutch end plate for wear, damage, and discoloration. If the clutch discs are worn or damaged, replace the discs as a set. If the clutch plates are worn, damaged, or discolored, replace the plates as a set. If the clutch end plate is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch end-plate.
Scheme 544
- Inspect the clutch piston and clutch piston check valve. If the clutch check valve is loose or stuck damaged, replace the clutch piston.
- Check the spring retainer for wear and damage.
- Inspect the clutch discs, clutch plates, and clutch end plate for wear, damage, and discoloration. If the clutch discs are worn or damaged, replace the discs as a set. If the clutch plates are worn, damaged, or discolored, replace the plates as a set. If the clutch end plate is worn, damaged, or discolored, inspect the clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance, then replace the clutch end-plate.
Clutch Reassembly
Special Tools Required
- Clutch spring compressor attachment 07LAE-PX40100 or 07HAE-PL50101
- Clutch spring compressor bolt assembly 07GAE-PG40200 or 07GAE-PG4020A
- Clutch compressor attachment 07ZAE-PRP0100
Note these items during reassembly
- Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent or carburetor cleaner, and dry them with compressed air.
- Blow all passages.
- Apply ATF to all parts before assembly.
Scheme 545
Scheme 546
Scheme 547
Scheme 548
Scheme 549
Scheme 550
Scheme 551
Scheme 552
Scheme 553
Scheme 554
Scheme 555
Scheme 556
Scheme 557
Scheme 558
Scheme 559
Scheme 560
Scheme 561
Scheme 562
- Soak the clutch discs thoroughly in ATF for a minimum of 30 minutes.
- Install the new O-rings (A) on the clutch piston (B).
- Install the piston (A) in the clutch drum (B). Apply pressure and rotate to ensure proper seating. Lubricate the piston O-ring with ATF before installing. Do not pinch the O-ring by installing the piston with too much force.
- Check the 1st-hold clutch end-plate-to-top-disc clearance; starting with a clutch plate, alternately install the clutch plate and discs in the 1st-hold clutch drum, then install the 1st-hold clutch plate B.
- Measure the 1st-hold clutch clearance between the 1st-hold clutch plate B and the top disc (A) with a feeler gauge (C) while pressing the 1st-hold clutch plate B down. Take measurements in at least three places, and use the average as the actual clearance. 1st-hold Clutch End-Plate (B) to-Top-disc Clearance Service Limit: 0.5-0.9 mm (0.020-0.035 in.)
- If the clearance is out of standard, replace the 1st-hold clutch plates and discs as a set, and recheck.
- Install the return spring (A) and spring retainer (B), and position the snap ring (C) on the retainer.
- Install the special tool on the clutch assembly.
- Be sure the special tool (A) is adjusted to have full contact with the spring retainer (B) on the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th clutches.
- If either end of the special tool is set over an area of the spring retainer which is unsupported by the return spring, the retainer may be damaged.
- Set the special tool (A) on the spring retainer (B) of the 3rd clutch so the tool works on the clutch return spring (C).
- If either end of the special tool is not set over the clutch return spring end (A), the retainer may be damaged.
- Compress the return spring.
- Install the snap ring (A).
- Remove the special tools.
- Install the disc spring in the 1st and 3rd clutches in the direction shown. NOTE: The disc springs of the 2nd and 1st-hold clutches are crimped on the clutch piston; the disc springs are detached from the piston.
- Install the waved spring in the 4th and 5th clutches.
- Make sure the inside of the clutch drum is free of dirt and other foreign particles.
- Starting with a clutch plate, alternately install the clutch plates and discs. Install the clutch end plate (A) with the flat side toward the disc (B).
- Install the snap ring (A) with a screwdriver (B).
- Set a dial indicator (A) on the clutch end plate (B). A
- Zero the indicator with the clutch end plate lifted up to the snap ring (C).
- Release the clutch end plate to lower the clutch end plate, then put the special tool on the end plate (A).
- Press the special tool down with 39 N (4 kgf, 9 lbf) using a force gauge, and read the dial indicator (B). The dial indicator reads the clearance (C) between the clutch end plate and top disc (D). Take measurements in at least three places, and use average as the actual clearance. Clutch End-Plate-to-Top-Disc Clearance Service Limit 1st clutch: 1.1-1.3 mm (0.043-0.051 in.) 2nd clutch: 1.0-1.2 mm (0.039-0.047 in.) 3rd clutch: 0.7-0.9 mm (0.028-0.035 in.) 4th clutch: 0.55-0.75 mm (0.022-0.030 in.) 5th clutch: 0.55-0.75 mm (0.022-0.030 in.)
- If the clearance is out of service limit, select a new clutch end plate from the tables. Install the new clutch end plate, then recheck the clearance. NOTE: If the thickest clutch end plate is installed, but the clearance is still over the service limit, replace the clutch discs and plates.
1st CLUTCH END PLATES
| Plate No. | Part Number | Thickness |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 22551-RDK-003 | 3.1 mm (0.122 in.) |
| 2 | 22552-RDK-003 | 3.2 mm (0.126 in.) |
| 3 | 22553-RDK-003 | 3.3 mm (0.130 in.) |
| 4 | 22554-RDK-003 | 3.4 mm (0.134 in.) |
| 5 | 22555-RDK-003 | 3.5 mm (0.138 in.) |
| 6 | 22556-RDK-003 | 3.6 mm (0.142 in.) |
| 7 | 22557-RDK-003 | 3.7 mm (0.146 in.) |
| 8 | 22558-RDK-003 | 3.8 mm (0.150 in.) |
| 9 | 22559-RDK-003 | 3.9 mm (0.154 in.) |
THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS
2nd CLUTCH END PLATES
| Plate No. | Part Number | Thickness |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 22561 -RDK-003 | 2.1 mm (0.083 in.) |
| 2 | 22562-RDK-003 | 2.2 mm (0.087 in.) |
| 3 | 22563-RDK-003 | 2.3 mm (0.091 in.) |
| 4 | 22564-RDK-003 | 2.4 mm (0.094 in.) |
| 5 | 22565-RDK-003 | 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) |
| 6 | 22566-RDK-003 | 2.6 mm (0.102 in.) |
| 7 | 22567-RDK-003 | 2.7 mm (0.106 in.) |
| 8 | 22568-RDK-003 | 2.8 mm (0.110 in.) |
| 9 | 22569-RDK-003 | 2.9 mm (0.114 in.) |
THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS
3rd CLUTCH END PLATES
| Plate No. | Part Number | Thickness |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 22591-RDK-003 | 2.1 mm (0.083 in.) |
| 2 | 22592-RDK-003 | 2.2 mm (0.087 in.) |
| 3 | 22593-RDK-003 | 2.3 mm (0.091 in.) |
| 4 | 22594-RDK-003 | 2.4 mm (0.094 in.) |
| 5 | 22595-RDK-003 | 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) |
| 6 | 22596-RDK-003 | 2.6 mm (0.102 in.) |
| 7 | 22597-RDK-003 | 2.7 mm (0.106 in.) |
| 8 | 22598-RDK-003 | 2.8 mm (0.110 in.) |
| 9 | 22599-RDK-003 | 2.9 mm (0.114 in.) |
THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS
4th and 5th CLUTCH END PLATES
| Plate No. | Part Number | Thickness |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 22571-RDK-013 | 2.1 mm (0.083 in.) |
| 2 | 22572-RDK-013 | 2.2 mm (0.087 in.) |
| 3 | 22573-RDK-013 | 2.3 mm (0.091 in.) |
| 4 | 22574-RDK-013 | 2.4 mm (0.094 in.) |
| 5 | 22575-RDK-013 | 2.5 mm (0.098 in.) |
| 6 | 22576-RDK-013 | 2.6 mm (0.102 in.) |
| 7 | 22577-RDK-013 | 2.7 mm (0.106 in.) |
| 8 | 22578-RDK-013 | 2.8 mm (0.110 in.) |
| 9 | 22579-RDK-013 | 2.9 mm (0.114 in.) |
THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS
Exploded View
Bolt Tightening Torque
6 x 1.0 mm: 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft)
8 x 1.25 mm: 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
Scheme 563
Special Tool Required
Mainshaft holder 07GAB-PF50101 or 07PAB-0010000
Scheme 564
Scheme 565
Scheme 566
Scheme 567
Scheme 568
Scheme 569
Scheme 570
Scheme 571
Scheme 572
Scheme 573
Scheme 574
Scheme 575
Scheme 576
Scheme 577
Scheme 578
Scheme 579
Scheme 580
Scheme 581
Scheme 582
Scheme 583
Scheme 584
Scheme 585
Scheme 586
Scheme 587
Scheme 588
Scheme 589
Scheme 590
Scheme 591
Scheme 592
Scheme 593
Scheme 594
Scheme 595
Scheme 596
- Make sure that the ATF magnet is cleaned and installed in the torque converter housing. Clean and install the ATF magnet, if necessary.
- Install the main separator plate and two dowel pins on the torque converter housing. Then install the ATF pump drive gear (A), driven gear (B), and ATF pump driven gear shaft (C). Install the ATF pump driven gear with its grooved and chamfered side facing down.
- Install the torque converter check valve spring and valve in the torque converter housing.
- Install the main valve body (seven 6 mm bolt and three 8 mm bolts). Make sure the ATF pump drive gear (A) rotates smoothly in the normal operating direction, and the ATF pump driven gear shaft (C) moves smoothly in the axial and normal operating direction.
- If the ATF pump drive gear and ATF pump driven gear shaft do not move smoothly, loosen the main valve body bolts. Realign the ATF pump driven gear shaft, and retighten the bolts to the specified torques, then recheck. Failure to align the ATF pump driven gear shaft correctly will result in a seized ATF pump drive gear or ATF pump driven gear shaft.
- Install the lubrication check valve, cooler check valve and cooler check valve spring in the main valve body. Install the lubrication check valve in the direction shown in the in the exploded view.
- Install the secondary separator plate and two dowel pins on the main valve body, and install the secondary valve body (one bolt).
- Install the three check balls and choke in the secondary valve body.
- Install the accumulator separator plate and two dowel pins on the secondary valve body.
- Position the detent arm on the accumulator separator plate, and install the detent arm shaft into the detent arm through the separator plates to the main valve body.
- Install the 8 x 62 mm ATF feed pips in the main valve body, and install the accumulator body (11 bolts).
- Install the regulator separator plate and two dowel pins on the main valve body.
- Install the stator shaft with the new O-ring, and install the regulator valve body (eight bolts).
- Install the stator shaft stop in the main valve body.
- Install the ATF strainer with the new O-ring (two bolts).
- Install the ATF passage pipe (one bolt) in the torque converter housing.
- Install the intermediary shaft (A) into the main valve body, and install the 26.5 mm washer (B) on the top of the intermediary shaft.
- Install the transfer output shaft (C) in the torque converter housing, and install the thrust shim (D) on the top of the transfer output shaft.
- Install the differential assembly (E) in the torque converter housing.
- Install the baffle plate (F), and make sure if the differential is clear of the baffle plate.
- Install the selector control shaft and park lever link (G).
- Assemble the mainshaft, countershaft, and secondary shaft.
- Install the needle bearing (A) on the secondary shaft roller bearing in the torque converter housing.
- Turn the shift fork shaft (B) so the large chamfered hole is facing the fork bolt hole of the shift fork.
- Engage the shift fork (C) with the reveres selector on the countershaft, and join the mainshaft (D), countershaft (E), and secondary shaft (F), then install them in the torque converter housing and shift fork on the shift fork shaft.
- Secure the shift fork (A) to the shift fork shaft with the lock bolt and the new lock washer (B), then bend the lock tab of the lock washer against the bolt head.
- Install the park pawl shaft (A), pawl spring (B), park pawl (C), and park pawl stop (D).
- Align the control lever pin with the manual valve guide.
- Hook the detent arm spring to the detent arm.
- Install the 8 x 85 mm ATF feed pipe (A), 8 x 151.5 mm pipes (B), and 8 x 40 mm pipe (C) in the accumulator body.
- Install the 8 x 57.6 mm ATF feed pipe (A) and 10 x 123 mm pipe (B) in the torque converter housing.
- Install the two dowel pins (A) and the new gasket (B) on the torque converter housing (C).
- Place the transmission housing (D) on the torque converter housing.
- Wrap a screwdriver tip with tape to prevent damage to the reverse idler gear teeth. Engage the reverse idler gear with reverse gears by rotating the idler gear using the screwdriver.
- While expanding the snap ring of the countershaft bearing using snap ring pliers, install the transmission housing onto the bearing part-way. Then release the snap ring pliers, and push down on the housing until it bottoms and the snap ring snaps into place in the transmission housing snap ring groove.
- Install the transmission housing mounting bolts (22 bolts) along with the transmission hanger (A) and transmission ground terminal bracket (B), and tighten the bolts in two or more steps in a crisscross pattern to 44 N.m (4.5 kgf.m, 33 lbf.ft).
- Install and tighten the two mounting bolts (C) to 39 N.m (4.0 kgf.m, 29 lbf.ft). Keep the mounting bolts free of grease or oil.
- Install the special tool onto the mainshaft.
- Install the new lock washer (A) with the marked side (B) up over the mainshaft (C), and apply the surfaces of the lock washer and old lock nut (D) with ATF.
- Install the old lock nut, and tighten it to seat the lock washer to 178 N.m (18.2 kgf.m, 132 lbf.ft), then remove the old lock nut.
- Install the new lock nut and tighten it to 176 N.m (18.2 kgf.m, 132 lbf.ft), then stake the lock nut into its shaft in depth (A) of 0.7 -1.3 mm (0.03-0.05 in.) using a 3.5 mm punch (B).
- Install the end cover (A), dowel pin (B), and new CD-ring (C).
- Install the snap ring cap (D) with the new O-ring (E).
- Apply thread lock sealant to the threads of the sealing plug (F), and install the sealing plug and the new sealing washer (G).
- Install the new O-ring (E) on the solenoid harness connector (F).
- Route the solenoid harness through the transmission housing, and install the solenoid harness connector.
- Connect the GRN harness connector to the shift solenoid valve C.
- Connect the YEL harness connector to the torque converter clutch solenoid valve (D).
- Connect the RED harness connector to the shift solenoid valve A.
- Connect the ORN harness connector to the shift solenoid valve B.
- Secure the solenoid harness connector with the bolt on the transmission housing.
- Install the solenoid valve cover (A) with the two dowel pins (B) and the new gasket (C), and secure it with the seven bolts.
- Place the new gasket (A) on the solenoid valve cover, then install the 8 x 105.8 mm ATF feed pips (B) and 8 x 58.3 mm pipes (C) with their filter side into the transmission housing.
- Install the new O-rings (D) over the ATF feed pipes, and install the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B (E).
- Install the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (A) with the filter side into its mounting hole (B).
- Check the height (A) if the 8 x 53 mm ATF joint pipe (B) between the top (C) of the pipe and solenoid valve body mounting surface (D). The height is about 7 mm (0.3 in.) If the height is over 7 mm (0.3 in.), install the pipe securely until it stops the accumulator body.
- Install the new gasket (A) on the transmission housing. Install the 8 x 34.5 mm ATF pipe (B) with the filter side into the transmission housing, and install the 8 x 25.5 mm ATF pipe (D).
- Install new O-rings (E) over the ATF joint pipes.
- Install the A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve C.
- Set the selector control shaft to the N position by turning the selector control shaft with a 6.0 mm wrench.
- Set the transmission range switch (A) to the N position. The transmission range switch clicks in the N position, and the selector control shaft hole (B) aligns with the N positioning line (C).
- Install the transmission range switch gently over the selector control shaft (D), and install the bolts loosely.
- Install the new lock washer (A) over the selector control shaft (B) with aligning the projection (C) of the lock washer with the N positioning line (D) on the transmission range switch (E), and install the lock nut (F).
- Push the lock nut against the transmission housing to seat the range switch into the selector control shaft, and tighten the lock nut to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft) while holding the selector control shaft with a 6.0 mm wrench, then bend the lock tabs against the lock nut.
- Tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft) securing the transmission range switch.
- Install the selector control lever (A), spring washer (B), lock washer (C), and lock nut (D) on the control shaft (E).
- If the control lever cover (F) was removed or replaced, install the cover on the control lever.
- Install the input shaft (mainshaft) speed sensor (A) and output shaft (countershaft) speed sensor (B) with the new O-rings (C).
- Install the 4th clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A) with the new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part.
- Install the 3rd clutch transmission fluid pressure switch (A) with the new sealing washer (B). Tighten the switch on the metal part, not the plastic part.
- Install the ATF cooler lines (C) with the new sealing washers (D) and line bolts (E).
- Install the connector bracket (F), and secure the ATF lines with the 6.0 mm bolts (G) on the transmission housing. Tighten the bolts to 12 N.m (1.2 kgf.m, 8.7 lbf.ft).
- Install the ATF temperature sensor (H) with the new O-ring (I), then install the connector on the connector bracket.
- Install the ATF dipstick guide pipe (A) with the new O-ring (B).
- Install the ATF dipstick (C) in its guide pipe.
Scheme 597
Scheme 598
- Remove the final driven gear and transfer drive gear from the differential carrier.
- Install both axles, and place the differential assembly on V-blocks (A).
- Check the backlash of the pinion gears (B) with a dial indicator (C). Standard: 0.175-0.275 mm (0.007-0.011 in.)
- If the backlash is out of standard, replace the differential carrier.
- Install the final driven gear and transfer drive gear on the differential carrier (see «DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR, AND TRANSFER DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT»(/acura/mdx/i-2000-2006/remont/automatic-trans/#automatic-transmission__differential-carrier-final-driven-gear-and) ).
Differential Carrier, Final Driven Gear, and Transfer Drive Gear Replacement
Note. Inspect and adjust the bearing preload whenever the carrier is replaced.
Scheme 599
- Remove the final driven gear (A) and transfer drive gear (B) from the differential carrier (C). NOTE: The final driven gear bolts have left-hand threads.
- Install the final driven gear with the chamfered side on the inner bore facing the differential carrier.
- Install the bolts through the differential carrier to the transfer drive gear.
- Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern.
Carrier Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
Attachment, 45 x 55 mm 07MAD-PR90100
Note. The bearing and outer race should be replaced as a set. Inspect and adjust the bearing preload whenever the bearing is replaced. Check the bearing for wear and rough rotation. If the bearing is OK, removal is not necessary.
Scheme 600
Scheme 601
- Remove the carrier bearing (A) with a commercially available bearing puller (B), bearing separator (C), and stepped adapter (D).
- Install the new carrier bearings with the special tool and a press. NOTE: Press the bearing on until it bottoms. Use the small end of the special tool to install the bearings. Press the bearing on securely so there is no clearance between the bearing and the differential carrier.
Oil Seal Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Oil seal driver attachment 07GAD-PG40100 or 07GAD-PG40101
- Oil seal driver attachment 07JAD-PH80101
Scheme 602
Scheme 603
Scheme 604
Scheme 605
- Remove the oil seal from the transmission housing.
- Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
- Install the new oil seal flush to the transmission housing with the special tools.
- Install the new oil seal to the torque converter housing with the special tools.
Carrier Bearing Outer Race Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 83 mm 07HAD-SG00100
- Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40101
Note. Replace the bearing with a new one whenever the outer race is replaced. Do not use shim(s) on the torque converter housing side. Adjust preload after replacing the bearing and outer race. Coat all parts with ATF during installation.
Scheme 606
Scheme 607
Scheme 608
Scheme 609
Scheme 610
- Remove the bearing outer race (A), spacer (B), and 85 mm thrust shim (C) from the transmission housing (D) by heating the housing to about 212 °F (100 °C) with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the housing more than 212 °F (100 °C).
- Remove the bearing outer race from the torque converter housing.
- Install the 85 mm thrust shim (A), spacer (B), and outer race (C) in the transmission housing (D).
- With the special tools, drive the outer race securely in the housing so there is no clearance between the outer race, spacer, shim, and housing.
- Install the spacer (A) and outer race (B) in the torque converter housing (C).
- Drive the bearing outer race securely in the housing with the special tools.
Carrier Bearing Preload Inspection
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 83 mm 07HAD-SG00100
- Preload inspection tool 070AJ-0020101
Note. If the transmission housing, torque converter housing, differential carrier, tapered roller bearing, bearing outer race, or thrust shim were replaced, the bearing preload must be adjusted.
Scheme 611
Scheme 612
Scheme 613
Scheme 614
Scheme 615
- Remove the bearing outer race (A), spacer (B), and 85 mm thrust shim (C) from the transmission housing (D) by heating the housing to about 212 °F (100 CC) with a heat gun (E). Do not heat the housing more than 212 °F (100 °C). NOTE: Let the transmission housing cool to room temperature before adjusting the bearing preload.
- Replace the tapered roller bearing when the outer race is to be replaced.
- Do not use a shim on the torque converter housing side.
- Install the 85 mm thrust shim (A) in the transmission housing (B). If you replace the 85 mm thrust shim with new one, use the same thickness shim as the old one.
- Install the spacer (C), and bearing outer race (D) in the transmission housing.
- Drive the outer race securely in the housing with the special tools so there is no clearance between the outer race, spacer, shim, and housing.
- Install the differential assembly (A) in the torque converter housing (B), and install the gasket (C) and the two dowel pins (D) on the housing.
- Install the transmission housing (E), and install the mounting bolts (24 bolts) with the transmission hangers (F) and ground terminal bracket (G), then tighten the bolts.
- Rotate the differential assembly in both directions to seat the bearings.
- Measure the starting torque of the differential assembly with the special tool, a torque wrench (A), and a socket (B). Measure the starting torque at normal room temperature in both directions. Standard New bearings: 3.9-5.1 N.m (40-52 kgf.cm, 35-45 lbf.in) Reused bearings: 3.6-4.8 N.m (37-49 kgf.cm, 32-43 lbf.in)
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the thrust shim and measure its thickness.
- Select a new thrust shim. To increase the starting torque, increase thickness of the thrust shim. To decrease the starting torque, decrease the thickness of the thrust shim. Changing the shim to next size will increase or decrease starting torque about 0.5-0.6 N.m (5-6 kgf.cm, 5-5 lbf.in.). THRUST SHIM, 85 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 41440-RDK-000 1.350 mm (0.0531 in.) B 41441-RDK-000 1.375 mm (0.0541 in.) C 41442-RDK-000 1.400 mm (0.0551 in.) D 41443-RDK-000 1.425 mm (0.0561 in.) E 41444-RDK-000 1.450 mm (0.0571 in.) F 41445-RDK-000 1.475 mm (0.0581 in.) G 41446-RDK-000 1.500 mm (0.0591 in.) H 41447-RDK-000 1.525 mm (0.0600 in.) I 41448-RDK-000 1.550 mm (0.0610 in.) J 41449-RDK-000 1.575 mm (0.0620 in.) K 41450-RDK-000 1.600 mm (0.0630 in.) L 41451-RDK-000 1.625 mm (0.0640 in.) M 41452-RDK-000 1.650 mm (0.0650 in.) N 41453-RDK-000 1.675 mm (0.0659 in.) O 41454-RDK-000 1.700 mm (0.0669 in.) P 41455-RDK-000 1.725 mm (0.0679 in.) Q 41456-RDK-000 1.750 mm (0.0689 in.) R 41457-RDK-000 1.775 mm (0.0699 in.) S 41458-RDK-000 1.800 mm (0.0709 in.) T 41459-RDK-000 1.825 mm (0.0719 in.) U 41460-RDK-000 1.850 mm (0.0728 in.) V 41461-RDK-000 1.875 mm (0.0738 in.) W 41462-RDK-000 1.900 mm (0.0748 in.) X 41463-RDK-000 1.925 mm (0.0758 in.) Y 41464-RDK-000 1.950 mm (0.0768 in.) Z 41465-RDK-000 1.975 mm (0.0778 in.) AA 41466-RDK-000 2.000 mm (0.0787 in.) AB 41467-RDK-000 2.025 mm (0.0797 in.) AC 41468-RDK-000 2.050 mm (0.0807 in.) AD 41469-RDK-000 2.075 mm (0.0817 in.) AE 41470-RDK-000 2.100 mm (0.0827 in.) AF 41471-RDK-000 2.125 mm (0.0837 in.) AG 41472-RDK-000 2.150 mm (0.0846 in.) AH 41473-RDK-000 2.175 mm (0.0856 in.) AI 41474-RDK-000 2.200 mm (0.0866 in.) AJ 41475-RDK-000 2.225 mm (0.0876 in.) AK 41476-RDK-000 2.250 mm (0.0886 in.) AL 41477-RDK-000 2.275 mm (0.0896 in.) AM 41478-RDK-000 2.300 mm (0.0906 in.) AN 41479-RDK-000 2.325 mm (0.0915 in.) AO 41480-RDK-000 2.350 mm (0.0925 in.)
- Install the new thrust shim, then recheck the starting torque.
Scheme 616
Transfer Output Shaft Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 617
Scheme 618
- Remove the transfer output shaft bearing (A) with a commercially available puller (B), bearing separator (C), and shaft protector (D). Place a shaft protector between transfer output shaft and a puller to prevent damaging the shaft.
- Install the new bearing (A) on the transfer output shaft (B) with the special tool and a press.
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 65 mm 07JAD-SH30100
Scheme 619
Scheme 620
- Remove the oil seal from the torque converter housing.
- Install the new oil seal flush to the torque converter housing with the special tools.
Transmission Housing Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Scheme 621
Scheme 622
Scheme 623
- Remove the transfer output shaft bearing (A) from the transmission housing (B) by heating the housing to about 212 °F (100 °C) with a heat gun (C). Do not heat the housing more than 212 °F (100 °C).
- Install the new bearing in the housing in the direction shown.
- Drive the new bearing until it bottoms in the housing with the special tools.
Transfer Output Shaft Installation Height Inspection/Adjustment
Note. If the transfer output shaft, transfer output shaft bearing, transfer output shaft transmission housing bearing, transmission housing, or torque converter housing were replaced, adjust the transfer output shaft installation height with the 28.5 mm thrust shim.
Scheme 624
Scheme 625
- Install the transfer output shaft (A) in the torque converter housing, and install the 28.5 mm thrust shim (B) on the top of the shaft. If you replace the 28.5 mm thrust shim with new one, use the same thickness shim as the old one.
- Install the new gasket (C) on the torque converter housing.
- Measure the height (D) of the transfer output shaft installation between the surface (E) of the gasket and the top (F) of the 28.5 mm thrust shim in at least three places. Use the average as the actual height. Standard: 42.81-42.85 mm (1.685-1.687 in.) Transfer Output Shaft Cutaway View
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the 28.5 mm thrust shim and measure its thickness.
- Select and install a new thrust shim, then recheck the installation height. THRUST SHIM, 28.5 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS No. Part Number Thickness A 29031-RDK-000 1.82 mm (0.0717 in.) B 29032-RDK-000 1.84 mm (0.0724 in.) C 29033-RDK-000 1.86 mm (0.0732 in.) D 29034-RDK-000 1.88 mm (0.0740 in.) E 29035-RDK-000 1.90 mm (0.0748 in.) F 29036-RDK-000 1.92 mm (0.0756 in.) G 29037-RDK-000 1.94 mm (0.0764 in.) H 29038-RDK-000 1.96 mm (0.0772 in.) I 29039-RDK-000 1.98 mm (0.0780 in.) J 29040-RDK-000 2.00 mm (0.0787 in.) K 29041-RDK-000 2.02 mm (0.0795 in.) L 29042-RDK-000 2.04 mm (0.0803 in.) M 29043-RDK-000 2.06 mm (0.0811 in.) N 29044-RDK-000 2.08 mm (0.0819 in.) O 29045-RDK-000 2.10 mm (0.0827 in.) P 29046-RDK-000 2.12 mm (0.0835 in.) Q 29047-RDK-000 2.14 mm (0.0843 in.) R 29048-RDK-000 2.16 mm (0.0850 in.) S 29049-RDK-000 2.18 mm (0.0858 in.) T 29050-RDK-000 2.20 mm (0.0866 in.) U 29051-RDK-000 2.22 mm (0.0874 in.) V 29052-RDK-000 2.24 mm (0.0882 in.) W 29053-RDK-000 2.26 mm (0.0890 in.) X 29054-RDK-000 2.28 mm (0.0898 in.) Y 29055-RDK-000 2.30 mm (0.0906 in.) Z 29056-RDK-000 2.32 mm (0.0913 in.) AA 29057-RDK-000 2.34 mm (0.0921 in.)
Inspection
Note. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and a vise.
Transfer Gear Backlash Measurement
Scheme 626
Scheme 627
- Set a dial indicator (A) on the transfer companion flange (B); position dial indicator tip (C) on the direct extension of the bolt hole canter (D).
- Measure the transfer gear backlash. Standard: 0.06-0.17 mm (0.002-0.007 in.) Total Starting Torque Measurement
- Rotate the transfer companion flange several times to seat the tapered roller bearings.
- Measure the staring torque at the companion flange (A) using a torque wrench (B) and a socket (C). Standard: 3.20-4.16 N.m (32.6-42.4 kgf.cm, 28.3-36.8 lbf.in.)
- If the measurements are out of standard, disassemble the transfer assembly and repair it.
Scheme 628
Special Tools Required
Companion flange holder 07XAB-0020100
Scheme 629
Scheme 630
Scheme 631
Scheme 632
Scheme 633
Scheme 634
- Remove the transfer cover (A) from the transfer housing (B).
- Remove the transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (C), 25 mm thrust shim (D), and tapered roller bearing (E).
- Remove the O-ring (G) from the cover.
- Drain the transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil) from the transfer housing.
- Cut the lock tab on the lock nut using a chisel.
- Secure the transfer housing in a bench vise with soft jaws. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.
- Install the special tool on the companion flange, then loosen the lock nut.
- Remove the special tool.
- Remove the lock nut (A), conical spring washer (B), back up ring (C), O-ring (D), and companion flange (E) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (F).
- Remove the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (A) from the transfer housing (B), then remove the thrust washers (C) and transfer spacer (D) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Remove the oil seal (A) and tapered roller bearing (B) from the transfer housing.
Transfer Hypoid Drive Gear Bearing Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 42 x 47 mm 07746-0010300
- Attachment, 40 x 50 mm 07LAD-PW50601
Scheme 635
Scheme 636
- Remove the tapered roller bearing (A) from the transfer hypoid drive gear (B) with the special tools, bearing separator (C) and a press.
- Install the new bearing on the transfer hypoid drive gear with the special tools and a press.
Transfer Output Shaft (Hypoid Gear) Bearing Removal/Installation
Special Tools Required
Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
Scheme 637
Scheme 638
- Remove the tapered roller bearing (A) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (B) with a bearing separator (C) and a press. Place a shaft protector (D) between the transfer output shaft and a press to prevent damaging the shaft.
- Install the 40 mm thrust shim (A) over the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear).
- Install the tapered roller bearing over the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) with the special tools and a press.
Transfer Housing Tapered Roller Bearing Outer Race Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
- Oil seal driver attachment 07JAD-PH80101
- Tapered bearing race installer A 07MAF-SP0011A
- Installer shaft 07MAF-SP0013A
Note. Replace the bearing with a new one whenever the outer race is replaced.
Scheme 639
Scheme 640
Scheme 641
Scheme 642
Scheme 643
- Remove the 52 mm bearing outer race (A) and 75 mm outer race (B) from the transfer housing (C). NOTE: Some bearing outer races (52 mm and 75 mm) are press-fitted in the housing, and remove the races with heating the housing.
- Remove the 58 mm bearing outer race (A) from the transfer housing (B) by heating the housing to about 212 °F (100 °C) with a heat gun (C). Remove the 52 mm and 75 mm outer races by heating, if they are press-fitted. Do not heat the housing more than 212 °F (100 °C).
- Install the 52 mm bearing outer race (A) until it bottoms in the transfer housing with the special tools.
- Install the 75 mm bearing outer race (A) and 58 mm outer race (B) in the transfer housing (C), set the special tool attachments over the races, and install the installer shaft through the attachments.
- Tighten the installer shaft nut (D) to install the races (A) (B) into the transfer housing (C) securely.
Transfer Cover Tapered Roller Bearing Outer Race Removal/Installation
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 78 x 80 mm 07NAD-PX40100
Note. Replace the bearing with a new one whenever the outer race is replaced.
Scheme 644
Scheme 645
Scheme 646
- Remove the bearing outer race (A) and 80 mm thrust shim (B) from the transfer cover (C). If the bearing outer race is press-fitted, remove the outer race by heating the cover to about 212 °F (100°C) with a heat gun (D). Do not heat the cover more than 212 °F (100 °C).
- Install the 80 mm trust shim (A) and bearing outer race (B) in the transfer cover (C).
- Drive the outer race securely in the cover with the special tools so there is no clearance between the outer race, thrust shim, and cover.
Transfer Cover Oil Seal Replacement
Special Tools Required
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Attachment, 65 mm 07JAD-SH30100
Scheme 647
Scheme 648
- Remove the oil seal from the transfer cover.
- Install the new oil seal (A) in the transfer cover (B) in height (C) of 0-1 mm (0-0.04 in.) above the cover surface with the special tools.
Reassembly
Special Tools Required
- Driver, 40 mm I.D. 07746-0030100
- Attachment, 35 mm I.D. 07746-0030400
- Driver 07749-0010000
- Seal driver attachment 07GAD-PG40100 or 07GAD-PG40101
- Companion flange holder 07XAB-0020100
- Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Note. While reassembling the transfer assembly: Check and adjust the transfer gear tooth contact. Measure and adjust the transfer gear backlash. Check and adjust the tapered roller bearing starting torque. Coat all parts with ATF during reassembly. Replace the tapered roller bearing and the bearing outer race as a set if either part is replaced. Replace the transfer hypoid drive gear and the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) as a set if either part is replaced.
Scheme 649
Scheme 650
Scheme 651
Scheme 652
Scheme 653
Scheme 654
Scheme 655
Scheme 656
Scheme 657
Scheme 658
Scheme 659
Scheme 660
Scheme 661
Scheme 662
Scheme 663
Scheme 664
Scheme 665
Scheme 666
Scheme 667
Scheme 668
Scheme 669
Scheme 670
Scheme 671
- Select the 40 mm thrust shim if the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) is replaced. Calculate the thickness of the 40 mm thrust shim using the formula below, and select the shim from the following table. FORMULA: A/100 - B/100 + C = X A: Number on the existing transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) B: Number on the replacement transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) C: Thickness of the existing 40 mm thrust shim X: Thickness needed for the replacement 40 mm thrust shim NOTE: The number on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) is shown in 1/100 mm. THRUST SHIM, 40 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS Shim No. Part Number Thickness A 29361-RDK-000 0.72 mm (0.028 in.) B 29362-RDK-000 0.75 mm (0.030 in.) C 29363-RDK-000 0.78 mm (0.031 in.) D 29364-RDK-000 0.81 mm (0.032 in.) E 29365-RDK-000 0.84 mm (0.033 in.) F 29366-RDK-000 0.87 mm (0.034 in.) G 29367-RDK-000 0.90 mm (0.035 in.) H 29368-RDK-000 0.93 mm (0.037 in.) I 29369-RDK-000 0.96 mm (0.038 in.) J 29370-RDK-000 0.99 mm (0.039 in.) K 29371-RDK-000 1.02 mm (0.040 in.) L 29372-RDK-000 1.05 mm (0.041 in.) M 29373-RDK-000 1.08 mm (0.043 in.) N 29374-RDK-000 1.11 mm (0.044 in.) O 29375-RDK-000 1.14 mm (0.045 in.)
- Select the 40 mm thrust shim if the tapered roller bearing on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) is replaced. Measure the thickness of the replacement bearing and the existing bearing, and calculate the difference of the bearing thickness. Adjust the thickness of the existing 40 mm thrust shim by the amount of difference in bearing thickness, and select the replacement 40 mm thrust shim.
- Install the 40 mm thrust shim (A) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (B), then install the tapered roller bearing (C) with the special tool and a press.
- Place the tapered roller bearing on the bearing outer race of the companion flange side of the transfer housing.
- Install the new oil seal on the transfer housing with the special tools and a press.
- Install the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (A) in the transfer housing (B). Do not install the thrust washers and transfer spacer on the transfer output shaft.
- Install the companion flange (A), conical spring washer (B) in the direction shown, and lock nut (C) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (D). Do not install the O-ring and back up ring on the transfer output shaft.
- Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with soft jaws, then install the special tool on the companion flange. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.
- Tighten the lock nut while measuring the starting torque of the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) so the starting torque is within 1.15-1.71 N.m (11.7-17.4 kgf.cm, 10.2-15.1 lbf.in.). NOTE: Do not stake the lock nut in this step. Starting Torque: 1.15-1.71 N.m (11.7-17.4 kgf.cm, 10.2-15.1 lbf.in.)
- Apply Prussian Blue to both side of the transfer hypoid drive gear teeth lightly and evenly.
- Install the tapered roller bearing (A), 25 mm thrust shim (B), and transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (C) in the transfer housing (D).
- Install the transfer cover (E) and the bolts, and tighten the bolts. Do not install the O-ring on the transfer cover.
- Rotate the companion flange several times to seat the tapered roller bearings.
- Set a dial indicator (A) on the transfer companion flange (B); position dial indicator tip (C) on the direct extension of the bolt hole center (D).
- Measure the transfer gear backlash. Standard: 0.06-0.17 mm (0.002-0.007 in.)
- Remove the transfer cover, transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly, and check the transfer hypoid drive gear tooth contact pattern.
- If the measurement of the backlash is out of the standard, adjust the transfer gear backlash with the 40 mm thrust shim and recheck. Do not use more than two 40 mm thrust shims to adjust the transfer gear backlash.
- If the transfer gear tooth contact is incorrect, adjust the transfer gear tooth contact with the 25 mm or 40 mm thrust shim. Do not use more than two shims of each thrust shim to adjust the tooth contact. Toe Contact Use a thinner 40 mm thrust shim to move the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) away from the transfer hypoid drive gear. Because this movement causes the transfer gear backlash to change, move the transfer hypoid drive gear toward the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) to adjust the transfer gear backlash as follows: Reduce the thickness of the 25 mm thrust shim. Increase the thickness of the 80 mm thrust shim by amount of reduce thickness of the 25 mm thrust shim. Heel Contact Use a thicker 40 mm thrust shim to move the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) toward the transfer hypoid drive gear. Because this movement causes the transfer backlash to change, move the transfer hypoid drive gear away from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) to adjust the transfer gear backlash as follows: Increase the thickness of the 25 mm thrust shim. Reduce the thickness of the 80 mm thrust shim by the amount of increase thickness of the 25 mm thrust shim. Flank Contact Use a thicker 25 mm thrust shim to move the transfer hypoid drive gear away from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). Flank contact must be adjusted within the limits of the transfer gear backlash. If the backlash exceeds the limits, adjust as described under Heel Contact. Face Contact Use a thinner 25 mm thrust shim to move the transfer hypoid drive gear toward the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear). Face contact must be adjusted within the limits of the transfer gear backlash. If the backlash exceeds the limits, adjust as described under Toe Contact. THRUST SHIM, 25 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS Shim No. Part Number Thickness 1.70 29411-P1C-000 1.70 mm (0.067 in.) 1.73 29412-P1C-000 1.73 mm (0.068 in.) 1.76 29413-P1C-000 1.76 mm (0.069 in.) 1.79 29414-P1C-000 1.79 mm (0.070 in.) 1.82 29415-P1C-000 1.82 mm (0.072 in.) 1.85 29416-P1C-000 1.85 mm (0.073 in.) 1.88 29417-P1C-000 1.88 mm (0.074 in.) 1.91 29418-P1C-000 1.91 mm (0.075 in.) 1.94 29419-P1C-000 1.94 mm (0.076 in.) 1.97 29420-P1C-000 1.97 mm (0.078 in.) 2.00 29421-P1C-000 2.00 mm (0.079 in.) 2.03 29422-P1C-000 2.03 mm (0.080 in.) 2.06 29423-P1C-000 2.06 mm (0.081 in.) 2.09 29424-P1C-000 2.09 mm (0.082 in.) 2.12 29425-P1C-000 2.12 mm (0.083 in.) 2.15 29426-P1C-000 2.15 mm (0.085 in.) 2.18 29427-P1C-000 2.18 mm (0.086 in.) 2.21 29428-P1C-000 2.21 mm (0.087 in.) 2.24 29429-P1C-000 2.24 mm (0.088 in.)
- Remove the transfer cover (A), transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (B), 25 mm thrust shim (C), and tapered roller bearing (D) from the transfer housing (E) after adjusting the transfer gear backlash or transfer gear tooth contact.
- Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with soft jaws, then install the special tool on the companion flange. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.
- Remove the lock nut (A), conical spring washer (B), and companion flange (C) from the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (D).
- Remove the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) from the transfer housing.
- Install the two thrust washers (A) and the new transfer spacer (B) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (C) in the direction shown, and install them in the transfer housing (D).
- Coat the threads of the lock nut and transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) with ATF.
- Install the companion flange (A), new O-ring (B), back up ring (C), new conical spring washer (D), and new lock nut (E) on the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) (F). Install the conical spring washer in the direction shown.
- Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with soft jaws, then install the special tool on the companion flange. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.
- Tighten the lock nut while measuring the starting torque of the transfer output shaft (hypoid gear) so the starting torque is within 1.15-1.71 N.m (11.7- 17.4 kgf.cm, 10.2-15.1 lbf.in.). Tightening Torque: 108-294 N.m (11.0-30.0 kgf.m, 79.6-217 lbf.ft) Starting Torque: 1.15-1.71 N.m (11.7-17.4 kgf.cm, 10.2-15.1 lbf.in.) NOTE: Rotate the companion flange several times to seat the tapered roller bearings, then measure the starting torque. If the starting torque exceeds 1.71 N.m (17.4 kgf.cm, 15.1 lbf.in.), replace the transfer spacer and reassemble the parts. Do not adjust the torque with the lock nut loose. If the tightening torque exceeds 294 N.m (30.0 kgf.m, 217 lbf.ft), replace the transfer spacer and reassemble the parts.
- Remove the special tools.
- Stake the lock nut in depth (A) of 0.7-1.2 mm (0.03-0.05 in.) using a 3.5 mm punch (B).
- Install the tapered roller bearing (A), 25 mm thrust shim (B), and transfer hypoid drive gear/shaft assembly (C) in the transfer housing (D).
- Temporally install the transfer cover (E) without the O-ring. Install and tighten the bolts.
- Secure the transfer housing (A) in a bench vise (B) with soft jaws, then install the special tool on the companion flange. To prevent damage to the transfer housing, always use soft jaws or equivalent materials between the transfer housing and the vise.
- Rotate the transfer companion flange (C) several times to seat the tapered roller bearings.
- Measure the starting torque at the companion flange using a torque wrench (D) and a socket (E). Total Starting Torque: 3.20-4.16 N.m (32.6-42.4 kgf.cm, 28.3-36.8 lbf.in.)
- Remove the transfer cover.
- If the measurement is out of standard, remove the bearing outer race (A) and 80 mm thrust shim (B) from the transfer cover (C). If the bearing outer race is press-fitted, remove the bearing outer race by heating the cover to about 212 °F (100 °C) with a heat gun (D). Do not heat the cover more than 212°F(100°C). If the measurement is within the standard, go to step 41 .
- Measure the thickness of removed 80 mm thrust shim, and select the new 80 mm shim. THRUST SHIM, 80 mm THICKNESS SPECIFICATIONS Shim No. Part Number Thickness A 41401-RDK-000 1.52 mm (0.060 in.) B 41402-RDK-000 1.55 mm (0.061 in.) C 41403-RDK-000 1.58 mm (0.062 in.) D 41404-RDK-000 1.61 mm (0.063 in.) E 41405-RDK-000 1.64 mm (0.065 in.) F 41406-RDK-000 1.67 mm (0.066 in.) G 41407-RDK-000 1.70 mm (0.067 in.) H 41408-RDK-000 1.73 mm (0.068 in.) I 41409-RDK-000 1.76 mm (0.069 in.) J 41410-RDK-000 1.79 mm (0.070 in.) K 41411-RDK-000 1.82 mm (0.072 in.) L 41412-RDK-000 1.85 mm (0.073 in.) M 41413-RDK-000 1.88 mm (0.074 in.) N 41414-RDK-000 1.91 mm (0.075 in.) O 41415-RDK-000 1.94 mm (0.076 in.) P 41416-RDK-000 1.97 mm (0.078 in.) Q 41417-RDK-000 2.00 mm (0.079 in.) R 41418-RDK-000 2.03 mm (0.080 in.) S 41419-RDK-000 2.06 mm (0.081 in.) T 41420-RDK-000 2.09 mm (0.082 in.) U 41421-RDK-000 2.12 mm (0.083 in.) V 41422-RDK-000 2.15 mm (0.085 in.) W 41423-RDK-000 2.18 mm (0.086 in.) X 41424-RDK-000 2.21 mm (0.087 in.) Y 41425-RDK-000 2.24 mm (0.088 in.) Z 41426-RDK-000 2.27 mm (0.089 in.) AA 41427-RDK-000 2.30 mm (0.091 in.) AB 41428-RDK-000 2.33 mm (0.092 in.) AC 41429-RDK-000 2.36 mm (0.093 in.) AD 41430-RDK-000 2.39 mm (0.094 in.) AE 41431-RDK-000 2.42 mm (0.095 in.) AF 41432-RDK-000 2.45 mm (0.096 in.) AG 41433-RDK-000 2.48 mm (0.098 in.) AH 41434-RDK-000 2.51 mm (0.099 in.) AI 41435-RDK-000 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) AJ 41436-RDK-000 2.57 mm (0.101 in.) AK 41437-RDK-000 2.60 mm (0.102 in.) AL 41438-RDK-000 2.63 mm (0.104 in.) AM 41439-RDK-000 2.66 mm (0.105 in.)
- Install the 80 mm trust shim (A) and bearing outer race (B) in the transfer cover (C). If you heated the cover, let it cool to room temperature before installing the thrust shim.
- Drive the outer race securely in the cover with the special tools so there is no clearance between the outer race, thrust shim, and cover.
- After replacing the 80 mm thrust shim, recheck and make sure that the total starting torque is within the specification.
- Install the new O-ring (A) on the transfer cover (B), then install the cover on the transfer housing (C).
- Remove the filler plug (A), then refill the transfer with transfer fluid (hypoid gear oil) into the filler hole. Use a SAE 90 or SAE 80W-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil, API classified GL4 or GL5 only. Viscosity SAE 90: Above 0°F (-18 °C) SAE80W-90: Below 0 °F (-18 °C) Hypoid Gear Oil Capacity: 0.45 L (0.48 US qt)
- Install the filler plug with a new sealing washer (B).
See also:
• PCM IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE
• GAUGE ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
• CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
• RESETTING THE POWER WINDOW CONTROL UNIT
• FLUID REPLACEMENT
• LEFT DRIVESHAFT
• STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
• STEERING WHEEL INSTALLATION
• WHEEL ALIGNMENT
• COMPONENT LOCATION INDEX
• PRECAUTIONS AND PROCEDURES
• IMT (IMRC) ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT
• APP SENSOR SIGNAL INSPECTION
• INSTRUMENT PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
• DTC TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
• SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX
• SCS MODE
• DTC P0705
• DTC P0706
• DTC P0711
• DTC P0712
• DTC P0713
• DTC P0716
• DTC P0717
• DTC P0718
• DTC P0721
• DTC P0722
• DTC P0723
• DTC P0731
• DTC P0732
• DTC P0733
• DTC P0734
• DTC P0735
• DTC P0741
• DTC P0746
• DTC P0747
• DTC P0751
• DTC P0752
• DTC P0756
• DTC P0757
• DTC P0761
• DTC P0762
• DTC P0776
• DTC P0777
• DTC P0780
• DTC P0847
• DTC P0848
• DTC P0872
• DTC P0873
• DTC P0962
• DTC P0963
• DTC P0966
• DTC P0967
• DTC P0970
• DTC P0971
• DTC P0973
• DTC P0974
• DTC P0976
• DTC P0977
• DTC P0979
• DTC P0980
• DTC P1710
• DTC P2769
• DTC P2770
• GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING INFORMATION
• D5 INDICATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• A/T TEMP INDICATOR CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING
• PCM UPDATING AND SUBSTITUTION FOR TESTING
• PRESSURE TEST
• ATF Replacement
• ATF LEVEL CHECK
• A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE C REPLACEMENT
• ATF COOLER CLEANING
• REASSEMBLY
• TRANSMISSION REMOVAL
• TRANSMISSION INSTALLATION
• SHIFT LEVER DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY
• SECONDARY SHAFT 1st GEAR CLEARANCE INSPECTION
• INTERMEDIARY SHAFT 3rd GEAR CLEARANCE INSPECTION
• DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, FINAL DRIVEN GEAR, AND TRANSFER DRIVE GEAR REPLACEMENT