Engine Mechanical - 1.8L (Lnk): Other Pontiac Vibe I рестайлинг

Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants

Sealers, Adhesives, and Lubricants

Scheme 31

Scheme 32

Scheme 33

Scheme 34

Scheme 35

Scheme 36

Intermittent

Test the vehicle under the same conditions that the customer reported in order to verify the system is operating properly.

Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire without Internal Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire with Abnormal Internal Lower Engine Noises

Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption

Base Engine Misfire with Coolant Consumption

Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption

Base Engine Misfire with Excessive Oil Consumption

Tools Required

J 35667-A Cylinder Head Leakdown Tester. See Special Tools .

1. Disconnect the battery ground negative cable.
2. Remove the spark plugs. Refer to «Spark Plug Replacement»(ref-200095-S05161826312005102000000) in Engine Controls.
3. Rotate the crankshaft to place the piston in the cylinder being tested at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
4. Install the J 35667, or equivalent.
5. Apply shop air pressure to the J 35667 and adjust according to the manufacturers instructions.
6. Record the cylinder leakage value. Cylinder leakage that exceeds 25 percent is considered excessive and may require component service. In excessive leakage situations, inspect for the following conditions: Air leakage sounds at the throttle body or air inlet hose that may indicate a worn or burnt intake valve or a broken valve spring. Air leakage sounds at the exhaust system tailpipe that may indicate a worn or burnt exhaust valve or a broken valve spring. Air leakage sounds from the crankcase, oil level indicator tube, or oil fill tube that may indicate worn piston rings, a damaged piston, a worn or scored cylinder bore, a damaged engine block or a damaged cylinder head. Air bubbles in the cooling system may indicate a damaged cylinder head or a damaged cylinder head gasket.
7. Perform the leakage test on the remaining cylinders and record the values.

Finding the Leak

1. Determine if the fluid is one of the following types: Engine oil Automatic transmission fluid Power steering fluid
2. Use the following steps in order to determine the location of the fluid leak: Run the vehicle at normal operating temperature. Park the vehicle over a large sheet of paper. After several minutes, observe the drops of fluid that fall on the paper. Use the drops on the paper in order to determine the location of the leak.
3. Visually inspect around the suspected component. Inspect around the gasket mating surfaces for leaks. Use a mirror in order to find leaks in areas that are difficult to reach.
4. If you cannot locate the leak, use one of the following items in order to clean the suspected area: A degreaser Steam A spray solvent
5. Thoroughly dry the area.
6. Operate the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds.
7. Visually inspect the suspected component. If you still cannot locate the leak, use the powder method or the black light and dye method in order to locate the leak.

Powder Method

Perform the following steps in order to diagnose the leak

1. Clean the suspected area.
2. Apply an aerosol-type powder (such as foot powder) to the suspected area.
3. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions.
4. Visually inspect the suspected component. Trace the leak path over the white powder surface to the source.

Black Light and Dye Method

Tools Required

1. J 28428-E High Intensity Black Light
2. J 28431-6 Fluorescent Oil Additive

1. Pour the specified amount of J 28431-6 into the leaking component. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for the proper amount of oil additive.
2. Operate the vehicle under normal operating conditions.
3. Shine the J 28428-E onto the suspected area. The J 28431-6 fluid will appear as a yellow path leading to the source of the oil leak.

Repairing the Leak

After you find the source of the leak, determine the cause of the leak. This action will enable you to properly repair the faulty component.

Gaskets

Inspect for a bent sealing flange. Repair the surface if the sealing flange is bent. A new gasket will not repair the leak.

Inspect for the following conditions before repairing a leak

1. An incorrect fluid level
2. High pressure
3. Malfunctions in the crankcase ventilation system
4. Improperly tightened fasteners
5. Dirty or damaged threads on the fasteners
6. Warped flanges or sealing surfaces
7. Scratches, burrs or other damage to the sealing surface
8. A damaged or worn gasket
9. Cracking or porosity of the component
10. An improper sealant

Seals

Inspect for the following conditions before repairing a leak

1. An incorrect fluid level
2. High pressure
3. Malfunctions in the crankcase ventilation system
4. Any of the following conditions on the seal bore: Scratches Burrs Nicks
5. A damaged or worn seal
6. Improper installation
7. A cracked component
8. Inspect the shaft surface for the following conditions: Scratches Nicks Damage
9. A loose or worn bearing

Engine Support Fixture

Tools Required

1. J 28467-B Universal Engine Support Fixture. See «Special Tools»(ref-200079-S33867661992005102000000) .
2. J 28467-89 Engine Support Fixture Adapter
3. J 28467-VIBE Engine Support Fixture Adapter. See «Special Tools»(ref-200079-S33867661992005102000000) .

Valve Shim Selection

1. Determine the valve(s) clearances that were out of specifications.
2. Remove the shim(s) from the out of specification valves.
3. Use a J 26900-13 and J 8001 to measure the thickness of the removed shim.
4. After measuring the shim, determine the size of the replaced shim according to the formula as follows: A = Thickness of used shim B = Measured valve clearance C = Thickness of new shim Intake Valve: C = A + (B - 0.13 mm (0.0051 in)) x 1.5 Exhaust Valve: C = A + (B - 0.27 mm (0.0106 in)) x 1.5 Shims are available in 41 size increments of 0.020 mm (0.0008 in), from 2.000 mm (0.0787 in) to 2.800 mm (0.1102 in).
5. After selecting the proper shim, re-measure the valve clearance.
6. Install the cylinder head cover. Refer to the installation instructions in «Cylinder Head Cover Replacement»(ref-200079-S15953691062005102000000) .

J 8614-01 Pinion Flange Holder. See Special Tools .

J 8614-01 Pinion Flange Holder. See Special Tools .

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

J 8614-01 Pinion Flange Holder. See Special Tools .

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt using J 8614-01 to prevent crankshaft rotation when loosening the bolt.
2. Remove the crankshaft pulley.

J 8087 Cylinder Bore Gage. See Special Tools .

1. Clean the sealing material from the gasket mating surfaces.
2. Boil the engine block in caustic solution.
3. Flush the engine block with clean water or steam. CAUTION: Refer to «Safety Glasses Caution»(ref-200052-S28231531582005102000000) in Cautions and Notices.
4. Clean the oil passages.
5. Clean the blind holes.
6. Spray the cylinder bores and the machined surfaces with engine oil.
7. Inspect the threaded holes. Clean the threaded holes with a rifle brush. Refer to «Thread Repair»(ref-200079-S11419586562005102000000) .
8. Use a straight edge and a feeler gage to check the deck surface for flatness. Carefully machine minor irregularities. Replace the block if warpage exceeds 0.05 mm (0.0020 in).
9. Inspect the lower crankcase rail for nicks. Inspect the front cover attaching area for nicks. Use a flat mill file to remove any nicks.
10. Inspect the cylinder block for any cracks.
11. Visually inspect the cylinder bores for the following items: Excessive wear Excessive ridging
12. Use the J 8087 to inspect the cylinder bores. Inspect for the following items: Taper: maximum = 0.10 mm (0.0039 in) Runout: maximum = 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)
13. Leave sufficient material to allow honing when fitting the piston.

Cylinder Honing

1. When honing the cylinder bores, follow the manufacturer's recommendations for equipment use, cleaning, and lubrication. Use only clean sharp stones of the proper grade for the amount of material to be removed. Dull, dirty stones cut unevenly and generate excessive heat DO NOT hone to a final grade with a coarse or medium-grade stone. Leave sufficient metal so that all the stone marks will be removed with the fine grade stones. Perform the final honing with a fine-grade stone and hone the cylinder bore in a cross hatch pattern at 45-65 degrees to obtain the proper clearance.
2. During the honing operation, thoroughly check the cylinder bore. Repeatedly check the cylinder bore fit with the selected piston. All measurements of the piston or cylinder bore should be made with the components at normal room temperature.
3. When honing to eliminate taper in the cylinder bore, use full strokes the complete length of the cylinder bore. Repeatedly check the measurement at the top, the middle, and the bottom of the cylinder bore. The finish marks should be clean but not sharp. The finish marks should be free from imbedded particles or torn or folded metal.
4. By measuring the selected piston at the sizing point and then by adding the average of the clearance specification, the final cylinder bore honing dimension required can be determined.
5. When finished, the reconditioned cylinder bores should have less than or meet the specified out-of-round and taper requirements.
6. After the final honing and before the piston is checked for fit, clean the cylinder bore with hot water and detergent. Scrub the cylinder bores with a stiff bristle brush. Rinse the cylinder bores thoroughly with clean hot water. Dry the cylinder bores with a clean rag. Do not allow any abrasive material to remain in the cylinder bores. Abrasive material may cause premature wear of the new piston rings and the cylinder bores. Abrasive material will contaminate the engine oil and may cause premature wear of the bearings.
7. Perform final measurements of the piston and the cylinder bore.
8. Permanently mark the top of the piston for the specified cylinder to which it has been fitted.
9. Apply clean engine oil to each cylinder bore in order to prevent rusting.

Boring Procedure

1. Before starting the honing or reboring operation, measure all the new pistons with the micrometer contacting at points exactly 90 degrees from the piston pin centerline.
2. File the top of the cylinder block in order to remove any dirt or burrs before using any type of boring bar.
3. Follow the instructions furnished by the manufacturer regarding use of the boring equipment.
4. When reboring the cylinders, make sure all the crankshaft bearing caps are installed in the original position and direction.
5. Tighten the crankshaft bearing caps to the proper torque specifications in order to avoid distortion of the cylinder bores in the final assembly.
6. When making the final cut with the boring bar, leave 0.03 mm (0.001 in) on the cylinder bore diameter for finish honing. This gives the required position to the cylinder clearance specifications. Carefully perform the honing and boring operation in order to maintain the specified clearances between the pistons, the piston rings, and the cylinder bores.

J 7872 Magnetic Base Dial Indicator Set. See Special Tools .

1. Clean the crankshaft with solvent.
2. Thoroughly clean all oil passages and inspect for restrictions or burrs.
3. Dry the crankshaft with compressed air.
4. Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft for damage.
5. Inspect the crankshaft journals for wear (1). Journals should be smooth with no signs of scoring, wear, or damage.
6. Inspect the crankshaft journals for grooves or scoring (2).
7. Inspect the crankshaft journals for scratches or wear (3).
8. Inspect the crankshaft journals for pitting or imbedded bearing material (4).
9. Measure the crankshaft journals for out-of-round.
10. Measure the crankshaft journals for taper.
11. Measure the crankshaft runout. Using wooden V blocks, support the crankshaft on the front and rear journals.
12. Use the J 7872 in order to measure the crankshaft runout at the front and rear intermediate journals.
13. Use the J 7872 in order to measure the runout of the crankshaft rear flange.
14. Replace or repair the crankshaft if the measurements are not within specifications.
15. Inspect crankshaft bearings for craters or pockets. Flattened sections on the bearing halves also indicate fatigue.
16. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for excessive scoring or discoloration.
17. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for dirt or debris imbedded into the bearing material.
18. Inspect the crankshaft bearings for improper seating indicated by bright, polished sections of the bearing. If the lower half of the bearing is worn or damaged, both upper and lower halves should be replaced. Generally, if the lower half is suitable for use, the upper half should also be suitable for use.

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

1. The crankshaft bearings are of the precision insert type. The crankshaft bearings are available in standard and various undersizes.
2. Inspect the crankshaft main bearing bores using the following procedure: Tighten the bearing cap to specification. Measure the bearing bore for taper and out-of-round. No taper or out-of-round should exist.
3. Install the original crankshaft main bearing inserts on to the cylinder block and the lower crankcase assembly.
4. Carefully place the crankshaft on to the bearing inserts in the cylinder block.
5. Lay a piece of gaging plastic across each crankshaft main journal.
6. Carefully place the lower crankcase assembly on to the cylinder block.
7. Install the ten main bearing cap bolts. Tighten: Tighten the crankshaft main bearing cap bolts in the sequence shown, use three progressive steps to obtain 44 N.m (32 lb ft), then use a J 36660-A and tighten the main bearing cap bolts an additional 90 degrees. See «Special Tools»(ref-200079-S33867661992005102000000) .
8. After reaching the proper torque, remove the ten crankshaft main bearing cap bolts.
9. Carefully remove the lower crankcase assembly from the cylinder block.
10. Measure the gaging plastic at its widest point. Standard Oil Clearance: 0.016-0.032 mm (0.0006-0.0013 in) Maximum Oil Clearance: 0.080 mm (0.0031 in)
11. If using a standard bearing, replace it with one having the same number. If the number of the bearing cannot be determined, select the correct bearing by determining the numbers imprinted on the cylinder block (1-5).
12. If using a standard bearing, replace it with one having the same number. If the number of the bearing cannot be determined, select the correct bearing by determining the numbers imprinted on the crankshaft (1-5). Refer to the Main Bearing Selection Formula, the Main Bearing Selection Chart and the Crankshaft Main Bearing Table in «Engine Mechanical Specifications»(ref-200078-S09702138502005102000000) .

Connecting Rod Measurement

1. Clean the connecting rods in solvent and dry with compressed air.
2. Inspect the connecting rods for the following: Signs of being twisted, bent, nicked, or cracked Scratches or abrasion on the rod bearing seating surface
3. If the connecting rod bores contain minor scratches or abrasions, clean the bores in a circular direction with a light emery paper. DO NOT scrape the rod or rod cap.
4. Measure the piston pin to connecting rod bore using the following procedure: Using an outside micrometer, take 2 measurements of the piston pin in the area of the connecting rod contact. Using an inside micrometer, measure the connecting rod piston pin bore. Subtract the piston pin diameter from the piston pin bore diameter. The clearance should not be more than 0.05 mm (0.0020 in).
5. If there is excessive clearance, replace the piston pin.
6. If there is still excessive clearance, replace the connecting rod bushing.

Piston Measurement

1. Clean the piston skirts and the pins with a cleaning solvent. DO NOT wire brush any part of the piston.
2. Clean the piston ring grooves with a groove cleaner. Make sure oil ring holes and slots are clean.
3. Inspect the pistons for the following conditions: Cracked ring lands, skirts, or pin bosses Ring grooves for nicks, burrs that may cause binding Warped or worn ring lands Eroded areas at the top of the piston (1) Scuffed or damaged skirts (2) Worn piston pin bores (3)
4. Replace pistons that show any signs or damage or excessive wear.
5. Measure the piston pin bore to piston pin clearances using the following procedure: Piston pin bores and pins must be free of varnish or scuffing. If the clearance is excessive, determine which component is out of specification.
6. Measure the piston ring end gap using the following procedure: Place the piston ring in the area of the bore where the piston ring will travel (approximately 110 mm (4 in) down from the deck surface). Be sure the ring is square with the cylinder bore by positioning the ring with the piston head.
7. Measure the end gap of the piston ring with feeler gages. Compare the measurements with those provided below: The top compression ring end gap should be 0.25-0.35 mm (0.0098-0.0138 in). The second compression ring end gap should be 0.35-0.50 mm (0.0138-0.0197 in). The oil ring end gap should be 0.15-0.40 mm (0.0059-0.0157 in).
8. Measure the piston ring side clearance using the following procedure: Roll the top two piston rings entirely around the piston ring groove. If any binding is caused by the ring groove, dress the groove with a fine file. If any binding is caused by a distorted piston ring, replace the ring. With the piston ring on the piston, use feeler gages to check clearance at multiple locations. The clearance between the surface of the top piston rings and the ring land should be no greater than 0.070 mm (0.0028 in). If the clearance is greater than specifications, replace the piston rings. If the new ring does not reduce the top ring side clearance to 0.070 mm (0.0028 in) or less, install a new piston.
9. Measure piston width using the following procedure: Using an outside micrometer, measure the width of the piston 25.6 mm (1.007 in) below the top of the piston at the thrust surface perpendicular to the centerline of the piston pin. Compare the measurement of the piston to its original cylinder by subtracting the piston width from the cylinder diameter. The proper clearance specification for the piston is 0.007-0.038 mm (0.0003-0.0015 in).
10. If the clearance obtained through measurement is greater than these specifications and the cylinder bores are within specification, replace the piston.

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

The connecting rod bearings are of the precision insert type. The connecting rod bearings are available in standard and various undersizes.

1. Inspect the connecting rod bearing bores using the following procedure: Tighten the bearing cap to specification. Measure the bearing bore for taper and out-of-round. No taper or out-of-round should exist.
2. Starting with the number one connecting rod, remove the connecting rod cap bolts.
3. Remove the connecting rod cap by partially reinserting the connecting rod cap bolts into the connecting rod cap and wiggle the connecting rod cap left and right.
4. Lay a piece of gaging plastic across the crankshaft number one connecting rod journal.
5. Carefully place the connecting rod cap onto the connecting rod.
6. Install the 2 connecting rod bearing cap bolts. Tighten: Tighten the connecting rod bearing cap bolts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft), then rotate 90 degrees using the J 36660-A .
7. After reaching the proper torque, remove the 2 crankshaft connecting rod bearing cap bolts.
8. Carefully remove the connecting rod cap from the connecting rod.
9. Measure the gaging plastic at its widest point. Standard Oil Clearance: 0.028-0.052 mm (0.0011-0.0020 in) Maximum Oil Clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in)
10. If using a standard bearing, replace it with one having the same number. There are 3 sizes of standard bearings.

Thread Repair

Damaged threads may be reconditioned by drilling out, rethreading and installing a suitable thread insert. General purpose thread repair kits are available commercially.

1. Determine the size, pitch and depth of the damaged thread. If necessary, adjust the stop collars on the cutting tool and tap to the required depth.
2. Drill out the damaged thread.
3. Clean the drilling chips out of the hole.
4. Tap the hole. Lubricate the tap with light engine oil (except aluminum).
5. Thread the insert onto the mandrel of the installer. Engage the tang of the insert onto the end of the mandrel.
6. Lubricate the insert with light engine oil (except when installing into aluminum) and install the insert.
7. If the tang of the insert does not break off when backing out the installer, break the tang off with a drift punch.

Tool Required

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

1. Install the upper main bearings into the cylinder block and lubricate with engine oil.
2. Install the lower main bearings into the lower crankcase and lubricate with engine oil.
3. Install the 2 upper thrust bearing washers into the cylinder block and lubricate with engine oil.
4. Carefully place the crankshaft on to the main bearings in the cylinder block.
5. Thoroughly clean and remove any oil residue from the cylinder block mating surfaces.
6. Apply a continuous bead of GM P/N 12346240 (Canadian P/N 10953493) or equivalent sealant to the cylinder block mating rails (A).
7. Carefully place the lower crankcase assembly on to the cylinder block.
8. Gently tap the lower crankcase into place with a suitable tool.
9. Install the 10 main bearing cap bolts. Finger tighten.
10. Progressively torque the main bearing cap bolts using 3 steps in the sequence shown. 1st Pass: Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to 22 N.m (16 lb ft). 2nd Pass: Tighten the main bearing cap bolts to 44 N.m (32 lb ft). 3rd Pass: After reaching the torque of 44 N.m (32 lb ft). Use a J 36660-A and tighten the main bearing cap bolts an additional 90 degrees. See «Special Tools»(ref-200079-S33867661992005102000000) .
11. Install the 10 lower crankcase bolts. Tighten: Tighten the 10 lower crankcase bolts to 18 N.m (13 lb ft).

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

1. Clean the threads in the cylinder block.
2. Install a new cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
3. Apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant GM P/N 12346240 (Canadian P/N 10953493) or an equivalent, to the cylinder head gasket at points a, b and c.
4. Carefully install the cylinder head on the cylinder block.
5. Install the cylinder head bolts and washers into the cylinder head.
6. Progressively torque the cylinder head bolts using two steps in the sequence shown. 1st Pass: Tighten the cylinder head bolts to 35 N.m (26 lb ft). 2nd Pass: Mark the front of the cylinder head bolt with paint then tighten the cylinder head bolts 180 degrees.
7. Check to ensure the paint mark is not at a 180 degrees angle to the front of the engine.

J 8614-01 Pinion Flange Holder. See Special Tools .

1. Lubricate the front seal and the sealing surface of the crankshaft pulley with Chassis Grease GM P/N 1051344 (Canadian P/N 993037) or equivalent.
2. Install the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft indexing keyway. Tap into place using a rubber or sand-filled mallet.
3. Install the crankshaft pulley retaining bolt using J 8614-01 to prevent crankshaft rotation when tightening the bolt. Tighten: Tighten the bolt to 118 N.m (87 lb ft).

J 36660-A Torque Angle Meter. See Special Tools .

1. Install the flywheel to the crankshaft. Align the flywheel-to-engine marks.
2. Apply GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) or the equivalent, to the flywheel retaining bolt threads (1).
3. For vehicles equipped with an Automatic Transmission, install the flywheel retaining bolts (1-8) to the crankshaft. Tighten: Tighten the 8 flywheel retaining bolts in the sequence shown for Automatic Transmission to 83 N.m (61 lb ft).
4. For vehicles equipped with a Manual Transmission, install the flywheel retaining bolts to the crankshaft and torque the bolts in 2 steps. 1st Step-Tighten: Tighten the eight flywheel retaining bolts in the sequence shown for Manual Transmission to 49 N.m (36 lb ft).
5. Perform the final torque on the manual transmission flywheel retaining bolts. 2nd Step-Tighten: After the proper torque of 49 N.m (36 lb ft) has been reached, use a J 36660-A and tighten the flywheel bolts an additional 90 degrees.

Cylinder Block

The cylinder block is an aluminum casting with four cast iron cylinder sleeves. The cylinder block has four in-line cylinders which are numbered 1 through 4 starting from the crankshaft pulley. The cylinder block contains coolant jackets through which coolant flows around the cylinders, to cool the cylinder block and maintain a constant operating temperature. The lower crankcase of the cylinder block is also an aluminum casting with cast iron inserts at the main bearing locations. The lower crankcase runs the entire perimeter of the cylinder block.

Crankshaft

The crankshaft is cast nodular iron with eight counterweights. Oil holes run through the center of the crankshaft to supply oil to the connecting rods, bearings, pistons and other components. The end thrust load is taken by the thrust washers installed at the center number three bearing journal.

Connecting Rod and Piston

The connecting rods are forged steel, heat treated and shot peened. The connecting rod incorporates the semi-floating type pin. The pistons are cast aluminum. The piston rings are of a low tension type to reduce friction. The top compression ring is stainless steel. The second compression ring is cast iron. The oil ring is a 3-piece spring construction.

Oil Pan

The oil pan is constructed of stamped steel and is mounted to the lower crankcase. The oil pan includes a baffle that helps prevent the oil from shifting away from the oil pump suction pipe during hard turns, acceleration or stopping.

Cylinder Head

The cylinder head is an aluminum casting with pressed-in valve guides and valve seat inserts. The fuel injection nozzles are located in the intake ports.

Valves

There are two intake and two exhaust valves per cylinder. The valve springs are conical-shaped. Positive valve stem seals are used on all valves.

Camshaft

Two camshafts are used, one for all intake valves, the other for all exhaust valves. The camshafts are cast iron. The intake camshaft also has the camshaft position sensor lobe cast onto it.

Camshaft Housings and Covers

The camshaft housings and covers are cast aluminum. The camshafts run directly in cylinder head housing covers without bearing inserts.

Camshaft Drive

An inverted tooth chain is used. A mechanical tensioner and two guides control chain motion.

Timing Chain Housing and Cover

The timing chain housing is die cast aluminum and retains the crankshaft front seal.

Intake and Exhaust Manifold

The intake manifold is made of aluminum. The exhaust manifold is cast iron.

Cleanliness and Care

An automobile engine is a combination of many machined, honed, polished, and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are measured in ten thousandths of an inch. When any internal engine parts are serviced, care and cleanliness are important. A liberal coating of engine oil should be applied to friction areas during assembly to protect and lubricate the surfaces during initial operation. Throughout this section, it should be understood that proper cleaning and protection of machined surfaces and friction areas are part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice even if not specifically stated.

When valve train components are removed for service, they should be retained in order. At the time of installation, they should be installed in the same locations and with the same mating surfaces as when removed.

Separating Parts

Separate, mark, or organize the following components

1. Piston and the piston pin
2. Piston to the specific cylinder bore
3. Piston rings to the piston
4. Connecting rod to the crankshaft journal
5. Connecting rod to the bearing cap A paint stick or etching/engraving type tool are recommended. Stamping the connecting rod or cap near the bearing bore may affect component geometry.
6. Crankshaft main and connecting rod bearings
7. Camshaft and valve lifters
8. Valve lifters, lifter guides, pushrods and rocker arm assemblies
9. Valve to the valve guide
10. Valve spring and shim to the cylinder head location
11. Engine block main bearing cap location and direction
12. Oil pump drive and driven gears

Gasket Reuse and Applying Sealants

1. Do not reuse any gasket unless specified.
2. Gaskets that can be reused will be identified in the service procedure.
3. Do not apply sealant to any gasket or sealing surface unless called out in the service information.

Separating Components

1. Use the proper prying points to separate components.
2. Use caution when separating all RTV sealed components.

Cleaning Gasket Surfaces

1. Remove all gasket and sealing material from the part using the J 28410 Gasket Remover.
2. Care must be used to avoid gouging or scraping the sealing surfaces.
3. Do not use any other method or technique to remove sealant or gasket material from a part.
4. Do not use abrasive pads, sand paper, or power tools to clean the gasket surfaces. These methods of cleaning can cause damage to the component sealing surfaces. Abrasive pads also produce a fine grit that the oil filter cannot remove from the oil. This grit is abrasive and has been known to cause internal engine damage.

Pipe Joint Compound

1. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container.
2. Apply the pipe joint compound to a clean surface. Use a bead size or quantity as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause component damage when the bolt is tightened.
3. Apply a continuous bead of pipe joint compound to one sealing surface. Sealing surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.
4. Tighten the bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.

RTV Sealer

1. Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant hardens when exposed to air. This type sealer is used where two non-rigid parts (such as the intake manifold and the engine block) are assembled together.
2. Do not use Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant in areas where extreme temperatures are expected. These areas include: exhaust manifold, head gasket, or other surfaces where a gasket eliminator is specified.
3. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container.
4. Apply RTV to a clean surface. Use a bead size as specified in the procedure. Run the bead to the inside of any bolt holes. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when the bolt is tightened.
5. Assemble components while RTV is still wet (within 3 minutes). Do not wait for RTV to skin over.
6. Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.

Anaerobic Sealer

1. Anaerobic gasket eliminator hardens in the absence of air. This type sealer is used where two rigid parts (such as castings) are assembled together. When two rigid parts are disassembled and no sealer or gasket is readily noticeable, the parts were probably assembled using a gasket eliminator.
2. To remove the sealant or the gasket material, follow all safety recommendations and directions that are on the container.
3. Apply a continuous bead of gasket eliminator to one flange. Surfaces to be resealed must be clean and dry.
4. Spread the sealer evenly with your finger to get a uniform coating on the sealing surface.
5. Do not allow the sealer to enter any blind threaded holes, as it may prevent the bolt from clamping properly or cause damage when tightened.
6. Tighten bolts to specifications. Do not overtighten.
7. After properly tightening the fasteners, remove the excess sealer from the outside of the joint.

Tools and Equipment

Special tools are listed and illustrated throughout this section with a complete listing at the end of the section. These tools (or their equivalents) are specially designed to quickly and safely accomplish the operations for which they are intended. The use of these special tools will also minimize possible damage to engine components. Some precision measuring tools are required for inspection of certain critical components. Torque wrenches and a torque angle meter are necessary for the proper tightening of various fasteners.

To properly service the engine assembly, the following items should be readily available

1. Approved eye protection and safety gloves
2. A clean, well-lit, work area
3. A suitable parts cleaning tank
4. A compressed air supply
5. Trays or storage containers to keep parts and fasteners organized
6. An adequate set of hand tools
7. Approved engine repair stand
8. An approved engine lifting device that will adequately support the weight of the components