Starting System: Diagnosis Kia Carnival III

Troubleshooting Starter Circuit

Note. The battery must be in good condition and fully charged.

1. Disconnect the fuel pump connector.
2. With the shift lever in N or P (A/T) or clutch pedal pressed (M/T), turn the ignition switch to "START" If the starter normally cranks the engine, starting system is OK. If the starter will not crank the engine at all, go to next step. If it won't disengage from the ring gear when you release key, check for the following until you find the cause. Solenoid plunger and switch malfunction. Dirty pinion gear or damaged overrunning clutch.
3. Check the battery condition. Check electrical connections at the battery, battery negative cable connected to the body, engine ground cables, and the starter for looseness and corrosion. Then try starting the engine again. If the starter cranks the engine normally, repairing the loose connection repaired the problem. The starting system is now OK. If the starter still does not crank the engine, go to next step.
4. Disconnect the connector from the S-terminal of solenoid. Connect a jumper wire from the B-terminal of solenoid to the S-terminal of solenoid. If the starter cranks the engine, go to next step. If the starter still does not crank the engine, remove the starter, and repair or replace as necessary.
5. Check the following items in the order listed until you find the open circuit.

1. Check the wire and connectors between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the ignition switch, and between the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box and the starter.
2. Check the ignition switch. Refer to «TROUBLESHOOTING»(ref-674596-S22687830332014120300000) and «IGNITION SWITCH»(ref-674603-S27483781992014120300000) .
3. Check the transaxle range switch connector or ignition lock switch connector.
4. Inspect the starter relay.

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1. Disconnect the field coil wire from the M-terminal of solenoid switch.
2. Connect the battery as shown in the illustration. If the starter pinion pops out (engages), it is working properly. To avoid damaging the starter, do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
3. Disconnect the battery from the M terminal. If the pinion does not retract, the hold-in coil is working properly. To avoid damaging the starter, do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.
4. Disconnect the battery also from the body. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working properly. To avoid damaging the starter, do not leave the battery connected for more than 10 seconds.

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1. Place the starter motor in a vise equipped with soft jaws and connect a fully-charged 12-volt battery to starter motor as follows.
2. Connect a test ammeter (100-ampere scale) and carbon pile rheostats as shown in the illustration.
3. Connect a voltmeter (15-volt scale) across starter motor.
4. Rotate carbon pile to the off position.
5. Connect the battery cable from battery's negative post to the starter motor body.
6. Adjust until battery voltage shown on the voltmeter reads 11.5 volts.
7. Confirm that the maximum amperage is within the specifications and that the starter motor turns smoothly and freely. Current : 90A MAX Speed : 2, 600 RPM MIN

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the starter cover (A). Tightening torque: Bolts: 8.8 ~ 13.7 N.m (0.9 ~ 1.4 kgf.m, 6.5 ~ 10.1 lb-ft) Nut: 3.9 ~ 5.9 N.m (0.4 ~ 0.6 kgf.m, 2.9 ~ 4.3 lb-ft)
3. Disconnect the starter connector (A) and the cable (B) from the "B" terminal.
4. Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter (C). Tightening torque: 42.2 ~ 53.9 N.m (4.3 ~ 5.5 kgf.m, 31.1 ~ 39.8 lb-ft)
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.
6. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.

Tightening torque

4.0 ~ 6.0 N.m (0.4 ~ 0.6 kgf.m, 3.0 ~ 4.4 lb-ft)

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1. Disconnect the M-terminal (A) on the starter solenoid assembly (B).
2. After loosening the 3 screws (A), detach the starter solenoid assembly (B).
3. Loosen the through bolts (A).
4. Remove the armature (A), the yoke (B), the brush holder assembly (C), and the rear housing (D).
5. Remove the lever packing (A) and the lever plate (B).
6. Remove the shield (A) and the packing (B).
7. Disconnect the planet gear (A).
8. Disconnect the planet shaft assembly (A) and the lever (B).
9. Press the stopper (A) using a socket (B).
10. After removing the stop ring (A) using stop ring pliers (B).
11. Disconnect the stopper (A), overrunning clutch (B), internal gear (C) and planet shaft (D). NOTE: Using a suitable pulling tool (A), pull the overrunning clutch stopper (C) over the stop ring (B).
12. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

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1. Remove the starter.
2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. Refer to «DISASSEMBLY»(ref-674602-S21795589782014120300000) .
3. Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear or damage, replace the armature.
4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface with emery cloth or a lathe within the following specifications, or recondition with #500 or #600 sandpaper (B).
5. Measure the commutator (A) runout. If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass chips between the segments. If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature. Commutator runout Standard (New): 0.05 mm (0.0019 in.) max Service limit: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)
6. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C) between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or shaped (D). Commutator mica depth Standard (New): 0.8 mm (0.0315 in.) Limit: 0.2 mm (0.0079 in.)
7. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If an open circuit exists between any segments, replace the armature.
8. Check with an ohmmeter that no continuity exists between the commutator (A) and armature coil core (B), and between the commutator and armature shaft (C). If continuity exists, replace the armature.

Inspect Starter Brush

Brushes that are worm out, or oil-soaked, should be replaced.

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1. Check that there is no continuity between the (+) brush holder (A) and (-) plate (B). If there is continuity, replace the brush holder assembly.
2. Pry back each brush spring (A) with a screwdriver, then position the brush (B) about halfway out of its holder, and release the spring to hold it there.
3. Install the armature in the housing, and install the brush holder. Next, pry back each brush spring again, and push the brush down until it seats against the commutator, then release the spring against the end of the brush. NOTE: To seat new brushes, slip a strip of #500 or #600 sandpaper, with the grit side up, between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.

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1. Slide the overrunning clutch along the shaft. Replace it if does not slide smoothly.
2. Rotate the overrunning clutch both ways. Does it lock in one direction and rotate smoothly in reverse? If it does not lock in either direction or it locks in both directions, replace it.
3. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly. (the gear is not available separately). Check the condition of the flywheel or torque converter ring gear if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.