Contents Section: Mechanical All sections

Crankshaft, Pistons Porsche Cayenne S I

Mechanical 138 illustrations ~16741 words

Preliminary work

Scheme 270

Scheme 270: Component overview
No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1- (Scheme 270)Piston rings3Offset gap by 120°; remove and install with piston ring pliers; TOP marking facing towards the piston crown
2- (Scheme 270)Pistons1Mark installation location along with which connecting rods and cylinder they belong to with a felt-tipped pen. Set aside parts so that they are matched up.Installation position corresponds to markings made during removal, the flat side of the piston crown points to the center of the cylinder block.
3- (Scheme 270)Snap ring2 per piston
4- (Scheme 270)Connecting rodMark which cylinder and piston they correspond to with a felt-tipped pen, see also -B- (Scheme 270)Replace in sets, install according to removal markings
5- (Scheme 270)Connecting-rod bearing shells2 per pistonNote installation location, replace bearing shellsReplace bearing shells, retaining lugs of the bearing shells must be on the same side, press the retaining lugs for the bearing shells firmly into the recesses
6- (Scheme 270)Connecting rod bearing cover1 per pistonMark which cylinder and piston they correspond to with a felt-tipped pen, see also -B- (Scheme 270)Install according to removal markings, markings must be on one side -B- (Scheme 270)
7- (Scheme 270)Connecting rod bearing screws2 per piston> Initial tightening: 22 ftlb. --> Final tightening: 90 °
8- (Scheme 270)Cylinder block1
9- (Scheme 270)Piston pins1 per pistonRemove circlips and remove piston pins with appropriate mandrelIf there is any stiffness, heat the piston pins to 60°C, install with appropriate mandrel

Measuring pistons

1. Clean removed pistons with solvent naphtha. To achieve an accurate result, any carbon deposits must be carefully removed, e. g. with a brass brush.

Scheme 271

Scheme 271: Measuring pistons

2. Test piston diameter -D- at the piston shank (at 90° to the axis of the piston pins) using a micrometer (measuring range 75 - 100 mm). Measured from the lower edge of the shank, the height X -X- on the shank is 6 mm. (Scheme 271)

Scheme 272

Scheme 272

Note. If the wear limit is exceeded, the piston must be replaced!

The maximum wear allowed on specified measuring point is 0.04 mm. If this measurement is exceeded, the piston must be replaced. The reference measurement for the piston dimensions is to be taken from the following Table.

When pistons are worn, the wear on the cylinder should also be tested (see below: "Measuring cylinder bore").

Abrasion measurementPiston diameterCylinder diameter
Base measurement in mm83.96584.010
Measurement of wear in mm83.925 (0.04 mm smaller than base measurement)84.09 (0.08 mm larger than base measurement)

Measuring piston ring play

2. Insert the piston ring from top to bottom at right angles to the cylinder wall, about 1.5 mm from the edge of the cylinder. To insert it, use a piston with no piston ring

Scheme 273

Scheme 273: Measuring piston ring play

3. Measure the play in the ring gap with a feeler gauge. Compare the value with the Table.

4. If the measurement for the wear equals or exceeds the limit, the piston rings should be replaced. In addition, the wear on the cylinder should also be determined (see below: "Measuring cylinder bore").

Piston ringPiston ring play
NewLimit for wear
Rectangular rings0.20 -0.40 mm1.0 mm
Stepped taper faced ring0.20 -0.40 mm1.0 mm
Oil wiper ring0.20 -0.40 mm1.0 mm

Measuring piston ring height play

1. Clean removed pistons with solvent naphtha. To achieve an accurate result, any carbon deposits must be carefully removed, e. g. with a brass brush.

2. Take special care to clean the ring groove before testing

Scheme 274

Scheme 274: Measuring piston ring height play

3. Determine the play in height between the piston ring and the ring groove.

4. If the measurement for the wear equals or exceeds the limit, the piston rings and the corresponding piston should be replaced.

Piston ringPlay in height
NewLimit for wear
Rectangular rings0.04 -0.09 mm0.15 mm
Stepped taper faced ring0.03 -0.06 mm0.15 mm
Oil wiper ring0.02 -0.06 mm0.15 mm

Measuring cylinder bore.

1. Prepare the cylinder bore for measuring and clean it with a cloth. Any carbon deposits should be removed using a soft brass wire brush

Scheme 275

Scheme 275: Measuring cylinder bore.

2. Using a vernier gauge for measuring internal dimensions -1 and 2- (measuring range 50 - 100 mm) make measurements of the diagonals at three positions in transverse and longitudinal directions --> Dial gauge - 1 and internal vernier gauge - 2 inside the cylinder bore. (Scheme 275)

Scheme 276

Scheme 276

3. The measuring device should be zero calibrated within the top 10 mm from the edge before the actual measurement is made, since in this region there will be no wear. Thereafter perform the measurement

4. If the measurement for the wear equals or exceeds the limit, the engine should be replaced.

Abrasion measurementPiston diameterCylinder diameter
Base measurement in mm83,96584,010
Measurement of wear in mm83.925 (0.04 mm smaller than base measurement)84.09 (0.08 mm larger than base measurement)

Subsequent work

Tools

DesignationTypeNumberExplanation
Piston ring restraining strap for 944 - S2 and Boxster and 911 Carrera (996)Commercially available toolNR.57
Holding bridgesSpecial toolP 9677

Scheme 277

Scheme 277: Component overview of piston

1 - Three piston rings (lowest is the oil scraper ring)

2 - Piston (arrow on piston crown points in direction of travel)

3 - Two piston-pin circlips

4 - Piston pin

5 - Connecting rod and connecting-rod bearing cap

6 - Two connecting rod bolts

7 - Two bearing shells

Scheme 278

Scheme 278: Identification of pistons

Markings on piston crown: Replacement pistons from Porsche Parts Service are only obtainable in one dimensional group 'X' and in two weight tolerances '+' and '-' . The weight tolerances are listed in the table.

  1. Marking X appears as a large colored stamp in the center of the piston crown and as a small engraved feature (Scheme 278) -1-.
  2. Marking + or - appears as a large colored stamp in the center of the piston crown and as a small engraved feature (Scheme 278) -2-.

Note. Pistons are installed as standard in three dimensional groups: I, X and II . Pistons are installed as standard in two weight tolerances: + and - . These data are all engraved on the piston crown. To uniquely identify a piston, it must be carefully cleaned (brass brush, ultrasonic bath). If, in spite of very thorough cleaning, the data are unreadable, the piston must be weighed together with piston rings, piston pin and the two circlips. Thorough cleaning (ultrasonic bath) is also absolutely essential to the weighing operation as otherwise the measurement result will be false.

1. A piston removed for repair is cleaned and identified. If it needs to be replaced, an X - piston with the identified weight tolerance + or - is ordered as a replacement part and installed.

Weight toleranceFull weight in g (with piston rings)
546.6 - 540.6
+546.6 - 552.6

Preliminary work for removing pistons

5. Remove lower section of crankcase. > Removing and installing crankshaft

Scheme 279

Scheme 279: Removing pistons

1. Secure crankshaft with holding bridges P 9677 at bearings 3 and 5 to prevent it from falling out.

Note. Connecting rod bolts and bearing shells must always be replaced. Turn the crankshaft so that the crank pin of the piston to be removed stands vertically upwards.

2. Remove one piston after another, mark them and place them on a clean tray. The arrow on the bottom of the piston points in the direction of travel.

3. Remove the piston of cylinder 1 by unscrewing the connecting-rod bolts.

4. Remove the connecting-rod bearing cap and place it on a clean surface.

5. Press the piston downwards out of the cylinder, for example with the handle of a hammer, and receive it with the other hand.

Scheme 280

Scheme 280

6. Fit the connecting-rod bearing cap again immediately on the big end of the connecting-rod bearing with the bearing shells and place the entire piston on a clean surface.

7. Mark piston with No. 1 (with a felt-tip, not with a prick punch or other sharp-edged tool).

8. Remove the remaining pistons using the same procedure.

Scheme 281

Scheme 281

Note. Note the association between the connecting-rod big end and the connecting-rod bearing cap as the cracked connecting rods only fit in one position. The retaining lugs of the connecting-rod bearing shells are always located on the same side in order to prevent the bearing shells from turning. The connecting-rod bearing cap and the big end of the connecting-rod bearing have the same connecting-rod numbers.

Scheme 282

Scheme 282

Note. Note the association between the connecting-rod big end and the connecting-rod bearing cap as the cracked connecting rods only fit in one position. The retaining lugs of the connecting-rod bearing shells are always located on the same side in order to prevent the bearing shells from turning. The connecting-rod bearing cap and the big end of the connecting-rod bearing have the same connecting-rod numbers.

Installing pistons

Note. Connecting rod bolts and bearing shells must always be replaced. The identification of the connecting-rod bearings is located on the connecting-rod journal of the crankshaft > Removing and installing crankshaft .

Note. The pistons must already be pre-fitted (pistons, piston rings, connecting rods and fastening material) before performing the next step. > 131037 Disassembling and assembling pistons - "assembling". Install with the number on the connecting rod -A- to the exhaust side. see scheme 14 When installing the piston in the crankcase, the direction of travel arrow on the piston crown must point in the direction of travel. The code on the connecting-rod big end and connecting-rod bearing cap must be on the same side -A-. see scheme 14 The direction of travel arrow is on the same side as the connecting rod code -A- as is evident on the piston shown. This can be installed as standard on one cylinder bank side as shown, and on the other cylinder bank side, the connecting rod code is on the opposite side. However, when the pistons are fitted at a later time, it is absolutely necessary that they be aligned in the direction of travel (see the following point). Install with the number on the connecting rod -A- to the exhaust side. see scheme 15, see scheme 14. The direction of travel arrow must be pointing forwards when installed (in direction of travel).

Scheme 283

Scheme 283

1. Turn the engine in the engine support so that the crankshaft lies at the bottom.

Scheme 284

Scheme 284

2. Install piston. To do this, turn the crankshaft with a wrench (a/f 27) until the corresponding crank pin is pointing vertically downwards.

Scheme 285

Scheme 285

4. Align piston-ring set (staggered by 120°) and compress piston rings using piston ring restraining strap for 944 - S2 and Boxster and 911 Carrera (996) NR.57. Ensure all piston rings are correctly pre-loaded by the special tool -see figure-. (Scheme 285)

5. Position piston on the cylinder from above and push it into the cylinder, using the handle of a hammer if necessary. When doing so, make sure that the direction of travel arrow is pointing forwards -see arrow (illustration shows cylinder 1)-. see scheme 19

Scheme 286

Scheme 286

6. Push piston downwards until the connecting-rod bearing sits on the crank pin. If necessary, use the handle of a hammer to push it -see figure-. (Scheme 286)

7. Oil connecting-rod bearing shells and crank pins.

Note. The piston connecting rods are cracked and only fit in one position (in conjunction with the matching numbers). Install con-rod code towards exhaust side -A-. see scheme 21

8. Then fit connecting-rod bearing cap with bearing shell (twist locks facing each other) --> Retaining lugs for connecting-rod bearings -B and C-. The connecting rod numbers must face each other --> View of matching numbers -A-. Screw in con-rod bolts by hand. see scheme 22, see scheme 23.

9. Fit the opposite piston (cylinders 1 and 4).

10. Fit other pistons using the procedure described above.

11. Turn crankcase on the assembly support until the crankshaft is on top.

12. Tighten con-rod bolts that have been replaced. Turn the crankshaft until the corresponding crank pin is pointing vertically upwards. Tighten bolts with a multiple-tooth socket --> Initial tightening 1: 6 ftlb. --> Initial tightening 2: 15 ftlb. --> Initial tightening 3: 30 ftlb. --> Torque angle (final tightening): 90 ° .

13. Once all pistons have been correctly fitted and secured, turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction to check it, using a ring wrench (a/f 27). When doing so, watch out for stiffness and irregularities. If the crankshaft cannot be turned or if it is very stiff, check whether the installation direction (arrow) of the pistons, the pistons and the cylinders (markings) and the connecting-rod cap and connecting-rod big end all match.

14. Remove holding bridges P 9677 .

Subsequent work for installing pistons

1. Install lower section of crankcase. > Removing and installing crankshaft .

Designation Type Number Explanation Funnel VW-tool T10147

Scheme 287

Scheme 287: Tools

3. Remove cylinder head and take off cylinder head gasket. Refer to 15 70 21 Removing cylinder head - as of MY 2004 (Cayenne TIP, Cayenne MAN) .

Component information

No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1- (Scheme 287)Piston rings3Move the gap through 120°; remove and install using piston ring pliers; TOP marking points toward piston crown
2- (Scheme 287)Pistons1Mark installation position in regard to connecting rod and cylinder allocation with felt-tip; place corresponding components aside together.Installation position according to removal marking; flat side of the piston crown points toward the center of the cylinder block
3- (Scheme 287)Snap ring2 per piston
4- (Scheme 287)Connecting rodMark which cylinder and piston they belong to with a felt-tip pen, see also -B- (Scheme 287)Replace in whole sets; install according to removal marking
5- (Scheme 287)Connecting-rod bearing shells2 per pistonObserve installation position; replace bearing shellsReplace bearing shells; Bearing shell tabs must be on the same side; press bearing shell tabs firmly into the recesses
6- (Scheme 287)Connecting rod bearing cover1 per pistonMark which cylinder and piston they belong to with a felt-tip pen; see also -B- (Scheme 287)Install according to removal markings, which must be on one side -B- (Scheme 287)
7- (Scheme 287)Connecting rod bearing screws2 per pistonReplace
8- (Scheme 287)Cylinder block1
9- (Scheme 287)Piston pins1 per pistonRemove snap rings and piston pin using suitable mandrelIf piston is sluggish, heat to 60 °C; install with suitable mandrel

Scheme 288

Scheme 288: Tools and materials
ItemDesignationSourceExplanation
A- see scheme 26Funnel T10147> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.3 "This funnel helps to maintain the correct angle when installing the pistons. It replaces the piston ring restraining strap for the BFD V6 engine. The stud -arrow- always points to the center of the cylinder block. A new funnel must be deburred with an old piston: i. e. draw the old piston with fitted piston rings a couple of times through the funnel to remove all plastic burrs and residues. If the piston used is to be reinstalled then the plastic shavings will have to be carefully removed. see scheme 26

Removing pistons

Note. The pistons are removed in turn. The pistons, connecting rods and connecting rod caps are marked with a felt-tip pen so that they do not get mixed up. Pistons and connecting rods are laid on a clean surface in cylinder order. Con-rod bolts must always be replaced. If being reinstalled, used bearing shells must not be mixed up. Connecting rod bearing shells should always be replaced.

Note. Note the association between the connecting-rod big end and the connecting-rod bearing cap. The retaining lugs of the connecting-rod bearing shells are always located on the same side in order to prevent the bearing shells from turning. The connecting-rod bearing cap and the connecting-rod big end have cast lugs which must lie above one another. These cast lugs lie on the same side as the twist lock (retaining lugs) of the bearing shells. --> Component arrangement (Scheme 288) The cast lugs, twist locks (retaining lugs) and the flat side of the piston crown are on the same side. --> Component arrangement (Scheme 288) The flat side of the piston crown always points to the center of the cylinder block.. --> Component arrangement (Scheme 288)

Scheme 289

Scheme 289: Removing pistons

1. Turn the crankshaft so that the crankshaft journal of the piston to be removed stands vertically upwards.

2. Remove one piston after another, mark them and place them on a clean tray. The flat side of the piston crown always points to the center of the cylinder block. --> Component arrangement Remove the piston of cylinder 1 by unscrewing the connecting-rod bolts. Remove the connecting-rod bearing cover and place it on a clean surface. Press the piston downwards out of the cylinder, using the handle of a hammer for example, and receive with the other hand. Refit connecting-rod bearing cap immediately on the connecting-rod big end together with the bearing shells (Caution: retaining lugs point to each other) --> Retaining lugs of connecting-rod bearings and place the entire piston on a clean surface. Mark piston with No. 1 (with a felt-tip, not with a prick punch or other sharp-edged tool). see scheme 29, (Scheme 289).

3. Remove all remaining pistons in the same way.

WARNINGDanger of cutting oneself on sharp metal edges!

> Wear suitable protective clothing (e. g. gloves).

CAUTIONDamage to sensitive engine components!

> Conscientious and precise work

Note. The pistons must already be pre-fitted (pistons, piston rings, connecting rods and fastening material) before performing the next step. Note the association between the connecting-rod big end and the connecting-rod bearing cap. The retaining lugs of the connecting-rod bearing shells are always located on the same side in order to prevent the bearing shells from turning. The connecting-rod bearing cap and the connecting-rod big end have cast lugs which must lie above one another. These cast lugs lie on the same side as the twist lock (retaining lugs) of the connecting-rod bearing shells. The cast lugs, twist lock (retaining lugs) and the flat side of the piston crown are on the same side. The flat side of the piston crown always points to the center of the cylinder block. Refit pistons according to removal markings (if being reused). If new connecting-rod bearing shells are used, there will be a red marking on the upper shell and a yellow marking on the lower shell.

1. Note that the piston-ring gaps are offset by 120° with respect to each other.

2. Cylinder barrels, piston bearing surfaces, bearings and the tool funnel T10147 must be oiled with engine oil. Pre-fit the upper bearing shell in the connecting-rod big end. Ensure that the retaining lug fits into the appropriate recess of the connecting-rod big end.

Note. A new funnel T10147 must be deburred with an old piston: i. e. draw the old piston with fitted piston rings a couple of times through the funnel to remove all plastic burrs and residues. If the piston used is to be reinstalled then the plastic shavings will have to be carefully removed.

3. Place special tool funnel T10147 on the appropriate cylinder so that the stud -arrow- always points to the center of the cylinder block. A new funnel must be deburred with an old piston: i. e. first draw the old piston with fitted piston rings a couple of times through the funnel to remove all plastic burrs and residues. If the piston used is to be reinstalled then the plastic shavings will have to be carefully removed.

CAUTIONDamage - danger of piston ring fracture!

> Do not install pistons against resistance and do not use force! Break off the installation attempt, examine the components and try again!

Note. If the piston rings get caught or jammed in the funnel T10147 during insertion into the cylinder, it may be necessary to press the piston rings back into the ring grooves with a soft tool through the slits in the funnel or break off the installation attempt, free the piston and try again.

4. Press the piston very carefully with both thumbs through the funnel into the cylinder. Always keep a close watch on the pistons rings. If necessary, press the piston rings back into the ring grooves with a soft tool through the slits in the funnel or break off the installation attempt, free the piston and try again.

5. Push piston into the cylinder until the connecting-rod big end is positioned just in front of the corresponding connecting-rod bearing of the crankshaft. Push the piston with one hand further into the cylinder and with the other hand push the connecting-rod big end onto the connecting-rod bearing of the crankshaft.

Note. Oil the bearing shells and bearing with engine oil.

6. Place connecting-rod bearing cap fitted with the correct bearing shell on the connecting-rod big end so that the retaining lugs of the bearing shells are on the same side.

7. Insert connecting-rod bolts. Then tighten to the specified tightening torque. --> Tightening torque: 22 ftlb. --> Torque angle: 90 °

8. Turn the crankshaft further so that the crank pin of the next piston to be removed stands vertically upwards. Install other pistons in the same way.

Designation Type Number Explanation piston ring restraining strap commercially available tool 57 Piston ring pliers commercially available tool 58 piston ring pliers Gr. 1 commercially available tool NR.58 Assembly aid special tool P 9500/3 Plunger special tool P 9500/8 Assembly sleeve special tool P 9500/9 Retaining device special tool P 9597

Scheme 290

Scheme 290: Tools

Removing pistons, preliminary work

Scheme 291

Scheme 291: Piston disassembly
ItemDesignationSourceExplanation
A- see scheme 33Retaining device P 9597> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2"As an assembly aid for fixing the piston
B- see scheme 33Assembly aid P 9500/3> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2"For pre-fitting the piston-pin circlip in the assembly sleeve
C- see scheme 33Assembly sleeve P 9500/9> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2"For fitting the piston pin circlip in the correct position
D- see scheme 33Plunger P 9500/8> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2"For fitting the piston pin and piston pin circlip
E- see scheme 33Piston ring pliers 58> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.4"

Piston disassembly - component overview

No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1Two compression rings above, one oil scraper ring below3With piston ring pliers 58With piston ring pliers 58
2Pistons1Push out from crankshaft together with connecting rodOil and install in crankcase with piston ring restraining strap 57
3Piston-pin circlip2Lever out with a small screwdriverInstall in correct position with special tool (see below)
4Piston pins1Drive out using plunger P 9500/8Drive in using plunger P 9500/8
5Connecting rod big end and connecting-rod bearing cover1Matching numbers face one another
6Connecting-rod bolts M9 x 562ReplaceReplace, apply light coat of oil, tighten in accordance with tightening specification
7Connecting-rod bearing shells2ReplaceInstall retaining lug to retaining lug; retaining lugs must be inserted in corresponding grooves in connecting-rod big end and connecting-rod cover

Identification of pistons

Markings on piston crown: Replacement pistons from Porsche Parts Service are only obtainable in one dimensional group 'X' and in two weight tolerances '+' and '-' . The weight tolerances are listed in the table.

  1. Marking X appears as a large colored stamp in the center of the piston crown and as a small engraved feature (Scheme 291) -1-.
  2. Marking + or - appears as a large colored stamp in the center of the piston crown and as a small engraved feature (Scheme 291) -2-.

Note. Pistons are installed as standard in three dimensional groups: I, X and II . Pistons are installed as standard in two weight tolerances: + and - . These data are all engraved on the piston crown. To uniquely identify a piston, it must be carefully cleaned (brass brush, ultrasonic bath). If, in spite of very thorough cleaning, the data are unreadable, the piston must be weighed together with piston rings, piston pin and the two circlips. Thorough cleaning (ultrasonic bath) is also absolutely essential to the weighing operation as otherwise the measurement result will be false.

1. A piston removed for repair is cleaned and identified. If it needs to be replaced, an X - piston with the identified weight tolerance + or - is ordered as a replacement part and installed.

Weight toleranceFull weight in g (with piston rings)
546.6 - 540.6
+546.6 - 552.6

Disassembling pistons

Note. If reusing a piston, do not remove combustion residues on the piston crown are mechanically!

Note. When disassembling the piston/connecting rod unit, note or mark the position, relationship to cylinder and installation position using a waterproof felt tip pen.

Scheme 292

Scheme 292: Disassembling pistons

1. Fix piston on retaining device P 9597 --> Piston on retaining device. see scheme 36

Scheme 293

Scheme 293

2. Remove both piston-pin circlips using a small screwdriver. To do this, guide the screwdriver through the small cutout and carefully lever out the piston-pin circlip --> Levering out piston-pin circlips with a small screwdriver. see scheme 37

Scheme 294

Scheme 294

3. Insert piston in retaining device P 9597 (leave space below for the piston pin) and drive out piston pin using plunger P 9500/8 --> Piston pin with plunger. (Scheme 292)

4. Remove connecting rods from the pistons and place to one side.

CAUTIONEngine damage if piston rings overstretched!

> Do not overstretch piston rings with piston ring pliers. Spread the piston ring until it just fits over the piston.

5. Remove piston rings. Place the piston on a clean surface and look for the gaps in the piston rings.

Scheme 295

Scheme 295

Note. Compression rings and oil scraper rings are installed and removed differently.

6. Remove the piston rings starting from the piston crown. To do this, move the middle point of piston ring pliers Gr. 1 NR.58 into the gap in the relevant ring. The holding arms of the piston ring pliers should clasp the piston ring from above --> Piston ring pliers on piston ring. Only open the piston ring as much as is needed to remove the piston ring from the groove. Do not overstretch it! (Scheme 293)

7. Relieve the piston ring pliers and remove the piston ring from the pliers.

8. Remove the three-piece oil scraper ring as follows: First, remove the upper and lower rings by hand by carefully forcing them away from the piston. Then remove the oil scraper spring carefully in the same way.

Assembling pistons

1. First assemble the three-piece oil scraper ring. To do this, carefully stretch the oil scraper spring by hand at its gap to a point where this can be positioned over the piston in ring groove 3. Carefully force apart a ring in the oil scraper ring by hand and fit it into the third piston ring groove below the oil scraper spring. Fit the second ring in the same way over the oil scraper spring.

2. When fitted, the gap in the oil scraper ring must be offset by exactly 180° with respect to the gap in the oil scraper spring. Make sure that the oil scraper spring is in the middle of the oil scraper ring.

Scheme 296

Scheme 296: Assembling pistons

Note. The two compression rings have different strengths and can only be installed in the appropriate groove. If the piston ring has the inscription TOP, this must point to the piston crown.

3. Insert piston ring into the piston ring pliers. Make sure that, when installed, the designation of the piston rings is pointing in the direction of the piston crown -A-. Spread the piston ring until it just fits over the piston. (Scheme 294)

4. Fit piston rings. Using the piston ring pliers, insert the middle piston ring into the second ring groove in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown. Insert the top piston ring into ring groove 1 in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown.

5. Check that the piston rings are correctly seated and positioned. Make sure that the oil scraper spring is inside the oil scraper ring. In the case of the piston ring in ring groove 2, the inscription TOP must point to the piston crown. The top piston ring must be installed in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown. The gaps in the individual piston rings must always be offset by 120°.

Scheme 297

Scheme 297

6. Pre-fit piston-pin circlip in assembly sleeve. To do this, insert the ring in assembly sleeve P 9500/9, so that the ring gap is at 6 o'clock or alternatively 11 o'clock (piston crown on top), the assembly groove of the assembly sleeve pointing towards the piston crown --> Ring gap indicating 11 o'clock. (Scheme 295)

Scheme 298

Scheme 298

7. Position the assembly sleeve on an even surface with the groove facing downwards and use the assembly aid P 9500/3 to drive down the circlip into the installation position so that the circlip is under tension and sitting in the correct position -arrow-. (Scheme 296)

Scheme 299

Scheme 299

8. Check installation position of piston-pin circlip in the assembly sleeve --> Ring gap here at 6 o'clock. (Scheme 297)

Scheme 300

Scheme 300

9. Position the assembly sleeve on the piston so that the assembly groove of the assembly sleeve points to the piston crown --> Assembly sleeve on piston. (Scheme 298)

10. Insert plunger P 9500/8 through the assembly sleeve and fit the piston-pin circlip by tapping it with a hammer into the groove of the piston pin eye.

11. Fix piston on retaining device P 9597 with fitted piston-pin circlip facing downwards --> Piston on retaining device. (Scheme 299)

12. Gap of circlip must point downwards away from the piston crown (analogous to 6 o'clock, alternatively 11 o'clock). Place piston pin and connecting rod in installation position. Align connecting rod with matching number so that the matching numbers point to the exhaust side -A-. Illustration shows direction of travel in this case and connecting rod code on one side. (Scheme 300)

13. Fit oiled piston pin through the piston and connecting-rod eye as far as the circlip. Using a plastic hammer, tap gently on plunger P 9500/8, driving the piston pin into the pre-fitted piston-pin circlip -arrow-. see scheme 47

Scheme 301

Scheme 301

14. Fit the second piston-pin circlip using the same procedure. Align gap of circlip so that it points downwards away from the piston crown (analogous to 6 o'clock, alternatively 11 o'clock) -arrow-. see scheme 48

15. Check connecting rod and piston for smooth operation.

Note. The connecting rods are cracked and together with the matching numbers cannot be mixed up! Connecting rod bolts and bearing shells must always be replaced. The identification of the connecting-rod bearings is located on the connecting-rod journal of the crankshaft > Removing and installing crankshaft .

16. Fit connecting-rod bearing shells in connecting-rod big end and connecting-rod bearing cap. The retaining lugs must be positioned in the appropriate grooves and on the same side -B and C-. The matching numbers -A- must be the same and on the same side (when installed they point to the exhaust side). Tighten the connecting rod bolts by hand and position the complete connecting rod ready for assembly. see scheme 49, (Scheme 301).

Designation Type Number Explanation Piston ring pliers Gr. 1 commercially available tool NR.58 Retaining device special tool P 9597

Scheme 302

Scheme 302: Special tools
ItemDesignationSourceExplanation
A- see scheme 51Retaining device P 9597See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2Assembly aid for fixing the piston. The piston/conecting rod joint of the V6 is too long for the tool. In order for the tool to fit, both fastening screws of the bracket for the large connecting-rod eye must be removed and the length adjusted accordingly.
B- see scheme 51Piston ring pliers Gr. 1 NR.58See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.4For careful assembly of the piston rings
No.DesignationQty.RemovalInstallation
1- see scheme 52Piston rings3Move the gap through 120°; remove and install using piston ring pliers; TOP marking points toward piston crown
2- see scheme 52Pistons1Mark installation position with respect to connecting rod and cylinder allocation with a felt-tip pen; place corresponding components aside together.Installation position according to removal marking; flat side of the piston crown points toward the center of the cylinder block
3- see scheme 52Circlip2 per piston
4- see scheme 52Connecting rodMark allocation to cylinder and piston with a felt-tip pen, see also -B- see scheme 52Replace in sets; install according to removal marking
5- see scheme 52Connecting-rod bearing shells2 per pistonObserve installation position; replace bearing shellsReplace bearing shells; bearing shell retaining lugs must be on the same side; press bearing shell retaining lugs firmly into the recesses
6- see scheme 52Connecting-rod bearing cover1 per pistonMark allocation to cylinder and piston with a felt-tip pen, see also -B- see scheme 52Install according to removal marking; markings must be on same side -B
7- see scheme 52Connecting-rod bearing screws2 per piston> pre-tightening torque: 30 (22 ftlb.) Nm --> torque angle: 90 °
8- see scheme 52Cylinder block1
9- see scheme 52Piston pin1 per pistonTake off circlips and remove piston pin using suitable mandrelIf it is sluggish, heat the piston to 60 °C; install with suitable mandrel
CAUTIONDanger of cuts due to sharp-edged components!

> Wear personal protective gear (gloves, safety goggles).

WARNINGDanger of injury due to piston pin circlip jumping off!

> Make sure that the piston pin circlip is secured against jumping off at all times (wear gloves and hold circlip in position with thumb).

Note. Combustion deposits on the piston crown are not to be removed mechanically!

Note. When disassembling the piston/connecting rod unit, note or mark the position, relationship to cylinder and installation position using a waterproof felt tip pen. Some Figures show the piston of the V8 as the work steps are analagous.

1. Fix piston onto retaining device P 9597 --> Retaining device. In order to do this, adapt the tool. Remove both fastening screws of the bracket for the large connecting-rod eye Then adjust tool length accordingly. Position piston with connecting rod. see scheme 53

2. Remove both piston pin circlips using a small screwdriver. To do this, guide the screwdriver through the small cutout and carefully lever out the piston pin circlip --> Removing piston pin circlip. (Scheme 302)

Note. If piston is sluggish, heat to 60 °C and remove and install with mandrel.

3. Insert piston in retaining device P 9597 (leave space below for the piston pins) and drive out piston pin using a suitable mandrel applying force by hand --> Piston pin mandrel. Secure piston pin against falling. see scheme 55

4. Remove connecting rod from the piston and place to one side.

CAUTIONOver-extension of piston rings due to incorrect assembly! Damage to piston rings.

> Force apart the piston rings using the piston ring pliers just far enough for it to be possible to remove or install them.

5. Place the piston on a clean surface and look for the gaps in the piston rings.

Note. Compression rings and oil scraper rings are installed and removed differently.

6. Remove the piston rings starting from the piston crown. In order to do this, move the middle point of the piston ring pliers Gr. 1 NR.58 into the gap in the relevant ring. The holding arms of the piston ring pliers should clasp the piston ring from above --> Piston ring pliers. Only open the piston ring as much as is needed to remove the piston ring from the groove. Do not overstretch it! see scheme 56

7. Relieve the piston ring pliers and remove the piston ring from the pliers.

8. Remove the three-piece oil scraper ring as follows: First, remove the upper and lower rings by hand by carefully forcing them away from the piston. Then remove the oil scraper spring carefully in the same way.

1. First fit the three-piece oil scraper ring. To do this, carefully stretch the oil scraper spring by hand at its gap to a point where this can be positioned over the piston into ring groove 3. Carefully force apart a ring of the oil scraper ring by hand and fit it into the third piston ring groove below the oil scraper spring. Fit the second ring in the same way over the oil scraper spring.

2. When fitted, the gap in the oil scraper ring must be offset by exactly 180° with respect to the gap in the oil scraper spring. Make sure that the oil scraper spring is in the middle of the oil scraper ring.

Note. The TOP marking must always face the piston crown.

3. Insert piston ring into the piston ring pliers. Make sure that, when the piston rings are installed, the designation of the piston rings is pointing in the direction of the piston crown --> Piston ring designation. Force the piston ring apart just enough for it to fit over the piston. see scheme 57

4. Fit piston rings. Using the piston ring pliers, insert the middle piston ring into the second ring groove in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown. Insert the top piston ring into ring groove 1 in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown.

5. Check that the piston rings are correctly seated and positioned. Make sure that the oil scraper spring is inside the oil scraper ring. In the case of the piston ring in ring groove 2, the inscription TOP must point to the piston crown. The top piston ring must be installed in such a way that the inscription TOP is facing the piston crown. The gaps in the individual piston rings must always be offset by 120°.

Scheme 303

Scheme 303

Note. The gap of the piston ring may not be located next to the removal recess.

6. Install a piston circlip. In order to do this, insert the piston circlip into the ring groove of the piston pin eye in such a fashion that the ring gap is offset approx. 30° with respect to the piston crown. Press this gap end into the ring groove with your thumb -1-. see scheme 58

Scheme 304

Scheme 304

7. Lever the piston circlip into the ring groove using a small screwdriver while continuing to press it down.

Scheme 305

Scheme 305

8. If the piston circlip does not slide into the ring groove right away, press the second gap end of the piston circlip into the ring groove. Ensure correct installation seating.

9. Fix piston on retaining device P 9597 with fitted piston pin circlip facing downwards --> Retaining device. (Scheme 303)

10. Place piston pin and connecting rod in installation position. Make sure that the cast lugs on the connecting rod and connecting-rod big end are on the same side as the flat side of the piston crown.

Note. If piston is sluggish, heat to 60 °C and remove and install with mandrel.

11. Fit the greased piston pin through the piston and connecting-rod eye up to the circlip. If necessary, drive the piston pin up to the prefitted piston circlip by lightly tapping a suitable pressure piece with a plastic hammer --> Piston pin mandrel. (Scheme 305)

12. Fit the second piston pin circlip using the same procedure.

13. Check connecting rod and piston for smooth operation.

Note. The connecting-rod bolts must be replaced!

14. Fit connecting-rod bearing shells in connecting-rod big end and connecting-rod bearing cover. The retaining lugs must be positioned in the appropriate grooves and on the same side -B and C-. Cast lugs on the connecting-rod big end and the connecting-rod cover must lie on the same side as the flat side of the piston crown. Tighten the connecting-rod bolts by hand and set down the complete connecting rod ready for assembly. see scheme 64

Replacing piston rings

1. See work step stages in the repair instructions > 131037 Disassembling and assembling pistons .

Removing and installing connecting rod

1. See work step stages in the repair instructions > 131037 Disassembling and assembling pistons .

DesignationTypeNumberExplanation
Plastigage for measuring bearing clearanceCommercially available toolNR.52

Tools and measuring/test equipment

DesignationSourceExplanation
Plastigage for measuring bearing clearance NR.52> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.4"Used for the simple measurement of radial play in plain bearings; available in three sizes and thicknesses; select thickness according to the bearing clearance expected (in this case: measuring range from 0.051 to 0.152 mm, red).

Scheme 306

Scheme 306: Component overview
No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1- see scheme 66Bearing cover7Bearing 1 on the side of the vibration damper, bearing cover 5 with recess for thrust washers, retaining lugs for bearing shells on the same side
2- see scheme 66Bearing cover screws14> Initial tightening: 22 ftlb. --> Final tightening: 90 ° + --> Final tightening: 90 °
3- see scheme 66Bearing shells14Used bearing shells should be marked with a felt-tip pen (when not replacing). If the bearing shells are replaced, use only identical color markings.Fit used shells at the same position (when not replacing). When replacing bearing shells, use only shells with the same color markings. Retaining lugs for bearing shells on the same side.
4- see scheme 66Thrust washer2Replacement only for bearing cover 5. Observe the fastening, attach with lubricant with the lubricating groove facing outwards.
5- see scheme 66Crankshaft1Position the crankshaft so that the sensor wheel does not impinge or become damaged. Replace the sensor wheel for speed measurement > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft .Subsequent work on the crankshaft is not permitted. Replace bearing shells
6- see scheme 66Pickup (sensor) wheel1Redo test if necessary. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaftRedo test if necessary. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft
7- see scheme 66Fastening screws3Replace > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaftReplace > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft
8- see scheme 66Oil spray jetFor crankshaft bearings 2 to 7If the oil circuit is dirty, replacement is essential. Opening pressure 2 bars. Push in and out (by hand) using a suitable mandrel.Push in and out (by hand) using a suitable mandrel.

Measuring radial play of crankshaft

1. Dismantle bearing cover for shaft journals and remove along with bearing shells.

2. Clean shaft journal and bearing shells with a lint-free cloth.

Scheme 307

Scheme 307: Measuring radial play of crankshaft

Note. When measuring radial play, do not rotate the crankshaft. Plastigage is highly susceptible to damage Insert Plastigage carefully. With the Plastigage strip inserted, do not allow any sideways or axial movement of the bearing shells otherwise the measurements may be incorrect (changes to the Plastigage strip).

3. Lay the 10 mm strip of the red Plastigage on the shaft journals or on the bearing shells. -arrow- see scheme 67

4. Attach the bearing cover along with the bearing shell with the correct tightening torque. For details see > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft

Scheme 308

Scheme 308

Note. The Plastigage packaging features a representation of a measurement scale on both sides, one in inches and the other in millimeters. Do not mix up the two of them when measuring.

5. Remove the bearing cap again and compare the thickness of the Plastigage with the scale on the packaging. If the limit of wear is equalled or exceeded, replace the crankshaft and bearing shells. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft. see scheme 68

Connecting rod bearings (crank pins)Main bearing (shaft journals)
53.968 mm59.958 mm
CrankshaftRadial play measured using Plastigage
NewLimit for wear
Main bearing (shaft journals)0.02....0.06 mm0.10 mm

Scheme 309

Scheme 309: Measuring axial play of crankshaft

1. Measure the axial bearing play (bearing cover 5) between the thrust washer and the crank web -see illustration-. When measuring turn the crankshaft by hand in the direction of travel. If the limit of wear has been equalled or exceeded, dismantle the bearing cover and perform the measurement again with new thrust washers. If the measured values from the last measurement show no improvement, the crankshaft and bearing shells should be replaced. (Scheme 306)

Connecting rod bearings (crankshaft journals)Main bearing (shaft journals)
53.968 mm59.958 mm
CrankshaftAxial play
NewLimit for wear
Bearing 5 (guide bearing)0.07 mm0.30 mm
DesignationTypeNumberExplanation
Centring pinsSpecial toolP 9321
Holding bridgesSpecial toolP 9677

Scheme 310

Scheme 310: Removing crankshaft

1 - Crankshaft

2 - Straight pin

3 - Feather key

4 - Thrust washer, insert with grease no. 000.043.204.17

5 - Upper crankshaft bearing shell, lubricate with motor oil

6 - Lower crankshaft bearing shell, lubricate with motor oil

7 - Radial shaft sealing ring, crankshaft

H - Main bearing, location of color dots

P - Connecting rod bearing, location of color dots

Note. The color codes of the crankshaft bearings and bearing shells must match! To ensure that the bearings and bearing shells are of a matching class during installation, the bearing numbers are to be written on the backs of the bearings during removal of the main bearing shells with a waterproof felt-tipped pen, due to that fact that the ink markings wear off of the crankshaft journals as well as the main bearing shells. New bearing shells are always to be installed when the engine is repaired.

Crankshaft
Main bearing shells + connecting-rod bearing shellsRedYellowBlue
RedX
YellowX
BlueX

Scheme 311

Scheme 311

1. Remove chain drive wheel from crankshaft. Unscrew fastening screw on belt pulley. Pull off chain sprocket with drive chain on oil pump; do not lose feather key when doing so.

Scheme 312

Scheme 312

Scheme 313

Scheme 313

2. Unscrew the four hexagon socket head bolts on the clutch side (M8). --> Clutch side (Scheme 310)

3. Unscrew the outer cross bolt connection (M8 x 70) in the opposite order to the sequence shown.

Scheme 314

Scheme 314

4. The figures below indicate the tightening sequence. The fastening screws are undone in the opposite order to the tightening sequence shown. --> Outer bearing seat (Scheme 312)

Scheme 315

Scheme 315

5. Undo inner bearing seat in the opposite order to the tightening sequence shown. --> Inner bearing seat (Scheme 313)

Scheme 316

Scheme 316

6. Remove lower part of crankcase.

7. Remove any remaining sealant and the old sealing ring in the upper part of the crankcase.

8. Fit holding bridges P 9677 on the crankshaft -arrows-. (Scheme 314)

9. Remove pistons. > 131019 Removing and installing pistons -"Removing" chapter Rotate engine block in engine stand through 180° so that the crankshaft can be removed.

CAUTIONDanger of crushing! Risk of crushing your hands when lifting the crankshaft.

> Hold the very outside of the crankshaft.

> Wear gloves.

10. Undo holding bridges P 9677 and carefully remove crankshaft upwards.

Installing crankshaft

Note. If no clear markings can be seen after thorough cleaning of the crankshaft and the bearings, the crankshaft and the corresponding bearing shells are to be replaced.

Scheme 317

Scheme 317: Installing crankshaft

Scheme 318

Scheme 318

Note. The bearing shells are available in various tolerance classes. The classes are indicated by the color marking on the outside -refer to Figure-. The color marking must match the corresponding color dot on the crankshaft. The colors are red, yellow and blue and must match between the bearings and the crankshaft. (Scheme 316) To ensure that the bearings and bearing shells are of a matching class during installation, the bearing numbers are to be written on the backs of the bearings during removal of the main bearing shells with a waterproof felt-tipped pen, due to that fact that the ink markings wear off of the crankshaft journals as well as the main bearing shells. New connecting rod bearings main bearing shells are always to be installed when the motor is repaired.

1. Insert the bearing shells with the lubricating groove into the upper part of the crankcase. Make sure the twist locks are positioned correctly -see figure-. Then lightly oil the bearing locations. (Scheme 315)

Scheme 319

Scheme 319

2. Insert the sickle-shaped washers (make sure of axial bearing play). To do this, insert the two sickle-shaped washers (thrust washers) on the left and right on crankshaft bearing No. 3 with some grease (000.043.204.17) -see figure- to prevent the sickle-shaped washers from falling off. Each of the lubricating grooves of the sickle-shaped washers must face outwards. see scheme 80

CAUTIONDanger of crushing! Risk of crushing your hands when lifting the crankshaft.

> Hold the very outside of the crankshaft.

> Wear gloves.

3. Insert crankshaft. The connecting flange must point towards the back of the engine. Then secure the crankshaft from falling down using holding bridges P 9677. Fix the holding bridges at bearing locations 3 and 5. Screw the fastening screw from the belt pulley at the front into the crankshaft and tighten slightly so that the crankshaft can be turned -see figure-. (Scheme 317)

4. Turn crankcase by 180° on the assembly support.

6. Turn crankcase again through 180° on the assembly support.

7. Make sure the crankcase is ready to be screwed in. Check that the sickle-shaped washers are positioned correctly. Degrease parting surfaces between upper and lower parts of the crankcase. A totally grease-free product (e. g. brake cleaner) must be used for this. Then insert a new O-ring at the front of the parting surface -3-. (Scheme 318)

Scheme 320

Scheme 320

1 - Crankcase, lower part

2 - Cylindrical pin used to center the lower part of the crankcase on the crankcase

3 - Sealing ring; replace

4 - Application of sealant; Drei Bond Silikon 2210 liquid sealant (000.043.204.58, status 02/06) must be applied and the screws screwed in within five minutes and without interruption

5 - Thrust-bearing screw, M12 x 1.5 x 132

6 - Thrust-bearing screw, M10 x 117

7 - Fastening screw, M8 x 70

8 - Fastening screw, M8 x 35

9 - Fastening screw, M8 x 50

10 - Dowel sleeve

Scheme 321

Scheme 321

8. Screw the two thin centring pins P 9321 into the outer fastening bores on the upper part of the crankcase -see illustration (shown without crankshaft)-. (Scheme 319)

9. Insert bearing shells into lower part of crankcase and lightly oil them. When doing so, ensure that the twist locks (retaining lugs) fit into the appropriate recesses in the lower part of the crankcase.

Note. The liquid sealant must be applied and the screws screwed in within five minutes at most and without interruption. The required tool (torque wrench for 15 Nm (11 ftlb.) to 40 Nm (30 ftlb.); torque angle wrench; socket wrench E12, E14 and E14) must be ready for use. The threads and head contact surface of the bearing seat screws (M10 x 1.5 and M12 x 1.5) must be oiled.

10. Apply Drei Bond Silikon 2210 liquid sealant (000.043.204.58, status 02/06) to the lower part of the crankcase as shown. The outer surfaces marked -A- must be cleaned after fitting. (Scheme 320)

Scheme 322

Scheme 322

11. Place lower part of crankcase into position. When doing so, make sure that the sealing bead is not destroyed.

Note. Unscrew the centring pins again while securing the lower part of the crankcase.

12. The figures below indicate the tightening sequence. The screws are tightened in four steps. It is essential that the tightening sequence is observed here. The screws must be tightened within five minutes.

> Initial tightening: 40 (30 ftlb.) Nm

> Initial tightening: 22 (16 ftlb.) Nm

> Final tightening: 56 °

> Final tightening: 60 °

Inner bearing seat

Outer bearing seat

13. Then screw on the outer cross bolt connection (M8 x 70) in the sequence shown --> Tightening torque: 23 (17 ftlb.) Nm .

14. Tighten the four hexagon socket bolts on the clutch side (M8 x 35) --> Tightening torque: 23 (17 ftlb.) Nm .

15. Fit chain drive sprocket on the crankshaft. Unscrew fastening screw on belt pulley. Check that the feather keys are fitted correctly and push on the chain sprocket with the oil pump drive chain --> Chain drive wheel. The double-tooth row must be facing forwards. see scheme 90

Designation Type Number Explanation assembly fixture VW-tool T10215

Component overview

No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1- see scheme 91Bearing cover7Bearing cover 1 on the side of the vibration damper, bearing cover 5 with recess for thrust washers, retaining lugs for bearing shells on the same side
2- see scheme 91Bearing cover screws14> Initial tightening: 30 (22 ftlb.) Nm --> Final tightening: 180 °
3- see scheme 91Bearing shells14Used bearing shells should be marked with a felt-tip pen (when not replacing). If the bearing shells are replaced, use only identical color markings.Fit used shells at the same position (when not replacing). When replacing bearing shells, use only shells with the same color markings. Retaining lugs for bearing shells on the same side.
4- see scheme 91Thrust washer2Replacement only for bearing cover 5. Observe the fastening, attach with lubricant with the lubricating groove facing outwards.
5- see scheme 91Crankshaft1Position the crankshaft so that the pulse wheel does not impinge or become damaged. Replacing the pulse wheel for speed measurement. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaftSubsequent work on the crankshaft is not permitted. Replace bearing shells
6- see scheme 91Pickup (sensor) wheel1Redo test if necessary. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaftRedo test if necessary. > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft
7- see scheme 91Fastening screws3Replace > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaftReplace > 134819 Removing and installing crankshaft
8- see scheme 91Oil spray jetFor crankshaft bearings 2 to 7If the oil circuit is dirty, replacement is essential. Opening pressure 2 bars. Push in and out (by hand) using a suitable mandrel.Push in and out (by hand) using a suitable mandrel.

Scheme 323

Scheme 323
No.DesignationQty.RemovalFitting
1- see scheme 92Fastening screw for vibration damper1> Initial tightening: 100 (74 ftlb.) Nm --> Final tightening: 90 °
2- see scheme 92Vibration damper1
3- see scheme 92Fastening screw, M616> Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm --> Tightening torque : 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm
4- see scheme 92Sealing ring: from 2005 as of engine number BFD20319 permanently integrated in joint flange -5- see scheme 921
5- see scheme 92Sealing flange1Insert using silicone sealant 000.043.300.39
6- see scheme 92Cylinder block1
7- see scheme 92Chain case lid, bottom1Clean sealing faces.Prepare sealing faces; insert using silicon sealant 000.043.300.39
8- see scheme 92Sealing ring1Installation see > 135919 Removing and installing crankshaft flywheel sealing ring - "Installing" chapter .
9- see scheme 92Double-mass flywheel1
10- see scheme 92Fastening screw for double-mass flywheel, M10 x 20> Initial tightening: 60 (44 ftlb.) Nm --> Final tightening : 90 °
11- see scheme 92Fastening screw, M8 x 282> Tightening torque: 23 (17 ftlb.) Nm Tightening torque 23 Nm (17 ftlb.)

Removing crankshaft

CAUTIONDamage to sensitive engine components (e. g. speed sensor wheel)

> Conscientious and precise work

> Use suitable storage places.

Scheme 324

Scheme 324

1. Remove the joint flange at the front behind the belt pulley. Do this by removing all the fastening screws and carefully levering out the joint flange. Clean sealing faces.

Scheme 325

Scheme 325

Note. Bearing covers for the crankshaft are numbered 1 to 7 and the numbers can be read on the side facing the exhaust. Bearing no. 5 is a guide or thrust bearing with two thrust washers at the side. The twist locks or retaining lugs are on the same side. Bearing screws must be replaced. Bearing shells must be replaced. Use only identical color markings

2. Dismantle all bearing covers from the crankshaft. Bearing covers and shells are assigned to specific cylinders and should be set aside on a clean surface where they will not get mixed up. For bearing cover no. 5, carefully remove the thrust washers at the side.

CAUTIONRisk of cutting or squashing by heavy components with sharp edges (crankshaft)! There is a danger of injury to hands when inserting the crankshaft.

> Hold the very outside of the crankshaft.

> Wear gloves.

> Allow an assistant to help lift the crankshaft.

Note. Prepare a suitable storage space for the crankshaft so that the speed sensor wheel is not damaged.

3. With the help of assistants, carefully lift the crankshaft out of the cylinder block and set aside on a soft, clean surface so that the sensor wheel is not damaged.

1. Replace bearing shells and thrust washers. When replacing bearing shells make sure that the color markings match.

2. Insert bearing shells into the bearings and bearing covers after oiling them. Insert twist locks or retaining lugs for the bearing shells into the recesses. Make sure the twist locks are positioned correctly --> Twist locks. (Scheme 323)

CAUTIONRisk of cutting or squashing by heavy components with sharp edges (crankshaft)! There is a danger of injury to hands when inserting the crankshaft.

> Hold the very outside of the crankshaft.

> Wear gloves.

> Allow an assistant to help lift the crankshaft.

3. Carefully insert the crankshaft into the cylinder block with the help of an assistant. Test once again that the bearing shells and thrust washers are correctly positioned (they can easily shift out of place). Oil crankshaft journals.

Note. Bearing covers for the crankshaft are numbered 1 to 7 and the numbers can be read on the side facing the exhaust. Bearing no. 5 is a guide or thrust bearing with two thrust washers at the side. The twist locks or retaining lugs are on the same side. Bearing screws must be replaced. Bearing shells must be replaced. Use only identical color markings

4. Replace fastening screws for bearing covers. Attach all bearing covers to the crankshaft. Bearing covers and shells should be oiled and installed so that the twist locks or retaining lugs are on the same side.

5. Insert sickle-shaped washers into bearing cover no. 5 (make sure there is axial play in the bearings). Insert the two sickle-shaped washers (thrust washers) to the left and right of bearing cover no. 5 with a certain amount of grease so that the washers do not fall down. Each of the lubricating grooves of the sickle-shaped washers must face outwards. Assemble bearing cover no. 5 along with the greased thrust washers.

6. Pull out all the bearing cover fastening screws diagonally outward from the middle --> Initial tightening: 30 (22 ftlb.) Nm --> Final tightening: 180 ° .

Note. Lubricant must be applied thinly to the inside of the bore.

7. Install joint flange at the front behind the pulley. To do this clean sealing faces. Apply silicon sealant 000.040.300.39 thinly and evenly on the sealing faces of the joint flange. Mount joint flange immediately and fit fastening screws. Tighten fastening screws evenly. --> Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm

Scheme 326

Scheme 326

Note. The crankshaft sealing ring for the pulley was changed in model year 2005 as of engine number BFD20319. This crankshaft sealing ring is now permanently integrated in the joint flange and can no longer be changed as a separate item. If there is a leak, the complete joint flange must be replaced.

8. The sealing faces must all be clean and free of grease.

Scheme 327

Scheme 327

9. Apply sealant 000 043 300 39 as shown in the illustration -arrows-. Ensure that the bead of sealant is no thicker than approx. 2 to 3 mm and is run past the bores on the inside. Mount the joint flange within five minutes. see scheme 98

Scheme 328

Scheme 328

10. Push front of special tool (guide sleeve) assembly fixture T10215 onto the crankshaft journal. Slide joint flange over the guide sleeve and into the installation position.

11. Screw down joint flange. --> Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm

Replacing pick-up (sensor) wheel

1. Remove the crankshaft and set it aside so that the speed sensor wheel is easily accessible and is not in contact with the shaft.

Scheme 329

Scheme 329: Replacing pick-up (sensor) wheel

2. Loosen the fastening screws -1 and 2-. Carefully remove the speed sensor wheel. see scheme 100

3. Clean the attachment surfaces Smear the attachment surfaces thinly with medium locking agent.

4. Immediately position a new speed sensor wheel on the crankshaft and align it. Align the VR6 marking to the individual bore on the crankshaft. Apply medium-tight screw locking agent to all fastening screws with and tighten the screws hand-tight. Tighten the fastening screw -1- first. Insert --> Initial tightening: 7.5 ftlb. Insert --> Final tightening: 90 ° Then tighten the screw -2- firmly. Insert --> Initial tightening: 7.5 ftlb. Insert --> Final tightening: 90 °. see scheme 100

5. Install crankshaft.

Scheme 330

Scheme 330

6. Check whether the gap in the teeth of the speed sensor wheel points downwards in the top dead center position -arrow-. At the same time, the ground tooth of the crankshaft sprocket must align with the joint face of the bearing cover -B-. (Scheme 327), (Scheme 328).

Scheme 331

Scheme 331

Designation Type Number Explanation Drift punch, 1 mm tip, commercially available tool NR.167 Slide hammer kit commercially available tool NR.168 Multiple-tooth socket wrench insert M12 commercially available tool NR.31 Toothed segment special tool P 201a insertion device VW-tool T10122

Scheme 332

Scheme 332: Tools

Scheme 333

Scheme 333

Scheme 334

Scheme 334: Preliminary work

1. Remove drive plate or double-mass flywheel (DMF). To do this, loosen the fastening screws crosswise. > Removing and installing double-mass flywheel (DMF) [9PAAD7] or > 136319 Removing and installing drive plate for torque converter [9PAAD1]

Scheme 335

Scheme 335: Special tools required
ItemDesignation of toolExplanation
A- (Scheme 330)Slide hammer kit NR.168
B- (Scheme 330)T10122/1 sleeveIncluded in the insertion device T10122 .
C- (Scheme 330)T10122/2 assembly sleeveIncluded in the insertion device T10122 .
D- (Scheme 330)T10122/3 pressure pieceIncluded in the insertion device T10122 .
E- (Scheme 330)Extractor tipContained in slide hammer kit NR.168 .
F- (Scheme 330)Connecting pieceContained in slide hammer kit NR.168 .
G- (Scheme 330)Multiple-tooth socket wrench insert M12 NR.31
H- (Scheme 330)Drift punch, 1 mm tip, NR.167
I- (Scheme 330)Toothed segment P 201a

Removing crankshaft sealing ring on flywheel side

Note. Here are some pictures showing the engine from the Cayenne V8. The work steps are to be performed in the same way.

Scheme 336

Scheme 336: Removing crankshaft sealing ring on flywheel side

1. Using the drift punch (1-mm tip) NR.167 , punch a small hole into a non-rubberised spot (rectangular window in the ring) of the sealing ring.

Scheme 337

Scheme 337

2. Screw in the extractor tip. Knock out the extractor tip using slide hammer kit NR.168 in conjunction with the sealing ring.

Scheme 338

Scheme 338

Note. If a crankshaft stub is dirty or slightly rusted, this will damage the new sealing ring when it is fitted. The crankshaft stub must be cleaned before the old sealing ring is removed so that no particles of dirt can reach the engine. Use a metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull) for this.

3. Clean the crankshaft stub. The crankshaft stub must not be dirty or rusty. If necessary, clean it with brake cleaner and grind off any rust with a metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull).

Installing crankshaft sealing ring on flywheel side

WARNINGDamage to the crankshaft sealing ring!

> Never deform or touch the sealing lips.

> Only install dry sealing ring.

Note. The insertion device T10122 tool set consists of a sleeve, an assembly sleeve and a pressure piece.

Scheme 339

Scheme 339

1. Insert sleeve into the assembly sleeve.

Scheme 340

Scheme 340

2. Push sealing ring (with outer side first) over the sleeve until it is on the assembly sleeve.

Scheme 341

Scheme 341

3. Pull sleeve out of the assembly sleeve.

4. Position the assembly sleeve on the crankshaft stub.

Scheme 342

Scheme 342

5. Position the pressure piece and use a rubber hammer to tap evenly around the edges of the pressure piece until it is fitted evenly all round.

6. Remove pressure piece and assembly sleeve.

Designation Type Number Explanation Drift punch, 1 mm tip, commercially available tool NR.167 Slide hammer kit commercially available tool NR.168 Multiple-tooth socket wrench insert M12 commercially available tool NR.31 Toothed segment special tool P 9538/1 Pressure piece special tool P 9609/1 spacer special tool P 9609/2

Scheme 343

Scheme 343: Required tools

1. Using the tool drift punch (1-mm tip) NR.167 , beat a small hole into a non-rubberised spot (rectangular window in the ring) of the sealing ring.

2. Screw in the extractor tip. Knock out the extractor tip using slide hammer kit NR.168 in conjunction with the sealing ring.

3. Clean the crankshaft flange The crankshaft flange must not be dirty or rusty. If necessary, clean it with brake cleaner and grind off any rust with a metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull).

CAUTIONDamage to the sealing ring!

> The sealing ring is provided on a sleeve.

> Never remove the sealing ring from the sleeve.

> Never deform or touch the sealing lips.

> Never oil the sealing lips.

Scheme 344

Scheme 344

1. Connect the sealing ring and sleeve to the tool.

Scheme 345

Scheme 345

2. Position the centring device on the crankshaft flange. Pay attention to the centring pin when doing this. Tighten the two fastening screws to 23 Nm (17 ftlb.).

Scheme 346

Scheme 346

3. Position the retracting bell and tighten the central screw (a/f 19) to 25 Nm (19 ftlb.).

4. Undo the retracting bell and screw it down.

5. Undo the two fastening screws on the centring device and remove the tool.

Designation Type Number Explanation toothed segment special tool P 201a toothed segment special tool P 9538/1

1. Remove transmission. Refer to 34 35 19 Removing and installing transmission - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne S MAN) .

2. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch. Refer to 30 50 19 Removing and installing clutch - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN, Cayenne S MAN) .

Scheme 347

Scheme 347: Removing flywheel

Scheme 348

Scheme 348

1. Block the flywheel. To do this, attach a suitable toothed segment toothed segment P 201a or toothed segment P 9538/1 to a screw hole in the crankcase so that at least one tooth is in contact with the starter teeth. Place a washer (approx. 5 mm) under the segment if necessary.

WARNINGDanger of injury if flywheel falls down! Danger of injury to feet.

> Wear protective gear (e. g. safety shoes, gloves).

> Work carefully (get another person to help you to install and remove the flywheel, if necessary).

Note. To make it easier to re-install a used flywheel, use a felt-tip pen to mark the crankshaft stub and flywheel before removing it. This makes it easier to install it again later. If the flywheel is stuck, loosen it by levering it at the sides with two screwdrivers and then remove it.

2. Remove the flywheel. To do this, loosen the ten fastening screws crosswise.

Note. Clean the crankshaft stub before installing the flywheel (remove rust). Use a special metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull) for this.

3. Remove the flywheel and clean the flange.

Installing flywheel

Note. Clean the crankshaft stub before installing the flywheel (remove rust). Use a special metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull) for this.

1. Clean the flange and fit the flywheel (align according to the previously applied markings if necessary). Screw on the ten fastening screws hand-tight.

2. Block the flywheel. To do this, attach a toothed segment P 201a or toothed segment P 9538/1 to a screw hole in the crankcase so that at least one tooth is in contact with the starter teeth. Place a washer (approx. 5 mm) under the segment if necessary.

3. Tighten the ten new fastening screws crosswise. --> Tightening torque: 44 ftlb. --> Torque angle: 90 ° --> Torque angle: 30 °

4. Remove toothed segment.

1. Install transmission. Refer to 34 35 19 Removing and installing transmission - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne S MAN) .

2. Install clutch pressure plate and clutch. Refer to 30 50 19 Removing and installing clutch - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN, Cayenne S MAN) .

Designation Type Number Explanation arm bracket VW-tool T10069

1. Remove transmission. Refer to 34 35 19 Removing and installing transmission - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN) .

2. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch. Refer to 30 50 19 Removing and installing clutch - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN, Cayenne S MAN) .

1 - Fastening screw for vibration damper

2 - Vibration damper

3 - Fastening screw M6

4 - Sealing ring

5 - Sealing flange

6 - Cylinder block

7 - Chain case lid, bottom

8 - Sealing ring

9 - Double-mass flywheel

10 - Fastening screw for double-mass flywheel, M10 x 20

11 - Fastening screw, M8 x 28

Removing double-mass flywheel (DMF)

CAUTIONDanger of cutting oneself on sharp metal edges!

> Wear suitable protective clothing (e. g. gloves).

Scheme 349

Scheme 349

1. Block the crankshaft. To do so, with the help of an assistant, hold the belt pulley in place at the front with the arm bracket T10069 --> Block the crankshaft.. see scheme 125

Note. Mark the installation positions of the components for the crankshaft with a felt-tipped pen. The DMF fastening screws are to be replaced.

2. Undo fastening screws and remove DMF.

Install double-mass flywheel (DMF)

CAUTIONDanger of cutting oneself on sharp metal edges!

> Wear suitable protective clothing (e. g. gloves).

Note. The DMF fastening screws are to be replaced. The DMF bores for the crankshaft only fit in one position

1. Position DMS in the installation position and screw in new fastening screws.

2. Block the crankshaft. To do so, with the aid of an assistant, hold the belt pulley in place at the front with the arm bracket T10069 --> Block the crankshaft.. (Scheme 347)

3. Tighten the fastening screws of the DMF diagonally --> Initial tightening: 44 ftlb. --> Torque angle: 90 ° .

1. Install clutch pressure plate and clutch. Refer to 30 50 19 Removing and installing clutch - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN, Cayenne S MAN) .

2. Install transmission. Refer to 34 35 19 Removing and installing transmission - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne MAN) .

Designation Type Number Explanation Arm bracket VW-tool T10069

Removing drive plate for torque converter

Note. Shims are fitted under or on the drive plate. These must be refitted again at the same place they were before the drive plate was removed. The shims are to be marked with a felt-tip pen before removal.

1. Block drive plate. For this, block the crankshaft at the belt pulley with the arm bracket Arm bracket T10069 .

2. Unscrew drive plate. To do this, loosen the diagonal fastening screws.

3. Remove drive plate.

4. If drive plate is tight, lever off with a screwdriver where necessary.

Installing drive plate for torque converter

Note. Clean the crankshaft flange before installing the drive plate (remove rust). Use a special metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull) for this.

1. Fit drive plate.

2. Block drive plate. For this, block the crankshaft at the belt pulley with the arm bracket Arm bracket T10069 .

3. Correctly fit the shims according to the removal marking.

4. Tighten the new fastening screws diagonally. --> Initial tightening: 44 ftlb.

> Torque angle: 90 °

> Torque angle: 30 °

Setting drive plate installation position

1. Secure drive plate to crankshaft flange using three old screws (approx. 30 Nm (22 ftlb.)).

Scheme 350

Scheme 350: Setting drive plate installation position

2. Measure dimension a --> Measuring tool and drive plate with a depth gauge. Nominal value: 21.00 mm to 23.00 mm. see scheme 131

3. If the measurement is less than the nominal value, remove drive plate and fit an adjusting shim of the required thickness between the crankshaft and drive plate.

Designation Type Number Explanation toothed segment special tool 95381 Internal puller commercially available tool NR.108 Striker VW-tool VW 771/1

Scheme 351

Scheme 351: Tools

Scheme 352

Scheme 352: Special tools
ItemDesignationSourceExplanation
A- (Scheme 349)Internal puller NR.108 , size approx. 14 - 20See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.4
B- (Scheme 349)Striker VW 771/1See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.3

1. Block drive plate. To do this, attach toothed segment 95381 to a screw hole in the crankcase so that at least one tooth is in contact with the starter teeth.

2. Unscrew drive plate. To do this, loosen the ten diagonally opposite fastening screws.

3. Remove drive plate.

4. If the drive plate is stuck, remove it using an internal puller and slide hammer.

Scheme 353

Scheme 353

5. To do this, insert internal puller into the middle of the drive plate and tighten.

Scheme 354

Scheme 354

6. Then screw on the slide hammer and knock off the drive plate.

Note. Clean the crankshaft stub before installing the drive plate (remove rust). Use a special metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull) for this.

1. Fit drive plate.

2. Block drive plate. To do this, attach toothed segment 95381 to a screw hole in the crankcase so that at least one tooth is in contact with the starter teeth.

3. Tighten the ten new fastening screws crosswise. --> Tightening torque: 44 ftlb. ; then --> Torque angle: 90 °

4. Remove toothed segment 95381 .

1. Loosen drive belt around the belt tensioner. For details, see > 137819 Removing and installing drive belt

Scheme 355

Scheme 355: Removing belt tensioner

1. Slacken off the belt tensioner. To do this, screw an M8 x 50 screw into the belt tensioner. Do not turn the belt tensioner as far as the stop. Only slacken the tensioner until the drive belt is loose.

Scheme 356

Scheme 356

2. Undo the three fastening screws on the belt tensioner and remove the component.

Installing belt tensioner

1. Screw a screw (M8 x 50) into the new belt tensioner until the belt tensioner is slightly tensioned.

2. Tighten the three fastening screws. --> Tightening torque: 19 ftlb.

1. Fit drive belt. For details, see > 137819 Removing and installing drive belt

Scheme 357

Scheme 357: Component overview

1 - Deflection roller, cylinder bank 1-4 --> Tightening torque: 32 (24 ftlb.) Nm +/-3 (2 ftlb.) Nm

2 - Tensioning roller

3 - Holder for deflection roller

4 - Fastening screw for damper --> Tightening torque: 32 (24 ftlb.) Nm +/-3 (2 ftlb.) Nm

5 - Support for tensioning roller --> Tightening torque: 32 (24 ftlb.) Nm +/-3 (2 ftlb.) Nm

6 - Shock absorber/tensioning element; bellows must be facing upwards. Observe code on the component.

7 - Deflection roller, cylinder bank 5-8 --> Tightening torque: 32 (24 ftlb.) Nm +/-3 (2 ftlb.) Nm

8 - Sheetmetal holder

Removing belt tensioner

1. Loosen the bottom fastening screw on the shock absorber.

2. Loosen the top fastening screw.

3. Remove components and repair appropriate components.

Scheme 358

Scheme 358: Removing belt tensioner

4. In order to remove the tensioning roller -figure shows deflector roller-, the cap must be levered off first. To do this, insert a small screwdriver underneath the cap and lever it off. (Scheme 354)

Note. When fitting the shock absorber/tensioning element, ensure that the label can be read from outside. The bellows must be facing upwards.

Scheme 359

Scheme 359: Installing belt tensioner

1. Install holder with tensioning element. Tighten the top fastening screw. --> Tightening torque: 24 ftlb.

2. Tighten the bottom fastening screw. --> Tightening torque: 24 ftlb.

Scheme 360

Scheme 360: Component overview

1- - Radial shaft seal (align using the plastic sleeve provided)

2- - Upper fastening screw

3- - Lower fastening screw

4- - Chain tensioner

Preliminary work for removing sealing ring for crankshaft sealing ring

1. Remove pulley (vibration balancer) of the crankshaft > 137619 Removing and reinstalling crankshaft belt pulley - "Removing" .

Scheme 361

Scheme 361: Removing sealing ring for crankshaft pulley

1. Undo the 4 fastening screws and remove the cover and sealing ring.

2. Clean the sealing surface of the sheetmetal cover.

Installing sealing ring for crankshaft pulley

WARNINGRisk of damaging the sealing ring due to assembly fault! Never pull the sealing ring from the plastic sleeve! Do not touch the sealing lip! Do not oil the sealing ring on the running surface!

> Sealing lip can be damaged!

Note. If the joint flange on the pulley or the surface on the crankshaft stub is slightly rusted, polish the rust off with a special polishing pad. If there is bad corrosion or deep grooves, replace these components.

Scheme 362

Scheme 362

1. Place seal with plastic sleeve across crankshaft.

Scheme 363

Scheme 363

2. Tighten the 2 upper fastening screws by hand --> Tightening torque: 7.5 ftlb. , and then the lower fastening screws --> Tightening torque: 7.5 ftlb. . Then tighten the screws in diagonally opposite sequence to the specified torque.

Scheme 364

Scheme 364

3. Pull off plastic sleeve evenly from sealing ring.

Subsequent work: installing sealing ring for crankshaft pulley

1. Install pulley (vibration balancer) of crankshaft > 137619 Removing and reinstalling crankshaft belt pulley - "Installing" .

Designation Type Number Explanation Sealing ring extractor VW-tool 3203 Assembly fixture VW-tool T10215

Note. The crankshaft sealing ring for the pulley was changed in model year 2005 as of engine number BFD20319. This crankshaft sealing ring is now permanently integrated in the joint flange and can no longer be changed as a separate item. If there is a leak, the complete joint flange must be replaced.

Scheme 365

Scheme 365: Tools and materials
ItemDesignation of toolExplanation
A- (Scheme 357)Sealing ring extractor 3203> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.3 "
B- (Scheme 357)Assembly fixture T10215> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.3 "
C- (Scheme 357)Assembly fixture T10215> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.3 "

Scheme 366

Scheme 366: Removing sealing ring for crankshaft belt pulley

1. Screw extraction tool apart and position on the crankshaft stub. Then tighten the fastening screw -A-. (Scheme 358)

Scheme 367

Scheme 367

2. Push on change-over ratchet. Press the tool firmly against the sealing ring while turning it in a clockwise direction until the extraction tool is pulled into the sealing ring.

Scheme 368

Scheme 368

3. Undo the screw -A- and turn the change-over ratchet in a clockwise direction -B- until the sealing ring falls out. (Scheme 360)

Removing sealing ring for crankshaft belt pulley

Note. The crankshaft sealing ring for the pulley was changed in model year 2005 as of engine number BFD20319. This crankshaft sealing ring is now permanently integrated in the joint flange and can no longer be changed as a separate item. If there is a leak, the complete joint flange must be replaced.

1. Remove joint flange behind the crankshaft pulley. To do this, remove the remaining fastening screws -A- (excluding the screws of the removed oil pan -B- ) and lever off with a screwdriver --> Levering off joint flange. (Scheme 361), (Scheme 362).

2. Remove any sealant residue from all sealing faces.

3. Clean crankshaft journal. Remove any oil residues from the crankshaft journal with a cloth. The crankshaft journal must not be dirty or rusty. If necessary, clean it with brake cleaner and grind off any rust with a metal-polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull).

Installing sealing ring for crankshaft belt pulley

CAUTIONDamage to the sealing ring! Loss of engine oil.

> Never deform or touch the sealing lips.

> Only install dry sealing ring.

1. Clean crankshaft and installation location and remove all traces of oil. Clean off patches of dirt or rust using a special polishing pad (e. g. Never Dull).

Scheme 369

Scheme 369

2. Position guide sleeve on the crankshaft stub.

Scheme 370

Scheme 370

3. Place sealing ring on the guide sleeve.

Scheme 371

Scheme 371

4. Push sealing ring down from the guide sleeve on to the crankshaft stub.

Scheme 372

Scheme 372

5. Position insertion tool and screw in using the old belt pulley fastening screw. Screw insertion tool in until it is supported on the lid. Then screw out the screw anti-clockwise.

6. Do not re-use the old belt pulley fastening screw.

Note. The crankshaft sealing ring for the pulley was changed in model year 2005 as of engine number BFD20319. This crankshaft sealing ring is now permanently integrated in the joint flange and can no longer be changed as a separate item. If there is a leak, the complete joint flange must be replaced.

1. The sealing faces must all be clean and free of grease.

2. Apply the sealant 000 043 300 39 according to the illustration -arrows- (version 11/2005, for current sealant, see Spare Parts Catalogue). Ensure that the bead of sealant is no thicker than approx. 2 to 3 mm and is run past the bores on the inside. Mount the joint flange within five minutes. (Scheme 367)

3. Push front of special tool (guide sleeve) assembly fixture T10215 -1- onto the crankshaft journal -3-. Slide joint flange -2- over the guide sleeve and into the installation position. (Scheme 368)

4. Screw down joint flange. --> Tightening torque: 10 (7.5 ftlb.) Nm

Scheme 373

Scheme 373: Subsequent work

Note. The crankshaft sealing ring for the pulley was changed in model year 2005 as of engine number BFD20319. This crankshaft sealing ring is now permanently integrated in the joint flange and can no longer be changed as a separate item. If there is a leak, the complete joint flange must be replaced.

Designation Type Number Explanation arm bracket special tool 96790 Mechanical angle disc for torque angle threaded joint commercially available tool NR.88-1 socket wrench insert special tool P 9714

Scheme 374

Scheme 374: Tools

Preliminary work for removing crankshaft pulley

Scheme 375

Scheme 375: Removing crankshaft pulley

1. Position arm bracket 96790 in the pulley and turn it until it locks.

CAUTIONMaterial damage! If the tool slips or if the tool is faulty, the wings or the cooling fan can be damaged as a result of excessive forces!

> Only use an appropriately strong tool (e. g. 3/4 inch)

> Ensuring that the tool is seated correctly

> Never use the special wrench socket wrench insert P 9714 , for loosening or tightening

> Working with a second worker

Scheme 376

Scheme 376

2. Position a large torque wrench and loosen the central screw. Do not use the screw again.

Scheme 377

Scheme 377

3. Remove the central screw and pull the pulley down and forward.

Scheme 378

Scheme 378: Installing crankshaft pulley

Note. A key is inserted into the crankshaft. When fitting the pulley, ensure that the key lies in the groove in the pulley. The key must not fall into the engine. The pulley and crankshaft stub must be cleaned.

1. Position the pulley on the crankshaft stub. Then press the pulley slightly in the direction of the engine, while at the same time twisting it until it slips definitively in the direction of the timing-case cover. When doing so, pay attention to the key.

2. Mount the new central screw hand tight into the crankshaft.

CAUTIONMaterial damage! If the tool slips or if the tool is faulty, the wings or the cooling fan can be damaged as a result of excessive forces!

> Only use an appropriately strong tool (e. g. 3/4 inch)

> Ensuring that the tool is seated correctly

> Never use the special wrench socket wrench insert P 9714 , for loosening or tightening

> Working with a second worker

3. Position arm bracket 96790 in the pulley and turn it until it locks. Have a second worker operate the arm bracket.

Scheme 379

Scheme 379
CAUTIONMaterial damage! If the tool slips or if the tool is faulty, the wings or the cooling fan can be damaged as a result of excessive forces!

> Only use an appropriately strong tool (e. g. 3/4 inch)

> Ensuring that the tool is seated correctly

> Never use the special wrench socket wrench insert P 9714 , for loosening or tightening

> Working with a second worker

4. Tighten central screw. --> Initial tightening: 20 (15 ftlb.) Nm , then --> Initial tightening: 50 (37 ftlb.) Nm , then --> Initial tightening: 250 (185 ftlb.) Nm

Scheme 380

Scheme 380

5. Push on torque angle disc Mechanical angle disc for torque angle threaded joint NR.88-1 . Attach a magnetic foot to a metal part and set the scale by turning the pointer to 0. As an alternative to the torque angle disc, marks can be made on the vibration balancer (crankshaft pulley) and the central screw using a waterproof pen. A continuous line between the central screw and vibration balancer represents the starting point, another line only on the vibration balancer at an angular distance of 90° shows the torque angle target.

CAUTIONMaterial damage! If the tool slips or if the tool is faulty, the wings or the cooling fan can be damaged as a result of excessive forces!

> Only use an appropriately strong tool (e. g. 3/4 inch)

> Ensuring that the tool is seated correctly

> Never use the special wrench socket wrench insert P 9714 , for loosening or tightening

> Working with a second worker

6. Tighten central screw to torque angle. --> Torque angle - final tightening: 90 °

Scheme 381

Scheme 381: Touching up installing the crankshaft pulley

Designation Type Number Explanation Torque angle torque key commercially available tool NR.88 mechanical angle disc for torque-angle threaded joints commercially available tool NR.88-1 Arm bracket VW-tool T10069

Scheme 382

Scheme 382: Preliminary work

Scheme 383

Scheme 383

3. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk and remove drive belt around the crankshaft belt pulley. For details see > 137819 Removing and installing drive belt - section on "Removing" .

Scheme 384

Scheme 384: Special tools required
ItemDesignationSourceExplanation
A- (Scheme 378)Arm bracket T10069> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.4 "Required to loosen the pulley fastening.
B- (Scheme 378)Torque angle torque key NR.88> "See Workshop Equipment Manual, Chapter 2.2.2 "For torque-angle-controlled tightening of large screws (pulley, suspension subframe)

Removing crankshaft belt pulley

CAUTIONRisk of damage! If the tool slips or if the tool is faulty, the wings can be damaged as a result of excessive force.

> Ensure that the tool is seated correctly.

1. Block the crankshaft belt pulley using an arm bracket and undo the central screw (a/f 27). Do not use the screw again.

2. Remove the central screw and pull the pulley down and forward.

Installing crankshaft belt pulley

Note. A key is inserted into the crankshaft. When fitting the belt pulley, ensure that the key slots into the groove in the belt pulley. The key must not fall into the engine.

Scheme 385

Scheme 385: Installing crankshaft belt pulley

1. Position the belt pulley on the crankshaft stub. Then press the belt pulley slightly in the direction of the engine, while at the same time twisting it until it slips definitively in the direction of the timing case cover. When doing so, pay attention to the key. --> Key (Scheme 379)

Scheme 386

Scheme 386

2. Screw the new central screw into the crankshaft.

3. Block the crankshaft belt pulley using an arm bracket and tighten the central screw (a/f 27) to the specified tightening torque. For torque-angle screws, use the torque angle torque key NR.88 (or a mechanical angle disc for torque-angle threaded joints NR.88-1 ). Attach the magnetic foot to a metal part and set the scale by turning the pointer to 0. --> Initial tightening: 74 ftlb. --> Final tightening: 90 °

Scheme 387

Scheme 387: Subsequent work

Information

CAUTIONRisk of damage to drive belt! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove drive belt when it is hot.

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

WARNINGDanger of injury! The vehicle fans can continue running or start up automatically.

> The power supply to the radiator fans or the battery must be disconnected before starting to work on the radiator or fans (remove fuse, refer to 97 84 IN Fuse carrier - as of MY 2003 (All Models) ). Refer to 90 IN Work instructions after disconnecting the battery - as of MY 2003 (All Models Except Cayenne S TIO Titan) .

Scheme 388

Scheme 388

Damage symptoms

Note. The following table indicates damage which necessitates replacement.

Scheme 389

Scheme 389: Damage symptoms
ItemType of damageExplanation
A- see scheme 187Slight crack in a ribDrive belt is OK
B- see scheme 187Hairline crack that runs across the entire belt width, or the butt seam is damagedReplace drive belt
C- see scheme 187Crack running down to half of rib heightDrive belt must be replaced if there is more than one crack running down to half of rib height
D- see scheme 187Crack running to base of ribReplace drive belt
E- see scheme 187Crack running to traction cord, or sides so worn that the traction cord becomes visibleReplace drive belt
F- see scheme 187Rib detachmentReplace drive belt
G- see scheme 187Rib fractureReplace drive belt

Checking drive belt

Note. If spark plugs must be changed in the course of maintenance operations, the drive belt should be checked when the spark plugs are removed. The engine can then be cranked easier.

Scheme 390

Scheme 390: Checking drive belt

1. Using chalk, mark the drive belt in the area around the tensioning roller.

2. Turn engine at the vibration damper in the direction of movement using a socket wrench (a/f 27) until the chalk mark is at the same place again. While turning at the crankshaft, check the belt at the deflection rollers for signs of damage.

CAUTIONRisk of damage! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove the drive belt when it is hot - let the engine cool down!

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

Note. If spark plugs must be changed in the course of maintenance operations, the drive belt should be checked when the spark plugs are removed. The engine can then be cranked easier.

1. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

2. Turn engine at the vibration damper in the direction of movement using a socket wrench (a/f 19) until the chalk mark is at the same place again. While turning at the crankshaft, check the belt at the deflection rollers for signs of damage.

Note. The following table indicates damage which necessitates replacement.

ItemType of damageExplanation
A- (Scheme 386)Slight crack in a ribDrive belt is OK
B- (Scheme 386)Hairline crack that runs across the entire belt width, or the butt seam is damagedReplace drive belt
C- (Scheme 386)Crack running down to half of rib heightDrive belt must be replaced if there is more than one crack running down to half of rib height
D- (Scheme 386)Crack running to base of ribReplace drive belt
E- (Scheme 386)Crack running to traction cord, or sides so worn that the traction cord becomes visibleReplace drive belt
F- (Scheme 386)Rib detachmentReplace drive belt
G- (Scheme 386)Rib fractureReplace drive belt

Removing drive belt

CAUTIONRisk of damage! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove the drive belt when it is hot - let the engine cool down!

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

Note. If the drive belt is to be re-used, mark the rolling direction with chalk so that the belt can be re-installed later in the same rolling direction.

Scheme 391

Scheme 391

2. Pull the design cover vertically upwards and off.

4. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

5. Slacken off the belt tensioner. To do this, screw an M8 x 50 screw into the belt tensioner. Do not turn the belt tensioner as far as the stop; only slacken the tensioner until the drive belt is loose.

6. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys.

Installing drive belt

Note. The figure shows the complete belt threading course. The pulleys are numbered according to the sequence of fitting.

Scheme 392

Scheme 392: Installing drive belt

1. Place drive belt around the crankshaft gearwheel and bundle in left direction of travel.

Scheme 393

Scheme 393

2. Guide the top end of the belt around the coolant pump. Then, position the belt vertically (turn by 90°) and guide in behind the belt tensioner.

Scheme 394

Scheme 394

3. Guide the lower end of the belt on the crankshaft gearwheel around the air-conditioning compressor and then around the hydraulic pump. Push the belt upwards from there.

Scheme 395

Scheme 395

4. Guide the drive belt over the drive roller of the generator and then pull a loop down around the deflection roller and lay into position.

5. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly.

Scheme 396

Scheme 396

7. Fit the design cover.

CAUTIONRisk of damage to drive belt! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove drive belt when it is hot.

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

WARNINGDanger of injury! The vehicle fans can continue running or start up automatically.

> The power supply to the radiator fans or the battery must be disconnected before starting to work on the radiator or fans (remove fuse, refer to 97 84 IN Fuse carrier - as of MY 2003 (All Models) ). Refer to 90 IN Work instructions after disconnecting the battery - as of MY 2003 (All Models Except Cayenne S TIO Titan) .

Removing drive belt - Cayenne S

1. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

Scheme 397

Scheme 397: Removing drive belt - Cayenne S

2. Relieve and remove drive belt. To do this, use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the tensioning roller. Relieve the belt tensioner slowly.

Scheme 398

Scheme 398

3. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys.

Installing drive belt - Cayenne S

Note. Figure --> Drive belt threading course, shows the complete belt threading course. The pulleys are numbered according to the sequence of fitting. (Scheme 392)

Scheme 399

Scheme 399: Installing drive belt - Cayenne S

1. Make the belt into a loop and place over the crankshaft belt pulley behind the dipstick.

Scheme 400

Scheme 400

2. Place the top part of the belt loop over the coolant pump pulley -1- .

Scheme 401

Scheme 401

3. Place the lower part of the belt loop around the crankshaft belt pulley at the bottom -2- .

Scheme 402

Scheme 402

4. Guide the belt section from the coolant pump around the deflector wheel -3- on cylinder bank 5 - 8. (Scheme 395)

Scheme 403

Scheme 403

5. Then guide the section of the belt around the air-conditioning compressor belt pulley -4- at the bottom.

Scheme 404

Scheme 404

6. Lay a loop around the power-steering pump -5-. see scheme 209

Scheme 405

Scheme 405

7. Lay the loose end of the drive belt from the coolant pump downwards and around the generator pulley -6- and deflector roller -7- of cylinder bank 1 - 4. (Scheme 397)

8. Gather the belt section between the deflection roller of cylinder bank 1 - 4 and the crankshaft pulley to form a loop and guide it upwards to the tensioning roller -8-. Use a wrench (a/f 30) to turn the tensioning roller -8- in a clockwise direction at the hexagon and put on the drive belt. Slowly relieve the tensioning roller. (Scheme 399)

9. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly on the pulleys.

CAUTIONRisk of damage to drive belt! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove drive belt when it is hot.

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

WARNINGDanger of injury! The vehicle fans can continue running or start up automatically.

> The power supply to the radiator fans or the battery must be disconnected before starting to work on the radiator or fans (remove fuse, refer to 97 84 IN Fuse carrier - as of MY 2003 (All Models) ). Refer to 90 IN WORK INSTRUCTIONS AFTER DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY - AS OF MY 2003 (ALL MODELS EXCEPT CAYENNE S TIO TITAN) .

1. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

2. Relieve and remove drive belt. To do this, use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the tensioning roller. Relieve the belt tensioner slowly.

3. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys.

Note. Figure --> Drive belt threading course, shows the complete belt threading course. The pulleys are numbered according to the sequence of fitting. (Scheme 402)

1. Make the belt into a loop and place over the crankshaft belt pulley behind the dipstick.

2. Place the top part of the belt loop over the coolant pump pulley -1- .

3. Place the lower part of the belt loop around the crankshaft belt pulley at the bottom -2- .

4. Guide the belt section from the coolant pump around the deflector wheel -3- on cylinder bank 5 - 8. see scheme 220

5. Then guide the section of the belt around the air-conditioning compressor belt pulley -4- at the bottom.

6. Lay a loop around the power-steering pump -5-. see scheme 222

7. Lay the loose end of the drive belt from the coolant pump downwards and around the generator pulley -6- and deflector roller -7- of cylinder bank 1 - 4. see scheme 223

8. Gather the belt section between the deflection roller of cylinder bank 1 - 4 and the crankshaft pulley to form a loop and guide it upwards to the tensioning roller -8-. Use a wrench (a/f 30) to turn the tensioning roller -8- in a clockwise direction at the hexagon and put on the drive belt. Slowly relieve the tensioning roller. see scheme 225

9. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly on the pulleys.

Scheme 406

Scheme 406: Removing drive belt - Cayenne Turbo

1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation line -1- and the control line -2- of the bypass valves at the disconnection points under the left deflection roller. see scheme 226

Scheme 407

Scheme 407

2. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

3. Relieve and remove drive belt. To do this, use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the tensioning roller. Then relieve the belt tensioner slowly.

4. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys.

Installing drive belt - Cayenne Turbo

Note. Figure --> Drive belt threading course, shows the complete belt threading course. The pulleys are numbered according to the sequence of fitting. (Scheme 402)

1. Make the belt into a loop and place over the crankshaft belt pulley behind the dipstick.

2. Place the top part of the belt loop over the coolant pump pulley -1-. see scheme 232

3. Place the lower part of the belt loop around the crankshaft belt pulley at the bottom -2-. see scheme 233

4. Guide the belt section from the coolant pump around the deflector wheel -3- on cylinder bank 5 - 8. see scheme 234

5. Then guide the section of the belt around the air conditioning compressor belt pulley -4- at the bottom. (Scheme 406)

6. Then lay a loop around the power pump -5-. (Scheme 407)

7. Lay the loose end of the drive belt from the coolant pump downwards and around the generator pulley -6- and deflector roller -7- of cylinder bank 1 - 4. see scheme 237

8. Gather the belt section between the deflector roller of cylinder bank 1 - 4 and the crankshaft pulley to form a loop and guide it upwards to the tensioning roller -8-. Use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the tensioning roller -8- clockwise at the hexagon and put on the drive belt. Slowly relieve the tensioning roller. see scheme 239

9. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly on the pulleys.

10. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation line -1- and the control line -2- of the bypass valves at the disconnection points under the left deflection roller. see scheme 240

CAUTIONRisk of damage to drive belt! If the drive belt is removed when it is hot, it may become deformed and damaged.

> Never remove drive belt when it is hot.

CAUTIONConsequential damage of broken pulley belt! Due to a broken drive belt during driving, surrounding components (panelling, electric cables etc.) can be damaged by thrashing or flying belt parts. Parts of the drive belt can jam behind deflection rollers or vibration balancers and damage surfaces and sealing rings there. In particular, the sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer can become leaky as a result of a broken belt.

> Following a belt breakage the surrounding components and the interior of the engine compartment must be inspected for damage, and if necessary damaged parts (sealing ring of the crankshaft vibration balancer, deflection rollers, panelling, lines, electric cables etc.) repaired or replaced.

> The reason for the belt breakage must be established. Check deflection rollers or crankshaft vibration balancers for prior damage.

WARNINGDanger of injury! The vehicle fans can continue running or start up automatically.

> The power supply to the radiator fans or the battery must be disconnected before starting to work on the radiator or fans (remove fuse, refer to 97 84 IN Fuse carrier - as of MY 2003 (All Models) ). Refer to 90 IN Work instructions after disconnecting the battery - as of MY 2003 (All Models Except Cayenne S TIO Titan) .

Removing drive belt - Cayenne Turbo

1. Disconnect the positive crankcase ventilation line -1- and the control line -2- of the bypass valves at the disconnection points under the left deflection roller. see scheme 242

2. Mark the rolling direction of the drive belt with chalk.

3. Relieve and remove drive belt. To do this, use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the belt tensioner clockwise and remove the drive belt from the tensioning roller. Then relieve the belt tensioner slowly.

4. Remove the drive belt from all pulleys.

Note. Figure --> Drive belt threading course, shows the complete belt threading course. The pulleys are numbered according to the sequence of fitting. see scheme 246

1. Make the belt into a loop and place over the crankshaft belt pulley behind the dipstick.

2. Place the top part of the belt loop over the coolant pump pulley -1-. see scheme 248

3. Place the lower part of the belt loop around the crankshaft belt pulley at the bottom -2-. see scheme 249

4. Guide the belt section from the coolant pump around the deflector wheel -3- on cylinder bank 5 - 8. see scheme 250

5. Then guide the section of the belt around the air conditioning compressor belt pulley -4- at the bottom. see scheme 251

6. Then lay a loop around the power pump -5-. see scheme 252

7. Lay the loose end of the drive belt from the coolant pump downwards and around the generator pulley -6- and deflector roller -7- of cylinder bank 1 - 4. see scheme 253

8. Gather the belt section between the deflector roller of cylinder bank 1 - 4 and the crankshaft pulley to form a loop and guide it upwards to the tensioning roller -8-. Use an open-ended wrench (a/f 30) to turn the tensioning roller -8- clockwise at the hexagon and put on the drive belt. Slowly relieve the tensioning roller. see scheme 255

9. Check that the drive belt is positioned correctly on the pulleys.

10. Connect the positive crankcase ventilation line -1- and the control line -2- of the bypass valves at the disconnection points under the left deflection roller. see scheme 256

Poses Online

See also:
10 01 19 Removing and installing V8 4.5 l engine - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne S TIP, Cayenne S MAN, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S, Cayenne S TIO Titan)
15 70 21 Removing cylinder head - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne S TIP, Cayenne S MAN, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S, Cayenne S TIO Titan)
17 50 21 Removing oil pan - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne S TIP, Cayenne S MAN, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S, Cayenne S TIO Titan)
37 35 19 Removing and installing transmission - as of MY 2003 (Cayenne TIP)
50 38 09 Detaching and fastening lock mount (service position) - as of MY 2003 (All Models)
24 35 19 Removing and installing cowl for throttle housing (intake manifold) - as of MY 2004 (Cayenne TIP, Cayenne MAN)
97 84 IN Fuse carrier - as of MY 2003 (All Models)
90 IN Work instructions after disconnecting the battery - as of MY 2003 (All Models Except Cayenne S TIO Titan)
70 02 19 Removing and installing front cover (engine compartment) - as of MY 2003 (All Models)
> 131019 Removing and installing pistons - "Removing"